*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 74196 ***
THE
UNIVERSAL DIRECTORY
FOR
TAKING ALIVE AND DESTROYING
RATS,
AND ALL OTHER KINDS OF
FOUR-FOOTED AND WINGED
VERMIN,
IN A METHOD HITHERTO UNATTEMPTED:
Calculated for the Use of the GENTLEMAN, the FARMER, and the WARRENER;
By ROBERT SMITH,
Late RAT-CATCHER to the Princess AMELIA.
ILLUSTRATED WITH CUTS.
The THIRD EDITION.
LONDON:
Printed for J. WALKER, No. 44, Pater-noster-row.
M.DCC. LXXXVI.
=[Entered in Stationers Hall.]=
The Public are requested to observe, the two preceding Editions of
this Book were sold at the extravagant Price of £1 1_s._ in
consequence of which, Copies have been of late particularly scarce
and valuable, the Publisher has reprinted the Work at the low Price
of Three Shillings only, with all the Embellishments of Plates,
_&c._
CONTENTS.
The Fox Page 1
—— Otter 23
—— Badger 29
—— Sheep-killing Dog 33
—— House Cat turned wild 39
—— Marten Cat 47
—— Pole Cat 51
—— Stoat 55
—— Weasel 59
—— Ferret 63
—— Hedgehog 73
—— Norway Rat 75
—— Black Rat 107
—— Water Rat 111
—— Squirrel 115
—— Mole 117
—— House-Mouse 123
—— Field Mouse 125
—— Red Shrew-Mouse 127
—— Black Shrew-Mouse 131
—— Grass Mouse 133
—— Dormouse 135
—— Bat 137
—— Large black Eagle 139
—— Grey bob-tailed Buzzard 143
—— Large forked Tail Kite 145
—— Large blue Sherard Kite 147
—— Blue Sherard Hawk 151
—— Large Ring-tailed Hawk 153
—— Small Ring-tailed Hawk 155
—— —— Sparrow-Hawk 157
—— —— Black-headed Hawk 159
—— Wind-hover Hawk 161
—— Brown Wood-Owl 163
—— Screech Owl 167
—— Horned Owl 169
—— Fern Owl 171
—— Raven 173
—— Carrion Crow 177
—— Magpye 181
INTRODUCTION.
However trifling and contemptible the following Treatise may appear to
some persons, the author flatters himself that it will be productive of
great public utility, although the subject is but low and humble.
Many ingenious writers have greatly distinguished themselves in treating
of that noble and useful animal the horse; of the method of breeding
horned cattle, sheep, and other animals, serviceable and beneficial to
mankind; this little work, on the contrary, takes cognizance of those
animals, noxious to the community, describes their wonderful wilyness
and sagacity, and the uncommon and surprizing methods they take for
self-preservation and getting their prey; the research, may, perhaps,
give the reader great satisfaction, for the infinite wisdom of the great
Creator is as conspicuous in a mole as in a camel, in an ant as in a
lion.
And as most noblemen, gentlemen, and others, who have country seats are
generally, if not constantly, troubled with various kinds of vermin,
greatly detrimental and destructive to their property in the following
instances, viz. in many places where gentlemen have hare-warrens and
pheasantries, they are troubled with foxes, their waters with otters,
those great destroyers of fish; their poultry are killed by polecats,
stoats, and weasels; in other places they are pestered with wild cats,
who originally strayed from the farm and other lone houses, and running
into the woods, breed in great numbers and do incredible mischief, in
destroying the game, poultry, rabbits, and young leverets; in many other
places they are troubled with sheep-killing dogs, who in the night-time
worry and kill great numbers of sheep, so useful and necessary to the
commonwealth, and the staple commodity of the kingdom. But of all the
noxious animals none do more mischief than rats; both the old English
black rat and the Norway rat, especially the latter, which is the most
mischievous animal in the creation. In all the above cases, rules, not
drawn from theory, but from twenty years strict observation and
practice, are laid down in the plainest manner, to find out their haunts
and hiding places; with the easiest methods how to take and destroy
them, to the great joy and emolument of the persons who have been
injured and pestered with them. Rules for taking and destroying moles
and mice are likewise given, and the nature of ferrets is also
described, with instructions when it is proper to make use of them, and
when not.
And as the noxious part of the creation is not confined to the earth
only, many of the winged inhabitants of the air are equally pernicious
to the gentleman and the farmer, their natures are described, with
proper and suitable directions how to take and destroy them, from the
buzzard and the kite, to the smallest bird of prey, without which the
author would have estimated his work as incomplete.
On the whole, if the following little Treatise should any ways answer
the intent for which it was written, the author will obtain the end he
aimed at, and gratify the utmost extent of his ambition and wishes,
namely, the good and advantage of his fellow-subjects, and the general
good of the community.
THE
FOX.
I shall first begin with old Reynard the Fox, for he is the king of the
vermin in this island; wolves indeed formerly abounded here, an animal
infinitely more fierce and dangerous than the former, but these for many
ages have been entirely extirpated.
The Fox is a very subtle, sly, and daring animal, and in hard and severe
winters will come to places where hares and pheasants are kept, and
destroy a great many of them; he is likewise a mortal enemy to lambs and
all kinds of poultry, but scarce in any other instances he is more
mischievous than in destroying rabbits in warrens, which he frequently
does in prodigious numbers, but more especially in stopping time, as I
have known the young rabbits of near twenty stops taken away by the
Foxes in one night’s time. It may be necessary here to explain what is
meant by the above term; when the female rabbit is ready to kindle, she
digs an hole, or angle, about four feet long, and about ten or twelve
inches under ground, and when she goes out for food, she scratches the
earth over the mouth of the hole, or stop, so that it is scarcely
perceptible to the eye, in order for the preservation of her young ones
from any approaching enemy; in the night, the Fox being in search of his
prey, comes to the place where these stops are made and scents the young
rabbits, but instead of entering therein, he follows the scent above
ground till he comes to the end of the angle, and then scratching up the
earth comes immediately upon the young, which he devours; and this is
called _crowning_ on them.
It is very difficult to guard against the approaches of this enemy, his
motions being so uncertain, unless a trap was constantly placed, for
sometimes he will destroy several lambs and poultry in the night at
farm-houses, and not come near the same place again for a considerable
time, shifting his quarters to other places considerably remote in
search of fresh plunder; but in large parks where hares and pheasants
are constantly kept in great numbers, there is a greater probability of
taking him in the following manner:
The method to know where and which way he comes, is to make what is
termed a shrape, which is done by drawing a circle[1] on the ground, in
the park or warren, about three feet diameter, take the mould out all
over, four inches deep, then take a sieve and sift a sufficient quantity
of fine mould to fill it up again even to the surface, dig six of these
in various parts of the park, and fill them up in the same manner. The
reason of having the mould sifted so fine is, that when you set a trap
there will be no stones to intervene between the spring and the jaw of
the trap, which will sometimes happen without proper observance, and
prevent the trap from striking close.
Footnote 1:
See letter A. plate 1. fig. 1.
The next step to be taken is to procure a sheep’s paunch; tie a string
to it, and draw it to each shrape, before described, but remember at the
distance of two or three hundred yards to rub the bottom of your shoes
on the paunch, which will prevent him from discovering the smell of your
feet, and at every shrape lay some pieces of strong old Cheshire cheese,
and come again in the morning, when you will plainly perceive whether
his behaviour is shy or not; for he will sometimes eat all the cheese he
can reach, without entering on the shrape; the next night he will
venture somewhat further, and set his feet so lightly on the mould that
you can scarcely discern their print: I have sometimes fed a shy Fox for
a whole week before I have set a trap for him, but when he comes to feed
boldly he will trample all over the shrape and make prints an inch deep,
and in that shrape, where he seems to feed the freest, I would advise to
place two traps, and, without any particular accident, if he comes, you
will be sure of catching him.
Set your traps after the following manner: take some mould out, just
sufficient for the traps to lie in; and when properly placed, get some
moss, and with a small stick, put some of it under the bridge, and
likewise between the bridge and the jaw, and lay it quite smooth; now
the reason of having the above stick is, that in case you should spring
the trap, it will not injure you in the least, but only catches the end
of the stick. The next particular you must observe is, to procure a thin
piece of board, a foot in length, two inches wide at one end, and cut
away at the other to hold them by; then with this board strike some
mould or earth over the trap, entirely level with the other parts of the
shrape; this board is absolutely necessary in order to prevent your
handling the mould, for if he is in the least shy, he will not approach
the shrape if you once handle it; another caution is likewise necessary,
which is, not to let the bridges of your traps be too wide, for a Fox
had better come and put his foot in between the bridge and the jaw of
the trap, and not spring it at all, for in that case he will come again,
as he has not been baulked, but when the bridge is too wide, if he
happens to set his foot on the jaw, then his toe nails reach the bridge,
and spring the trap without catching him, which will render him shy, and
it will be a very difficult matter afterwards to get him at all.
[Illustration: _Plate I._ _page 7._ _Fig. 2._ The STEEL TRAP set in a
CUBE for a FOX. _Fig. 1._ Two STEEL TRAPS fixt in a shrape for a FOX.
_Jn. Lodge sc._]
But in order to prevent any such disappointment, I would advise that
your steel traps for the Fox should be square in the jaw, and not round
as the common traps are usually made, and strike but five inches high,
and seven inches long in the jaw, with saw-teeth[2], and let the tail[3]
of the trap be two feet from the tail end[4] of the spring, for they are
generally made too short, from whence this inconvenience arises, that
when a trap stands for some time, in warrens or parks, the spring gives
out, the purchase being so quick, whereas, were the traps formed on the
principle above laid down, the spring would remain for a considerable
time without giving way; and lastly, let the [5]bridge of the trap be
four inches square.
Footnote 2:
See the letters CC in plate 1. fig. 1.
Footnote 3:
See D in the same plate.
Footnote 4:
See E in the same plate.
Footnote 5:
See B in the same plate.
But as to a shy Fox, as just above observed, I have known them come
again, when compelled by hunger and necessity, and sometimes even with
three legs, and take the young rabbits out of the stops or holes, as
before described.
And here I beg leave to correct a vulgar error mentioned by some
authors, which is, that the Fox, when caught by the leg in a trap, in
order to facilitate his escape, will gnaw off the same above the jaws of
the trap, but this assertion is entirely false and erroneous, as it
would put the animal to inconceivable pain and agony to bite its own
flesh, while any sensation remained, and renders the supposition
likewise unnatural; but the real state of the case is this, which I have
proved from long experience, for as a dog, when he has got into a trap,
will yelp and cry out till he is tired, which soon happens, and then lie
quiet, on the contrary, this artful cunning creature, we are now
describing, as soon as taken, makes no noise at all, but is
indefatigable in his endeavours to get out, and will neither stand nor
lie still till either somebody comes to let him out, or he gets out by
the following manner; he immediately begins to tumble and toss about,
and after some time striving, he breaks his leg, just at the place where
the iron jaws of the trap are fastened; the lower part of the leg, under
the trap, is soon benumbed and deprived of all sensation, which the Fox
then gnaws off, and drawing the sinews through the teeth of the trap,
makes his escape, leaving that part of his leg which he had bit off
behind him; and, as a further confirmation, I once catched a dog and
bitch Fox, early in the winter, who both escaped, by the above means,
with three legs each, and the ensuing spring came to the same warren and
took out several stops on their three legs, which I discovered, and
poisoned them by means of some balls properly prepared, the method of
which I shall soon come to describe.
It may not here be unnecessary to lay down some rules to distinguish the
dog Fox from the bitch, which may easily be done, without seeing them,
by adhering to the following observations; a dog Fox has a larger foot
than a bitch, and it much resembles that of a small lurcher dog, and has
been often mistaken for one, by those who do not examine things
minutely: but there is an essential difference; for the Fox has hardly
any ball to the heel of his foot, but the dog has a large one; and a
bitch Fox has likewise a small foot with the ball thereof still
considerably less than the male. The utility of this remark will soon
appear.
I now proceed to lay down another method of taking and destroying these
pernicious vermin, either in park, warren, or field, but more especially
those who have been made shy, or have lost a leg in a trap, as before
hinted, which is as follows: whatever place it may happen to be in, you
must take notice of all the little by-paths all round the ground, and
sift some mould in each of them, and place by the side of each path,
where the mould is sifted, a piece of white rag stuck upon a stick; for
if there be any rabbits or hares near the path, they, by running up and
down, will create such confusion in the mould, that it will be next to
an impossibility to distinguish the impression of the Fox’s foot; the
intent, therefore, of these white rags is, to fright the rabbits and
hares away, but the Fox will boldly proceed along regardless of them: as
soon therefore as you have discovered which path he came along, you must
not trail for him as before, for that having seduced him into danger,
and led him to the trap, he will remember it well, and it is a very
great chance whether he will follow the trail at all. But take two good
figs of nux vomica; let them be quite white and sound, (for those that
are of a brown colour are neither so strong nor efficacious) then rasp
them very fine, take a piece of good dripping as big as a tennis ball,
mix with these a little flower to bring it to a proper consistency or
stiffness, and then roll it in honey; for there is nothing fonder of
honey than a Fox, and I have seen one scratch up the earth for a bee’s
nest under the ground, for the sake of the honey, and after he had
accomplished this design, having the wind of him I shot him dead on the
spot. But to return.
When you have found out the path he comes in, place two or three of
these balls of the magnitude before mentioned, at nine or ten yards
distance, for fear he should miss one; place them on a small stick six
inches high, in order to prevent the mice from eating them. But a little
distinction is here necessary to be made, for if you are endeavouring
after a Fox, whom you imagine never to have been made shy or caught in a
trap, the method of trailing, as laid down in the first instance may be
followed, and then one ball will be sufficient to be put in the path,
which he will readily go up to and take, and in order still to be more
certain of his footsteps, take the foot of a Fox and print it in fine
mould or sand, but the former is better if it can be got, the latter
when dry, being apt to run; by observing this rule you will readily know
the print of his foot, wherever you see it.
When the plan has succeeded to your wishes, and the Fox has taken one of
the balls as he came in, it is ten to one but he dies before he gets out
again, as was the with the dog and bitch Fox before mentioned, and if
you print him in, and not print him out, then you may hunt for him with
your dog, being certain that he is still lurking somewhere in the
ground.
In some places where traps have not been set for them, they may be
catched as easy as a dog; I have taken them in a cube, where a trap for
a dog has been set, the cube is formed in the manner as represented in
[pl. 1, fig. 2. F.] by the cut therein annexed, and may be made in the
center where two paths cross, or in a warren, or park, or at any gate or
stile where he comes in: if you do not find that he comes in at any of
the above places over your shrapes, you must, as you go round the sides
of the path, gates and stiles, mind whether you see his billots, that
is, his dung, the term being to say after he has dunged that he has
billoted; if you should not rightly know it, take up what you imagine to
be the same, and break it, and you will find it to be full of large
black beetles; sometimes you may smell him, then look about very nicely,
and it is ten to one but he has billoted somewhere near the place.
Let your cube be made after this manner, draw a circle, [pl. 1. fig. 2.
F.] but in the front leave just room for the trap to go in when set,
then bank it up all round from one side of the jaw of the trap quite
round to the other; set your traps in the same manner as you see in the
plan of it, but be sure to moss them as before directed, for the moss
preserves the fine mould from running under the bridge, and at the same
time keeps it up hollow that it may strike freely and properly, but when
the mould runs in, it sets the trap so hard that it is impossible for it
to strike at all. If you are in a warren, put some rabbits guts in the
back part of the cube; if these cannot be procured, place some pieces of
strong rotten Cheshire cheese, which they are very greedy of; if at a
farm get some bits of dead fowl, if possible, and if in a field, it is
probable you may find some of the mangled carcases of lambs, which they
have killed and hid pieces of them in the ground, which they often do:
but remember, in all these particular cases to put the bait in the back
part of the cube as before hinted; and whenever you set a trap for a Fox
let it be placed early in the afternoon, in order that the soil you make
may go off before he comes, and when you have set them, cover them with
a bush cut on purpose, to keep any thing else from striking it, till you
come round at night and uncover it again.
In many country places there are people, who make it their business to
take Foxes out of their earths for gentlemen to hunt them at their
pleasure; these are properly called bag-foxes. I have known in some
stony countries that they set stone traps for them at their earths, so
that it is impossible for them to get out without being taken, but of
this method of catching them I cannot speak from my own experience,
having been only a spectator of the traps, and of consequence cannot be
so able to judge of it, as where I have been the principal actor myself.
I mention this to testify that I would not, even in the most minute
circumstances, impose on my readers.
I have practiced likewise the following method with good success, which
may be imitated with great facility; let the party employed go round and
carefully search for their earthing places, wherever they are, and make
the mouths of them quite fine with mould; then come again the next
morning, and observe whether the earth has been trampled on, and if you
see the prints of his feet tending outward and inward, you may then be
assured that he is safe within his hole or earth, on which take a good
strong hay-net, such as are used in some warrens, pitched all around at
a proper distance, put the sticks quite slight into the ground, that as
soon as he strikes the net, it may fall upon and entangle him, but if
you place it tight he will tumble over, and by that means escape.
Another caution is necessary, when you have set your net, you must put
some bells in three or four different places, that you may hear when he
strikes the net; then run in upon him, and keep him entangled, otherwise
he will get out again, and seizing him by the pole or back part of his
neck, muzzle him, and tie his fore legs together, that he may not
scratch his muzzle off again; I have known a Fox, earthed as above,
watched for two or three nights together, till he has been starved out,
before they could catch him.
Sometimes when a Fox is found in the earth, or is hunted in, the method
is to dig him out immediately, after the following manner; take a good
terrier, that is kept for that purpose, one that will lie at a Fox, then
you must listen and sound him as the warreners do their line ferrets;
dig a trench across the angle, and, when you have got to the angle,
perhaps he will fly back, as they frequently do, then sink another
trench near him, and when you have dug down to him, take care he does
not bite you, as he is a fierce animal, when drove to desperation, and
bites very hard; in the next place take your dog back, that you may get
him out, this is what we call drawing him, as follows; take an old hat,
or any thing of a similar nature, in your hand, and dodge it before him,
when he will catch hold of it immediately, then with the other hand
catch him by the back part of the poll, with all possible quickness, as
the motion must be, as it were, instantaneous; and this same method must
be observed when you have one in a trap, if you have a mind to take him
alive, and always remember to have a muzzle ready to put on him
directly, and put him into a sack, and then you may do what you please
with him afterwards; what I mean by a muzzle is this, take a bit of
strong tape, put it over his nose, bring both ends down under his jaw,
and tie them tight together; then bring it along under his throat, an
inch and half from the first knot, then tie them both together in one
knot again, then bring the two ends up behind his ears and tie them
tight, and this is what I call a muzzle, in the same manner as warreners
muzzle their dogs to drive to the nets.
Having proceeded thus far in my description, _&c._ of this remarkable
animal, I conclude what I have to say of him with the following recipe
to take a shy dog Fox, which I have known to succeed when all other
means have proved ineffectual, and like wise with another observation,
neither of which are generally known.
The trail for him is, when you have taken a bitch Fox, that goes a
clicketing, take and cut that vessel which contains her sperm, the same
as the sow-gelders deprive bitches of, when they spay them, mixing with
this some gum mastic, and put them as soon as possible, after being
taken from the animal, into an earthen pot, keeping it quite close, and
it will remain serviceable a whole year, and, when occasion offers, take
a large piece of rind of bacon, broil it well on a gridiron, and then
dip it in the pot, using it as a trail, in the same manner as the
sheep’s paunch before described.
The last remark I shall make is, that there is one season of the year
when a Fox will not run after a trail at all, at least very rarely, and
that is in the spring, when he gets plenty of young rabbits and
leverets; for then he is dainty; when this is the case, another method
must be taken: at this time of the year the bitch Fox goes what is
called _a-clicketting_, you must mind which way he comes, which may be
done by sifting some fine mould in all the little bye paths, and when
you have discovered the right one, place two steel traps, about twenty
yards distance from each other, for fear he should miss one, but lay no
bate for him, and if he comes, there is the greatest probability of his
being caught; I have often been forced to act in this manner, and have
succeeded.
THE
OTTER.
The Otter is an amphibious animal, which preys both by land and water,
for when he is disturbed in the water he preys by land: as a proof of
which, I once catched a dog Otter in a warren, where he came to prey on
the rabbits, after the old bitch Otter and all the young cubs had been
killed, down at the river, not far from the warren.
The Otter generally frequents rivers and brooks, in order to search for
his prey, and will often come to fish-ponds likewise, destroying the
fish, and yet not lie there; the method to discover his haunts is very
easy, for, in whatever place he preys, you will be certain to find
tails, or hinder parts of the fish, left undevoured, at the sides of the
ponds, _&c._ for it is observable that he eats the head and body of the
fish, as far as the vent, and very seldom any farther; look all round
the pond, and by his marks or footsteps, you will find where he enters
the pond, and likewise where he comes out to eat the fish by the side,
for no amphibious animal devours his prey in the water, or can remain a
single moment under it, longer than he can hold his breath. When you
have discovered the place, it will be adviseable to put a good strong
steel trap in the water, down in the mud; put the mud over the bridge of
the trap as much as you can, that he may not discover the trap. I have
catched several this way. If you should not happen to find where he
takes the water, you will see where he sits to eat his fish, and then
you must set a trap or two by the side of the water, in different
places, where you find the bits of fish; cut a hole in the ground to let
them in, just flush or even with the ground, then cover them over with
moss very nicely: but, in my opinion, there is no necessity to bait
them, for the Otter will seldom, I believe never, touch any thing but
what he kills himself. I may possibly be mistaken in this point, but
after many repeated trials never could get him to touch any bait I set
for him.
The Otter in rivers and brooks has a kennel, which, with proper notice,
as before given, you will find; the structure of it is very ingenious
and admirable, indeed not equal to that of the beaver, though in some
instances of a similar construction, for they always have two ways to go
in and out, one by land and the other by water, for such is the
cunningness and sagacity of these vermin towards their preservation,
that if disturbed by land, they can vent or escape by water, and if
attacked by water they can escape by land; now when you have found out
these kennels, and discern that they use and frequent it, look carefully
about and you will see some of his landing places, where he sits and
eats his prey, and before the spot where he lands, there put a trap down
in the water as already directed in the ponds, where I have caught them,
and likewise destroyed all the young ones in the kennel, but know no
bait in particular they are fond of, as before observed; though others
may be of a contrary opinion.
In many places where I have been, small hounds have been employed in
destroying these vermin, called Otter hounds; when one is unkennelled,
he immediately goes to the bottom of the water, where he remains as long
as his breath will hold out, which is a considerable time; he then goes
under the bank, or under some reeds or boughs, there he draws breath and
blubbers the water; the term when he is perceived by any of his pursuers
is to say, There he vents; and they strike at him with a spear made for
that purpose, and often kill him, but if the spear misses, he sets off
again and the dogs follow, and if good seldom miss of killing him.
The above animal is not footed like other vermin, for they have a web
between each claw, like many water fowls, which greatly accelerates
their motion in swimming, when pursued by the dogs; they have no heel,
but a round ball under the sole of the foot, the track of which is
called their mark, and their dung is called their sprents.
THE
BADGER.
He is a grey hard haired animal, a good deal of the pig kind; and is not
near so hurtful as many other animals of the vermin kind; for the chief
mischief he does, consists in scratching of earths, or holes, which
afterwards serve for earth for the foxes to harbour in, and in
scratching and grubbing up the ground, in searching after his food, such
as pignuts and roots, on which, and on beach-mast, acorns, crabs, and
other trash, he subsists, but does not prey on living things of any
kind, as has been asserted by some authors, who have falsly affirmed
that he destroys and lives on young lambs, pigs, and poultry; and in
consequence of the simplicity of his food, I have known, in some places,
people will eat them, being generally very fat, and their flesh
exceedingly sweet.
I have practised two methods of taking the Badger with great success,
the first of which is, when you have found out one of their earths, let
two persons go out in the night, while they are in search of their food,
and put a thin sack into the hole, and fasten it at the mouth, that the
Badger may not run away with it; then let one person remain near the
hole, while the other beats round the fields with a dog, in order to
drive him home; when he finds the dog after him, he runs to his hole as
fast as possible, and goes into the sack, which slips close like a
purse; the party who stayed near the hole, on hearing his approach, lays
hold of the mouth of the sack, and pulls out the Badger in it, and this
method is termed, Sacking the Badger. Another way is to place a steel
trap, in which you will catch him very easily, as he is nothing near so
shy as the fox; when you come to his earths or holes, make the mouths of
all the angles quite smooth, and come again the next morning, when you
will see whether any have been in or gone out, and if you track him in
and out, then put a trap in each earth, in the same manner as you did
for the fox, and you need not fear catching him, but remember to stake
down your trap, that he may not go away with it.
THE
SHEEP-KILLING DOG.
This animal is extremely pernicious and detrimental, wherever he exists,
for when once a Dog takes to killing sheep, he seldom or never leaves
the practice off, in which he is extremely shy, and it is a very
difficult matter to put a stop to his proceedings till you can discover
his owner, which is no easy task, for if once he perceives you are
tracing him home, he will go two or three miles another way.
If it happens that he should come in the night, and destroy any of your
lambs or sheep, the circumstance becomes very alarming, and the farmer
generally moves his sheep into another field or place, this certainly
will baulk him for some small time, till he finds them again, and then
the consequence is as bad as ever; I would therefore advise not to move
your flocks at all, for the following reason, that by this means you may
be the sooner able to destroy him. To this end, go early in the morning
into the field where the sheep are, which is always customary, every
morning, among the farmers, then you will find whether he has been
amongst and killed any of them: if you perceive this to be the case,
inspect carefully all round the field, whether you can track, or see the
print of his feet, at any gate, stile, or gap, if there be one, if you
look carefully it is ten to one but you trace his footsteps; this being
done, you may prepare for him against night in the following manner: get
two good steel traps, set one of them by the side of the gate, stile, or
gap, where you imagine he enters, within side of the field, in the same
manner as before directed for the fox in a cube trap, and cover the
same, but do not handle the mould; then take the liver of the sheep or
lamb he has devoured, cut them into slices, fry them in some good
dripping, and put them on the back part of the cube; then take a piece
of the flesh of the sheep or lamb, and rub it all about the gate or
stile, _&c._ in order that he may be allured by the scent; then set
another trap in the same manner at a different gate, for fear he should
not come in the same way: a farmer is sometimes at a loss for these
traps, but if he lives adjacent to any warren, he may easily borrow two
of the true sort; but for fear of an accident it would not be amiss for
the farmer to have them always by him. The above directions being put
into execution, get a sheep’s paunch and draw a trail all round the
field, as you do for the fox, and draw it up close to the mouth of each
cube or trap, and by these means I have frequently catched several of
them.
In some country places where they have none of the aforesaid traps,
people are at a loss how to proceed, the subsequent method will supply
their place in some measure, and be attended with success; when you have
discovered in the morning, that he has been among the sheep over night,
get some good dripping as big as a tennis ball, rasp two good figs of
nux vomica, and mix them together, stiffened with a little flour; make
several of these balls, and at evening trail a sheep’s paunch, tied to a
string, to each gate, stile, or gap, where you imagine he enters,
putting one of these balls at every place, fixt on the top of a small
piece of stick, about six inches high, with the other end in the ground,
which will prevent the mice from eating it; when you have trailed to one
place, there stick the ball, trailing on to the next in like manner,
till you have gone quite round the field; let this be done just at dark,
and go again in the morning, and observe how many balls are gone, the
remaining ones take up, and put them down again at night, and so proceed
till you find he has swallowed some of them, of which there is no fear
if he chance to come.
I have sometimes been greatly embarassed in catching him, though I have
fully discovered the place at which he came into the field to destroy
the sheep; for he was so extremely shy that he would not follow the
trail, nor touch any bait laid for him. I then took the following
method, _viz._ just at the gate where he came in, I procured two radded
hurdles and put them close at one end, top and bottom; and at the
extremity of the end so closed, I tied a live lamb, and at the other end
where the opening was I set two steel traps close by each other, and in
the room they did not fill up, I placed a large bush to supply the
vacancy. These traps were covered very nicely, in the same manner as for
the fox; the plan succeeded, and the arch thief was happily taken. If it
should be a Dog that comes, procure some of the urine of a proud bitch,
and rub it about the trail, or the bait, which will infallibly bring him
on, let him be ever so shy, and induce him to go boldly up to the trap
and be caught.
THE
HOUSE CAT,
TURNED WILD.
This domestic animal is so well known as to need no description here,
and is very useful in a family, but frequently they will run wild in
woods, parks, chaces, or forests, and do infinitely more mischief than
many vermin naturally wild, and become entirely the reverse of what they
were originally intended for.
They attack their prey with surprizing ferocity, equal to that of a
tiger, and are very hurtful in gentlemens grounds, such as wood-walks,
pheasantries, chicken-grounds, or places where poultry is kept; where
they destroy the young pheasants, chickens, ducks, rabbits, and
leverets. I have killed seven of these Cats in one week, in a
gentleman’s chicken ground, where they came and destroyed almost all his
Chinese and other pheasants, Bantam and Guinea fowls, and other curious
poultry, both domestic and of foreign extraction, also his tame rabbits;
on all which he set the greatest value. I have caught divers of them in
a warren, who have rambled several miles to come for their prey, for
there is a kind of these creatures, besides those that live in the
woods, which generally reside about farm-houses, and at night go out to
prowl, and are of no service to the owner. As a proof of this, a farmer
happening to come to the warren, who lived about three miles distant,
owned one of the cats killed that morning, which had left his house the
preceding evening. I have caught thirty wild Cats in a season, at the
same warren, and we had but two houses near us, upwards of a mile
distant each way, by which it appears how far these animals will ramble
in search of their prey.
I now proceed to the manner of taking them; when you find they come to
any of the fore-mentioned places, get a common box trap, or hutch trap,
[pl. II. fig. 1.] such as are used in warrens; let it be nine inches
wide, full ten inches high in the clear, and three feet long. Let the
standards A. A. be placed in the centre, on the top of the trap, ten
inches from the end B. B. which must slide up and down in a groove; let
the standards be twelve inches high, with a notch cut in each, two
inches deep, and three quarters of an inch wide, that the swords C. C.
may have free room to play by the side of each other. Let the bridge be
eight inches square, and then there will be a clear inch in length for
the bridge to play; then get a piece of wood, half an inch thick, and an
inch and half square, make a hole in the middle, and place it at the
bottom of the trap, up against the back, in the centre, afterwards put a
nail through without a head, fasten it down to the bottom of the trap,
the nail standing up half an inch, then there will be room for the
bridge to hang on: make a hole at one end of the bridge, in the centre,
place it on the nail; in the other end put a strong piece of wire, and
cut a trigger-hole in the front of the trap, towards the bottom, exactly
in the middle, three inches high, and half an inch wide, D. D. and be
careful to have the inside of the trigger or tiller hole lined on each
side the edges with narrow pieces of tin, which will prevent its being
gnawed, and the trap from being defaced, for all vermin, whether cats,
rats, _&c._ will constantly gnaw and scratch wherever they see light;
then let the wire E, at the side of the bridge go through the
trigger-hole D. D. a small matter turned up at the end, that it may
hitch to the tiller, which is the small piece of wood tied to the end of
the string, then fix a little bit of wood, F, half an inch above the
trigger-hole, on the outside of the trap, as a stop for the trigger. But
some people are apt to put the tiller in the hole, where it often hangs
and prevents the trap from striking, whereas, if placed as directed, it
cannot hang in the least, but must strike and take the enemy; whom, in
order to secure, when taken, let a piece of wood, about half an inch
high, be nailed to the bottom of the trap, on the inside, close to where
the door falls, at each end; this will hinder any light from coming in,
and prevent the vermin from scratching the door up again, as I have
known it sometimes done.
The next step in the formation of the trap is, to take out a bit of the
wood from the centre of the top board G, six inches wide, cut slanting
on one side, and directly or straight down on the other, with a small
tenant saw, which will waste but little of the board, and may readily be
taken in and out, over the bridge, and is convenient to put the bait in.
Fix a small piece of wood under the lid, the whole length, excepting the
thickness of the sides, to keep it from sliding in or out, and on the
even side of the lid, put two small wooden hasps, H. H. which will keep
it fast on that side, and that side cut under or aslant holds fast
likewise; then in the back part of the trap, in the centre, above the
bridge, drive a nail through, and turn it up with a hook, to hang the
bait on. I have now described the trap to catch this dangerous enemy,
with the greatest minuteness, but for the reader’s better understanding
the nature and meaning of the same, I have annexed a beautiful
copper-plate, containing an exact view or representation of it, with
references answering to the foregoing explanation.
This being done, take some valerian-powder, and scatter it in and about
the trap, for they are fond of valerian-root to a degree of
extravagancy, rolling themselves about when they come near it, purring,
and seeming to be as it were in an extacy; if you have no valerian at
hand, put some pieces of marem or cat-thyme into the trap, which they
are likewise fond of. Now for your bait, take some fishes heads or
bones, or a red herring, rubbing the end of the trap with the same, and
hang it on the nail, in the back part, over the bridge: this they will
eagerly catch at, it being an observation, that Cats love fish, but do
not love to wet their feet; yet I have known an instance to the
contrary, having observed one of these Cats take the water like a
spaniel, after the water rats; but this is very rare and uncommon.
The bait being placed, take several red herrings, tie them together in a
string, and draw a trail all round where you think they come, and
likewise to the traps; and if they approach you need not fear of
catching them. If you find your trap down in the morning, one caution is
necessary, which is, not to lift up the door of the trap, to discover
what kind of animal you have taken, it being possible that some other
vermin may have got in, for if it should prove to be a wild cat, the
moment she sees light she will strike at your face with her claws, and
endanger your eye-sight, and probably make her escape, having once been
served so myself; I would therefore recommend to take a thin sack, draw
the end thereof to the end of the trap, so far that it be in the sack’s
mouth, which you must draw up tight, then rattle the other end, and the
Cat will bolt out into the sack, and holding the mouth tight, gather it
together and you may do what you please with it.
THE
MARTEN CAT.
This is a very curious and beautiful animal not commonly known, even by
many connoisseurs in natural history, and is the largest of the ferret
kind; he seldom or never comes near any dwelling-houses or farm yards,
but delights in solitariness, frequenting lone forests, chaces, woods,
and other desart places: however I knew one that used to run tame about
the kitchen of the Bald-Face-Stag, on Epping-Forest; they have no strong
disagreeable scent, like the polecat, weasel, and other stinking animals
of a similar nature, but are reckoned the sweetest of the vermin kind; I
caught several one winter, on the aforesaid forest, and sold their skins
for four shillings and sixpence each, for the sake of the fur, which is
exceedingly good.
Their lodging places are in old crows or magpies nests, and sometimes in
a woodpecker’s hole, and in hollow trees: I have traced them in the
snow, and when they take to a tree they will go from one to another with
incredible swiftness like a squirrel, till they settle themselves in
some or other of the places before mentioned, where you are likely to
find them. They are very fond of birds of all kind, particularly the
wood-pigeon, or ring-dove, and turtle-dove, which in the night-time they
take from their roosting places. Now when you have discovered by their
tracks, either in the earth or snow, where they go, place a common box
or hutch trap, such as they use in warrens, [pl. II. fig. 1.] bait it
with a bird, in the same manner as I before described for the wild cat,
pick off some of the bird’s feathers, and strew them through the inside
of the trap, from one end to the other, and hang the bird on a nail;
this is the way I have caught several of them; but in some places I have
known them hunted with hounds, when they are sure to lead the dogs
through the thickest covers they can find. They are not an animal that
abounds in great numbers, but rather scarce to be found; I make this
observation, because many persons are entirely ignorant of its
existence, for which reason I have been more particular and exact in my
account of this uncommon creature.
THE
POLECAT.
This animal is distinguished by various appellations in different parts
of the kingdom, being in most places called a Polecat, in some a Formet,
and in others a Fitchet, and by one or other of the above three names he
is known all over England.
He is a very subtle and pernicious creature, being a mortal enemy to
fowls of all kinds, and doing prodigious mischief in warrens, by
destroying the young rabbits, for when once they take to a borough,
consisting of a large number of holes or angles, they either kill or
drive the rabbits away, who, by instinct, shun so dangerous a foe; in
the hen-houses they are equally destructive, and when they have killed a
fowl, they drag it away, if they can get it through the hole they enter
in at, but they have one good property, that is, that if they can get
what they have killed away, whether fowl or rabbit, they will eat of it
as long as it remains sweet, before they return back to kill any more;
in this circumstance differing from the weasel and stoat, who, after
they have destroyed their prey, only suck the blood out, and very seldom
take it away, but leave the flesh behind untouched; if therefore you
miss any of your fowls, or find any of them in part devoured, it will be
an almost infallible criterion for you to distinguish that the mischief
has been done by these vermin.
In order the better to destroy them, I would recommend this method; at
night, after your fowls are gone to roost, mind to sift some sand before
every little hole you suspect he may come in at, and look at them again
in the morning early, before the fowls are moving, and you will soon
discern the prints of their feet by their trampling about, then set a
common hutch trap, such as are used in warrens, [pl. II. fig. 1.] and
bait it with a piece of fowl or small bird of any kind; hang the bait on
the nail, over the bridge, as has been observed before, and if you
should catch one of them, remember to make the print of his feet in the
sand, which will enable you the better to know it another time, which
has been my own constant practice, to discover what kind of vermin have
been there in any shrape, whether made by sprinkling mould or sand; and
if you should not have a hutch trap in your possession, then put at the
place where you have tracked him, a small steel trap, and place a brick
on each side, so that he cannot avoid coming over the trap, which must
be covered nicely with fine mould; do this in the afternoon, then cover
it with a thin board, that the fowls may not spring it in going to
roost, then take the board or shelter away, and go in the morning before
the fowls move, and if you should not catch him the first night, observe
the same methods for a few nights more, and you will be sure of him.
THE
STOAT.
This animal in some places is called a _Cain_, and is the worst small
vermin that exists, for if they approach to any warren, pheasantry or
chicken-garden, they do incredible mischief, for whatever they kill they
seldom eat, but only suck their blood, on which account they are more
destructive and pernicious by far, than all the vermin of the ferret
kind put together, as I have known one to kill a dozen fowls in a
chicken-garden in the space of one night, and then let them remain
behind, after having sucked out the blood at the side of the neck; but I
cannot help here taking notice of a remarkable circumstance, that is
almost peculiar to this subtle animal, which is, that they will start a
hare from his form, and follow it by the scent, as true as the hound,
till he comes up to it again; when they will slyly fasten on the side of
the neck, and there hang till the hare sinks down with loss of blood,
and then is left untouched by the Stoat, in regard to the flesh, and in
this manner I have shot many Stoats hanging on a hare’s back, for if you
should chance to be near where this happens, you will hear the hare cry,
which will direct you which way the affrighted animal is coming, be then
ready with your gun, and it will be next to a miracle if you miss
shooting him.
In the same manner I have shot these vermin in warrens, for in going by
some of the burrows, I have heard a rabbit cry under ground, which
occasioned me to remain a short time by the side of the burrow, when of
a sudden the rabbit has bolted out with the Stoat on its back, which I
have then immediately shot dead, and by this method have killed great
numbers of them.
Now in all chicken-gardens and pheasantries, two or more hutch or box
traps, should always remain set under the walls or pales, baited with
any small bird, rabbits or fowls guts, when the person who looks after
the fowls may likewise take a proper survey of the traps, by which means
they might be caught before they entered within side and did the
mischief, which otherwise must necessarily ensue. Let the traps be
placed on the outside, close under the walls or pales, with the back
part against the same, make a wing or low paling, about eighteen inches
high, with old pales, or form a small hedge, about the same height, from
each end of the trap, extending four or five yards aslant, and about two
or three yards open at the end from the wall, which will be a guide for
them to enter into the trap, for they love to run under such places, and
unless prevented in proper time, by the method here laid down, they will
enter and destroy great numbers of rabbits, pheasants, and poultry, in a
single night’s time; in most warrens, therefore, it is generally
customary, to have traps constantly set and baited, otherwise you would
soon not have any rabbits left therein. In hare-warrens, likewise, hutch
or box traps should be placed in divers parts of the warren, with the
two ends painted white, and rubbed over with the guts of any animal,
which will prevent the hares from entering in, but allure the vermin;
let them be always baited in the same manner as before observed; and if
you find they likewise come to your hen-houses, use the same method, and
they will naturally come into the trap and be catched, and in case you
should not have a hutch trap, set a small steel trap, as before directed
for the polecat, and you will be certain of securing him.
THE
WEASEL.
The Weasel is the smallest vermin of the ferret kind, and is a very
noxious little animal, in many particulars resembling the stoat, last
described, but is not capable, on account of its size, of doing half so
much mischief, though they will destroy young hares, rabbits, and
chickens, and, sucking out their blood, leave them behind; but in one
instance it is extremely pernicious in chicken-gardens, hen-houses,
_&c._ by sucking the eggs in great abundance; they begin by making a
small hole at one end, at which they lick the yolk out, and leave the
shell behind, whereas the rats, on the contrary, always drag the eggs
out of the nest and carry them away, making a large hole in the egg, and
sometimes break the shell in half, in order to get at the yolk, which
the Weasel will not; by the above observation you will distinguish what
animal has destroyed your eggs, and lay your trap accordingly. In some
cases Weasels are serviceable, for they will kill mice, water rats,
young house rats, but the old Norway rat they are afraid to attack,
shunning him if possible with the greatest assiduity: they will likewise
destroy moles, having sometimes catched them in mole traps.
When you have discovered that they have destroyed your chickens, or
sucked your eggs, get a hutch or box trap, and bait it with a small bird
or egg, for I have catched many by baiting with an egg, and if you
should be at a loss to know at which place he enters, make some shrapes,
either with sand or fine mould, as before described, and when you have
discovered which way he comes, place some small steel traps, and it will
be a thousand to one but what you catch him; and when you have taken any
of these vermin, make an impression of their feet in some fine sand, and
you will be able to distinguish them another time: and if this was
strictly observed, it would be possible for you to know if even a mouse
had entered your parlour or dining-room, by sifting some sand all over
the bottom of the room at night, the last thing you do; then lock the
door, and in the morning you will see which way they come in and out;
which remark will serve for all these kind of vermin in general. I
conclude my account of this creature in describing an odd method by
which I have killed them, _viz._ when I have observed one run into a
hedge, by standing at a proper distance from the place, and imitating
the squeaking of a mouse, I have enticed the Weasel to come out to the
side of the hedge, and then shot him dead, and by this method I have
destroyed several of them.
THE
FERRET.
Of these animals there are two kinds or species, the white Ferret and
the polecat Ferret, so called from its great resemblance to the polecat,
but they are certainly two distinct animals, though by many persons
imagined to be one and the same, and confounded together; and as a proof
of this distinction, I have had several excellent Ferrets killed by the
polecat, when turned into the rabbit burrows, wherein the polecat had
taken prior possession.
Ferrets are much used by the warreners in the following manner; when the
young rabbits become of a tolerable bigness or growth, they go to the
holes where they have been observed, with a dog-Ferret, and turn him in
with a long small line round his neck, and the other end of the line in
their hands; if he goes a considerable way in, and finds no game, they
draw him out again, and put him into another hole; and when they
perceive by the line that he has struck at one of them, the line is
gently drawn out, and he will bring the rabbit out in his mouth; the
Ferret’s throat is then pressed, or squeezed close, in order that he may
quit his prey, and then he is turned in again, this method the reader
may practise with success, and take all the young rabbits out of their
burrows, be their number never so great, but one caution is necessary to
be observed, which is, not to lay the rabbits, as you take them, in the
wind of the Ferret, this will baulk your sport, for if he scents or
winds them, he will not keep in the ground; in the course of my practice
I have tried a great number of holes, in some of which he has gone six
or seven fathom in almost straight or horizontal angles, generally about
three or four feet deep under the earth before he found his prey, but
these are too great lengths to draw them, and would be losing too much
time, but if you find the rabbits at about three fathom deep, it will
answer your purpose, though you may try different angles or holes, and
take your game at the nighest; the above method is what is termed
drawing them with a Line-Ferret.
In the winter season, when you are endeavouring to take the rabbits, and
you cannot get them to bolt or come out of their holes, the following
expedient may be put into execution, in order to take great numbers of
them together; make use of the Line-Ferret as before, turn him into one
of the holes or angles till he finds them, but let him not remain there
long enough to lay hold of the rabbits, then put him in at another, and
so in like manner into all, and in the nighest angle you find them,
there turn in the Ferret, and let him lie while you can sound him; what
is meant by sounding is, you must listen about where you think the line
goes, with your ear to the ground, and where you hear him dig a trench
cross the hole, just behind the place where you sounded down to the
line, then follow the line till you come to him, and in all probability
you will take a great number of rabbits, and this is the reason of
trying the Ferret in so many different angles before you let him lie,
for by this method they are driven together, for if you was to let him
lie at first, perchance you might have the trouble of digging for only a
single rabbit, for they do not keep in any great degree together till
driven so by the means aforesaid; but remember not to muzzle your
Line-Ferret.
Another method of catching them is, by what is termed starting or
bolting; to this end take the bitch or the Ferret and muzzle and use it
in this manner, where there are any rabbits in burrows or at hedges,
which you intend to destroy; when you first approach to the place,
remember to take the wind of it, and fix a small purse-net, made for the
purpose, called a Flan, in some countries, at each hole, do this as
still and silent as possible, then put in the Ferrets at the lee-side of
the burrow, in order that you may have the wind of the rabbits, and
stand at the lee-side yourself, not making the least noise, for though
many persons have a notion, that do what you will the rabbits will not
start, yet this is a mistake, for if they hear a noise above ground they
will fly down into their lower holes, till they can run no further, then
the Ferret gets behind them and scratches them till they bleed, in which
situation it is impossible for him to get before to drive them out into
the net, and this is the reason I enjoin a strict silence, for then he
catches them in their upper angles, on which they bolt out immediately,
for they never lie in the lower ones till they are disturbed above
ground; it is therefore a mistaken notion of a great many people, to
hunt and drive in all the rabbits they can find before they put the
Ferrets into the ground, but this method is entirely wrong, if you
intend to start or bolt them, for if they are once driven to ground, it
is ten to one if they move, but will lie and be scratched to death: but
if you hunt them with a Line-Ferret, you will then have nothing to do
but to sound your Ferret and dig them out as before directed.
I shall here beg leave to make a remark relative to a bad practice of
the warreners, who make too frequent use of Ferrets, which method I
entirely disapprove of; for, was I in possession of a warren, which I
occupied for my livelihood, I would never put a Ferret into the ground
at all, as it does a warren infinite prejudice and damage; it makes the
rabbits forsake their own home, and run away, and lie out till they are
killed, for they have a fixed antipathy against entering into the ground
where there is the least smell of the Ferret; they have the same dislike
to other vermin, and the Ferret is as bad as any of them; my own method
of catching rabbits is, by nets made into pound pitches, and then you
may sort them as you think proper, the best you may turn over the net
and the worst you may kill; on the contrary, the Ferret has no respect
to either, but will destroy the good as well as the bad.
The Ferret, as has been before observed, in many instances resembles the
polecat, and if one should get away from his hutch, and get into the
garden or field, if you should chance to get him again, he becomes so
wild that you can scarcely venture to touch him. I have catched them at
the hen-house, in a farm-yard, where they come to kill the fowls, for
being set by some people to drive out the rats, they sometimes lose one,
when he preys about as the polecat does; and will sometimes feed upon
young rats, but as to the old ones those he does not choose to face, for
I have had several good Ferrets as could be, all beat by an old rat,
which they will not touch, except they are very sharp set and hungry;
this experiment I have made by keeping one fasting for a day and a
night, and then he killed an old fierce rat and eat him presently. This
affords a useful lesson, for if you are going to make use of your
Ferrets for any business, keep them fasting for some time before, they
being of a very sluggish disposition, and when their bellies are full
they will not hunt after any thing, or work in the least: I have often
turned them into holes after rats, when, if they find a nest of young
ones, they will eat them, and if sufficient to satisfy their hunger,
they will hunt after no more prey, but fall asleep, for they only go in
search of it to serve themselves, and when their bellies are full, you
may hunt by yourself; this is the true nature of the Ferret.
In some places people employ them instead of cats, in destroying rats,
when they often prove of good service, especially in under floors of any
kind, and when they lie between the boards, but in ceilings and common
sewers they are not so serviceable; in the first they can do no good,
and in the latter they do not much care to wet their feet, except when
sharp set, and then they will seize the rat, which sometimes bolts from
the Ferret, and is driven into a narrow angle or corner, where being
kept at bay and made desperate, he maintains a fierce combat with the
Ferret, and makes him retire with his face and head terribly bitten and
bloody.
THE
HEDGEHOG.
This little animal greatly resembles the porcupine, though in miniature,
his body, being armed and fortified all over with small sharp-pointed
quills, which is an admirable defence for him against his enemies. It
has been asserted by some writers, and is a notion commonly received,
that it will suck the milk of cows in the night-time, while they are
asleep in the fields, and bite the dug in such manner that the cow never
recovers, but this opinion I believe to be false and erroneous, having
never been able, after many years strict enquiry and observance, to
discover a single instance of it; their chief food consists in acorns,
crabs and roots, in grubbing up of which latter they damage the ground;
you may catch them by setting a hutch trap under the wall or pale of any
park or warren, as these animals will run under them in the night a
considerable way, having taken several of them by this method in the
course of a week. I recommend it therefore as the most preferable, as
few dogs will venture to kill them, their quills being so extremely
sharp, and when they find they are pursued or attacked, they immediately
roll themselves up round as a globe or ball, and lie as if they were
dead; but put them into a puddle or pan of water, and they will expand
themselves immediately. I know of no particular bait they are fond of.
THE
NORWAY RAT.
This vermin was brought originally from Norway to England, in ships
trading for timber, _&c._ to that country, and being of foreign
extraction, they are commonly, though erroneously, called in many
places, the _Hanover_ Rat.
There are very few buildings, either in town or country, that are not
troubled and pestered with them. Now you must carefully observe what
part of the building they frequent; examine the sewers or shores, for
they will find their way up them where there is no grate, and if there
is one, they will gnaw through a soft brick, and scratch the dirt out by
the side of the shore into it, and there lie dry, which often stops up
and greatly detriments the shore. If there are any hog-sties, where hogs
are fattening in winter time, the Rats without doors about the
buildings, will repair to the sties; they are very apt to get under the
floors, greatly to the damage of the houses; they will likewise get
behind the wainscots, and in cielings, and make a noise that is very
disagreeable to the family: it is necessary, therefore, to mind where
they go in and out, for some way they must of necessity have, as they
cannot remain there long without meat and water. In order therefore for
the better discovery of the same, sift some sand about, and if any move,
you will easily see which way they go, for this is an infallible method
to betray all vermin; in the same manner, if the comparison may be
allowed, as Daniel, in the apocrypha, traced the footsteps of the men,
women and children, coming in at the private door, by means of sifting
some ashes. In the country sometimes they will lie out in the fields and
hedges, as long as any corn remains upon the ground, and breed in the
most prolific manner, for I have known them frequently bring forth
twelve young ones at one time; and I once caught an old female Rat, that
had given suck with sixteen teats; and as a still farther proof of their
fruitfulness, I have known them breed when only half grown; but in this
case they have had only three or four young ones at a time. But to
return, when the cold weather comes on, they flock in prodigious numbers
to the houses and other buildings; they likewise repair to the barns and
wheat-ricks, and sometimes I have known them take to the ricks,
notwithstanding they have been placed on stands, for they will jump up
on the top of the stones placed as a safeguard, with surprizing agility,
which it was imagined was impossible for them to do, and get into the
ricks, where they always make holes in the thatch. I have known them
take to hay-ricks and get to the top of the thatch, and bite through the
straw, in search of what little corn may be left in the same; so that
the stacks or ricks have been obliged to be thatched again.
Having given a general description of these animals, I now proceed to
point out the methods of catching them, in the various places they
haunt; whether in the cellars, shores, hog-sties, barns, stables,
slaughter-houses, brewhouses, still-houses, or any other place, be it
what it will. When you have discovered their haunt, you must put a trap,
hereafter to be described, as near the place as possible; put a small
piece of stick across under each end of the trap, near the standard, to
prevent it from falling down or striking, and it will remain in the same
position as set, and the Rats have free liberty to go in and out at
pleasure, in order to embolden them, before you set your traps in
earnest to take them; then scent it, by a method hereafter to be
explained, and it will not want scenting again for a twelvemonth; for it
is my constant rule to scent them only once a year, which will be
sufficient. Take some chaff of any kind, mix some wheat-corn with it,
and put some about the bottom of the trap, this prevents them from any
notion that it is a trap. If it be in a place where you cannot procure
chaff, throw a handful of oats, barley, or malt about the bottom; but
chaff, mixed with some kind of corn, as before observed, is preferable.
You will have occasion to do this only for the first time of setting the
traps to work; for when once some Rats have been catched in them, and
have pissed and dunged therein, they will be in better order for it; it
is a wrong practice, therefore, in many people, to wash the trap clean
before they set it again; on the contrary let the dung remain in it, for
this reason, that the Rat will enter with greater confidence where he
finds his brethren have been before him; but if it hinders the trap from
striking, or it is got under the bridge, then take it out.
Now if you perceive that they come to four or five different places, I
would advise, by all means, to put a trap at each place. Some people are
afraid of a little expence, and make shift with one trap only, in which
case you are obliged to move your traps about, which makes them shy, and
missing some of their companions renders them still shyer: mind
therefore to have a trap at each place, set them all to feed at the same
time, and put a little bundle of straw at each end, that they may go in
and out privately; and if you cannot get any straw, shelter each end of
the trap with some old boards, and keep them as private as possible, for
this they like, and it will answer your intent the better. When your
traps are all set, as near the places where they run as you can, you
must feed them after the following manner: put some of the feed (the
recipe to prepare which will be hereafter given) at their holes, scatter
a little quite up to the end of the trap, and so along to the bridge
within side, and there put a handful. When this is performed at each
trap, you must stay two or three nights before you go to them, and you
will see which trap they have eaten out of, perhaps from all of them, or
possibly from only one, as sometimes they are very shy; for I have known
them to eat the food prepared for them, from their holes quite up to the
trap, for a week before they would enter in; but when once they have
entered in, and find they are not hurt, they will then come freely
enough. In the next place, when you go round to take a survey of your
traps, take notice of those they have eaten out of, and put some more
food in, but after the first time of feeding them, you need only put an
handful on the bridge. Make it your rule to take this survey in the
morning, and when you perceive they come to feed boldly and freely, then
is the proper time to think of taking them; but for two or three nights
previous to your catching them, when you have given them food in the
morning, remember to look at the traps again at night; for if it be a
quiet place they will feed by day-light, and where this happens, set
those traps going in the day-time, and the rest in the evening; and as
they are caught take them out of the trap, by means of a little wire
cage; which is described at the end of the Rat trap struck in [pl. V.]
afterwards put them into the large cage, proceed in this manner till
bed-time, and then put up all your traps again, that they cannot strike,
by means of a small piece of a stick laid across, under the ends, as
before mentioned, and put some more food in them, for two or three
nights longer, till they are become bold; then set them all again; and
this may be transacted without breaking your rest in the least; but in
some places where they lie in the ceilings or behind the wainscots, they
are not in motion till the house is still, and the family gone to rest,
and where this happens you must sit up later, and when any person has
this book in his possession, by following the directions therein
carefully, he may easily get the better of these vermin.
When I have been catching these vermin at any nobleman or gentleman’s
house, after having been absent for some time, I have been obliged to
sit up all the night, in order to keep their numbers under: but when a
person is in the house or near the premises, there is no necessity of
his losing his rest, or attending in so close a manner, because he may
take his opportunity to catch them when he thinks proper; and on any
night he fixes for that purpose; if any business should intervene, that
he cannot conveniently put his design into execution, then let him give
them a little food again, and they will not be baulked. Be certain to
remember this piece of advice, for when the Rats come for their supper,
and you have neglected to leave them any, then they will be
disappointed, and obliged to go to other places in search of food:
therefore when you have some at feed, mind to keep them there at the
different places, to which they will come with the greatest regularity,
if not baulked; so continue, still feeding them, never neglecting a
single night, till you have a leisure evening, and that will encourage
them to be bold and come freely. Observe the night that you set your
traps going, to lay food that they cannot carry away, and put but a
little on the bridge, and on each side, that you may be sure of catching
what comes to feed; and if in going round to your traps two or three
times, you observe one of them that has not struck, strike it yourself;
for sometimes they will not go down easily, if they stand long, but set
hard, then the Rats will eat the food out, and not strike the trap. Now
as they are caught, go round and take them out with your small cage, and
put them into the large one: in this manner I have caught seventy-two in
one night’s time, though sometimes in that trap where they have fed the
best, I have not caught one Rat, according to expectation. If this
should happen to you be not in the least discouraged; for they will come
again, and disappointment may have been occasioned by their having met
with some other vermin in the way; for sometimes a weasel, stoat, or
polecat, will go in and baulk your traps, as they leave a most horrible
stench behind them, very disagreeable to the Rats; and in the course of
my practice I have caught great numbers of the animals just before
mentioned, but more particularly the polecat, all in the rat-traps; by
which it is evident how naturally these vermin will follow one another,
when prowling in the night after their prey; but these events, which now
and then happen, ought not, in the least, to slacken your diligence; for
by care and perseverance, and by following the above rules, you will
soon take and destroy these terrible and subtle domestic enemies.
The following cautions are necessary in removing them from the trap to
the cage: when you go round in order to survey your traps, and find one
down, take the small wire cage, and put it close to the right hand end,
which is the handiest method of taking them out, unless the trap stands
in such a position that you cannot command that end. When you have
placed the cage properly, pull that end of the trap up next your right
hand, just high enough for the Rat to come out into the cage, let the
candle stand down by the cage, which you must hold fast with your hand,
that they may not drive it away; for sometimes when they see light, they
will spring or bolt out with such velocity, that except you hold the
cage tight, and close to the trap, they will drive it away, and so
escape. At other times they are sulky, and will not come out if they can
help it; in this case you must make a noise, and rattle against the
other end of the trap; and they will soon bolt out into the cage.
Another piece of advice is here necessary, for when one Rat has come out
you may possibly think there are no more in the trap, and take the cage
away, but be certain of this first, for I have had seven at one time in
the same trap. By observing this rule you will be enabled to guard
against any of them getting away, after you have been at the trouble of
taking them.
[Illustration: _Page 87_ _Plate III._ The SEPERATE PARTS of the RAT TRAP
described. _J. Lodge sc._]
I shall now give the reader a very minute and exact description of the
make and construction of the trap, made use of in the foregoing
instances, which, with the print annexed, will give him a full, perfect,
and adequate idea of the same; it is made in the following manner: Take
three boards [pl. III.] two feet two inches long, let the two sides
stand on the bottom, nine inches high, by nine inches wide in the clear;
then take a thick bit of wood three inches wide, and put it in the top
of the trap in the centre, for the upright centre E. [pl. IV.] to go in;
in the front of the trap, at the bottom, cut a hole for the trigger,
half an inch wide, and three inches high, BB; line the inside of the
hole with some pieces of tin about an inch wide, that they may not
deface the inside of the trap, for a Rat will always gnaw and scratch
wherever he sees any light; then take two pieces of board to go in even
or level at each end, and under these take two short pieces, six inches
high, to go in easy, nailing the top down to these at each end, and then
hanging the top-pieces F F. within an inch of the end nearest the
centre, they will go up and down together. In the centre, at the bottom
of the trap, against the back, take a piece of wood, two inches long,
and half an inch thick, make a hole in the centre of it, then put a nail
through without a head, fasten it down to the bottom of the trap, and
let the nail stand up half an inch; in order to hang the bridge on: then
take a piece of half inch board five inches wide, and seven inches and a
half long, make a hole at one end, in the centre, and at the other end
put a strong bit of wire D, and let it come through the trigger-hole B
B, bent and turned up at the extremity, a quarter of an inch, that it
may hitch or fasten to the trigger, and over the trigger-hole about half
an inch, nail a little piece of wood C, about two inches long, in order
to stop the tiller, to prevent its going into the trigger-hole; let your
standard E, at the top of the trap, be five inches high, with a notch in
the centre, opposite the trigger-hole; let it be half an inch wide, and
two inches down; then you must put a small nail at each end, to both
which tie a string and bring them through the notch in the standard and
tie them both together; then cut one end off, and bringing the other end
down tie it to the trigger, which is the small piece of wood tied to the
end of the string, in order to set the trap, which must be set up about
six or seven inches high, at each end. The intent of having the under
pieces but six inches high, is, that you may be enabled to take them out
with the greater safety; for when you place the small wire cage at the
end of the trap, then lift the end thereof level or even with the small
hole at the side of the cage, and there will be sufficient room for the
Rat to go into the cage very easily.
[Illustration: _Plate IV._ _Page 88._ The RAT TRAP set. _Fig. 1._ The
BOX wherein the RAT TRAP is placed. _J. Lodge sc._]
Having described the trap, I now proceed to another particular, which
is, that you must put it into a large box, in order to keep other
animals from eating the food prepared for the Rat, and likewise to
hinder the dogs from coming to it; for sometimes, when they find a trap
where the Rats come to feed, they will lie by it and baulk the Rats.
This box, therefore, is a safeguard or defence for them, for when any
thing disturbs them, they will run in at the holes, at each end of the
bottom of the box, to save themselves, and when the ends of the trap are
sheltered, they will feed quietly; if therefore your dogs should come
and disturb the traps, you must baulk them, and, during your absence,
mind to lock the boxes, to keep any person from them, which has always
been my constant practice.
The box [pl. IV. fig. 2.] is made in this manner: three feet long, a
foot and a half wide, and twenty inches high, with two small holes E,
one at each end, at the back, close to the bottom of the box, about
three inches diameter, or square, as you like; then the Rats can go in
and out without being disturbed, and no other animal can take their food
but themselves. Let the inside traps have a pound weight of sheet-lead
nailed on at each end, which will make them strike quick, and keep the
end down, for I have known them to get out of these traps for want of
sufficient weight: and for the more effectually preventing them from
getting their noses under the end and lifting them up, take a small
piece of wood, an inch wide and three quarters of an inch thick, and put
it across, at the bottom, in the inside, at each end, that the end of
the trap may strike down flush without side. Let this piece of wood be
lined with tin, that they may not gnaw it away. Let the traps be made of
stout inch-fir, which is the best wood you can make use of; for that
will never warp nor bend, as other wood does; but any old packing box
will do for the outside. If they are not exactly made as I have already
prescribed, they will answer the intent, yet if you are obliged to make
new ones, they may as well be made according to the directions before
given; but if it is a quiet place where you can lock the door, or in a
barn, or the outside of a barn at a farm-house, the following trap may
be used with great advantage and efficacy, which is the common hutch or
box trap, which however must be sheltered, at each end, as before
directed. This trap the reader is referred to [plate II. fig. 1.] and
likewise to the description of the same, in the account of the wild cat,
in page 49 of this work. And here I beg leave to give a general caution
to the reader, which is, to follow the directions laid down in the
preceding pages, and practise them by himself; for company will baulk
the sport, and when once the traps are baulked, the blame will fall upon
the author, who is not in the least in fault; for he will maintain and
abide by every instruction before given, to be exactly just and true.
Remember, likewise, that they are a very subtle vermin, for if they in
the least suspect what you are about, you cannot catch them, for I would
not have you imagine that any kind of vermin will ever enter a trap,
knowing it to be one; on the contrary, you must entice and encourage
them by the means before laid down, which will make them bold, and
enable you to catch them with the greatest facility imaginable. Now when
you have set all your traps to work, you will want to scent them, which
must be performed in this manner; take twenty drops of the oil of
rhodium, six or seven grains of musk, half an ounce of the oil of
anniseed, put them in a small phial for use, and before you set the
traps, shake them well together, then scent your traps as follows: Take
a small piece of paper twisted up, dip it in the bottle, and rub each
end of the trap, and put two or three drops on the bridge, and likewise
the holes at each end of the box; leave the paper in each trap, and let
every trap be served in this manner; the reason of mixing these three
ingredients together is, that I have always tried it with success, for
in some places the rats love the smell of rhodium, in others they like
the smell of musk, and again, in other places, they love the smell of
anniseed; on this account I mix them all together, that the scent of
either one or other of the above ingredients may entice and allure them
to the trap. Another piece of instruction is necessary to be given: when
you first set your traps to work, different means are to be used
according to the different places you are catching at; if it is at a
dog-kennel, put some small pieces of boiled flesh about in the trap, as
well as the feed; if in a slaughter-house, put some small bits of fat,
or small pieces of guts; if in a brewhouse put some malt; if in a
still-house put some of the meal; if in a mill the same; if at a barn,
put in some corn as well as the feed, and so likewise in all other
instances. The reason of this method of proceeding is, in whatever
places your traps are set, put some of the same things in the trap as
they have been before used to; for then they have not so great a notion
of its being a trap: you must not use any of the scenting in the feed,
for there is nothing they are so fond of in their food as the oil of
carraways.
_The Recipe how to make the Food or Feed._
Take a pound of good flour, three ounces of treacle, and six drops of
the oil of carraways, put them all into a bowl, and rub them well
together, till it looks all alike; be sure to mix it well; then put a
pound of the crumb of bread to it; for they like the bread mixt with
their feed better than the feed alone, it being too luscious, for which
reason they do not like it so well by itself; but that night on which
you catch, put no bread to it, lest they should carry it away.
There is a necessity for your having two wire cages, one small, [pl. II.
fig. 2.] used in going round your traps, in order to take the vermin out
to put them into the larger one, made in the manner following:
The small wire cage must be thus constructed; let it be nine inches in
length by nine wide, four inches and a half high, with a fall in it at
one end and a door at the other, the first to let them in at, and the
other to let them out into the great cage, which must be made as
follows: Let it be twenty inches long, nine inches wide, and eight
inches high, with a fall at one end, to let them in from the small cage,
and a door on the top to take them out at; now when you are catching,
set your great cage out of the way, at some distance, that the other
Rats may not hear them squeak, for that will baulk your sport and
occasion them to run away. In the morning, if you do not choose to drown
them, perhaps you will want to hunt those you have taken, and know not
how to take them out at the top of the great cage; but this may be done
very easily; for if you do not hurt them they will not bite you; for by
standing together in the trap all night they are cowed, and have not the
least notion of biting, unless you should happen to squeeze them too
hard; but you may take them out one by one, with your hand, very safely.
Now this matter is a secret, for we always inculcate the notion that
they will bite you terribly, unless you rub your hands with some kind of
ingredient or other. I was once of that opinion myself, but am now
better convinced; indeed when there are but four or five left behind in
the trap, they are apt to be very violent and outrageous, you may then
shake them out to your dog. There is a wide difference in the temper and
disposition of these animals; for some are so savage and untamed, that
they will set up their backs, looking very fiercely and crying out, if
you do but look at them; but when you meet with one of this kind, shake
him well in the cage, together with the rest, and observe when he has
put his head among the others, and take him out by his tale and he will
not bite you; but observe when you have first catched them do not go to
handle them directly, for then they are so mad and furious that they
will bite any thing.
I shall here give the reader another maxim I have often followed very
successfully; if you find the holes quiet and no rats to use them, it
will then be incumbent on you to stop them up in this manner, to prevent
others from entering therein: Take a pint of common tar, half an ounce
of pearl-ashes, an ounce of oil of vitriol, and a good handful of common
salt, mix them all well together in any old deep pan; get some pieces of
paper, and put some of the above mixture very thick on the paper, and
place enough of this into the holes to stop them, and then let the
bricklayer make good after you; and if you should find any of the holes
opened again, it is certain you had not put in a sufficient quantity,
then put in some more, and, if it is done as it ought, they will never
approach there any more, while either smell or taste remains in it; now
by stopping the holes in the shores in town, where they come up, with
the above mixture, I have kept a gentleman’s house entirely clear, and
never have caught one single Rat.
Now sometimes they will get in behind the wainscot and in the ceiling,
in town, and not come out into the house, but remain there, and become
very troublesome, and this is a very bad case: in order therefore to
make them forsake these places, find out a small hole or crack, then
take a handful of common salt, and put it in at the hole or crack, and
pour upon the salt a spoonful or two of oil of vitriol, and this will
make such a fumigation or smoke, that they cannot bear it, then stop the
hole or crevice again, that the smoke may not come out, do this in two
or three places, as near where you hear them as you can, and it will
cause them to forsake those places. This method is very safe, as no
damage can possibly ensue to the wainscot from the smoke.
I shall now point out a method to kill them, where you cannot set a trap
for them: Take a quart of the same food, before made use of in taking
them in traps, then rasp three figs of nux vomica, add to these a
quarter of a pound of crumb of bread, mix them all well together, and
this will be their certain bane; but first give them some without the
nux vomica figs, for two or three succeeding nights, and when they find
it agrees with them, they will then eat that mixed with the fig, with
great freedom and greediness.
I am not much a friend to poisoning Rats in houses, except in cases of
necessity, but if it must be done, I would by no means recommend the use
of arsenic, or corrosive sublimate, which is too often practised, for
then they creep into holes about the house, get between the ceilings,
and other places, and there die, and occasion a very disagreeable smell;
for as soon as they have taken enough of it, it is like a spark of fire
in their bowels, and brings on an insatiate thirst, and they are
restless and uneasy till they get at something to drink, either water,
milk, or beer, and then they die immediately; from this circumstance it
is evident what dangerous consequences may arise, if any person should
drink any of the milk or beer, where these vermin, thus poisoned, have
been slavering and drinking; but sometimes it is a difficult matter to
make them swallow enough to kill them, for the moment they taste the
sharp acid contained therein, it corrodes the mouth and loosens the
teeth, and then they will eat no more of it, whereas the mixture of the
nux vomica, before recommended, is quite different, and if even tasted
by any person, no such fatal effects can happen, for there is nothing
but a little bitter taste that is disagreeable; and they will take a
sufficient quantity to kill them before they know it, and then they
cannot get rid of it, for it throws them into fits, puts them to the
greatest agony, and they die soon after; and in order to be more certain
of its effects, I have kept them in a cage, and gave it them to try the
experiment.
I conclude my account of the Rat with the few following particulars,
which I flatter myself will prove useful; they are often very
troublesome in coming up the shores, more especially in still-houses and
brewhouses; now in the above instances, or in any other shores, where
you cannot conveniently set a trap, I have practised the subsequent
scheme with great success, which although it does not destroy them, will
infallibly drive them away: When you have catched some Rats and killed
them, take some white arsenic, finely powdered, put it into an old
pepper-box, and shake a quantity of it on the fore parts of the dead
Rats, and put them down the holes or avenues by the sides of the shores,
where they come in at, which will put a stop to their coming any
farther; for when they once perceive the arsenic, they will retire
immediately, whereas if you was to put them down without the arsenic,
the living Rats would eat the dead ones; I have seen one Rat kill
another, when put into the large cage, and afterwards eat him; and once
had an old she Rat, big with young, which she brought forth in the cage,
and immediately eat them; for there is no kind of vermin whatever so
savage as a Norway Rat; again, when you find they have taken to a rick
of any sort of corn or hay, take some dead Rats, put some arsenic over
them, as before observed, then place one in each hole they have made in
the thatch, and it will make them all forsake the rick; in like manner
you may stop some of these Rats, served as before, under the barn-floor,
where the Rats use, and it will prevent others from taking shelter or
harbouring under them; these vermin are likewise very fond of lying
under the calve-pens, where they keep snug and warm; use the above
method and it will drive them away; and also in any of their burrows, if
you can put the dead Rats, prepared as above, so safe that nothing can
easily get at them, and by observing these rules, you will obtain the
desired effect.
THE
BLACK RAT.
This animal is the old genuine English House-Rat, no other being known
in and about houses, for many ages, in this country, and differs in many
particulars from the Norway Rat, last described, for they do not burrow
and run into shores as the others do, but chiefly lie in the cielings
and wainscots in houses, and in out-houses they lie under the
ridge-tiles and behind the rafters, and run along the side-plates; but
their numbers are greatly diminished to what they were formerly, not
many of them being now left, for the Norway Rats always drive them out,
and kill them wherever they can come at them; as a proof of which I was
once exercising my employment at a gentleman’s house, and when the night
came that I appointed to catch, I set all my traps going as usual, and
in the lower part of the house, in the cellars, I caught the Norway
Rats, but in the upper part of the house I took nothing but the black
Rats; I then put them together into the great cage, to keep them alive
till the morning, that the gentleman might see them, when the Norway
Rats killed the black ones immediately, and devoured them in my
presence.
These vermin are not near so bold, nor will feed so freely as the Norway
Rat, and when you are troubled with any of them you must observe where
they use, which you may do very easily, for if you go into any place and
look up at the side-plates, you will perceive they will be quite black
where they run along them, and likewise along the cross beams; on these
cross beams place one of the traps you set for the Norway Rats, and put
some of the same feed in them, but mix more bread in it than you did for
the Norway Rat, and scent the trap in the same manner, and put some corn
in of any sort: set a trap at each place where they use, and set them
all to feed, as you do the others for the Norway Rat; and when you
perceive that they come to feed boldly, then take them; but this must be
done in the night, for they do not move by day-light, as the other rats
will. By this method I catch them alive, but I have likewise taken them
on the side-plates and beams, where they run, in wires and in snares, so
that they swing off the beams; they are not near so savage as the Norway
Rats, for they seldom kill any chickens or any thing of that kind,
unless extremely hungry and sharp set indeed, but they are sly thieves
for cheese, bacon, or any kind of eatables they can get at and pilfer.
THE
WATER RAT.
These Rats lie always by the waterside, and feed chiefly on grass and
vegetables, eating neither flesh or corn, but they will devour green
peas, when in season, if there are any growing near the ditches where
they lie; these vermin do not much mischief, except in making holes in
banks and spoiling fences; they make kennels or holes by the side of
ditches, very much resembling those of the otter, for they have one way
out in the water, and another way out by land, in order to escape from
their enemies, which ever way pursued. The method of taking them is by
setting little hutch traps by the side of the ditch or pond where they
lie, with wings made with bushes or raised with mould, running aslant
from the trap as a guide for them to go in, such as they have in
warrens. Feed them with any thing green, such as the hard part or stalk
cut out of a cabbage, or cabbage-leaves, which they will eat; but do not
set your traps going till they feed boldly, and give them some leaves
regularly, as you do the other Rats their proper feed; tie some of these
leaves in the trap, then you will be a judge of what comes to feed, else
one will convey away as much as ten will eat, which occasions you to
conclude there are a great many of them. You may take them another way;
get some small steel traps and put them in their runs, even with the
surface of the ground, and covered over very nicely with the mould.
These vermin are something like the Norway Rat, but smaller, their noses
and tails are shorter, and their heads rounder, or what is commonly
termed muffheaded.
THE
SQUIRREL.
These little animals are admired for their beauty, and for the sport
they afford in hunting them among the trees; they are about the size of
the stoat or cain, with a tail as large as their body, which they always
turn up when they sit still, to keep their bodies warm; they are of a
reddish colour, except under the belly, which is white; they make
themselves nests or lodging places, commonly called drays, in a very
neat manner, with small sticks, leaves, and moss, in the tops of the
trees, where they hoard up nuts to serve them in the winter; but besides
these, they make a reserve of nuts, acorns, and other things of a
similar nature in retired and bye places, which they know where to find,
in case the other should be taken away, which often happens; they are
chiefly hurtful in destroying wall-fruit, for they will run along the
top of the wall, taking the first choice of the fruit, whether
nectarines, peaches, apricots, _&c._ and do prodigious mischief; I have
caught them on the wall with a small steel trap, covered nicely, and in
wood-walks I have seen them take the eggs out of birds-nests and break
them, by that means destroying their nests. Their flesh is reckoned a
great dainty by some persons, and is said to be superior to venison in
flavour.
THE
MOLE.
This animal is in some places, but chiefly in the North of England,
called a Want, and, contrary to most other vermin, lives chiefly under
ground; its skin is of a fine black jet colour, very smooth and soft,
and has short legs, with which they, with incredible swiftness, will dig
themselves into the earth when they apprehend any danger; they are
supposed by some people to be entirely blind, it being in many places
proverbial to say _as blind as a mole_, but this is a mistake, for they
have eyes as well as other vermin, but very small, appearing scarcely
larger than the head of a common pin, but sufficient to serve their
purposes, their residence being, as was before observed, generally under
the earth.
These animals do great mischief in gardens and grounds, and if you find
they come observe the outsides, for their angle, or run; or, if there is
a path in a field, it is very probable but they have a run across the
path, or at a gate-way, they will frequently have one; these are what we
call the main runs, and about two or three inches under the earth, and
may very easily be found by the heaving up of the mould or earth, along
which they will run ten times in a day. When you have discovered one of
these runs, you must tread in the earth tight, and when you come that
way again, see whether it is as you left it, and if you perceive the
Mole has been along, then set a trap, by which means I have caught
several of them in an afternoon; these being their main roads out of one
part of the ground to the other, for it will be of little signification
to set a trap in any other angles or runs, and if you should, it may
possibly remain a great while before a Mole comes; for in the spring,
when they run near the surface of the earth, they make a great many
different angles in search of the worms, on which and chaffers their
chief food consists.
Now if they make hills in your fields or gardens, take notice of the
places before mentioned, and set a trap in the following manner: Take a
piece of board half an inch thick, four inches and a half long, by two
and a half wide, then put a small hoop or bow at each end, with just
room for the Mole to go through; then in the centre, at each side, put
two small pegs, in order to keep them in the trap; for sometimes one
that is shy, when he finds the peg before him that springs the trap,
will turn out at the side and spring the trap, and not be taken: it is
necessary therefore to use these small pegs, which will keep them in the
straight road, placed as before directed. In the next place, get two
strong horse-hairs, or pieces of small wire, then in the centre or
middle of the bow, at each end, make a hole to put the hair or wire
through double, then open the hair or wire just to fit, and lie close
inside of the bow, like a noose, get some fine mould, make it moist like
paste, and work some of it with your finger and thumb all round in the
inside of the bow, so that the horse-hair or wire may not be
perceivable. Through the hole in the centre of the trap let a short bit
of string come. Put a forked peg tight in the hole, that may keep the
string from slipping through, till the Mole, by going through, pushes it
out; then the string slips up. When you have thus prepared the trap,
then open one of the runs, exactly the length of the trap, and put it
down in the run quite level, and make it all smooth, that there may be
no light discovered. Then take three good strong hooked pegs, two on one
side, and one on the other, and stick them down tight, then take a stiff
stick, about four feet long, stick one end in the ground tight, bring
the other end down to the trap and hitch in a loop, that comes from the
hair or wire, and then it is set, and when the Mole comes he pushes out
this little peg, then the string draws out, the bow-string flies up, and
the Mole is caught; in the spring time, when you catch a she Mole, rub
her back part about the bows and the inside of the trap, by which method
I have caught eight he Moles successively; observe, when you have caught
all that you perceive to move, you need only look round the outside of
your fields, and keep some traps constantly going there, and they will
lay hold of them as they come in and out; another expedient you may make
use of, by putting some dead Moles in the runs where they come, which
will prevent their coming, and keep your ground quiet and free from
these trouble-vermin.
THE
HOUSE-MOUSE.
These are a nasty little vermin, well known, and are very nauseous, for
wherever they come, whether in the pantry or larder, you may easily
discover it by the disagreeable smell they leave behind them. They are
very troublesome in dairies, where they will skim the milk, and will get
into bird-cages after the seed, and kill the birds; and are mischievous
in other instances, of which no mention needs here to be made. Many
persons would doubtless be glad to be informed of a method to kill these
vermin, which is done very easily; and to accomplish it nothing is so
good as nux vomica; take a quart of the feed above prescribed for the
rat, before there is any bread mixed with it, then take four figs of nux
vomica, and rasp them very fine, or else they will pick the feed from
it, upon account of the bitter taste; rub it well together, and it will
be their certain bane. My method of laying it is after this manner; if
they come into the larder at night, put the bread into a pan, and take
the other eatables out of the way; then lay some of the feed on a piece
of paper, and do this in two or three other places, which will not be
attended with any danger, however, for fear of any accident, what is not
eaten take away in the morning, and at night lay it down again, and so
keep on as long as any come; in the dairy do the same, or in any other
place where they appear; I have found several lay dead on the paper at
one time, but remember always to lay the ingredients on paper, then you
may take away what is left.
THE
FIELD MOUSE.
This is a larger Mouse than the former, being the largest of the Mouse
kind, with a reddish back and a good deal of white under the belly. They
abound in gardens, and frequently swarm in prodigious numbers in the
fields: they will eat either corn or flesh just as it comes in their
way. I have seen five or six of them by moon-light attack a large toad
and kill it, which they do often; and when I have been trailing for a
fox in the night, I have observed, by turning the light round, several
of these Field-Mice following the trail. They are more difficult to
destroy than the house-mice, on account that they are shy in taking any
bait; however, sometimes, when I have been going to catch a fox, I have
been sometimes obliged to put some of the feed (so often before
mentioned) in the shrape, in order to kill the Mice, before I could get
any to lie for the fox. In winter they will likewise come into houses at
the sink-holes, and get into the pantries, larders and dairies, being
driven from the fields by extremity of hunger, and prove very
troublesome and pernicious; and in spring they will get into the
gardens, and eat whole rows or drills of peas, after they are set: I can
give no better method to destroy these vermin, than to lay some of the
above feed for them, as you do for the other, on a tile, and shelter it
with some pieces of old boards that it may not get wet: lay it out at
night and take it in again in the morning, and all that eat of it will
certainly die.
THE
RED SHREW-MOUSE.
This species of the Mouse-kind has a nose like a mole, and is in general
a very harmless, inoffensive little animal, in regard to its preying on
any thing: it is much smaller than the house-mouse. The chief mischief
done by these vermin is, that in harvest-time they will come home with
the corn, remain there and breed. I have known great numbers taken out
of a rick; and I once remember half a bushel of these and other Mice
caught at one time out of a rick or stand, which is often owing to the
farmer’s own negligence and inattention; for you may often see a
rick-stand made a nursery, occasioned by putting under it harrows,
ploughs, hurdles and props: what avails it then to have a stand to fill
the ricks in this manner, and assist the vermin up? You cannot indeed
prevent their coming home with the corn, or when rats hop up and down
the stand, which they do very easily: the best method, therefore, would
be to nail some tin to the props, which would keep the Mice from getting
up them; and when once you find they have got to a corn-rick, the best
way is to take it in as soon as you can, for these Mice, in one
particular, are worse than the rats among the corn, and do a great deal
more mischief; for this reason, that they will live a great while
without water, only by licking the ends of the straws, while any
moisture remains therein, and all the while they remain in the ricks
they do infinite prejudice. If it is not convenient to remove the rick,
observe the following method; take a quarter of a pound of the best nux
vomica, put it into an old saucepan, with three quarts of water, boil it
till it comes to two quarts, and put two pounds of treacle to it, in
order to overcome the bitter taste of the nux vomica; then take some
small earthen pans, into which pour some of this mixture, and set the
pans in different places under the eaves of the ricks; the Mice being in
want of water, will greedily drink of the mixture, which will kill them;
and this method you must continue till they are destroyed.
Before I conclude this account, I cannot help taking notice of a gross
blunder, which a certain writer has made in his description of this
little vermin, who asserts that it is as large as a rat, of the colour
of a weasel, and very mischievous to cattle, and that it will get upon a
beast’s back, and make it lame in the chine; and in consequence of the
bite, the beast will swell to the heart and die; all which particulars
are entirely erroneous; for its size is less than that of the common
house-mouse, its colour like the squirrel; and as to the miraculous
affair of its killing any beast or cattle, it is of a piece with the
rest. On the contrary, I am convinced from long observation, that it
feeds on roots, vegetables, and corn, and will not touch flesh on any
account.
THE
BLACK SHREW-MOUSE.
This animal has a nose like a mole, and much resembles the red
shrew-mouse, last described, except in colour; they are very harmless
little creatures, for they seldom come to barns or ricks, their
residence being amongst the grass, by the sides of ditches which they
feed on. You may often hear them as you are walking along, squeaking by
the path’s side, and making a noise something like the grasshopper; but
they do not the least mischief that I know of; I thought proper however
to mention them, that the reader might know that such a little animal
really exists.
THE
GRASS MOUSE.
This Mouse is rather larger than the common Mouse, with a muff-head like
a water rat, and a short club tail, looking as if the top was cut off,
and has a great deal of the nature and disposition of that animal, for
it eats no corn at all, but lives on grass and vegetables; being of a
very harmless nature, it is a prey to other vermin, as the water rat is,
(such as stoats and weasels) which are the worst enemies it has.
THE
DORMOUSE.
This is a small red Mouse, with a tail like a squirrel, and is the most
harmless and inoffensive of all the mouse-tribe. It is a very beautiful
tame little animal, and is kept by many persons in small boxes or cages,
and fed with crumbs of bread, _&c._ They have one singular and peculiar
quality, which is that of sleeping for several weeks together, without
receiving the least sustenance, and appearing all the while as if dead.
You may oftentimes find them in dry banks, or in wood, laid up very warm
in a nest, in the ground, made with oak-leaves, and always asleep when
you discover them.
THE
BAT.
This little animal is half mouse, half bird, having wings something
resembling leather, and a head very much like that of the mouse, except
that their nose is flatter, and their mouth wider; they keep close in
holes all the day and never fly abroad till the evening, and that in the
summer time, for which reason they are called in many places, the winged
mouse; they live chiefly on flies and other small insects, and dwell in
holes under the roofs of houses, churches, barns, old ruinated
buildings, and in the holes of hollow trees, where in winter time I have
sometimes found several scores of them closely adhering together, in
large clusters, and in a torpid state, in which condition they doubtless
remain till vivified again by the enlivening warmth of the sun, on the
approach of the summer. I have been the more particular in my account
and description of the different kinds of Mice, as perhaps many of my
readers might be unacquainted, that there are so many distinct species
of the mouse-kind.
THE
LARGE BLACK EAGLE
BUZZARD.
Having finished my account of the four-footed vermin, I now come to
describe the winged-tribe of vermin, inhabitants of the air, which,
notwithstanding, often descend to earth, and do much mischief; I shall
begin with the Black Eagle-Buzzard, which is one of the largest and
fiercest birds of the hawk kind, that breeds in England.
This bird frequents parks and warrens, and often catches leverets, young
rabbits and pheasants, or any thing else that moves, as soon as the
morning light approaches, for they are a very early bird; in winter time
I have caught them in a steel trap, the same as is set in a cube for a
dog; bait it with the guts of rabbits or fowls, or some pieces of
rabbits that you find dead by accident; in spring I have caught them in
steel traps, with the skin of a young rabbit stuffed and tied to the
bridge, but after the young rabbits begin to be able to run about, they
sometimes are shy and will not strike at a rabbit, unless they see him
run; the steel traps that you set for this vermin should strike seven or
eight inches high, in order to clear the bait as it ought to be,
otherwise the jaws might only catch the bait, and miss the vermin; I
have sometimes caught them with a rat in the following manner: set two
traps in the manner as you see in plate VI. fig. 1. head to head,
covered very nicely with moss, then round the circle as in the same
plate, put some small pieces of fern, or a bush or two, quite low, that
the bait may be visible and open; put the bait, whatever it may be, in
the middle, between the two traps, then he must of necessity go over one
of them, in order to get the bait, and by this means I have often caught
him. Sometimes you may observe him to haunt a place in a warren or park
for a week or fortnight together, then set your traps in the same method
as before laid down, and you will be almost certain of taking him. Let
your bait be a dead rat, if you can procure one.
THE
GREY BOB-TAILED
BUZZARD,
OR
PUTTOCK.
This bird is much of the same nature as the former, in haunting parks
and warrens, for the destruction of rabbits and pheasants, going in
search of them when the morning light appears. In this respect, however,
it differs from the Eagle-Buzzard, that it is smaller. You may catch
them with the steel trap above described, baited with the entrails of
fowls or rabbits, or with some of the pieces of rabbits which may have
been accidentally killed. They are to be caught easiest in winter time,
for then I have known them haunt one place for a month together, in a
warren, where you may easily catch them, as at that season they are
short and destitute of food.
THE
LARGE FORKED TAIL
KITE.
This is the largest and heaviest bird of the hawk kind in England, but
not near so fierce as the Eagle-Buzzard, being rather of a sluggish and
indolent disposition, not caring much to hunt after prey; but when the
other kites and hawks have killed any birds, they come upon them, and
beat them away, and then devour the birds themselves; they chiefly dwell
in woods and desart places, and frequent the sides of rivers and brooks,
being fond of fish, and often eat the tails of the fish, which the
otters have left behind them. You may catch them by setting two traps,
in the same manner as you do for the buzzard; bait them with a piece of
fish, if you have it, or with a rat, or the guts of fowls or rabbits,
and when once you discover the places they haunt, you may catch them
with the greatest facility.
THE
LARGE BLUE SHERARD
KITE.
This kind of Kite frequents forests, heaths, and other lonesome places,
but especially bogs and marshy grounds, where they destroy great numbers
of snipes, to which they are the worst enemy of any bird of prey of the
hawk kind; they beat all over the bog with the greatest regularity and
exactness, till they find them lying: for the nature of the snipe is, if
they perceive their enemy in the pursuit, they lie as close to the
ground as possible, when the Kite pounces upon them directly and takes
them: I have observed one of these vermin beating at one end of a bog or
marshy piece of ground; and at the other end I have stooped down till he
has come up close to the place where I was, he looking stedfastly down
for his prey, regardless of any thing else; and when he came near enough
I have shot him; sometimes they will have a beat cross a warren, where I
have caught them in traps, baited with what is termed a stall, which is
a young rabbit-skin stuffed.
These vermin are very remarkable for one particular circumstance, for at
any time when you observe any of them come along in the morning, you
will be certain of seeing them return the same way back again in the
afternoon, and three or four succeeding mornings they will have the same
beat, if they are not frightened or disturbed; whenever, therefore, you
see one go along in the morning, get a trap set ready against his
return, baited with a rabbit’s skin stuffed and put on the bridge of the
trap, as before directed, but remember to cover the trap nicely with
moss; if you set it in a green sward, then cover it with grass, and in
this manner I have often taken them; I have likewise caught them by
means of two steel traps, set in the same manner as for the buzzard; but
always mind when you set traps in this manner, to fasten down the bait
between them with a peg, otherwise they will frequently take it away,
and not strike the trap; but when the bait is fixed they cannot get it
away, but are constrained to stop, when by hopping and picking about,
they spring the trap and are caught.
THE
BLUE SHERARD
HAWK.
This bird, in many respects, resembles the blue kite last described, in
haunting heaths, forests, and lonely places; especially quags and marshy
grounds, doing much mischief, particularly among the snipes. You will
always be sure of seeing him return home by the same path, in the
afternoon, by which he pursued his flight in the morning, but he is not
so large, and preys in much the same manner, but does not, however,
frequent warrens so often as the other; you may catch them by the same
method as the Sherard Kite, with a rabbit’s skin stuffed and put on the
bridge of the trap, remembering to cover the trap nicely with moss or
grass, observing the directions before given.
THE LARGE
BROWN, WHITE ARSE,
RING-TAILED
HAWK,
Is the most pernicious and mischievous Hawk that flies; but especially
in destroying that admired game the partridge, which it takes, not so
much by swift flying, as by the following manner or stratagem: viz. when
they find a covey and spring them, they fly after them as fast as they
are able, and mark where they pitch down again, and then spring them
again; and thus keep following them till they catch their prey; for
partridges, when they are driven hard for three flights, become so tired
and languid that they are easily taken; I have sometimes observed one of
these Hawks in full pursuit after a poor partridge, almost spent, when
the Hawk has suddenly stopped, and alighted on a tree in the next hedge,
to which I imagined the partridge had taken, as they frequently do, when
they are almost tired or down. On this I got near enough the Hawk, being
intent and earnest after his prey, shot him dead, and on examining, to
my great surprize, found that the partridge, being driven by the Hawk,
had taken refuge in a hutchtrap, that stood on the other side of the
hedge, where the Hawk had marked it, and sat watching for its coming out
again; these vermin will keep their walk or beat for some time very
regularly. I have caught them in a trap, baited with a rabbit-skin
stuffed, as before observed.
THE
SMALL RING-TAILED
HAWK
Is the largest of the Sparrow-Hawk kind, and is a very fierce and
pernicious bird, destroying young ducks and chickens, in yards, &c.
about farm-houses, in the fields, they kill black-birds, thrushes, and
in the winter-season fieldfares and other small birds; I have driven one
from a blackbird, and immediately set down a steel trap, covered quite
smoothly, placing the same bird on the bridge of the trap, and have
taken the Hawk, which returned soon after for its prey. They will
likewise frequently come to the chicken-gardens and pheasantries, when
you must set a steel trap, baited with a dead chicken or any other of
the birds before mentioned; which they delight to feed on, and in all
probability you will lay hold of them, and if you find they have been
made shy, by reason of the trap striking and not catching them, which
will sometimes, though very rarely, happen, you may destroy them after
the following manner: take a live chicken, tie it to a small stake drove
in the ground, by one of its legs, laying some bread or corn for it to
feed on; then get out of sight, with your gun, and the hawk will come
and strike at the chicken, when you may easily shoot him, and this
method I have often practised with good success.
THE
SMALL SPARROW
HAWK.
Birds which fly wild in the fields, are the chief prey of this little
Hawk. It very seldom destroys chickens, or any other kind of poultry,
unless driven by the greatest extremity of hunger; I have driven them
from a bird, and caught them in a steel trap as I have the others,
having been allowed so much per head for all the winged vermin, as well
as others that I destroyed, which made me very anxious and assiduous in
trying and inventing various methods to destroy them.
THE
SMALL BLACK-HEADED
SPARROW-HAWK.
I never caught this Hawk in a trap, but have shot several of them; it is
a very beautiful bird, and has a black head, with pointed wings, and is
very quick and sharp after its prey, which are small birds of every
kind. It is more timid than the last mentioned Hawk, and is seldom seen,
there being but few of them in England. On which account we need not
dwell minutely upon him.
THE
WIND-HOVER
HAWK.
You may often see this little brown Hawk, the smallest of the species,
hovering in the air, then they steadily look down on the ground, and if
they chance to see a mouse, they will dart with incredible swiftness,
like an arrow out of a bow, and catch it; sometimes they will catch a
mole, and I have frequently taken this kind of Hawk in a steel trap, by
laying one of these animals on the bridge; and with this I conclude my
account of the birds of the Hawk kind. The three last mentioned indeed
do not much damage or mischief, but if I had not mentioned them the
catalogue would have been incomplete; besides, I flatter myself it will
be acceptable to my readers, some of whom might, possibly, not be
acquainted that there were so many different kinds of Hawks which breed
in England.
THE
BROWN
WOOD-OWL.
Few persons perhaps imagine this to be a pernicious animal, yet in my
opinion, it is the very worst winged vermin that exists; they seize
their prey with great fierceness, and break it up exactly as the cat
does, by beginning at the fore part. It is very happy for the farmer,
and others who keep poultry, that the ducks and chickens are gone to
roost before the Owl comes to prey in the night, otherwise there would
be few, if any of them left; however I now proceed to make good my
assertion, and describe the infinite mischief done by this sort of Owls.
When the evening approaches, many animals such as leverets, young
rabbits, young pheasants, young partridges, who had lain quiet in the
day-time, come out to feed in the stillness and silence of the evening,
when there is nothing else to disturb them, the Owl then comes, when
they are exposed, and takes away what he pleases, and if they happen to
have young ones at the same time, it is impossible to conceive what
numbers will be taken away in a night’s time to satisfy his voracious
appetite; and this I can affirm from my own observation, as I used to
make it my frequent practice to go out and hunt the Owls all round the
outsides of the warren. The method was this, two of us used to go with a
gun, one on one side of the hedge, and the other on the other side; a
third person accompanying us with a long pole or stick, who therewith
beat the hollow and ivy trees, when the Owls would fly out, and we have
shot sometimes a dozen in a morning. But one morning particularly I
found an Owl’s nest, and shot the hen; and, on examining the nest, I
found two young ones, with several pieces of young rabbits, leverets,
&c. therein, but we could not meet with the old cock; on which I took
out one of the young ones, leaving the other in order to entice him home
to the nest again; the next morning I repaired to the place, when he
flew out, and I shot him dead, and took away the other young one which
had been left behind. But, what is remarkable, the old Owl had carried
no less than three young rabbits to the single young one remaining, in
one night’s time, which is an evident proof what havoc they make among
the game. Another particular of these vermin deserves mentioning, which
is, that they seldom eat more than the fore-quarters of any animal they
kill, as the cat does, and always leaves the hind quarters untouched,
which are found in the nest. I have likewise caught them in moon-light
evenings in steel traps, baited with a rabbit-skin stuffed, and have
often killed many of them with a gun, by keeping close under the hedge,
and imitating the squeaking of a mouse, when the Owl has come directly
to the place, and I have shot him dead on the spot.
THE
LIGHT COLOURED BARN,
OR,
SCREECH OWL.
This kind of Owl is a very beautiful bird, of a palish brown colour, a
little spotted and white on the breast, doing more good than harm, for
it seldom preys on any thing but mice, which it will watch for in the
barns like a cat, and destroy great numbers of that little vermin. On
this account these Owls are encouraged by the farmers. If you should see
one of them, mimick the squeaking of the mouse, and he will come to you
directly, and you may easily shoot him, as was before observed of the
Wood-Owl.
THE
HORNED OWL
Has its name from the feathers which stand up on each side of his head,
resembling two horns, and making a very beautiful appearance. There are
many people, who do not believe there are any Owls of this species bred
amongst us; the large brown horned Owl, (which is bigger than our
largest birds of prey, whether kite or buzzard) is indeed from foreign
parts, and is esteemed a very great curiosity, but never breeds here,
which this little Horned Owl does, and much resembles the large one,
only in miniature. I have shot several of them on Windsor-Forest: they
do no mischief that I could ever learn, however I thought it proper to
mention them, that the reader may be assured there is such a bird
existing.
THE
FERN OWL,
OR
NIGHT JAR.
This is a very harmless bird, about the size of the small Sparrow-Hawk,
of a dark colour, and with a large mouth. They never go out till the
evening, and then catch beetles and other insects for their sustenance.
THE
RAVEN.
This is the largest bird that feeds on carrion, and is of a fine shining
colour; in some places it is very serviceable, in eating up the stinking
flesh or carcases of dead beasts and other carrion, but in many other
places very mischievous, and does a great deal of harm. I having been
allowed as much per head for killing them as I had for kites and hawks,
as they are equally pernicious in killing and devouring young rabbits,
ducklings and chickens.
I know of no better way to catch them, where they become troublesome,
than to set two traps for them, in the same manner as you do for the
buzzard, [see plate VI. fig. 1.] and put a rat between them for a bait,
but when you have taken one or two, you must move your traps to another
place, or the others will prove too shy to be caught; for as soon as one
is taken, great numbers will keep round him, and seeing him fast, will
grow suspicious of some danger, and not come near the place any more;
but by observing the above method, in moving the traps, I have caught
great numbers of them in a day, though it is attended with some labour
and trouble.
I have often caught the London Ravens near twenty miles from home, in
warrens, where they will sometimes come after the young Rabbits; by the
London Ravens I mean those that generally frequent the outskirts of the
metropolis, and live upon the filth lying there, grubbing up the dirt in
order to get at their food, from whence the tops of their wings become
of a nasty, dusky brown colour, occasioned by their wallowing in the
dirt, by which means they are easily distinguishable from the country
Ravens, which are as black as jet, according to the old saying, _As
black as a Raven_.
[Illustration: _Plate V._ _page 174_ The RAT TRAP struck, describing
also the CAGE for taking out the VERMIN.]
I have seen some of these Ravens sit upon a lamb, that has been dropped
weak, not being able to run, when they have got to his head and picked
out the creature’s eyes while yet alive. Another remark I shall make,
which is to point out the difference between the manner of birds of the
hawk kind carrying their prey, and those of the carrion kind. Now it is
observable that buzzards, kites, hawks and owls, constantly carry their
prey in their claws, whereas Ravens, carrion-crows and magpies carry
their food in their beaks.
THE
CARRION
CROW.
This bird is well known, and in country places will do prodigious
mischief, by destroying young rabbits, chickens and ducks, and likewise
in sucking eggs, which the hens and ducks lay in the back yards or in
the hedges: these the Crows will break and eat as greedily as any other
vermin whatever. Now if you find they have any haunts about your house,
get a steel trap, of the same kind as you use for other winged vermin;
set it in the ground, quite level with the surface, and cover it with
moss; then take a little piece of bush or some fern, stick some of it
down, by one jaw quite low, and bring it round to the other jaw, [see
plate VI. fig. 1.] put the bait, whether it be an egg, or rat, a piece
of rabbit, or the guts of the same, or any thing else of this sort, in
the back part, on the tail of the trap; and when you have put the little
fence, before described all around, as a guide for him, he must of
necessity go over the trap for the bait, and be caught; but I have been
plagued with these as much as I have been with the Ravens, by being
obliged to move the trap after every Crow I had taken; but by observing
when one is caught, which you may easily hear, for they then make a
great noise and keep flying round their imprisoned brother, almost close
to the ground, you may then probably get a shoot, and kill some of them;
but sometimes I have known them so shy that I could not get them to the
trap at any rate. In this case you must observe the places where they
most frequent, and take a cat, or a ferret, and tie it to a stake; then
take a gun, and hide yourself, when the first Crow that sees the cat or
ferret will make a terrible screaming noise, and bring many more, who
scream and hover about till you have a fair shoot. In this manner I have
had, sometimes, three or four shoots before they dispersed, and killed
several of them; for when they see any kind of animal they are not used
to, in the day-time, it greatly attracts their attention, and they
wonder at it, as the small birds do at the sight of an owl by day-light;
and this is the best way to get at the shy ones. I have seen the Crows
pick out the eyes of a weak lamb, while alive, in the same manner as the
ravens will.
[Illustration: _Fig. 2._ The FOX TRAP struck
The CUBE for WINGED VERMIN _Fig. 1._]
THE
MAGPYE.
This is a very mischievous bird, doing great damage in warrens, and much
of the same nature as the crow, preying on all kinds of flesh and
carrion, like that animal. They are extremely pernicious about
farm-yards and houses, killing and devouring young ducks and chickens,
and likewise in sucking and destroying eggs in great numbers, about
farm-houses, where the hens lay them by the sides of the rickyards and
under the hedges. When you find they become troublesome in the above
instances, set your trap (where you observe them to come) in the same
manner as you do for the crow; bait it with a rat, which is as good a
bait as any, or with an egg; or if they have killed any young ducks or
chickens, and have not devoured them, at that place, where you find
them, set your trap, and bait it with the dead duckling or chicken, and
you need not fear catching them: but be careful to observe the following
rule, which is, as soon as one of the Magpyes is trapped, to take it out
as soon as possible, in order to set your trap again. You may easily
discover this event, for as soon as one is taken in the trap, it makes a
screaming noise, which brings great numbers of these vermin together,
who come hovering and flying over their captive brother, which will give
you a fair opportunity of shooting among them and destroying many. This
method I have often put into execution, and it has been attended with
very good success.
FINIS.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
● Used numbers for footnotes.
● The original did not include Plate II.
● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 74196 ***
The universal directory for taking alive and destroying rats
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THE
UNIVERSAL DIRECTORY
FOR
TAKING ALIVE AND DESTROYING
RATS,
AND ALL OTHER KINDS OF
FOUR-FOOTED AND WINGED
VERMIN,
IN A METHOD HITHERTO UNATTEMPTED:
Calculated for the Use of the GENTLEMAN, the FARMER, and the WARRENER;
LONDON:
Printed for J. WALKER, No. 44,...
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— End of The universal directory for taking alive and destroying rats —
Book Information
- Title
- The universal directory for taking alive and destroying rats
- Author(s)
- Smith, Robert (Rat-catcher)
- Language
- English
- Type
- Text
- Release Date
- August 6, 2024
- Word Count
- 24,775 words
- Library of Congress Classification
- SB
- Bookshelves
- Browsing: How To..., Browsing: Nature/Gardening/Animals
- Rights
- Public domain in the USA.
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