The Mediterranean

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 73849 *** BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS. =Austria-Hungary=, including Dalmatia, Bosnia, Bucharest, Belgrade, and Montenegro. With 71 Maps, 77 Plans, and 2 Panoramas. Eleventh edition. 1911 _The Eastern Alps_, including the Bavarian Highlands, Tyrol, Salzburg, Upper and Lower Austria, Styria, Carinthia, and Carniola. With 73 Maps, 16 Plans, and 11 Panoramas. Twelfth edition. 1911 =Belgium and Holland=, including the _Grand-Duchy of Luxembourg_. With 19 Maps and 45 Plans. Fifteenth edition. 1910 =The Dominion of Canada=, with _Newfoundland_ and an Excursion to _Alaska_. With 14 Maps and 12 Plans. Fourth edition. 1922 =Constantinople and Asia Minor=, in German only: _Konstantinopel und Kleinasien, Balkanstaaten, Archipel, Cypern._ Mit 18 Karten und 65 Plänen. 2. Aufl. 1914 =Czechoslovakia=, see _Austria-Hungary_. =Denmark=, see _Norway, Sweden and Denmark_. =Egypt and the Sûdân.= With 22 Maps, 85 Plans, and 55 Vignettes. Seventh edition. 1914 =England=, see _Great Britain_. =France=: _Paris_ and its Environs, with Routes from London to Paris. With 66 Maps and Plans. Nineteenth edition. 1924 _Northern France_ from Belgium and the English Channel to the Loire excluding Paris and its Environs. With 16 Maps and 55 Plans. Fifth edition. 1909 _Southern France_ from the Loire to the Pyrenees, Auvergne, the Cévennes, the French Alps, the Rhone Valley, Provence, the French Riviera, and _Corsica_. With 42 Maps, 63 Plans, and 1 Panorama. Sixth edition. 1914 _Algeria_ and _Tunisia_, see _The Mediterranean_. =Germany=: _Berlin_ and its Environs. With 30 Maps and Plans. Sixth edition. 1923 _Northern Germany_, excluding the Rhineland. With 165 Maps and Plans. Seventeenth edition. 1925 _Southern Germany_ (Wurtemberg and Bavaria). With 37 Maps and 50 Plans. Twelfth edition. 1914 _The Rhine_ including the Moselle, the Volcanic Eifel, the Taunus, the Odenwald, the Vosges Mountains, the Black Forest, etc. With 128 Maps and Plans. Seventeenth edition. 1911 =Great Britain.= _England, Wales, and Scotland._ With 28 Maps, 65 Plans, and a Panorama. Seventh edition. 1910 _London_ and its Environs. With 45 Maps and Plans. Eighteenth edition. 1923 =Greece=, the _Greek Islands_, and an Excursion to _Crete_. With 16 Maps, 30 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens. Fourth edition. 1909 =Holland=, see _Belgium and Holland_. =India=, in German only: _Indien_, Ceylon, Vorderindien, Birma, die malayische Halbinsel, Siam, Java. Mit 22 Karten, 33 Plänen und 8 Grundrissen. 1914 Italy: _I. Northern Italy_, including Leghorn, Florence, Ravenna, and Routes through France, Switzerland, and Austria. With 36 Maps, 45 Plans, and a Panorama. Fourteenth edition. 1913 _II. Central Italy and Rome._ With 19 Maps, 55 Plans and Views, and the Arms of the Popes since 1417. Fifteenth edition. 1909 _III. Southern Italy and Sicily_, including Malta, Sardinia, Tunis, and Corfu. With 64 Maps and Plans. Sixteenth edition. 1912 _Italy from the Alps to Naples._ With 25 Maps and 52 Plans and Sketches. Second edition. 1909 =The Mediterranean.= Seaports and Sea Routes, including Madeira, the Canary Islands, the Coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. With 38 Maps and 49 Plans. 1911 =Norway, Sweden, and Denmark=, with Excursions to _Iceland_ and _Spitzbergen_. With 104 Maps and Plans. Tenth edition. 1912 =Palestine and Syria=, including the principal routes through _Mesopotamia_ and _Babylonia_. With 21 Maps, 56 Plans, and a Panorama of Jerusalem. Fifth edition. 1912 =Portugal=, see _Spain and Portugal_. =Riviera=, see _Southern France_. =Russia=, with Teheran, Port Arthur, and Peking. With 40 Maps and 78 Plans. 1914 _Manual of the Russian Language_, with Vocabulary and List of Phrases. 1914 =Scotland=, see _Great Britain_. =Spain and Portugal=, with Excursions to _Tangier_ and the _Balearic Islands_. With 20 Maps and 59 Plans. Fourth edition. 1913 =Sweden=, see _Norway, Sweden, and Denmark_. =Switzerland=, together with Chamonix and the Italian Lakes. With 80 Maps, 21 Plans, and 14 Panoramas. Twenty-sixth edition. 1922 =Tyrol=, see _The Eastern Alps_. =The United States=, with Excursions to _Mexico_, _Cuba_, _Porto Rico_ and _Alaska_. With 33 Maps and 48 Plans. Fourth edition. 1909 =Wales=, see _Great Britain_. THE MEDITERRANEAN [Illustration: THE MEDITERRANEAN] THE MEDITERRANEAN SEAPORTS AND SEA ROUTES INCLUDING MADEIRA, THE CANARY ISLANDS, THE COAST OF MOROCCO, ALGERIA, AND TUNISIA HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY KARL BAEDEKER WITH 38 MAPS AND 49 PLANS LEIPZIG: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN, 1 ADELPHI TERRACE, W.C. NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, 153 FIFTH AVE. 1911 _All Rights Reserved._ ‘Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all.’ PREFACE. The present _Handbook to the Mediterranean_ describes the chief routes along the Mediterranean coasts. In his endeavour to unite within a single volume the chief points of interest in so vast a region the Editor has naturally been confronted by peculiar difficulties. These points are so numerous that little space could be afforded for more subordinate matters, so that many details have necessarily been omitted. Again as regards the selection of routes, and of places to be described, opinions frequently differ. The Editor ventures, however, to hope that on the whole he has satisfied the requirements of most of his readers. As many of the regions which are here grouped historically and geographically[1] have already been treated of in several of his other Handbooks, the Editor would respectfully refer the traveller to these for fuller details[2]. The new subjects comprise Madeira and the Canary Islands, the coast of Morocco, and Algeria and Tunisia, the materials for describing which have been collected, in the course of much travel, by several of the Editor’s friends and fellow-workers. The chief Author of the German edition, which appeared in 1909, was _Dr. F. Propping_, of Godesberg on the Rhine, who personally visited most of the places described. The present English edition has been prepared by the Editor’s old friend, emeritus _Professor John Kirkpatrick_, formerly of Edinburgh University, who fifty years ago (1861) translated the Handbook for the Rhine, and thus introduced ‘Baedeker’s guidebooks’ to the English public. In bringing the information contained in the new Mediterranean volume up to date the Editor has received valuable aid from British and United States consuls and ministers, and from other authorities, who have shown the utmost courtesy and willingness to assist. To all of these the Editor expresses his grateful acknowledgments. Many readers will be interested also in the geographical sketch by the late _Professor Theobald Fischer_ (d. 1910), one of the great authorities on the Mediterranean coast-lands. Footnote 1: The volume contains six separable Sections. _First_: Introduction; From England to the Mediterranean by the Portuguese Coast; Madeira and the Canary Islands (pp. i-xxxvi and 1–48).—_Second_: Andalusia; Morocco (pp. 49–110).—_Third_: Sea Routes in the W. Mediterranean (pp. 111–166).—_Fourth_: Algeria (pp. 167–318).—_Fifth_: Tunisia (pp. 319–394).—_Sixth_: Sea Routes in the E. Mediterranean; the Black Sea (p. 395 to the end of the volume). Footnote 2: Comp. for the W. Mediterranean _Baedeker’s_ ‘Southern France’, ‘Northern Italy’, ‘Central Italy and Rome’, ‘Southern Italy, Sicily, and Sardinia’, ‘Italy from the Alps to Naples’, and ‘Spain and Portugal’; for Trieste and Dalmatia, ‘Austria-Hungary’; for the E. Mediterranean, ‘Egypt’, ‘Palestine and Syria’, ‘Greece’, and ‘Konstantinopel und Kleinasien’ (at present in German only); for the Black Sea, ‘Russland’ or ‘Russie’. Special care has been bestowed on the MAPS and PLANS with which the Handbook is furnished. Several of these are based on materials hitherto unpublished, and others have been locally revised and improved for the special benefit of the Handbook. In the case of Algeria and Tunisia the French spelling has been adopted in the letter-press as well as in the maps[3]. Footnote 3: Note, however, that in the letter-press the English _j_ is used in preference to the French _dj_ (as in _jebel_, mountain), and that the German or Italian _u_ is preferred to the French _ou_ or the English _oo_ (as in _sûk_, market). So too, as a general rule, all the other vowel-sounds in the proper names follow the Italian pronunciation. HOTELS. As in all his Handbooks the Editor has taken the utmost care to recommend none but comfortable and respectable hotels. From this, as from all his other Handbooks, advertisements, direct and indirect, are absolutely excluded. Persons calling themselves agents for Baedeker’s Handbooks are impostors and should be handed over to the police. As many matters treated of in the Handbook are liable to frequent change and as, in the Orient particularly, trustworthy sources of information are too often lacking, the Editor will warmly appreciate any communications with which travellers may kindly favour him. CONTENTS. Page Introduction xiii I. From England to the Mediterranean by the Portuguese Coast. Route 1. From England viâ Oporto and Lisbon to Gibraltar or Tangier (Marseilles and Genoa) 1 2. Lisbon 6 II. Madeira and the Canary Islands. 3. Madeira 17 4. The Canary Islands 28 III. Andalusia. 5. Gibraltar 52 6. From Gibraltar to Seville 56 7. Seville 59 8. From Seville to Cordova 68 9. From Cordova viâ Bobadilla to Granada 72 10. Granada 73 11. From Granada viâ Bobadilla to Málaga 88 IV. Morocco. 12. Tangier 98 13. From Tangier to Tetuán (Ceuta) 102 14. From Tangier to Mogador by Sea 104 V. Sea Routes in the W. Mediterranean. 15. From Gibraltar to Genoa 111 16. From Gibraltar to Naples 118 17. From (Lisbon) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles 119 18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran 123 19. From Marseilles to Oran 126 20. From Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona 126 21. From Marseilles to Tunis 128 22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea 130 23. From Marseilles to Naples 132 24. From Genoa to Naples 134 25. From Genoa to Tunis viâ Leghorn and Cagliari 142 26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo 146 27. From Naples to Syracuse (Malta, Tunis, Tripoli) viâ Messina and Catania 154 VI. Algeria. 28. Oran 175 29. From Oran to Tlemcen 185 30. Tlemcen 187 31. From Tlemcen to Nemours viâ Lalla-Marnia 197 32. From Oran to Beni-Ounif de Figuig (Colomb-Béchar) viâ Damesme and Perrégaux 199 33. From Oran to Algiers 206 34. Algiers 217 35. From Algiers to Tipaza and Cherchell 236 36. From Algiers to Cape Matifou and to Aïn-Taya viâ Maison-Carrée 247 37. From Algiers to Bougie viâ Beni-Mansour 249 38. From Algiers to Tizi-Ouzou. From Camp-du-Maréchal to Tigzirt 252 39. From Tizi-Ouzou viâ Fort-National to Maillot or Tazmalt 256 40. From Fort-National viâ Azazga to Bougie 260 41. Bougie 262 42. From Bougie through the Chabet el-Akra to Sétif 265 43. From Algiers to Constantine viâ Beni-Mansour, Sétif, and El-Guerrah 269 44. From Constantine to Biskra viâ El-Guerrah and Batna 274 45. From Batna viâ Lambèse to Timgad 286 46. Constantine 297 47. From Constantine to Philippeville 303 48. From Constantine to Bona viâ Duvivier 306 49. From Constantine or Bona viâ Duvivier to Souk-Ahras (Tebessa, Tunis) 312 50. From Souk-Ahras to Tebessa 313 VII. Tunisia. 51. From (Constantine, Bona) Souk-Ahras to Tunis 325 52. Tunis 329 53. Carthage 343 54. From Tunis to Bizerta 351 55. From Tunis to Dougga (Le Kef) 354 56. From Tunis to Le Kef and Kalaâ-Djerda 358 57. From Tunis to Susa 363 58. From Susa to Kairwan 370 59. From Susa to Sfax 378 60. From Sfax to Metlaoui viâ Gafsa 383 61. From Metlaoui to the Djerid 386 62. From (Sfax) Graïba to Djerba viâ Gabes and Médenine 388 VIII. Sea Routes in the E. Mediterranean. 63. From Tunis to Malta (Syracuse) 396 64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta 404 65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna 412 66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete 415 67. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said 417 68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi 418 69. Alexandria 431 70. Port Said 436 71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo 437 72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut (Smyrna, Constantinople) viâ Jaffa 466 73. From Jaffa to Jerusalem 470 74. Beirut. Excursion to Damascus 481 75. From Beirut to Smyrna (and Constantinople) 489 76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (and Constantinople) 491 77. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Athens (and Constantinople) 493 78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (and Constantinople) viâ Brindisi and Patras 496 79. Athens 502 80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople 529 81. Constantinople 536 IX. The Black Sea. 82. From Constantinople to Constantza 561 83. From Constantinople to Odessa 563 84. From Odessa to Batum 568 85. From Batum to Constantinople 571 Maps. (The Maps and Plans are oriented in the usual way, with the North at the top, unless otherwise indicated.) 1. General Map of the Mediterranean (1 : 8,250,000) before the title-page. 2. Environs of Lisbon (1 : 250,000), p. 14. 3. Madeira (1 : 400,000), p. 17. 4. Environs of Funchal (1 : 120,000), p. 21. 5. The Canary Islands (1 : 7,500,000), p. 28. 6. Teneriffe (1 : 450,000), p. 28. 7. Environs of Puerto Orotava (1 : 100,000), p. 28. 8. Environs of Las Palmas (1 : 250,000), p. 46. 9. Andalusia and the Straits of Gibraltar (1 : 2,750,000), p. 49. 10. Environs of Tangier (1 : 40,000), p. 98. 11. Environs of Naples (1 : 500,000), p. 141. 12. Straits of Messina (1 : 200,000), p. 155. 13. Environs of Syracuse (1 : 50,000), p. 162. 14. Algeria and Tunisia (1 : 8,250,000), W. part, p. 167. 15. Environs of Oran (1 : 150,000), p. 175. 16. Environs of Tlemcen (1 : 50,000), p. 187. 17. Environs of Blida (1 : 250,000), p. 213. 18. Nearer Environs of Algiers (1 : 100,000), p. 233. 19. Remoter Environs of Algiers (1 : 500,000), p. 233. 20. Environs of Bougie (1 : 50,000), p. 262. 21. Environs of Biskra (1 : 100,000), p. 279. 22. Environs of Lambèse and Timgad (1 : 500,000), p. 289. 23. Environs of Philippeville (1 : 150,000), p. 304. 24. Environs of Bona (1 : 200,000), p. 309. 25. Algeria and Tunisia (1 : 8,250,000), E. part, p. 319. 26. Environs of Tunis (1 : 250,000), p. 338. 27. Environs of Susa (1 : 50,000), p. 366. 28. Environs of Sfax (1 : 50,000), p. 380. 29. The Island of Malta (1 : 320,000), p. 399. 30. Environs of Tripoli in Barbary (1 : 80,000), p. 406. 31. The Lagoons of Venice (1 : 340,100), p. 419. 32. Environs of Cairo (1 : 250,000), p. 458. 33. The Island of Corfu (1 : 300,000), p. 497. 34. Environs of the Town of Corfu (1 : 60,000), p. 497. 35. Environs of Athens (1 : 150,000), p. 528. 36. Environs of Constantinople (1 : 140,000), p. 537. 37. The Bosporus (1 : 200,000), p. 557. 38. Environs of Yalta (1 : 166,000), p. 569. * * * * * Plans. Page 1. Alexandria (1 : 18,000) 431 2. Algiers (1 : 20,000) 217 3. Athens (1 : 10,000) 503 4. Beirut, General Plan (1 : 25,000) 481 5. Beirut, Old Town (1 : 10,000) 481 6. Biskra (1 : 12,000) 279 7. Blida (1 : 12,000) 213 8. Bona (1 : 15,000) 309 9. Bougie (1 : 15,000) 262 10. Cairo (1 : 12,300) 439 11. Carthage (1 : 25,000) 343 12. Catania (1 : 16,700) 160 13. Constantine (1 : 14,000) 297 14. Constantinople (1 : 20,000) 537 15. Cordova (1 : 15,000) 68 16. Town of Corfu (1 : 15,000) 497 17. Funchal (1 : 30,000) 21 18. Genoa (1 : 10,000) 113 19. Gibraltar (1 : 25,000) 53 20. Granada (1 : 8700) 73 21. Jerusalem (1 : 8350) 471 22. Kairwan (1 : 12,000) 372 23. Lisbon (1 : 15,000) 7 24. Málaga (1 : 13,000) 89 25. Marseilles (1 : 14,000) 119 26. Naples (1 : 20,000) 135 27. Odessa (1 : 35,000) 565 28. Oran (1 : 18,000) 175 29. Palermo (1 : 13,000) 147 30. Las Palmas (1 : 15,000) 44 31. Philippeville (1 : 15,000) 304 32. Port Said, Harbour (1 : 50,000) 437 33. Port Said, Town (1 : 25,000) 437 34. Puerto de la Luz and Las Palmas (1 : 60,000) 46 35. Santa Cruz de Tenerife (1 : 25,000) 33 36. Seville (1 : 10,000) 59 37. Sfax (1 : 14,000) 380 38. Smyrna (1 : 18,000) 531 39. Susa (1 : 12,000) 366 40. Tangier (1 : 8000) 98 41. Timgad (1 : 6000) 289 42. Tlemcen (1 : 12,000) 187 43. Trebizond (1 : 30,000) 573 44. Trieste (1 : 16,700) 425 45. Tripoli in Barbary (1 : 12,500) 406 46. Tunis (1 : 16,000) 329 47. Valletta (1 : 64,000) 399 48. Venice (1 : 12,500) 419 49. Yalta (1 : 25,200) 569 * * * * * Abbreviations. Hôt., Hot. = hotel. Alb. = albergo (hotel). Restaur. = restaurant. R. = room with one bed, usually incl. light and attendance. B. = breakfast (coffee, etc.). déj. = déjeuner, hot lunch. D. = dinner. pens. = pension, board incl. R. unless contrary stated. rfmts. = refreshments. omn. = omnibus. N., S., E., W. = north, northern, south, southern, etc. r. = right, l. = left. M. = mile; sq. M. = square mile; ft. = foot, feet; yd. = yard, etc. min. = minute; hr. = hour. R. = route. Pl. = plan. dr., l. = drachme, lepta. fr., c. = franc, centime; Ital. lira, centesimo. K, _h_ = krone, heller (Austrian currency). _l._, _s._, _d._ = pound sterling, shilling, pence, _g._ = guinea. mej. = mejidieh. p., c. = peseta, centimo. pias., mill. = piastre, millième. s. pias. = silver piastre. rs. = reis (plur. of real; comp. p. 6) roub., cop. = rouble, copeck. comp. = compare. adm. = admission, admittance. Asterisks (*) denote objects of special interest and hotels that are believed to be worthy of special commendation. The number of ft. (1 Engl. ft. = 0.3048 mètre; 1 mètre = 3.281 Engl. ft. or about 3 ft. 3⅓ in.) given after the name of a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of M. (1 Engl. mile = 1.6093 kilomètres; 1 kilomètre = 0.6214 M.) placed before the principal places of a route indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. * * * * * International Hotel Telegraphic Code. The international association of hotel-keepers has agreed on the following code: _Alba_, room with single bed; _albaduo_, room with double bed; _arab_, room with two beds; _abec_, room with three beds; _belab_, two rooms and two beds; _birac_, two rooms and three beds; _bonad_, two rooms and four beds; _ciroc_, three rooms and three beds; _carid_, three rooms and four beds; _calde_, three rooms and five beds; _caduf_, three rooms and six beds; _casag_, three rooms and seven beds; _danid_, four rooms and four beds; _dalme_, four rooms and five beds; _danof_, four rooms and six beds; _dalag_, four rooms and seven beds; _dirich_, four rooms and eight beds; _durbi_, four rooms and nine beds; _kind_, child’s bed; _sal_, saloon, private sitting-room; _bat_, private bathroom; _serv_, servant’s room. The class of room may be indicated by _best_, _bon_, or _plain_. Day and hour of arrival must be notified (_granmatin_ is midnight to 7 a.m., _matin_ is 7–12, _sera_ 12–7, and _gransera_ 7 to midnight), and also duration of stay (_pass_ means one night, _stop_ means several days, but is not binding). Name and address of applicant must be given; if prevented from coming, ‘_cancel_‘, with his signature, suffices. * * * * * Bibliography. ‘Mediterranean Winter Resorts’ by _E. Reynolds-Ball_ (6th ed., London, 1908; price 6_s._) although far from exhaustive, contains much useful and practical information. The art of the Orient is admirably treated of in the ‘Manuel d’Art Musulman’ by _H. Saladin_ and _G. Migeon_ (Paris, 1907; 30 fr.). Among excellent German books are _Theob. Fischer’s_ ‘Mittelmeerbilder’ (2 vols., Leipzig, 1906, 1908; each 6 marks), and _A. Philippson’s_ ‘Mittelmeergebiet’ (Leipzig, 1907; 7 marks). Books on Algeria, see p. 175; on Athens, see p. 508; on Cairo, see p. 444; on the Canary Islands, see p. 32; on Carthage, see p. 343; on Constantinople, see p. 542; on Cordova, see p. 69; on Granada and the Alhambra, see pp. 65, 80; on Jerusalem, see p. 473; on Madeira, see p. 20; on Morocco, see pp. 97, 98; on Seville, see p. 61; on Tebessa, see p. 315; on Timgad, see p. 289; on Tunisia, see p. 325. * * * * * INTRODUCTION. Page I. Season and Plan of Tour. Health xiii II. Money, Passport, Custom House xvi III. Steamboats xvii IV. Intercourse with Orientals xxv The Mediterranean Sea and adjoining Lands, a geographical Sketch by _Theobald Fischer_ xxvii I. Season and Plan of Tour. Health. SEASON OF TOUR. The mildness of the climate (p. xxxv) makes travelling pleasant in the Mediterranean lands at almost any season. Even in the height of summer travellers who can stand a little heat will find residence in many of the islands and seaside resorts quite agreeable. Winter begins here much later and ends much earlier than in Northern or Central Europe, but until the end of March few regions are quite exempt from wintry days and falls of snow. March is considered also the windiest month in the year on the Mediterranean. For the Portuguese coast, Andalusia, and Northern Morocco (Tangier) the best seasons are from the middle of March to the middle of May and the months of October and November. Granada, which lies high, is suitable for a prolonged stay from April till the middle of June. Seville and Cordova are often uncomfortably cold in December and January owing to lack of heating appliances. At Lisbon and Tangier winter is the season of the fertilizing rains, which often last till the middle of March. With regard to the best season for Madeira and the Canary Islands, see pp. 19, 32. The weather is generally bright and genial in Algeria, Tunisia, and Tripolitania in late autumn, till the end of November, and also in March and April, though less settled. Winter is a dry season only on the E. coast of Tunisia and in the Sahara, but is sometimes cool and windy (see also pp. 170, 172, 321). It is still hot in October in Sicily, in Barbary, and in Egypt, where the sirocco (p. 321) is specially disagreeable in the early autumn, while health is endangered by malaria (p. xvi). Of all the Mediterranean regions Egypt alone offers a dry, settled, and genial climate in winter. The traveller on the Eastern Mediterranean who wishes to avoid extremes of cold and heat should make his first stay at Cairo in January or February, start for the Syrian coast at the end of February or early in March, proceed to Palestine and Damascus after March has commenced, and visit Asia Minor and Greece in April, and Constantinople and the Black Sea in May. In autumn, from the end of September onwards, the above order should be reversed. PLAN OF TOUR. The traveller is advised to draw up a careful programme of his tour before starting. All the places described in the Handbook may be reached by steamer, or partly overland, at any time of the year, but during the winter season (from about the end of October to the middle of May) much greater facilities are offered by excursion-steamers (see pp. xviii, 1, 2), circular tickets, and combined tickets. American travellers may sail direct from New York or Boston to some of the Mediterranean ports (see p. xviii). Travellers from Great Britain may start from London, Liverpool, Southampton, or Dover, or if they dread a long sea-voyage may proceed overland to Marseilles, to Genoa, to Naples, to Brindisi, to Venice, or to Trieste (comp. p. xxiv), and begin their Mediterranean tour from one of these points. Some may prefer the overland route to Spain and Gibraltar, while others again may find it more convenient to travel all the way to Constantinople (Orient Express), to Constantza (Ostend-Vienna Express), or to Odessa (viâ Vienna and Cracow) by railway, and thence explore the Mediterranean from east to west. The railway routes will be found in ‘Bradshaw’s Continental Railway Guide’ or in the German ‘Reichskursbuch’. For the ‘trains de luxe’ services tickets must be obtained from the International Sleeping Car Co. (London, 20 Cockspur St., S.W.; Paris, 3 Place de l’Opéra; New York, 281 Fifth Ave.; Berlin, 69 Unter den Linden). For the sea-routes, see p. xvii; for particulars application should be made to the various companies or their handbooks consulted. Excursion, circular, and combined tickets are issued by Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, Ludgate Circus, and by other tourist-agents. It may be noted here that the ‘pleasure-cruises’ organized by many of the companies offer great attractions at moderate cost, but at the almost entire sacrifice of personal independence, while the fellow-passengers with whom one is associated for weeks may not always be congenial. As a general rule it is pleasanter and less expensive to travel with one or more companions than alone. Apart from hotel charges and railway and steamboat fares, the cost for two or three persons is often no greater than for one. Moreover, when off the beaten track the traveller thus escapes from monotonous and monosyllabic conversation with native guides or drivers (comp. pp. xxv, xxvi), and in case of illness or accident he is far more certain of obtaining assistance and relief. The most useful language in most parts of the Mediterranean is French. In Portugal, Madeira, and the Canary Islands English is much spoken, in Egypt it is the leading language. Italian is very useful in Tunisia, on the coast of Tripolitania and Barca, in Malta, throughout the Levant, in Greece, and at Constantinople. On the other hand a slight knowledge of Arabic will be found most useful throughout the whole of N. Africa, from Morocco to Egypt, and in Palestine and Syria. Some HINTS ON HEALTH may be of advantage to the inexperienced traveller from the north. As a rule an overcoat or extra wraps should be put on at sundown, though they may often be dispensed with an hour or two later. When heated with walking the traveller should not rest in the shade. In hot climates like those of Egypt and the Sahara he should never remove his pith-helmet or other headgear in the sun. Grey spectacles or grey veils shield the eyes alike from the glare of the sun and from dust. Sunshades also are very desirable in hot weather. As a rule it is advisable to stay within doors during the heat of the day. On the other hand many places on the Mediterranean are cold in winter, Lower Egypt and Cairo being no exceptions. Steamboat passengers, too, will generally find warm clothing very desirable between October and the middle of May. An extra coat or shawl should be donned in museums, churches, mosques, and other buildings with stone pavement, as the air is often very chilly. When engaging rooms visitors should insist on a southern aspect, which is almost essential for the delicate and highly desirable for the robust. In every case, especially if the rooms do not face due south, they should have a fireplace or else central heating. In the Mediterranean regions, where many of the plainer hotels have stone or brick floors, carpets are essential to comfort. With regard to diet also a few general hints may be serviceable. Oysters, fish, salads, and tinned meats should be absolutely avoided. Raw fruit, except perhaps oranges and grapes, should be partaken of very sparingly. Ices and iced drinks also are apt to be upsetting. The contents of siphons, lemonade, and other ‘refreshing beverages’ are not unfrequently composed of polluted water. The safest liquids are boiled water, natural mineral waters, tea, coffee, good red wine, and, in moderation, sound English or German beer. Fairly good cognac or even whiskey may be obtained almost everywhere, but for the time-honoured ‘soda’ or ‘potash’ it is safer to substitute boiled or mineral water. Colds, errors in diet, malaria, and over-exertion are the chief sources of the sharp attacks of illness to which even the hardiest travellers from the north are liable in the ‘sunny south’. Sunstroke is another danger. Against all these the traveller requires to be more on his guard than at home, where his nerves and his digestion are much less liable to be overtaxed. Care and moderation in sight-seeing and touring are therefore hardly less important than attention to diet. Before the journey is begun a supply of a few simple remedies (see below) may be prepared with the advice of the traveller’s physician. In cases of serious illness one of the properly qualified doctors mentioned in the text should be consulted. Diarrhoea, which may develop into dysentery, one of the commonest complaints, generally results from catching cold or from eating unwholesome food. The patient should first take a slight aperient and afterwards several doses of bismuth. The diet should be arrowroot (which should always accompany the traveller), rice or some other farinaceous food, and milk; fruit, meat, fatty substances, and alcohol should be avoided. In obstinate cases a change of climate is sometimes the only remedy. Sprains are best treated with cold compresses; the injured part should be tightly bandaged and given perfect rest. In the case of a snake bite or scorpion sting the wound should be immediately treated with ammonia, or better still, cauterized. Sunstroke is not common in winter, but may easily occur as late as November or as early as April. The usual remedies are rest and shade; cold appliances are used for the head and neck; in case of high temperature these should be iced. The best protection for the head is either a pith-helmet, or a tall perforated straw-hat, with several folds of gauze round it and hanging down over the back of the neck. When the eyes are irritated with glare or dust frequent washing with a weak boracic or zinc lotion affords relief (comp. also p. xv). Lastly a few simple and well-known remedies, most of which may be obtained in a tabloid form, may be mentioned for other common ailments: cascara sagrada, castor-oil, ‘Tamar Indien’, or Epsom salts for constipation; a zinc or starch dusting-powder for chafed sores due to riding; tincture of arnica, or Elliman’s embrocation, antiseptic wool, collodion, and sticking-plaster, for bruises and wounds; ammonia (sal-ammoniac) or other antidote (muscatol) to stings or bites; disinfectants, carbolic acid, insect-powder; chlorodyne for neuralgia; quinine for cases of fever. Fever, be it noted, especially in malarious regions (Sardinia, Sicily, Algeria, Tunisia, Greece) is propagated by mosquitoes, especially by the female of the Anopheles Claviger. Light curtains round the beds should therefore be used to ward off the attacks of these troublesome insects. At dusk, and at night when the room is lighted, the windows should always be carefully closed. When a bite has been received the inflamed part should be at once rubbed with ammonia. It should, however, be added, in order to reassure the timid or nervous traveller, that few of these elaborate precautions are necessary except for enterprising explorers who often leave the beaten track or whose tour extends beyond the usual winter season. II. Money, Passport, Custom House. MONEY. A small sum of money to start with should be taken in English or French gold, but large sums should always be carried in the form of circular notes, care being observed to keep the notes and the ‘letter of indication’ quite separate. These notes are issued by the London and the Scottish banks and by Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (Ludgate Circus). The cheques issued by the American Express Companies, by the American Bankers Association, and by the International Mercantile Marine Co. are also convenient. Wherever the traveller lands he will find an ample supply of the small change of the country very needful. PASSPORTS are not absolutely necessary, except in Turkey and in Russia; but consuls, and sometimes bankers, require more convincing proof of identity than a visiting-card. Passports must be shown at the post-offices also in order to obtain delivery of registered letters. Passports may be procured in England direct from the Passport Department of the _Foreign Office_, Whitehall (fee 2 _s._), or through any tourist-agent.—In the United States they are obtained from the _Bureau of Citizenship_, State Department, Washington, D.C.—Travellers may generally get their passports _visés_ for Turkey or Russia through one of the steamboat-companies or by applying to their consulate at one of the chief seaports, if they have omitted to take this step before leaving home. The CUSTOM HOUSE EXAMINATION at the various seaports and frontiers is seldom very rigorous; but the traveller should be careful to declare every new article not intended for personal use; and he should note particularly that cigars, tobacco, and cigarettes, weapons and ammunition (the import of the last four articles being entirely prohibited in Turkey), playing-cards, matches, etc. are liable to a heavy duty almost everywhere. These should therefore be carried in very small quantities or dispensed with altogether. It is rarely worth while carrying large supplies of any dutiable article, as the formalities are tedious and the expenses heavy. In Turkey a second custom-house examination of luggage takes place when the traveller leaves the country, a small duty being levied on exports, while the export of antiques without the authority of government is forbidden. In Spain, Italy, and Greece also permission must be obtained to carry away works of art. Persons who have made large purchases, or have a superfluity of baggage to send home, had better employ a goods-agent. III. Steamboats. All the leading steamboat-companies are mentioned in the Handbook in connection with the different routes. The great Oriental, Australian, and other liners, of 5–12,000 tons’ burden and upwards, touch at very few Mediterranean ports (Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, Naples, Port Said). Travellers desirous of visiting the Portuguese coast, Madeira and the Canary Islands, Algiers, Sardinia, Sicily, Tunisia, Athens, Constantinople, and many other places of interest must generally be content with smaller and often very inferior vessels. The sections of the following brief summary of the chief lines correspond with those into which the Handbook is divided. FROM THE UNITED STATES TO THE MEDITERRANEAN.—_White Star Line._ From Boston about every three weeks to Gibraltar, Algiers, Naples, and Genoa, in 14–15 days. From New York at irregular intervals to Gibraltar, Naples, and Genoa, in 15–16 days. From Genoa viâ Naples to New York or Boston at irregular intervals. Fares: 1st cl. from New York to Gibraltar, Genoa, or Naples, from 16_l._, according to steamer; from Boston to Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, or Naples, from 16_l._ 10_s._; from New York to Villefranche, from 19_l._ 10_s._; 2nd cl. 13_l._ _Hamburg-American Line._ From New York at irregular intervals to Gibraltar, Algiers, Naples (or Palermo), and Genoa, in 13 days, and vice versâ. Fares: 1st cl. from 17_l._ 10_s._, 2nd cl. 13_l._ _North German Lloyd Line._ From New York on most Sat. to Gibraltar, Algiers (not in summer), Naples, and Genoa, in 13 days, returning on most Thursdays. Fares: 1st cl. from $87½, 2nd cl. from $65. _Cunard Line._ From New York at irregular intervals to Gibraltar, Genoa, Naples, Trieste, and Fiume, in about 20 days, returning viâ Palermo, Naples, and Gibraltar. Fares to Trieste or Fiume, 1st cl. from 16_l._ 10_s._; to Gibraltar, Genoa, or Naples from 14_l._ 10_s._; 2nd cl. fares from 12_l._ Among the regular pleasure-cruises from the United States to the Mediterranean may be mentioned those from Boston organized by the _Bureau of University Travel_; for excursion-steamers from England to the Mediterranean, see pp. 1, 2. (1). PORTUGUESE COAST (R. 1). _Pacific Line_ from Liverpool (31 James St.) fortnightly, for La Rochelle-Pallice (for Bordeaux), Corunna, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and St. Vincent (Cape Verde), and thence to S. America. Passengers for Madeira, the Canary Islands, and the Mediterranean must of course tranship at Lisbon or St. Vincent. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, see p. xix. _Nederland Royal Mail Steamers_ (London office, 2 King William St., E.C.) and _Rotterdam Lloyd_, both fortnightly from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, etc. _Yeoward Bros. Line_, see p. xix. _Hall Line_, see p. xx. _Booth Line_ thrice monthly from Liverpool (office in the Tower Building) to Havre, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and Madeira. _Ellerman Line_ weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon and Oporto. _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, see p. xx. _German East African Line_ (London office, 14 St. Mary Axe, E.C.) once every three weeks from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, Naples, etc. _Hamburg-American Line_ (London office, 22 Cockspur St., S.W.) and _Hamburg & South American Co._ several times monthly from Southampton, calling occasionally at Lisbon. _Royal Holland Lloyd_ monthly from Dover to Boulogne, Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, etc. _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (Philippines Line) monthly from Liverpool to Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, etc. (2). MADEIRA AND CANARY ISLANDS (RR. 3, 4). _Union Castle Line_ (London office, 3 Fenchurch St., E.C.) weekly from Southampton to Madeira; also fortnightly from London and Southampton touching alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, and Teneriffe. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._ (London office, 18 Moorgate St., E.C.) fortnightly from Southampton to Vigo, Lisbon, and Madeira; also round voyages from London, see p. xx. _Peninsular & Oriental Branch Service_ monthly from London (office, 3 East India Ave., E.C.) to Las Palmas. _Booth Line_, see p. xviii. _Bucknall Line_ monthly from London (office, 23 Leadenhall St., E.C.) to Teneriffe. _Aberdeen (Thompson’s) Line_ monthly from London (office, 7 Billiter Square, E.C.) and Plymouth to Teneriffe. _Aberdeen (Rennie’s) Line_ about once every ten days from London (office, 4 East India Ave., E.C.) to Las Palmas and Teneriffe alternately. _German East African Line_ (London office, see p. xviii) once every three weeks from Southampton for Las Palmas and Teneriffe. _Woermann Line_ monthly from Dover to Las Palmas and Teneriffe. _New Zealand Line_ (London office, 138 Leadenhall St., E.C.) and _Shaw, Savill, & Albion Line_ (London office, 34 Leadenhall St., E.C.), each monthly from London and Plymouth to Teneriffe. _Yeoward Bros. Line_ weekly from Liverpool (office, 27 Stanley St.) to Lisbon, Teneriffe, and Grand Canary, calling on alternate voyages at Madeira. _Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines_ fortnightly from Liverpool, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe. _Natal Line_ fortnightly from London (office, 14 St. Mary Axe, E.C.) to Las Palmas. _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_ twice monthly, and _Empreza Insulana_ once monthly from Lisbon to Madeira. (3). GIBRALTAR AND ANDALUSIA (RR. 1, 5, 6 b, 11). _Peninsular & Oriental Co._ once weekly from London (office, 122 Leadenhall St., E.C.) to Gibraltar, etc. Comp. also p. xx. _Orient Royal Line_ fortnightly from London (office, 5 Fenchurch St., E.C.) to Gibraltar, etc. _North German Lloyd_ fortnightly from Southampton (London office, 26 Cockspur St., S.W.). _Anchor Line_ almost weekly from Liverpool (office, 17 Water St.) or Glasgow (Anchor Line Buildings) to Gibraltar. _Hall Line_ weekly from London (office, 31 Crutched Friars, E.C.) to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Málaga, and Cadiz. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, see below. _Moss Line_ fortnightly (office, 31 James St.) and _Papayanni Line_ (office, 22 Water St.) occasionally from Liverpool to Gibraltar. _Vapores Correos de Africa_ from Algeciras to Tangier, Cadiz, and Ceuta. (4). MOROCCO (RR. 13, 14). _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._ fortnightly from London (office, see p. xix) to Gibraltar, Tangier, etc., returning viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira. _Nederland Royal Mail_ and _Rotterdam Lloyd_, see p. xviii. _German East African Line_, see p. xviii. _Peninsular & Oriental Co._ sends ‘Vectis’ or other excursion steamer from London (office, see p. xix) several times in spring and summer to Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Tangier. _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (Canary Line) calls at Tangier (if required also at Casablanca and Mazagan) once a month on the voyage to and from Barcelona. _Bland Line_, small cargo-boats thrice weekly from Gibraltar to Tangier; also steamers from Tangier to Tetuán and Larash. _Oldenburg Portuguese Line_ fortnightly from Tangier to Rabât, Mogador, etc. _Vapores Correos de Africa_ twice monthly from Tangier to Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador. _N. Paquet & Co._ weekly from Tangier to Rabât and Mogador. _Navigation Mixte_ weekly from Tangier for Melilla, Málaga, and Oran. _Hungarian Adria_ monthly from Gibraltar to Tangier and Oran. (5). W. MEDITERRANEAN. From Gibraltar to Genoa (R. 15a):—_White Star Line_ (from New York or Boston) 2–3 times monthly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton) monthly; _Cunard Line_ (from New York) occasionally; _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (from S. America) once monthly. From Gibraltar to Algiers (R. 15b):—_North German Lloyd_ fortnightly; the _Hamburg-American_, the _Austrian Lloyd_, and the _German Levant_, all less regularly; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) to Oran (thence to Algiers by rail). From Gibraltar to Marseilles (R. 17):—_Peninsular & Oriental_ (from London) weekly; _Orient Royal_ (from London) fortnightly. From Gibraltar to Naples (R. 16):—_Orient Royal_ (from London) fortnightly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton) twice, also (from New York) once or twice monthly; _Cunard_ and _White Star_ (from New York or Boston), each two or three times a month; _Hamburg-American_ (from New York) once or twice a month. From Marseilles to Naples (R. 23):—_Orient Royal_ (from London) fortnightly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton) fortnightly; _German East African Line_ once in three weeks; _Messageries Maritimes_ fortnightly; _Hungarian Adria_ (cargo-boats) twice weekly. From Marseilles to Algiers (R. 20):—_Générale Transatlantique_ four times weekly; _Transports Maritimes_, twice weekly; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) weekly, also cargo-boat weekly. From Marseilles to Tunis (R. 21):—_North German Lloyd_ fortnightly (to Goletta only); _Générale Transatlantique_ once weekly (and thence on to Malta), and viâ Bizerta once weekly; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) once weekly, and cargo-boats viâ Bizerta once weekly. From Genoa to Naples (R. 24):—_North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton) two or three times a month; _Hamburg-American_ once or twice monthly; _Cunard_ and _White Star_, each once monthly; _Società Nazionale_ three or four times weekly; _Italian Lloyd_ once, twice, or thrice monthly; _La Veloce_ and _Lloyd Sabaudo_, each once monthly; _Hungarian Adria_ twice weekly. From Genoa to Tunis (R. 25):—_Società Nazionale_ weekly; _North German Lloyd_ fortnightly to Bizerta. From Naples to Palermo (R. 26):—Steamers of the _Ferrovie dello Stato_ daily; _Società Nazionale_ weekly; _Hungarian Adria_ twice weekly; _Lloyd Sabaudo_ monthly. From Palermo to Tunis (R. 26):—_Società Nazionale_ weekly, also small cargo-boats weekly; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), cargo-boats weekly. From Naples to Messina and Syracuse (R. 27):—_Società Nazionale_ thrice weekly to Messina, and once weekly thence to Syracuse; also steamers of the _Ferrovie dello Stato_ weekly from Naples to Messina, and of the _North German Lloyd_ fortnightly from Naples to Catania. From Tunis or Syracuse to Malta (R. 64):—_Società Nazionale_ six times monthly; _Hungarian Adria_ six times weekly. From London to Malta: _Peninsular & Oriental_ usually weekly. From Liverpool to Naples and Malta: _City Line_ about once monthly. (6). STEAMERS TO ALGERIA. From Southampton to Algiers:—_North German Lloyd_ once or twice monthly direct; _Nederland Royal Mail_ fortnightly viâ Lisbon and Tangier. From Marseilles to Oran (R. 19):—_Générale Transatlantique_ twice weekly; _Transports Maritimes_ once, and cargo-boat once weekly; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) once weekly (also weekly steamers from Cette to Oran). From Marseilles to Algiers, see p. xxi. From Gibraltar to Algiers, see p. xx. From Cartagena to Oran (R. 18):—_Générale Transatlantique_ once weekly. From Tangier to Oran (R. 18):—_Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) weekly, also cargo-boats fortnightly; _Hungarian Adria_ once monthly. (7). STEAMERS TO TUNIS. From Algiers to Tunis (R. 22):—_Générale Transatlantique_, coasting cargo-boats, once weekly; _German Levant Line_ two or three times a month; _Hungarian Adria_ once monthly to Tunis direct. Several other lines are available for sections of the route. From Marseilles to Tunis, see p. xxi; from Naples to Palermo, and from Palermo to Tunis, see p. xxi; from Naples to Syracuse, and from Syracuse to Malta and Tunis, see p. xxi. (8). EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN. From Tunis to Malta, see p. xxi. From Tunis to Tripoli (R. 64):—_Società Nazionale_ weekly, and _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) weekly, both coasting. (From Algiers to Tripoli direct or viâ Malta, cargo-steamers of the German Levant Line.) From Tripoli to Malta and Syracuse (R. 64):—_Società Nazionale_ weekly, other boats fortnightly. From Tripoli to Alexandria (R. 65):—_German Levant Line_, cargo-boats, thrice monthly; _Banco di Roma_ fortnightly. From Tripoli to Constantinople (R. 66):—_Società Nazionale_ fortnightly. From Marseilles, Genoa, and Naples to Alexandria (R. 67):—_North German Lloyd_ weekly from Marseilles to Naples and Alexandria; _Messageries Maritimes_ from Marseilles weekly to Alexandria direct; _Società Nazionale_ weekly from Genoa to Leghorn, Naples, and Alexandria. From Venice to Alexandria (R. 68):—_Società Nazionale_ fortnightly, viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi. From Trieste to Alexandria (R. 68):—_Austrian Lloyd_ weekly viâ Brindisi, and weekly viâ Gravosa and Brindisi. Steamers to Port Said (RR. 67, 68):—All the great liners already mentioned and others besides converge at Port Said. Of the companies despatching vessels almost daily from British ports the following are the chief: _Peninsular & Oriental_ (calling at Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Brindisi); _Orient Royal_ and _North German Lloyd_ (calling at Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Naples); _Bibby_ (calling at Marseilles); _City Line_ (calling at Naples and Malta); _British India Line_ (calling occasionally at Marseilles, Genoa, or Naples); _Nederland Royal Mail_ (viâ Genoa); _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (viâ Marseilles); _Queensland Line_; _Japan Mail_ (viâ Marseilles); and _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (viâ Genoa). Steamers to Palestine and Syria (R. 72):—_Khedivial Mail_, _Austrian Lloyd_, _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, _Società Nazionale_, all weekly from Alexandria to Port Said, Jaffa, Haifa, and Beirut; _Messageries Maritimes_ fortnightly from Alexandria and Port Said to Beirut direct, and fortnightly calling at Jaffa; _German Levant_, cargo-boats, twice monthly from Alexandria to Jaffa, Haifa, and Beirut. From Alexandria and Beirut to Smyrna and Constantinople (RR. 72, 75, 76):—_Khedivial Mail_ fortnightly from Alexandria to Port Said, Beirut, Smyrna, and Constantinople; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, similar route, weekly; _Messageries Maritimes_ fortnightly from Beirut; _La Phocéenne_ weekly from Alexandria to Smyrna (Constantinople). Steamers to the Piræus (Athens; RR. 76, 77, 78):—_Khedivial Mail_, _Rumanian Mail_, _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, all weekly from Alexandria to the Piræus; _North German Lloyd_ fortnightly from Marseilles to Genoa, Naples, Catania, and the Piræus; _Messageries Maritimes_ fortnightly from Marseilles to the Piræus; _Società Nazionale_ weekly from Genoa to Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Messina, and the Piræus; _Società Nazionale_ also weekly from Venice to Brindisi, Patras, and the Piræus; _Austrian Lloyd_ weekly from Trieste to Patras and the Piræus; also Greek-Oriental and Thessalian lines of the same company, each weekly from Trieste to the Piræus; _Greek Panhellenios Co._ weekly from Trieste to Patras and the Piræus; _Austro-Americana_, New York line (quickest), weekly from Trieste to Patras (for Athens). From the Piræus (Athens) viâ Smyrna to Constantinople (R. 80):—_Khedivial Mail_ weekly; _North German Lloyd_, _Messageries Maritimes_, both fortnightly; _Austrian Lloyd_ weekly; also _Rumanian Mail_, _Società Nazionale_, and _Austrian Lloyd_ (the three quickest routes), each weekly to Constantinople direct. (9). BLACK SEA. From Constantinople to Constantza (R. 82):—_Rumanian Mail_ (quickest) twice weekly; _Austrian Lloyd_ alternate Fridays and alternate Saturdays; _Società Nazionale_ weekly. From Constantinople to Odessa (R. 83):—_North German Lloyd_ fortnightly; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, direct line, weekly; Syria and Egypt lines fortnightly; Anatolian line fortnightly; _Austrian Lloyd_ fortnightly; _Società Nazionale_ weekly; _Messageries Maritimes_ weekly. From Odessa to Batum (R. 84):—_Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ weekly; _North German Lloyd_ monthly. From Batum to Constantinople (R. 85):—_North German Lloyd_ alternate Saturdays; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ alternate Thursdays; _Austrian Lloyd_ weekly; _Messageries Maritimes_, _N. Paquet & Co._, and _Società Nazionale_ all fortnightly. * * * * * =Overland Routes.= Travellers bound for the Central or Eastern Mediterranean, and in particular those who wish to avoid the long voyage to Gibraltar and thus to save five, six, or more days, will choose an overland route to one or other of the Mediterranean ports. _Marseilles_ is reached from London by the ‘P. & O. Express’, starting on Thursdays, or by the ‘Calais-Mediterranean Express’, daily in winter, in 20–20¼ hrs., or by ordinary express in 22½ hrs.—_Genoa_ is 27 hrs. from London, viâ Paris and Mont Cenis.—_Venice_ is 32¼ hrs. from London viâ Bâle and the St. Gotthard.—_Trieste_ is reached in 43½ hrs. from London viâ Milan.—_Naples_ is 46 hrs. from London viâ Paris and Rome.—_Brindisi_ is reached in 45¼ hrs. by the ‘P. & O. Brindisi Express’, starting on Friday mornings, or by ordinary express, viâ Boulogne and Paris, in 54½ hrs. Lastly, the traveller who proposes to explore the Mediterranean from east to west, and who desires to economize time, should consult Bradshaw’s Continental Railway Time Tables, or the German Reichskursbuch, or Hendschel’s Telegraph, as to the great Oriental expresses to Constantinople and the Black Sea. =Hints to Steamboat Passengers.= During the height of the season (in Egypt Jan. and Feb., in other parts of the Mediterranean March, April and even May) passages often have to be booked a month or six weeks in advance. Holders of return-tickets or combined tickets must secure berths for the return-voyage also long beforehand. _Heavy Baggage_, to be stowed away in the hold, should be sent on board at least one or two days beforehand. Each passenger should endeavour, for his own sake and that of others, to limit his requirements for the voyage to one or two cabin-trunks of moderate size. Private cabins should, as a rule, be kept locked, and small articles should not be left lying about on deck unwatched. _Landing_ or _Embarkation_ by small boat is often an unpleasant proceeding, as the boatmen are apt to be extortionate in their demands, especially when the sea is rough. The charge for each passenger with his baggage should be ascertained beforehand and only paid at the end of the trip, or the whole transaction may be entrusted to one of the hotel-agents. Small articles carried in the hand should not be allowed out of sight. The _Food_ is generally good. Coffee is served between 8 and 10, lunch at 1 or earlier, dinner at 6 or 7. First-class passengers in the British and German steamers dress for dinner. The _Fees_ vary according to circumstances. They are of course higher if the passenger has been ill and has required much attention. The chief steward or stewardess usually expects at least 1 fr. per day, and the other attendants receive fees proportioned to the services rendered. _Medical Attendance_ and medicines, in case of illness, are nominally free, but a reasonable fee is usually paid. _Baths_ in the larger steamboats are free, fixed hours being allotted to passengers on application. Passengers may bring their own _Deck Chairs_ or hire them from the chief steward. IV. Intercourse with Orientals. The objects and pleasures of travel are so unintelligible to most Orientals that they are apt to regard the European traveller as a lunatic, or at all events as a Crœsus, and therefore to be exploited on every possible occasion. Hence their constant demands for ‘bakshîsh’ (‘a gift’). To check this demoralizing cupidity the traveller should never give bakshish except for services rendered, unless occasionally to aged or crippled beggars. Small fees are, however, not unreasonably expected by drivers, guides, donkey-boys, and others, over and above their stipulated hire. Excursionists should therefore always be well provided with small change. If no previous bargain has been made the charges and fees stated in the Handbook are usually ample. While the traveller should be both cautious and firm in his dealings with the natives, he should avoid being too exacting or suspicious. Many of those he meets with are like mere children and often show much kindliness of disposition. In most cases their attempts at extortion are comparatively trifling; but if serious, the matter may be referred to the police or to the traveller’s consul. On the other hand exaggerated professions of friendship should be distrusted, loyalty towards strangers being still rarer in the East than elsewhere. The natives are apt to make common cause against European visitors. While their religion usually requires them to address each other as ‘_yâ akhûya_’ (my brother), their brotherhood does not extend to outsiders. As the Orientals are often remarkably dignified and punctilious in their bearing, the traveller should show corresponding respect and consideration for their customs and prejudices. He should never, for example, photograph a Mohammedan without his leave, nor look too curiously at the veiled women, nor don Oriental costume. Sacred places, such as mosques, chapels, and religious houses and their schools, must not be entered without removing one’s shoes or putting on slippers, lest the carpets and mats on which prayer is offered be polluted. Korans must never be touched; and when prayers are being recited, strangers must keep carefully aloof. In every part of the Orient the traveller meets with ‘saints’ (often imbecile or insane), who go about in fantastic rags and sometimes stark naked. Needless to say he will give them a wide berth. The traveller may least obtrusively observe the various phases of Oriental life by visiting the native quarters of the towns, the bazaars and markets, and the popular festivals and recreations of the Moslems. Story-tellers at the native cafés (reminiscent of the Arabian Nights), jugglers, wrestlers, snake-charmers, barbers’ shops, and native schools are all objects of interest. In Turkey and in Egypt the popular theatres with their shadow-scenes (kara göz) are curious. Ladies may sometimes, by special introduction, obtain admission to a private dwelling-house and get a glimpse of the manners and customs of Oriental women. On Fridays they may see the Moslem women raising their veils in the cemeteries (comp. p. 220). Gentlemen, when visiting an Oriental, knock at the door with an iron ring. From within is asked the question ‘_mîn_’ (who is there)? On being admitted, after the ladies who happen to be in the court have retired, he removes his shoes lest the costly carpets be sullied, and uncovers his head. The host approaches to meet him, one step or more according to the honour he desires to do his visitor. The latter salutes him in Oriental fashion by placing his right hand on his heart and then moving it up to his forehead. Questions as to health are first asked, but no allusion must be made to the ladies of the family, who are regarded as under a veil (_sitr_). Coffee is always offered. The servant with his left hand on his heart, hands round the little cups to the guests in order of their rank. The guest holds the cup in his hand till it is taken back by the servant. If the host wishes his guest to pay a long visit he delays his order for coffee, and the guest must not leave before then. It is considered highly impolite to decline a visit, and each visit must of course be returned. The GUIDES who proffer their services everywhere may generally be dispensed with, except by novices or by travellers pressed for time. Most of those at Constantinople and in Asia Minor are native Jews, who speak a little English, Italian, French, or German. All, as a rule, are ignorant and uneducated, and their ‘explanations’ of antiquities or works of art are worthless. When, as sometimes happens, they assume a patronizing or a familiar manner, they should be promptly checked and kept in their proper place. If a purchase has to be made, or a carriage or horse to be hired, the aid of a guide should be declined, as the sum demanded is then considerably raised, and part of it given to the guide as commission. On short excursions the guide usually walks, and it is quite unnecessary to provide him with a mount. In the large towns the guides and commissionaires are sometimes in the pay of gambling-rooms or low places of entertainment. Against such, especially at night, the traveller should be on his guard. * * * * * The Mediterranean Sea and adjoining Lands. Geographical Sketch by the late _Prof. Theobald Fischer_. The shores of the Mediterranean, formerly visited in part only and imperfectly known, now most deservedly attract, throughout their whole extent, an ever increasing number of travellers and explorers. No part of the earth’s surface can offer so marvellous an intellectual feast. Land where he may, the traveller is almost invariably struck with the beauty of the scenery, the richness of the vegetation, and the wealth of historical memories. For three thousand years the Mediterranean was the theatre of all history, the cradle of all culture, to which the whole of humanity more or less directly owes its modern civilization. It was here for the first time that the nearness of the opposite coasts and the numerous island stepping-stones, coupled with winds blowing gently for months at a time, deprived the sea of its terrors and gave birth to a hardy race of mariners. The stagnation of the continental peoples was thus powerfully stirred and their ignorance gradually dispelled. It was first in Egypt, and then above all in Greece and in Italy, that those mighty intellectual weapons were forged which were to conquer the whole earth, while from Palestine came the mightiest of all religious and moral influences. The Mediterranean was the school of almost all the mediæval geographers and navigators, such as Toscanelli, Columbus, Vespucci, the Gabotti (the ‘Cabots’ employed by Henry VII.), and others, who added a New World to the old, and who brought Europe into touch with the great Asiatic cradles of culture. The Italians were the first to educate the Spanish, Portuguese, French, and even English mariners, and to introduce them to that Ocean which was to become the world’s commercial and intellectual highway. The ancient Romans were fully aware, from a very early period, that they could maintain their empire on land only by securing their supremacy at sea also. Favoured by the central situation of Italy, they gradually subjected the whole of the Mediterranean lands to their sway, thus imparting to them a certain social and political unity. The name of ‘sea in the middle of the land’, though of late-Roman origin, still suggests the idea that both sea and land belonged to Rome. But this unity was afterwards destroyed by the repeated incursions of Germanic tribes from the north, followed by Arabs and Turks from the south and east. Owing to the discovery of the great ocean highways the Mediterranean was almost entirely neglected in the 16–19th centuries, but since the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 it has become one of the world’s most important arteries of traffic. The establishment of the French in Algeria (1830) and Tunisia (1881) and that of the British in Egypt (1884) have still more effectually reunited Europe and Africa and promoted the progress of civilization and commerce. With Asia also Europe has been brought into closer touch since the Crimean war of 1854–6, when the Black Sea was opened up, and new avenues to the Orient were thus rendered available. While nominally belonging to three different quarters of the globe, the Mediterranean with its shores, being bounded on the north by a long wall of high mountains and on the south by a vast and even more impenetrable expanse of desert, possesses quite a unique individuality of its own. Geologically considered the Mediterranean forms part of an immense depression girdling the whole of the earth’s crust and separating the northern from the southern parts. This depression probably existed during the earlier geological periods, but in its depths has not yet assumed a settled character, as is evidenced by frequent earthquakes, mostly tectonic, and by continuous volcanic activity. This great depression is believed by geologists to have extended in the mesozoic period into Central Asia, far beyond the limits of the present Mediterranean, forming an immense sea to which the name of _Tethys_ has been given. In its depths were deposited those strata, chiefly calcareous and argillaceous, which were afterwards raised and converted into dry land by means of the centripetal motion of the earlier masses of rock and by lateral pressure. In proof of this it may be noted that some two-thirds of Italy and four-fifths of Sicily consist of subaqueous formations of the tertiary or even a later period. In the midst of this vast ‘Eurasian’ (European-Asiatic) region of folded rock formation, some 930 miles in length, bounded on the north by the solid primæval rocks of the continent of Europe, and on the south by the great plateau of the desert, lies the =Chief Basin of the Mediterranean=, embracing the Adriatic and the Greek Archipelago, where the highly indented coast and the numerous islands and peninsulas display a most striking variety of picturesque scenery. On the other hand the smaller part of the sea, lying to the south of a line drawn from the Lesser Syrtis, past the south coasts of Crete and Cyprus, to North Syria, has been formed by encroachment on the plateau of the desert (p. xxxiii), and is almost entirely destitute of attraction. In the geological history of the Mediterranean it is important to note also that three great rock-masses of the earliest periods still survive. These are the Iberian mass to the west, once probably connected with the kindred rocks of the Atlas in Morocco; then the Tyrrhenian mass, in the centre, and the Rumelian to the east. These three belong to the archæan and palæozoic periods. Once towering to Alpine peaks, they were gradually undermined by the action of the waves and by the subsidence of the land. Their bases were thus partly covered with their débris, built up in new formations. By later movements of the earth’s crust, however, these shapeless primæval masses were again broken up, and by the pressure and counter-pressure of the fragments were piled up anew into smaller mountain-ranges of considerable height. Thus from the Iberian primæval rock sprang up, in the Castilian range (Sierra de Gredos), peaks to a height of nearly 9000 feet; in the Rhodope of Rumelia rise similar peaks to nearly 10,000 feet high; and even amid the ruins of the Tyrrhenis (p. xxxi) still towers the granitic Monte Cinto in Corsica to a height of 8900 feet. Around these great primæval masses, deeply rooted in the earth’s crust, were gradually built up the recent folded mountains, out of materials forced aside and upwards by the débris of earlier rock as it sank into the sea. Thus on the IBERIAN PEDESTAL, from the north side, out of the depths of the great Biscay abyss, arose the _Pyrenaean-Cantabrian Folded Chain_ (culminating in the Aneto or Maladetta, 11,168 ft.), the fan-like structure of which has been due to lateral pressure coming from the Ebro depression also. By similar pressure from the south side the _Andalusian Folded Mountains_ were piled up against the Iberian nucleus (Meseta Mts.), and, though only 23 miles distant from the Mediterranean, they tower in the Mulhacén of the Sierra Nevada to a height of 11,424 feet, the greatest altitude in Europe apart from the Alps. As the Pyrenees are fringed on the east, on the frontier of Spain and France (near Port Vendres), with a deeply indented coast, so too the Andalusian range is strongly marked by transverse fissures, the eastmost of which have severed the Balearic Islands from the mainland. Still more striking is the great westmost fissure or cleavage, where the girdle of mountains takes a sharp turn from west to east, where the action of tides and waves has hollowed out the _Straits of Gibraltar_, and has further widened them within the historic period. The Mediterranean is here separated from the Atlantic by a submarine bar or threshold, at a depth averaging only 650 feet, extending from Cape Trafalgar to Cape Spartel, a distance of 27½ miles, and forming the boundary between the inner Alboran basin or depression and the outer or Andalusian. Thus, on north and south alike the Iberian central bed-rock is bordered with lofty mountains, whose seaboard almost everywhere repels human traffic, and seems barred against Europe by the Pyrenees and against Africa by the mountains of Andalusia. On the east side, however, between the Pyrenees and Cabo de la Nao (p. 112), the original rock-nucleus slopes gradually down to the Mediterranean. Still more important is the western slope down to the Atlantic, whose waves have penetrated into the lower estuaries of primæval rock on the coast, thus forming a number of excellent harbours, such as in particular that of _Lisbon_ at the mouth of the Tagus. Towards the Atlantic descend also the plains of Lower Andalusia, the so-called _Guadalquivir Basin_, which lies between the Iberian central pedestal and the Andalusian sedimentary and contorted formations. In this basin lie Spain’s chief seaports for traffic with Africa and America, the island-harbour of _Cadiz_, the estuary-harbour of _Huelva_, the starting-point of Columbus, and the river-harbour of _Seville_, accessible to large vessels at high-tide. In NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA the Andalusian contorted formation is continued by the _Rîf Mts._ of Morocco (p. 93) and by the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 169), extending to the south and then turning eastwards. These ranges are characterized by deep fissures, formed by prehistoric volcanic action and descending abruptly to the Mediterranean. The whole northern coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia, apart from numerous wave-worn beaches, is completely rock-bound, forbidding all approach. Even the artificial harbours like that of _Algiers_ are maintained with difficulty. At the east end of this long stretch of coast comes at last the welcome haven offered by the _Gulf of Tunis_ which runs inland at the mouth of the depression between the Tell Atlas and the Sahara Atlas (p. 320), and on which the Medjerda and other streams and several important roads converge. Here, as in Lower Andalusia, a great avenue to the interior was thus opened up. This favoured spot therefore became a great focus of traffic, and as it lay on the Straits of Pantelleria (p. 396) it was also of great political importance. The ancient _Utica_ (p. 353) was succeeded by the ‘new city’ of _Carthage_ (p. 344), the predecessors of the modern Tunis. From this base the Carthaginians, the Vandals, and the Moors ruled Sicily and Sardinia. With such a base as the admirable naval harbour of _Bizerta_, lately constructed by the French, they in turn may perhaps some day become masters of the Mediterranean. The _Straits of Pantellería_, leading from the western to the eastern basin of the Mediterranean and separating the Atlas from the Apennines, have been formed, like those of Gibraltar and the narrow side-portal of Messina, by transverse cleavage. Owing to the subsidence of the flat offshoots of the Apennines and to the erosive action of the waves the straits have been gradually widened to about 90 miles. The _Maltese Islands_ are fragments, now broken up by fissures, of what was once a tableland, but they too are being rapidly washed away by the action of the surf. On the other hand the island of _Pantellería_, which has given its name to the straits, rising to a height of 2743 ft. from the verge of the central abyss and 3900 ft. in depth, is of volcanic origin. These transverse fissures are indeed generally the scenes of volcanic action, and they are usually situated at points where the mountains of recent contorted formation take a sudden bend (as is notably the case in the lower valley of the Danube). ITALY forms an immense bridge across the trough of the Mediterranean, extending to Cape Bon in Tunisia. Like a lofty embankment, rising over 18,000 ft. from the bottom of the sea, _Calabria_, culminating in the Aspromonte (6424 ft. above sea-level), separates the _Tyrrhenian Sea_ (12,000 ft. deep, though of recent formation) from the _Ionian Sea_. The latter is the deepest basin in the Mediterranean, attaining a depth of 14,500 feet. The _Apennines_, deviating in their southern course from the usual ‘Eurasian’ direction, were probably influenced by the primæval _Tyrrhenis_. This ancient nucleus of the Italian continent has been broken up by movements of the earth’s crust which began in the mesozoic period, were still more marked in the later tertiary period, and continue to this day. Some of the solid blocks, as in Tuscany, Calabria, and Sicily (the Monti Peloritani near Messina), have been incorporated in the later rock structure of the Apennines; others again rise as isolated masses from the abysses of the Tyrrhenian Sea, such as Corsica, Sardinia, and Elba. The lines of cleavage, especially between Cosenza and Palermo, were marked by great volcanic activity. In a curve, parallel with the abrupt ramparts of Calabria and Sicily, rise the volcanoes of the Lipari Islands (Stromboli) and Ustica in succession. To the north the series is continued by Vesuvius, the Epomeo, and the Ponza Islands near Naples, and by the Alban Mts. near Rome. All these lie on the inner declivity of the Apennines. To the south the series is continued by Mt. Ætna in Sicily, lying outside of the Apennines. In the quaternary period the new Apennine formations underwent an upheaval which imparted to the range its present orographical unity. The result was that the straits which once intersected Southern Italy, connecting the Tyrrhenian with the Ionian basin, were filled up, with the exception of those of Messina, while these last were narrowed to 2 miles and shoaled at the north end, where they are only 335 ft. deep. The intensity of the upheaval is evidenced by the fact that quaternary deposits cover the terraces of the Aspromonte in Calabria to a height of 3900 feet above the sea-level. That these movements of the earth’s crust still continue is proved by the variations of level in the Bay of Naples observed within historic times. The most striking instance of this is the great subsidence in the island of Capri which has taken place within the Christian era. In the Blue Grotto there we find remains of a flight of steps of the time of Tiberius, descending to the water, but the lowest step is now 19 feet below the surface. Italy opens towards the west. On the west side lie its picturesque bays and islands, as well as most of its great centres of culture, _Rome_ and _Florence_, _Genoa_ and _Naples_, besides many others. But the east side also is important owing to its close connection with the south-eastern basin of the Mediterranean. The chief outlets in this direction are the lagoon-harbour of _Venice_, as great a portal of continental commerce in the middle ages as Genoa is at the present day, and the excellent harbours of _Brindisi_, _Taranto_, _Messina_, and _Syracuse_. Were geographical advantages alone decisive, Italy might again become mistress of the Mediterranean. Ethnographically also she is highly favoured. Her population, densest on the coasts, is about one-third of the scattered and heterogeneous hundred million inhabitants of the whole of the Mediterranean lands. Almost all along the coast of the north-western basin of the Mediterranean the recent stratified and contorted headlands abut most picturesquely on the sea. On the north-west only, on each side of the Pyrenees, the basin is bounded by a coast of the primæval bed-rock formation, and is easily accessible from the Iberian mountains by the valleys of the Ebro, Jucar, and other rivers. Still more important are the avenues afforded by the _Aquitanian Plains_ and the _Rhone Valley_. Hence it was that from a very early period the streams of Roman culture flowed through Marseilles and Narbonne to western and central Europe. But these, like the Straits of Gibraltar on the west, the Carso or Karst near Trieste on the north, and the Bosporus on the east, afford inlets also for the cold winds which sometimes pour into the warm mountain-girdled basin of the Mediterranean and force back the zone of southern vegetation (p. xxxv). The southern margin of the north-western basin of the Mediterranean lies in the same latitude (36°) as the northern margin of the south-eastern basin (Cape Tænaron, on the south coast of Asia Minor). This less favoured south-eastern basin sends two great branches towards central Europe, the Adriatic and the Greek Archipelago, both of which open out in the direction of the Suez Canal and the Red Sea. From these branches run important roads leading to the heart of Europe, in particular those from Venice and Trieste into Austria, and that from Saloniki to Belgrade and up the Danube. This last, as also the road from Belgrade to Sofia, Adrianople, and Constantinople, traverses the RUMELIAN PRIMARY FORMATION, to which the greater part of the south-eastern European peninsula belongs (Thrace and Macedonia, extending into Servia). To the same period probably once belonged also the north-western part of Asia Minor and _Ægaeis_, of which last the only surviving relics are the islands of the _Cyclades_. Here, too, over the primæval bed-rock, recent folded mountains have been gradually built up. The _Balkan_ is one of these ranges. Another is the _Illyrian-Greek Range_, running in a different direction, which with its broad girdle gives the peninsula its southern trend, while shutting it off from the Adriatic and barring direct access to the north-west. As the Balearic Islands belong to the Andalusian stratified formation, and as Sicily and its adjoining islands form part of the Apennines, so the western stratified girdle of the south-eastern European peninsula crumbled, even within the historic period, into peninsulas and islands, formed chiefly by very recent subsidence. Thus arose _Greece_, a hill-country with an extensive seaboard, a new and unique region which was one day to reign supreme in the intellectual world. It is probable that the Greek range of hills was once prolonged eastwards, as appears to be indicated by the lie of the Cretan mountains, and that these in their turn were connected with the similarly stratified _Taurus Mountains_ in Asia Minor. Just as the south-eastern peninsula of Europe, with Asia Minor, thus formed the great stepping-stones of traffic which brought the ancient culture of Europe into contact with that of Mesopotamia and Syria, so when the railway from Constantinople to Bagdad is completed a great future may yet be in store for the Orient. The =Eastern Mediterranean=, the smaller south-eastern basin to the south of Malta, Crete, and Cyprus (p. xxviii), lies within the region of the great primæval desert-plateau of northern Africa (apart from the Atlas regions), of Arabia, and Syria, and has been formed by the subsidence of part of that plateau. In contrast to the richly varied shores of the western and central basins its coasts, as may even be seen from a glance at the map, are monotonous. Their formation, whether perpendicular or horizontal, is featureless, and there is an almost entire lack of islands, harbours, and rivers. The Nile greatly relieves this monotony, but its sources lie within tropical regions far beyond the limits of the desert. _Alexandria_ possesses almost the only natural harbour on this flat coast of early formation. The old-world characteristics of the land, its inhabitants, and their language at once strike the traveller on landing at _Tripoli_. Yet even this part of the Mediterranean, especially the _Levant Basin_, beyond the passage between Crete and Barca, contains recent formations. The hill-region of _Barca_, the ancient Cyrenaica (p. 413), averaging 1600 feet in height, is composed of miocene marine strata. The bay now filled up by the Nile delta, and at one time connected with the Red Sea, is of even later origin, dating perhaps from the pluvial or glacial era. That the mouth of the Nile once lay much farther to the north and watered Palestine is evidenced by the identity of its fauna with that of the Jordan and the Lake of Tiberias (crocodiles, for instance, occurring in the Nahr ez-Zerkâ, to the south of Mt. Carmel; p. 468). Movements of the earth’s crust also account for the peculiar conformation of that part of the great desert-plateau which we call _Syria_. It is only differentiated from the monotonous North Arabian desert by the great Syrian Valley or trough, running from north to south, and ending at the Gulf of Akaba in the Erythræan depression (the Red Sea), which dates from about the same epoch. On each side of this long narrow furrow, descending to a depth of some 2500 feet below the sea-level, strips of land have been forced upwards so as to form lofty mountains. These, in spite of subsidences and erosion, still attain a height of about 10,000 feet in the twin-giants of _Lebanon_ and _Anti-Lebanon_ in Central Syria. It is to this highly picturesque mountain-wall, which condenses the vapours from the sea and remains snow-clad till late in summer, that the Syrian seaboard, 10–16 miles in breadth, owes its luxuriant subtropical vegetation, and Palestine its cultivability as far as its southern borders. Syria, which may be regarded geographically and anthropologically as a kind of peninsula of the Mediterranean, thus forms a bridge between north and south, connecting Asia Minor and Mesopotamia with Arabia and Egypt, and bounded by the sea on the west and by the desert, only some 60 miles distant, on the east. The =Black Sea=, which from the north-eastern angle of the Archipelago runs far into the interior of the Old World, lies outside of the Mediterranean regions. Like the inland Caspian Sea it is a relic of the tertiary Sarmatic Sea, which was afterwards broken up into lakes of brackish water. It was not till the diluvial epoch that those subsidences which created the _Sea of Marmora_ brought the Black Sea also into connection with the Mediterranean. Through the Sea of Marmora there must once have flowed a great river, into whose valley the sea afterwards penetrated from the south, forming the _Dardanelles_ and the _Bosporus_ of the present day. Travellers on the Rhine will observe an interesting resemblance between these straits and the Rhine Valley between Bingen and Coblenz. Like these straits the Black Sea also is a great trough hollowed out between lofty stratified mountains. On three sides its bold rocky coasts are inhospitable and forbidding. On the north it is bounded by the ‘steppe’, a plateau of primitive formation, no less monotonous than the desert-plateau on the south side of the Mediterranean, yet cultivable owing to its more northern situation. At two places on this side, through gaps in the mountain rampart, the sea has overflowed the plateau, forming the shallow _Gulf of Odessa_ and _Sea of Azov_. Two great routes of traffic were thus opened up from the Black Sea into the heart of Eastern Europe and even of Central Asia, enriching the world’s commerce with the products of these regions, and at the same time forming the portal through which Byzantine culture and Greek Christianity found their way into Russia. Through these passages great masses of cold northern air are poured into the Black Sea; but between them the _Peninsula of the Crimea_, a relic of the broken-down mountain-girdle, still stands boldly forth, giving shelter to an almost Mediterranean vegetation on its southern coast. On that coast lies the admirable harbour of _Sebastopol_. Nearer the Sea of Azov once lay the flourishing Greek colonies of _Pantikapaeon_ and _Phanagoria_, and in the middle ages the Genoese settlements of _Sudak_ (Kertch) and _Kaffa_ (Theodosia or Feodossiya). As the corn of Southern Russia is now the chief export from Odessa to London and Antwerp, so, from the 14th century onwards, quantities of Russian caviare were brought by Italian merchants from Kaffa to Bruges, which was then one of the world’s greatest markets. The =Climate= of the Mediterranean is very equable. In every age northerners have been attracted by the mildness of the winters, when the occasional storms and heavy rains are of short duration and are soon succeeded by bright sunshine. The heat of summer is tempered everywhere, especially on the more southern coasts, by refreshing sea-breezes. The farther south one goes, the longer the dry season lasts. At Tripoli, for example, it lasts for seven months and at Alexandria for ten. The subtropical maximum air-pressure over the eastern Atlantic, by which rainfall and wind-movements are determined, is usually continued in winter past the southern limit of the Mediterranean (comp. p. 29), thus bringing the whole of that sea within the zone of the changeable and rainy winds of Central Europe. In summer the pressure lies farther to the north, producing in most parts of the Mediterranean steady northerly currents of air. The climate is tempered also by the warmth of the sea itself. The bar at the west entrance of the Straits of Gibraltar (p. xxix) keeps out the cold water of the deep Atlantic, but allows the influx of the warmer surface-water to compensate for what the Mediterranean loses by evaporation. This loss would otherwise amount to a depth of 10–15 ft. per annum. The influx of water from the Atlantic causes a current to flow along the North African coast from west to east, but its thermal effects are soon lost. In summer the surface of the Mediterranean is heated by the sun up to 75–82° Fahr.; but the temperature diminishes rapidly down to a depth of about 1000 feet, where it reaches a uniform minimum corresponding with the surface temperature of February, the coolest month in the year. This in the north-western basin is 55° Fahr. only, and in the south-eastern 56¼°, but it suffices to temper the cold winds of winter, while additional warmth is brought from time to time by the hot sirocco from the interior of Africa (comp. p. 321). It may be stated generally that the winter temperature on the Mediterranean averages 14° Fahr. above that of almost all other regions in the same latitude. The warmest places are of course those on the coasts facing the south and sheltered from the north, while the average temperature rises gradually from south-east to north-west. The =Vegetation= is rich and varied. Evergreens abound, being better able to stand the long droughts than deciduous trees and shrubs. Among the forest-trees in the warmer regions the commonest are pines, including stone-pines, and oaks of the evergreen and other varieties. The underwood (_macchia_, _maquis_, or _garrigue_, Grk. _phrýgana_) is composed of mastic-bushes (Pistacia lentiscus), myrtles, arbutus-trees (Arbutus unĕdo), broom, tree-like heaths (Erica arborea and scoparia), resinous and aromatic cistus-shrubs with large blossoms resembling wild roses, and climbing-plants of many varieties. Most prominent among trees in the cultivated lands is the silver-grey olive, which, as well as the vine and the fig-tree, has thriven here from the earliest times and is the most characteristic feature in every Mediterranean landscape. Most of the other fruit-trees also have been known here since remote antiquity. The fruit of the date-palm attains perfection in the oases of North Africa only (comp. p. 171), but the tree bears fruit on the Spanish coast, and is very popular as an ornamental tree on the French and Italian Riviera and in other sheltered situations. Lemons were introduced by the Arabs, and oranges were brought from southern China by the Portuguese about the middle of the 16th century. Many other foreign trees and plants have been introduced since then. Aloes and opuntias, which now grow wild and are often regarded as characteristic of the Mediterranean, were introduced from America. In the beautiful and luxuriant gardens, especially in Italy, on the French Riviera, and in Algeria, the flora of almost every quarter of the globe is represented. No less varied and interesting are the =Inhabitants= of the Mediterranean lands, who belong to three distinct continents, and who differ widely in race and language, in religion and culture. In remote mountain-regions there still exist peoples, like the _Basques_ and the _Albanians_, who belong to the oldest races in Europe. In the south and the east dwell _Arabs_ and _Turks_, comparatively recent immigrants from the steppes of Asia. On one side, as in Southern France, is witnessed the height of civilization; on the other, as in Albania and many parts of Northern Africa, the population is sunk in the depths of ignorance. The dwellers in the west profess the Roman Catholic faith, those in the east belong to the Greek Catholic church, while they differ materially in culture also. Christianity again is antagonistic to Islam, which prevails in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and North Africa. The inhabitants of the Atlas regions, of Tripolitania, and of Barca are _Berbers_ (p. 94), who are neither Arabs nor Turks, but are more akin to the Europeans. The Osman Turks of the Balkan Peninsula and Asia Minor have been so blended with Mediterranean races that they now retain little of their original Mongolian character. Entirely distinct again from the Arabs are the Aramaic _Syrians_, although they speak Arabic, and so too are the _Fellahin_ of Egypt. Most mixed perhaps of all is the blood of the _Modern Greeks_. I. FROM ENGLAND TO THE MEDITERRANEAN BY THE PORTUGUESE COAST. Route Page 1. From England viâ Oporto and Lisbon to Gibraltar or Tangier (Marseilles and Genoa) 1 2. Lisbon 6 a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental, 10.—b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem, 13.—c. Excursion to Cintra, 15. 1. From England viâ Oporto and Lisbon to Gibraltar or Tangier (_Marseilles and Genoa_). 1. TO GIBRALTAR DIRECT. The chief Steamboat Lines (offices, comp. pp. xviii-xx) are the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, once weekly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Port Said, etc.; the _Orient Royal Line_, fortnightly from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the _North German Lloyd_, fortnightly from Southampton to Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, Naples, Port Said, etc.; the _Anchor Line_ almost weekly from Liverpool or Glasgow for Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Palermo, Port Said, etc.; fares to Gibraltar in all these from 12_l._ 2_s._ downwards. Less expensive are the _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.’s_ steamers, fortnightly from London; and from Liverpool, the _Moss Line_ fortnightly and the _Papayanni Line_ occasionally; fares in all these range from 6_l._ to 8_l._ 2. COASTING STEAMERS. _Hall Line_, weekly from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Málaga, and Cadiz; the _Pacific Line_, fortnightly from Liverpool to La Rochelle-Pallice (for Bordeaux), Corunna, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), Lisbon, and St. Vincent (Cape Verde), and thence to S. America (passengers for the Mediterranean requiring of course to tranship at Lisbon or St. Vincent); the _Nederland Royal Mail Steamers_, fortnightly from Southampton for the Mediterranean and Batavia, touch at Lisbon, and so also those of the _Rotterdam Lloyd_, fortnightly from Southampton, for Tangier, the Mediterranean, and Batavia; _Yeoward Bros. Line_, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon; _Booth Line_, thrice monthly from Liverpool to Havre, Vigo, Leixões (for Oporto), etc.; _Ellerman Line_, weekly from Liverpool to Lisbon and Oporto; the steamers of the _German East African Line_, once every three weeks from Southampton, call at Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, and Naples, on their way to Port Said; the Atlantic liners of the _Hamburg-American_ and _Hamburg & South American Cos._, calling several times monthly at Southampton, also touch occasionally at Lisbon; _Royal Holland Lloyd_, monthly from Dover to Boulogne, Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, etc.; the vessels of the _Compañía Trasatlántica_, monthly from Liverpool, call at Corunna, Vigo, Lisbon, Cadiz, Cartagena, Valencia, Barcelona, and Genoa, on their voyages to Colombo and Manila. 3. EXCURSION STEAMERS. Many of the above companies and others besides organize Mediterranean cruises and circular tours at very reasonable fares, whereby everything is made easy and comfortable; but the more enterprising and independent traveller will greatly prefer to piece his tour together for himself, combining the various routes to suit his own convenience, and often lingering for days in profoundly impressive historic places or amid glorious scenery, where the hurriedly conducted tourist can spend a few hours only. Among the excursion steamers may be mentioned the ‘Vectis’ of the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, which offers a trip of 10 days from London to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Tangier, Málaga, and Marseilles for 10–15 guineas, and another, of 21 days, from Marseilles to Palermo, Constantinople, the Piræus, Naples, and Marseilles, for 21–40 _gs._ Similar cruises are offered by the _Cunard Line_, starting from Liverpool for the Mediterranean and Adriatic, the _Orient Royal Line_ from London (20 days; fares from 18 _gs._), and by ‘_Continental Travel_’ (5 Endsleigh Gardens, London), some of the last-named (either from Southampton or from Marseilles) extending to Egypt and the Holy Land, and lasting from 13 to 34 days (fares 10–26 _gs._).—The voyage from London to Lisbon (about 1170 M.) usually takes 3½ days, and thence to Gibraltar (about 350 M.) one day more; but some of the steamers take longer, while much of course depends on the number of ports called at and on the length of stay made at each. For details as to the sailings, which, as well as fares, are liable to frequent alteration, application should be made to the various companies, or to Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (Ludgate Circus, London, E.C.) or other tourist-agencies. TO GIBRALTAR DIRECT. As indicated at p. 1, most of the great steamers bound for Port Said, India, Australia, and other distant parts steer for Gibraltar direct. Of the COASTING STEAMERS to Gibraltar some touch at Lisbon only, others at Leixões (or Oporto) and Lisbon, and others again at various additional stations. All the important stations are here mentioned in their order. The Hamburg-American steamers call at _Boulogne_ (see Baedeker’s N. France) to take up passengers for Lisbon and America. Most of the vessels pass the _Cap de la Hague_, a little to the N.W. of Cherbourg, and the _Channel Islands_, which belong to Great Britain. The first of these is _Alderney_ (Fr. _Aurigny_); next comes the islet of _Burhou_; beyond it, behind the dangerous rocks called the _Casquets_, marked by a triple flashing light, lies _Guernsey_ (‘green island’), and farther away, to the left, is _Jersey_. The coast of Brittany or Bretagne is visible in clear weather only. All the steamers leave the English Channel near _Ushant_ (_Ouessant_; lighthouse), an island near the coast of Brittany, and steer to the S.S.W. across the _Bay of Biscay_ (_Viscaya_), where, even in fine weather, the heavy swell of the open Atlantic is distinctly felt. The steamers of the Pacific Line and of the Rotterdam Lloyd touch at =La Pallice=, 3 M. from _La Rochelle_. From La Rochelle, an interesting historic town, by railway to (145 M.) Bordeaux, see Baedeker’s Southern France. The Bay of Biscay is bounded on the S. by the N. coast of Spain, with which the W. coast of France forms a right angle. In this angle, far to the E. of the steamer’s course, lie Bayonne and the famous health resort of Biarritz. To the S.W. of the latter is (8 M.) St. Jean de Luz, and 8 M. farther is Hendaye, on the Spanish frontier (see Baedeker’s S. France). In Spain, 12 M. to the W. of the frontier, is situated San Sebastián, a strikingly picturesque town and fashionable seaside resort; 71½ M. farther to the W. lies Bilbao, famed for its iron and steel, 74 M. beyond which is Santandér, with its important harbour. About 280 M. farther to the W. are the N.W. headlands of Spain which mark the S.W. end of the Bay of Biscay. The steamers of the Pacific Line, the Compañía Trasatlántica, and some others next call at =Corunna=, Span. _La Coruña_, a picturesque and important seaport famed in history, and the chief arsenal of N. Spain (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal; debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Time permitting, passengers may spend an hour or two on shore in walking through the new town (_Pescadería_) and the loftily situated old town (_Ciudad Vieja_), and in ascending to the _Torre de Hércules_ (185 ft.; lighthouse), about 1 M. to the N. of the town, for the sake of the splendid view it affords. Some 35 M. to the W. of Corunna lie the small _Sisargas Islands_, beyond which all the vessels steer to the S., past _Cabo Villano_ (lighthouse), _Cabo Toriñana_ (lighthouse), and _Cape Finisterre_. To the E., in clear weather, we may descry the long outlines of the Galician mountain-range (‘sierra’). Beyond Cape Finisterre we pass a number of far-penetrating inlets (_rias_) which abound on the W. coast of Galicia. Many steamers touch also at =Vigo=, a seaport and sea-bathing place most picturesquely situated on the _Ria de Vigo_, the southmost inlet of Galicia, which runs 19 M. inland (debarkation or embarkation 1 peseta). Fine view near the lofty Castillo del Castro, to the S. of the town. Some eight or nine hours’ steaming carries us from Vigo, past the mouth of the _Minho_, the boundary between Spain and Portugal, to— =Leixões= (pron. layshŏengsh; Brit. vice-consul, T. Coverley), the first Portuguese port, lying at the mouth of the little river _Leça_ and forming the outer harbour of _Oporto_. About 2½ M. farther to the S. is the mouth of the _Douro_, usually entered by the smaller steamers bound for (3½ M.) Oporto itself. Passengers who wish to go ashore at Leixões are conveyed by motor-boat or rowing-boat (about 225 reis or 1_s._, and half as much more for luggage) to the custom-house. Visitors with heavy luggage require to take the train (Leça station, near the Alfándega or custom-house) to Oporto (Estacão da Boa Vista, in the N. of the town); others may take the electric tramway (120 rs.), running from Leixões through the villa-suburb of _Leça da Palmeira_ and the watering-places of _Mattosinhos_ and _São João da Foz_, and up the right bank of the Douro, to Oporto (about 5 M., in 1 hr.). It goes as far as the Praça de Dom Pedro; but those in haste will alight in the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique (comp. p. 4). =Oporto.=—HOTELS. *_Hot. do Porto_, _Hôt. de Paris_, _Hôt. de Francfort_, etc.—_Café-Restaurant International_, Praça de Dom Pedro 14; _Café Suisse_, same square, No. 122; _Café Marques_, in the Crystal Palace. CAB 500 rs., or about 2_s._ 3_d._, per hour. CONSULS. British, _H. Grant_.—United States Consular Agent, _W. Stüve_.—ENGLISH CHURCH (_St. James’s_), in the Campo Pequeno, to the N. of the Crystal Palace. _Oporto_, or briefly _Porto_ (‘harbour’) in Portuguese, is a busy commercial town of 172,400 inhab., the industrial capital of N. Portugal, and the place from which the famous wines of the upper valley of the Douro are chiefly exported. It lies 3½ M. from the sea, on the lofty right bank of the Douro, which has forced its passage here through the granite rock. The old town, with its quaint balconied houses, whose walls are often faced with coloured tiles, rises in terraces on the rocky slopes. The new town lies on a lofty plateau to the N., E., and W. of the old. To the N. of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the _Exchange_ (Bolsa), with its showy hall in the Moorish style. To the E. of it stands the _Monument of Prince Henry the Navigator_ (p. 5). Adjoining the exchange is the Gothic church of _São Francisco_ (entrance on the W. side), containing elaborate gilt wood-carving of the 17–18th centuries. Near the E. end of the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique is the so-called _English Factory House_ (Associação Britannica), an imposing building erected by an Englishman in 1785 and now used as a kind of club. The nearest tramway-car conveys us to the Praça de Dom Pedro, the business centre of the city, with an _Equestrian Statue of Pedro IV._ (p. 11) commemorating the granting of the constitution (1826). We ascend to the W. by the steep Calçada dos Clérigos to the church of _Igreja dos Clérigos_ (427 ft.), the tower of which (246 ft.; ticket of admission 100 rs.) commands a panoramic view of the city, the river, and the coast. Adjoining the church on the W. is the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, with the beautiful grounds of the _Jardim da Cordoaria_. We next proceed by the electric tramway ‘Palacio’ to the _Crystal Palace_ (adm. 20, 50 or 100 rs.) with its beautiful pleasure-grounds and superb view of the city, the river, and the sea. The same electric tramway, now entitled the ‘Praça de Dom Pedro’, returns viâ the Rua da Cedofeita to the Praça de Dom Pedro; we, however, change tramway-cars in the former and proceed by the tramway ‘Campanha’ viâ the Praça de Dom Pedro to the pretty _Jardim de São Lázaro_. From the S.W. angle of the garden the Rua das Fontainhas descends to the _Passeio das Fontainhas_ with a view of the river, its S. bank, and both bridges. Following this promenade to the W. we reach the Largo da Policia with a fountain, where remains of the _City Walls_ are to be seen. Hence the Rua de Saraiva de Carvalho leads us, before it descends in an abrupt curve to the left, into the vicinity of the _Sé_, or Cathedral, now almost entirely modernized. We may now traverse the upper roadway (toll 5 rs.; tramway-car if desired) of the magnificent _Ponte de Dom Luiz Primeiro_, spanning the Douro with a single iron arch of 564 ft. On the S. bank, on an eminence immediately to the left, lies the ruinous Augustine convent of _Nossa Senhora da Serra do Pilar_ where Wellington effected his celebrated passage of the Douro against the French (1809). The view, especially from the dome of the church, is very fine. We make our way, at first by steps, then by a steep descent, to the lower roadway of the bridge. Returning to the N. bank of the Douro we follow the Rua Cima do Muro to the Praça da Ribeira which affords an insight into popular life and commands a striking retrospect of the Ponte de Dom Luiz. In the neighbourhood we may take the electric tramway ‘Leça’ which conveys us back to Leixões. In the reverse direction we regain the Praça de Dom Pedro.—Comp. _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_. While the greater OCEAN STEAMERS rarely sight the land, those bound for Lisbon skirt the flat Portuguese coast for some 150 M., from Oporto to _Cabo Carvoeiro_, steering past the _Berlengas Islands_ (lighthouse), and then rounding the _Serra de Cintra_ (p. 15), which ends in the _Cabo da Roca_ (472 ft.), the westmost point of Europe, with its great lighthouse. Passing the _Cabo Raso_, we now steer due E. into the _Bay of Cascaes_, the ‘Riviera’ of Portugal, and enter the month of the _Tagus_ (_Tejo_), where the lighthouses of _Torre de São Julião_ and _Torre de Bugio_ rise conspicuously. On the left we next observe the _Torre de Belem_ and the extensive streets of =Lisbon= (see R. 2). Leaving Lisbon, several of the great liners steer due W. across the Atlantic to America. Other vessels head to the S.W. for Madeira (p. 17), and others again due S., past the _Cabo de Espichel_, on their way to Gibraltar or Tangier. About 120 M. to the S. of Lisbon we are off *_Cape St. Vincent_ (Cabo de São Vicente), the ancient _Promontorium Sacrum_. This huge rocky plateau, with its reddish-brown precipices rising sheer above the sea, presents an imposing appearance. Just beyond it are an old monastery and a lighthouse and then the _Cabo Sagres_. Between these capes we obtain a glimpse of the dreary and sunburnt interior of the country, with its few poor villages. Beyond the Cabo Sagres lies the little town of _Sagres_, founded by Henry the Navigator (1421) as headquarters for his voyages of exploration. Both before and after rounding these two capes we sometimes obtain a pleasant view of the _Serra de Monchique_ (2963 ft.), and before leaving the coast of _Algarve_ we may distinguish the little towns of _Lagos_ and _Albufeira_ and the _Cabo de Santa Maria_. Steering now due E., the smaller trading-vessels call at _Huelva_, a little beyond the Spanish frontier, noted as the shipping-port for the great Tharsis and Rio Tinto mines, and as the starting-point of Columbus (pp. 115, 64) for his voyage to America in 1492, while other vessels call at _Cadiz_ (p. 58); all the larger steamers however proceed direct across the Bay of Cadiz to the S.E. to the Straits of Gibraltar, and either call at Gibraltar itself, or pass it on their eastward voyage without stopping; a certain number touch at _Tangier_ (p. 98). The *_Straits of Gibraltar_, anciently called _Fretum Gaditanum_ or _Herculeum_ (comp. Map, p. 49), from Gades (p. 58) or from the Pillars of Hercules (p. 54), date from the pliocene age, when the action of tides and waves forced a passage from the Atlantic into the great inland cavity of the Mediterranean. The straits are widest at the W. entrance, between _Cape Trafalgar_ (p. 58) on the left, and _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) on the right. The narrowest part (8 M.) is between the _Punta Canales_ (p. 6) and _Cape Ciris_ (p. 123). The E. entrance, between _Europa Point_ (p. 55) and the _Punta Santa Catalina_ (p. 123), is 12½ M. in breadth. Between the ocean and the inland sea run strong currents, the upper and lighter, from W. to E., sometimes setting at the rate of 5 M. an hour, while the lower, being more strongly impregnated with salt and therefore heavier, flows in the opposite direction. These currents, coupled with the conflict of winds at the meeting of the waters, often cause serious trouble to sailing-vessels. To the right, far to the S.E. as we steer into the straits, appears the lighthouse on Cape Spartel, to the E. of which opens the bay of _Tangier_ (p. 98), bounded on the E. by _Cape Malabata_. To the left, on the treeless coast of Andalusia enlivened only by the numerous ancient watch-towers, lies the town of _Tarifa_, preceded by an isthmus ending in the _Punta Marroquí_, the southmost point of the mainland of Europe (36° N. lat.). The steamers then pass the _Punta Canales_ and _Punta del Fraile_, round the _Punta Carnero_, the southmost spur of the _Sierra de los Gazules_, and enter the broad _Bay of Algeciras_ or _Gibraltar_, where they usually anchor in the open roads of _Gibraltar_ (p. 52), to the N.W. of the government harbour. From Gibraltar to _Tangier_ and _Mogador_, see RR. 6 b and 14; to _Genoa_, see R. 15; to _Naples_, see R. 16; to _Marseilles_, see R. 17. 2. Lisbon.[4] ARRIVAL BY SEA. Steamers arriving from Europe (comp. R. 1) usually anchor in the Tagus (Tejo) near the custom-house (Alfándega; Pl. F, G, 5). Landing or embarking by boat (_bote_) ca. 500 rs., and 100–200 rs. for each trunk or package, including transport to the custom-house (bargaining necessary). Steamers from the South (Madeira and Brazil), cast anchor opposite the quarantine station (Posto Maritimo de Desinfecção; Pl. B, 5); passengers are landed in tenders (1600 rs.); for conveyance of luggage to the custom-house each piece 200 rs. As soiled linen is sometimes asked for, it should be packed in a separate bundle and given up in exchange for a metal token. A declaration has to be filled up at the custom-house (100 rs.); tobacco and unused articles only are dutiable. In the case of the larger liners the through-passengers (_passageiros em transito_) are conveyed without luggage to land, and thence back, by tender; the place and time of return should be ascertained. Special tenders are provided for the landing of travellers going no farther, and for their luggage. As a rule, fully half a day is spent in landing and other formalities prior to settling down in a hotel. Hotel-employés are not permitted to convey passengers from the steamers. As the custom-house is closed at sunset, passengers arriving by steamer in the evening must stay on board till next morning. Footnote 4: MONEY. The monetary unit in Portugal is the _real_ (equal to 0.549 of a centime, or roughly ¹⁄₂₀ of a penny or ⅒ of a cent), which is used, however, in multiples (_reis_) only. The copper coins are 5 rs., 10 rs., and 20 rs. (_vintem_, pl. _vintens_). In nickel there are pieces of 50 and 100 rs. (_tostão_, pl. _tostões_). In silver there are coins of 200, 500 (_corõa_), and 1000 rs. (_um milreis_, worth about 5 fr. or 4_s._ 2_d._ or $1). Gold is never met with in ordinary traffic. The banknotes are for 5000 rs., 10,000 rs., and 20,000 rs. A sum of 1000 milreis is called _um conto da reis_.—Small amounts are often reckoned in _tostões_ and _vintens_. The =Central Railway Station= (_Estação Central_ or _Lisboa Rocio_, Pl. F, 3; no restaurant), in the Rua Magalhães Lima, a little to the N.W. of the Rocio (p. 11), is the station for all the through-trains and expresses to Paris, Madrid, etc. Lisbon time is 37 min. behind Greenwich time, and 1 hr. 36 min. slower than mid-European.—Office of the _International Sleeping Carriage Co._ (Companhia Internacional dos Wagons-Lits dos Grandes Expressos Europeus) in the Avenida Palace Hotel (see below). [Illustration: LISBOA] =Hotels= (advisable to engage rooms beforehand). *AVENIDA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; F, 3), adjoining the Central Station, pens. from 3000 rs. upwards; *HOT. BRAGANÇA (Pl b; E, 5), Rua Victor Cordon, in a high site, R. from 1200 rs., B. 350, déj. 800, D. 1100 rs.—HOT. DE INGLATERRA (Pl. i; F, 3), Praça dos Restauradores 45, well spoken of; HOT. CENTRAL (Pl. c; E, 5), in the lower town, commercial, déj. 800, D. 1000, pens. from 2600 rs.; HÔT. DE L’EUROPE, Rua do Carmo 16 (Pl. F, 4), pens. from 2000 rs.—HÔT. DURAND (Pl. k; E, 4), Rua das Flores 71, an English family hotel in a quiet situation, pens. 2400–3000 rs.—AVENIDA HOTEL (Pl. h; F, 2), Avenida da Liberdade 67, good second-class house. =Cafés-Restaurants.= *_Tavares_, Rua do Mundo 37 (Pl. E, F, 3), D. 800 and 1000 rs.; _Impérial_, Rua Magalhães Lima 124, opposite the Avenida Palace Hotel, also superior, D. 700 rs.; _Suisso_, Largo de Camões 8, opposite the E. side of the Central Station.—BEER. _Cervejaria Jansen_, entr. near the Hot. Bragança (see above; side-entrance Rua do Alecrim 30); _Cervejaria Trindade_, Rua da Trindade 110. =Post and Telegraph Office= (_Correio e Telegrapho_; Pl. F, 5) in the Praça do Commercio, corner of Rua do Arsenal, in which last is the entrance to the poste-restante office. Also numerous branch-offices (_estações auxiliares_). Postage of letters (_cartas_) for Portugal and Spain 20 rs.; post-cards (_bilhete postal_) 10 rs.; for abroad (_para o estrangeiro_) 50 and 20 rs. respectively; registration-fee (_registado_) 50 rs. =Cabs= (_Trens de Praça_) in the principal squares, elegant vehicles with two horses for 2 or 4 pers., but the tariff is high. The hirer should ask the driver (_cocheiro_) for a ticket or token (_senha_). The tariff is called _tabella_. ‘Impedido’ means engaged. │ In the old town │ To the suburbs ─────────────────────────┼─────────┬─────────┼─────────┬───────── │1–2 pers.│3–4 pers.│1–2 pers.│3–4 pers. Per drive (_por corrida_)│ 400 rs.│ 500 rs.│ 1000 rs.│ 1200 rs. Per hour (_ás horas_) │ 600 „│ 700 „│ 600 „│ 700 „ Two hours │ 1200 „│ 1400 „│ 1200 „│ 1400 „ Three hours │ 1500 „│ 1800 „│ 1500 „│ 1800 „ Four hours │ 1800 „│ 2200 „│ 1800 „│ 2200 „ The city boundary is the Estrada da Circumvallação (p. 9), and for the W. suburbs Algés (beyond Belem). After the first hour the time is reckoned by ¼ hours. If the cab is dismissed outside the town the driver is entitled to a return-fare. At night (1 a.m. till sunrise) the fares are doubled. Luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) free, up to 50 kilos (110 lbs.) 200 rs., over 50 kilos 400 rs. TAXIMETER CABS (_Trens com Taximeter_) are rather cheaper.—MOTOR TAXIMETERS (_Automovies da Praça_), stand in the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4), comp. the tariff written in French. =Lifts and Cable Tramways= (_Ascensores_ or _Elevadores_), mostly every 3 min., from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. The fare up is called _subida_, down _descida_, return _ida e volta_. 1. From the Rua da Santa Justa (Pl. F, 4; near the Rua Aurea) to the Largo do Carmo (Pl. F, 4). Fare up 20, down 10, return 20 rs. 2. From the Calçada da Gloria (Pl. F, 3; W. side of the Avenida da Liberdade) to the Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara (Pl. E, F, 3), 20 rs. 3. From the Praça de Camões (Pl. E, 4) to São Bento (Pl. D, 3) and the Largo da Estrella (Pl. C, 2, 3), 50 rs. 4. From the Rua da Palma (near the Theatro Apollo; Pl. G, 3) to the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4); up 10, down 20 rs. 5. From the Calçada da Lavra (Pl. F, 3) to the Travessa do Thorel (Pl. F, 2, 3), near the S. end of the Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 20 rs. =Tramways= (_Carris de Ferro_) are to be preferred to cabs owing to the hilly nature of the town and the badly paved streets. The starting point of the tramway-lines important to the traveller is the Rocio (Pl. F, 3, 4); cars proceeding hence to the S. viâ the Rua Augusta return viâ the Rua Aurea. To the W. cars follow the narrow Rua do Arsenal to the Largo do Corpo Santo (Pl. E, 5), where the line forks into an outer line skirting the quay, and an inner line (comp. the Plan); on the latter the ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ car alone passes the museum (p. 14). On both lines the ‘Belem’, ‘Algés’, or ‘Dafundo’ cars proceed to Belem (p. 14).—The terminus of the route is indicated on the boards at either end of the cars. On the return-journey, or, in the case of circular tramways, in the reverse direction, cars have different name-boards (given below in brackets). Boards in the streets bearing the word ‘_paragem_’ indicate stopping-places (beckoning necessary).—Fare, within the first zone, 30 rs.; for every addit. zone 10 rs. extra.—The three following circular lines are of special importance. 1. ‘RIO DE JANEIRO’ CAR [‘ROCIO’]: _Rocio-Avenida da Liberdade_ (Pl. F, E, 3–1; p. 11) - Rua Alexandre Herculano (Pl. E, 1) - Travessa São Mamede (Pl. E, 2) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. E, 2) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - Praça do Rio de Janeiro (Pl. E, 2, 3) - _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua do Arsenal (Pl. E, F, 5) - Rua Aurea (Pl. F, 5, 4) - Rocio. Fare all the way (_Circulação completa_) 50 rs. 2. ‘RUA GOMES FREIRE’ CAR [‘GRAÇA’]: _Rocio_ - Rua Augusta (Pl. F, 4) - Rua da Conceição (Pl. F, 5) - _Sé_ (Pl. G, 5; p. 13) - Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4; comp. p. 13) - _São Vicente de Fora_ (Pl. H, 4; p. 13) - Rua da Graça (Pl. H, 3) - Largo dos Quatro Caminhos (Pl. H, 3), returning by the same route as far as the Rua da Conceição (see above), thence viâ Rua Aurea, Rocio, Rua da Palma, Rua de São Lazaro (Pl. G, 3, 2), Rua Gomes Freire (Pl. G, 2, 1), Rua Conde de Redondo (Pl. F, 1), and the _Avenida_ (p. 11) to the Rocio. Fare 80 rs. 3. ‘LARGO DAS DUAS EGREJAS’ CAR [‘ESTRELLA’]: Upper end of _Rua Garrett_ (Pl. E, F, 4) - Rua do Alecrim (Pl. E, 4, 5) - Rua Vinte e Quatro de Julho (Pl. E, D, 5, 4) - Largo de Santos (Pl. C, 4) - Rua de São Domingos (Pl. C, 4, 3) - Rua de Buenos Ayres (Pl C, 3) - _Largo da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 3, 2) - Rua Domingos Sequeira (Pl. C, 2) - Rua Ferreira Borges (Pl. C, 2, 1) - Rua do Campo de Ourique (Pl. C, 1) - Rua São João dos Bem Casados (Pl. C, D, 1) - Rua das Amoreiras (Pl. D, 1) - Largo do Rato (Pl. D, 1) - Rua da Escola Polytechnica (Pl. D, E, 2, 3) - _Jardim Botanico_ (p. 11) - _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) - Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) - Rua Garrett. =Steamers= to and from London, Liverpool, Southampton, S. America, etc. (comp. pp. xviii-xx and R. 1). Also the _Messageries Maritimes_ from Bordeaux to Lisbon; the _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_ for Madeira, and the _Empreza Insulana de Navegação_ for the Azores (comp. also R. 3). Agent for the Rotterdam Lloyd, German East African, Hamburg-American, and Hamburg & S. American Lines, _E. George_ (p. 9); for the Compañía Trasatlántica, _H. Burnay & Co._ =Banks.= _London & Brazilian_, Rua do Commercio 96; _Crédit Franco-Portugais_, Rua Augusta 61; _Banco de Portugal_, Rua Aurea (entr. Rua do Commercio 148); _Weinstein & Co._, Rua do Commercio 49 (1st floor). =Theatres= (from end of Oct. to March; boxes are called _camarotes_, stalls _cadeiras_, the pit _platéa géral_). _Theatro de São Carlos_ (Pl. F, 4), Largo de São Carlos, for Italian operas and ballet; _Theatro da Republica_ (Pl. E, F, 4, 5), Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, for Spanish, Italian, or French plays and operettas; _Nacional_ (Pl. F, 3), Praça de Dom Pedro, for Portuguese plays; also several places for variety entertainments. =Bull Ring= (_Praça de Touros_; Pl. G, 1), reached from the Rocio by the ‘Campo Pequeno’ or ‘Lumiar’ tramway-cars; parties should charter cabs in good time (return-fare ca. 3000 rs.). Bull-fights, less cruel than in Spain, Sun. and holidays (Easter to the end of June); tickets at Praça dos Restauradores 18. =British Minister=, _Hon. Sir Francis H. Villiers_, Rua São Francisco de Borja 63 (Pl. B, 4).—=U. S. Minister=, _Henry T. Gage_, Largo do Carino 18 (Pl. P, 4). =Consuls.= British, _P. A. Somers Cocks_, Travessa da Ribeira Nova 26; vice-consul, _H. E. Jones_.—U. S. Consul-General, _Louis H. Aymé_, Avenida da Liberdade 196 (Pl. F, 1); vice-consul, _H. E. Bradford_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Rawes & Co._, Rua do Commercio 31 (Pl. F, 5). =Goods Agent.= _E. George_, Rua da Prata 8 (Pl. F, 5).—TOURIST AGENTS, _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rua Aurea 52 (Pl. F, 5). =Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), with cemetery (Pl. C, 2), Rua da Estrella; services at 11 & 7; chaplain, _Rev. E. P. Lewis, D. D._—_Presbyterian_ (Pl. B, 4), Rua da Arriaga 13; services at 11 & 7.30; minister, _Rev. R. M. Lithgow_. =Club.= _Royal British Club_, Rua de São Francisco de Paula 1 (Pl. B, 4), also for temporary members. =Sights.= THE CHURCHES, few of which are interesting, are open from 7 to 10 a.m., the Cathedral till 1 p.m. _Museu d’Artilheria_ (p. 14), on week-days 10–3, free. _Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes_ (p. 14), Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 11–4, free; on other days 12–2, by leave of the director obtained through the attendant. When the main door is closed the entrance is to the left, through the gateway of the barracks and the garden. _Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (p. 14), daily, exc. Frid., 12–5, free. Visitors having only a few hours at their disposal on land should avail themselves of one of the circular tramway-lines (p. 7) to obtain a general survey of the town. The _Graça Church_ (p. 13; *View) should be visited in the morning (‘Graça’ tramway); in the afternoon, _Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11) or _Estrella Church_ (p. 12). The trip to _Belem_ (p. 14) should on no account be omitted. TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon: _Praça do Commercio_ and _Rocio_ (pp. 10, 11); _Avenida da Liberdade_ (p. 11); *_Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara_ (p. 11); *_Botanic Garden_ (p. 11); _Estrella Church_ (p. 12; *View). Afternoon: _Belem_ (p. 14).—2nd. Excursion to *_Cintra_ (p. 15), requiring at least half a day.—Bull-fights, see p. 8. _Lisbon_, Portuguese _Lisbóa_, the capital of the new republic of Portugal (comp. p. 10), the see of an archbishop, a fortress, and also an important commercial city, with 357,700 inhab., lies in 38° 42′ N. lat. and 9° 11′ W. long., on the broad _Bay of the Tagus_, which forms an excellent harbour just above the comparatively narrow (1–2 M.) mouth of the river (see p. xxix). The town rises in picturesque terraces, affording many charming views, while the luxuriance of its public gardens is almost unrivalled in Europe. Lisbon is certainly a very beautiful city, and its ardent admirers have compared it even with Naples and Constantinople. The town, which is girdled by the _Estrada da Circumvallação_, a road 5 M. long, consists of several quarters. On the E. lies the old town, or _Lisboa Oriental_, on the slope of the _Collina do Castello_. On the low ground between the old town and the new is the _Cidade Baixa_, which has sprung up since the earthquake of 1755. To the W. is _Lisboa Occidental_, the modern quarter. Along the Tagus extend quays and docks, constructed in 1887, and, after a serious collapse, restored in 1894–1905. The harbour is entered by 5000 vessels annually, one-third of them being under the British flag, one-tenth under the French, and one tenth under the German. The Portuguese vessels are chiefly engaged in trading with the country’s African colonies and with S. America. The ancient name of Lisbon was _Ulisipo_ or _Olisipo_, which led early Greek travellers and scholars to connect the place, but erroneously, with the legends of Ulysses. Under the Romans, thanks to its splendid harbour, it ranked as the second city in Lusitania, and alternately with Mérida, the capital, was frequently the residence of the Roman governors. From 407 to 585 it was occupied by the Alans, and from 585 to 715 by the Visigoths, and after the battle of Veger de la Frontera (711) it fell into the hands of the Moors, who called it _Aloshbuna_ or _Lishbuna_. In 1147 it was retaken by king _Affonso Henriques_, aided by an army of Crusaders. The bulk of these were Englishmen; and thus the siege of Lisbon is doubly interesting as it was ‘the first instance of the close connection between the two nations (England and Portugal) which has lasted down to the present century’ (H. M. Stephens). The importance of Lisbon began under _Affonso III._ (1248–79), who transferred the royal residence hither from Coimbra (1260). The great discoveries made by the Portuguese at the end of the 15th cent., and the conquest of India by _Francisco d’Almeida_ (d. 1510) and _Affonso de Albuquerque_ (d. 1515), greatly benefited the capital, which soon became the richest town in Europe, and recovered rapidly even from the effects of the earthquakes of 1531 and 1575. But the sixty years of Spanish dominion (1580–1640), the defeats of the Spanish and Portuguese fleets in the war with Holland, and the loss of India were severe trials. The earthquake of 1755 laid half the city in ruins. The beginning of the 19th cent. brought the French invasion, the removal of the royal residence to Rio de Janeiro, the Peninsular War, the loss of Brazil, and the utter decadence of Lisbon. Since the period of revolutions, and since the partial bankruptcy of the country in 1892, Lisbon has again risen from a state of decay to be a great and handsome city, thanks largely to the initiative of the German _Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Kohary_, consort of _Queen Maria II._, and to his sons, _Pedro V._ (1853–61) and _Luis I._ (1861–89). Party strife in the next reign led to the dictatorship of the minister _João Franco_, and on 1st Feb. 1908 Lisbon witnessed the assassination of _Carlos I._ and the crown-prince _Luis Philippe_ (comp. p. 14). Carlos’s second son then ascended the throne as _Manuel II._ He had, however, only reigned two years when the establishment of the Republic forced him to go into exile (5th Oct., 1910). President of the provisional government _Theophilo Braga_. The republican colours are green and red. a. Cidade Baixa, Lisboa Occidental and Oriental. Most of the public buildings in Lisbon, erected almost exclusively after the earthquake of 1755, are situated in the =Praça do Commercio= (Pl. F, 5). In the centre of the square rises an _Equestrian Statue of Joseph I._ (1750–77); on the S. side is the _Caes das Columnas_, a quay affording a superb view of the bay of the Tagus, with its busy shipping, and of the S. bank (Outra Banda), with the castle-hill of Palmella in the distance. To the N. of this square begins the rectangularly planned =Cidade Baixa= (‘lower city’), once a bay of the Tagus, the three chief streets of which, running to the N., are the Rua Augusta, spanned by a triumphal arch, the Rua d’Ouro or Aurea (to the left), and the Rua da Prata (to the right). These streets afford interesting glimpses of the towering masses of the houses of Lisboa Occidental (to the left), with the Carmo church, and of Lisboa Oriental (to the right), with the cathedral and the castle of St. George. At the N. end of the Rua Augusta and the Rua Aurea lies the— PRAÇA DE DOM PEDRO QUARTO (Pl. F, 3, 4), commonly called =O Rocío=, one of the chief tramway stations (p. 7). Owing to the peculiar wavy pattern of its mosaic pavement the Rocio has received from the British sailors the nickname ‘Roly-poly Square’. The square is adorned with two bronze fountains and a marble column bearing a bronze _Statue of Pedro IV._ (d. 1834; emperor of Brazil, 1826–31). Above the S.W. corner of the square rises on massive substructures the picturesque ruined church of _Igreja do Carmo_, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. We may reach it by the ‘ascensor’ No. 1 (p. 7). On the N. side rises the _Theatro Nacional_ (p. 8). The _Market_ in the adjacent Praça da Figueira (Pl. F, 4), to the E., deserves a visit in the early morning. From the W. side of the theatre we proceed past the _Central Station_ (p. 6) to the *=Avenida da Liberdade= (Pl. F, E, 3–1), a magnificent promenade, 100 yds. wide and more than ½ M. long, with luxuriant vegetation, especially palms, and affording charming views. It is most frequented on Sundays and holidays towards evening, when the fashionable world may be seen driving and riding. At the beginning of the Avenida is the Praça dos Restauradores, with the _Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal_, recalling the revolt of 1640, when the yoke of the Spanish ‘Intrusos’ was shaken off. To the left, at the beginning of the Avenida Promenade, is the steep Calçada da Gloria, through which a funicular tramway (No. 2; p. 7) ascends to the *=Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara= (Pl. E, F, 3), where we enjoy a magnificent view of the bay, to the S., and of Lisboa Oriental, with St. George’s Castle and the churches of Graça and do Monte (p. 13), to the E. Far below lie the Avenida da Liberdade, the Central Station, the Rocio, and the Baixa. From the S. angle of the gardens the Rua do Mundo (Pl. E, F, 3, 4) descends to the Largo da Misericordia, and past the Jesuit church of _São Roque_, a sumptuous late-Renaissance edifice by Fil. Terzi, an Italian architect (1566), to the Praça de Luis de Camões (p. 12). We proceed, however, to the N.W. of the Alameda and follow the Rua de Dom Pedro Quinto to the— PRAÇA DO RIO DE JANEIRO (Pl. E, 2, 3), with a fountain and attractive pleasure-grounds, occupying the highest site in =Lisboa Occidental=. From the W. angle of the grounds we obtain a fine view of the Estrella church (p. 12) and the Tagus. Proceeding in the same direction we next follow the _Rua da Escola Polytechnica_ to the POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL (Pl. E, 2), which comprises an interesting _Natural History Museum_ (entrance on the N.W. side), an _Observatory_, and a _Meteorological Station_. To the Polytechnic belongs also the— *=Botanic Garden= (Pl. E, 2; open to the public), founded in 1875, and for luxuriance of vegetation the finest in Europe. The lower part of the garden contains a magnificent avenue of palms and numerous southern plants. It is reached by a road from the S.E. angle of the Polytechnic, and there is a side-entrance in the Rua Nova da Alegria. In the upper part are the _Estufas_ or greenhouses. We descend to a lower exit of the garden opening into the Avenida, cross the latter and ascend by the Ascensor da Lavra (p. 7) to the E. town. From the _Campo dos Martyres da Patria_ (Pl. F, G, 2), the terminus of the funicular, the tramway ‘Santo André’ (infrequent service), or the circular line ‘Graça’ below its E. side, lead to the Rua da Palma (funicular No. 4, p. 7). Thereafter through Lisboa Oriental, see below. We may travel also by the ‘Graça’ tramway (in returning called ‘Rua Gomes Freire’) in the reverse direction, starting from the Sé Patriarchal and proceeding to the Nossa Senhora da Graça church on the way out, and descend by the funicular. From the Botanic Garden the ‘Estrella’ tramway brings us viâ the LARGO DO RATO (Pl. D, 1) to the _Aqueducto das Aguas Livres_, constructed in 1729–49. It leads us farther to _Buenos Ayres_, the high-lying W. quarter of the city, to the vicinity of the cemeteries, and to the _Jardim da Estrella_ (Pl. C, 2). The =Estrella Church= (Pl. C, 3), officially known as the _Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús_, was built in 1779–96. It is crowned with a lofty dome over the crossing, and its interior is sumptuously fitted up. The *ASCENT OF THE DOME (entrance by 5th door on the right; fee 100 rs.) amply repays the fatigue. The stairs in the N.W. tower ascend first to the flat roof of the church, where we already have a fine view. We then pass through the double lining of the dome into a gallery surrounding its interior. A ladder finally leads to the _Lantern_, the view from which (best in the afternoon) is the most extensive in Lisbon and includes the whole of the city, the S. bank of the estuary, and the ocean. The Jardim da Estrella is flanked on the W. by the Rua da Estrella which ascends to the =English Cemetery= (_Cemiterio dos Inglezes_; Pl. C, 2; visitors ring; fee 50–100 rs.), laid out in 1717, the oldest Protestant burial-ground in Portugal. It contains the grave of _Henry Fielding_ (1707–54), author of the immortal ‘Tom Jones’. Here too is the _English Church_ (p. 9). To return from this point we take the funicular No. 3 (p. 7), past the _Palacio das Côrtes_ (Pl. D, 3; Chamber of Deputies), to the PRAÇA DE LUIS DE CAMÕES (Pl. E, 4; pron. Kamŏengsh), which is embellished with a monument of the famous poet _Camões_ (1524–80), the author of the Lusiads, a great national epic celebrating the noble deeds of his countrymen. From the Praça de Camões we return through the RUA GARRETT and the Rua do Carmo (Pl. F, 4), the busiest streets in the town, with the best shops, to the Rocio (p. 11). * * * * * Time permitting, we may now pay a short visit to =Lisboa Oriental=, which is best reached by the funicular line No. 4 (p. 7). From the terminus in the Largo da Graça (Pl. H, 3, 4) we pass round the old Graça monastery (now barracks) to the church of— NOSSA SENHORA DA GRAÇA (Pl. G, H, 3, 4; 262 ft.), situated on a hill which affords a fine view of Lisboa Occidental and the lower town, while the harbour is concealed by St. George’s Castle (see below). We now return to the barracks just mentioned and enter the Rua da Graça to the N., whence the Travessa do Monte leads immediately to the left to the (5 min.) chapel of NOSSA SENHORA DO MONTE (Pl. G, H, 3; 328 ft.). The extensive *View from this point embraces the greater part of Lisbon, the harbour, the S. bank, and the region to the N.E. as far as Santarém. From the Rua da Graça the circular tramway ‘Rua Gomes Freire’ descends to the old Augustinian monastery of =São Vicente de Fóra= (Pl. H, 4), now the seat of the Patriarch of Lisbon. The church, a late-Renaissance building of 1582, lost its dome in the earthquake of 1755. The cloisters contain the _Pantheon Real_, the burial-place of the Portuguese monarchs of the House of Braganza from the time of John IV. (d. 1656) onwards. We take the same circular tramway-line as far as the Largo do Contador Mór (Pl. G, 4). Thence we walk through the Travessa do Funil to the Rua do Chão de Feira, and through the St. George’s Gateway to the CASTELLO DE SÃO JORGE (Pl. G, 4), an ancient Moorish stronghold and once a royal residence, but now used as barracks and a military prison, where we apply at the guard-house for leave to see the fine view from the S. Terrace. If so disposed we may descend to the cathedral, which stands about halfway up the castle-hill and is known as the— =Sé Patriarchal= (Pl. G, 5), the oldest church in Lisbon, founded in 1150, but rebuilt in the Gothic style in the 14th cent., and almost entirely modernized after the earthquake of 1755. From the cathedral the Rua da Conceição brings us back to the lower town. b. The Streets on the Tagus. Belem. In the Rua da Alfándega, a few paces to the E. of the Praça do Commercio (p. 10), rises the church of— =Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha= (Pl. ‘C.V.’; G, 5). The *Façade, in the richest ‘Emmanuel style’ (see p. 14), is a relic of the church of _Nossa Senhora da Misericordia_, which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. A little farther on, between Nos. 42 and 44 we get a glimpse of the _Casa dos Bicos_, built in the 16th cent. by Braz, a son of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10). It derives its name from the facetted stones of the façade (‘bico’ meaning beak or point). All the electric tramways proceed farther to the _Arsenal do Exército_ (Pl. H, 4, 5), containing the _Artillery Museum_ on the first floor (adm., see p. 9). From the N.W. corner of the Praça do Commercio, where king Carlos and the crown-prince were brutally assassinated in 1908, the Rua do Arsenal leads to the Largo do Municipio (Pl. F, 5), in the centre of which stands a so-called _Pelourinho_, or pillory, as a symbol of the civic jurisdiction. The tramway ‘Santo Amaro Pampueha’ passes the =Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes= (Pl. B, C, 4; adm., see p. 9), Rua das Janellas Verdes 57, which contains art-industrial collections and a picture-gallery. (Note in Room G, on the N. wall, No. 282, St. Jerome, by _Alb. Dürer_.) The outer line, skirting the Tagus and affording fine views, passes the _Mercado_, or fish-market (Pl. E, 5), which is worth seeing in the early morning. The two ‘Belem’ tramway-lines (Algés and Dafundo) lead through the suburb of _Junqueira_ to that of =Belem= (Brit. vice-consul, C. J. F. Duff). The Praça de Dom Fernando with a bronze statue, 13 ft. in height, of Affonso de Albuquerque (p. 10) is adjoined on the N. by the PAÇO DE BELEM. In the S.E. corner of the building is the _Museu Nacional dos Coches_ (adm., see p. 9), with about thirty historical state-carriages. Farther to the W. we reach in 5 min. the PRAÇA DE VASCO DA GAMA, with the famous— **=Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem= (Bethlehem; tramway from the Praça do Commercio, Pl. F5, in ca. ½ hr.). This Hieronymite monastery, founded in 1499 in memory of Vasco da Gama’s voyage of discovery, but used as an orphanage (_Casa Pia_) since 1834, is still, in spite of infelicitous alterations, the most brilliant example of the fantastic ‘Emmanuel style’ (Arte Manuelina), of the time of Emmanuel I. the Great, a picturesque blend of late-Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance features with _motifs_ from the gorgeous edifices of the East Indies. The church of _Santa Maria_, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, the burial-place of king Emmanuel and his successors, has a superb portal by João de Castilho (sculptured by Nicholas ‘the Frenchman’), which, according to Mr. Fergusson, resembles in design and detail the chapel at Roslin (see Baedeker’s Great Britain). The church is open from early morning till 9, and also after 2.30 p.m.—Adjoining the W. portal of the church is the entrance (where we ring; fee 100–150 rs.) to the orphanage and to the grand *_Cloisters_, the master-work of João de Castilho. On the Tagus, about ½ M. to the S.W. of the monastery, rises the *=Tower of Belem= (_Torre de Belem_), erected in 1520 to guard the mouth of the river (best viewed at a distance). [Illustration: LISBOA] [Illustration: CIRCUMVISINHANÇAS DE LISBOA] c. Excursion to Cintra. 17½ M. RAILWAY (in ¾–1 hr.). Nine expresses in summer, besides several slow trains (tranvias), but fewer in winter (fares 530, 360, 230 rs.), starting from the _Central Station_ (p. 6). The train passes through a tunnel 1½ M. long to (3¾ M.) _Campolide_ in the valley of the Alcántara. To the left are the arches of the aqueduct (p. 12). At (13 M.) _Cacem_ our line diverges to the left from the railway to Alfarellos (Coimbra and Oporto). The country becomes more hilly; eucalypti, pines, and olives abound. To the left rise the hills of Cintra. 17½ =M. Cintra.=—HOTELS. *_Gr.-Hôt. Costa_, _Netto_, _Lawrence_, _Nunes_, _Central_, déj. or D. 800 rs., some closed in winter. TRAMWAY from the station (to the left of the exit) to the Praça da Republica (20 rs.).—CABS (good; with two horses) to the Castello da Pena 2500 rs.; to the Quinta do Monserrate and back, 2000 rs.; but lower fares are often accepted on application to the cab-owner himself. If time presses, we may visit both the Castello da Pena and the Quinta de Monserrate in 4–5 hrs. (cab 4500 rs., bargaining advisable). Energetic pedestrians require scarcely more time. Donkeys, only to be recommended to gentlemen travelling alone, are a doubtful advantage, nor will those in haste find the services of drivers or guides of much avail; the usual price, after bargaining, is 400–500 rs. But it is more enjoyable to devote a forenoon to the Castello da Pena, and the afternoon to the Paço de Cintra and the Quinta. _Cintra_ (680 ft.; pop. 5000), a favourite summer resort, lies at the N. base of the granitic _Serra de Cintra_, on a spur between two ravines, amidst groves of evergreen oaks and pines, and surrounded by charming country-houses. Immediately above the little town rises a steep rock, crowned by the Moorish castle. Beyond this rises the Pena with the palace. The centre of traffic is the Praça da Republica, with its late-Gothic _Pelourinho_ (p. 14) and the main entrance to the palace. The *=Paço de Cintra=, formerly the _Royal Palace_, was begun by John I. (1383–1433) on the foundations of a Moorish palace and completed early in the 16th cent. by Emmanuel the Great. The older parts, built by Moorish hands, show a mingling of Moorish and late-Gothic elements, while the newer parts, particularly the E. wing, are in the ‘Emmanuel style’ (p. 14). The most characteristic features of the exterior are two conspicuous conical kitchen-chimneys, the horseshoe and toothed arches of the Moorish windows, and the Moorish battlemented parapet. The mural tiles and the honeycombed wooden ceilings in the interior are other survivals of the Moorish period. Visitors are shown round by the castellan. The Avenida Candido dos Reis, the road leading to the S. from the Largo of that name, brings us in ¾ hr. to the _Castello dos Mouros_ (1408 ft.). The castle consists of two parts, to which a double wall, much modernized, ascends. A visit to it takes more time than travellers in a hurry can afford. About ¼ hr. farther on we reach the Porta Principal of the _Park of Pena_, where we alight (cameras must be given up). The officials are not allowed to act as guides; the services of others should be declined. The park contains over 400 species of trees and shrubs. The *=Castello da Pena= (1732 ft.), perched on a steep rocky hill, was built in 1840–50 in the style of a mediæval castle, partly within an old monastery, by the Prince-Consort Ferd. of Coburg. The main tower is a copy of the tower of Belem (p. 14). The castle is approached by two gates and a cutting in the rock (‘corredor’). The ‘galeria’ of the castle affords delightful views. In the INTERIOR (adm. free) we pass through the Vestibule, with a pyramidal tower, into the old Convent Church, with its superb Renaissance altar brought from Belem, and into the two-storied cloisters. The apartments contain many pictures (including an example of Adr. Brouwer) and costly Hispano-Moorish majolicas. The ‘Sala de Veados’ is embellished with stags’ antlers. The *DOME above it is perhaps the finest point of view in the Serra de Cintra, but its ascent requires a steady head. The eye ranges over Estremadura, from Cape Espichel on the S.E. to the Berlengas Islands (p. 4) on the N. To the N.E. rises the huge façade of the palace of Mafra. To the E. we obtain glimpses of Lisbon and the plain to the S. of the Tagus. To the S. rises the summit of the Cruz Alta, and to the W. lies the boundless Atlantic. We now enter the _Jardim das Camelias_ or castle-garden, where the camellias, rhododendrons, and azaleas present a marvellous wealth of blossom in spring; then, passing a well and several fish-ponds, we soon reach a side-exit from the grounds, where the carriage should be ordered to meet us. The *=Cruz Alta= (1736 ft.), the highest of the Cintra hills, which affords a view similar to that from the dome of the castle, may be ascended in 20 min. by a path diverging in the park to the S., near the Porta Principal, and passing the _Statue of Vasco da Gama_. A favourite walk near Cintra is the *_Caminho de Collares_ skirting the hills. This road, bordered with beautiful evergreens, leads past charming country-houses (the _Penha Verde_ and others). On the right, about 2 M. from Cintra, is the famous— **=Quinta de Monserrate= (adm. 200, on Sun. and holidays 300 rs.), the property of Sir Fred. Cook, Visconde de Monserrate. The grounds, a visit to which takes 1–2 hrs., extend far over hill and dale, and are unique in Europe in magnificence of vegetation. From the entrance we turn to the left, cross a brook, and follow its left bank, where we enjoy a delightful view of the palace beyond the lofty tree-ferns. We then pass an artificial ruin, walk round the palace (no adm.), and re-ascend to the entrance. See also _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_. [Illustration: MADEIRA] II. MADEIRA AND THE CANARY ISLANDS. Route Page 3. Madeira 17 Excursions from Funchal, 24. 4. The Canary Islands 28 Teneriffe, 32.—Gran Canaria, 43.—Palma, 47. 3. Madeira. STEAMBOAT LINES. 1. _Union Castle Line_, steamers weekly from Southampton to Madeira in 3½ days (on their way to S. and E. Africa); fares, 1st cl. 15–17 guineas, 2nd 10–12 _gs._ (return in each case about ⅔ more); also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe and back, 18 or 12 _gs._, or, with a week’s board in one of the islands, 20 or 14 _gs._—2. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, fortnightly from Southampton (for Brazil) viâ Vigo and Lisbon to Madeira (fares 11_l._ 10_s._ or 8_l._); also fortnightly from London round voyage to Gibraltar, Tangier, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador, returning viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira (fare from 22 _gs._; single to Madeira or Canary Islands from 15 _gs._).—3. _Booth Line_ (for Brazil), thrice monthly from Liverpool to Madeira; 10_l._, return 16_l._ 10_s._—4. _Yeoward Bros. Line_, weekly from Liverpool to the Canaries calling on alternate voyages at Madeira; comp. p. 28.—5. _Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines_, from Liverpool fortnightly, for Australia or New Zealand, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe, 10 _gs._—6. _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_, from Lisbon to Madeira, 1st and 7th of each month; 5_l._ 6_s._ 3_d._ or 3_l._ 12_s._ 3_d._, return 9_l._ 0_s._ 8_d._ or 6_l._ 3_s._—7. _Empreza Insulana_, from Lisbon to Madeira, 20th of each month; 4_l._ 5_s._ or 3_l._ 3_s._ 9_d._, return 7_l._ 13_s._ or 5_l._ 14_s._ 9_d._—During the winter season the Mediterranean steamers of the White Star and Cunard Lines (p. 118) call once monthly at Madeira, and the Transports Maritimes (p. 120) occasionally touch at Madeira. The communication between Madeira and the Canary Islands (R. 4) is very defective. The _Archipelago da Madeira_, or Madeira group of islands, consists of _Madeira_ itself, the largest of the group, 37 by 14 M., _Porto Santo_ (rising 1663 ft. above the sea), 6½ by 3 M., which lies 26½ M. to the N.E. of Madeira, and the three uninhabited _Desertas_. These are the islets of _Chão_ (341 ft.), 12½ M. to the S.E. of Madeira, _Deserta Grande_ (1611 ft.), and _Bugio_ (1349 ft.). Madeira lies in 33° N. lat., between the Azores and the Canary Islands (R. 4), 620 M. to the S.W. of Lisbon, 370 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby (p. 104), and 275 M. to the N. of Teneriffe (p. 32). The population of the islands, which are said to have been uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in 1419, is now, in an area of 314 sq. M., about 150,000. All the islands are of volcanic origin. In Madeira, above the primæval diabase rock (p. 29), numerous eruptions since the miocene epoch have formed a number of extinct craters (lagoas), and as in the Canaries have raised the soil 1150 ft. above its original level. The main ridge of the island, running from W. to E., and culminating in the Pico Ruivo (‘red peak’; 6060 ft.), frequently rises in rocky pinnacles. In examining the geological structure of the island one is struck with ‘the constant mingling of solid masses of basalt and lava with strata of loose tufa and ashes, the whole being interspersed with upright dykes of lava’. The only tablelands are the _Paul da Serra_, on the W., and the smaller _Santo Antonio da Serra_, on the E. On the S. and N. slopes of the central range we observe a series of very curious and grand basins (_curraes_, sing. _curral_), which are enclosed by high rocks, and are connected with the sea by deep ravines, testifying to the enormous erosion caused by water and wind. Narrow strips of coast, strewn with rounded fragments of basalt, occur only at the mouths of the few streams, and on the largest of these lies _Funchal_, the capital of the island, on its S.W. margin. The mild and wonderfully equable climate of Madeira which since 1850 has attracted numberless invalids, chiefly English, to its shores, is due partly to its southern position, tempered by the surrounding ocean, but mainly to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which sends from the Azores an offshoot, known as the Canary branch, towards the African coast. On the sunny S. coast in particular, which is free from fog and is sheltered from the prevailing N.W. wind by the above-mentioned main ridge, the mean and almost unvarying temperature of the three winter months (at Funchal 61° Fahr.; minimum 50°) is considerably higher than that of the favourite Mediterranean resorts (Nice 48° Fahr., Ajaccio 52°, Algiers 54½°, Málaga 55°), while the summer temperature is lower (at Funchal in Aug. 70½°, maximum 92°). Dust is almost unknown. The rainfall (at Funchal 27½ inches; but more in the mountains and on the N. coast), chiefly in sudden and heavy showers, occurs mostly between October and February or March. The lowest snow-line is 1970 ft. above the sea. The relative moisture of the air (67 per cent) at Funchal is moderate, notwithstanding the proximity of the sea. As in the Canaries, the mountains are generally cloud-capped about midday, except during the prevalence of the _Leste_, the wind blowing from the African desert (p. 29), which in Madeira is not specially unpleasant. Thanks to the genial climate, the abundant winter rains, and the system of irrigation by means of open channels (_levadas_), whereby water is brought down, partly through tunnels (_furos_), from its mountain sources, the fields and gardens of Madeira, ‘Flor do Océano’, show an almost tropical luxuriance of vegetation. Side by side with pines, junipers, and deciduous European trees, such as the plane, the chestnut, the maple, the oak, and the walnut, of which there are many splendid specimens, are seen countless evergreen trees and shrubs of tropical and subtropical origin. Among these are palms, araucarias, hickory-trees, cork-trees, camphor-trees, figs, palm-lilies (yuccas; p. 233), magnolias, eucalypti, bamboos, papyrus-bushes, tree-ferns, and aloes. A few isolated dragon-trees (p. 30), the laurel (_vinhatico_), and the tilwood tree (Oreodaphne fœtens), a kind of bay-tree scarcely occurring elsewhere, are survivals of the primæval forest destroyed by the Portuguese discoverers, and now lingering only in the remote ravines and on the slopes of the N. coast. To that forest the island owes its name (madeira, ‘wood’; _Isŏla di Legname_ on old Italian charts). The hill-sides are now largely clothed with tree-like erica and broom (Genista madeirense, G. virgata, furze, etc.), large bilberry-bushes (Vaccinium madeirense), stemless ferns, and box, forming a kind of evergreen underwood. In the gardens of Funchal, enclosed by high walls, the traveller feasts his eyes, especially in May, on a most exuberant flora, comprising roses, rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, callas, bignonias, daturas, fuchsias, hydrangeas, honeysuckle, and a superb red and purple bougainvillea. The garden-walls, field-roads, and hill-terraces are everywhere overgrown with vines, but, as in the Canary Islands, the wine-culture has suffered since 1852 from the grape-disease (Oïdium Tuckeri) and from the competition of port-wine (p. 4). Among favourite brands are _Malvasia_ or _Malmsey_, a sweet dessert-wine, _Boal_, and the astringent _Sercial_. Like the Vega of Málaga (p. 89), the S. coast of Madeira yields the sugar-cane, which forms the chief crop of the island, bananas, sweet potatoes (p. 89; Portug. _batata doce_), cherimolias, coffee-plants, yams (Dioscorea batatas; Portug. _inhame_), and early vegetables, which last are exported chiefly to England. Pine-apples thrive in hot-houses only. The natives live mostly on maize and the fruit of a kind of cactus (Opuntia Tuna) which grows abundantly on all the rocks. Madeira also possesses several charming home-industries, producing embroidery, lace, silk shawls, basket-work, inlaid laurel-wood, and feather-flowers. Funchal, the only considerable harbour in the island, is an important coaling and provisioning station for steamers bound for S. Africa and for America. The heavy customs-dues, which render living dear, the over-population of the island, and the poverty of the peasantry cause a considerable emigration, chiefly to S. America. =Season and Mode of Travel.= Madeira is an admirable health and rest resort at all seasons, except perhaps for sufferers from neurasthenia or gastric disorders; but in summer the Monte (p. 24) and Camacha are preferable to the lower sites. Tourists, on the other hand, will find July, Aug., and Sept, the best months for their purpose, as the hotels are cheaper and less crowded, the days are long, and the dry weather favours excursions into the interior. At Funchal English, French, and in the larger hotels German are much spoken, but in the interior Portuguese only. Those unacquainted with the language of the natives are then dependent on the help of their horse-attendants (_arrieiros_) or guides (_guias_ or _chapas_), many of whom speak a little English. At the principal hotels and shops English money is readily received, but small Portuguese change is required for fees and other minor outlays. Beggars abound, but their importunities should invariably be disregarded (comp. also p. xxv). The streets of Funchal and the hill-roads are paved with round and slippery cobbles of basalt, against which india-rubber heels afford protection. The most popular vehicles are the bullock-cars (_carros de bois_; seated for 4 persons; 400–1000 rs. per hour). For steep descents the _carro do monte_ or _carrinho_, a kind of running sledge, is employed (400–1200 rs. per drive). The longer excursions on the extremely hilly routes so characteristic of Madeira are best taken on horseback. The horses of Andalusian race are wonderfully wiry and sure-footed (per hour 500 rs.; _arrieiro_, or attendant, 800–1000 rs. per day). Ladies and invalids use the hammock or litter (_rede_), a costly conveyance (2–4 bearers, at 500–600 rs. each per hour). Finger-posts are entirely lacking. The few _Vendas_, or country-inns, and the houses of the mountain engineers (to which travellers are admitted by leave from the office of the Obras Publicas at Funchal, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira 80) afford very primitive quarters. Travellers should therefore be provided with rugs, preserved meats, candles, insect-powder, and good drinking-water. As in the Alps, strong boots with nails and a _hasta_ or _bordão_, a long stick with an iron spike, are desirable for mountaineering. Among BOOKS on Madeira may be mentioned _A. Samler Brown’s_ Guide to Madeira, the Canary Islands, and the Azores (10th ed., London, 1910; 2_s._ 6_d._); Leaves from a Madeira Garden, by _Chas. Thomas-Stanford_ (London, 1910; 5_s._); _Yate Johnson’s_ Handbook of Madeira (London, 1885); Madeira, by _Ellen M. Taylor_ (2nd ed., London, 1889); Madeira Islands, by _A. J. D. Biddle_ (2nd ed., London, 1900; 2 vols.); Madeira, Old and New, by _W. H. Koebel_ (London, 1909; 10_s._ 6_d._); The Flowers and Gardens of Madeira, by the _Misses Du Cane_ (London, 1909; 7_s._ 6_d._). * * * * * The STEAMERS arriving from the N. skirt the W. coast of =Porto Santo= (p. 17), an island in the form of a tableland, surrounded by five reef-islets; its inhabitants (about 2300) live mostly in the little town of _Villa Baleira_. Beyond Porto Santo we obtain a superb view of the abrupt and furrowed N. coast of Madeira, with the curiously shaped Penha d’Aguia (p. 27). Farther on appears the long E. promontory of Madeira, a rocky peninsula worn by the surf, and connected with the islet of _Ponta de São Lourenço_ by a grand rocky gateway called the _Ponta do Furado_. We steer round the _Ilheo de Fora_, an outlying islet with a lighthouse (_Farol_; 348 ft.), visible from a distance of 28 M., towards which the steamers from Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Morocco direct their course, passing to the S. of Porto Santo. To the S., beyond the low island of _Chão_, rise the _Deserta Grande_ and _Bugio_, the largest of the =Desertas= (p. 17), a group of islands deserted for lack of water, and now owned by Mr. C. J. Cossart, of Madeira. British sportsmen desiring to shoot wild goats there or hunt seals (Monachus albiventer) in the ocean-caves of the Deserta Grande must obtain permission from the owner. [Illustration: MONTE FUNCHAL] The thinly peopled and somewhat bare S.E. coast of Madeira, with the three little harbours of _Caniçal_, _Machico_, and _Santa Cruz_, shows clearly the geological formation of the island (comp. pp. 17, 18). Off _Porto Novo_, in particular, we are struck with the rich colouring of the _Pico dos Iroses_, where the sombre basaltic and lava rock contrasts with brick-red strata of ashes and blood-red masses of slag. Very beautiful is the approach to the *_Bay of Funchal_, which is bounded on the E. by the bold _Cabo do Garajão_, and on the W. by the _Ponta da Cruz_, a spur of the _Pico da Ponta da Cruz_ (p. 25). From the narrow strip of coast the lanes of the old town mount the steep hill-side between the three river-beds (which are generally dry), while several groups of houses extend up to the _Pico Fort_ (p. 23) and the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ (p. 24). Farther up, stretching to the terrace of the _Monte_ (p. 24), are gardens and vineyards, from which peep many white _quintas_ or country-houses. On the plateau behind _Forte Ilheo_ (p. 24) are seen the charming gardens, with their tall araucarias, belonging to the W. suburb of Funchal, the finest residential quarter. Of the barren mountains in the background the highest peak visible from the sea is the _Pico de Santo Antonio_ (p. 25), to the N.W. of the town. =Funchál.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers cast anchor in the open roads, which are much exposed to the surf when the wind is from the S. or S.W. The passenger’s luggage, including hand-bags and small packages, is conveyed from the steamer, in charge of a _guarda fiscal_, direct to the Alfándega, or custom-house (Pl. 1; C, D, 2). Tobacco, spirits, and unused articles are specially dutiable. The charge for landing is about 500 rs. for each person, but should be ascertained beforehand, with the aid of the hotel-porter if necessary. In stormy weather passengers are landed at the _Pontinha_ (Pl. B, 3), a small pier beyond the Forte Ilheo. At the custom-house a declaration has to be filled up, for which the fee is 50 rs.; the luggage is then usually retained till midday, and when it is finally cleared the passenger gives a receipt for it (250–300 rs. more). For the transport of luggage to the hotel by bullock-car not more than 1000 rs. should be paid (an agreement should be made beforehand). The Madeira clock is 59 min. behind Greenwich time. =Hotels= (mostly in the English style; almost all with beautiful gardens; crowded from Dec. to April). In the W. suburb *REID’S PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; A, 3), situated on a basalt rock and commanding fine views, with sea-baths, etc., pens. 10–25_s._ (or in the dépendance, VILLA VICTORIA, 8_s._ 6_d._–18_s._); HOT. BELLA VISTA (Pl. b, B 2; Jones’s), above the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Maria, pens. from 8_s._; HOT. ROYAL (Pl. c, A 3; Adams’s), Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia, pens. from 8_s._; PENSION QUISISANA (Reuter’s), Estrada Monumental (Pl. A, 3), 8–12_s._; PENSION ALMEIDA (Pl. f; A, 3), by the Redondo.—In the old town, REID’S CARMO HOTEL (Pl. d; D, 1), Rua do Carmo, 8_s._ 6_d._–18_s._; GR.-HÔT. CENTRAL (Swiss landlady), near the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2); HOT. UNIVERSAL (Pl. e; C, 2), Largo da Sé, pens. 1200 rs., a Portug. house.—On the Monte (p. 24; comp. inset plan), with splendid views, MONTE PALACE HOTEL (Pl. g); HOT. BELMONTE (Pl. h); REID’S MOUNT PARK HOTEL (Pl. i), pens. 7_s._ 6_d._–10_s._; all three near the terminus. Wine, always an extra, is dear. The Agua Minero-Natural of Porto Santo is a good table-water (60 rs. per small bottle). =Apartments= for the winter in numerous quintas or villas, furnished, but without bed or table linen; from Oct. to June 40_l._ and upwards. =Restaurants.= _Phenix_, Praça da Rainha (Pl. C, 2); _Golden Gate_, Entrada da Cidade 7 (Pl. C, 2; with American bar).—ENGLISH TEA ROOMS, _Café Monaco_.—WINE. _Vaccaria do Souza_, Rua de João Tavira. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Estação Telegrapho-Postal; Pl. 5, C, 2), Entrada da Cidade. =Theatre.= _Theatro de Dona Maria Pia_ (Pl. 16; C, 2), opposite the Jardim Municipal.—Evening CONCERTS twice a week in the Jardim Municipal, etc. =Shops= in the Praça da Constituição, Rua do Aljube, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira, etc.; bargaining necessary; the prices are higher when the purchaser is attended by a guide. Pedlars often charge more than the shops.—EMBROIDERY, etc., at _Ad. v. Breymann’s_, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira 77.—WINES, etc., sold at _Breymann’s_; also by _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see below); _Cossart, Gordon, & Co._, Rua do Principe 78; _Krohn Bros. & Co._ (see below).—PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIALS, _Bazar do Povo_, Largo de São Sebastião. =Banks.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._, Rua da Alfándega 26; _Reid, Castro, & Co._, Largo de São Sebastião 5; _Banco de Portugal_, Largo da Sé; _Krohn Bros. & Co._, Rua do Carmo 2; _L. da Rocha Machado_, Rua da Alfándega 27. =Physicians.= _Dr. Grabham_, Valle Formoso; _Dr. Scott_, Quinta Perestrello; _Dr. Machado_, Rua das Mercês 1 (Pl. C, 1); _Dr. Stevens_, Villa Ramose.—CHEMISTS. _Pharmacia Central_, Rua Bettencourt 2; _Botica dos Dois Amigos_, Largo do Collegio. =Carriages= and =Horses= (p. 20) at _De Souza’s_, Rua do Bispo. Bullock-cars (p. 20) in the Entrada da Cidade; saddle-horses (poor) in the Largo de São Pedro and the Rua de João Tavira.—LITTERS (p. 20) in the Largo de São Sebastião. =Motor Cabs= in the Entrada da Cidade (tariff by zones; per drive 90–500 rs.; to Camara de Lobos and back 800 rs.). =Horse Tramway= (electric line projected) from the Praça da Constituição to the railway-station of Pombal (starting ¼ hr. before each train; 50 rs.).—RACK & PINION RAILWAY (Caminho de Ferro do Monte) from the Estação do Pombal (Pl. C, 1) viâ Levada, Livramento, Sant’ Anna, and Flamengo, to the Monte (p. 24); 7 trains daily in 20 min.; fare 300, return 400 rs. =British Consul=, _Capt. J. Boyle_, Reid’s Palace Hotel (p. 21); vice-consul, _E. Sarsfield_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see above). =Steamboat Agents.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see above) for the Union Castle, Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., Booth, Hamburg-American, and Woermann Lines, the Empreza Nacional de Navegação and the Empreza Insulana de Navegação; _Leça, Gomes, & Co._ for Yeowards Bros. Line; _Gonçalves & Co._, Rua do Conselheiro Silvestre Ribeira 2, for the Hamburg & South American Line; _J. de Freitas Martins_, Rua da Alfándega 52, for the North German Lloyd.—For the coasting service (Serviço costeiro) and pleasure-trips (Viagens de Recreio), see newspapers. =Churches.= _English_ (Pl. 4; B, 1), Rua da Bella Vista (_Rev. C. Jones Bateman, M. A._), services on Sun. at 8 and 11 a.m., and 5.30 p.m.; _Presbyterian_ (Pl. 15; C, 2), Rua do Conselheiro; _American_ (Pl. 8; C, 2), same street, lower down. =Club.= _English Rooms_, in the Rua da Praia, overlooking the sea, with library and billiard-rooms. Adm. on introduction. ONE DAY. Visit to the Monte (p. 24) in the forenoon; drive to Camara de Lobos (p. 25) in the afternoon. _Funchal_ (‘place of fennel’; pop. 25,800), situated in 32° 38′ N. lat. and 16° 55′ W. long., the capital of Madeira and the seat of the Portuguese governor and a bishop, is remarkable for the luxuriant subtropical verdure of its public grounds and private gardens. On the PRAÇA DA RAINHA (Pl. C, 2), the sea-promenade, where we have a view of the Desertas (p. 20), rise the _Palacio de São Lourenço_ (Pl. 10; the governor’s residence), several _Club Houses_, and a signalling tower called the _Pilar de Benger_ (Pl. 11; ‘Benger’s Folly’). The _Varadoures Gate_ (Pl. 12; D, 2), to the E. of the custom-house, is the sole survival of a town-wall built by the Spaniards early in the 17th cent.; adjacent is the _Fruit and Fish Market_ (Mercado; Pl. D, 2). Opposite the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2) the Entrada da Cidade, an avenue of planes, leads to the PRAÇA DA CONSTITUIÇÃO (Pl. 13; C, 2), adorned with pleasure-grounds, in the centre of the town. Adjacent on the W. is the *=Jardim Municipal= (public park; Pl. C, 2; evening concerts twice weekly, otherwise closed in the evening), with its exuberant wealth of vegetation and flowers. On the S. side is the _Theatre_ (p. 22).—To the E., in the Largo da Sé, rises the insignificant CATHEDRAL (_Sé_; Pl. C, 2), with a fine ceiling of Spanish juniper (Portuguese cedro). On the E. side of the park runs the Rua de São Francisco, leading to the long RUA DO CONSELHEIRO VIEIRA (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), or Rua da Carreira the busiest street, at the N.W. end of which (on the left) is the entrance to the _Protestant Cemetery_ (Cemiterio Britanico; Pl. 3, B 2). From the N. side of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we ascend past the church of _São Pedro_ (Pl. C, 1) and through the steep Calçada de Santa Clara to the convent-church of _Santa Clara_ (Pl. B, C, 1), where Zarco, the discoverer of Madeira, is buried.—Farther to the N. is the Calçada do Pico, whence the Rua do Castello to the left leads to the old Spanish =Pico Fort= (Forte de São João do Pico; Pl. B, 1), dating from 1632, famed for its *View. From the E. end of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we may now cross the Largo do Collegio, with the _Jesuit Church_ of that name (Pl. C, 1), to the _Camara Municipal_, or town-hall (Pl. 2; C, 1), in the Rua dos Ferreiros. At the lower end of the same street, not far from the Cathedral, is the Largo de São Sebastião (Pl. 7; C, 2), where the Saturday market is held. Crossing the neighbouring _Ribeira de Santa Luzia_ we soon reach the _Carmo Church_ (Pl. 6; D, 1).—Along the Ribeira de Santa Luzia ascends the horse-tramway (p. 22) to the station of the Monte railway, near which, to the E. (reached by the Rua do Pombal, Pl. C 1), is the _Museum_, containing valuable natural history collections and a large relief-map of the island. (Adm. on application; donation to poor-box.) In the E. suburb of _Santa Maria Maior_, beyond the Ribeira de Santa Luzia and the _Ribeira de João Gomes_, is the Campo de Dom Carlos Primeiro (Pl. D, E, 2; drilling-ground), skirting the sea, and partly planted with trees. The Spanish _Forte de São Thiago_ (Pl. E, 2; now barracks), built in 1614, was dedicated to St. James the Less (São Thiago Menor), the patron saint of Funchal. Near it is the church of _Nossa Senhora do Soccorro_ (Pl. E, 2), the scene of a great procession on 1st May. The chief streets of the =W. Suburb=, beyond the _Ribeira de São João_, flanked with pretty villas, are the RUA DA IMPERATRIZ DONA MARIA (Pl. B, 2) and the RUA DA IMPERATRIZ DONA AMELIA (Pl. A, B, 3), which last ends at the Redondo (‘round space’) near the _Ribeiro Secco_. On the S. side of the road are the _Cemetery_ (Cemiterio das Angustias; Pl. B, 2) and the _Casino Pavão_ (Pl. B, 3), with a beautiful garden extending to the abrupt coast, frequented by English and American visitors. By the sea runs the Caminho da Pontinha, leading to the _Pontinha_ (p. 21) and the harbour-battery of _Forte Ilheo_ (Pl. B, 3; ‘island fort’, Engl. _Loo Rock_). * * * * * EXCURSIONS. The RACK & PINION RAILWAY (p. 22), which at Levada station crosses the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ and the beautiful hill-promenade of that name, connects Funchal with the *=Monte= (hotels, see p. 21), a village on the hill at the back of the town, with numerous villas nestling amidst beautiful groves of planes and oaks. On a spur of the hill, close to the terminus of the railway (extension projected), rises the pilgrimage-church of _Nossa Senhora do Monte_, known by English visitors as the ‘Mount Church’ (1962 ft.). It is the scene of the Novena, a great nine-days’ church-festival held in summer. The terrace of the church (68 steps) commands a glorious *View of Funchal, the coast as far as the Cabo Girão (p. 25), and the blue ocean enlivened by its passing ships. A little below the church is a sacred well. A little to the E. of the Monte is the _Curralinho_ (‘little curral’), or _Curral dos Romeiros_ (‘pilgrims’ ravine’), overgrown with erica and vaccinium (p. 19). This miniature curral, a gorge of the _Ribeira de João Gomes_ (p. 23), gives a very imperfect idea of the grandeur of the rocky ravines (p. 18) of Madeira. Those who are pressed for time may descend to the town in 10–12 min. in a running sledge (p. 20), by the _Caminho do Monte_; but it is preferable to walk back (in 1½ hr.) by the level *_Caminho das Tilias_ which we reach by turning to the left above the church. After about ¼ M., at the beautiful _Quinta Machado_ (with a view-tower), we descend to the left by the steep _Caminho dos Saltos_ (if desired, by running sledge ordered beforehand; 600 rs.). The route leads to the S.W., past the _Quinta Olavo_, the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ (see above), and the _Quinta do Deão_, and then descends to the S.E. through the plane-avenue on the _Ribeira de Santa Luzia_ (p. 23). A *Side-path leads, above the Quinta Olavo, to the right, across the river-bed, to the church of _São Roque_ (1139 ft.; view; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.), whence we may descend by the steep Caminho de São Roque to the _Pico Fort_ and the _Clara Nunnery_ (p. 23). The Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia (p. 24) is continued by the *_Estrada Monumental_, a road which affords delightful views. It leads from the _Ponte Monumental_ (Pl. A, 3), a bridge across the Ribeiro Secco, past a number of sugar-cane plantations and vineyards, and, leaving the shore, proceeds to the S.W. above the ocean-cave of _Forja_ and the rocky islets of _Forja_ and _Gorgolho_. It then crosses the S. slope of the _Pico da Ponta da Cruz_ (863 ft.; *View), an old crater, near the promontory of that name (p. 21), and skirts the beautiful, but not very safe bathing-beach of _Praia Formosa_. Farther to the W., in full view of the bold central range backing the Gran Curral (see below), we cross the lower bridge of the _Ribeira dos Soccorridos_ and an old lava-stream to (5½ M.) =Camara de Lobos= (which may be reached by motor-cab, p. 22), a strikingly picturesque fishing-village (pop. 6200) at the E. base of the almost perpendicular *_Cabo Girão_, with a small natural harbour (_Bahia_). The best wine in the island is yielded by the slopes in the vicinity. Route to the _Gran Curral_ by _Jardim da Serra_, see p. 26. The EXCURSION TO THE GRAN CURRAL, on horseback or by litter (p. 20), takes nearly a whole day. We start early and take provisions with us. From the W. suburb (p. 24) we follow the Rua das Maravilhas and the Caminho de Santo Antonio (Pl. A, 1, 2), between garden-walls and vineyards, to the N.W. to the finely situated village of (2 M.) _Santo Antonio_ (985 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.). We descend thence to the N.W. into the side-valley of the _Ribeira do Vasco Gil_, with its pine-woods and rich pastures, and soon obtain a view towards the W., extending to the Cabo Girão (see above) and the Pico da Cruz (p. 26). We next ascend the steep side-valley of the _Ribeira da Lapa_ to the (11 M.) _Serrado Saddle_ (Eira do Serrado; about 2900 ft.), on the N.E. margin of the _Pico Serrado_ (see below). From the top of the pass we have a grand view into the great and well-watered basin of the *=Gran Curral=, or _Curral das Freiras_ (‘nuns’ valley’; once a pasture belonging to the convent of Santa Clara), enclosed by the lofty rocks of the central mountains. Far below us, above the rock-strewn bed of the _Ribeira dos Soccorridos_, we descry the village of _Livramento_ (2018 ft.), with its little church and cypress-shaded churchyard. Those who do not care to face the rugged descent to Livramento, and the steep clamber thence to the Bocca dos Namorados (p. 26), should now ascend the *=Pico Serrado= (3347 ft.; ‘sawn-off peak’), whence we survey the mountain-range from the _Pico de Santo Antonio_ (5725 ft.) and _Pico Cidrão_ (5551 ft.) to the _Pico Ruivo_ (p. 27), the _Pico Canario_ (5500 ft.), and the _Pico Grande_ (p. 26). Longer, but still grander, is the excursion to the W. margin of the Gran Curral. From the Estrada Monumental (see above) we turn to the N.W. past the _Quinta Nazareh_, nestling amidst araucarias, to the (2 M.) village of _São Martinho_ (765 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.), situated among several old craters; we then cross, to the W., the ravine of the Ribeira dos Soccorridos by the upper bridge and mount in zigzags to the (7 M.) village of _Estreito_ (1510 ft.). Our route now ascends to the N. to the (8½ M.) *_Bocca dos Namorados_ (3445 ft.), with its beautiful chestnut-wood, where we enjoy a superb view of the Gran Curral, and skirts the W. margin of the _Pico dos Bodes_ (3718 ft.) to the (10 M.) _Cova da Cevada_, a basin affording a similar view. We next follow the top of the hill to the N.W., between the Gran Curral and the E. side-valleys of the _Ribeira Brava_ (see below), to (13 M.) the *_Bocca dos Corregos_ (4466 ft.), a narrow ridge at the foot of the perpendicular rocks of the _Pico Grande_ or _Rocha Alta_ (5420 ft.). An interesting return-route is afforded by descending from the Cova da Cevada across _Jardim da Serra_ (2523 ft.) and past the _Pico da Cruz_ (3288 ft.) to _Camara de Lobos_ (p. 25). The EXCURSION TO RABAÇAL can, if time presses, be accomplished in one day. It is best to go by steamboat to Calheta (3 times weekly, in 1½–2 hrs.; or a small private steamer may be hired of Messrs. Blandy Bros., p. 22). The steamer calls first at _Camara de Lobos_ (p. 25), then skirts the sombre rocky slopes of _Cabo Girão_ and steers past _Fajãa dos Padres_, a village famed for its wine, to the village of _Ribeira Brava_ (inn), where we obtain, through the curral of that name, a very striking glimpse of the _Serra d’Agua_ (4610 ft.) and the Pico Grande (see above). We next pass the beach of _Lugar de Baixo_, formed by a landslip in 1803, the beautiful cape, _Ponta do Sol_, and the village of _Magdalena_, peeping out of vines and bananas amidst the grandest scenery of the S. coast. At the village of =Calheta= (bad landing-place; no inn) we may find litters if desired (each man 800–1000 rs. per day), and we obtain provisions and torches (fachos, at 50 rs.). We now walk chiefly through pine-wood viâ _Salão_ to the (1½ hr.) narrow and wet tunnel (about 650 yds. in length) of the lower _Levada Nova do Rabaçal_. At the N. end of it we obtain a very striking view of the highest part of the valley of the _Ribeira da Janella_, richly wooded with evergreen, oaks and laurels. A path over the rocks (which needs a steady head) connects this levada (or conduit) with the upper _Levada Velha_, constructed in 1836–60, and with (9½ M.) the engineers’ houses of =Rabaçal= (3750 ft.; adm., see p. 20; fee). A little to the N.E., on the so-called _Balcão_, we enjoy an excellent survey of the *_Waterfall of the Risco_, which plunges from a rock, 330 ft. high, into a ravine overgrown with climbing plants and ferns, and a little lower down provides the water for the old conduit. Crossing the viaduct of the latter, we skirt the new conduit, and in a few minutes reach another luxuriantly overgrown ravine, that of the *_Vinte e Cinco Fontes_, where no fewer than twenty-five waterfalls issue from a narrow basin. From Rabaçal we may ascend towards the E. (with a guide) to the (2 hrs.) plateau of _Paul da Serra_ (4656 ft.; ‘mountain swamp’), where fogs often prevail, and the two _Tanquinhos Houses_ (about 4900 ft.; used by the engineers; poor quarters). Near them rise the _Pico dos Tanquinhos_ (5260 ft.) and the *_Pico Ruivo do Paul_ (5388 ft.), both of which afford grand views of the mountains. Scarcely less repaying is the two days’ EXCURSION TO SANTA ANNA on the N. coast, to which a third day may be added for the ascent of the Pico Ruivo or the Pico Areeiro. We start from the Campo da Barca at Funchal (Pl. D, 1) and follow the Estrada do Conde Carvalhal (Pl. E, 1), which ascends to the N.E. in windings to (3¾ M.) _Palheiro do Ferreiro_ (1857 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 1200 rs.), the finest quinta in the island, the property of Mr. John Blandy of Funchal (adm. on application). Farther on we follow the road, uphill and downhill, to (6 M.) Camacha (2369 ft.; no inn; bullock-car 2500 rs.), a well-to-do village of basket-makers in a charming wooded region, with many villas owned by English residents in Funchal. Beyond the _Pico dos Iroses_ (p. 21) the road, now less attractive, crosses the gorges of the _Ribeira de Porto Novo_ and _Ribeira de Santa Cruz_, and then, turning to the N., reaches (13 M.) _Santo Antonio da Serra_ (2320 ft.), a poor village on a grassy tableland. We descend thence to the N.W. into a sequestered valley carpeted with flowers (Amaryllis Belladonna, etc.), where a rough path leads to the (15½ M.) _Portella Pass_ (2021 ft.), which commands a superb *View of the mountains at the head of the Metade Valley (see below), of the N.E. coast from the Penha d’Aguia (see below) to the Ponta de São Lourenço (p. 20), and of the island of Porto Santo (p. 20). We now descend, at first by a zigzag path, through vineyards and sugar-cane plantations, to (18 M.) _Porto da Cruz_ (no inn), a picturesque little seaport at the S.E. base of the abrupt *_Penha d’Aguia_ (1949 ft.; ‘eagle-rock’), the most curiously shaped hill in the island. We next ascend the saddle to the S. of the Penha d’Aguia, noteworthy for its marvellously rich vegetation, and descend the ravine of the _Ribeiro Frio_ (see below) to _Fayal_, a village not far from the charming _Pescaria_, a little bay to the N.W. of the Penha d’Aguia. The church-terrace here affords a grand survey of the valleys of the Ribeiro Frio, the Ribeiro da Metade, and the Ribeiro Secco (all mentioned below). From Fayal we then cross the _Cortadas Pass_, or _Bocca do Cortado_ (1985 ft.), to (24 M.) Santa Anna (1408 ft.; Hot. Figueira, very fair; pop. 3200), a village well adapted for some stay, the capital of the _Comarca de Santa Anna_, the most fertile region in the island (sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, yams, etc.). From Santa Anna a rough mule-track, very indistinct at places, ascends past the curious basaltic _Homem em Pé_ (‘man on foot’), and lastly over the saddle by the _Encumeada Alta_ (5948 ft.), to the top of the _Pico Ruivo_ (6060 ft.; p. 18), which commands a most imposing, but seldom very clear panorama of the central chain, part of the Gran Curral (p. 25), and the E. half of the island. Turning back from Santa Anna, we first wend our way towards the S. to the _Cova da Roda_, where we again overlook the N.E. coast as far as the Portella Pass and the Porto da Cruz; we then cross the _Ribeiro Secco_ and the (29½ M.) _Cruzinhas Ridge_, and descend into the valley of the *_Ribeiro da Metade_, a gorge vying in grandeur with the Gran Curral. A zigzag path (‘Quatorze Voltas’) ascends thence to the little venda (inn) of _Cedro Gordo_, and then crosses the _Serra de Caramuja_ into the (33 M.) valley of the _Ribeiro Frio_, with its splendid groves of tilwood trees (see p. 19), laurel, and erica. Above the village of that name rises the _Balcão_, a rock of basalt (near the not easily accessible _Levada do Furado_), where we have a grand *View of the Metade Valley with mountain-background. Our route winds up the rocks of the Feiteiras (‘ferns’) and the _Pouso Saddle_, with its fine views, to the (34½ M.) _Pouso_ or _Poïzo Refuge_ (4603 ft.), situated on a dreary plateau. From the Pouso Refuge we may without difficulty climb the _Pico Areeiro_ (5893 ft.; 1¼–1½ hr.), a famous point of view, but almost always capped with clouds. The bridle-path ascends past the _Observatorio_; we may then descend direct to the Vista dos Navios. The next part of our route, from the Pouso Refuge to the Monte (p. 24), is uninteresting. From the _Vista dos Navios_ (‘view of ships’), whence the bay of Funchal is visible, the track descends to the head of the valley of the _Ribeira de João Gomes_ (p. 23), rounds the E. slope of the _Pico do Arrebentão_ (3842 ft.), to which point a running sledge (p. 20) may be ordered from Funchal, and then descends rapidly, partly in windings, to the (39 M.) _Monte_. Thence to (41½ M.) _Funchal_, see p. 24. 4. The Canary Islands. STEAMBOAT LINES. 1. _Union Castle Line_, fortnightly from London and Southampton, touching alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; fares to either, 1st cl. 14–16, 2nd 9–11 _gs._ (return about ⅔ more). For summer tours, comp. p. 17.—2. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, see p. 17.—3. _Peninsular & Oriental Branch Service_, from London monthly for Australia, calling at Las Palmas; 12_l._, return (tickets interchangeable with No. 5 from Teneriffe) 20_l._—4. _Bucknall Line_, monthly from London to Teneriffe; 10_l._, return 18_l._—5. _Aberdeen (Thompson’s) Line_, from London and Plymouth monthly for Australia, calling at Teneriffe; 13_l._, return (also valid for No. 3) 22_l._—6. _Aberdeen (Rennie’s) Line_, from London, about once every 10 days, for S. and E. Africa, calling alternately at Las Palmas and Teneriffe; 10 or 8_l._, return 18 or 14_l._—7. _German East African Line_, once every 3 weeks from Southampton for S. Africa, calling at Las Palmas and Teneriffe, 12_l._ 10_s._ or 7_l._ 10_s._; no return-fares, but an abatement of 20 per cent is allowed on the fare back to Southampton, either by this line, by the Woermann, or by the Hamburg-American Line.—8. _Woermann Line_, monthly from Dover to Las Palmas, and monthly to Teneriffe; fares and abatement for return, same as No. 7.—9, 10. _New Zealand Line_ and _Shaw, Savill, & Albion_, each monthly from London and Plymouth for Teneriffe, 14_l._ or 11_l._ 10_s._; interchangeable return-ticket 22 or 17_l._—11. _Yeoward Bros. Line_, from Liverpool, weekly pleasure cruises to Teneriffe, Grand Canary, and back (10–12 _gs._), also single tickets (6–8 _gs._).—12. _Natal Line_, from London fortnightly for S. Africa calling at Las Palmas, fare 8 _gs._, return 15_l._ 2_s._ 6_d._—13. _Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines_, see p. 17.—There are also steamers to the Canary Islands from Cadiz (see p. 58), Genoa (see p. 114), Naples, and Trieste (see p. 425).—It should be noted that almost all the British lines have recently raised their fares by ten per cent in consequence, it is said, of a rise in the price of coal. Inquiry as to this ‘surtax’ should therefore be made in every case.—The direct steamers perform the voyage (1707 M. from Southampton to Teneriffe) in 5–6 days; the coasting steamers (viâ Oporto, Lisbon, etc.; about 2250 M.) take much longer. In addition to the above-mentioned steamers communication among the islands themselves is effected by the small cargo-boats of the _Compañía de Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios_ which ply 9 times monthly between Teneriffe and Las Palmas in 6 hrs. (fare 20 or 15 pesetas); and by those of the _Servicio de Pailebotes_ which ply weekly from Teneriffe to Las Palmas, and weekly to Santa Cruz de la Palma. Inquiry as to the sailings, which often vary, should be made on the spot. The Spanish cuisine on board these local boats is not very inviting. The Canary Islands (_Islas Canarias_ or _Afortunadas_, _i.e._ ‘fortunate islands’), the _Makáron Nésoi_ or _Insulae Fortunatae_ of antiquity, in 27° 30′ to 29° 26′ N. lat., and 13° 15′ to 18° 2′ W. long., lie off the coast of Mauretania, the nearest point being Cape Juby (p. 104). There are in all thirteen islands, forming a Spanish province of a total area of 3305 sq. M., with a population of 364,000. They consist of two groups. The E. group is composed of _Lanzarote_ (rising to 2231 ft. above the sea), _Fuerteventura_ (2789 ft.), and five smaller islands (_Alegranza_, _Graciosa_, etc.); to the W. group belong _Gran Canaria_ (6400 ft.), _Teneriffe_ (12,175 ft.; once the meridian used by the Spaniards and the Dutch), _Gomera_ (4366 ft.), _Palma_ (7737 ft.), and _Hierro_ or _Ferro_ (4643 ft.), the meridian used by France since the time of Louis XIII. (1634). Teneriffe, Gran Canaria, and sometimes Palma are the islands usually visited by tourists; the others chiefly attract botanists and geologists. [Illustration: ISLAS CANARIAS] [Illustration: TENERIFE] The Canaries, supposed by some geographers to form part of the submerged continent of _Atlantis_, and by others to have been outlying spurs of the Atlas of Morocco (p. 93), have the same geological formation as Madeira (see pp. 17, 18, 19). ‘In Fuerteventura especially there occur masses of slag and lava, thrown up by countless eruptions, superimposed on the diabase formation, which is still visible in many places; and in Teneriffe we find phonolithic and trachytic rocks as well as the basaltic. Grand old craters (_calderas_) exist in Ferro, Gran Canaria, and most of all in Palma and Teneriffe. The enormous basin of the _Cañadas_ in Teneriffe has been almost entirely filled up with later streams of lava and scoriæ, which have formed a distinct volcanic cone, the great _Pico de Teide_, 12,175 ft. in height.’ The last considerable eruptions were those of 1677 in Palma, of 1730–36 and 1824 in Lanzarote, and of 1705, 1706, 1796, and 1798 on the N.W. coast of Teneriffe, all of which caused great havoc. On the occasion of the eruption of 1909 in Teneriffe a large lava-stream, accompanied by the emission of vapour and stones from the central crater (see p. 41), burst forth near the foot of the Chahorra (p. 42) and advanced in a N.W. direction towards Santiago and El Tanque but came to rest before reaching these villages. There was little damage and no loss of human life. In the W. islands, which like Madeira rise very abruptly from the sea, the effects of erosion in the broad valleys, with their rich soil, as well as in the deep ravines (_barrancos_) of more recent origin, are specially noticeable. The climate of the Canaries is remarkable for the striking contrasts prevailing between the E. and the W. groups on the one hand, and between the lower and the higher levels on the other. In the almost treeless islands of _Lanzarote_ and _Fuerteventura_ (62 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby) years sometimes elapse without rainfall, while the dreaded _tiempo del sur_, the hot and extremely dry wind from the Sahara, covers them with dust and sand and often brings swarms of locusts. Even more disastrous for agriculture are the sandy dunes or coast-hills, thrown up by the currents off the African shores, the sand of which is driven inland by violent N. winds. The _Gran Canaria_, on the other hand, though by no means free from the locust pest, holds an intermediate position in point of climate and scenery between the more continental E. group of islands and the almost wholly oceanic W. group. Owing to the influence of the gulf-stream (p. 18) and the zone of high air-pressure prevalent in the W. Canaries in winter, the N. coast of _Teneriffe_ and the islands of _Gomera_ and _Palma_ enjoy a remarkably mild and equable winter climate (the mean temperature of winter at Puerto Orotava being 60° Fahr. and the minimum 51°). In the region tempered by the trade-wind clouds, which gather at a height varying from 2300 to 5000 ft. above the sea, even the summer temperature is quite bearable; but on the high mountains, above the cloud-zone, the air is extremely dry, and the burning heat of the day is suddenly followed, as in the tropics, by a severe chill. The rainfall at Santa Cruz de Tenerife averages 12 inches, at Santa Cruz de la Palma 14 in., at Puerto Orotava 17 in., at Laguna 22 inches. The lowest snow-line is about 3300 ft. The vegetation of the W. islands, the Eldorado of botanists, surpasses that of Madeira in variety, though not in luxuriance; but it is confined to the forest-zone in the region of the trade-wind clouds, and to the low ground irrigated with the aid of these clouds, where the soil consists of disintegrated diabase, tufa, and lava. On the other hand large tracts of land, especially in the Gran Canaria and on the S. and E. coasts of Teneriffe, are entirely destitute of vegetation, even in winter, while in summer the verdure of the cultivated land is often covered with a mantle of grey dust. The Canary Islands, together with Madeira and the Azores, have been described as a region ‘where the tertiary flora, destroyed in Europe during the glacier epoch, has survived and developed, at least since the pliocene age, in insular solitude’. To the primæval African flora, the same as that of the original ‘diabasic Canaries’, belong in particular the stately Canary pine (Pinus canariensis), several species of laurel, such as the Laurus canariensis, the _viñatigo_ (Persea indica), the aloe, the oleander-leaved Kleinia neriifolia, the cactus-like euphorbias, the _balo_ (Plocama pendula), and the famous dragon-tree (Dracæna Draco). Besides the endemic trees and plants are others of very early origin, the seeds of which were originally brought over from India or America by the gulf-stream. During the Spanish period countless other plants, now cosmopolitan, were imported from America, fruit-trees from Europe, and shrubs from the Mediterranean, which last, favoured by the climate, develop into bushy trees. In the gardens, which are mostly enclosed by high walls, we are struck with the gorgeous wealth of bougainvilleas, gloxinias, poinsettias, bignonias, daturas, walbergias, passifloras, and many other flowers. In the lower and more tropical districts grow, side by side, bananas (_plátanos_), tomatoes, sugar-cane (_caña de azúcar_), yams (Span. _ñame_), tobacco, oranges and lemons, prickly-pear (Opuntia Tuna), coffee-plants, Peruvian pepper-trees (_pimenteros_), E. Indian bread-fruit, mango and camphor trees, eucalypti, cork-trees, tamarisks (_tarajales_), araucarias, magnolias, fig-trees, Japanese medlars, palms (about 25 varieties), notably the superb Canary palm (Phœnix canariensis or Jubæ Webb), the date-palm (p. 171), the royal palm (Oreodoxa regia), and, in Palma, the cocoa-nut palm. The vineyards, yielding the famous _Malmsey_ (p. 19) and _Vidueño_ wines, rise on the S. side of Teneriffe from the lower land to a height of 4070 ft. above the sea-level. In the upper cultivated regions the chief crops and fruits are wheat, potatoes, lupins, maize, chestnuts, walnuts, and, among other European fruits, peaches. On the rocky sides of the barrancos occur everywhere the aloe, the cactus-like Euphorbia canariensis (Span. _cardón_), the tabayba (Euphorbia Regis Jubæ), the orchilla lichen (Roccella tinctoria; woad), and Sempervivum (house-leek; some 60 varieties). At the bottom of the barrancos and in the cloud-region we encounter beautiful underwood, composed of evergreen myrtles and laurels, the strawberry-tree (Arbutus canariensis), ericas, stemless ferns, and a few climbing plants. Above the level of the trade-wind clouds we may still meet with the cistus, the Canary pine (up to 7050 ft. above the sea), the white Cytisus proliferus (Span. _escobón_), and the Adenocarpus frankenoides (Span. _codeso_), a kind of gorse. The Alpine retama (Spartocytisus supranubius; Span. _retama blanca_), a kind of broom, the commonest plant in the Cañadas, grows on the Peak up to a height of 10,300 ft.; but a few mosses and lichens alone reach the summit. The fauna of the Canaries is remarkably poor. The characteristic bird is the canary (Serinus canariensis), which, as in Madeira, is of a greenish-grey colour, while the yellow canaries are imported. Mosquitoes, especially on the E. and S. coasts of the islands, fleas, and flies, including some whose bite is very unpleasant, abound in summer. The more important fish are cod, tunny, and sardines. Chief among domestic animals is the goat. Camels were introduced from the continent in 1405. The islands, which were probably known to the Carthaginians and Greeks, were for a time occupied by king Juba II. (p. 244) with a view to the manufacture of purple dye from the juice of the Orchilla (see above). At that period the population consisted chiefly of the so-called _Guanches_ (from _guan_, son, and _Chenerfe_, Teneriffe), whose culture down to the middle ages was still that of the flint age, while their inscriptions are Libyan in character. In 1402–96 the islands were conquered, first by the Normans, under Jean de Betancourt, at the instance of the kings of Castile, and later by the Spaniards, with the result that the Guanches, in spite of their heroic resistance, were largely exterminated or sold into slavery. A few survivors still lingered in their cave-dwellings, as at Atalaya (p. 46) and Artenara (p. 46), but others intermarried with Moorish immigrants (1405), and, in the Spanish period, with Norman, S. Spanish, and Irish settlers. Their language has been extinct since the 17th century. A few peculiarities of the present population, which somewhat resembles that of S. Spain and of the W. Indies, survive in the costume of the peasants, consisting of a white blanket (_matta_) wrapped round the body like a shepherd’s cloak, in their quaint old pottery, in the whistling language of Gomera, and in the national _gofio_, a kind of porridge of maize and wheat. The Grand Canary contains also several villages of negroes, descendants of the slaves on the sugar-plantations. Among the foreigners there are 2100 English, 600 French, and 600 Germans. Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Puerto de la Luz near Las Palmas, the chief ports of the Canaries, as also Puerto Orotava (p. 39), Santa Cruz de la Palma, and others, all declared free harbours in 1852, are rising places and compete with Madeira in provisioning the ocean steamers. The trade is in British, Spanish, and German hands. The chief exports are bananas, tomatoes, early potatoes and other vegetables, and wine. The only industry of any importance is the embroidery and lace-making of Teneriffe (‘calado’ embroidery after Mexican patterns, rosette-work introduced from Paraguay, the rich Vilaflor lace, and embroidery in relief from Venetian and Irish models). The cochineal insect (living on the prickly-pear plant) was introduced from Honduras in 1826, and for many years its culture yielded large profits to the islanders, but the discovery of aniline dyes has well-nigh ruined this industry. The best SEASON for a tour in the Canaries is from the beginning of March to the end of May. The best winter-quarters for invalids are to be found at Puerto Orotava or the more remote Güimar in Teneriffe, and at the Monte in the Grand Canary. Good quarters are obtainable also at Santa Cruz and Laguna in Teneriffe, and at Las Palmas in the Grand Canary, where most of the best hotels are in the English style, and English money circulates freely. The Spanish ‘fondas’, where the national currency is in vogue, fall short of modern requirements, while the country inns are mostly wretched taverns. The chief public conveyances in the islands are, in Teneriffe, the electric tramway from Santa Cruz to Tacoronte, and in the Grand Canary the harbour tramway at Las Palmas; the only others are the dirty and often crowded _coches públicos_, the very expensive four-seated vehicles, and the _tartanas_ or gigs. For mountain excursions horses or mules are used, the _arriero_ or attendant serving as a guide. Among numerous BOOKS on the Canary Islands are _Samler Brown’s_ guide (see p. 20); _Whitford’s_ The Canary Islands as a Winter Resort (London, 1890; 7_s._ 6_d._); _Ward’s_ Vale of Orotava (London, 1903); _C. Piazzi Smyth’s_ Teneriffe, an Astronomer’s Experiment (London, 1858); and _Olivia Stone’s_ Tenerife and its Six Satellites (London, 1889). * * * * * =Teneriffe=, Span. _Tenerife_, the largest and most populous of the islands, 51½ M. long, 31 M. in breadth, and 781 sq. M. in area, contains about 140,000 inhab., mostly living on the N. coast. The island is composed of three mountain-ranges, chiefly of eruptive rock of a basaltic character, which have been welded together, probably since the miocene period, by great phonolithic and trachytic eruptions. These are the _Anaga Mts._ on the N.E., the _Teno Mts._ on the N.W., and the _Adeje Mts._ in the Bandas del Sur. Beyond the lofty plain of Laguna the Anaga range is prolonged to the Llano de la Maja by the massive _Cumbre_. In the centre of the island, from the enormous crater-ring of Las Cañadas, and high above the trade-wind clouds, towers the mighty _Peak of Teneriffe_, or _Pico de Teide_ (12,175 ft.), visible for 100 M. around. Approaching the island from the N., we first sight the sombre and wildly fissured _Anaga Mts._ (3406 ft.). We steer past the lighthouse (Faro; 811 ft.) a little to the N.W. of the _Punta del Drago_, whose light is visible for 40 M., then skirt the rocky E. coast, with the _Punta de Anaga_ and _Punta Antequera_, and at length cast anchor in the open roads of the bay of _Santa Cruz_. [Illustration: Santa Cruz de Tenerife] =Santa Cruz de Tenerife.=—ARRIVAL. Passengers are conveyed in steam-launches (_falúas_) or in rowing-boats to the pier (Muelle; Pl. C, 2; landing or embarkation 1 peseta, each trunk 75 c.). The hotels, which send their porters on board, charge 3–5 shillings for the landing and conveyance to the hotel of each passenger and his luggage. =Hotels= (often crowded in Feb., March, and April; mostly closed in summer). *GRAND-HÔT. QUISISANA (Pl. a; A, 1), on the hill-side (about 330 ft.) to the N.W. of the town, 1 M. from the pier, with fine views, R. from 3_s._, B. 2, déj. 3, D. 5, pens. 12½–15_s._ (but more in Feb. and March); *PINO DE ORO (Pl. b; B, 1), to the N. of the town, ¾ M. from the pier, also finely situated, with a beautiful old park, pens. 8–12_s._; HOT. BATTENBERG (Pl. c; A, 2), in the Paseo de Ronda, below Quisisana. pens. from 9_s._—CAMACHO’S ENGLISH HOTEL (Pl. d; B, 2), Calle San Francisco 11, pens. 9–12_s._; HOT. OROTAYA (dépendance of the ‘Humboldt Kurhaus’ at Puerto Orotava, p. 39), Plaza de la Constitución, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4½, pens. 8–12½_s._; ALEXANDRA (Pl. e, B2; Olsen’s), Calle de Alfonso Treceno, pens. from 7½_s._, commended; VICTORIA (Pl. f, B 2; Holmström’s), Plaza de la Constitución, pens. 6–8_s._; the last four rather plain; wine is always an extra. Table-water, _Agua Firgas_. =Cafés.= _Cuatro Naciones_, _Europa_, and _Belge_, all in the Plaza de la Constitución. =Theatre.= _Teatro Isabel Segunda_ (Pl. B, 3), adjoining the market.—BULL RING (Plaza de Toros; Pl. A, 2), in the Paseo de Ronda; ‘corridas’. mostly in May.—MUSIC in the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. B, C, 3) and the Plaza del Príncipe Alfonso (Pl. B, 2) alternately, thrice weekly, 8.30 to 10.30 p.m. =Shops.= TENERIFFE HANDIWORK (p. 32): _Bazar Nivaria_, Calle San Francisco 11; _Bazar Taoro_, corner of Calle San Francisco and Calle San José. Indian dealers offer defective goods (bargaining necessary).—BOOKSELLER: _Benítez_, Calle San Francisco 6.—TINNED FOODS: _Quintero & Co._, Calle San Francisco 2.—PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIALS: _Lohr_, Calle San Francisco 34; _Espinosa_, Plaza de la Constitución. =Bankers.= _Hamilton & Co._, Calle de la Marina 15; _Miller, Wolfson, & Co._, same street, No. 1; _Ahlers_, same street, No. 31; _Dehesa_, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 64. =Steamboat Agents.= _Hamilton & Co._ (see above), for the Peninsular & Oriental Co., Union Castle, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Aberdeen (Thompson’s), Shaw, Savill, & Albion, New Zealand, Hamburg-American, White Star, and other lines; _Teneriffe Coaling Co._, for the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.; _Ahlers_ (see above), for the Hamburg & South American, German East African, and Woermann lines; _Elder, Dempster, & Co._, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 84, for the Belge Maritime du Congo, the Italian ‘La Veloce’, the Société de Transports Maritimes, and the Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios; _Viuda é Hijos de Juan de la Roche_, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 35, for the Compañía Trasatlántica; _Miller, Wolfson, & Co._ (see above), for the Servicio de Pailebotes. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Correos y Telégrafos; Pl. 3, C, 2), Marina. =Physicians.= _Dr. Otto_, Santa Rita, and others.—CHEMIST. _Serra_, Calle de Alfonso Treceno 7.—BATHS (baños), Plaza de la Constitución.—SEA BATHS (poor) at the pier; better at the Club Tinerfeño. =Cabs= (‘coches de punta’; stands in the Plaza de la Constitución and the Plaza San Francisco): drive in the town, each pers. 50 c. (at night one-half more); per hour 1–2 pers. 2 pesetas, each addit. pers. 50 c.; to San Andrés 10 p., to Tegueste or Tacoronte 20, to Güimar 30, to Puerto Orotava 35, to Icod de los Vinos 60 p. (but bargain advisable). =Electric Tramway= from the Alameda de la Marina (Pl. C, 2) through the Calle de Alfonso Treceno, viâ Cuesta and Laguna (1 hr.; fare 1 p. 30 c.; change carriages), to Tacoronte (1¾ hr.; fare 2 p. 60 c.). Cars for Laguna hourly from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; to Tacoronte every two hours till 5 p.m. The cars starting at 7 and 3, in connection with the diligence mentioned at p. 37, are usually crowded; motor-omnibus from Tacoronte to Puerto Orotava, see p. 37. CONSULS. British, _J. E. Crocker_; vice-consul, _R. C. Griffiths_.—United States, S. BERLINER. ENGLISH CHURCH in the upper part of the town; service in winter. ENGLISH CLUB (also for temporary members), adjoining the Governor’s Palace (p. 35). _Santa Cruz de Tenerife_, a fortified seaport with 30,300 inhab., and the capital of the island since 1821 when it superseded Laguna, lies picturesquely in 28° 28′ N. lat. and 16° 15′ W. long., on a bay 3 M. broad between the _Valle del Bufadero_ (p. 36) and the _Barranco de Santos_, below the spurs of the Anaga Mts. and the plateau of Laguna. Its beautiful _patios_, or courtyards, recall those of Seville and the flat roofs with their _miradores_, or belvederes, are reminiscent of Cadiz. The harbour is entered by 3500–4000 vessels per annum. At _Regla_, to the S. of the town, is a wireless telegraph station. The town was heroically defended in 1797 against the British fleet under Nelson, who lost his arm here and had to retire after heavy loss. Near the old _Citadel_ (now Cuartel Almeida; Pl. C, 1) stands the saluting battery. The old _Castillo de San Cristóbal_ (Pl. C, 2, 3) now contains public offices. From the Alameda de la Marina (Pl. C, 2), near the landing-place, we soon reach the PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN (Pl. B, C, 3) to the S.W., with the _Governor’s Palace_ (Gobierno Civil; Pl. 5, B 2; fine patio), the club-houses, and the cafés (p. 34). On the side next the sea rises the _Triunfo de la Candelaria_, a column in honour of the Virgin, the tutelary saint of the Canaries (p. 36), erected by the Spaniards as a memorial of their victories, with four Guanche kings as worshippers. From the S. side of the Plaza de la Constitución the Calle de la Cruz Verde leads to the IGLESIA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN (Pl. B, 3), the principal church in the town, consisting of a nave with double aisles, and situated close to the Barranco de Santos. It was founded early in the 16th cent., but was rebuilt after a fire in 1652. The tower, 181 ft. high, affords an extensive panorama. INTERIOR. The central chapel of the aisle on the left contains two flags captured from Nelson’s fleet (see above), of which the town is very proud. Here too, by the high-altar, is a stone cross originally erected outside by Al. Fernandez de Lugo (p. 37) in 1494 as a memorial of his victories. The pulpit, in Italian marble, is by _Matias Rodriguez_ (18th cent.). The burial chapel of the artist (entered to the right of the high-altar) contains several pretty, but unfinished carvings in juniper-wood. Near this is the _Mercado_ (Pl. B, 3), a covered market for fruit and other commodities (worth visiting in the early morning). From the N.W. angle of the Plaza de la Constitución the Calle San Francisco leads, a few yards farther on, to the church of _San Francisco_ (Pl. 6, B, 2), built in 1680. The tower, inlaid with _azulejos_, or ornamental tiles, dates from 1777. The old Franciscan monastery contains at present the _Museum_ with fine art and anthropological collections (new building being erected near the Ayuntamiento, Pl. 1, B 2). Beyond it lies the Plaza del Príncipe Alfonso (Pl. B, 2). The long CALLE DE ALFONSO TRECENO (Pl. B, A, 2), or Calle de Castillo, the main street, connects the Plaza de la Constitución with the pretty Plaza de Weyler (Pl. A, 2). The _Paseo de los Coches_ and the _Paseo de Ronda_ (Pl. A, B, 2, 1), a charming promenade bordered with pepper-trees, oleanders, and geraniums, lead thence to the N. through the villa quarter (Barrio de Ensanche). EXCURSIONS ON THE E. COAST (cabs, see p. 34). From the Paseo de Ronda we may go past the Pino de Oro Hotel (p. 33), or by the Hotel Quisisana, to the _Conduit_ (llevada), skirt this and the right bank of the _Barranco de Almeida_, and thus reach the (1 hr.) tunnels, or we may continue our walk to the (3 hrs.) _Aguere Springs_.—Starting from the harbour the fine coast-road leads to the N.E. to the mouth of the _Valle del Bufadero_, which lies at the foot of the Anaga Mts. and is defended by a fort; from here we may go on, crossing some barrancos and skirting the rocks, to the dirty fishing-village of (5 M.) _San Andrés_ (poor inn). Thence to the _Cruz de Taganana_, see p. 37.—Drive from _Cuesta_ (see below) by the Carretera del Sur, a road shaded by tamarisks, to the S.W., along the slope of the bare sunburnt _Cumbre_ (p. 33), up and down hill, through many barrancos, viâ (8 M.) _San Isidro_ to (10½ M.) the so-called _Halfway House_ (tavern; good wine); then through the deep _Barranco Hondo_, below the village of that name (1310 ft.), mostly through pine-woods (_pinal_). To our right, on the hill, lies the village of _Igueste_; to our left, on the _Ladera de Candelaria_, is the village of _Candelaria_, with the famous pilgrimage-church of the Virgen de la Candelaria. Lastly we cross a lava-stream from the _Garganta de Güimar_ (p. 40) to (20 M.) =Güimar= (975 ft.; Hot. El Buen Retiro, with a fine garden, pens. 8–10_s._, English, good; Pens. Sunnyside, pens. 7_s._), a village of 2000 inhab. in a sunny and sheltered site, in the _Valle de Güimar_. This fertile valley, 3¾ M. in breadth, bounded on the S. by the _Ladera de Güimar_, and on the W. by the ash-cone of the _Arafo_ and the _Monte de Izaña_ (7380 ft.), yields sugar-cane, oranges, and bananas. Luxuriant vegetation, including gigantic arbutus-trees, is seen also in the _Barranco del Rio_, to the W., above the village. From the S. end of the village we may reach (ca. 1½ hr.) two cave-dwellings of Guanches (p. 31), now empty, in the upland valley of the _Barranco de Badajoz_. Route over the _Pedro Gil Pass_ to _Orotava_, see p. 40; ascent of the _Peak of Teneriffe_, see p. 41. The EXCURSION TO THE OROTAVA VALLEY, the most charming spot in the island, takes 1-1½ days. We go by tramway (p. 34) to Tacoronte and drive thence to Puerto Orotava (see p. 37). The shadeless and generally very dusty Carretera del Norte, the continuation of the Calle de Alfonso Treceno (p. 35) and Rambla de Pulido, crosses the Barranco de Santos and ascends the N.W. slope of the _Plateau of Laguna_ in windings affording several fine views. The country is parched and scorched in spite of the numerous reservoirs (_estanques_), but corn-fields, tamarisks, fruit-trees, and relics of prickly-pear plantations are occasionally seen. 3 M. _Cuesta_ (962 ft.; inn). The road to Güimar (see above) diverges here. Farther on, as we approach the cooler and better watered tableland, the vegetation becomes richer. 6¼ M. =Laguna.=—HOTEL. _Hot. Aguere & Continental_, Carrera 57, pens. 10–12_s._, good. _Laguna_ or _La Laguna_ (1740 ft.), once the capital of the Canaries (see p. 34), now a quiet little country-town (pop. 4900), is a favourite summer residence of the wealthier families of Santa Cruz. The old-fashioned houses, as at Villa Orotava, often have pretty, carved balconies; their unglazed windows, closed with shutters only, generally have a _postígo_, or flap, from which the inmates can view the street. The _Cathedral_, founded in 1513 and since 1908 in course of reconstruction, contains the tomb of Alonso Fernandez de Lugo, the conqueror of Teneriffe (1493–6). From the Calle Juan de Vera, diverging to the N., we follow the first side-street, the Calle de San Agustín, to the left, to the old Augustinian monastery, once the university, and now the _Instituto de Canarias_, which contains the _Biblioteca Pública_ (26,000 vols.) and a small natural history collection. To the right, in the same street (No. 28), is the _Palacio Episcopal_, whose patio is richly adorned with flowers. From the E. end of the street a few paces bring us to the Plaza de Adelantado, No. 1 in which is the old Palace of the _Nava_ family. From the S. side of the Plaza the Calle de Santo Domingo leads to the _Priests’ Seminary_ (Seminario Conciliar), once a Dominican monastery. In the side-street opposite No. 30 the second door on the left leads into the garden of a _Farm Building_ (finca) which contains a venerable dragon-tree (p. 30; fee). The _Iglesia de la Concepción_, at the W. end of the town, contains a fine carved pulpit. EXCURSIONS. A fine drive (12–15 p.) may be taken viâ (4½ M.) _Tegueste_ and (5½ M.) _Tejina_, not far from the gloomy _Barranco de las Palmas_, to (10½ M.) the fishing-village of _Bajamar_, near the _Punta del Hidalgo_, a headland which affords a splendid survey of the precipitous N. coast of the island.—We may also hire a mule (6 p.) to take us to the laurel forests of _Las Mercedes_ or _La Mina_. From Las Mercedes we may ascend past the _Cruz el Carmen_ (about 2950 ft.) with its rich thicket of bushes (Erica scoparia), and past the _Cruz de Afur_ (3405 ft.) to the (3½ hrs.) *_Cruz de Taganana_ (3068 ft.), a splendid point for surveying the great Peak and the E. coast as far as Santa Cruz. We may then descend to the N., through a magnificent old *Forest of Canary laurel, viñatigo (p. 30), tree-heath (Erica arborea), and Pleiomeris, to the village of _Taganana_ (689 ft.), near which the tall pinnacles of the _Hombres de Taganana_ tower above the abrupt rocky coast. Or we may go on to the N.E. to the _Cruz del Draguillo_ (2205 ft.) and descend thence to _Igueste_ and _San Andrés_ (p. 36) on the E. coast.—Another excursion from Laguna is to the (2 hrs.) ancient _Forest of Agua García_ (p. 38) to the W. Beyond Laguna the HIGH ROAD, bordered at first with eucalypti, now crosses the plateau of the _Rodeos_ to the Laguna Saddle (2008 ft.; watershed), and descends thence, affording fine *Views of the _Cumbre_ (p. 33), the Peak itself, and its spurs, and passing the hills of _Guamaza_ famed for their view of Tacoronte, to the _Bandas del Norte_, the far cooler and greener N. coast of the island. 12 M. =Tacoronte= (1762 ft.; Camacho’s Tacoronte Hotel, on the road above the town, pens. from 9_s._, good; pop. 4200), beautifully situated, is well adapted for a longer stay. Near it is produced the best wine in the island, and its orange-groves are famous. From Tacoronte to _Puerto Orotava_ a motor-omnibus of the Grand Hotel (p. 39) plies daily at noon in connection with the tramway mentioned at p. 34 (½ hr.; fare 12 _s._); cab, ordered by telephone from Santa Cruz, in 2–2½ hrs., 20–25 p.; diligence (dirty) at 9 and 5, viâ Villa Orotava (3 hrs.; fare 3 p.), to Puerto Orotava (4 hrs.; 4 p.). EXCURSIONS. The road to the N.E. leads past the slopes of the _Montaña del Picón_, and through the _Valle de Guerra_, to (7 M.) _Tejina_ (p. 37).—To the N. we may descend (1½ hr.) the precipitous rocks on the _Coast_ (650–980 ft.), where the numerous caves are said to have once been inhabited by the Guanches (p. 31).—To the S.E. lies the (1½ hr.) primæval *_Forest of Agua García_ (2588 ft.), the finest in Teneriffe, with its huge erica trees overgrown with creepers, its venerable laurels, and superb tree-ferns. Specially charming is a sequestered nook at the _Madre d’Agua_, the source of the water-conduit. The Puerto Orotava road (conveyance, see p. 37), whence the route to _Sauzal_ diverges to the right a little farther on, passes through wheat-fields, vineyards, and orchards, and is bordered with tamarisks, Canary palms, oleanders, aloes, and hedges of geranium. The steep slopes of the Cumbre are carefully cultivated in terraces up to the evergreen zone of the cloud-region. Fine view of the rock-bound coast and the blue ocean to the right. 15 M. _Matanza_ (1585 ft.; ‘slaughter’), the scene of the last defeat of the Spanish invaders (1494), is now a village of 2000 inhabitants. Beyond (17 M.) the little town of _Victoria_ (1240 ft.), where the Guanches sustained a decisive defeat in 1494, the road forks. The new road, to the left, crosses the _Barranco Hondo_, a ravine about 330 ft. deep, by a viaduct (1909); the old road winds down into the Barranco Hondo. The two roads unite at the church of (20 M.) _Santa Ursula_, a palm-girt village (886 ft.; 2200 inhab.), on the crest of the _Ladera de Santa Ursula_, noted for its wine. About 1 hr. above it is the farm of La Florida (p. 40). Beyond the village we obtain a glimpse, and then, at the _Humboldt Corner_, a full and glorious view of the **=Orotava Valley=, the _Taoro Valley_ of the Guanches, famed at once for its harmonious outlines, for its superb colouring, and for its luxuriant vegetation. The valley, about 7 M. long by 6 M. wide, probably formed by subsidence, and descending rather rapidly to the sea in terraces, is sprinkled with smiling villages and countless white country-houses, embosomed among palms, pines, orange-trees, rosebushes, and climbing plants, which are abundantly watered by cuttings and conduits descending from the cloud-region. The tropical character of the landscape is enhanced by the extensive plantations of bananas. On the E. and W. the valley is flanked by the lava slopes, about 1000 ft. in height, of the Ladera de Santa Ursula and the _Ladera de Tigaiga_, and on the S. it is bounded by the Cumbre, with the ‘organ-pipes’ at the S.E. angle (p. 40). Far above its steep banks, but most often concealed by the trade-wind clouds, towers the majestic pyramid of the Peak. In the middle of the valley rise three eruptive cones of recent origin, the _Montaña de la Horca_ (833 ft.; p. 39), the _Montaña de Chaves_ (p. 42), and the _Montaña de las Gañanias_, which have sent forth lava-streams descending to the sea. Beyond the _Barranco del Pinito_ the direct road to (24½ M.) _Villa Orotava_ (p. 40) branches off to the left, and 1 M. farther on another road from that town joins ours. We are next carried through deep barrancos by means of cuttings, with their surprising variety of layers of slag and beds of lava, and at the Montaña de la Horca we come to a point where a new road diverges, to the left, for Realejo Bajo (p. 42) and Icod de los Vinos (p. 43). We descend to the right to Puerto Orotava, passing a private entrance to the Grand Hotel on our right. 27½ M. =Puerto Orotava.=—HOTELS (often crowded in March and April). *_Grand Hotel_ (or ‘Kurhaus Humboldt’; about 330 ft.), in a fine open situation on the N. slope of the Montaña de la Horca, with splendid views from the roof-terrace, beautiful grounds, and sea-baths on the Martianez beach (see below), R. from 4_s._, pens. 12_s._ 6_d._–20_s._; for guests ascending the Peak the hotel provides mule, guide, porter, accommodation in the Alta Vista hut, and food for two days for an inclusive sum of 30_s._ *_Hot. Martianez_, at the E. end of the town, not far from the sea, once a nobleman’s château, with a charming garden, pens. 12–15_s._; _Hot. Monopol_, Plaza de la Iglesia, R. 2_s._ 6_d._–3_s._, pens. 8–10_s._, good (all three under German management); _Hot. Marquesa_, Plaza de la Iglesia, pens. 5–6_s._, Spanish, well spoken of. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Calle de Quintana, near the Plaza de la Iglesia. BANKER. _T. M. Reid_, Calle San Juan.—PHOTOGRAPHER. _Baeza_, Calle de la Hoya.—TENERIFFE WORK. _Franken_, Calle de Santo Domingo 10. PHYSICIANS. _Dr. Lishman_, Casa Montaña; _Dr. Perez_.—CHEMIST. _R. Gomez_, Calle de Santo Domingo. MUSIC in the Plaza de la Constitución.—SORTIJA RIDING (tilting at the ring) in the grounds of the Grand Hotel. CARRIAGES. To Villa Orotava or Realejo 10 p.; to Tacoronte 20–25 p.; to Icod de los Vinos 25 p.—OMNIBUS to Villa Orotava twice daily, 1 p.—MULE (mulo) to Agua Mansa 10 p., to Güimar 12½, to the Peak 20 p.—DONKEY (burro), 5 p. per day (according to bargain).—GUIDE to the Peak 20 p. ENGLISH CHURCH (resident chaplain) in the grounds above the Grand Hotel.—ENGLISH CEMETERY and others to the W. of the town. _Puerto Orotava_, officially called _Puerto de la Cruz_, the most popular invalid resort in the Canaries, a poor little seaport with 3100 inhab., lies on a delta formed by lava-streams. The Calle San Juan, the main street, in continuation of the highroad, descends, passing near the Plaza de la Constitución, with its garden-grounds, to the _Pier_ (Muelle), whence the produce of the Orotava Valley is conveyed by small boats to the vessels in the roads. In the Plaza de la Iglesia, to the E. of the Plaza de la Constitución, are the _Iglesia de la Peña de Santa Francisca_, with its new tower, and the _Casas Consistoriales_ or town-hall, with its old-fashioned wooden balcony.—Mr. R. Gomez, the chemist (see above), possesses a small _Guanche Museum_ (adm. 1 p.). To the E. of the town a palm-avenue leads along the _Barranco de Martianez_ to the bathing beach (Playa de Martianez). Beyond the ravine, about halfway up the abrupt coast-hill, is the spring called _Fuente de Martianez_.—A zigzag path ascends to the _Sitio de la Paz_ (492 ft.), once occupied by Alex. von Humboldt (1814), and now containing several memorials of that savant. A cypress-avenue is the sole relic of the old garden (fee).—A beautiful walk may be taken to the _Barranco de las Arenas_, 1½ hr. to the E. To the S. the Camino del Puerto (see below) leads past the _Observatorio_ (belonging to the nautical observatory of Hamburg) to the *_Botanic Garden_ (Jardín Botánico or de Aclimatación), laid out in 1788, which, though sadly neglected, contains exquisite flowers, superb magnolias, and fine specimens of royal, Canary, and exotic palms, dragon-trees (p. 30), and fig-trees (Ficus imperialis and Ficus nitida; p. 233). A dusty road (donkey 3 p.) leads from the cemetery at the W. end of the town to the _Finca los Frailes_ of Dr. Perez, with its splendid avenue of palms. The road ends at the _Risco do Burgado_, with its fissured lava cliffs, washed by huge breakers. Pleasant ride (4–5 hrs.; donkey 4, horse 8 p.) by Los Frailes to _Realejo Bajo_ and _Realejo Alto_ (p. 42), returning, above the three eruptive cones (p. 38), viâ _Cruz Santa_ (p. 41), _Perdoma_, and _Villa Orotava_. From Puerto Orotava the dusty roads mentioned on p. 39, besides the Camino del Puerto, the old bridle-path, lead through a garden-like region in 1¼–1½ hr. to =Villa Orotava= (1080–1480 ft.; Hot. Suizo, pens. 6–8 p., good; Hot. Victoria, same charges; 3600 inhab.) the _Arautápala_ of the Guanches, now the capital of the Orotava Valley. The antiquated little town, which has fallen into great poverty since the decline of the cochineal culture (p. 32), occupies almost the loveliest site in the whole island. At the E. entrance is the Plaza de San Agustín, with the old _Iglesia de San Agustín_ and a band-stand, whence we have a fine view of Puerto Orotava and the sea. Near it is the _Villa of Marquesa Quinta_, now owned by Dr. Perez (p. 39), with its beautiful park; on the highest terrace is a marble mausoleum (adm. to both 1 p.). In the quarter above the _Iglesia de la Concepción_ are several châteaux of the noblesse. On the S.W. side of the town, near the monastery of _San Francisco_ (now a hospital), are two old mansions with very handsome carved balconies (comp. p. 36). An excursion, attractive in clear weather only, may be made to the farm of =Aqua Mansa= (3491 ft.), in the S.E. angle of the Orotava Valley, within the cloud-region, 1½ hr. to the S.E. of Villa Orotava. Steep bridle-path; mule, see p. 39. The chestnut and erica woods are succeeded in the _Barranco de la Arena_ by primæval *Pine Forest, near which is an abrupt slope with huge columns of basalt, known as the _Organos_ (organ-pipes). From Agua Mansa we may either ride back by the W. margin of the _Ladera de Santa Ursula_ (p. 38) and the farm of _La Florida_, or we may cross the _Pedro Gil Pass_ (6522 ft.; the top of the Cumbre, to the S.W., commands a striking view of the E. coast and the Grand Canary) to the grand basin of the *_Garganta de Güimar_, and along the lava-stream of 1705, past _Arafo_, to (6–7 hrs.) _Güimar_ (p. 36). The ASCENT OF THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE, which is fatiguing but without danger, takes two days and should be made in the warmer season (hotel arrangement for the ascent, see p. 39; tariffs for mule and guide, also see p. 39). The excursion affords an admirable insight into the geological structure of the island, while the view in clear weather is of unparallelled grandeur. The equipment most needed consists of riding leggings, an Alpenstock (_lanza_), stout boots, a lantern, rugs, drinking-water, abundant provisions, grey spectacles or goggles, and lanoline for the face. In the Cañadas (see below) the guides and mule-drivers often refuse their services when snow is falling. The shortest way to the peak is by the bridle-path from Puerto Orotava, viâ Cruz Santa, to the Portillo. In about 10 hrs. we reach the refuge-hut of Alta Vista, the keys of which are brought by the guide. We may afterwards descend to Icod Alto and Realejo Alto (p. 42; about 8 hrs.), where a vehicle may be ordered to meet us; or we may descend viâ the Llano de la Maja to Güimar (p. 36; 10 hrs.). Our route ascends through every climatic zone in the world. From the tropical region of Puerto Orotava we pass, beyond _Cruz Santa_ (1500 ft.), through the _Taoro Basin_ into the temperate zone, the region of maize and cereals, where numerous cottages are shaded by chestnut-trees. Leaving behind the thickets of _Monte Verde_ and following the _Camino del Brezal_ with its view of the sombre _Ladera de Tigaiga_ (p. 38), we mount, beyond the cloud-region, a wilderness of lava. A most striking change of scenery is observed at the _Portillo_ (6611 ft.), lying a little to the E. of the Fortaleza (p. 42), and forming the entrance to the *_Montañas de las Cañadas_, the lowest and oldest crater. This enormous basin, 6–12½ M. in diameter, girdles the base of the Peak with its ring-shaped wall of lava rocks (650–1650 ft. high), the continuity of which has, however, been broken by later eruptions. The summit of the Peak is rarely free from snow except in August and September. We now ride across the _Cañadas Plateau_ (midday-rest; view of the Peak), a desolate expanse of pumice-stone, overgrown with scanty Retama (p. 31), and in summer enlivened by a few goats. Here and there it is intersected by huge lava-streams and covered with isolated eruptive cones. The sky is generally cloudless, the sun intensely hot, and the air marvellously clear. At the foot of the lower portion of the Peak, not far from the spur of _Los Rastrojos_ (7562 ft.), begins the toilsome ascent over the grey-white pumice-stone of the _Montaña Blanca_ (8691 ft.) to the saddle adjoining the pyramid-like peak. The zigzag path now mounts the slopes of slag, inhabited by rabbits, mostly between streams of black obsidian, to the _Lomo Tiezo_. In the midst of the expanse of slag shady resting-places are formed here and there by great blocks of lava, such as the _Estancia de los Ingleses_ (9711 ft.) and the _Estancia de los Alemanes_ (10,018 ft.). Below the spot where the lava-streams unite to form the sickle-shaped _Piedras Negras_ stands the refuge-hut of _Alta Vista_ (10,728 ft.; accommodation for 15 pers. at the utmost, at 5 p. each). From this point we already enjoy, in clear weather, an imposing view of the E. half of the island, of the Grand Canary (p. 43), and even of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote (p. 28), a glorious spectacle more particularly at sunset, when the Peak gradually casts its shadow over the sea as far as the Grand Canary. Next morning we start early. The winding path ascends a field of lava to (1 hr.) the _Rambleta_ (11,713 ft.), the central crater-basin, out of which towers the trachytic cone, covered with pumice-stone, of the _Pitón_ or _Pan de Azúcar_ (‘sugar-loaf’), the summit of the **=Peak of Teneriffe=, or _Pico de Teide_ (12,175 ft.; ‘peak of hell’). In ½¾ hr. we climb its slopes to the _Corona_, the very narrow margin of the _Caldera_, the insignificant highest crater (77 by 110 yds.; 130 ft. in depth), which was still active in the middle ages, but now emits a few jets of steam only from its fumaroles (comp. p. 29). When the horizon is perfectly clear, the eye ranges over an area of some 2200 sq. M.; floating, as it were, in the midst of the boundless expanse of the ocean, the blue of which seems to blend on the horizon with the blue of the sky, we can sometimes see the whole of the Canaries, from Palma, Hierro, and Gomera on the W. to the far-distant E. group. To the W. we look down upon the grand crater of the Pico Viejo (see below), the Chahorra, and the Talus de Bilma, studded with countless coloured cinder-cones. We survey, from the Fortaleza on the N.E. to the Morro del Cedro on the S.W., the ring-shaped wall of the Cañadas, with the pumice-stone wilderness of the Cañadas Plateau and the coloured lava-masses of the Azulejos (see below). The older serrated mountains in the island (pp. 32, 33) and the green basins of Orotava and Icod are generally shrouded by a sea of clouds of dazzling whiteness. On the DESCENT, which experts may shorten at first by glissading down the cinder-slopes, we may visit the _Cueva del Hielo_ (11,044 ft.), a fine lava cavern a little below the Rambleta, always filled with ice and water. From the Montaña Blanca (p. 41) we then turn to the N. to the _Fortaleza_ (8300 ft.), the only considerable height on the N. margin of the Cañadas wall. The bridle-path, very steep and rough, next descends to the _Corona de Icod_ (about 2900 ft.), the highest point of the _Ladera de Tigaiga_ (p. 38), falling away to the E. in a huge rocky slope, and again offering a glorious view of the Vale of Orotava. From _Icod Alto_ (1716 ft.) we may descend rapidly to the N.E. to _Realejo Alto_ (see below), or we may wend our way due W. to _Icod de los Vinos_ (p. 43). ROUND THE CAÑADAS is an interesting but toilsome excursion. From the Portillo (p. 41) we strike to the S. across the Cañadas Plateau to the rocks of the _Risco Verde_ (7130 ft.), on the E. margin of the encircling wall, where a lava cavern serves for night-quarters. The path then leads to the S.W., skirting the basaltic rock of _Las Pilas_ (7228 ft.), passing below the _Espigón Hill_, and along the wildly fissured and variegated _Roques de la Grieta_ (7211 ft.), where a new _Observatorio_ has been built near a spring (1909). This brings us to the _Guajara Hill_ (8908 ft.), near the _Guajara Pass_ (see below). Our route, now running to the W., crosses the so-called _Azulejos_ (9400 ft.), a lava wall consisting partly of blue-green rock, and at the _Boca de Tauze_ (7021 ft.) surmounts the huge lava-streams (of 1798 and 1909, comp. p. 29) of the _Chahorra_ (7743 ft.) and the _Pico Viejo_ (10,289 ft.). To the left rises the _Morro del Cedro_ (8000 ft.), the highest hill on the W. side of the crater-wall. From the N.W. side of the Cañadas, whose girdle-wall was here almost entirely destroyed by the numerous cones thrown up in 1705 and 1706, we next reach the *_Pinal de la Guancha_, the finest pine-forest in the island. Thence we traverse the huge lava slopes of the _Lomo de Vega_ (5168 ft.) to the basin of _Icod de los Vinos_ (p. 43). A somewhat shorter path from the Portillo, crossing the saddle between the Rastrojos and the Montaña Blanca (p. 41), leads to the S.W., in 3½ hrs., direct to the _Guajara Pass_ (7992 ft.), which gives access to the village of _Vilaflor_ (4842 ft.; inn), finely situated on the S. slope of the girdle-wall of the Cañadas amid pine-woods and luxuriant orchards, and noted for the ‘Vilaflor embroidery’ (p. 32). From the brow of the _Llano de los Quemados_ we overlook the late-volcanic terraces of the _Bandas del Sur_, which are bare and thinly peopled. A fine excursion from Vilaflor is made viâ _Escalona_ (3750 ft.) and _Arona_ (2198 ft.), with views, towards the W., of the islands of Gomera and Hierro, to the little town of _Adeje_ (935 ft.), situated behind the _Adeje Mts._ (p. 32; _Roque del Carasco_, etc.), the ancient Guanche capital of the island. Near it is the *_Barranco del Infierno_, the upper half of which is the grandest ravine in Teneriffe. The *HIGH ROAD, which at the foot of the _Montaña de Chaves_ (p. 38) sends off a by-road to the village of _Realejo Alto_ (1158 ft.), nears the sea at the rocky headland of _Rambla de Castro_. At (27½ M. from Santa Cruz) _Realejo Bajo_ (883 ft.) the _Ladera de Tigaiga_ (p. 38) comes close down to the coast. The next stretch of road, as far as (32½ M.) _San Juan de la Rambla_ (2000 inhab.), situated on a recent lava-stream, is particularly fine. It leads past abrupt rocks and through sombre gorges (_Barranco de la Torre_, _Barranco Ruiz_), and often through banana plantations and vineyards extending to the cliffs of the coast. 37½ =M. Icod de los Vinos= (755 ft.; Hot. Inglés, poor), a small town with 2000 inhab., is the chief place in the *_Vale of Icod_, which is bounded by the Ladera de Tigaiga, the Lomo de Vega, and the Pinal de la Guancha (p. 42), rivalling the Vale of Orotava in fertility and beauty. We enjoy here a magnificent *View of the _Peak_, towering almost immediately above the coast, between the Fortaleza and the Pico Viejo (p. 42). A garden near the _Iglesia Parroquial_ contains an old dragon-tree. The _Guanches’ Cave_ below the village is not worth visiting (fee 2 p.). A pleasant way back to the Vale of Orotava is the bridle-path viâ _Guancha_, _Icod Alto_ (p. 42), and _Realejo Alto_ (p. 42). * * * * * The =Gran Canaria= or ‘_Grand Canary_‘, the second-largest island in the archipelago, nearly circular in form, with 127,000 inhab. in an area of 626 sq. M., lies about 66 M. to the S.E. of Teneriffe. The best-watered and most fertile parts are the environs of _Las Palmas_, the capital, and the N. coast. The barren brown mountains in the interior, with their sharp outlines, culminate in the _Pico de las Nieves_ (6400 ft.). On every side deep barrancos or ravines descend to the coast, conspicuous among which, as we near the island from Teneriffe, is the _Barranco de Tejeda_. The _Isleta_ (748 ft.), the N.E. promontory of Gran Canaria, once a separate island, has gradually been united to the greater island by deposits of sea-sand which form the _Istmo de Guanarteme_. The _Lighthouse_ (Faro) on the _Punta Morro de la Vieja_, on the N. side of the Isleta, is the chief landmark for steamers coming from Teneriffe or the N. Beyond the Isleta, in the _Confital Bay_ opening to the W., lies =Puerto de la Luz= (Hot. Rayo, with café, pens. 6 p., a very fair Spanish inn; comp. Plan, p. 46), a rapidly rising place, the chief port of Gran Canaria, and the best harbour in the islands. The entrance to it is protected by a breakwater (rompeolas), about 1100 yds. long, and by the Muelle (mole) de Santa Catalina (landing or embarking in steam-launches or small boats, 1 p., trunk 50 c.). The hotel-agents from Las Palmas come on board. A dusty ROAD leads from Puerto de la Luz, passing many new buildings, the mineral baths of _Fuente de Santa Catalina_ (near which is the _English Church_, p. 45), and the large hotels named at p. 44, to (4½ M.) _Las Palmas_. (Tramway in about 40 min.; fares 20–40 c.; tartana, a kind of dog-cart, 2, with luggage 3–4 p.) =Las Palmas.=—HOTELS. _Santa Catalina_, pens. 10–16_s._, and _Métropole_, pens. 10–12_s._, both on the road to the harbour (comp. Plan, p. 46), ca. ¾ M. to the N. of the town, with beautiful gardens towards the sea, tennis-courts, etc.; both closed in summer.—In the town: _Hôt. Continental_ (Pl. c; B, 2), with American bar and pretty garden, pens, from 8_s._ 6_d._, and _Quiney’s English Hotel_ (Pl. d; B, 2), R. 4–6, B. 1, D. 5, pens. 10–15_s._, both in the Plaza de San Bernardo (p. 45), in a quiet and pleasant situation.—_Catalan Hotel_ (Pl. e; B, 3), Calle de los Remedios 8, pens. 6 p., and _Cuatro Naciones_ (Pl. f; B, 4), Alameda de Colón, with café, pens. 6 p., both quite Spanish.—The best table-water is _Agua Firgas_. [Illustration: LAS PALMAS] POST OFFICE (Correos; Pl. 1, B 4), Plaza de Santa Ana (best hours 12–4). TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Telégrafo; Pl. 5, A, 2), Calle de Domingo J. Navarro 36. THEATRE (Pl. C, 3), at the month of the Barranco Guiniguada.—MUSIC in the Alameda de Colón. BANKERS. _Miller & Co._, Muelle de Santa Catalina, in Puerto de la Luz; _Blandy Bros. & Co._, Calle Mayor de Triana 68, and others. STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Miller & Co._ (see above), for the Union Castle, the Austro-Americana, Aberdeen (Rennie’s), Bucknall, and other lines; _Grand Canary Coaling Co._, for the Peninsular & Oriental Co. and the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co.; _Behrens_, at Puerto de la Luz, to the N. of the Muelle de Santa Catalina, for the German East African, Woermann, and Hamburg-American Lines; _Elder, Dempster, & Co._, Calle Mayor de Triana 93, for the Vapores Correos Interinsulares Canarios; _M. Curbelo & Co._, Calle de Muro, for the Compañía Trasatlántica. CARRIAGES (stands in the Plaza de Cairasco, in the Plaza de San Bernardo, and near the theatre). Drive in the town for 1–3 pers. 1½p., for 4 pers. 2 p.; per hour 2½ (or for a tartana or dog-cart 2) p.; to Puerto de la Luz 5 (tartana 2) p.; to the Monte, Telde, or Arucas 15 (tartana 12½) p.; to Atalaya, San Mateo, or Teror 20 (tartana 15) p. ENGLISH CHURCH, near the Hôt. Métropole, on the road to Puerto de la Luz (comp. Plan, p. 46).—ENGLISH CLUB at Puerto de la Luz. _Las Palmas_, a town of 28,600 inhab., of a S. Spanish type like Santa Cruz (comp. p. 35), the seat of the bishop of Gran Canaria, situated in 28° 6′ N. lat. and 15° 12′ W. long., is the busiest and wealthiest town in the whole archipelago. The houses of the well-to-do townspeople, built of pale-grey tufa or blue lava-basalt, often enclose beautiful patios filled with plants, which are watered by means of pipes conducted from the roofs. On the hills at the back of the town, which have been fortified since the Spanish and American war, are sprinkled many gaily painted country-houses. Las Palmas is divided into two parts (_barrios_) by the _Barranco de Guiniguada_: on the _N. Triana_, and on the _S. Vegueta_. The main street of TRIANA, with its numerous shops, in line with the road from Puerto de la Luz, is called Calle Mayor de Triana (Pl. B, C, 1–3). Beyond the _Baranquillo de Mata_ it intersects the Plaza San Telmo (Pl. B, 1), in which rises the _Gobierno Militar_ (Pl. 2; B, 1). The Paseo de Bravo Murillo (Pl. B, A, 1) ascends the gorge to the right to the Carretera del Norte (p. 47). On the left is the _Harbour_ (Pl. B, C, 1), with the pier (Muelle), where the sea-breezes may be enjoyed in hot weather. From the Calle Mayor de Triana, farther on, the Calle Constantino diverges to the right to the Plaza de San Bernardo (Pl. A, B, 2), a square planted with Indian laurels. Near the S. end of the street the Calle del General Bravo leads to the Alameda de Colón (Pl. B, 3), which is embellished with a bust of Columbus and fine royal and date palms (p. 30). In this square rise the _Iglesia de San Francisco_ (1689) and the _Casino_. The central point of VEGUETA is the Plaza de Santa Ana (Pl. B, 4), where the guides lie in wait for strangers. The bronze dogs at the lower end of the plaza, as well as those in the arms of the town, recall the tradition that Juba II. (p. 31) carried away some dogs (_canes_) from the island, and that their name is derived thence. The CATHEDRAL (Pl. B, C, 4; _San Christóbal_), founded in 1497 and restored in 1781, with its heavy façade flanked with towers 184 ft. high, contains, in the first chapel of the left aisle, the tombstone of the native poet Bart. Cairasco de Figueroa (1540–1610), and in the crypt the tomb of Viera y Clavijo (1731–1802), the historian of the Canaries. The TOWN HALL (Palacio Municipal; Pl. B, 4), built in 1842, contains, on the third floor, the _Museo Canario_, consisting of natural history collections and of curiosities from the Guanche caverns of the Isleta (p. 43) and other places (implements, weapons, and tools in basalt, obsidian, horn, wood, and clay, leather-work, and mummies). Adm. free, daily 11–3. For a prolonged stay the _Monte_ is preferable to Las Palmas. It is reached by the Carretera del Centro (comp. Pl. A, 5), the best road in the island. Ascending from the suburb of San Roque, and soon affording splendid views, the road at first follows the Barranco de Guiniguada (p. 45), and then winds up the slopes of the _Pico del Viento_ (820 ft.). 3¾ M. _Tafira_ (1230 ft.; Hotel Victoria; James’s Boarding House), the first village on the *=Monte=, a colony of villas and a favourite winter resort of the English. 8 M. _Santa Brígida_ (1572 ft.; Hot. Santa Brígida, in a fine open situation with a beautiful park, pens. from 10_s._ 6_d._; Quiney’s Bella Vista, ½ M. below the other, pens. 8–10_s._), a finely situated village with 500 inhabitants. The road, still unfinished, goes on to Telde (p. 47), passing the curious cave-village of _Atalaya_ (1720 ft.), which rises in terraces on the hill-side. The tufa walls of the cave-dwellings are hung with mats. The industry of the place is the manufacture of pottery, notably the porous water-jars so common in N. Africa. The ascent of the *_Pico de Vandama_ (1838 ft.) may be made from Atalaya or direct from Santa Brígida (there and back 2 hrs.; mule 3 p.). This hill, overgrown with pines and tree-like broom, overlooks the grand mountain landscape of the E. coast. Very striking is the view of the *_Caldera de Vandama_, a huge crater-basin of about 550 yds. in diameter and 683 ft. in depth. Its floor is planted with vines and cereals, and it is worth while to ride down into it. The Carretera del Centro leads, beyond the bifurcation for Atalaya, to (13 M.) the little town of =San Mateo= (2575 ft.; fair inn), superbly situated among the mountains. Rough mule-tracks lead thence to the _Pico de las Nieves_ (6400 ft.), to the village of _Tejeda_ (3160 ft.) in the *_Barranco de Tejeda_ (p. 43), and to the cave-village of _Artenara_. Scarcely less attractive than the Monte road is the *Carretera del Sur, which leads from Las Palmas, at first passing the cemeteries, then skirting the rocks of the E. coast, and at length turning inland, piercing the lava-rock by a tunnel, to Ginámar and (8 M.) =Telde= (394 ft.; inn; pop. 4000), a picturesque little town amidst beautiful orange-groves. [Illustration: Monte] The Carretera del Norte, crossing the _Barranco de San Lorenzo_ and the road from Puerto de la Luz (p. 43) at _Tamaraceite_, and farther on, beyond a long tunnel, the _Barranco de Tenoya_ above the village of that name, leads to (10 M.) _Arucas_ (1017 ft.; two inns), an industrial little town of 2900 inhab., at the foot of the _Montaña de Arucas_, a hill affording fine views. The sugar-cane is cultivated in the vicinity. A by-road diverges from this carretera, beyond the Barranco de San Lorenzo, to (12½ M.) _Teror_ (1936 ft.; dirty inn), a little town with the famous pilgrimage-church of the Virgen del Pino (16th cent.). * * * * * The island of =Palma=, or _La Palma_, in the extreme N.W. of the archipelago, 28½ M. long and 17 M. broad, lying about 16½ M. to the W. of Teneriffe, is remarkable for its fine scenery and superb forests, but is as yet rarely visited by tourists. The famous _Caldera_, the largest and deepest of all the crater-basins in the islands, opens towards the W. in the huge _Barranco de las Angustias_, while many smaller gorges render the N. coast in particular very difficult of access. The whole of the S. part of the island is of recent volcanic origin and therefore poorly watered. The population (42,000, in an area of 280 sq. M.) is confined to the S.E. margin of the island and the middle of the W. slopes Many of the natives emigrate, especially to Cuba. Starting from Santa Cruz de Tenerife (p. 33) the steamer rounds the _Anaga Mts._, with the lighthouse already named (p. 33), and steers to the W. from the _Punta del Hidalgo_ (p. 37) to Palma. The lighthouse on the _Punta de Teno_ (23 ft.), the N.W. point of Teneriffe, remains visible for some time. The bold coast of Palma presents a grand appearance as we approach. =Santa Cruz de la Palma.=—HOTELS. _Hot. Miramar_; _Hot. Español_; _Hot. Internacional_; _Fonda Verbena_, pens. 4–5 p.—CARRIAGE to Los Llanos 45 p. (also motor-omnibus).—MULE per day 5–6, to Los Llanos 7½ p. _Santa Cruz de la Palma_, the only considerable port (5700 inhab.) in the island, lies on the E. coast, on an open bay which is much exposed to sand-drifts. The houses rise in terraces on the steep hill-side, overtopped by tall Canary palms. The chief export is tobacco, which is little inferior to that of Havana. Cigar-factory of J. Cabrera Martín. The main street, in which rises the _Town Hall_ (Ayuntamiento) of 1563, leads to a picturesque triangular plaza with the church of _San Salvador_ and several handsome houses. Close by is the small _Museum_ (Museo de Historia Natural y Etnográfico). A beautiful palm-avenue leads through the upper part of the town. EXCURSIONS. To the N.W. we may ascend through the _Barranco de la Madera_, with its cave-dwellings (Cuevas de los Guanches) to the loftily situated pilgrimage-church of the _Virgen de las Nieves_ (16th cent.); thence either to the _Montaña de Tagoje_ (about 3300 ft.; with grand view of the E. coast, of Gomera and Teneriffe), or to the _Pico del Cedro_ (7471 ft.) on the E. margin of the _Caldera_ (see below), round which we may ride to the _Roque de los Muchachos_ (7693 ft.) on the N. side.—To the S.W., following the old bridle-path which cuts off the windings of the road, we may walk or ride to (1 hr.) _Buena Vista_ (about 660 ft.), whence a rough mule-track ascends to the (2 hrs.) _Cumbre Nueva_ (4593 ft.), the chief mountain-pass in the island, where we have a grand *View of the abrupt rocks and the pine-woods of the central chain, of the fertile plains to the W., and of the distant Peak of Teneriffe. Then we proceed through pine-forest, past the venerable ‘Pino de la Virgen’, to _El Paso_ (2060 ft.; inn), whence we may ascend the _Cumbrecita_ (4445 ft.) and the _Idafe_, the sacred mount of the Guanches, on the S. margin of the Caldera. Finally we descend to the (3 hrs.) little town of _Los Llanos_ (1000 ft.; poor inn, bargaining advisable). From Los Llanos it takes a day (7–8 hrs., there and back) to visit the *=Caldera=, a vast basin, nearly 5900 ft. deep and 3–4½ M. in diameter, situated in the heart of the island and rarely quite cloudless. A tedious ride up the _Barranco de las Angustias_ brings us to the farm-building of _Tenera_ (3642 ft.), whence we look down on the floor of the Caldera, which is partly clothed with pines. The best way to return from Los Llanos to Santa Cruz is to drive (34½ M.) by the road passing _Las Manchas_, _Fuencaliente_ (2297 ft.), _Mazo_ (1312 ft.), and _Breña Baja_; or we may ride across the _Cumbre Vieja_ (6660 ft.), the pass between Las Manchas and the _Barranco Aduares_. [Illustration: MEDITERRANEAN SEA] III. ANDALUSIA.[5] Route Page Geographical and Historical Sketch. Preliminary Notes 49 5. Gibraltar 52 6. From Gibraltar to Seville 56 a. Viâ Bobadilla and Utrera 56 b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz 57 7. Seville 59 a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcázar and the Cathedral, 61.—b. The Central and Eastern Quarters (Casa del Ayuntamiento, Casa de Pilatos, University), 65.—c. The Western and South-Western Quarters (Museo Provincial, Hospital de la Caridad, Public Gardens), 66. 8. From Seville to Cordova 68 9. From Cordova viâ Bobadilla to Granada 72 10. Granada 73 a. The Lower Town, 75.—b. Darro Valley and Albaicín, 78.—c. The Alhambra, 79.—d. The Generalife, 87. 11. From Granada viâ Bobadilla to Málaga 88 _Andalusia_, the southmost region of Spain, is geologically of somewhat recent origin. In the tertiary period the sea still washed the southern shores of the Iberian tableland, until a pressure acting in a direction from S. to N. gradually lifted up a new coast in long parallel folds, while the Mediterranean forced a new passage to the ocean through the Straits of Gibraltar (comp. p. xxix). Latest of all appeared the Guadalquivir Bay, the highest point of whose coast scarcely rises 490 ft. above the sea. The coast-hills, which have their counterpart in the Rîf Mts. on the African side (p. 93), stretch in the main from E. to W., descending abruptly to the sea. Transverse fissures, in which volcanic activity is still indicated by frequent earthquakes, divide the coast into several different chains, which culminate in the _Sierra Nevada_ (11,421 ft.; ‘snow-mountain’), the highest peak in Spain. The W. chain (_Serranía de Ronda_) trends round to the N. In contrast to the _Andalucía Alta_, the folded region facing the Mediterranean, the _Andalucía Baja_, the basin of the Guadalquivir, opens towards the Atlantic. The _Guadalquivir_ (Arabic _Wâd al-Kebîr_, ‘the great river’), the _Bætis_ of antiquity, rises indeed in the Sierra de Cazorla, apart from the coast-mountains, but receives its more copious affluents, particularly the _Guadiana Menor_, from the Sierra Nevada. After a wild career it enters the plain beyond Montoro, becomes navigable at Cordova, and even carries sea-going vessels at Seville. Footnote 5: Fuller details in _Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal_. The HISTORY of the country dates from hoar antiquity. It was the _Tarshish_ of the Bible, being already named in the generations of Noah (Gen. x. 4), and was called by the Greeks _Tartessós_, the home of precious metals, especially of silver, the source of the wealth of Tyre. Here, too, are the rich copper mines of _Rio Tinto_ and _Tharsis_, which were already worked in the ancient Iberian age. The Mediterranean peoples contented themselves with visiting the harbours established in the bays of the coast, leaving it to the natives to bring the produce of the interior down to them across the mountains or by the river Bætis. Thus arose, probably even before the foundation of Cadiz, the Phœnician towns of _Málaca_ (Málaga) and _Kalpe_ (Gibraltar), besides other small settlements. About 1100 B.C. _Gadîr_ or _Gades_, the westmost of these, appears in history, and afterwards became dependent on Carthage. The art of writing, the first and most potent aid to commerce, was propagated from Gades, which thereby laid the foundation of the higher civilization of the peninsula. Summoned to their aid by the Gaditanians, the Carthaginians, who had already gained possession of the Balearic Islands, invaded Iberia. After the Punic Wars (p. 345) came the domination of the Romans, who in 27 A.D. gave the whole of S. Spain the name of _Provincia Baetica_. On the break-up of the Roman Empire Andalusia was overrun by the Vandals (p. 322), the Suevi, and the Visigoths. At length the Arabs and the Berbers of Morocco obtained a footing here, after they had crossed the Straits of Gibraltar under Târik (p. 54). By them this region, and afterwards the whole peninsula which they conquered, were named _El-Andalûs_ (‘land of the West’). Down to the 13th cent. the Moors occupied Andalusia, and it was not till 1492 that Granada was captured by Ferdinand V., the Catholic. These vicissitudes in the country’s history are still reflected in its present INHABITANTS. Half African, half European, like the Maltese, the Sicilians, and the Sardinians, the Andalusians have inherited something of the character, the customs, and the language of all the nations that once held sway in this region. To this day the Andalusian dialect swarms with Arabic words; almost all the terms used in agriculture and irrigation are Arabic. The popular dances and music are of Oriental origin. To their Oriental ancestry the Andalusian (_Andaluz_, _Andaluza_) also owes his exuberant imagination. There can be no greater contrast than that which the calm and proud Old-Castilian presents to the volatile and excitable Andalusian, who is apt to substitute fancy for fact, who sees everything as through a magnifying glass, and who is therefore much given to exaggeration (_fanfarronadas_). On the other hand nothing can be more charming than the bearing of an Andalusian ‘maja’, who is admired rather for her wit, her grace, and her power of repartee than for her beauty. The _Sal Andaluza_ is as proverbial as the Attic ‘salt’ of the ancients. Andalusia can boast of possessing, not only some of the finest and most interesting Moorish BUILDINGS in Spain, such as the mosque at Cordova, the Giralda and Alhambra at Granada, but also several of the grandest monuments of the ‘reconquista’ period. Among these are the Alcázar of Seville, one of the most brilliant creations of the so-called Mudejar, or Moorish-Christian style, and the grand cathedrals of Seville and Granada in the Gothic and ‘plateresque’, or Spanish early-Renaissance, styles.—Nor is the SCENERY of this region less attractive. Andalusia may be said to stand in the same relation to Spain as Sicily to Italy, or as Provence to the rest of France. It combines all that the rest of the peninsula possesses locally or partially. To the E. are vast plateaux and steppes, frozen in winter and parched in summer; to the S. rise snow-clad mountains; on the S.W. are the sand-dunes of the Atlantic coast; olive-groves thrive on the Guadalquivir; and on the shores of the Mediterranean are well-watered vegas where the cotton-plant, the banana, and the sugar-cane flourish. MEDITERRANEAN TRAVELLERS will hardly have time for more than a circular tour from Gibraltar to Tangier, Cadiz, Seville, Cordova, Granada, and back to Gibraltar, or, in unfavourable weather, to Algeciras, Bobadilla, and Seville only. The Spanish railways (see the _Guía general de Ferrocarriles_; 1 p., smaller edition 75 c.) are far inferior to the British or to the French, and their speed is very low. The natives travel mostly in the second or third class, but the carriages cannot be recommended. The first class often has a _berlina_, or coupé-carriage with four seats, which affords an unimpeded view (higher fare). In the larger towns one may book luggage (_facturar el equipaje_) 1–2 hrs. before the departure of the train, at the _despacho central_, or town-office. Booking it at the station itself is a very slow process. As in France luggage up to 30 kilos (66 lbs.) is free. The ticket for it is called a _talón_ or _boletín de equipaje_. The porter (_mozo_), often most importunate, receives 30–50 c. or more. Andalusia possesses few first-class hotels. The better second-class inns are similar to the French and Italian. Even for a stay of a single day it is usual to pay an inclusive charge for bed and board (_pupilaje_, from 6 to 20 p.). Déjeuner or lunch (11–1 o’clock) is called _almuerzo_; dinner, _comida_ (at or after 7); table-wine, _vino común_ or _de mesa_. No allowance is made for meals omitted. An extra charge is often made for breakfast (coffee, etc.), which Spanish travellers usually take in their own rooms. Notice of departure should be given as early as possible, lest a whole additional day be charged for. The usual fee to the servants (_camarero_, waiter; _muchacha_, chamber-maid; _mozo_, boots), who are apt to be lazy and inattentive, is 1 p. per day, divided among them, or more in proportion for families. The beer-houses are called _cervecerías_. The cafés are usually open in the afternoon and evening only. _Café con leche_ is coffee with milk; _café solo_ is without milk. Newspapers (_periódicos_) are not provided by the cafés. Tobacco and cigars are a government monopoly; the shop is called _estanco_; there are also special shops for the better Havana cigars. The post-offices (_correo_), even in the larger towns, are often open for a few hours only. The hours for obtaining poste-restante (_cartas en lista_) or registered letters (_cartas certificadas_) are often changed; the addressee must show his visiting-card (_tarjeta_) at the office. Stamps (_sellos de correo_; for the town 10, country 15, abroad 25 c.) and post-cards (_tarjetas postales_, 10 c.) are obtainable at the tobacco-shops only. Telegrams (_telegramas_) must be prepaid with special stamps (_sellos de telégrafos_), for the sale of which there are separate offices. The Spanish _peseta_ (p.), divided into 100 _centimos_ (c.), is scarcely equal to the franc in value. The only valid banknotes are those of the Madrid _Banco de España_. The 5 p. piece is popularly called a _duro_; the 10 c. and 5 c. copper coins are often termed _perro grande_ and _perro chico_ (‘big and little dog’) in jocular allusion to the lions in the coat-of-arms. Change should be examined carefully, as base coin is common.—At Gibraltar the currency is English, but Spanish money is received, except at the post and telegraph office. 5. Gibraltar. =Arrival.= The ocean-going steamers land and embark their passengers in their own steam-tenders at any time before sunset at the Commercial Pier (fare for each pers. 1_s._ either way). The tariff for small boats is 1_s._ 6_d._ for a row in the harbour, or to or from the steamboats, for 1–2 pers., and 1_s._ for each addit. person; luggage up to 56 lbs. free; excess, 6_d._ per 56 lbs.; or a bargain may be made (l–2_s._ for passenger, incl. luggage). In bad weather the tariff is raised, in accordance with the signals (red, blue, bluish-white), to one-third more, or double, or triple fare. The porters are notorious for their extortionate demands. The charge for conveying luggage to the hotel should be fixed beforehand.—The _Custom House Examination_ at the harbour-gate is confined to tobacco, spirits, and weapons. Foreigners require a permit from the _Police Office_ (Pl. 2) to spend the day on shore, and if they intend to spend the night the permit must be renewed by their landlord. Between 5.30 and 8.15, according to the season, a cannon-shot (gun-fire) announces the closing of the Land Port (p. 55). The other gates remain open till 11. =Hotels= (the inclusive charge for the day should be ascertained). HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. a), Cathedral Square, quiet and pleasant; GRAND HOTEL (Pl. b) and HÔT. CECIL (Pl. c), both in Waterport St.; these three have high charges, from 10–12_s._ a day and upwards; HÔT. PARIS (Pl. f), opposite the post-office, new, pens. 8–15 fr.—Plainer: HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. d), Turnbull’s Lane; HÔT. VICTORIA, Church St., café-restaur.; NUEVO HOT. ESPAÑOL (Pl. e), Irish Town, pens. 8_s._, tolerable.—The drinking-water (rain-water from cisterns) is not good.—CAFÉS. _Universal_, Church St.; also at the _Assembly Rooms_ (p. 53). =Cabs= (stands at Waterport Gate, Commercial Sq., and Cathedral Sq.). _Drive_ for 1–2 pers. in the lower town, between Waterport Gate and Alameda, 6_d._; in the upper quarters (Governor’s St.) 9_d._; to Catalan Bay 1_s._ 3_d._; to the lighthouse 1_s._ 4_d._; to Governor’s Cottage 1_s._ 9_d._—_Per hour_, for 1–2 pers., 1_s._ 6_d._; for each addit. ½ hr. 6_d._; 3_d._ extra for each addit. pers., or 5_d._ extra for the longer drives (lighthouse, Governor’s Cottage, etc.).—Each trunk 2_d._—The tariff is in force only from daybreak till midnight. A bargain should be made beforehand. =Post Office= (Pl. 1), Waterport St.; week-days 7 a.m.–8 p.m. (on Sun. 8–10 a.m.). The overland English mail closes at 6.45 a.m.—=Telegraph Office=, same place; 6 a.m. till midnight. Tariff to England 3_d._ or (viâ Malta) 6_d._ per word; to the United States 1_s._ 4_d._–1_s._ 11_d._ per word. [Illustration: GIBRALTAR] =Banks.= _Anglo-Egyptian_, Market St., opposite Police Station; _Larios Hermanos_, Irish Town; _Thos. Cook & Son_ (tourist-agents), Waterport St.—Numerous money-changers. =United States Consul=, _R. L. Sprague_; vice-consul, _A. D. Hayden_.—=Lloyd’s Agents=, _Smith, Imossi, & Co._, Irish Town. =Theatre.= _Assembly Rooms_ (Pl. 8), in the Alameda, with open-air café. =Steamboat Lines= (comp. ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’). _Peninsular & Oriental_ (Smith, Imossi, & Co., Irish Town), weekly between London, Marseilles, and Port Said (for Australia and China; comp. RR. 17, 67); _Orient Royal_ (Smith, Imossi, & Co.), fortnightly between London, Marseilles, and Port Said (for Australia; comp. RR. 17, 67); _Cunard_ (M. H. Bland & Co., Cloister Bdg.), between New York and Trieste (RR. 15a, 16); _White Star_ (Th. Morsley & Co., Irish Town 11), 2 or 3 times monthly to Naples (and Genoa; RR. 16, 15a), or viâ Algiers to Genoa; _North German Lloyd_ (J. Onetti & Sons, Engineer Lane), fortnightly to Algiers, Genoa, Naples, and Port Said (comp. RR. 1, 15b, 24, 67), also fortnightly between New York, Algiers, Naples, and Genoa (comp. RR. 16, 24); the _Hamburg-American_ (J. Carrara & Sons, Waterport St.) has excursion-steamers only; _German Levant_ (J. Rugeroni & Son, Commercial Sq.), occasionally to Algiers; _Hall Line_ (W. J. S. Smith, Bomb House Lane), weekly between London, Lisbon, Cadiz, and Málaga (comp. RR. 1, 6b); _Royal Mail Steam Packet_ (Bland & Co., see above), every other Wed. for Tangier, Mogador, Teneriffe, etc. (RR. 14, 3, 4); _Transports Maritimes_ (Imossi & Son), 21st of each month for Madeira and S. America; _Oldenburg-Portuguese_ (A. Mateos & Sons, Pitman’s Alley) twice monthly to Tangier and Mogador (R. 14); _Navigation Mixte_ (A. Mateos & Sons), every other Wed. night to Tangier, Oran, and Marseilles (RR. 18, 19); _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (J. Onetti & Sons; at Algeciras, A. Gil Pineda), from Algeciras to Tangier and Cadiz (see R. 6b).—Local steamers to Algeciras and Tangier, comp. R. 6. ONE DAY (or even less when time presses). Walk through the town to the _Alameda_ (p. 55); visit to _Europa Point_ (p. 55) and perhaps _Catalan Bay_ also (p. 56).—Foreigners are not admitted to the fortifications, photographing or sketching which is prohibited. _Gibraltar_, a town of 23,450 inhab. (incl. the garrison of 5100 men), the key of the Mediterranean, and one of the most important coast-fortresses in the world, in British possession since 1704, and headquarters of the Atlantic Fleet, lies on the W. slope of a huge rock, which is connected with the Spanish mainland by a sandy isthmus only. The famous rock bounds the Bay of Algeciras or Gibraltar on the E. ‘It is the very image of an enormous lion, crouched between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, and set there to guard the passage for its British mistress’ (Thackeray). The rock is composed of Jurassic limestone, overlying Silurian slate, and extending from N. to S.; it is 3 M. long and ¾ M. in breadth, with a saddle separating _Mt. Rockgun_ (1356 ft.), the lower hill on the N., from the _Signal Station_, the _Highest Point_ (1396 ft.), and the _Sugar Loaf Hill_ (_O’ Hara’s Tower_, 1361 ft.) on the S. Its grey masses ascend gradually in terraces on the W. and S. sides, and rise almost perpendicularly on the E. and N. sides. The TOWN OF GIBRALTAR (‘North Town’) covers a third of the W. slope to the N., while the remaining two-thirds are occupied by the Alameda, numerous pretty villas, the barracks of the _South Town_, and the _Lighthouse_ on Europa Point. The houses rise in terraces to a height of 260 ft.; the streets are narrow and dark, and are relieved by few squares. The natives are chiefly Spaniards and descendants of many different Mediterranean races. The numerous Moroccans, mostly dealers from Tangier, indicate the proximity of the African coast. The cleanness of the town and the absence of beggars produce a pleasant impression. The Coal Stores on the South Mole (along with those of Algiers and Malta) supply the vessels bound for the Suez Canal (about 1200 annually). There is little other trade except the import of cattle and provisions from Galicia and Morocco. The ancient name of the rock was _Kalpe_, while the hills on the African side were called _Abyla_ (now Sierra Bullones; p. 103). Together they were known as the ‘Pillars of Hercules’, the entrance to the ocean. Under the protection of the divine Hercules-Melkarth, the Phœnicians ventured through the straits, even as far as Britain, whence they brought the earliest tidings from the North and also cargoes of tin, which they mixed with copper to produce bronze. _Kalpe_ was also the name of the first Phœnician settlement on the bay of Gibraltar, while _Carteia_, on the inner part of the bay, was probably of ancient Iberian origin. Carteia was still an important harbour under the Carthaginians, and in 171 B. C. it became the first Roman colony in the whole peninsula. Nothing is recorded of the period which succeeded the invasion of the Vandals (p. 322). At length in 711 the bay re-appears in history, when _Mûsa_, the governor appointed by the Caliph of Damascus, sent the Berber _Târik ibn Ziyâd_ across from Ceuta to the bay of Algeciras on an expedition against Spain, in which he defeated the Visigoths at Veger de la Frontera, near Cape Trafalgar (p. 58). Impressed by the commanding position of the rock of Gibraltar, Târik afterwards erected a fort upon it, which formed the nucleus of the Moorish castle (p. 55). From him is derived the name of _Jebel Târik_, ‘mountain of Târik’, corrupted into Gibraltar. In 1309 Gibraltar was captured by _Al. Pérez de Guzmán_ (_el Bueno_) for Ferdinand IV. of Castile; the Moors recaptured it in 1333, but in 1462 lost it again to the Spaniards. In consequence of the plundering of Gibraltar by Algerian pirates under _Kheireddin_ (p. 221), Charles V. ordered the fortifications to be reconstructed and new ramparts to be built from the S. side of the town to the crest of the hill. In 1610 the Spanish Admiral _Mendoza_ caused the last Moriscoes of Andalusia to be sent back to Morocco from this very port, where their ancestors had so long held sway, and whence they had gone forth to conquer the whole peninsula. After having undergone ten sieges at various periods, the fortress was surprised and captured by the British fleet under _Adm. George Rooke_ and _Prince George of Hesse-Darmstadt_ in 1704, during the Spanish War of Succession, and was stoutly and successfully defended by them during a six months’ bombardment by the Spaniards and the French (1704–5). The thirteenth siege (1727) and the ‘great siege’ by the French and the Spaniards (1779–83) were also unsuccessful, the British commander then being _Gen. Eliott_, afterwards Lord Heathfield. By the Peace of Versailles, in 1783, Great Britain was confirmed in her possession of the historic rock. The older FORTIFICATIONS on the coast, from Land Port on the N. to Europa Point on the S., those on the S. slope of the rock above Europa Point, and those on the N. side (the famous underground galleries, p. 55) have in late years been strengthened by the construction of a fort on the summit of the hill, armed with guns of the largest calibre. From the _Old Mole_, dating from 1309, and lately prolonged by the _North Mole_, we pass through the _Old Mole Gate_ (the outer gate of the harbour), and then, beyond the _Market_, through the inner _Waterport Gate_, which stands on the site of the old Moorish wharf. This brings us to the S. E. to CASEMATES SQUARE. Adjacent, on the S., is WATERPORT STREET, with the chief buildings, forming, together with the parallel street to the W. called _Irish Town_, the chief business quarter. Waterport Street is prolonged to the S. by CHURCH STREET. Beyond Commercial Square and the _Exchange_ (Pl. 3) we come to the Catholic _Cathedral_ (Pl. 4), on the left, originally a mosque, but restored by the ‘Catholic kings’ (p. 75) after 1502; there now remains little worth seeing except the Moorish orange-court.—A little farther on, on the same side is the _Supreme Court_ (Pl. 7), with its pretty garden. To the right, in Cathedral Square, stands the _Anglican Cathedral_ (Pl. 6), built in the Moorish style. The southmost part of this line of streets is SOUTHPORT STREET, where, on the right, rises the _Convent_, once a Franciscan establishment, now the _Government House_ (governor, Sir Arch. Hunter), the garden of which contains a venerable dragon-tree (p. 30). At the S. end of this street is _Southport Gate_, which is always open, dating from the time of Charles V., but restored in 1883. Outside the gate, on the left, is the small _Trafalgar Cemetery_, where the British who fell at the battle of Trafalgar (p. 58) are buried. The =Alameda=, beyond the gate, a fine promenade with rich subtropical vegetation, was laid out by Governor George Don in 1814. A military band plays near the Assembly Rooms (p. 53) on Sun. and Wed. from 3–5, or in summer in the evening. To the W. we overlook the _Naval Harbour_, with its dockyard, quays, and long _South Mole_. A little to the E. of the Southport Gate is _Prince Edward’s Gate_, a second exit to the S. from the town, whence the *=Europa Main Road= ascends gently along the W. slope of the rock, above the Alameda Gardens, between gardens and villas. Below it, on the right, farther on, are the _Naval Hospital_ and the _Buena Vista Barracks_. Lastly, a little way short of a signal-station, we descend between the fissured rocks of the _Europa Pass_ to (1½ M.) _Europa Point_, with its great _Lighthouse_, the much-eroded S. extremity of the peninsula. The road then turns to the N., soon affording a view of the Spanish Mediterranean coast, to the _Governor’s Cottage_ and the _Monkeys’ Cave_ hidden among the rocks. The _Moorish Castle_, above the artillery barracks, begun by Târik in 713 and completed in 742, is entered through the Civil Prison (verbal permission required by foreigners). Access to the _Subterranean Galleries_ of the fortress, lying below the castle and dating from 1782 (comp. p. 54), is now limited to British subjects. From the Market (p. 54) we may walk to the N. E. to the _Land Port_ (notice as to closing should be observed; comp. p. 52), and past the _Inundation_, a space which may be flooded for defensive purposes (made in 1705), to the =North Front=, which forms part of the low neck of land below the N. slopes of the rock. From this point the Devil’s Tower Road leads to the S.E., past the _Cemeteries_, to the _Devil’s Tower_ (10 min. from the Land Fort), probably an old Genoese watch-tower. The road then turns to the S. to _Catalan Bay_, below the E. flank of the rock, just allowing room for the little fishing-village of _Caleta_. The rocks contain several caves. Beyond the _Neutral Ground_, 550 yds. in breadth, we come to the Spanish town of _Linea de la Concepción_ (29,600 inhab.), 1¼ M. to the N. of Gibraltar, which owes its origin to the old Spanish lines of defence, long since demolished. The place is uninteresting. 6. From Gibraltar to Seville. a. Viâ Bobadilla and Utrera. STEAMBOAT from Gibraltar (Commercial Pier) to _Algeciras Puerto_ in ½ hr. (fare 1½ or 1 p.; passengers with through-tickets have their luggage conveyed gratis).—RAILWAY from Algeciras Puerto to _Seville_, 214 M., in 10½ hrs. (54 p. 20, 40 p. 20, 24 p. 85 c.); carriages are changed at Bobadilla, La Roda, and Utrera. Rail. Restaurants at Ronda, Bobadilla, and Utrera. There are through-expresses from Granada to Seville (thrice weekly, in 7¾ hrs.), but they do not correspond with the Algeciras trains. _Algeciras_ (Hot. Reina Cristina, first-class; Hot. Anglo-Hispano; Hot. Marina; Brit, vice-cons., W. J. Smith; pop. 13,300), a small town on the W. margin of the bay of that name, is a winter resort of English and American visitors. The famous Morocco Conference (comp. p. 96) of 1906 was held in the Casa Consistorial or town-hall.—Local steamer to Ceuta, see p. 102. The train for Bobadilla, soon after starting, crosses the rivers _Palmones_ and _Guadarranque_. To the right we have a final view of the Bay of Algeciras and the African coast. Beyond (8¾ M.) _San Roque_ we traverse extensive plantations of cork-trees (p. 171). 26 M. _Jimena_; 36 M. _Gaucin_, in the _Guadiaro Valley_, the station for the little town high up on the hills, 5½ M. to the E.—We next pass through the romantic _Guadiaro Ravine_, and through many tunnels under the slopes of the _Sierra de Ronda_, and skirt the foot of the barren limestone slopes of the _Sierra de Libar_. 65½ M. =Ronda= (2460 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hot. Reina Victoria, first-class, pens. from 17½ or 20 p.; Hot. Royal, in the new town, English, pens. from 12½ p., good; pop. 19,000), one of the most interesting towns in Spain, occupying a plateau girdled by grand mountains. From the station we follow the Carrera de Espinel to the W. to the Calle de Castelar, the main street of the new town, and the _Plaza de Toros_ (bull-ring). From the railed-in platforms of the _Paseo de la Merced_, a park a little to the N.W. of the plaza, we enjoy a fine view, with the foaming _Guadalevin_, or Guadiaro, some 660 ft, below us. The _Puente Nuevo_, crossing at the S. end of the main street (p. 56) from the new town to the old town, affords a splendid view of the *_Ravine_ of the Guadalevin (_El Tajo_, ‘the cutting’), about 330 ft. deep and filled with the spray of the river. The bed of the latter is strewn with rocks and the abrupt sides of the gorge are thickly overgrown with cactus. The train descends between olives and cork-trees into the valley of the _Guadalete_ (p. 59), and then cuts through the last N. spurs of the S. Andalusian Mts. 110 M. =Bobadilla= (1240 ft.; Rail. Restaur.) is the junction for Cordova (see R. 9), Granada (see R. 9), and Málaga (R. 11). We follow the Cordova line as far as (124½ M.) _La Roda_ (comp. p. 72; change carr.), and then turn to the W. to (147 M.) _Osuna_ and (166½ M.) _Marchena_, junction of the Utrera and Cordova line (p. 59). We next cross the _Guadaira_ (p. 59) and pass (184 M.) _Empalme de Morón_. At (194 M.) =Utrera= (Rail. Restaur.; change carr.) we join the Cadiz and Seville line (R. 6 b). The train now runs to the N.W., mostly through fertile land (oranges, pomegranates, olives), and crosses the Guadaira. 214 M. _Seville_ (Estación San Bernardo or de Cádiz), see p. 59. b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz. FROM (GIBRALTAR) ALGECIRAS TO CADIZ. Steamers of the _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (agents at Gibraltar and Algeciras, see p. 53; at Tangier, p. 98; at Cadiz, p. 58) from Algeciras (steamboats from Gibraltar, see p. 56) every morning except on Mon. & Frid. (from Cadiz daily except on Sun. & Thurs.) to (3 hrs.) Tangier and (9 hrs.) Cadiz (fares 1st cl. 30 p., 2nd cl. 23 p.; to Tangier only 15 or 12 p.). From Gibraltar to Tangier there ply on Tues., Thurs., and Wed. the small cargo-steamers of the _Bland Line_ (about 2¼ hrs.; 10 or 5 p.). Steamers of the _Hall Line_ ply weekly and those of the Royal Mail Steam Packet and the Oldenburg-Portuguese lines mentioned at p. 104, as well as of the Navigation Mixte, ply occasionally to Cadiz. The voyage to Cadiz viâ Tangier is picturesque in itself, and it affords also a most interesting glimpse of Moorish-Mohammedan life at Tangier. On the other hand the steamboat communication is uncertain in stormy weather, and to many travellers the voyage, especially in the smaller vessels, is very trying. FROM CADIZ TO SEVILLE, 95 M., railway in 3¼–5¼ hrs. (fares 19 p. 80, 14 p. 50, 8 p. 70 c.). Railway Restaurant at Utrera only. For _Algeciras_ and the voyage through the _Straits_, see pp. 56, 5. As far as Tarifa the steamers usually skirt the Andalusian coast, and then strike across the straits to the semicircular _Bay of Tangier_, which is bounded on the E. by _Cape Malabata_. =Tangier=, see p. 98. After leaving the Bay of Tangier we sight _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) on the coast of Morocco. In clear weather we command a beautiful retrospect of the mountainous coast, as far as the Sierra Bullones (p. 103). Opposite, on the Spanish coast, where the hills gradually recede, at the N.W. end of the shallow _Bay of Barbate_, rises _Cape Trafalgar_, the _Promontorium Junonis_ of the Romans and _Taraf al-Ghâr_ (‘cape of caverns’) of the Moors. The tall lighthouse on the cape is visible at night from a distance of 22 M. It was here, on 21st Oct. 1805, that _Nelson_ won the brilliant victory over the combined French and Spanish fleets under _Villeneuve_ and _Gravina_ that cost him his life and made Britain mistress of the seas. Farther along the sandy coast, are the little town of _Conil_ and the insignificant _Cape Roche_, beyond which we sight _San Fernando_ (p. 59). At length, rising out of the blue sea, appear the lofty quays and the white houses of _Cadiz_, overtopped by the cathedral, a beautiful sight in sunny weather. We steer round _Fort San Sebastián_, skirt the cliffs of _Los Cochinos_ and _Las Puercas_, and enter the broad _Bay of Cadiz_. =Cadiz.=—ARRIVAL. Passengers of the Vapores Correos de Africa steamers are landed in tenders gratis, but heavy luggage is taken ashore by special boats according to tariff. The _mandadero_, or porter, usually gets ½–1 p. for taking luggage to the _Aduana_ (custom-house) or to the hotel.—The RAILWAY STATION (_Estación_) lies at the harbour. HOTELS (comp. p. 51). _Hôt. de France_, Plaza de Loreto, pens. from 12½ p.; _Hôt. Continental_, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 23; _Hôt. de Cadiz_, Plaza de la Constitución, pens. from 10 p. CAFÉS. _Cervecería Inglesa_, Plaza de la Constitución, corner of Calle del Duque de Tetuán; _Café Imperial_, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 6; _Cervecería Alemana_, Calle Zorrilla 2. POST OFFICE (_Correo_), Calle del Sacramento 1.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Alameda de Apodaca 20. BANKERS. _Ant. Sicre & Co._ (Agents of Crédit Lyonnais), Calle Diego de Cádiz 5; _Amaro Duarte & Co._, Plaza de Mina 18.—MONEY CHANGERS. _Casa de Cambio_, Calle de San Francisco 8 and 16. CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _R. A. Calvert_, Alameda 20.—U. S. Consular Agent, _J. Sanderson_, Alameda 12.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _H. MacPherson_, San Ginés 6. STEAMBOAT LINES. _Hall Line_, weekly from London to Lisbon, Cadiz, Gibraltar, and Málaga (comp. pp. 1, 89); the _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (office in the Calle Isabel la Católica) has a Philippine Line (monthly from Liverpool to Lisbon, etc.; comp. p. 1), a Canary Line, and several others; _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (agent, Antonio Millán), comp. p. 57; steamers of the _Austro-American Line_ (office, Viuda de R. Alcon) ply between Trieste, Almería, Las Palmas, and Buenos Ayres; _Navegación é Industria_ (Viuda de R. Alcon), for the Canaries. _Cadiz_, Span. _Cádiz_, the _Gadîr_ of the Phœnicians and _Gades_ of the Romans, now a provincial capital of 64,100 inhab., and a fortress, is most picturesquely situated on a low limestone rock, which was once an island, on the W. side of the Bay of Cadiz. From the harbour or from the railway-station we cross the Plaza Isabel Segunda either to the Calle Alonso el Sábio and the _Cathedral_ (Catedral Nueva), or to the Calle del Sacramento, leading to the _Torre del Vigía_ or _de Tavira_, 102 ft. high, which is accessible only by special permission of the Capitania del Puerto (Calle de Aduana). The top (151 steps; fee 30–50 c.) commands an excellent survey of the town, surrounded almost entirely by the sea, with its flat-roofed houses and their _miradores_ or belvederes. [Illustration: SEVILLA] The Calle Sagasta, the second side-street off the Calle del Sacramento, leads to the right into the Calle del Duque de Tetuán, the chief artery of traffic, which ends in the busy Plaza de la Constitución to the N.W. A little to the N.E., in the pretty Plaza de Mina, is the _Academia de Bellas Artes_, the picture-gallery of which contains several admirable works by Murillo, Zurbarán, and other masters. (Adm. 9–3, in summer 7–4; Sun. and holidays 10–3.) On the N. outskirts of the town are the beautiful *Gardens of the _Alameda de Apodaca_ and the _Parque Genovés_, with their fine palms. On the S. side of the town, not far from the W. end of the shadeless Paseo del Sur, rises the former Capuchin convent-church of _Santa Catalina_ (ring on the left in the adjacent court; adm. 20 c.), containing Murillo’s last work, the *Betrothal of St. Catharine. The RAILWAY TO SEVILLE runs along the narrow neck of land which connects Cadiz with the mainland, rounds the Bay of Cadiz, passing between salt-marshes, where salt is obtained by evaporation, and then strikes across the delta of the _Guadalete_. The chief stations are the naval harbour of _San Fernando_, the sea-baths of _Puerto Real_, and the _Puerto de Santa María_ (‘El Puerto’). Turning to the N.E., the train now runs through a hilly country to (30½ M.) _Jerez_ (or _Xeres_) _de la Frontera_, the third-richest town in Spain, with 52,500 inhab., far-famed for its ‘sherry’. Our next run is through moor, alternating with fertile tracts, to (75 M.) =Utrera= (p. 57), junction for La Roda (and Bobadilla, R. 6 a), and also for the direct line to Cordova. Lastly, we cross the _Guadaira_ to (95 M.) _Seville_ (Estación de Cádiz, see below). 7. Seville. =Railway Stations.= 1. _Estación San Bernardo or de Cádiz_ (Pl. F, G, 1; Rail. Restaur.), for the line to Utrera (Cadiz, Granada, Málaga).—2. _Estación de Córdoba_ or _de Madrid_ (Pl. D, 5, 6; Restaur.), near the Guadalquivir. Hotel carriages and cabs at both. Tariff, see p. 60. =Hotels= (comp. p. 51). *HOT. DE MADRID (Pl. a; D, E, 4), Calle de Méndez Núñes 2, with dépendance (Pl. b; D, 4), in the Plaza del Pacífico, pens. from 12½ (in spring 15) p.; *HOT. DE INGLATERRA (Pl. f; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 13, newly fitted up, pens. from 12½ p.; HÔT. DE PARIS (Pl. c; D, 4), Plaza del Pacífico, with two dépendances (Pl. d), similar charges; these three claim to be first-class.—HOT. DE ROMA (Pl. e; D, 4), Plaza del Duque de la Victoria 6, pens. from 9 p.; HOT. DE ORIENTE (Pl. i; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 8, pens. 7–10 p.; PENSIÓN LA PENINSULAR (Pl. g; E, 4), Plaza Nueva 20; CECIL HOTEL (Pl. h; E, 4), Calle de Méndez Núñez 18 & 23; HÔT. DE LA PAIX (Pl. k; E, 4), same street, No. 11; HOT. SIMÓN (Pl. n; D, 4), Calle O’Donnell 25, pens. 7 p.; HÔT. RESTAUR. ALHAMBRA, Calle Santa María de Gracia (Pl. D, 4).—During Holy Week (semana santa) and the Feria (p. 60) charges are doubled almost everywhere, and rooms should be secured long beforehand. =Cafés.= _Pasaje de Oriente_ (see below); _Cervecería Inglesa_ (Engl. beer) and _Café de Paris_, both in the Calle de la Campana; _Perla Chica_, near the Ayuntamiento (p. 65).—=Restaurant.= *_Pasaje de Oriente_, Calle de las Sierpes. The =Tramways= (_Tranvías_; cars stop where required; passengers ring to alight) all start from the Plaza de la Constitución (Pl. E, 3). For a general view of the city the circular lines ‘Constitución, Roario, Macarena’ (red cross) and ‘Constitución, Puerta Real, Puerta de Jerez’ (green cross) are recommended. The ‘Línea del Parque’ runs to the park on fine afternoons only. Cabs. │ 1–2 pers. │ 3–4 pers. │ by day │at night│ by day │at night ────────────────────┼────────┼────────┼────────┼──────── One-horse, per drive│1 p. │2 p. │1½ p. │2½ p. „ per hour │2 „ │3 „ │2½ „ │4 „ Two-horse, per drive│2 „ │4 „ │2 „ │4 „ „ per hour │3 „ │5 „ │3 „ │5 „ The night hours are from midnight to sunrise. Small articles 25 c.; trunk under 66 lbs. (30 kilos) 50 c., heavier 1 p.—During the Semana Santa and the Feria fares are about double (but not for baggage), and bargaining is advisable. Driving on Holy Thursday and Good Friday is prohibited. =Post & Telegraph Office= (_Correos y Telégrafos_; Pl. D, 4), Calle de las Sierpes. Poste-restante hours are from 8.15 to 9.45, from 12.15 to 2.15, and 6–7 p.m. =Banks.= _Crédit Lyonnais_, Calle de las Sierpes 87; _Banco Hispano-Americano_, same street, No. 91; _Banco de Cartagena_, Calle Rioja 18. =Consuls.= British, _A. L. Keyser_, Chicarreros 10 (to the E. of the Audiencia, Pl. E, 3); vice-consul, _A. Henderson_.—United States, _Ch. S. Vinans_, Mercaderes 50 (Pl. E, 3); vice-consul, _C. Karminski_.—=Lloyd’s Agent=, _José Dunipe_, Marqués de Santa Ana 14. =English Church=, Plaza del Museo (Pl. D, 5). Services in winter. =Theatres.= *_Teatro de San Fernando_ (Pl. D, E, 4), Calle de Tetuán, for operas and ballet; _Teatro de Cervantes_ (Pl. C, 4), Calle Amor de Dios, for short dramas, etc.—=Bull Ring= (_Plaza de Toros_; Pl. F, 4, 5). Famous ‘corridas’ on Easter Sunday and during the Feria. =Church Festivals.= Most curious among these are the *Processions (pasos) of the brotherhoods during Holy Week, which attract crowds of spectators. They are best witnessed from the stand in front of the town-hall (seat for the 4 days 10 p.).—The *=Feria= (18–20th April), a picturesque popular festival, founded in 1847, is held in the Prado de San Sebastián (Pl. G, 1, 2), where wealthy families have their own tents. =Sights.= Most of the churches are open in the morning only; the _Cathedral_ (p. 63) till 12 and after 3.30. In the Sacristía de los Cálices (p. 64) a ticket (permiso) for this sacristia, for the Sacristía Mayor, the Sala Capitular, and the closed chapels is obtained for 2 p. The Capilla Real is open in the forenoon only (fee ½–1 p.). The services of the importunate guides to the Cathedral and the Giralda may be dispensed with. During Holy Week, when the churches are open all day, the inspection of their art-treasures is scarcely possible. Admission to collections in private houses and charitable institutions is readily granted as a rule, but seldom without difficulty on Sundays and holidays and during Holy Week. The usual days and hours of admission are— *_Alcázar_ (p. 61), week-days 11–4; tickets (1 p.) are issued at the office at the back of the Patio de las Banderas (door No. 11). _Casa de Pilatos_ (p. 65), daily (50 c., for the poor). *_Giralda_ (p. 62), daily (25 c.); no one allowed to ascend alone. *_Hospital de la Caridad_ (p. 67), daily (fee ½–1 p.); clear weather indispensable; afternoon light best. *_Museo Provincial_ (p. 66), daily 10–3 (in summer 10–4). On Sun. the Archæological Museum is open till 1 only. TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Plaza de la Constitución_ (p. 65), _Cathedral_ (p. 63), _Alcázar_ (p. 61); afternoon, _Calle de las Sierpes_ (p. 65), _Casa de Pilatos_ (p. 65); towards evening, ascent of the _Giralda_ (p. 62).—2nd. Forenoon, _Museum_ (p. 66); afternoon, _Caridad_ (p. 67), _Paseo de las Delicias_ (p. 67), and _Parque María Luisa_ (p. 68). _Seville_, Span. _Sevilla_ (33 ft.), a city of 145,300 inhab., the capital of Andalusia and of the province of Sevilla, the seat of an Archbishop and of a University, lies in a broad plain on the left bank of the tawny _Guadalquivir_, opposite the suburb of _Triana_. At flood-tide sea-going vessels of 23 ft. draught can ascend the river to the quays of Seville, which, though 54½ M. from the sea, can thus claim to be a seaport. The harbour is annually entered by about 1000 vessels, of 1¼ millions aggregate tonnage. The city combines the features of a seaport with gay scenes of popular life and a wealth of treasures of art. The houses in the narrow winding streets, the heritage of the Moorish period, often contain charming inner courts, called _pátios_, where the inhabitants spend most of their time in summer. The larger _plazas_ or squares are mostly planted with oranges or palm-trees. Seville, as its ancient name _Hispalis_ indicates, was originally an Iberian settlement. Ever since the 2nd cent. B. C. its navigable river has made Seville a place of importance. In 411 it became the capital of the Vandals (p. 322), and in 441 the seat of the Visigoth kings, who however migrated in 567 to the more central Toledo. During the Moorish period Seville, alternately with Marakesh, was a favourite residence of the Almoravides and Almohades (p. 95); and particularly under _Yûsuf Abû Yakûb_ (1163–84) and under _Yakûb ibn Yûsuf_ (1184–98), surnamed _Al-Mansûr_ (‘the victorious’), it was embellished with many sumptuous buildings, and for a time it even surpassed Cordova in population. The Christian period begins with Frederick III. (‘the saint’) of Castile, who captured the city in 1248 and made it his residence. Among his descendants was Pedro I. (1350–69), surnamed ‘the Cruel’, of whom many anecdotes are still current. Since the discovery of America Seville has prospered greatly and vies with Cadiz as one of the chief ports of Spain. At Seville were born Spain’s two greatest painters, _Velázquez_ (1599–1660; court-painter at Madrid from 1623 onwards) and _Murillo_ (1617–82). Here too is laid the scene of several famous operas: _Mozart’s_ Don Juan and Figaro, _Rossini’s_ Barber of Seville, and _Bizet’s_ Carmen. See ‘Seville’, by _W. M. Gallichan_, in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1903); and ‘Seville’, by _A. J. Calvert_ (London, 1907). a. The Plaza del Triunfo with the Alcázar and the Cathedral. We begin our walk at the PLAZA DEL TRIUNFO (Pl. F, 3), which is bounded by three imposing edifices, the Lonja on the W. side, the Alcázar on the S., and the Cathedral on the N. The =Casa Lonja= (Pl. F, 3), the Exchange, built in the high-Renaissance style in 1583–98, contains on the upper floor the Archivo General de Indias, with the Spanish charters and deeds relating to the discovery and government of America and the Philippines. Fine view from the roof, especially of the Cathedral. The *=Alcázar= (Pl. F, 3; adm., see p. 60), originally a castle of the Almohade Yûsuf Abû Yakûb (1181; see above), dates in its present form mainly from the time of kings Pedro I. (p. 61) and Henry II. (1369–79), who caused the castle to be restored by Moorish architects in the Mudejar style (p. 51). Later alterations date from the reigns of Charles V. (1526), Philip II. (1569), and Philip IV. (1624), while modern restorations (1857–89) have materially changed the character of the interior. The EXTERIOR with its pinnacled corner-towers, still has the character of a mediæval castle. From the entrance in the S.E. angle of the Plaza del Triunfo we first cross the large Patio de las Banderas, in which are the ticket-office and a vaulted gateway (‘apeadero’). Thence we may proceed straight to the garden (see below), or to the right to the Patio de la Montería, the inner court, planted with oranges and palms. Very striking is the splendid *CHIEF FAÇADE of the inner Alcázar. The beautiful windows and side-entrances are framed with toothed arches; above them runs a rich stalactite frieze crowned with a far-projecting timber roof resting on quaint corbels. Arabic inscriptions in Cufic characters (p. 150) serve for decoration. The APARTMENTS in the interior are grouped round the Patio de las Doncellas (‘court of the maidens’), erected in 1369–79, but almost entirely rebuilt under Charles V. and Philip II. The lower story is preceded by superb Moorish arcades resting on coupled Renaissance columns. The upper walls in open-work are richly embellished with stucco. The chief rooms on the groundfloor are, on the S.E., the Salón de Carlos Quinto with its fine ‘azulejos’ (or tiles) and timber ceiling; on the S.W., the quadrangular domed *Salón de Embajadores, also richly decorated with azulejos, and the Patio de las Muñecas (dolls’ court), modern in its upper parts, so called from the figures which adorn it. From the Apeadero (see above) we may lastly visit the GARDEN of the Alcázar, with its luxuriant vegetation, a pavilion of the time of Charles V., a grotto, and fountains. Returning to the Plaza del Triunfo, we face the Cathedral, with the Capilla Real (p. 64), projecting on the E., and the clock-tower at the N.E. angle of the church, the famous— **=Giralda= (Pl. F, 3), the conspicuous landmark of the city. It was originally the minaret of the principal Moorish mosque, built in brick by the architect _Jâbir_ for Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61) in 1184–96. The tower tapers slightly towards the top and is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. It is square in form, each side being 45 ft. long, and its walls are 7 ft. thick. The upper wall-surfaces adjoining the windows, at a height of about 80 ft. above the ground, are diapered with a network of Arabesque-like sunken panels, and are further enlivened with niches. Instead of being crowned with a pinnacled platform (see altar-piece, p. 64), the tower now has a belfry (1568), capped by a small dome (305 ft.), on which stands the _Girardillo_, or vane, a bronze female figure representing Faith. The *Ascent (p. 60) is most enjoyable towards evening. Entrance by the door in the S.E. angle. An easy inclined plane, in 35 sections, and ending in 16 steps, ascends to the first gallery, where the bells are hung, and where we enjoy a very extensive view. In the Calle de Alemanes, on the N. side of the Cathedral, is the main entrance to the *=Patio de los Naranjos= (Pl. F, 3; ‘orange-court’), once the court of the mosque. The handsome entrance-gateway, called Puerta del Perdón, dates from the Moorish period. The bronze-mounted *Doors and the knockers, in the Mudejar style, and the sculptures (1519) are additions of the Christian period. The old artesonado or coffered ceiling was replaced in 1833 by a tower. In this picturesque court, where the faithful used to perform their ablutions at a fountain (al-mîdâ) before entering the sacred precincts, we stand opposite the Cathedral; on the right is the _Sagrario_ (p. 65); on the left is the _Biblioteca Colombina_, or cathedral library, founded in 1539 by Fernando Colón, Columbus’s son, above which towers the Giralda. From the orange-court the cathedral may be entered by the Puerta de los Naranjos or (on the left) by the Puerta del Lagarto. It is preferable, however, to enter on the W. side, from the Calle del Gran Capitán. The **=Cathedral= (Pl. F, 3; adm., see p. 60), one of the grandest and most sumptuous Gothic churches in the whole of Christendom, occupies the site of the principal Moorish mosque, which was erected by Yûsuf Abû Yakûb in 1171. It was begun by unknown architects in 1402, and in its chief parts was completed in 1506. The dome having collapsed in 1511, it was rebuilt from designs by _Juan Gil de Ontañón_ in 1517, and having in 1888 again fallen in it was restored by _Casanova_. The W. FAÇADE, which was not completed till 1827, as well as the E. façade, is remarkable for the wealth of sculpture on its portals. On the two lateral gateways in particular, the Puerta del Bautismo (left) and the Puerta del Nacimiento (right), we note the beautiful terracotta figures by _Pedro Millán_ (about 1500), of semi-northern character. The *INTERIOR has a nave with double aisles, two rows of side-chapels, a transept which does not project beyond the main walls, a choir in the centre, and a Capilla Mayor containing the high-altar. Exclusive of the Capilla Real, the church is 383 ft. long and 249 ft. in width. The nave is 53 ft. wide and 132 ft. high, the aisles are each 36 ft. wide and 85 ft. in height. The marble pavement is of the 18th cent., the fine stained glass of the 16th–19th centuries. The screen (reja) and the Gothic stalls (sillería) of the choir were almost entirely destroyed by the last collapse of the dome. The huge high-altar (retablo) in the Capilla Mayor is a masterpiece of Gothic wood-carving (1482–1564). The SIDE CHAPELS and the SACRISTIES form a veritable museum of sculpture and painting, but are very badly lighted. Adjoining the Puerta Mayor, the chief portal of the W. façade, are the Altar del Santo Angel, with a picture by _Murillo_ (the ‘Angel de la Guarda’ or guardian angel), and the small Altar del Nacimiento, containing admirable pictures by _Luis de Vargas_ (1502–68; ‘Adoration of the Child’ and the ‘Four Evangelists’). The fourth chapel in the S. aisle, the Capilla de Hermenegildo, contains the fine Gothic monument of Archbp. Juan de Cervantes (d. 1453), by _Lorenzo Mercadante de Bretaña_.—In the S. transept rises the very curious sarcophagus of Columbus, placed in the cathedral of Havana in 1892 and brought to Spain in 1899. To the right stands the Altar de la Gamba, with the famous painting by _Luis de Vargas_, the so-called Generación, or Adoration of the Immaculate Conception by Adam and Eve, generally known as ‘La Gamba’, from the finely drawn and painted leg of Adam. Through the Capilla de los Dolores we pass into the SACRISTÍA DE LOS CÁLICES, built in the late-Gothic style by _Diego de Riaño_ (d. 1533) and _Martin Gainza_ (d. 1566), where we obtain tickets of admission to the closed chapels, etc. (see p. 60). In front of us is a famous *Crucifix, by _Martínez Montañés_ (d. 1649), the most typical of Andalusian sculptors; on the left are a SS. Justa and Rufina, by _Goya_ (1817), and St. Dorothea by _Murillo_. On the window-wall is St. John the Evangelist, by _Zurbarán_. Adjacent to the Antesala is the *SACRISTÍA MAYOR, a magnificent room in the plateresque style, also built, after 1532, by _Riaño_ and _Gainza_, containing the rich treasury of the cathedral and three valuable pictures, a Descent from the Cross, by _Pedro Campaña_ (1548), and SS. Leander and Isidore by _Murillo_. The Capilla del Mariscal possesses an altar-piece in ten sections, the Presentation in the Temple, by _Pedro Campaña_. The elliptical *SALA CAPITULAR, begun by _Riaño_ and _Gainza_ in 1530 but not finished till after 1582, has a Doric entablature resting on Ionic mural columns, while the decoration is plateresque (Span. Renaissance). The eight ovals between the windows and the fine picture of the Immaculate Conception are by _Murillo_. On the E. side of the church we pass through a high railing (1773) into the CAPILLA REAL (adm., see p. 60), a Renaissance edifice by _Gainza_ and others (1551–75), on the site of the old royal vaults. By the entrance, right and left, are the tombs of Alfonso the Wise (d. 1284) and his mother Queen Beatrice of Swabia. In the apse is preserved the reliquary of St. Ferdinand (Ferdinand III. of Castile; p. 69), who, as well as Pedro I., is interred in the ‘Panteón’ under the chapel. In the N. aisle, beyond the Puerta del Lagarto (p. 63) is the Capilla de los Evangelistas, whose altar-piece is by _Ferd. Sturm_ (1559); on the predella, to the left, below, are SS. Justa and Rufina with the Giralda in its original form (p. 62). In the Capilla de Santiago (St. James) is a *Picture of that saint, by _Juan de las Roelas_ (1609). Most famous of all is a **_Murillo_ in the Capilla del Bautisterio (forenoon light best), the Infant Christ appearing to St. Antony of Padua (1656). The Puerta del Sagrario, the last door on the N. side of the cathedral, leads into the =Sagrario=, built as a parish-church in the baroque style in 1618–62, with a single vault 75 ft. high. The altar-piece on the left is a fine half-figure of the Mater Dolorosa by _Montañés_. b. The Central and Eastern Quarters. The lively Calle Génova or Cánovas del Castillo leads from the Cathedral to the PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN (Pl. E, 3), the focus of the city traffic. On the right is the _Audiencia_, containing the law-courts; on the left, between this plaza and the large Plaza Nueva or de San Fernando (Pl. E, 4), rises the— *=Casa del Ayuntamiento= (Pl. E, 4), or town-hall, a Renaissance edifice (1526–64) designed by _Diego de Riaño_ (p. 64). The richly decorated S. part is one of the most charming creations of the plateresque style. At the Audiencia begins the *CALLE DE LAS SIERPES (Pl. E, D, 3), or ‘street of serpents’, so named after the sign-board of an old inn. It contains the chief cafés and clubs and the largest shops, and it presents a very lively scene in the evening. This street forms the best starting-point for a walk through the E. quarters of the town. The first lateral street on the right, the Calle Sagasta, leads to the church of _San Salvador_ (Pl. D, E, 3), which contains a statue of Christ by Montañés (2nd altar on the right). From the S.E. angle of that church the Cuesta del Rosario leads to— _San Isidoro_ (Pl. E, 3), where at the high-altar a celebrated masterpiece by Roelas, the Death of St. Isidore (El Tránsito), was once closely studied by Murillo.—From San Isidoro the Calle Almirante Hoyos and Calle de Aguilas, which contain several fine patios, lead to the Plaza de Pilatos. The *=Casa de Pilatos= (Pl. E, 2; adm., see p. 60), the property of the Duque de Medinaceli, was probably begun early in the 16th cent. by Christian-Moorish architects for the Ribera family. As a member of that family had been to Jerusalem, the building was popularly supposed to be a copy of Pilate’s house. The architecture shows a curious but harmonious blend of Moorish, Gothic, and Renaissance elements. The beautiful Patio, with its colonnade and fountain, contains several antiques; in the angles are two excellent replicas of a statue of Athena, of the time of Phidias.—Adjoining the court, on the right, is the so-called Prætorium of Pilate, and straight in front are the Vestibule, with its superb azulejos, and the Chapel, with its charming Gothic-Moorish decoration. To the left of the vestibule is a room with azulejos and a rich artesonado ceiling.—A magnificent staircase, roofed by a much admired dome, ascends to the upper floor, which is not accessible. From the Plaza de Pilatos we follow the Calle de Caballerizas and Calle Descalzos to the N.W. to the pretty Plaza de Argüelles (Pl. D, 2, 3). Here rises _San Pedro_, a Gothic church of the 14th cent., containing a fine timber ceiling and pictures by Pedro Campaña and Roelas (sacristan, Calle Doña María Coronel 1). Following the Calle de la Imagen, and crossing the _Mercado_ (Pl. D, 3), we reach the Calle Laraña. The =University= (Pl. D, 3) now occupies an old Jesuit convent. The _University Church_ (entered from the quadrangle; fee ½–1 p.), built in 1565–79 by Bartolomé Bustamante (?) for the Jesuits, in the Renaissance style, contains fine Renaissance monuments and several sculptures and paintings by Montañés, Alonso Cano, Roelas, and others. The churches in the N.E. QUARTER, such as _Omnium Sanctorum_ (Pl. B, 3), _San Marcos_ (Pl. C, 2), and _Santa Marina_ (Pl. B, 2) still possess towers in the Moorish style, which were once the minarets of mosques.—The so-called _Casa del Duque de Alba_ (Pl. C, 2), Calle de las Dueñas 5, a palace built for the Riberas (p. 65) in the Mudejar style after 1483, contains a court planted with palms and a staircase richly adorned with azulejos, but the house itself is not shown. In the Calle de Santa Paula, a little to the E. of San Marcos, is the _Convento de Santa Paula_ (Pl. C, 1, 2), a nunnery founded in 1476. The forecourt has a superb Gothic portal, with terracotta ornamentation by Franc. Nicoluso of Pisa and reliefs of saints by Pedro Millán (p. 63). The rich mural azulejos (16th cent.) in the church’ are well worth seeing. In the Ronda de Capuchinos (Pl. A, 1, 2) there are considerable remains of the ancient _City Wall_, with its external towers and low parapet (‘barbacana’, after Byzantine models). c. The Western and South-Western Quarters. Starting from the small PLAZA DEL PACÍFICO (Pl. D, 4), planted with orange-trees, we follow the Calle de San Pablo to the S.W. as far as the church of _Santa Magdalena_ (Pl. D, 4) and then turn to the right into the Calle de Bailén. From this in turn we again diverge to the right and follow the Calle de Miguel de Carvajal to the PLAZA DEL MUSEO (Pl. D, 5; officially, Plaza de la Condesa de Casa Galindo), in which rises a _Bronze Statue of Murillo_. The *=Museo Provincial= (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 60), occupying an old monastery of Mercenarii (_Convento de la Merced_), contains the small _Museo Arqueológico_ and the _Museo de Pinturas_, a famous picture-gallery. The gallery contains several valuable sculptures, but its chief treasure consists in 23 _Murillos_, mostly from the old Capuchin monastery (Pl. A, B, 1), depicting the legend of St. Francis of Assisi and the foundation of the Franciscan order. A small court leads to the N. CLOISTERS, where the antiques (Roman, Visigothic, Moorish), along with some modern works, are exhibited. From the nearer aisle of the cloisters an azulejos-portal leads straight into the— GREAT HALL of the picture-gallery, once the convent-church. The **_Murillos_ are all hung on the walls of the nave. On the S. wall, by the entrance, note specially the Concepción, the Annunciation, SS. Leander and Bonaventura, and the ‘Virgen de la Servilleta’, said to have been painted on a table-napkin. On the N. wall we note St. Felix of Cantalicio with the Infant Jesus, the *Almsgiving of St. Thomas of Villanueva, the great Conception, the Adoration or the Shepherds, and Christ on the Cross embracing St. Francis. On the end-wall of the church is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew by _Roelas_. The transept and choir are hung with numerous pictures by _Zurbarán_ (notably the Triumph of St. Thomas Aquinas, in the choir). Here, too, are several *Sculptures: _Pietro Torrigiani_, Virgin and Child, with the penitent St. Jerome (in terracotta); _Montañés_, wooden figures of the Virgin and Child, John the Baptist, and St. Dominicus. A room on the UPPER FLOOR contains modern pictures. The Calle de los Reyes Católicos, in line with the Calle de San Pablo (p. 66), ends at the Puente de Isabel Segunda (Pl. F, 6), the chief bridge crossing to the suburb of _Triana_. A little short of the bridge we turn to the left and follow the PASEO DE CRISTÓBAL COLÓN (Pl. E, F, 5, 4), skirting the left bank of the Guadalquivir and the quays. On the left lie the _Bull Ring_ (Pl. F, 4, 5); then the pretty PLAZA DE ATARAZANAS (Pl. F, 4; Arabic Dâr as-San῾a, ‘arsenal’, ‘place of work’), on the site of the old Moorish wharf, where the great _Artillery Arsenal_ (Maestranza), the Hospital de la Caridad, and the _Custom House_ (Aduana), are now situated. The =Hospital de la Caridad= (Pl. F, 4; adm., see p. 60), erected for the ‘brotherhood of charity’ (Hermandad de la Caridad) in 1661–4, possesses, in its baroque church, six far-famed **_Murillos_ (1660–74). Two of these in particular are the delight and admiration of every beholder: Moses striking the Rock (Cuadro de las Aguas, or La Sed, ‘the thirst’) and the Feeding of the Five Thousand (Pan y Peces, ‘bread and fishes’). Besides these pictures there are, on the left, the Infant Christ, the Annunciation, and San Juan de Dios carrying sick persons into the hospital; on the right, the young John the Baptist. By tho high-choir are two singular but repulsive pictures by _Juan Valdés Leal_ (1630–91), the Raising of the Cross and the Triumph of Death. Near the S. angle of the Plaza, close to the river, rises the =Torre del Oro= (Pl. G, 4), once a fortified tower of the Moorish Alcázar (p. 61), and ever since called the ‘tower of gold’ on account of its brilliant azulejos. The upper part of the tower dates from the Christian period only; the window openings and the balconies were constructed in 1760. Near the Torre del Oro begin the *=Public Gardens= of Seville, which, particularly in spring, when roses, camellias, and orange-blossom are in their glory, afford a delightful promenade. The favourite part is the _Paseo de las Delicias_ (Pl. H, 3), beginning at the _Palacio de Santelmo_ (Pl. G, 3; now a priests’ seminary), where the people of fashion drive on fine afternoons. On the way back we may walk through the _Parque María Luisa_ (Pl. H, 2), once part of the Santelmo gardens, and regain the town by the Calle San Fernando, passing the great _Tobacco Factory_ (Pl. G, 3), a huge baroque building of 1757. 8. From Seville to Cordova. 81½ M. RAILWAY (Seville and Madrid Line) in 2¾–4¾ hrs. (fares 16 p. 40, 12 p. 30, 7 p. 40 c.); one _train de luxe_ daily, 1st cl. only, fare 10 per cent higher. Trains start from the Estación de Córdoba. _Seville_, see p. 59. We follow the Guadalquivir upstream, at some distance from its lofty reddish banks, which are visible at times. Nearing (13½ M.) _Brenes_ we enjoy a last retrospect of the cathedral of Seville with the Giralda. 22 M. _Tocina_, the junction for Mérida and Lisbon. Beyond (25½ M.) _Guadajoz_ we cross to the right bank of the Guadalquivir. 46½ M. _Peñaflor_, adjoining rapids of the river which drive large mills. 49 M. _Palma del Río_, at the confluence of the Guadalquivir with the _Genil_ (p. 74). 67½ M. _Almodóvar_, with a loftily situated Moorish castle, now being restored. 81½ M. =Cordova.=—At the STATION (_Estación de Madrid, Sevilla y Málaga_; Pl. B, C, 1; Rail. Restaur.) are omnibuses from the chief hotels. HOTELS (comp. p. 51; charges should be arranged beforehand). _Hot. Suizo_ (Pl. a; C, 2), corner of Calle Duque de Hornachuelos and the narrow Calle Diego León, pens, from 12½ p., variously judged.—Less expensive: _Hot. de Oriente_ (Pl. c; C, 2), pens. 8–10 p.; _Hot. de España & Francia_ (Pl. b; C, 2), pens. 8 p.; _Hot. Simón_ (Pl. d; C, 2), pens. 5–6 p., very fair; these three are in the Paseo del Gran Capitán; _Cuatro Naciones_, Calle San Miguel 4. CAFÉS. _Café-Restaur. Suizo_, Calle Ambrosio de Morales (Pl. D, 3); _La Perla_, Calle del Conde de Gondomar No. 1, _Cervecería Alemana_ No. 8. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. D, 3), Plazuela de Seneca. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Richard Eshott Carr_. HALF-A-DAY, when time presses: _Cathedral_ (open all day, except 12–2; closes 2 hrs. before sunset); visit to the Mihrâb, Renaissance choir, Mudejar chapel, etc., for which a permiso (2 p.) is obtained at the Oficina de la Obrería, adjoining the Puerta del Perdón; then the _Guadalquivir Bridge_, with the _Calahorra_; the _Paseo del Gran Capitán_ and _Jardines de la Victoria_. _Cordŏva_, Span. _Córdoba_ (391 ft.), a provincial capital and the seat of a bishop, with 60,000 inhab., lies at the foot of the _Sierra de Córdoba_, a spur of the Sierra Morena, in a plain sloping gently down to the _Guadalquivir_. The town, whose ancient glory has long departed, now contains little or nothing to interest the expectant traveller except the mosque, now the Cathedral, which in spite of many later additions and disfigurements, is still the grandest monument in Spain of the Moorish period. Other memorials of this Mecca of the Occident, once famous as a patroness of science also, now survive only in several portals and inscriptions. [Illustration: CÓRDOBA] [Illustration: Guadalquivir] _Corduba_, the most important of the ancient Iberian towns on the upper course of the Bætis, became a Roman colony in 152 B.C., and was noted for its commerce and its wealth. The Visigothic king _Leovigild_ wrested it in 571 from the Byzantines and made it an episcopal see. After the decisive battle of 711 (p. 51) Cordova was captured by the Moors, aided by the Jews who were alienated by the arrogance of the Visigoths. With the Moorish sway begins the world-wide fame of the city, especially from the time when the emir _Abderrahmân I._, of the house of the _Omaiyades_ (p. 485), on his escape from the massacre of his family at Damascus, settled at Cordova in 756 and declared his independence of the Oriental caliphate. As the capital of the Spanish or western caliphate, Cordova soon became the wealthiest city in Spain, and even for a short time the richest in Europe, notably under _Abderrahmân II._ (822–52) and _Abderrahmân III._ (912–61), the greatest of the Omaiyades, and also under the governor (hâjib) _Al-Mansûr_ (d. 1002). It even rivalled Bagdad and Fez as a brilliant centre of Mohammedan culture, to which students flocked from every part of the Occident. At length, after the _Almoravides_ and _Almohades_ (p. 95), who had been summoned to aid the citizens against the Christians, had vainly attempted to arrest the decay of the city, Cordova fell, in 1236, into the hands of _Ferdinand III. of Castile_, who expelled the Moorish inhabitants and in 1248 made Seville his residence. The city afterwards fell into decay and poverty, and the once highly extolled Campiña became a desolate wilderness. See ‘Cordova’, by _A. F. Calvert_ and _W. M. Gallichan_ (London, 1907). From the Carrera de la Estación, or ‘station street’, bearing a little to the left, we enter the _Paseo del Gran Capitán_ (Pl. C, 1, 2), the favourite promenade of the townsfolk on summer evenings. At the S. end of the Paseo, near the church of _San Nicolás de la Villa_ (Pl. C, 2), with its octagonal tower, once a minaret, we take the Calle del Conde de Gondomar to the left, and then, just short of the Hotel Suizo, follow the Calle de Jesús María (Pl. C, 2, 3) to the right. This street, continued by the Calle de Angel de Saavedra, the Calle Pedregosa, and the Calle Céspedes, leads to the S. to the cathedral. The **=Cathedral= (Pl. C, 3, 4; adm., see p. 68), once the _Mesjid al-Jâmia_, or ‘chief mosque’ of the city, one of the greatest in the world, and still called _La Mezquita_, is the grandest and noblest creation of Moorish architecture in Spain. The mosque was founded by Abderrahmân I. in 785, on the site of a Christian church, and was intended to form a great religious centre for all believers in Spain, and to induce the great stream of western pilgrims to repair to Cordova instead of to Mecca. A model for the edifice was found in the arcaded courts and colonnaded halls of the Egyptian mosques (such as the Amru Mosque, p. 460). The original edifice contained only ten rows of columns, which formed eleven longitudinal and twelve transverse aisles. The central aisle was a little wider than the others and ended in a Mihrâb, or prayer-recess, designed to mark the direction of Mecca (Kibla). As the building soon proved inadequate for the population, which was rapidly increased by accessions from the East, Abderrahmân II., in 833–48, added seven transepts on the S. side and erected a new mihrâb. A further prolongation by fourteen transepts was effected by AlHâkim II. (961–76), after which the magnificent third mihrâb (mihrâb nuevo) formed the termination of the building. Though the mosque was now considered the finest in the Occident, rivalling the Kairuin mosque at Fez, it failed to satisfy the ambition of Al-Mansûr (p. 69). As the sloping ground on the S. side precluded extension in that direction, this governor, in 987–90, caused seven new rows of columns to be raised on the E. side, thus increasing the number of aisles to nineteen, but destroying the symmetrical plan of the building, which required the mihrâb, or holy of holies, to be in line with the main axis of the building. After the conquest of Cordova by the Christians in 1236 (p. 69) the mosque was dedicated to the Virgin (Virgen de la Asunción). The Spaniards at first confined their operations to walling up most of the doors and then fitting up side-chapels along the walls. As the needs of the Christian ritual, however, soon demanded the construction of a choir (primitivo coro), part of the second mihrâb and the adjoining aisles had in 1260 to be demolished. Still greater damage was done by the insertion of the Renaissance choir in the centre of the building, and of the Sala Capitular, or sacristy, in the middle of the S. wall. The GROUND PLAN forms an immense rectangle of about 575 by 427 ft., of which fully a third is occupied by the court. Court and church are surrounded by a fortress-like battlemented wall which, on three sides, rests on massive substructions. Nothing indicates the object of the building except the rich portals, flanked with niches and windows, and, on the N. side, adjoining the Calle del Obispo Herrero, the _Campanario_ or bell-tower (305 ft. high), which was substituted for the Moorish minaret in 1593. Ascent of the tower interesting (adm. 25 c.; 255 steps). The *_Puerta del Perdón_, the main gateway, restored in 1377 on the model of the gate of that name at Seville (p. 63), adjoins the clock-tower and leads into the— *_Patio de los Naranjos_ (‘orange-court’), once the court of the mosque, where the faithful performed their ablutions. Light and spacious, yet well-shaded by orange and palm-trees, watered by five fountains, and always enlivened with groups of quiet visitors, it presents a typical scene of Oriental repose. The avenues were originally laid out in line with the colonnades in the interior of the mosque. The old arcades of the court (claustro) are now walled up on the N. side. Of the nineteen gates on the S. side, two only, the _Puerta de las Palmas_, the chief entrance to the cathedral, and the small doorway of the eastmost colonnade are now open. The *INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL, in spite of its moderate height (37 ft.), and in spite of much disfigurement, is singularly impressive. In the subdued light the forest of columns seems endless. They average 13 ft. only in height, and are of the most diverse materials, many of them having been brought from late-Roman buildings or from Christian churches. The capitals show a marvellous wealth of design; their bases are buried in the pavement, the level of which has been raised by 11–14 inches in the course of centuries. The vast number of horseshoe arches which connect the columns, in the direction of the length of the church, and the upper semicircular arches resting on projecting pillars impart peculiar life to the building. The painted timber-ceilings of the different roofs have been restored in their original style. The sumptuous mosaic pavement has disappeared, and so too have the countless chandeliers and lamps which burned perpetually during the Moorish period. The wealth of artistic decoration was lavished chiefly on the mihrâbs, the first of which has been entirely destroyed. The second and third were each provided with a vestibule and two side-rooms, part of which was formerly shut off to form the Caliph’s maksûra (or court-platform). The vestibule of the *Second Mihrâb, with its superb shell-vaulting, still exists. The **THIRD MIHRÂB is considered a marvel of art. The front is adorned with two rows of columns, one above the other, and with double toothed arches. The vestibule, now Capilla de San Pedro, and the prayer-niche itself, a kind of heptagonal chapel of barely 13 ft. in diameter, exhibit the most elaborate efforts of early-Moorish art, especially in the rich marble plinth and in the coloured glass mosaics executed by Byzantine artists. The toothed arches of the windows and the boldly interlacing arches of the superb dome point to a later high development of Moorish art. Of the CHRISTIAN ADDITIONS to the church one of the most noteworthy is the sumptuous _Capilla Mudéjar de San Fernando_, to the left of the second mihrâb, erected over the old royal vault. The *_Renaissance Choir_ (Coro and Capilla Mayor), designed by _Hernán Ruiz the Elder_ in 1523, was completed, with many alterations, in 1627. Though only 256 by 79 ft. in size, it is crowded with no less than 63 columns, and it rises high above the roof of the mosque. It is considered a masterpiece of the plateresque style, but has ruined the original symmetry of the mosque. The =Alcázar= (Pl. C, 4; now a prison), erected in 1328, contains but scanty relics of the ancient Moorish castle. The Calle Torrijos, on the W. side of the cathedral, descends to the _Puerta del Puente_, a triumphal arch of the time of Philip II., on the site of the Moorish bridge gateway. The Moorish *=Bridge= (Pl. C, D, 4) of sixteen arches, resting on Roman foundations, here unites Cordova with the S. suburb of _Campo de la Verdad_. Halfway across we have a fine view of the cathedral, and of a dam, up the river, with Moorish mills. The massive tête-de-pont, _Calahorra_ (Iberian _Calagurris_), also is of Moorish origin. Returning into the town from the bridge, we may next visit the _Puerta Almodóvar_ (Pl. B, 3), a relic of the Moorish city-wall, and then walk through the _Jardines de la Victoria_ to the station. 9. From Cordova viâ Bobadilla to Granada. 153 M. RAILWAY in 6¼–8½ hrs. (fares 36 p. 30, 28 p. 20, 19 p. 30 c.); express on Mon. & Frid. only; change at Bobadilla (Railway Restaurant). Beyond Bobadilla views to the right. _Cordova_, see p. 68.—The train crosses the _Guadalquivir_ and runs through a dreary hill-country (_Campiña_). Looking back, we see Cordova, the Sierra of Cordova, and Almodóvar (p. 68). We cross the _Guadajoz_ several times. Beyond (21 M.) _Fernán Núñez_ the vine and olive culture begins. 31 M. _Montilla_ (1165 ft.), once famed for its _Amontillado_, resembling the wine of Xeres (p. 59). Farther on, to the left, we have a view of the distant Sierra Nevada (p. 49). 47 M. _Puente Genil_ (Rail. Restaur.). The town lies 2 M. to the N.W., and is seen to the right as we cross a lofty bridge over the _Genil_ (see below). The train ascends to the plateau of the _Sierra de Yeguas_, in view, farther on, of abrupt Jurassic mountains. 62 M. =La Roda=, junction for Utrera. (Lines to Cadiz and Seville, see R. 6.) Running to the S.W. the train soon reaches the watershed (1477 ft.) between the Guadalquivir and the Guadalhorce. Beyond (69½ M.) _Fuente Piedra_ we observe on the right the _Laguna Salada_, a salt-lake resembling the shotts of N. Africa (p. 169). 77 M. =Bobadilla=, see p. 57. The Granada train diverges to the N.E. from the Málaga line (R. 11), and ascends the broad valley of the _Guadalhorce_. On the right soon appears the _Sierra de Abdalajis_. 87 M. _Antequera_ (1346 ft.; Fonda de la Castaña and others), the Roman _Anticaria_, lies picturesquely at the N. base of the hills, with a ruined Moorish castle. The _Cueva de Menga_, 10 min. to the E. of the town, is one of the largest dolmens in Spain. 99½ M. _Archidona_; the town lies on a hill, 3¾ M. to the S.—We next cross the watershed between the Guadalhorce and the _Genil_ and descend through several tunnels. After the third the snow-covered _Sierra Nevada_ suddenly appears towards the E. 121 M. _Loga_, the _Lôsha_ of the Moors, together with _Alhama_, a little town on the hill 12½ M. to the S.E., once ‘the keys of Granada’, were captured by the Catholic kings (p. 75) in 1488. [Illustration: GRANADA] The country is now hilly and at places sandy; the Genil with its Vega (p. 73) remains on the right. 132 M. _Tocón_, at the foot of the _Sierra de Prugo_, On the left rises the bare _Sierra de Parapanda_, which the natives of Granada regard as a barometer. 144 M. _Pinos Puente_, at the foot of the barren _Sierra de Elvira_. We next enter the fertile _Vega_, enclosed by olive-clad hills. 148 M. _Atarfe_, station for _Santa Fe_, 3 M. to the S.W., on the left bank of the Genil, built in the form of a Roman camp by Isabella the Catholic during the siege of Granada. The capitulation was signed here in 1491 (p. 75), and so too, in 1492, was the contract with Columbus regarding his voyage of discovery (p. 5). In the foreground appears the lofty _Albaicín_ (p. 74); then, overtopped by the Sierra Nevada, (153 M.) _Granada_ (see below). 10. Granada. The STATION (_Estación de los Ferrocarriles Andaluces_; Pl. B, 6; no buffet) is 1¾ M. from the hotels in the Puerta Real and nearly 2 M. from those near the Alhambra. Hotel-omnibus to the former 1, to the latter 2 p.; an ‘omnibus general’ (50 c. each pers. or each trunk) plies to the _Despacho Central_ (p. 51), opposite the Hot. Victoria. =Hotels= (comp. p. 51). _Near the Alhambra_, in the Alhambra Park, a beautiful, but in winter a cold situation, ¾ M. above the town (2–3 min. from the hill-tramway station; see below): HOT. WASHINGTON IRVING (Pl. b; F, 2), with the dépendance SIETE SUELOS (Pl. c; F, 2), patronized by English and Americans; ALHAMBRA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; F, 3), new, R. 6–12½, pens. 20–35 p.; *PENS. MISS LAIRD, Carmen de Bella Vista, with garden, 8½–12 p. per day; HOT. DEL BOSQUE DE LA ALHAMBRA, at the N. base of the Alhambra Hill, below the Torre de Comares (Pl. E, 2), pens. 8–15 p., well spoken of.—_In the Town_ (ca. 1¾ M. from the Alhambra): *HOT. ALAMEDA (Pl. d; F, 5), adjoining the shady Carrera del Genil, with view of the Sierra Nevada, pens. 8–20 p.; HOT. DE PARIS (Pl. e; E, 4), Gran Via de Colón 5, with terrace, restaurant, etc., pens. 9–20 p.; HOT. VICTORIA, on the W. side of the Puerta Real, with fine view, pens. from 8 p., Spanish, quite good; HOT. NUEVO ORIENTE (Pl. g; E, 5), Plaza de Cánovas del Castillo 8, pens. 7 p., quite Spanish, very fair; FONDA NAVÍO, Calle Martínez Campos (Pl. E, 5), with a favourite restaurant.—Drinking-water not good. =Cafés.= _Café Colón_, Calle de los Reyes Católicos (Pl. E, 4); _Imperial_, Carrera del Genil (Pl. F, 5). =Tramways.= 1. _Plaza Nueva_ (Pl. E, 4)-_Cocheras_ (red disc): through the Calle de los Reyes Católicos (Pl. E, 4, 5) to the Puerta Real, the University (Pl. D, 5), and the Rail. Station (Pl. B, A, 6).—2. _Plaza Nueva-Cervantes_ (yellow): viâ the Puerta Real and the Carrera del Genil to the Paseo de la Bomba (Pl. G, H, 4).—3. _Puerta Real_ (Pl. E, 5)-_Vistillas-Alhambra_ (green): viâ the Plaza Nueva to the Puerta de los Molinos (Pl. G, 3; change), then by the hill-tramway (rack-and-pinion) to the Alhambra Park (Cuesta de las Cruces; Pl. F, 2, 3), in ¼ hr.; fare 30 c. =Cabs= (stationed in the Carrera del Genil). Drive in the town, with one horse 1, with two horses 2½ p.; per hour 2 or 3 p.—To the Alhambra, Albaicín (p. 79), and Sacro Monte (p. 78) 5 p. extra (but bargain advisable). Carr. and pair may be had also from the Despacho Central or the Alhambra hotels (3 p. per hour). =Post & Telegraph Office= (_Correo_; Pl. E, 4), Calle de los Reyes Católicos. Post-office open 10–12 and after 2; poste restante letters delivered 1 hr. after arrival of trains. =British Vice-Consul=, _Chas. E. S. Davenhill_. =Sights.= _Alhambra_ (p. 79), daily, 9–12 and 1–6, adm. 50 c.–1 p., on Sun. free; some rooms specially shown by the custodian.—_Generalife_ (p. 87), best by morning light; tickets (papeletas) at the Casa de los Tiros (p. 77), on week-days, 9–11, free.—The _Cathedral_ (p. 76), daily, closed between 11 and 2.30; the _Capilla Real_ (p. 76), either in the morning before high-mass (in winter at 10, in summer at 9), or 2.30 to 4, in summer 3–5 p.m.—The smaller churches are usually open from an early hour till 8.30 or 9 only, but are shown later by the sacristan (fee).—The usual hours for other sights are 8–12 and 2–6; between 12 and 2 a substantial fee is exacted. =Promenades.= In winter, Carrera del Genil (p. 77), 3–5; in summer, Paseo del Salón (p. 77) and Paseo de la Bomba, 5–7. Band on Sun. and Thurs. =Guides= at the hotels, needless except when time presses. Those who pester strangers in the streets and at the entrance to the Alhambra, as well as gipsy beggars, should be disregarded. CHIEF ATTRACTIONS (two days). 1st. Forenoon: the _Cathedral_ (p. 76); _Placeta de la Lonja_ (p. 77); _Casa de los Tiros_ (p. 77); _Carrera del Genil_; *_Paseo del Salón_; afternoon: _Alameda del Darro_ (p. 78); *View from _San Nicolás_ (p. 79) or from _San Miguel el Alto_ (p. 79).—2nd. *_Alhambra_ (p. 79) and _Generalife_ (p. 87). _Granáda_ (2195 ft.; pop. 69,000), once the capital of the Moorish kingdom, and now that of the province of Granada, the residence of an archbishop and seat of a university, lies most picturesquely at the foot of two hills (about 490 ft. high), which gradually slope to the E. up to the _Cerro del Sol_, and descend abruptly to the fertile, well-watered river-plain of the _Vega_. The _Albaicín_, the northmost of the two hills, the oldest quarter of Granada, once the residence of the Moorish aristocracy, but now inhabited chiefly by gipsies, forms a town by itself. The deep ravine of the _Darro_, which is generally dry as its water is much diverted for irrigation purposes, separates the Albaicín from the _Monte de la Assabica_, or Alhambra Hill to the S. (comp. p. 79). The Darro, descending from the N.E., turns to the S. near the Alhambra Hill and falls into the more important _Genil_. The two hills were once occupied by Iberian and then by Roman settlements, the one on the Albaicín having perhaps already borne the name of _Garnata_. Soon after 711 the Moors built the ‘Old Castle’ (Al-Kasaba al-Kadîma) on the site of Garnata. After the decline of the caliphate of Cordova (p. 69) _Zâwi ibn Zîri_, the governor of Granada, declared himself independent in 1031, and founded here the dynasty of the _Zirites_, which, however, was overthrown by the Almoravides (p. 95) in 1090. As the power of the Almohades (p. 95) declined the native governors revolted anew. At length in 1246 Granada became the seat of the _Nasride Dynasty_ founded by _Al-Ahmar_ (‘_Mohammed I._‘), which, after the fall of Seville, succeeded, in alliance alternately with the Castilians and the Merinides (p. 95), in retaining possession of Granada, Málaga, and Almería for nearly 250 years. Mohammed I. offered an asylum in Granada to the Moors who were expelled from Cordova, Valencia, and Seville, and began the building of the ‘New Castle’ (Al-Kasaba al-Jedîda) on the hill of the Alhambra. His successors afterwards created the Alhambra Palace, the most sumptuous of royal residences. Thanks to their fostering care for agriculture and industry, for science, art and architecture, Granada attained such brilliant prosperity as even to eclipse the fame of the old caliphate of Cordova. The downfall of the kingdom of Granada was at length brought about by party struggles between the _Zegri_, the _Beni Serrâj_ (the _Abencerrages_ of legend; comp. p. 84), and other noble families, and by quarrels between king _Mulei Abu’l-Hasan_ (d. 1485) and his son _Boabdil_; a welcome opportunity was thus afforded to Ferdinand and Isabella, the so-called ‘Catholic Kings’, of intervening and thus gaining their life-long object of destroying the last Moorish kingdom in Spain. After the death of his father Boabdil remained inactive when Ferdinand proceeded to besiege Málaga (p. 90); he made one despairing attempt at resistance when the Spaniards demanded the evacuation of Granada, but in 1491 had to conclude a humiliating peace. He soon afterwards crossed the Sierra Nevada and retired to Tlemcen in N. Africa (p. 187), where he ended his inglorious career. With the Spanish domination began the decay of the city; it was depopulated by the decrees of the Catholic Kings, the Inquisition held fearful sway here, and ere long Granada became a ‘living ruin’. Within the last few years, however, the busy tourist traffic, the establishment of sugar-factories, and the prosperous mining industry of the Sierra Nevada have somewhat repaired the fortunes of the city, and several of the old quarters have been entirely modernized. But its picturesque history, its memorials of the most glorious period of Moorish culture and art, and the striking view of the snow-mountains it affords will ever render it the most fascinating goal of travellers in Andalusia. See ‘Granada: Memories, Adventures, Studies, and Impressions’, by _Leonard Williams_ (London, 1906); and ‘Granada and the Alhambra’, by _A. F. Calvert_ (London, 1907). a. The Lower Town. Leaving the railway-station (Pl. B, 6; tramway No. 1, see p. 73), we follow the Calle Real de San Lázaro to the S.E. to the _Paseo del Triunfo_ (Pl. C, 4), so named from the column in honour of the Virgin (triunfo). Here, by the half-ruined _Puerta de Elvira_ (Pl. C, 4), begin the old Calle de Elvira and the new GRAN VIA DE COLÓN (Pl. C-E, 4), both leading to the chief artery of traffic, the narrow— CALLE DE LOS REYES CATÓLICOS (Pl. E, 4, 5), which is built above the Darro, and connects the busy Puerta Real (Pl. E, 5), to the S.W., with the Plaza Nueva (Pl. E, 4; officially, Plaza Rodriguez Bolivar), to the N.E., at the foot of the Alhambra Hill (p. 79). In the Calle de Lopez Rubio, a side-street, is the so-called _Casa del Carbón_, once a Moorish granary, with picturesque horseshoe arches and stalactite vaulting. To the S.W. of it is the modern town-hall (_Ayuntamiento_). The short streets on the opposite side lead to the _Alcaicería_, (Pl. E, 4, 5), with its numerous columns, which was burned down in 1843, once a Moorish market-hall (Al-Kaisariya), resembling the Oriental sûks (p. 335), and to the modernized _Plaza de Bibarrambla_ (Pl. E, 5), named after a Moorish city-gate which once stood here. A few paces from these lies the PLACETA DE LAS PASIEGAS. Here, surrounded by buildings which mar its effect, rises the— *=Cathedral= (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), an imposing memorial of the conquest of Spain, and the finest Renaissance church in the kingdom. It was begun in 1523 by _Enrique de Egas_ in the Gothic style, continued in 1525 by _Diego de Siloe_ (d. 1533) in the plateresque style (p. 51), and consecrated, while still unfinished, in 1561. The N. tower only, which is now 187 ft. high, has been erected; the huge façade was begun in 1667 by _Alonso Cano_, who was also the chief author of the sculpture and painting in the church; the interior was not completed till 1703. Two of the SIDE PORTALS, the Puerta de San Jerónimo, the first entrance to the N. in the Calle de Jiménez de Cisneros, and the Puerta del Colegio, on the E. side of the ambulatory, are adorned with sculptures by _Siloe_ and others. The *Puerta del Perdón, the second portal to the N., also owes the beautiful ornamentation of its lower part to _Siloe_. The *INTERIOR (adm., see p. 74) has double aisles with two rows of chapels, a lofty transept which does not project beyond the side-walls, a central choir, and a Capilla Mayor with ambulatory. The vaulting, 100 ft. in height, is borne by massive pillars and half-columns. Total length 380, breadth 220 ft. The decoration in white and gold harmonizes well with the fine marble pavement (1775). The *CAPILLA MAYOR, 148 ft. long and 154 ft. high, is crowned with a dome resting on Corinthian columns. On the pillars in front of the marble high-altar are kneeling statues of the ‘Catholic Kings’, by _Pedro de Mena_ and _Medrano_ (1677); above them are painted *Busts of Adam and Eve, in oak, by _Alonso Cano_, who painted also the representation of the Seven Joys of Mary. SIDE CHAPELS. The Capilla de San Miguel, on the right, lavishly decorated in 1807, contains a picture by _Al. Cano_, the Mater Dolorosa (after Gasp. Becerra).—In the Capilla de la Trinidad, beyond the door of the Sagrario (p. 77), is a painting of the Trinity by _Al. Cano_.—The Altar de Jesús Nazareno contains *Pictures by _Dom. Theotocópuli_ (St. Francis) and _Ribera_; the fine Bearing of the Cross is by _Al. Cano_.—By the same artist are also the fine oaken busts of St. Paul and John the Baptist in the Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, adjoining the N. aisles. From the first chapel in the ambulatory, to the right of the Puerta del Colegio, a portal by _Siloe_ leads through an ante-room (antesacristía) into the SACRISTY (18th cent.), containing a crucifix by Montañés (p. 61) and an Annunciation and a Conception (a sculpture) by _Al. Cano_. A handsome portal leads from the right transept into the late-Gothic *=Capilla Real=, the burial-chapel of the ‘Catholic Kings’, where Charles V. caused his parents Philip of Austria and Juana the Insane also to be interred. The marble *Monuments are in the Italian early-Renaissance style: on the right those of Ferdinand and Isabella, by the Florentine _Domenico Fancelli_; on the left, Philip and Juana, by _Bartolomé Ordóñez_. The high-altar, with the kneeling statuettes of the ‘Catholic Kings’, is by _Philip Vigarní_, a Burgundian; the reliefs in wood, historically interesting, represent (left) the surrender of the Alhambra keys and (right) the compulsory baptism of the Moors. Behind the reliquary altars, which are opened on four festival-days only, are hung Madonnas by _Dierick Bouts_, altar-wings by _Roger van der Weyden_, a Madonna and a Descent from the Cross by _Memling_, and other pictures. Over an altar in the right aisle is a *Winged Picture by _D. Bouts_. The third great addition to the cathedral, the =Sagrario=, erected as a parish church in 1705–59, occupies the site of the ancient mosque, with its eleven aisles, which was used for Christian worship down to 1661. The picturesque PLACETA DE LA LONJA (Pl. E, 4), on the S. side of the cathedral, affords a good view of the _Lonja_ (Exchange), built in 1518–22, which stands before the Sagrario, of the rich architecture of the Capilla Real, and of the— =Casa del Cabildo Antigua=, once the seat of the Moorish university founded here after the downfall of Cordova and Seville, afterwards the residence of the ‘Catholic Kings’, and now a cloth magazine. Its fantastic exterior dates from the 18th cent.; in the interior are two interesting rooms of the Moorish period (fee 50 c.). * * * * * From the E. end of the Calle de los Reyes Católicos (p. 75) the Calle Castro y Serrano and Calle Doctor Eximio lead to the right to the _Casa de los Tiros_ (Pl. E, 4), a building in the Moorish castellated style, dating from the 15th cent., and now owned by the Marquesa de Campotéjar. The court contains a venerable tree-like vine. Tickets for the Generalife (comp. p. 74) are issued here. The Calle de Santa Escolástica leads hence to the Plaza de Santo Domingo (Pl. F, 4) and the old monastery of _Santo Domingo_ (now a military school), with its pleasing church (15–17th cent.).—A little to the S.W. is the— _Cuarto Real de Santa Domingo_ (Pl. F, 4; admittance seldom granted), the Al-Majarra of the Moors, now named after a tower of the 13th cent., a superb villa with a Moorish portal and a hall whose charming decoration is older than the Alhambra. The beautiful garden is said to have been laid out in Moorish times. We now cross the Plaza Bailén to the N.W. to the favourite winter promenade (p. 74), the _Carrera del Genil_ (Pl. E-G, 5), shaded with plane-trees, which begins at the Puerta Real (p. 75) and now comprises the former _Alameda_. Adjoining the Carrera on the left is the— *=Paseo del Salón= (Pl. G, 5, 4). planted with elms and adorned with a bronze statue of _Isabella the Catholic_. Delightful view to the N.E. of Monte Mauror with the Torres Bermejas (p. 80); to the S.E. towers the majestic Sierra Nevada, from whose rocky crest the _Picacho de la Veleta_ (11,148 ft.), the grandest point of view in all Andalusia, alone rises conspicuously. b. Darro Valley and Albaicín. At the mouth of the Darro Valley lies the PLAZA NUEVA (Pl. E, 4; p. 75), another focus of traffic (tramways, see p. 73). On the left is the _Audiencia_, formerly the Chancilleria, built in 1531–87 for the Capitán General or governor. The pretty arcaded court was probably designed by Diego de Siloe (p. 76). A few paces farther to the E. the Darro is not covered in. Here, on the right, on the site of an old mosque, is the church of =Santa Ana= (Pl. E, 3), a Renaissance building, perhaps designed by _Diego de Siloe_ in 1541, with a fine plateresque portal and an admirable timber ceiling. The tower, built by _Juan Castellar_ in 1561–3, with its azulejos and jutting roof resting on corbels, resembles a minaret. Opposite the church, on the right bank of the Darro, begins the CARRERA DEL DARRO (Pl. E, 3, 2), one of the oldest parts of Granada, affording picturesque views, notably of the towers and walls of the Alhambra, which had its oldest approach from this quarter. (Part of a horseshoe arch of the bridge is seen on the left bank.) The _Bañuelo_, at No. 37, now occupied by poor families, is a Moorish bath, dating perhaps from the 11th century. On the right side of the street we come to the church of _San Pedro y San Pablo_ (Pl. E, 3, 2), with its fine timber ceiling. On the opposite bank of the Darro we observe traces of the landslip under the N.E. corner of the Alcazaba (p. 81), below which are the arches of an aqueduct. To the N. of the church is the _Casa de Castril_, a curious Renaissance building with an ornate portal by a pupil of Siloe. We next reach the ALAMEDA DEL DARRO (Pl. E, 2), planted with elms; above us, on the right, is the Generalife (p. 87); on the left, Albaicín (p. 79). Crossing the bridge to the right we enter the steep CUESTA DEL REY CHICO (Pl. F, 2), which leads through the ravine mentioned at p. 79, and past the Moorish towers of the Alhambra, to the _Puerta de Hierro_ (p. 87), the E. gate of the Alhambra, and to the _Generalife_. From the Darro the CUESTA DEL CHAPIZ (Pl. E, D, 2) ascends to the N. to the old suburb of _Albaida_. The street is named after the _Casa del Chapiz_, erected early in the 16th cent. in the Mudejar style for two Morisco nobles, with two separate patios. The house, now a bakery, is entered from No. 14, at the corner of the Camino del Sacro Monte. From this point the CAMINO DEL SACRO MONTE (Pl. D, 2, 1) ascends the cactus-grown slope. The numerous poor _Cuevas_, or cave-dwellings, are chiefly occupied by gipsies (gitanos). The path ends at the (25 min.) =Sacro Monte= (to the N.E. of Pl. D, E, 1), a Benedictine monastery of the 17th cent., now a divinity and law school. The view of the Alhambra across the Darro valley, of the town and the Vega, is one of the finest near Granada. Footpaths ascend from the Cuesta del Chapiz in 25 min., and from the Sacro Monte in ¾ hr., partly through deep gorges, to the chapel of =San Miguel el Alto= (Pl. D, 1), in the midst of aloes and cacti, where we enjoy a grand *View of the Alhambra, the town, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada. * * * * * The side-streets of the Carrera del Darro (p. 78) ascend to the N. to =Albaicín=, a poor suburb (p. 74). Not far from San Pedro y San Pablo (p. 78) is the small Gothic church of _San Juan de los Reyes_ (Pl. D, 2), an early 16th cent. edifice, whose tower was once a minaret. Above this church, and of like date, is the Gothic church of =San Nicolás= (Pl. D, 2), also built on Moorish foundations, and containing a fine timber ceiling. The famous *View of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada is a favourite subject with artists. The _Puerta de los Estandartes_ (Pl. D, 3), close by, is a relic of the Moorish _Castle Wall_, which runs down hence to the _Puerta Monáita_ (Pl. C, 3, 4). On the N. side the Cuesta de la Alacaba (Pl. D, C, 3, 4) descends to the Paseo del Triunfo (p. 75). On the way back to the Plaza Nueva we pass the Franciscan nunnery of _Santa Isabel la Real_ (Pl. D, 3), whose church has a tasteful late-Gothic portal by Enrique de Egas. c. The Alhambra. The =Alhambra= occupies the plateau, 795 by 195 yds., of the _Monte de la Assabica_ (p. 74), which rises abruptly from the Darro on the N. side, while on the S. it is separated by a gorge, the _Assabica_ of the Moors, from the lower spur of the _Monte Mauror_ (Pl. F, 3; p. 80). The axis of this range of hills is abruptly intersected by a second gorge, the _Cuesta del Rey Chico_ (p. 78), separating it on the E. side from the _Cerro del Sol_ (p. 87), at the foot of which lies the Generalife (p. 87). On the narrow W. point of the plateau stands the castle of _Alcazaba_. Beyond the small glacis on its E. side, and beyond the Plaza de los Aljibes, rises the _Alhambra_ itself, adjoining which, on the S.E., lies the _Alta Alhambra_, once quite a little town, where the retinue and servants of the court resided. The whole of these buildings, enclosed by a wall with numerous towers, were called by the Moors _Medînat al-Hamrâ_, literally ‘red city’, from the colour of its stone. The HISTORY of the Alhambra begins with Mohammed I. (1232–72), the first Nasride sovereign. While the Zirites resided on the Albaicín hill (comp. p. 74), Mohammed chose the Alhambra Hill as a site for his palace. The building was continued by his son _Mohammed II._ (1272–1302), and the Alhambra mosque (p. 86) was erected by _Mohammed III._ (1302–9). _Abu’l-Walîd Ismaîl_ (1309–25) was the first to erect a small palace outside of the Alcazaba, but this, with the exception of the Patio del Mexuar (p. 85), was taken down by _Yûsuf I._ (1333–54). Yûsuf began the stately Comares or myrtle-court palace, with its throne and audience room; to him are ascribed also the Comares tower (p. 83), the baths (p. 85), and the enclosing wall of the Alhambra Hill, with 23 additional towers. For the more sumptuous part of the pile _Mohammed V._ (1354–91) was chiefly responsible. To him was due the completion of the Myrtle Court, the erection of the Cuarto de Machuca, the summer abode of part of the family, and of the luxurious lion-court palace, the winter dwelling of the court and of the sovereign’s harem. The last Moorish king who made additions to the Alhambra was _Mohammed VII._ (1392–1408). The ‘Catholic Kings’, as Ferdinand and Isabella are styled, took a great interest in the Alhambra; they restored the decorations of the interior and strengthened the walls. Charles V. visited Granada in 1526, but with less satisfactory results. Although an enthusiastic admirer of Moorish art, he caused many outbuildings of the Alhambra to be removed to make way for his new palace (p. 86). At length, after 1718, when Philip V. discontinued the payment of money for the upkeep of the buildings, they rapidly fell into decay, and in 1812 the French, on their retreat, blew up several of the towers. Since 1830, however, the work of restoration, though sometimes in doubtful taste, has been resumed. It is hardly necessary to remind our readers of _Washington Irving’s_ delightful ‘Tales of the Alhambra’, which were partly written on the spot. A series of magnificent views of the Alhambra is given in the monumental work of _Jules Goury_ and _Owen Jones_, published at London in 1842. See also ‘The Alhambra’ by _A. F. Calvert_ (2nd ed., London, 1907). The HILL TRAMWAY (rack-and-pinion; p. 73) ascends from the Puerta de los Molinos (Pl. G, 3) on the S. slope of _Monte Mauror_, affording a splendid view of Granada, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada on the left, to the Cuesta de las Cruces (p. 81) in the Alhambra Park, a few minutes’ walk from the entrance of the Alhambra. The shortest ROAD to the Alhambra is the Calle de Gomeres (Pl. E, 4, 3), which ascends steeply from the Plaza Nueva to the S.E., between the hills of the Alcazaba and the Torres Bermejas, to the Puerta de las Granadas, the present chief entrance to the Alhambra Park. The =Puerta de las Granadas= (Pl. 1; E, 3), erected by _Pedro Machuca_ (p. 86), in the form of a triumphal arch, on the site of the Moorish _Bîb Alaujar_, occupied the centre of the wall connecting the Alcazaba with the TORRES BERMEJAS, the fortifications on the W. point of the Monte Mauror, which were built at the same period as the Alcazaba, but have been frequently restored. The *TORRES BERMEJAS (Pl. F, 3; ‘red towers’), now a military prison, deserve a visit, which may be best paid on the way back from the Alhambra or the Generalife. The path diverges from the Cuesta de las Cruces (p. 81) a few paces to the E. of the Puerta de las Granadas. Adm. on application at the guard-house. The extensive buildings, with their underground stabling, the cistern, and the casemates, convey an excellent idea of an ancient Moorish fortress. Stairs, rather steep, ascend to the platform (_azotea_) on the chief tower, where we obtain a most picturesque view. The *=Alhambra Park= (_Alameda de la Alhambra_; Pl. F, 3, 2), a ‘sacred grove’ unique of its kind, occupies the Assabica Valley (p. 79), reaching far up its slopes. It was planted at the end of the 18th cent. with elms exclusively, placed so close together as to form one dense roof of leafage, the home of countless nightingales. In March, when the sun shines through the leafless branches, the soil is temporarily covered with rich vegetation. From the Puerta de las Granadas three roads ascend to the Alhambra. To the right is the CUESTA DE LAS CRUCES, leading up the S. side of the park to the hill-tramway and the _Alhambra Hotels_ (p. 73); to the left is the rather fatiguing CUESTA EMPEDRADA, the old route to the castle, ending at the _Puerta Judiciaria_ (see below); between these is the easy MAIN ROAD, passing three fountains, and also leading to the hotels, but connected by side-paths with the Puerta Judiciaria. Carriages use this road and pass through the _Puerta del Carril_ (Pl. 6; F, 2). The entrance-tower, with the *=Puerta Judiciaria= (Pl. 5; E, F, 3), which, according to the inscription, was erected in the reign of Yûsuf I. in 1348, and was called by the Moors _Bîbush-Sheria_ (‘gate of justice’), deserves special attention. Like many of the Alhambra towers, this was really an independent building, the road between the gates of which was made tortuous for defensive purposes. About halfway up is the horseshoe-shaped _Outer Gate_, above which is seen a hand with outstretched fingers, a symbol often used in the East and in S. Europe to avert the evil eye. The _Inner Gateway_ still has its old Moorish doors studded with iron. A narrow passage ascends thence to the _House of Gómes Tortosa_ (on the right; Pl. 7, E, 3), the conservator of the Alhambra. Into the N. wing is built the *=Puerta del Vino=, probably once the main W. entrance of the _Alta Alhambra_ (p. 86). This gate seems to have been once connected by a wall with the Puerta de Hierro (p. 87), so as to shut off the Alcazaba, the palace, and the mosque from the Alhambra suburb. At the top of the hill we enter the broad PLAZA DE LOS ALJIBES (Pl. 8; E, 3), so named from the cistern (_al-jibb_) filled with water from the Darro. The level of the plaza was raised about 16 ft. when Charles V. built his palace, and it is now adorned with hedges of myrtle. On the E. side rise the Moorish palace (p. 82) and the handsome building erected by the emperor (p. 86); on our left is the E. front of the Alcazaba with two towers, the _Torre Quebrada_ and the _Torre del Homenaje_, 85 ft. in height (Pl. 10, 11; E, 3); to the N. we look down into the Darro Valley. The =Alcazaba= (Pl. E, 3; Arabic _Al-Kasaba_, ‘the citadel’) stands about 460 ft. above the Plaza Nueva (p. 78). Except on the E. the hill falls away abruptly on all sides, and so suddenly on the N.E., in consequence of a landslip, that the castle-wall seems endangered. The only entrance to the castle is now the _Puerta de la Alcazaba_ (Pl. 9; E, 3), at the S.W. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. The interior of the castle is now occupied by gardens. Of the original building scarcely anything remains except the ruined enclosing wall, with its huge towers and external terraces (_Adarves_). At several points the masonry resembles the concrete work of the Romans (p. 290). At the W. extremity of the Alcazaba stands the ‘watch-tower’, the *TORRE DE LA VELA (Pl. 13; E, 3), the _Ghafar_ of the Moors, on which the three ‘pendones’ of Ferdinand and Isabella were displayed for the first time on 2nd Jan., 1492. The Vela Tower commands a very extensive *VIEW (doorkeeper 30 c.). At our feet lies the entire city; to the left, beyond the Alhambra Park, rise the Torres Bermejas; to the right, beyond the Darro, is the Albaicín; in front of us extends the almost circular green Vega, enclosed by brown and sun-scorched ranges of hills; to the S.E. towers the Sierra Nevada; to the S. and S.W. rise the Sierra de Almijara, Sierra Tejea, and Sierra de Alhama; to the W. are Santa Fe (p. 73) and the hills of Loja (p. 72); then, to the N.W., are the Sierra de Parapanda (p. 73), Sierra de Elvira, and other hills. Lastly, to the E., we see the Moorish Alhambra and the palace of Charles V., the church of Santa María (p. 86), the Generalife (p. 87), and the Silla del Moro (p. 88). The *JARDÍN DE LOS ADARVES (Pl. 15; E, 3), the S. terrace, overgrown with venerable ivy and vines, is entered by a small door (recognized by the iron scallop-shells on it) to the left of the Alcazaba gate. The view is most picturesque, especially towards evening. * * * * * The Moorish **=Alhambra Palace= (adm., see p. 74), commonly known as the _Casa Real_, adjoins the N.E. angle of the Plaza de los Aljibes. Like other Moorish secular buildings it is externally insignificant, and it is quite eclipsed by the huge palace of Charles V. (p. 86). Like the ancient Greek and Roman dwelling-houses it is entirely closed on the outside, while all the rooms open on an internal court as a common centre. When the house was enlarged a new court had to be added, and so too the kings of Granada built palace after palace, each with its own court and separate entrance. On these buildings the highest efforts of Moorish art have been expended. Their structural value is small; the materials, chiefly wood and plaster, lack solidity, being often used for effect only; while architectural rules are constantly violated. But the ingenious disposition of the rooms and their sumptuous ornamentation, whose fairy-like effect is too often marred by decay or by faulty restoration, are unrivalled. The slender marble columns by which the light walls are supported recall the tent-poles of the nomads, while the mural decoration with its arabesques and flourishes reminds one of an Oriental carpet. Very curious too is the ‘stalactite’ vaulting, formed by minute and countless projections of the walls, ranged one above the other without visible support. The Semitic abhorrence of any representation of living beings accounts for the absence of sculpture, but some food for reflection was afforded by the inscriptions with which all the wall-spaces are framed, partly in the venerable Cufic characters (p. 150), partly in Andalusian flowing letters, extolling Allah and the reigning family. The present low-lying ENTRANCE (_Entrada Moderna_), adjacent to the emperor’s palace, leads into the— *=Myrtle Court= (_Patio de la Alberca_ or _de los Arrayanes_), which belongs to the Comares palace (p. 80), and derives its name from the myrtle-hedges (_mesas de arrayanes_) around its pond (_alberca_). The court is 121 ft. long and 75 ft. in breadth. At its N.E. end rises the Comares tower (see below); to the S.W. it is overlooked by Charles V.’s palace, which stands about 16 ft. higher. At each end of the court is a beautiful arcade, borne by six slender marble columns and paved with marble; that at the S.W. end, with its upper gallery, open at the top, deserves special admiration. At the N.E. end the arcades terminate in curious niches (Arabic _ar-hanîya_) with stalactite vaulting, once coloured blue. The first door on the N.W. side of the court leads into the custodian’s rooms, and the next but one into the _Patio del Mexuar_ (p. 85); opposite the latter door, from the S.E. wall of the court, stairs (generally closed) descend to the _Baths_ (p. 85). Opposite the entrance of the palace is a door leading into the _Sala de los Mocárabes_ (p. 84) and the _Lions’ Court_ (p. 81). The stairs in the S.W. angle of the court lead into the interior of Charles V.’s palace (p. 86). An ornate horseshoe arch at the N.E. end of the court gives access to the ante-room of the Comares Tower, the =Sala de la Barca=, whose barrel-vaulting was destroyed by a fire in 1899. By the entrance are two niches for water-vessels. The wall of the tower is pierced with a superb archway, right and left of which are two other fine niches. The ruinous =Torre de Comares=, 148 ft. in height, built, it is said, by workmen from Comares, and crowned, with modern pinnacles, contains the— **=Hall of the Ambassadors= (_Sala de los Embajadores_), a room in two stories, 36 ft. square and 59 ft. high, once the royal reception room. The last meeting of the Moors under Boabdil, before the capitulation of Granada, was held here in 1491. Inscriptions record that Yûsuf I. was the builder. The larch-wood dome of the hall has been compared to the facetted surface of a cut diamond. The immense thickness of the walls is apparent from the depth of the window-niches, each of which affords a different view. The central windows (so-called _Ajimez_, Arabic _khamsîya_) are each divided into two by a slender column. This hall is one of the most richly decorated in the Alhambra. From the first window-niche on the right in the S.E. wall a passage leads to the _Peinador de la Reina_ (p. 86) and to the lower floor. We return to the Myrtle Court and (as indicated above) pass through the Sala de los Mocárabes into the— **=Court of the Lions= (_Patio de Los Leones_), which owes its name to the _Fuente de los Leones_, a famous fountain borne by twelve lions. The building was begun by Mohammed V. in 1377. The court, 92 by 52 ft., is bordered all round with a colonnade, from which at each end protrudes a superb domed pavilion. The columns are alternately single and grouped. The tasteful elegance of this court, originally shaded by six orange-trees, contrasts strikingly with the showy pomp of the Myrtle Court. The fretwork decoration in stucco looks like carved ivory. Besides the lion-fountain, the court contains, at the ends of the arcade, eight flat marble fountain-basins. The fountains play on a few festival-days only. The Court of the Lions, whose upper floor contained the women’s apartments, restored in 1907, is adjoined by handsome rooms all round. On the N.W. side is the present ante-room of the court, called the— =Sala de los Mocárabes=, 72 ft. long, but only 13 ft. wide. The handsome barrel-vaulting in the Renaissance style was added after an explosion of gunpowder in 1614, but remains of the old dome and mural decoration have been brought to light. The *=Hall of the Abencerrages=, to the S.W. of the Lions’ Court, derives its name from a noble family (p. 75), whose leading members, as the story goes, were beheaded at the fountain in the centre of this hall on account of an intrigue of Hamet, their chief, with king Boabdil’s wife. We note specially the magnificent door of entrance, and the curious way in which it is fitted to the doorposts. The central part of the hall rises in three stories, upon which open two lower alcoves with beautiful toothed arches and coffered ceilings. Over the gallery of the second story eight stalactite pendentives form the transition to the sixteen-sided third story, whose windows diffuse a subdued light. Lastly, the hall is roofed with massive stalactite vaulting. Adjoining the Hall of the Abencerrages, on the left and right, are the _Patinillo_ and the _Aljibe_ or cistern. The *=Sala de la Justicia= (also called _Sala del Tribunal_ or _de los Reyes_), on the S.E. side of the Court of the Lions, is a hall in seven sections, with three arched entrances from the court, each divided by two columns. Between these open sections, which are roofed with lofty domes lighted from above, are two lower chambers. Adjoining the ends and the E. side are side-rooms or alcoves, some of them dark. The whole of this hall, with its honeycomb vaulting and stalactite arches, presents the appearance of some fantastic grotto. The three larger side-rooms have ceiling-paintings of the early 15th century. The central picture, which has given rise to the different names of the hall (‘hall of justice’, ‘hall of the kings’, etc.), probably represents the first ten kings of Granada, beginning with Mohammed I., or, according to others, a meeting of council, or a court of justice. The paintings in the two other alcoves depict hunting and jousting scenes. In the central alcove is a Moorish _Trough_ (pila) of 1306, with curious reliefs of lions devouring stags, of eagles, etc.—The alabaster _Tombstones_ in the alcove at the S.W. end of the hall are from the _Rauda_, the dilapidated royal vault of the Alhambra. Opposite the Hall of the Abencerrages we ascend from the N.E. side of the Court of the Lions by a narrow passage (_pasadizo_) to the— **=Sala de las Dos Hermanas= (_Hall of the Two Sisters_), which lies in the same axis as the Sala de los Ajimeces and Mirador de Daraxa, two other rooms situated at a higher level. This suite of rooms seems to have formed the winter residence of the ruler’s harem. The chief of these, whose ornamentation is perhaps the most exquisite in the Alhambra, has its name from the two marble slabs in the pavement. In particular we admire the beautiful doors, the mural decoration in stucco, and above all the honeycomb vaulting, the largest of all Arab roofs of the kind. In a corner of the hall stands the *_Alhambra Vase_ (‘el jarro de la Alhambra’), 4 ft. 5 in. in height, dating from 1320, and adorned with enamel, figures of animals (gazelles?), etc. We next pass through the _Sala de los Ajimeces_, with its ajimeces (p. 83) and fine vaulting (a closed passage on the left leads hence to the Peinador de la Reina and the Patio de la Reja, p. 86), to the— *=Mirador de Daraxa= (‘entrance-room’). This charming bay has three windows, reaching nearly to the ground and overlooking the Patio de Daraxa (p. 86). We may now return through the Court of the Lions to the Myrtle Court, and from the N.W. side (as indicated at p. 83) of the latter descend through the _Zaguán_ or forecourt to the =Patio del Mexuar=, lying 13 ft. lower. This is the oldest part of the Alhambra. On the N.E. side of the court is a pleasing _Atrium_, with columns and a horseshoe arch of 1522. The adjacent _Cuarto Dorado_ also has Mudejar decoration of the time of Charles V. The =Mexuar= (Arabic _meshwâr_, council-chamber), now the _Capilla_, was fitted up as such in 1537–44, but not used as the palace chapel till 1629. During the Moorish period it perhaps served as an audience chamber or law-court, and the gallery as a meeting-place for the council of state.—A modern door leads into the _Mosala_, the Moorish chapel built by Mohammed V., which belonged to the old _Cuarto de Machuca_ (p. 80), now almost entirely occupied by gardens. Nearly opposite the Christian Chapel in the Mexuar Court is the underground _Viaduct_ leading to the Baths (right) and to the Patio de la Reja. The extensive subterranean *=Baths= (_Baños_), to the N.E. of the Myrtle Court, in the style of those of ancient Rome (comp. p. 290), date from the time of Yûsuf I. The first room, now freely restored, resembling an Apodyterium, is the _Sala de las Camas_ or _de los Divanes_, with two niches for couches, and is remarkable for its graceful superstructure. The gallery was destined for the singing girls. The chief bath-chamber (_cuartos y sudoríficos_) corresponds to the Tepidarium, and marble baths still exist. The heating apparatus (_calorífero_) has been destroyed. From the Sala de las Camas we enter the *=Patio de Daraxa= (p. 85), planted with cypresses, formerly the inner garden of the palace, but altered by Charles V. Only the upper basin of the fountain is Moorish. The rooms on the upper floor (_Aposentos de Carlos Quinto_) contain the Alhambra archives. The small _Patio de la Reja_, with its fountain and four cypresses, so called from its window-gratings, dates only from 1654–55.—The stairs at the N.E. corner lead (left) to the Hall of the Ambassadors (p. 83), and (right) to a new corridor which brings us to the— *=Peinador de la Reina= (the ‘Queen’s Dressing-room’), on the upper floor of the _Torre del Peinador_ erected by Yûsuf I. The ‘grotesque’ paintings, in the style of the Vatican logge, and the scenes from Charles V.’s expedition to Tunis (p. 323) are by _Julio de Aquilés_ and _Alex. Mayner_. * * * * * The *=Palace of Charles V.= (Pl. 17, E, 2; entrance, see p. 83) is a massive square pile of 207 ft. each way and 57 ft. in height, with a heavy rustica groundfloor and an upper story of the Ionic order, terminating in a Doric cornice. The building was designed by _Pedro Machuca_ in the Italian high-Renaissance style, in 1526, and its cost was defrayed out of the tribute paid by the Moors. The only completed parts are the façades, the superb circular colonnaded court, of the Doric order below and the Ionic above, and the main staircase, which was not finished till 1635. The richly sculptured W. and S. portals, executed by many different masters, are specially attractive. Passing round the S. side of the palace of Charles V., we cross the Plaza de los Alămos to the church of _Santa María_ (Pl. 18; E, F, 2), which stands on the site of the _Mezquita Real_ or Alhambra mosque. The buildings of the =Alta Alhambra= (p. 79) also present several features of interest. To the N. of Santa María we cross the Alameda, pass (on the left) the ruins of the Rauda (p. 85) and the outside of the Court of the Lions, and then descend to the left to the _Torre de las Damas_ (Pl. 20; E, 2), a fortified tower of the time of Yûsuf I., restored in 1907–8, with a sumptuous interior. Fine view from the Mirador (p. 87).—A few paces to the E. lies the =Carmen de Arratía=, a private house with a charming garden (above the gate is the inscription ‘Mezquita árabe de la Alhambra’). The house contains a _Moorish Chapel_, also dating from the time of Yûsuf I., with an elegant mihrâb or prayer-niche. Farther on in the same direction we come to the _Torre de los Picos_ (Pl. 21; F, 2) and cross a bastion (_baluarte_) to the =Puerta de Hierro= (Pl. 22; F, 2), restored by the ‘Catholic kings’, which forms the entrance to the Alhambra from the Cuesta del Rey Chico (p. 78). On the margin of the plateau above this road are four towers, the two finest of which, time permitting, we may visit under the guidance of the custodian, who lives in the Torre de la Pólvora. These are the =Torre de la Cautiva= (Pl. 23; F, 2), the chief room in which vies with the sumptuous halls of the Alhambra palace itself, and the _Torre de las Infantas_ (Pl. 24; F, 2), an excellent point of view. On the S.W. margin of the plateau, beyond the _Torre del Agua_ (Pl. 25; F, 2), where towards evening we have a splendid view of the town, the Vega, and the Sierra Nevada, is a bastion above which rises the _Puerta de los Siete Suelos_ (Pl. 26; F, 2). By this gate Boabdil, the last of the Moorish kings (p. 75), made his final exit from the Alhambra. d. The Generalife. At the foot of the _Cerro del Sol_, to the E. of the Alhambra, about 160 ft. above the Alhambra Hill, rises the *=Palacio de Generalife= (Pl. E, F, 1), once the famous summer residence of the Moorish kings, and now owned by the Marquesa de Campotéjar (p. 77). The name is a corruption of the Arabic _Jennat al-Arîf_, ‘garden of Arîf’, the original owner. According to the inscription it was redecorated by order of Abu’l-Walîd Ismaîl in 1319, but in 1494 it was altered and enlarged by Queen Isabella. The interior is very dilapidated; the ornamentation, which is about half-a-century earlier than that of the chief apartments in the Alhambra, is mostly whitewashed. We ascend by the Camino del Cementerio, a continuation of the three Alhambra Park routes (p. 81), and by the Cuesta del Rey Chico (p. 78), and ring at the _Outer Gate_ (Pl. 27, F, 2; adm., see p. 74; fee to the porter, also to the gardener): A cypress-avenue leads thence to the N. to the _Entrance_ (Pl. 28; F, 1). The picturesque COURT is still, as in Moorish times, planted with myrtle-hedges and orange-trees and intersected by a water-conduit. The buildings on the E. side date from the 16th cent.; along the W. side runs a _Colonnade_ with pointed arches, the central door of which opens on a _Mirador_ (Arabic _manzar_, _i.e._ belvedere), which is now a chapel. On the N. side we pass through a five-arched _Gallery_, and then through a three-arched _Portal_ into a quadrangular HALL with two alcoves. Beyond this is a square room with a balcony commanding a splendid view of the Darro Valley. The modern side-rooms are uninteresting. The *PARK, to the E. of the main building and above it, was laid out in Moorish times. We first enter the _Patio de los Cipreses_, with a gallery built in 1584–6, and shaded with venerable cypresses. A Moorish flight of steps, with grooves for water on the balustrades, ascends to a _Mirador_ (Pl. 29; F, 1), where we enjoy a glorious *View of Granada, the Alhambra, and the valley of the Darro. A good survey of the Alhambra and of the whole Sierra Nevada is obtained from the _Silla del Moro_ (Pl. F, 1), a spur of the Cerro del Sol. It is reached in 12 min. from the Cementerio road (p. 87) by a path diverging halfway between the gate of the Generalife and the cemetery, and then crossing a gorge. 11. From Granada viâ Bobadilla to Málaga. 119½ M. RAILWAY in 6–6¼ hrs. (fares 28 p. 90, 22 p. 65, 15 p. 95 c.); railway restaurant at Bobadilla only (change carr.); views thus far on the left, afterwards on the right. From Granada to (76 M.) _Bobadilla_, see pp. 73, 72. The train then continues to follow the _Guadalhorce Valley_. At (84½ M.) _Gobantes_ begins the *=Hoyo de Chorro=, a ravine, inaccessible before the railway was made, where the Guadalhorce forces its passage through the limestone slate rock of the coast-hills. The train is carried along the left bank by means of tunnels and of high bridges crossing lateral gorges. Little, however, of the grand rocky landscape, or of the interesting construction of the line, is seen from the train on its rapid descent. Beyond (89 M.) _Chorro_ are seen the first oranges, lemons, palms, and cypresses. On the short run to Málaga we are carried with more startling suddenness than anywhere else in Europe into the midst of an almost tropical vegetation, and finally to the coast-region of sugar-cane, cotton, and bananas (comp. p. 89). 96 M. =Alora= (328 ft.; pop. 10,300), the ancient _Iluro_, lies to the right at the foot of the _Sierra del Hacho_. The ‘huertas’, or garden-like fields, are watered by numerous runlets from the Guadalhorce. Beyond the last tunnel the valley expands. 101½ M. _Pizarra_. To the S. rises the _Sierra de Mijas_. 109 M. _Cártama_. The village, the Roman _Cartima_, lies 2½ M. to the S.W., on the right bank of the Guadalhorce, which was once navigable up to this point. The loftily situated castle is Moorish. 112½ M. _Campanillas_ lies on the stream of that name, which waters the hilly wine-country of _Axarquía_ to the N., and falls into the Guadalhorce. The valley broadens down into the plain, the _Hoya de Málaga_ (p. 89). We now leave the Guadalhorce, which turns to the S.E.; to the S. we sight the Mediterranean. 119½ M. =Málaga.=—ARRIVAL. At the RAILWAY STATION (_Estación del Ferrocarril_; Pl. A, 5) we find hotel-omnibuses, cabs (see p. 89), and an ‘omnibus general’ (¼ p.), which last goes to the _Despacho Central_, or town-office of the railway, by the so-called Puerta del Mar (Calle de Carvajal; Pl. C, 4).—Travellers arriving by STEAMER pay for landing ½ p. for each person and ½ p. for each trunk; or a bargain may be made to convey luggage to the custom-house (Aduana) and to the hotel for 1–2 p.—The coasting steamers only are berthed at the quay. [Illustration: MÁLAGA] HOTELS (comp. p. 51). *_Regina Hotel_ (Pl. a; C, 4), on the N. side of the Alameda, pens. 12–20 p.—*_Hot. Colón_ (Pl. d; C, 3), Plaza de la Constitución; _Hot. Victoria_ (Pl. b; C, 4), pens. 6–12 p., _Hot. Niza_ (Pl. c; C, 3), _Hot. Inglés_ (Pl. e; C, 3), pens. 7 p., _Hot. Alhambra_ (Pl. f; C, 3), pens, from 7 fr., good, all in the Calle del Marqués de Larios; _Hacienda de Giró_ (Engl. landlady, Mrs. Cooper), above La Caleta, with garden, pens. 8–15 p. CAFÉS. _Imperial_, _Inglés_, and _La Vinícola_, all in the Calle del Marqués de Larios.—BEER. _Gambrinus_, same street; _Cervecería de Munich_, Plaza de la Constitución; _Maier_, Pasaje de Heredia, N. side of same plaza. CABS. Within the town, and to the E. to Hot. Hernán Cortés (p. 92): cab with two seats, per drive 1, per hr. 2 p., at night 2 and 2½ p.; with four seats, per drive 1½, per hr. 2½, at night per drive or hour 3 p. Bargain advisable, also as to luggage.—Outside the town according to bargain: to _Palo_ (p. 92) about 5, to _San José_ and _La Concepción_ (p. 92) 8–9 p.—On certain festivals fares are raised. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (_Correos y Telégrafos_; Pl. D, 3), Calle del Cister. BANKS. _Banco Hispano-Americano_, Calle del Marqués de Larios; _Hijos de Alvárez Fonseca_, Calle Nueva; _Rein & Co._, Alameda de Carlos Haes 4. CONSULS. British, _P. Staniforth_; vice-consul, _E. R. Thornton_.—United States, _E. J. Norton_; vice-consul, _T. R. Geary_.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _Chas. Farguharson_, Cortina del Muelle 69. ENGLISH CHURCH in the Protestant Cemetery (Pl. F, 3). STEAMBOAT LINES. _Hall Line_ (agent, Ign. Morales Hurtado, Alameda de Colón 13), weekly to Cadiz, Lisbon, and London; _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (office, Viuda de Ant. Duarte), thrice monthly to Cadiz; _Transports Maritimes_ (P. G. Chaix, Calle de Josefa de Ugarte Barrientos 26), on 20th of each month to Gibraltar, Madeira, etc. (comp. also p. 120 and R. 3); _Navigation Mixte_ (P. G. Chaix), from Tangier viâ Málaga and Melilla to Oran (and Marseilles), see p. 123; also _Sloman’s Line_ and others. ONE DAY. Forenoon: _Alameda_, _Park_ (p. 90), _Harbour_ (p. 90), _Cathedral_ (p. 91), and view from its tower or from the _Gibralfaro_ (p. 92); afternoon: _Protestant Cemetery_, _Caleta_, and _Palo_ (p. 92). _Málaga_, the capital of a province and seat of a bishop, one of the oldest and most famous of Mediterranean ports, with 111,900 inhab., lies picturesquely on the last spurs of a circus of hills, 47 M. long, the _Sierra Tejea_, _S. de Alhama_, _S. de Abdalajis_, and _S. de Mijas_, which enclose the broad _Bahía de Málaga_. The inner part of this bay is bounded on the E. by the _Punta de los Cántales_, and on the W. by the _Torre de Pimentel_, near Torremolinos; between these rises the _Gibralfaro_, the castle-hill of Málaga, abutting on the harbour. The coast-line is gradually being extended seawards by the alluvial deposits of the _Guadalmedina_ (Arabic ‘town-river’), whose bed, generally dry (Rambla), separates the old town from the W. suburbs. To the W. stretches the wonderfully fertile _Vega_ or _Hoya de Málaga_, where even the sugar-cane, cotton, sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batatas), and cherimolias (Anona cherimolia) are cultivated. Most famous among the products of this luxuriant region are the raisins (pasas) and the wines of Málaga, which are yielded by the Axarquía (p. 88), to the N.W., and by the Montes de Málaga and the hill of Colmenar, to the N.E., and which are chiefly exported by British and German firms. In the W. suburbs are several sugar, cotton, and iron factories, a rare phenomenon in Andalusia. To the E. are the villa-suburbs, the strangers’ quarter. Málaga is much resorted to as a winter residence, chiefly by British and Spanish visitors, on account of the mildness of its climate, the mean temperature of the three winter months being 55° Fahr. The HISTORY of Málaga, the _Malaca_ of antiquity, begins with the Phœnicians (p. 50), who gave the town its name. Down to the time of Posidonius, the contemporary of Pompey and Cicero, it retained its Punic character (Strabo III, 4), differing therein from the towns of Iberian or of Greek origin. The Syrian and other Asiatic merchants who settled here formed distinct guilds. Although the port was of some importance in ancient times, it now contains no memorials of either the Phœnician (except a few coins) or of the Roman period. In 571 _Leovigild_, the Visigoth (p. 69), wrested the town from the Byzantines. In 711 it was captured by the Moors, who regarded it as an earthly paradise, and whose Arabic writers vie with each other in extolling it. After 1246, along with Almería, it became one of the chief ports of the kingdom of Granada, but its mediæval glory ended with its conquest by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1487. For centuries Málaga remained utterly insignificant; but of late, in spite of the growing competition of Seville and Almería, its trade has improved considerably. From the station we follow the tramway line and cross the _Puente de Tetuán_ (Pl. B, 4) to the PASEO DE LA ALAMEDA (Pl. B, C, 4), a promenade ¼ M. long and 138 ft. wide, planted with planes. At its W. end it is adorned with a marble _Fountain_ executed in Genoa in 1560, and at the E. end with a statue of the _Marqués de Larios_. Adjoining this Paseo on the E. is the PLAZA DE ALFONSO SUÁREZ DE FIGUEROA (Pl. C, 4), with a tasteful fountain, which leads to the new— *=Park= (_Parque_ or _Jardines de Enrique Crooke Larios_; Pl. C-E, 4, 3), planted with six rows of planes and palms and with fine flower-beds. View of the harbour, part of the cathedral, the Alcazaba, and the Gibralfaro.—The _Paseo de Heredia_ (Pl. C, 5, 4) also, to the W. of the harbour, is planted with planes and palms. The =Harbour= (_Puerto_; Pl. C, D, 4, 5) has been much improved since 1881. The E. pier, with the _Lighthouse_ (Faro; Pl. D, 5), was already built in 1588. On the sand-hills behind the pier a poor suburb has sprung up, called the _Barrio de Malagueta_ (Pl. E, F, 4, 3). On its N. side are the _Plaza de Toros_ (Bull Ring; Pl. E, 3) and the _Hospital Noble_, erected for seamen by Dr. Noble, an English physician.—To the Caleta, see p. 92. The _Mercado_ (market-hall; Pl. B, C, 4), to the N. of the Alameda, deserves an early morning visit; the fish-stalls also are worth seeing. The horseshoe arch of the chief portal, with the motto of the Nasride dynasty (p. 74), is a relic of the Moorish wharf, the _Atarazana_ (Arabic Dâr as-San῾a, ‘arsenal’ or ‘place of work’). From the Alameda issues the CALLE DEL MARQUÉS DE LARIOS (Pl. C, 4, 3), the chief business street of Málaga (many cafés) and also a favourite resort of the fashionable and leisured classes. Another important commercial thoroughfare, to the N.E. of the Plaza de la Constitución, is the CALLE DE GRANADA (Pl. C, D, 3), officially called _Calle de Salvador Solier_, from which the Calle de Molina Larios leads to the cathedral. The *=Cathedral= (Pl. C, D, 3; open 7–11 and 3 to 4.30, in summer 4 to 5.30), a massive edifice, marred, however, by the buildings on the E. side, occupies the site of a Moorish mosque, which was converted in 1487 into the Gothic _Church of the Incarnation_ (Encarnación). The present church, which is built entirely of white limestone, was probably planned by _Diego de Siloe_ (p. 76) in 1538. The building progressed slowly, but in 1554 it already showed the arms of Philip II. of Spain and Queen Mary of England. In 1680 it was partly destroyed by an earthquake, but in 1719 the work was resumed with greater energy. It has, however, never been completed. The chief W. façade, approached by a fine flight of marble steps and flanked with two projecting towers, rises opposite the Plaza del Obispo in two stories, articulated with Corinthian columns. Corresponding with the three portals are the round-arched windows of the second story. The N. tower, 280 ft. high, has a third story with Corinthian columns, surmounted by an octagon with a dome and lantern. The S. tower, like the central part of the façade, shows only the beginnings of a third story. The portals of the transept also are flanked with towers. The INTERIOR, with its nave and aisles and two rows of chapels, measures 377 by 246 ft. and is 131 ft. in height. The transept and the ambulatory are grandly proportioned. The round arches of the ornate vaulting are borne by two sets of pillars, one above the other, the lower being enriched with Corinthian pilasters. In the nave is the CHOIR, with its admirable stalls (16–17th cent.). The carved *Statues of saints and other figures are by _Pedro de Mena_ (d. 1693). In the RIGHT AISLE is the Capilla del Rosario (the 3rd), which contains a Madonna of the Rosary with six saints, by _Alonso Cano_.—In the 1st chapel of the AMBULATORY, the Capilla de los Reyes, are kneeling statues of the ‘Catholic kings’ (p. 75) and an image of the Virgin which they always carried with them on their crusades. The CAPILLA MAYOR, designed by _Al. Cano_, is formed by a semicircle of light detached pillars. The handsome altar, in the form of a domed temple with four façades, is modern. The N. TOWER (entered from outside; over 200 steps; custodian 30–40 c.) commands a strikingly picturesque *View. The _Sagrario_, the parish church to the N.W. of the cathedral, has a rich Gothic N. portal from the older cathedral. The Calle de San Agustín, passing the _Ayuntamiento_ (Pl. D, 3), leads back to the Calle de Granada (p. 90). At the N.E. end of the latter, on the right, near the Plaza de Riego (Pl. D, 2, 3), rises the church of _Santiago el Mayor_ (Pl. D, 3), built on the site of a mosque in 1490, with a tower whose lower part is still Moorish. If the traveller is undeterred by dirty streets and begging children, he may ascend from the Plaza de Riego to the S.E. viâ the Calle del Mundo Nuevo to the saddle of the _Coracha_ and the Moorish castle of =Alcazaba= (Pl. D, 3; p. 81), the scanty ruins of which are chiefly inhabited by gipsies. This hill-town, once connected with the Gibralfaro by double walls, probably stands on the site of the earliest Phœnician settlement. The *=Gibralfaro= (Pl. E, 2, 3; 558 ft.; from _jebel_, mountain, and _pharos_, lighthouse), whose original fortifications date back to the 13th cent., affords an extensive view, ranging to the S., in very clear weather, as far as the Monte Melila in Africa (p. 124). The ascent from the Coracha (p. 91) is fairly easy. Leave to see the castle must be obtained beforehand from the commandant, at the Gobierno Militar, Alameda de Colón 2. The same views may be obtained by walking round the old enclosing walls, but this is fatiguing. At the foot of the Gibralfaro runs the Avenida de Pries (Pl. F, 3), leading to the villa-quarter of =Caleta= (Pl. F, G, 3), where are several pensions and many superb gardens. (Electric tramway from the Paseo de Alameda to Palo; also steam-tramway from the harbour to Vélez-Málaga.) Immediately on the left is the pretty Protestant cemetery, or =Cementerio Inglés=, founded in 1830 by the British consul W. Mark (usually open). The little _English Church_ here was built in 1891. At the E. end of Caleta, beyond the _Hot.-Restaurant Hernán Cortés_ (Pl. k; G, 3), roads diverge to the left for the _Limonar Valley_ (Pl. G, 2, 1), where lie the residential suburbs of _Limonar_, _Higueral_, and _Miramar_.—We may follow the highroad, which affords charming views, but is generally very dusty, to the fishing-village of _Palo_, 2 M. beyond the Hot. Hernán Cortés. A delightful excursion may be taken to the beautiful park of the _Hacienda de San José_, 2½ M. to the N. of Málaga, and to the villa of *=La Concepción=, a little beyond it. The latter contains an elegant modern temple with Roman antiquities. The road (carr., see p. 89) leads from the Plaza de Capuchinos up the Guadalmedina. From the Cementerio de San Miguel (comp. Pl. D, 1; tramway) walkers may wander along the water-conduit, halfway up the slope (40 min.), and then descend the avenue of plane-trees to the left to the highroad. IV. MOROCCO. Route Page Geographical and Historical Sketch. Practical Hints 93 12. Tangier 98 13. From Tangier to Tetuán (Ceuta) 102 14. From Tangier to Mogador by Sea 104 _Morocco_, a region 270,000 sq. M. in area, extends from the Straits of Gibraltar on the N. to the Sahara on the S., and is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the W. and by the French colony of Algiers on the E. It is called by the Arabs _El-Gharb_ or _Maghreb el-Aksâ_ (‘the extreme West-land’), being the westmost part of the ancient Barbary (Arabic _Jezirat el-Maghreb_, ‘island of the West’), the long coast-land of N. Africa between the Libyan desert and the ocean. The backbone of this region, whose population is estimated at from six to eight millions, is formed by the _Morocco Atlas_, the highest mountains in N. Africa, a folded rock-formation, mostly of early origin. The range consists of three main chains: the barren _Great Atlas_, an enormous wall of rock culminating in the _Tamyurt_ and _Likumpt_ (about 14,800 ft.); then the _Lesser Atlas_ to the N., rising in the territory of the Beni Waraïn tribe to over 13,000 ft., and separated from the Great Atlas by the _Wâd el-Abid_ and the _Mulûya_; and lastly the _Anti-Atlas_ and _Jebel Sarro_ or _Saghro_, parallel with the Great Atlas, and about 6500 ft. in height. A low range of hills, called the _Jebel Bani_, between the Anti-Atlas and the river _Draa_, forms the boundary between Morocco and the Sahara. On the N.W. side of these mountains, between them and the ocean, lies an extensive intermediate tableland called the _Tell_, steppe-like in character, with a girdle of oases, whence protrude the _Jebilet_, the _Jebel el-Hadid_, the _Jebel Akhdar_ or _Lakhdar_, and several smaller isolated heights, which are evidently relics of an ancient range of mountains. The seaboard itself consists of the plain between the rivers _Tensift_ and Sebu (rendered extremely fertile by its mantle of black soil, _Tuaress_ or _Tîrs_), and of the marshy flats on the lower course of the _Sebu_ (ancient _Subur_), the most copious stream in Barbary. These occupy a district once penetrated by the sea, and geologically resembling the basin of the Guadalquivir (p. 49). The entire Mediterranean coast, on the other hand, from the Straits of Gibraltar to the Mulûya valley (p. 124), is bordered by the _Rîf Mts._ (p. 104), a range culminating in the _Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam_ (p. 102; 5742 ft.) and the _Jebel Tiziren_ (ca. 8200 ft.), these being folded mountains of recent formation, clothed with extensive forests of Atlas cedar (p. 210) and arar (Callitris quadrivalvis L.). The Rîf Mts. and the Atlas are sharply separated by a deep depression watered by the Sebu and its tributary the _Innaûen_ on the W., and by the _Msûn_, an affluent of the Mulûya, on the E., a valley which once formed the most important route between Morocco and Algeria. Both of these mountain-ranges are said to contain great mineral wealth (iron, copper, zinc, silver, gold, etc.), but as yet it has only been tapped to a small extent by the natives, chiefly in the _Sûs_, the region between the Great and the Anti-Atlas, and near _Ujda_ (p. 197). The Great and the Lesser Atlas, whose chief peaks are covered with perpetual snow, afford also an abundant supply of water, which is utilized for irrigation, though as yet very inadequately, by means of open cuttings (_sakhiâ_) or underground conduits (_foggâra_ or _khattâra_). The rainfall in Morocco diminishes as we proceed southwards from the Straits of Gibraltar; at Tangier it is 32 in.; at Mogador, 16 in.; while in the interior (as at Marakesh, 11 in.), and particularly on the S. margin of the Great Atlas, it becomes very insignificant. In the interior the climate may be described as continental (as at Marakesh, where the mean temperature of January is 51½° Fahr., and that of July 84½°), while that of the S. part of the ocean seaboard, thanks to the prevalent N.W. winds and the N. to S. ocean currents, vies with that of Madeira in mildness and equableness. Thus at Rabât the mean of January is 55°, that of August 75°; at Mogador 61° and 72°, respectively. The variations are greater near the Straits (as at Tangier, 50° and 75°) and particularly on the Rîf seaboard. Morocco is inhabited chiefly by _Berbers_, the white Hamitic indigenous race of N. Africa; of these the _Amâziges_ live in the N.W., the _Berâbs_ in the Atlas, and the _Shilluh_ or _Shluh_ on the ocean coast. Some of them retain their ancient languages (_Tamâzirt_, or _Shelha_, and _Berbri_), which are akin to early Egyptian, but many, especially the dwellers in the low country, have spoken Arabic since the middle ages. Pure _Arab Tribes_, mostly survivors of the Beni Hilal and Beni Soleïm immigrants (p. 323), are chiefly met with in the Sebu plain and in the S.W. steppe-region. Many of the dwellers in the towns are _Moors_ (Andalûsi) of Spanish origin, while numerous _Jews_ are settled, usually in a walled ghetto (_Mellah_), under the direct protection of the sultan. _Negroes_, too, most of whom were originally slaves, imported from the Sudan by way of the Tafilet, abound in the southern districts of Morocco. The S.W. provinces of Sûs, Wâd Draa, and Wâd Nûn, which are interesting on account of their primæval African flora (p. 30), are mostly inhabited by the despised _Harrâtin_ (sing. _Hartâni_), the hybrid offspring of negroes and Berbers, or, according to others, descendants of the indigenous population of N. Africa. Owing to the inaccessibility of its mountains and the natives’ passionate love of independence, coupled with their hatred of foreigners, Morocco has ever been one of the least explored regions. The settlements of the Phœnicians and Carthaginians were limited to a few places on the coast, such as _Rusaddir_ (Melilla?) and _Ceuta_, and also, beyond the pillars of Hercules (p. 54), _Tingis_ (?), _Zilis_ (Arzila), _Lixus_ (p. 105), and _Sala_ (Salee). The Romans also seem to have shunned the Rîf region, and scarcely ever to have penetrated into the interior beyond Meknes (Mequinez) in the _Zerhun Mts._ From the time of Emp. Claudius (42 A. D.) Morocco, with Tingis as its capital, formed the _Provincia Mauretania Tingitana_ (comp. p. 124); and after the reign of Diocletian it became part of the Spanish _Provincia Ulterior_. In the early Christian period also the coast of Morocco, whose inhabitants had joined the _Donatists_ (p. 172), shared the fortunes of Spain, belonging successively to the Vandals (p. 322), the Eastern Romans, and (after 620) the Visigoths, until in 682 it fell into the hands of the Arabs under _Sidi Okba_ (p. 322), and then after long struggles was united with the caliphate of Damascus (p. 485). Although the Berber tribes of Morocco were thenceforth among the most zealous champions of Islam, and in 711, at the instance of _Mûsa_, the governor, had undertaken their victorious expedition against Spain under _Târik_ (p. 54), yet they afterwards took part in the Kharijite movement against the Arabs (comp. p. 323). In 788 _Idris I._ (d. 793), an Arab refugee and a descendant of the Prophet (‘sherif’), founded the oldest Moroccan dynasty, that of the _Idrisides_, and under _Idris II._ (793–828) Fez became their new capital in 807 instead of Volubilis in the Zerhun Mts. After the fall of the Idrisides the country was divided among Berber princes, and its independence was threatened by Omaiyades (p. 69) and Fatimites (p. 323) alternately. At length in 1055 it succumbed to the attacks of the _Almoravides_ (Morabitîn, comp. p. 368), a Berber sect from the W. Sahara, who under _Abu Bekr’s_ lead converted the inhabitants of the interior as far as the Sudan to Islam. Under _Yûsuf ibn Têshufîn_ they took possession of Agâdir in 1081 (p. 188) and of Ceuta in 1084, and in 1086 took the lead in the struggle against the unbelievers in the Iberian peninsula. Morocco became still more powerful under the _Almohades_, a Berber sect formed in 1181 in the district now called Oran (p. 169), especially under the gifted caliph _Abd el-Mûmen_ (1130–63), who, after the battle of Tlemcen (p. 188), extended his sway over the Moorish states of Spain, and in 1160 as far as Barca (p. 414). After the overthrow of the Almohades in 1212 there arose in Barbary the three new kingdoms of the _Merinides_ at Fez, the _Abdelwadites_ (p. 188) at Tlemcen, and the _Hafsides_ (p. 323) in Tunis, whose strength was exhausted by sanguinary internecine struggles which lasted for centuries. The attacks of the _Portuguese_, who took Ceuta in 1415, occupied Arzila and Tangier in 1471, and after 1500 even threatened Marakesh from their base on the ocean seaboard, coupled with the advance of the Spaniards, who after the fall of Granada (p. 75) had conquered Melilla, called forth the new counter-movement of the _Saadites_ of the Draa. To this new dynasty, after the conquest of Marakesh in 1520 and of Fez in 1550, tho feeble dynasty of the Merinides succumbed in 1554. Morocco was afterwards torn by sanguinary family feuds, yet owing to the destruction of the Portuguese army in the ‘battle of the three kings’ at Alcázar (Ksar el-Kebîr), and the influx of well-educated Moors expelled from Spain, the kingdom was greatly strengthened and obtained a new lease of life. It prospered once more, after 1649, under the sixth dynasty, that of the _Filali_, a family from the Tafilet (see below), and notably under the cruel _Mulaï Ismail_ (1672–1727), one of the most powerful princes of his age, who even fought against the Turks in Oran (comp. p. 206) and led a campaign against Timbuktu. After the defeat of the Portuguese the pirates of Larash (p. 104) and Salee (p. 106), vying with the Rîf pirates and the ‘Barbaresques’ (p. 221), had seriously hampered European trade for two centuries or more, but by the occupation of Algeria by the French and the expedition of the Spaniards against Tetuán in 1859–60 the seaboard of Morocco was at length opened up to European influence and to commercial enterprise. In 1906 the Algeciras Conference (p. 56) prevented the French from advancing towards Fez and obtaining a passage from the Oran and Sahara railway through the Tafilet or Tafilelt, the richest group of oases in S. Morocco, to the ocean seaboard. In 1907, however, the unrest at Casablanca (p. 107), and also on the Algerian frontier, led to the French occupation of that important seaport along with the adjacent Shâuya, of Ujda (p. 197), and of Berguent and Bu Denib in S.E. Morocco. After the deposition of _Mulaï Abdul-Aziz_ (1894–1907), who was favourable to the French influence, _Mulaï Hafid_ was proclaimed sultan in 1908. The Morocco of to-day, whose institutions, manners, and customs are still quite mediæval, consists of the so-called _Blad el-Makhzen_ (‘government land’), the dominion of the sultan, and the far larger _Blad es-Siba_ (‘outer land’), occupied by independent tribes. These tribes recognize the sultan, or the grand sherif of Wazzân, a descendant of the Idrisides, as their spiritual chief only, but usually deny the sultan a right of way through their territory between the capital towns of Fez and Marakesh. The foreign trade of Morocco is confined to the eight ‘open’ ports of Tangier, Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, Mogador, and Tetuán, to the capitals of Fez and Marakesh, and has lately extended to Ujda and the Spanish Melilla (p. 124). In 1909 its total volume amounted to 132,612,000 fr. of which were ascribed to Great Britain 52,339,000 fr., to France 51,255,000 fr., to Germany 13,582,000 fr., to Spain 6,456,000 fr., and to the United States 1,111,000 fr. From France Morocco imports sugar, flour, and silk, from England cotton goods, tea, rice, and candles, from Germany iron wares, cloth, and sugar, and from Italy flour and wax-matches. The exports (to Marseilles, Gibraltar, Spain, England, Hamburg, etc., and also to Algeria and America) consist of goats’ and sheep’s hides, fruit (almonds, oranges, etc.), eggs, cattle, chick-pease, wheat, barley, and maize. The Morocco-leather slippers (_belra_, yellow for men and red for women) go to Egypt, Algeria, and Senegal. Besides the breeding of cattle, that of horses and mules also is important. Sardines and other fish abound off the ocean coasts. Most travellers are satisfied with a visit to Tangier, an excursion to Tetuán, and the interesting coasting voyage (best in April-Sept.) to Rabât or Mogador. Europeans rarely travel in the interior, except perhaps in Blad el-Makhzen, while in N. Morocco they should avoid the rainy winter season. As roads, bridges, and inns are lacking, a costly equipment for such expeditions is required, including tents, camp-beds, cooking utensils, provisions, drinking-water, candles, medicines, insect-powder, etc. A guide or mule-driver, a cook, an interpreter, and a soldier as an escort (mekhazni) also are usually engaged. Lastly a mule (incl. attendant and fodder, 4–5 pesetas per day) is preferable to a horse (5 p. or upwards), being more sure-footed and enduring. Before starting, the traveller should apply for information and assistance to a consul or other experienced resident, and obtain from them introductions to the local authorities (caid, pasha, or amel) or to so-called protégés (semsar, mokhâlat). Persons of distinction have a right to a formal reception by the authorities and to the mûna (free provisions, like the ancient ‘purveyance’), for which, as also for hospitality, a return is made either in kind (as firearms, telescopes, watches, trinkets) or in money. In the country it is advisable to put up at the village caravanserais (nzalas), where a night-watchman is provided (fee) and where offerings by the peasants (milk, oranges, etc.; small fee) should not be declined. At towns early arrival is essential, as all the gates are closed at sunset. As to dealings with Mohammedans, comp. p. xxv. Travellers are specially warned against photographing or even entering their mosques, saints’ tombs, or burial-grounds. In the seaport-towns Spanish silver (p. 52) and English or French gold are current, but in the interior Spanish and Morocco money only (silver coins of 5, 2½, 1¼, ½, and ¼ p.). In the interior letters of credit addressed to Jewish or other firms are convenient. BOOKS. _R. L. Playfair_ and _R. Brown_, Bibliography of Morocco (London, 1892); _Budgett Meakin_, The Moorish Empire (London, 1899), The Land of the Moors (London, 1901), The Moors (London, 1902), and Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond (London, 1905); _J. Thomson_, Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco (London, 1889); _W. B. Harris_, Tafilet (London, 1895); _A. S. Forrest_ and _S. L. Bensusan_, Morocco (London, 1904, illus.); _D. Mackenzie_, The Khalifate of the West (London, 1910; illus.; 10 _s._ 6 _d._); _E. Ashmead-Bartlett_, The Passing of the Shereefian Empire (Edinburgh, 1910; illus.; 15 _s._); _H. J. B. Ward_, Mysterious Morocco and how to appreciate it (London, 1910; 2 _s._ 6 _d._); _A. Brives_, Voyages au Maroc, 1901–7 (Algiers, 1909; illus.) and Aperçu géologique et agricole sur le Maroc occidental; _Ch. de Foucauld_, Reconnaissance au Maroc, 1883–4 (Paris, 1888); _Marq. de Segonzac_, Voyages au Maroc (Paris, 1903; 27 fr.); _Eug. Aubin_, Le Maroc d’Aujourd’hui (Paris, 1904; 5 fr.; also Engl, trans., ‘Morocco of To-day’, London, 1906); _H. Lorin_, L’Afrique du Nord (Paris, 1908). The best MAP of Morocco (1:500,000) is that published by the Service Géographique de l’Armée (Paris; 1 fr. each sheet). 12. Tangier. ARRIVAL. The steamers (see below) anchor in the open roads, and passengers are conveyed to the pier in small boats. The German companies furnish landing-tickets (1 _s._ for landing or embarking), otherwise the tariff is 1 peseta (from the larger steamers 1¼ p.) each person; trunk ½, hand-luggage ¼ p. When the sea is rough a blue flag is hoisted on the pier and fares are doubled; in stormy weather (yellow flag) a bargain must be made, provided landing be at all possible. It is advisable to stipulate for the landing of luggage and its transport to the hotel for an inclusive sum (¾–1 p.) and to disregard the noisy importunities of the boatmen and porters. If need be, the help of the hotel-agents may be invoked. The traveller should be on his guard against pilfering also. Guides, who represent themselves as agents for the hotels, also proffer their services, even during the crossing from Gibraltar, but their attendance generally makes everything dearer. Besides the fares mentioned, pier-dues are levied (25 c.; for each package 5 c.).—The custom-house examination at the town-gate is lenient. A passport is unnecessary. =Hotels.= HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. a; D, 1), in a quiet site, not far from the pier, with a fine sea-view, patronized by Americans, pens. from 10_s._; *HÔT. CECIL (Pl. b; E, 4, 5), on the Playa Grande, with a terrace and sea-view, pens. 10–12_s._; *HOT. VILLA VALENTINA (Pl. c; C, 5), on the Fez road, pens. 8–10_s._, 8 min. from the Outer Market; HÔT. VILLA DE FRANCE (Pl. d; B, 4), on a height behind the Outer Market, with fine view, 12 min. from the quay, an old-established French house, pens. from 10_s._—HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. e; D, 2), in the Inner Market (p. 100), pens. 8–10_s._, good; HÔT. CAVILLA, pens. 8–10 p., well spoken of, and HÔT. MACLEAN, pens. 6–8 p., both in the Outer Market; HÔT. ORIENTAL (Pl. f; D, 2), pens. from 8½ fr., near the Great Mosque.—Wine is usually an extra. =Cafés.= _Café-Restaurant Central_, Inner Market, déj. 2½, D. 3 p.; _Lion d’Or_ and _Café du Commerce_ near the French post-office. The _Arab Cafés_, mostly conducted by the guides, are a kind of Moorish cafés-chantants (cup of ‘Arab coffee’ in the evening 1 p.). =Post Offices.= _British_, _German_, and _Spanish_ (Pl. 3, 1, 2; D, 2), all in the Inner Market; _French_ (Pl. 4; D, 2, 3), behind the Great Mosque. Postage on letters to Great Britain, France, Germany, or Spain 10 c., if posted at the respective office, otherwise 25 c.; post-cards 10 c.—BRITISH TELEGRAPH (Pl. 6; B, 2), on the old road from the outer market to the Marshan; _French_, to Oran, at the French post-office; _Spanish_ (Pl. 5; D, 3), not far from the inner market. =Steamers.= _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._ (E. Chappory), from London fortnightly for Tangier, Mogador, the Canaries, and Madeira (RR. 14, 4, 3); _Bland Line_ (M. Pariente), for Gibraltar (R. 6 b), Tetuán (R. 13), and Larash (R. 14); _N. Paguet & Co._, for Marseilles, and for Rabât and Mogador (R. 14); _Trasatlántica_ (Ortenbach), Canary Line to Casablanca, Mazagan, etc. (R. 14); _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (Romany y Miquel), for Cadiz and Algeciras (R. 6 b), Ceuta (R. 13), Larash, Rabât, etc. (R. 14); _Navigation Mixte_ (_C. Touache_; R. Buzenet), for Melilla, Málaga, and Oran (R. 18); _Oldenburg-Portuguese_ (Renschhausen & Co.), for Mogador, etc. (R. 14); _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (Lalaurie & de Testa), from Southampton fortnightly for Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, etc.; _Nederland Royal Mail_, from Southampton fortnightly for Tangier, Algiers, etc.; _German East African Line_ (Jahn & Toledano), from Southampton every three weeks for Tangier, Marseilles, etc.; also excursion-steamers of the _Peninsular & Oriental Co._, etc. (see p. 2). [Illustration: KASBA] [Illustration: TÁNGER] =Physicians.= _Dr. Wilson_ (English); _Dr. Herzen_, Casa Dahl; _Dr. Steiner_, Hôt. Villa de France.—CHEMISTS. _British Pharmacy_; _Bouich & Ibbanez_; _Bouchard_, _Céreze_, both in the main street.—BRITISH HOSPITAL on the Marshan (comp. Map). =Banks.= _M. Pariente_ (English); _Banque d’Etat du Maroc_ (Pl. 12; D, 2), Inner Market; _Comp. Algérienne_, main street; _German Orient Bank_ (Pl. 11; D, 2), near the Great Mosque; _Jahn & Toledano_; _Renschhausen & Co._, on the shore. =Shops.= For Oriental goods (comp. p. 331): _Jos. Saadeh_, opposite the Spanish church (p. 100); _Bensaken_; _Mimon Delmar_ (‘Moorish Bazaar’).—PHOTOGRAPHS sold by _Ruedi_ (a Swiss); _Cavilla_, next door to the British Consulate. =Newspapers.= _El Moghreb el-Akhza_, English; _La Dépêche Marocaine_, _El Porvenir_, _El Eco Mauritano_, etc. =Horses=, mules, and donkeys (‘borricos’) at _Benmergui’s_, coast-road, and _Pedro’s_, Outer Market, near the German Embassy. Donkey, with attendant, per ride ½–1 p., per day 1½–2½ p.; mule, ½ day 2–3, day 3–5 p.; horse a little more (comp. p. 97). =Sea Baths.= _Delicias de la Playa_ and _Paraíso de la Playa_ on the Playa Grande (Pl. E, 3, 4), with fine beach, from May to Oct.; bath 25, with towels, etc. 50 c. =Legations and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN. Minister, _Hon. Reginald Lister_ (office, Pl. A, B, 4). Consul-General, _H. E. White_ (office, Pl. D, 2); vice-consul, _E. Bristow_.—UNITED STATES. Minister, _W. Carpenter_ (office, Pl. D, 3). Acting Consul-General, _G. E. Holt_.—=Lloyd’s Agent=, _Eugene Chappory_, in the main street. =English Church Service=, in the church in the Outer Market (Pl. B, 3), every Sun. (from Dec. till end of April) at 8 and 11 a.m., and at 3 p.m.—_Spanish Catholic_, at the church in the main street (p. 100). =Races= in spring and summer on the beach.—Arabian ‘_Fantasias_’ (_Laab el-Barood_) on horseback on the Mohammedan festivals, in the Inner Market or the Marshan. TWO DAYS (if time be limited). 1st. In the forenoon, the _Main Street_ and the _Inner Market_ (p. 100), _Outer Market_ (p. 100), _Marshan_ (p. 101), and _Kasba_ (p. 101); in the afternoon, walk on the beach.—2nd. Excursion to _Cape Spartel_ (p. 101). _Tangier_, Spanish or French _Tanger_, Arabic _Tanja_, capital of the Moroccan province of _El-Fahs_ or _Fahass_, the largest commercial town in the whole country, and the seat of legations from the great powers, lies picturesquely on the hilly W. bank of a shallow bay of the Atlantic. Of the 46,270 inhab. 25,000 are Mohammedans, 12,000 Moroccan Jews, and 9270 foreigners (incl. 7000 Spaniards). The rough and extremely dirty streets of the old town, above whose white sea of houses peeps here and there the minaret of a mosque, afford a genuine picture of Oriental life. Amid the noisy crowds are seen the most widely divergent types, from the pale yellow Moorish aristocrat to the dark-brown Moroccans of the south and the black negroes of the Sudan. Their costumes also are very various. The Mohammedans wear white or coloured burnous, brown jellâbas, yellow slippers (p. 97), and a coloured turban or red fez (tarbûsh). The Jews wear either European garb or the regulation black kaftan and fez. Most of the streets are impracticable for vehicles. The commonest beast of burden is the donkey; the frequent shout of ‘bâlek’ (take care) warns foot-passengers to make room. The busiest places are the quay, whence cattle from the interior are shipped for Gibraltar and Ceuta, and in the morning the three markets. Although already a Phœnician settlement, _Tingis_ (p. 101) first appears in history in the Roman period, when it vied with Oppidum Novum (Ksar el-Kebîr) and Volubilis as one of the chief places in this region. Augustus conferred on its inhabitants the right of citizenship, and Claudius made the town a Roman colony. It is unknown when Tangier was founded, but in the middle ages it fell behind the thriving seaports of Ceuta, Ksar es-Serîr (p. 123), and Arzila. According to Moorish tradition it was founded by Mulaï Abd es-Slam Buarakia, the patron saint of the town. In 1471 it fell into the hands of the Portuguese, and it belonged to Spain from 1580 to 1640. In 1662 it formed part of the dowry of Catharine of Braganza, consort of prince Charles (afterwards Charles II. of England), and thus came into the possession of the English. In 1664, however, the English were signally defeated by the Moors on the ‘_Jews’ River_’ (pp. 101, 102), and in 1684 evacuated the town, after demolishing the fortifications and the pier. Since then the town has belonged to Morocco. The present fortifications, constructed by English engineers, are mounted with antiquated guns, and the town-walls date partly from the Portuguese period. From the _Muelle Nuevo_ (Pl. E, 1; new pier, 1907; adm. 25 c.), we walk past the new harbour for lighters and the granary (Almacen), and then to the S.W. through the harbour-gate (_Bâb el-Marsâ_) into the MAIN STREET (Pl. D, C, 2, 3), which ascends the hill-side in a curve to the Outer Market. Passing the _Great Mosque_ or _Jâma el-Kebîr_ (Pl. D, 2), with its pretty gateway and lofty minaret inlaid with tiles, we reach the =Inner Market= (_Sok ed-Dáyel_; Pl. D, 2; Arabic _Sûk ed-Dakhl_), the centre of traffic, with the European post-offices (p. 98). Higher up, where the street takes the name of _Siiaguin_, are situated on the left the _Spanish Catholic Church_ (Iglesia Español; Pl. C, 3) and the Morocco _Ministry of Foreign Affairs_. At the end of the street is the upper gate of the inner town (_Bâb ed-Dakhl_), leading into _Los Herradores_ (Farriers’ Square; Pl. 8, C, 3), to the left of which, and also connected with the Outer Market by a gateway, lies the _Meat and Vegetable Market_ (Plaza de Abastos; Pl. C, 3). From the Farriers’ Square a second gate on the right leads to the _Mercado_ (Pl. C, 2, 3), an intermediate market-place, with rows of booths and a caravanserai (_Fondak_). Passing through the N. gate (Bâb el-Marshan; Pl. C, 3) and skirting the town-walls and the _Christian Cemetery_ (Pl. B, 2), we reach, on the left, the Paseo de Cenarro (Pl. B, A, 2), the new Marshan road, and (straight on) the Kasba and the old Marshan route (see p. 101). The Fez Gate (_Bâb el-Fahs_; Pl. C, 3) leads into the =Outer Market= (_Sûk el-Barra_; Pl. B, C, 3), which deserves a visit on market-days (Thursdays and particularly Sundays). In this great and very uneven plot of ground, adorned with the shrine of _Sidi Makhfî_ (Meyfi), the patron-saint of the market, we witness a strange and indescribable scene. Between the rows of salesmen and saleswomen, the latter veiled and clad in white, moves a motley throng of bargaining and jostling customers, while smaller groups gather round the jugglers, story-tellers, and snake-charmers (members of the sect of the Aïssaouas; p. 373). On the N. side of the Outer Market the MONTE ROAD (Camino del Monte; Pl. B, A, 3; p. 101) leads to the W., past two _Mohammedan Cemeteries_ (Cementerio de los Moros; Pl. B, A, 2–4) and the _Portuguese Legation_ (Pl. A, 3), to the (¼ hr.) _Villa Sicsu_ (comp. Map), with its pretty garden (gate-keeper ½–1 p.). From the gate of this villa a by-road ascends in a curve to the right to the =Marshan= (El Marxán; 341 ft.), a plateau to the N.W. of the town. At the W. end of it, above the Bubana Valley (see below), lie an estate of the _Sherif of Wazzân_ (Xerif de Uazán) and a _Mohammedan Cemetery_. Farther to the E., beyond the _Austrian Legation_, we come to a number of square _Phœnician Rock Tombs_, now partly used as cisterns, situated on the steep margin of the coast, which is undermined by the sea. The walled =Kasba= (Pl. B, C, 1), on the E. slope of the Marshan, is the highest and the most curious quarter of the town. Entering it by the upper gate (_Bâb ed-Doulah_ or _Bâb el-Marshan_; Pl. B, 1), we first come to the barracks and the _Naham Battery_ (Pl. B, 1), where we have a splendid view of the Straits of Gibraltar. Opposite us is the _Rauda_, or burial-chapel of the patron saint of the town (p. 100). A little below is seen the _Sultan’s Palace_ (Pl. B, C, 1), a good example of late-Moorish architecture, with a fine colonnaded court, a mosque, and a garden. The square at the lower end of the Kasba is bordered by the _Tesoro_ (Pl. 10; treasury), the _Mexuar_ (Pl. 9; law-courts), at the entrance to which the cadi administers justice from 8 to 11 in the morning, and the _State Prison_ (Cárcel; visitors admitted), where male prisoners are employed in basket-making and other work. Near this is a smaller prison for women. From the _Bâb el-Assa_, the lower Kasba gate (Pl. C, 1), a steep footpath, which soon offers a striking *View of the white houses of Tangier and of the beach, descends to the town. EXCURSIONS. We may walk or ride to the S.E., past the _Sea Baths_ (p. 99), along the beach, which forms an excellent riding-course at low tide, to the (¾–1 hr.) _Roman Bridge_ across the brook _Galeres_ (Wâd el-Mogoga), and thence a little inland over the sand-hills (100 ft.) to the =Ruins of Tingis= (Arabic _Tanja el-Bâlia_), where the Roman seaward gateway is still well preserved. The road then makes a long bend to the N. to the _Torre Blanquilla_ (243 ft.), an old Moorish battery on _Cape Malabata_ (p. 6), 2½–3½ hrs. from Tangier.—Another pleasant ride may be taken from the shore to the S.W., inland, through orange-groves to (1¼ hr.) the village of _Es-Suani_, where we strike the _Fez Road_ (p. 102), by which we may return to the Outer Market. The *Excursion to Cape Spartel, 7½ M. to the W. of Tangier, takes nearly a day (horses, etc., see p. 99; bargain advisable; provisions should be taken). From the Villa Sicsu (see above) we descend the Monte road to the _Bubana Valley_, watered by the little _Wâd el-Ihûd_ (‘Jews’ River’), ¾ hr. to the W. of Tangier. From the bridge we may go straight on, and mount direct to the top of the _Jebel Kebîr_ (1070 ft.), which is overgrown with low underwood, or (more attractive) we may follow the Monte road to _Monte Washington_, a colony of charming villas immediately overlooking the sea, and then, ¾ hr. farther on, rejoin the direct route. On both routes we enjoy a splendid view of the sea and the Spanish coast with Cape Trafalgar (p. 58). The main road at length descends to the W. margin of =Cape Spartel= (Arabic _Râs Ishberdil_), the ancient _Promontorium Ampelusia_, the north-westmost point of Africa. The lighthouse (312 ft.), built and maintained by the European great powers, at present the only one on the coast of Morocco (others are projected at Melilla, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador), is visible at sea from a distance of about 30 M. Near it are a signal-station and a meteorological station belonging to the nautical observatory of Hamburg. From the cape we may ride along the coast to the (2½ M.) _Hercules Grotto_, where excellent grindstones and millstones have been quarried from time immemorial, or, in returning to Tangier, we may diverge from the Bubana Valley to visit the _Olive Groves_, between the Jews’ River and the Fez road (see below). 13. From Tangier to Tetuán (_Ceuta_). The journey to Tetuán, about 37 M., may be performed (on horseback or by mule) in one day, but travellers wishing to break their journey may spend a night at a fondak (see below) where, considering the rough accommodation, it is best to camp outside (tents and camping-utensils should be taken from Tangier). An escort is advisable. Or we may go to Tetuán by a steamer of the _Bland Line_ (usually on Sat. even., in 3 hrs.; $4), and return thence to Tangier or Gibraltar by the _Navigation Mixte_ (p. 123; every second Tues.; agent at Tetuán, Salvador Hassan). From Tangier to Ceuta direct there is a weekly steamer (on Thurs.) of the _Vapores Correos de Africa_. For the excursion to Ceuta a passport _visé_ by the Spanish consul at Tangier or Tetuán is required. A local boat crosses daily from Ceuta to Algeciras (p. 56) in 2 hrs. From the Outer Market we follow the Fez road (Pl. C, 3–5; Camino de Fez) to the S., passing at some distance from the stone huts of the Berber villages (_Duâr_) in the fertile hill-country of the province of _El-Fahs_. Nearing the village of _Aïn-Dalia_, we pass below it, ride to the S.E. in view of the steep peak of _Jebel Zinat_, crowned with the ruined house of Raisuli, and ascend in the fertile valley of the _Wâd Marhar_ (_Tahaddart_). Here, on the right, beyond the hills inhabited by the Berber tribe of the _Beni Msaur_, we can sometimes descry in clear weather the distant _Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam_ (5742 ft.), the most sacred mountain in N. Morocco. The track then ascends through remains of cork-tree forest in the beautiful hill-region of the _Wâd Râs_. At the top of the pass (1476 ft.), the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, stands the fondak of _Aïn el-Jedida_, the largest caravanserai in N. Morocco (comp. above). The roof-terrace commands a fine view of the hills around. The track, which soon affords a beautiful *View of Tetuán, now descends the stony slope to the E. into the valley of the _River Martín_, a stream rising on the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam. =Tetuán= (197 ft.; Hot. Dersa, pens. 10 p.; Hot. Calpe, R. 3, pens. 10 p., plain but good; Hot. Victoria, pens. 6–8 p.; Brit. vice-cons., W. S. Bewicke), Arabic _Titawân_, Berber _Tettawên_, an interesting town, containing among its 30,450 inhab. 6000 Jews, 400 Spaniards, and about 500 immigrants from Algeria, lies 7 M. from the Mediterranean and above the left bank of the River Martín, not far from the ancient Roman _Thamuda_. The garden-like environs are fertile and well watered. With its numerous minarets, its domed tombs of saints, its town-walls garnished with many towers, and its loftily placed citadel (Kasba) overshadowed on the N. by the red sandstone rocks of the _Jebel Dersa_, it presents a most charming picture of an Oriental town entirely free from European disfigurement. The narrow, winding streets recall the ancient part of Cordova, and the colonnaded courts of the externally plain Moorish houses resemble the patios of Seville (p. 61). In the more regularly built Mellah (Jewish quarter) one is often struck with the beauty of the Jewish girls and the women’s gold-embroidered festive attire. Some parts of the town still show traces of the Spanish siege of 1859–60, which gained for the victorious Marshal O’Donnell the title of ‘Duke of Tetuán’. The graves in the _Jewish Cemetery_ are sometimes not unlike the anthropoid sarcophagi of the Phœnicians (comp. p. 347). The old _Portuguese Watch Tower_ at _Kilallin_ affords a superb panorama. The mouth of the River Martín, which is much choked with sand, forms the harbour of Tetuán, but sea-going vessels have to anchor in the open roads. The trade of the place is unimportant. A coast-road was constructed by the Spaniards during the Morocco campaign, connecting Tetuán with Ceuta (23 M.), but now only a track remains. It leads at first through the coast-plain at the E. base of _Jebel Dersa_ (see above), and then, beyond the _Cabo Negro_ or _Cape Negron_ (886 ft.; Arabic _Râs et-Tarf_), skirts the fertile spurs of the _Anjera Mts._ Beyond the Moroccan frontier guard-house, we enter Spanish territory, protected by a chain of block-houses, and skirt the E. slope of the Jurassic _Sierra Bullones_ or _Apes’ Hill_ (2809 ft.; Arabic _Jebel Mûsa_, _i. e._ Hill of Moses), where apes abound. This is the highest peak of the Anjera Mts. and was famed in antiquity as one of the pillars of Hercules (p. 54). =Ceuta= (several small Spanish inns; no photographing allowed), Arabic _Sebta_, a town of 10,000 inhab. (of whom 3000 are soldiers), the only important Spanish possession in Morocco besides Melilla (p. 124), lies on a narrow, flat tongue of land between a spur of the Sierra Bullones, crowned with the white tomb of a saint, and the strongly fortified peninsula of _Almina_, which culminates in the _Monte del Acho_ (637 ft.). Originally Phœnician, it became a Roman colony, under the name of _Ad Septem Fratres_ (later _Septon_ or _Septa Emporia_), and in the middle ages was the most important and prosperous seaport of N. Morocco. In 1169 it was the seat, of a Genoese trading station, and in 1415 it fell into the hands of the Portuguese, from whose time date the ruins of _Ceuta la Vieja_ (old Ceuta). Since 1580, in spite of repeated attacks by the Moroccans (1694–1720, 1732), it has remained in the uninterrupted possession of Spain, and it now presents a sadly decayed appearance. The tunny and sardine fisheries here are very thriving. 14. From Tangier to Mogador by Sea. 411 M. STEAMBOATS. =1.= _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._ (see RR. 5, 4, 3; often full all the way from London), every other Friday, viâ Casablanca, Mazagan, and Saffi to Mogador in 5 days (agents at Tangier, Eug. Chappory; at Casablanca and Saffi, Murdoch, Butler, & Co.; at Mazagan, J. de Maria; and at Mogador, R. Yuly & Co.).—=2.= _Oldenburg-Portuguese Line_ fortnightly to Mogador, calling at intermediate ports (agents at Tangier and Larash, Renschhausen & Co.; at Rabât, Weickert & Enke; at Casablanca and Saffi, Lamb Bros.; at Mazagan, Ch. Balestrino; at Mogador, Borgeaud, Reutemann, & Co.).—=3.= _N. Paquet & Co._ (p. 120), Monday evenings (returning on Frid.), to Rabât, intermediate ports, and Mogador in 4 days.—=4.= _Vapores Correos de Africa_ twice monthly to Mogador viâ, Larash, Rabât, Casablanca, Mazagan, and Saffi in 5½ days. There are also the small cargo-boats of the Genoese _Servizio Italo-Spagnuolo_, of _Rius & Torres_ of Barcelona, and others. The small boats of the _Bland Line_ ply between Tangier and Larash once or twice weekly. The Canary Line of the _Compañía Trasatlántica_ touches once monthly at Tangier (if required also at Casablanca and Mazagan).—Landing and embarkation in lighters at most of the intermediate ports is often impracticable for weeks together, especially in winter. Harbours are in course of construction at Larash and Casablanca, and one at Saffi is projected.—Tangier, Rabât, Casablanca, and Mogador have wireless telegraph stations. Along the =Ocean Seaboard= of Morocco (about 835 M. to _Cape Juby_) navigation is often impeded by gales, sandbanks, and fogs. The seaports lie mostly at the mouths of rivers or in small and shallow open bays. The STEAMERS round the sandstone rocks of _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) and steer to the S.W., at some distance from the land, above which in clear weather are seen the _Rîf Mts._, with the Jebel Habib (2990 ft.) and the Jebel Mulaï Abd es-Slam (p. 102). In the coast-plain of _El-Gharbia_ we next observe, on a terrace abraded by the sea, the decayed little seaport-town of _Arzila_, the Phœnician _Zilis_, Rom. _Colonia Zilis Constantia_, with a ruinous town-wall of the Portuguese period. Beyond the _Haffet el-Beida_, a spur of the hill-region of _Sahel_, once famed for its cork-tree groves and its fertility, we near the broad mouth of the _Lukkus_ or _El-Kus_, the _Lix_ of antiquity, and obtain a splendid view of the white sandstone walls and the castellated Kasba of Larash. =Larash=, also called _Larache_ or _Laraiche_, Arabic _El-Araïsh_ (Hot. Lukkus, on the river-bank; landing or embarkation 1 p.; Brit. vice-cons., L. Forde), a somewhat dirty town of 13,220 inhab. (incl. 3000 Jews and 200 Europeans), one of the chief seaports of Morocco, lies on the left bank of the Lukkus, about 100 ft. above the river. The total exports and imports are valued at 18 million francs. In the 16th cent. the town was an important Portuguese centre of trade, and in 1580–1689 it belonged to Spain. It then became a war-harbour and the headquarters of the pirates of Morocco, and was fruitlessly attacked by the French in their disastrous expedition of 1765, and by an Austrian squadron in 1829. The former harbour, which was rendered inaccessible to vessels of larger draught by the bar obstructing it and the shallowness of the river-mouth, is being superseded by a new harbour now under construction. The town-walls, the moats, the coast-batteries, and the small fortifications on the S. bank of the river date from the Spanish occupation. From the landing-place on the N.E. margin of the town we pass through the harbour-gate into the spacious _Inner Market_ (Sûk ed-Dakhl), with the old _Spanish Merchants’ Hall_ (Fondak el-Essbenyoli) and arcades lined with shops. Gateways lead thence to the N.W. to the picturesque _Kasba_ (no admission), and to the S.E. to the _Government Palace_ (Dâr el-Makhzen). The _Chief Mosque_ was once the Spanish cathedral, and several of the dwelling-houses are still Spanish in character. Outside the Bâb el-Khemis lies the extensive _Outer Market_ (Thurs.). Excellent oranges and other fruit are grown in the beautiful gardens around. Some Roman ruins, relics of the old town of _Lixus_ (p. 95), now overgrown with brushwood, lie on the _Jebel Tshemmish_, a low hill on the right bank of the Lukkus, about 1½ hr. from Larash (best reached by boat). As the STEAMER proceeds there appears on the horizon a range of sand-hills, 31 M. long, which separates the Sebu bay from the sea. This bay (p. 93) is now dry land, with the exception of two shallow lakes (_Merja ez-Zerga_ and _Merja Râs ed-Dôra_) and large tracts of swamp. To the E. rises the _Jebel Sarsar_ (1805 ft.), near Ksar el-Kebîr. On the left bank of the _Sebu_ (ancient _Subur_), near the _Mamora Forest_, the largest plantation of cork-trees in Morocco, lies _Mehedia_ or _Mehdiya_ (pop. 500), a thriving seaport during the sway of the Almohades, but now fallen to utter decay. A fine Moorish town-gate of the 12th cent. and many ruins of the Portuguese period may be visited. =Rabât= (Hot. Ignace, R. 2, pens. 10 fr., Hot. Alegría, Spanish, both unpretending; Brit. vice-cons., A. H. Cross; Engl. Church service), or _Rbât_, situated in the Tell (p. 93) on the left bank of the _Bu Regreg_, 138 M. from Tangier, is one of the sultan’s residences and vies with Tetuán (p. 102) as a most interesting coast-town. Its population together with that of Salee (p. 106) is 47,140 inhab., incl. 3000 Jews and 100 Europeans. As it is the ‘key of Morocco’, where the caravan routes from Tangier, Fez, and Casablanca (Marakesh) converge, and is also exposed to the attacks of the turbulent inland tribes of the _Zemmûr_ and _Zaïr_, it has been fortified with an inner and two outer walls. A _Fort_, built in 1888–92, defends the entrance to the harbour, now much choked with sand. The difficulty of landing (charge for each passenger 2½ p.) has caused the trade of the place (imports and exports about 8 million francs) to decline and to fall behind that of Tangier, Larash, and Mogador. Several of the industries have long been famous (carpet-making, wool-weaving, woodwork, saffian leather, etc.). Founded in 1197, opposite to Salee (see below), by the Almohade Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), the still prosperous town is noted for its well-educated population, mostly Moorish, and its genuine Moroccan character. The dwelling-houses, in the Andalusian-Moorish style, vie in their internal architecture with those of Tetuán. Noteworthy are also the old town-gates, the portal of the _Kasba_, with the barracks of the Udaia, and the decayed _Medersa_ (school of the learned), with its picturesque colonnaded *Court. At the S.E. angle of the town, not far from the harbour-gate and the Mohammedan cemetery, is the _Mellah_ or Jews’ quarter. Outside the _Bâb el-Hâd_, on the W. side of the inner town-wall, is the Jewish burial-ground, adjoining the _Sûk el-Hâd_, or Sunday market, the most important cattle-market in the whole country, supplied chiefly by the Zemmûr, Zaïr, and Zaiân tribes.—On the terrace of the coast, by the W. outer wall (reached also from the Bâb el-Alû by the road past the Christian cemetery), stands the handsome, but now disused sultan’s palace of _El-Kebibât_. Beyond the Jews’ quarter, and not far from the *Bâb Shellah (1178–84) with its two octagonal towers, we see rising amidst orchards, above the Bu Regreg, the conspicuous *_Hassan Tower_, the great landmark of Rabât. This was once the minaret of a mosque, erected, according to tradition, by Jâbir (p. 62) for Yakûb ibn Yûsuf in 1197, but now entirely destroyed saving a few columns and fragments of masonry. The unfinished tower, with its notched arches and ornamentation in relief style, is 145 ft. high. About 1 M. to the S. of the town, near the outer walls, is the _Dâr el-Makhzen_, a second palace of the sultan, with the burial-mosque of Mohammed XVII. and Mulaï Hassan (1873–94), and a beautiful garden. Near this is the S.E. outer gateway. Among the neighbouring hills, beyond a small Mohammedan burial-ground, is a walled and turreted square enclosing the ancient town of *_Shellah_, the mouldering ruins of which are overgrown with rank vegetation; we find here an excellent well. In the dilapidated burial-mosque repose the Almohade Abû Yakûb (p. 61), the Merinide Ali V. (d. 1351), and other sovereigns.—A little way off, on the S. margin of the swampy and malarious river-flats, are famous orange-gardens. A ferry connects Rabât with the antiquated town of _Salee_, _Saleh_, or _Slâ_, the _Sala_ of the Carthaginians and Romans, which, down to recent times, was like Larash one of the most dreaded haunts of pirates (‘Salee rovers’) and one of the worst slave-markets in all Morocco. The town shows every sign of decay; but its gates, especially the Bâb el-Ansera (now walled up), with its two towers, the ruinous gate of the cemetery, and the domed tombs of saints, all present a most fascinating architectural picture. Proceeding on her course the STEAMER skirts a monotonous, treeless coast, broken only by the mouths of a few small rivers, with here and there a poor village. One of these villages is _Fedalah_ (in the middle ages _Afdalah_), once a thriving little seaport, which was temporarily occupied by the Spaniards in 1773. On a headland much exposed to N. winds, 190 M. from Tangier, lies— =Casablanca.=—Passengers are conveyed from the steamers, which anchor in the open roads to the N.E. of the town, to the new quay by boat (2½ p. each person). HOTELS. _Hôt. Central_, R. 4–5, B. 1, D. 2, pens. 10–12 fr., _Hôt. de France_, pens. 8–10 fr., both good; _Hôt. Moderne_, pens. 8–10 fr.; _Hôt. de l’Univers_; _Hôt. de l’Europe_; _Hôt. Continental_; _Hôt. de Cuba_, outside the town, Spanish. CONSULS. British, _A. M. Madden_; vice-consuls, _E. G. Lomas_, _R. H. Broome_.—United States Consular Agent, _H. Toel_. ENGLISH CHURCH. _St. John the Evangelist’s_, outside the town; service every Sun. at 11 a.m. _Casablanca_, Arabic _Dâr el-Beida_ (‘the white house’), a town of 31,700 inhab. (incl. 2500 French and as many Spaniards), was founded in the 16th cent. by the Portuguese as _Casa Branca_ on the ruins of the ancient (Phœnician?) town of _Anfa_. The place appears in mediæval Venetian charts as _Níffe_ or _Anafe_, but it was abandoned by the Moors in 1468. The town was destroyed in 1755 by an earthquake simultaneous with that of Lisbon; it was not rebuilt till the 19th cent., and is now the most important outlet in the country for Moroccan commodities (exports and imports in 1909 ca. 25½ million fr.). To this centre are brought cattle from the neighbouring provinces, from the remoter districts of Tadla (or Tedla), and from the steppes of the Central Atlas, while the fertile region of Shâuya supplies it with grain and wool. Thanks to the peace and security which the French troops of occupation have restored trade has steadily increased. The town, which is still enclosed by a wall of defence built in the Portuguese period, lies on a terrace of Devonian sandstone (E. side) and slate (W. side), in which the surf has worn a small shallow bay. The harbour thus formed is to be protected by a breakwater (in course of construction) which will make landing and embarking in all weathers possible (comp. above).—From the harbour we pass through the Waterport Gate into the main street of the _Medina_ or Mohammedan business quarter. Most of the foreign consulates and banks and the international Anfa Club are situated in this street. Just off it are the British Consulate and the British Post Office, while higher up is the new French post-office. The _Mellah_, or Jewish quarter, lies on the S. side of the town. Near the Bâb es-Sûk, or S.E. gate, is the *_Market_ (Sûk; comp, p. 335), and a little beyond it are the warehouses of the foreign merchants. In the W. quarter (_Tnaquer_), which down to 1907 consisted chiefly of the reed-huts of the lower-class workmen, similar to those outside the S.W. gate (_Bâb Marâkesh_), modern stone dwellings have sprung up and public grounds also have been laid out. Farther out are the wooden barracks of the French and Spanish troops of occupation. On the low hills to the E. and S.E. are the new French forts ‘Provost’ and ‘Ihler’. A considerable way beyond Casablanca the STEAMER passes the mouth of the _Um er-Rebîa_ (see below), on the left bank of which is Asimmûr, and a little farther on it casts anchor in the open roads of Mazagan, far outside the little harbour, which dates from the Portuguese period. (Landing or embarkation 3 p.) =Mazagan= (Hôt. de l’Univers, pens. 6–8 fr.; Hôt. du Commerce, same charges; Brit. vice-cons., T. G. Spinney; pop. 25,500, incl. 3000 Jews and about 500 Europeans), formerly called _El-Brîja_ by the Moroccans, now _El-Jedida_ (‘the new’), 250 M. from Tangier, lies on a terrace on the W. shore of a large bay which is now much choked with sand. It was founded by the Portuguese in 1506, held by them down to 1769, and was their last possession in Morocco; but it long remained a place of no importance. The old town, square in shape, protected from the surf by a chain of cliffs, and altered after 1769, is still enclosed by its Portuguese wall of defence, which is 29 ft. thick at places. Several houses bearing Portuguese coats-of-arms and the _Palace of the Inquisition_ in the N. angle of the town recall the Christian domination. In recent times Mazagan has developed into the chief seaport of Marakesh. The great Thursday market, held on the W. side of the town, and the granaries on the S. side afford an idea of the extent of its trade (imports and exports being estimated, when crops are good, at 20 million fr. per annum). The climate is considered very healthy. The alcanna shrub (Lawsonia inermis) abounds in the environs. From its leaves is prepared the brownish-red _henna_, used for colouring the finger-nails. This ancient custom still prevails among both Mohammedans and Jews in N. Africa. EXCURSIONS. The picturesquely situated town of =Azimmûr=, about 12½ M. to the E., lies on the _Um er-Rebîa_ or _Morbêya_, the _Asama_ of antiquity, a stream which separates the Shâuya region from the Dukkâla The town, with its 10,000 inhab., incl. 1000 Jews, contains the shrine of Mulaï bu Shaïb, much visited by pilgrims, and is environed with beautiful gardens of pomegranates, oranges, and figs. On the same river lie the orange-groves of _Mhiula_.—To the S.W. one may ride along the coast, past the _Zâuya Mulaï Abdallah_ and the ruins of the Roman town of _Tit_, to Cabo Blanco (see below). Leaving Mazagan we pass the _Cabo Blanco_ (230 ft.; Arabic _Jerf el-Asfâr_) and then the _Walediya Lake_, ca. 40 M. long. Farther on, from the abrupt coast juts out _Cape Cantin_ (450 ft.; Arabic _Râs el-Hûdik_), well known to mariners as a landmark, whence the coast runs S. to the Tensift (p. 109). We call next at— =Saffi= (Hot. Llamas; Brit. vice-cons., G. B. Hunot; pop. 19,750, incl. 2500 Jews), called also _Safi_ or _Asfi_, 350 M. from Tangier. The harbour is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. gales by a narrow neck of land and two cliffs, and its entrance is obstructed by a sandbank. (Landing or embarkation 1 p.) Saffi is the capital of the fertile region of _Abda_, noted for its horse-breeding, and girdled with black soil (comp. p. 93) fertile to a breadth of 37 M. at places. It lies picturesquely on a lofty chalk plateau, in an almost semicircular bay, amidst woods and green pastures, but is haunted by fever in summer. Prior to the foundation of Mazagan and Mogador it was the chief port of Marakesh, and like Agâdir (p. 110) was one of the most important harbours of S. Morocco, but its trade, mostly in European hands, has now fallen off (total about 10 million francs). The chief industry of the place, which has given its name to Saffian leather, is now the manufacture of pottery. Close to the harbour lies the _Jewish Quarter_, and behind it is the _Medina_ or Mohammedan quarter, both squalid. Adjoining the latter is the Spanish Catholic church. The picturesque _Citadel_ at the E. end of the old town and the town-walls are of Portuguese origin. The Sûk, or market, is in the S. suburb of _Rabbât_. The STEAMER next sights, near the mouth of the _Tensift_, the _Jebel el-Hadid_ (2182 ft.; ‘iron-mountain’; p. 110), already famed in Punic times for its iron-ore, the only considerable hill on the coast between this and Mogador. The vessel rounds _Cape Hadid_, the S. limit of the fertile coast-plain, sighting in the distance the spurs of the _Great Atlas_ (p. 93), and soon reaches (410 M. from Tangier; landing or embarkation 2½ p.) the seaport of— =Mogador= (Hôt. Royal, English; Palm Tree Hotel, 2½ M. to the S. of the town, prettily situated, good; Brit. vice-cons., H. B. Johnstone; U. S. cons. agent, G. Broome; Engl. Church service), called in Arabic _Es-Sueïra_ also, with 24,350 inhab., incl. 12,000 Jews and a good many French, English, Spanish, and other Europeans. The new town with its straight lines of streets was erected in 1760–70 under Sultan Mulaï Sidi Mohammed on the site of _Mogator_, which was destroyed in 1755 by the same earthquake as that of Lisbon. In 1844 the town was stormed by French marines. Mogador lies in 31° 31′ N. lat. and 9° 60′ W. long., on a flat spit of land, bounded on the W. by a small lake, beyond which rises a great range of sand-hills, at places 427 ft. high and 3¼ M. in breadth. To the S.W. a chain of cliffs and the rocky islet of _Mogador_, the only island on the coast of Morocco, form the harbour, which is much exposed to the sea-winds. The N. entrance to the harbour, between the town and the island, is about 825 yds. broad and 45 ft. deep; the broad S. entrance, opposite the mouth of the _Wâd Kseb_, is only 13 ft. in depth. Mogador serves as a port for the adjacent provinces of _Shiâdma_ (or _Shedma_), _Haha_, and _Mtûga_, as well as a mart for goods from the _Sûs_ (see below). It is the stronghold of Judaism in Morocco, as the Jews control the inland trade with Marakesh, and it is only of late that they have had European rivals in the ocean traffic. The total exports and imports amount to about 17 million francs. We land not far from the _Harbour Battery_, mounted with antiquated guns, and proceed first to the _Kasba_ quarter, where the governor’s house, the chief mosque, a synagogue, and the Spanish church are situated. From the Meshwâr, the principal square in the Kasba, a broad street leads to the _Medina_, the Mohammedan quarter, where a number of Europeans and wealthy Jews also reside. Here, in the centre of the town, is the _Sûk_, famed for the native copper wares, besides various goods from Marakesh, which are sold there. Beyond the market, in the N.E. angle of the town, is the _Mellah_, an extremely dirty quarter, with narrow streets, inhabited by the poorer Jews. From the Bâb Marâkesh, the S.E. gate, we may follow the conduit, at first along the embankment between the bay of the harbour and the lake, and then past the _Kubba of Sidi Mogdul_, the local saint, to the winding valley of the _Wâd Kseb_. Here rises a ruinous _Palace of the Sultan_, and beyond the sand-hills lies the sadly neglected _Sultan’s Garden_. The finest point in the wooded inland region near Mogador, which abounds in game, is the valley of _Aïn el-Hajar_ (‘rock-spring’), 15½ M. to the N.E. From the Bâb Asfi, the N.E. town-gate, the route leads past the Christian and the large Jewish cemeteries, and follows the Saffi caravan-track along the coast, where at low tide it is pleasanter to ride on the beach. After about 2 hrs. we cross the hill to the E., where in the extensive growth of underwood are seen numerous argan-trees (Argania sideroxylon), the kernels of whose fruit yield a table-oil resembling that of the olive.—From Aïn el-Hajar we may in clear weather ascend the _Jebel el-Hadid_ (p. 109), which rises to the N.; on the summit (2182 ft.) is a chapel dedicated to _Sidi Yakûb_, whence in the far distance we may descry the Great Atlas. To the S. of Mogador lies the hilly region of _Haha_, skirting the base of the Great Atlas, and rich in olives and argan-trees, through which a rough caravan-route, running inland from _Cape Tafetneh_ and passing _Cape Gîr_, leads to =Agâdir= (pop. 2500). This was formerly the seaport for the region of Sûs (p. 94), and was even the goal of caravans from the Sudan district, but since the building of Mogador has lost all European trade. In the 16th cent. Agâdir, under the name of _Santa Cruz_, was the southmost possession of the Portuguese in Morocco. V. SEA ROUTES IN THE WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN. Route Page 15. From Gibraltar to Genoa 111 a. Through the Balearic Sea 111 b. Viâ Algiers 117 16. From Gibraltar to Naples 118 17. From (Lisbon) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles 119 18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran 123 19. From Marseilles to Oran 126 20. From Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona 126 21. From Marseilles to Tunis 128 22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea 130 23. From Marseilles to Naples 132 24. From Genoa to Naples 134 25. From Genoa to Tunis viâ Leghorn and Cagliari 142 26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo 146 27. From Naples to Syracuse (Malta, Tunis, Tripoli) viâ Messina and Catania 154 From Messina to Syracuse, 158. 15. From Gibraltar to Genoa. a. Through the Balearic Sea. 1000 M. STEAMBOATS (see ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’, and comp. pp. 53, 114). _White Star Line_ (from New York or Boston), two or three times monthly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton), monthly; _Cunard Line_ (from New York), occasionally; _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (from S. America), monthly. On leaving _Gibraltar_ (p. 52) the steamer enters the open Mediterranean and steers to the E.N.E., generally at an accelerated speed, as far as Cape Palos, owing to the strong current flowing in from the Atlantic (p. 5). Looking back, farther on, we enjoy in clear weather a splendid *View of the Straits, and especially of the coast of Morocco from Cape Spartel to the _Punta de la Almina_ (p. 123), from which peep the white houses of _Ceuta_. The Rîf Mts. (_Jebel Beni Hassan_, p. 123) also remain visible for a time. The Spanish coast with the _Sierra Bermeja_, the _Sierra de Mijas_, and the _Punta de Calaburras_ (lighthouse) gradually recedes Far away to the left is the bay of _Málaga_. Off _Cape Sacratif_, with its lighthouse, we obtain a grand *View of the _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49), in front of which rise the almost entirely barren _Sierra de Almijara_, _Sierra Contraviesa_, and _Sierra de Gádor_. Near the _Punta del Sabinal_ (lighthouse) opens the broad semicircular bay of _Almería_; in the foreground rise the bare hills of _Cabo de Gata_ (1683 ft.; lighthouse), with the _Puerto Genovés_ beyond. Steering now to the N.E., we pass the _Punta de Loma Pelada_, backed by the _Frailes_ (‘monks’), two huge pyramids of rock; then the _Mesa de Roldán_, the bay of _Cartagena_ (p. 125), the _Cabo Tiñoso_, _Cape Palos_, and the island of _Hormiga Grande_, all with lighthouses. Nearing the Balearic Islands, we may descry to the left, in very clear weather, the coast-plain of _Murcia_ and even the distant hills of _Alicante_, as far as _Cabo de la Nao_ and _Mongó_. The vessel now steers round the _Balearic Islands_ (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal), on the S.E. side if storms in the Gulf of Lions are expected, but usually through the bay of _Valencia_ and the _Balearic Sea_. In this case we pass close to the island of _Iviza_, which is flanked on the S.W. (in front of the _Atalayasa_; 1559 ft.) by the bold rocky islet of _Vedrá_, and on the W. by the _Bleda Islets_ and _Conejera_ (with a lighthouse). On the N.E. point of Iviza is the lighthouse of _Punta Grosa_. In the foreground, farther on, appear the bold limestone slopes of the island of _Dragonera_, with a lighthouse (1191 ft.) visible for 40 M. round. Beyond it is _Mallorca_, or _Majorca_, the largest of the Balearic Islands, whose barren mountains, culminating in the _Puig Mayor_ (4741 ft.) in the centre, are visible to their full extent beyond the little port of _Soller_. From _Cape Formentor_ (lighthouse), at the N.E. point of Majorca, the steamer proceeds due N.E. to the _Ile du Levant_ or _du Titan_ (lighthouse, visible for nearly 40 M. round), the eastmost of the _Iles d’Hyères_ (p. 133), which flank the coast of Provence. The island of _Porquerolles_ also, the westmost of the group, is visible. In favourable weather the *Voyage through the _Ligurian Sea_ affords delightful views. The steamers vary their course, but usually steer towards Cape Ferrat near Villefranche, past _Cape Camarat_ (lighthouse), the beautiful double bay of _Cannes_ (with the _Iles de Lérins_ opposite to it), and the _Cap d’Antibes_. On a clear day Nice is visible in the distance. We then skirt the _Riviera di Ponente_ (p. 118), passing Ventimiglia, Oneglia, and Albenga, backed by the _Maritime_ and the _Ligurian Alps_, snow-clad in winter and spring. On the picturesque coast between Nice and Bordighera the scenery changes rapidly. After the little bay of _Villefranche_ (_Villafranca_), with _Cape Ferrat_ (lighthouse), come _Beaulieu_, the grey rock village of _Eze_, close under the Grande-Corniche, and _La Turbie_, overtopped by the forts behind. We next sight the rock of _Monaco_, with its cathedral and huge marine museum, while among the houses of the little principality may be seen the less conspicuous casino of _Monte Carlo_. Beyond the olive-clad _Cape Martin_ appears the bay of _Mentone_, with its superb circus of mountains, then _Cape Mórtola_, the Italian frontier-town of _Ventimiglia_, and, beyond the ravine of the _Roja_, the little town of _Bordighera_, with its cape and its dense olive and palm groves. Next come _Ospedaletti_, overlooked by the loftily-situated little town of _Coldirodi_, and _San Remo_, on a broad bay bounded by _Capo Nero_ and _Capo Verde_. The coast is now less attractive till we are off _Porto Maurizio_, a provincial capital picturesquely situated on a headland, and approach _Oneglia_. [Illustration: GENOVA] Near _Cape Berta_ we gradually leave the coast, pass _Cape Mele_, with its lighthouse (742 ft.) and Marconi station for wireless telegraphy, and steer across the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lie _Laigueglia_, _Alassio_, and, beyond the fissured island of _Gallinaria_, the little town of _Albenga_. Next, on a semicircular coast-plain, lie the villages of _Loano_ and _Finale Marina_, and a little beyond them rises the _Capo di Noli_. Beyond _Cape Vado_ we overlook the bay of the industrial seaport of _Savona_, as far as the headland of _Portofino_ (p. 134). In the background rise the _Apennines_ and the _Apuan Alps_ (p. 134), snow-capped in winter. Steering through the _Avamporto_ and the _Porto Nuovo_, we obtain a superb *View of _Genoa_, rising in a semicircle on the hill-side. =Genoa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The passenger-steamers land at the _Ponte Federico Guglielmo_ (Pl. A, B, 3; with custom-house, post, telegraph, and railway offices) in the _Porto_ or inner harbour. Failing room at that pier, they anchor near it (landing by boat, with luggage, 1 fr.; embarkation 30, at night 50 c.), or they are berthed at the _Ponte Andrea Doria_ (Pl. A, 3).—At the custom-house examination the facchino of the dogana expects 20–30 c. =Railway Stations.= =1.= _Stazione Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2; Rail. Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief station for all trains, where cabs (p. 114) and omnibuses are in waiting.—=2.= _Stazione di Brignole_ or _Orientale_ (Pl. H, I, 6), the E. station, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, a subsidiary station for Pisa, Florence, Rome, etc.—Railway-tickets may be obtained also of the _Fratelli Gondrand_, Via Venti Settembre 35, and of _Thos. Cook & Son_ (p. 114). HOTELS (mostly in noisy situations and variously judged). *GRAND-HÔT. MIRAMARE (Pl. mi; A, 2), Via Pagano Doria, above the principal station, with terrace, R. from 6, D. 6, omn. 2 fr.; BERTOLINI’S BRISTOL HOT. (Pl. p; F, 6), Via Venti Settembre 35, R. from 7, D. 7, omn. 1½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. DE GÊNES (Pl. f; E, 5), R. from 5, D. 6–7, omn. 1 fr.; EDEN PALACE (Pl. b; G, 5), Via Serra 6–8, R. from 6, D. 5–7 fr.; GR.-HÔT. SAVOIE (Pl. s: C, 2), above Piazza Acquaverde, R. from 4, D. 5–6, omn. ½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. ISOTTA (Pl. a; F, 5), Via Roma 5–7, R. from 5, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.—HÔT. DE LA VILLE (Pl. d; D, 4), Via Carlo Alberto, R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; BRITANNIA (Pl. y; C, 2), R. from 3 fr.; MODERN HOT. (Pl. v; F, 6), R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; CONTINENTAL (Pl. 1; E, 4), R. 4–10, D. 5, omn. 1–1¼ fr.—Less pretending: HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. g; D, 5), R. 3–4, D. 4, omn. 1 fr.; HOT. SMITH (Pl. e, D, 5; Engl. landlord), R. from 2½, D. 4, omn. 1 fr., good; CENTRAL (Pl. c; F, 5), R. 2–4½ fr.; ROYAL AQUILA (Pl. k; C, 2), near the principal station, R. 3–5, D. 5, omn. ½ fr., good for passing tourists; IMPÉRIAL (Pl. im; F, 6), R. from 3½ fr.; REGINA (Pl. q; F, 6).—=Hôtels Garnis.= SPLENDIDE (Pl. x; F, 6), BAVARIA (Pl. z; F, 5), EXCELSIOR (Pl. w; E, 5), R. in all these from 3 or 4 fr. =Cafés.= _Roma_, Via Roma 15; _Milano_, Galleria Mazzini; both are also restaurants.—=Restaurants= (Italian cookery). _Trattoria del Teatro Carlo Felice_ (Pl. E, F, 5), good; _Cairo_, Via Venti Settembre 36; _Ristorante della Posta_, Galleria Mazzini, moderate, often crowded.—=Beer.= _Giardino d’Italia_ and _Peyer_, both in Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5); _Gambrinus_, Via San Sebastiano (Pl. F, 5). =Cabs.= One-horse, per drive (to the E. as far as the Bisagno, to the W. to the lighthouse) 1, at night 1½ fr.; per hr. 2 or 2½ fr.; each addit. ½ hr. 1 or 1¼ fr.; to _Nervi_ or _Pegli_ 5, there and back, with ½ hr. stay, 7½ fr.—With two horses, ½ fr. extra in each case.—Night is from 9 (in winter from 7) till sunrise.—Small packages inside cab are free; each trunk 20 c.—MOTOR CABS (taximeter) per drive of 1200 met. (⅔ M.) 1 fr. 20 c., each addit. 300 met. 20 c.; at night (10 or 8 to dawn) one-fourth extra. Trunk 25 c. =Tramways= (6 or 7 a.m. till midnight). The chief lines are: =1.= _Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2), Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), Piazza Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio), Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), and _Piazza Deferrari_ (Pl. E, 6; 10 c.).—=2.= _Piazza Principe_, Piazza Acquaverde, Via di Circonvallazione a Monte (station for Castellaccio at San Nicolò, Pl. E, 1), Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4), Piazza Corvetto, and _Piazza Deferrari_ (25 c.).—=3.= _Piazza Caricamento_ (Pl. D, 5), Piazza Principe, Via Milano (Pl. A, 2), Lighthouse (p. 117), San Pier d’Arena, Sestri Ponente, and _Pegli_ (p. 117; 55 c.).—=4.= _Piazza Raibetta_ (Pl. D, 5), Via di Circonvallazione a Mare (p. 116), and _Stazione Orientale_ (Pl. H, I, 6; 10 c.).—=5.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Piazza Manin, Via Montaldo (Pl. I, 1), and _Campo Santo_ (p. 117; 15 c.).—=6.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Via Venti Settembre, Ponte Pila (Pl. H, I, 7), and _Nervi_ (p. 117; every ¼ hr., in 50 min., 45 c.); branch to the _Lido d’Albaro_ (p. 117). =Post Office= (Pl. F, 5), Galleria Mazzini (new building in the Piazza Deferrari, Pl. E, 6; see p. 116), open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.—=Telegraph Office= (Pl. E, 6), Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Deferrari. =Steamers.= _Cunard Line_ (C. Figoli, Piazza San Marcellino 6), from New York, Gibraltar, and Genoa to Trieste; _White Star Line_ (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples, Gibraltar, and New York or Boston; _Nederland Royal Mail_ (Agenzia Olandese, Piazza Deferrari), from Southampton to Genoa, Port Said, and Batavia; _North German Lloyd_ (Leupold Bros., Via Garibaldi 5), for Algiers and Gibraltar, for Naples and Port Said, for Marseilles and Barcelona, for Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, etc.; _Hamburg-American Line_ (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples and New York, also excursion-boats; _Società Nazionale_ (Via Balbi 40), for Naples and New York (comp. R. 24); also circular tours to Cagliari, Tunis, Tripoli, Malta, Syracuse, Messina, Naples, and back to Genoa (RR. 25, 64, 27, 24); also to Palermo, Trapani, and Syracuse; to Palermo, Messina, the Piræus, Constantinople (Odessa and Batum); to Smyrna and Constantinople (RR. 27, 80); to Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Alexandria (R. 67); to Naples and Port Said (R. 67); _La Veloce_ (Via Garibaldi 2), to Naples and Teneriffe (for Brazil), and viâ Marseilles and Barcelona to Teneriffe (Colón); _Italia_ (Via Venti Settembre 34) to Teneriffe and Buenos Ayres; _Lloyd Italiano_ (Palazzo Doria, Via Andrea Doria), for Naples and New York (R. 24); _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (Piazza San Siro), for Naples, Palermo, and New York (RR. 24, 26), and for Tarragona, Gibraltar, and Buenos Ayres; _Compañía Trasatlántica_ (Giovanelli, Via Balbi, Salita Santa Brigida 2), for Barcelona, Lisbon, and Liverpool, for Port Said and Manila, and for Barcelona, Málaga, Teneriffe, and Buenos Ayres. =Bankers.= _Kirby & Le Mesurier_, Via Carlo Felice 7; _Thos. Cook & Son_, Piazza della Meridiana, cor. of Via Cairóli (Pl. E, 4); _Credito Italiano_, Via San Luca 4; _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Piazza Banchi 11 (Pl. D, 5).—MONEY CHANGERS abound near the Borsa.—BOOKSELLER. _A. Donath_, Via Luccoli 33. =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _William Keene_, Via Assarotti 11; vice-consul, _A. Turton_.—U. S. Consul-General, _J. A. Smith_, Via Venti Settembre 42; vice-consul, _J. W. Dye_. =Churches.= _English_ (_Church of the Holy Ghost_), Via Goito (Pl. G, 4; services at 8:15 and 11 a.m., occasionally also at 4 p.m.); _Presbyterian_, Via Peschiera 4 (service at 11 a.m.). =Sights.= _Museo Chiossone_ (p. 116), daily except Mon., 10–3, adm. 1 fr.; _Palazzo Bianco_ (p. 116), daily, Oct.-March 11–4, April-Sept. 10–4, Sun. and Thurs. ¼ fr., other days ½ fr., free on last Sun. of each month; _Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini_ (see below), daily 11–4, fee ½–1 fr.; _Palazzo Rosso_ (p. 116), free daily, 11–4, except on Tues., Sun., and holidays. _Genoa_, Ital. _Genŏva_, French _Gênes_, a city of 156,000 inhab., was a republic and a great naval power in the middle ages, rivalling Venice, but declined after the 16th cent.; in 1797 it became the capital of Napoleon’s ‘Ligurian Republic’, and since 1815 has belonged to the kingdom of Sardinia which is now merged in that of Italy. Next to Marseilles it is the greatest of Mediterranean seaports. The exports and imports in 1908 amounted to 6.4 million tons, and the tonnage of shipping to 14.4 millions. From the pier, either the Ponte Federico Guglielmo or the Ponte Andrea Doria (p. 113), we cross the harbour-rails to the _Palazzo Doria_ (Pl. A, B, 2), once presented by the republic to Andrea Doria (1468–1560), the famous admiral of Charles V., and enter the PIAZZA DEL PRINCIPE (Pl. B, 2; tramway, see p. 114), with its handsome bronze monument to the _Marchese Deferrari_, _Duke of Galliera_ (d. 1876), to whose generosity Genoa is partly indebted for its new quays (1877–95). The Via Andrea Doria leads hence to the E. to the PIAZZA ACQUAVERDE (Pl. B, C, 2), the square in front of the _Railway Station_, where, amid palms, rises a monument to _Columbus_, who was probably born at Genoa in 1451 (d. at Valladolid in 1506). To the S.E. from this piazza runs a narrow line of streets, the chief artery of traffic, adorned with superb late-Renaissance edifices, built chiefly by _Galeazzo Alessi_ (1512–72), named Via Balbi, Via Cairóli, and Via Garibaldi, and ending at the Piazza Fontane Marose. Several of the palaces are well worth seeing, especially for the sake of their grand staircases. No. 10, on the right side of the VIA BALBI, is the _Palazzo Reale_ (Pl. C, 3), built after 1650 for the Durazzo family, and purchased in 1817 for the royal house of Sardinia. No. 5, on the left, is the =Palazzo dell’Università= (Pl. D, 2, 3), begun by Bart. Bianco in 1623 as a Jesuit school. The *Court and the staircases are considered the finest in Genoa. Farther on, to the right, No. 4 is the _Palazzo Balbi Senárega_; No. 1, on the left, is the PALAZZO DURAZZO-PALLAVICINI (Pl. D, 3), both by Bart. Bianco. The picture-gallery in the latter (adm., see above) contains portraits by Rubens and Van Dyck, painted during their visits to Genoa. We cross the Piazza dell’Annunziata (Pl. D, 3) with the handsome baroque church of that name on the left, and the small Piazza della Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio, p. 117), and then follow the Via Cairóli (Pl. D, E, 4) to the— *VIA GARIBALDI (Pl. E, 4), which is flanked with numerous palaces. No. 13, on the left, is the =Palazzo Bianco=; No. 18, on the right, the =Palazzo Rosso=; both once belonged to the _Brignole-Sale_ family, but were bequeathed to the city by the Marchesa Brignole-Sale (d. 1889), widow of the Duca di Galliera (p. 115), and converted into the two galleries named Brignole-Sale (adm., see p. 115). Most of the other palaces were designed by Gal. Alessi. From the Piazza Fontane Marose (Pl. F, 4, 5) the short Via Carlo Felice leads to the S.W. to the PIAZZA DEFERRARI (Pl. E, 5, 6), the centre of the city and focus of most of the tramway-lines (p. 114). The ACCADÉMIA DI BELLE ARTI (Pl. E, F, 6), on the E. side of the Piazza, contains the valuable _Museo Chiossone_ (adm., see p. 115), a collection of Japanese and Chinese works of art. The busy VIA ROMA (Pl. F, 5) leads to the N.E. from the Piazza Deferrari, past (right) the _Galleria Mazzini_, to the Piazza Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5), adjoining which, on the left, on an old bastion is the _Villetta Dinegro_ (Pl. F, 4; 242 ft.; fine views), a beautiful public park. From the S.E. side of the Piazza Deferrari, where the new buildings of the _Exchange_ (Borsa) and the _Post Office_ are in progress (Pl. E, F, 6), runs the broad new VIA VENTI SETTEMBRE (Pl. F-H, 6, 7), the favourite promenade of the citizens, leading to the _Bisagno Valley_ and the _Stazione Orientate_ (p. 113). Immediately before we reach the street-viaduct we may turn to the right, cross the Piazza Ponticello (Pl. F, 6, 7), and ascend the Via Fieschi to *_Santa Maria di Carignano_ (Pl. E, 8; 172 ft.), built by Gal. Alessi. The gallery of the dome (249 steps; sacristan 25 c.) is a splendid point of view. The Via Nino Bixio and Via Corsica (Pl. E, F, 8, 9) lead thence to the— *=Via di Circonvallazione a Mare=, skirting the coast on the site of the old town-ramparts, named Via Odone and Corso Aurelio Saffi (Pl. E-H, 9, 10; tramway No. 4, see p. 114). From the S.W. angle of the Piazza Deferrari the short Via Sellai leads to the PIAZZA UMBERTO PRIMO (Pl. E, 6). On its N. side rises the old _Palazzo Ducale_, or palace of the doges (telegraph-office), approached by a handsome flight of steps. On the S.E. side is the ornate Jesuit church of _Sant’ Ambrogio_, containing a Presentation in the Temple and the Miracles of St. Ignatius by _Rubens_. From the Piazza Umberto Primo the busy VIA SAN LORENZO leads to the N.W., past the =Cathedral= (Pl. E, 5, 6; _San Lorenzo_), dating from the 12–17th cent. (in the left aisle the fine early-Renaissance chapel of San Giovanni Battista), back to the— HARBOUR. Following the tramway to the right to the Piazza Raibetta, we observe on the left, between that piazza and the Piazza Caricamento, the Gothic _Palazzo di San Giorgio_, once the seat of the great merchants’ bank of that name. Beyond the Piazza Caricamento the noisy Via Carlo Alberto (Pl. D, C, 4–2) leads to the N. past the _Darsena_, once the naval harbour, to the Piazza Principe and to the piers, affording a glimpse at the harbour traffic. * * * * * From the Piazza della Zecca (p. 116) a FUNICULAR TRAMWAY (50 c.) ascends every 10 min. to _San Nicolò_ (Pl. E, 1; change cars) and *=Castellaccio=, loftily situated. At the terminus (about 1025 ft.; Ristorante Beregardo, déj. 2½, D. 4 fr., commended) there is a splendid view of the Bisagno Valley with the Campo Santo (see below). About ½ M. to the N.W. rises the old fort of _Castellaccio_ (1254 ft.), which commands an admirable survey of Genoa and the coast from Savona (p. 113) to the headland of Portofino (p. 134). On the rocky _Capo del Faro_, between Genoa and San Pier d’Arena, rises the _Lanterna_, a great =Lighthouse=, 230 ft. high, from the foot of which we obtain another extensive *View. Tramway as far as the tunnel (No. 3; p. 114). From the Piazza Deferrari a tramway (No. 5) leads by the Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4) to the N.E. to the =Campo Santo= or _Cimitero di Staglieno_; which rises above the Val Bisagno on the N. bank.—We may take the tramway or a motor-omnibus also to the _Lido d’Albáro_, a popular resort and sea-bathing place below the road to Sturla and Nervi. Favourite excursions from Genoa are (tramways Nos. 6 and 3) to =Nervi=, 7½ M. to the E., on the Pisa line, and to =Pegli=, 6¼ M. to the W., on the Ventimiglia line. Nervi has a beautiful marine parade, and at Pegli is the _Villa Pallavicini_. (The entrance of the villa is immediately to the left of the exit from the rail. station; adm. on week-days except Frid. and festivals, 10–3; on Sun. and holidays 9–2; fee 1 fr.)—A superb view is obtained from the =Portofino-Kulm= (1477 ft.; Hôt.-Restaur., déj. 5, D. 7 fr.), on the Monte di Portofino (p. 134). Motor-omn. direct from Genoa, Piazza Deferrari; also 4 times daily from Recco station, 13 M. to the E., on the Pisa line. See also _Baedeker’s Northern Italy_. b. Viâ Algiers. 1086 M. _North German Lloyd_ on alternate Saturdays, in 3 days (to Algiers in 25 hrs., fare 66 or 44 marks; thence to Genoa 33 hrs., fare 77 or 55 marks). The _Hamburg-American_ and the _Austrian Lloyd_ steamers sometimes ply between Gibraltar and Algiers. The _Navigation Mixte_ usually sends steamers from Gibraltar to Oran (hence to Algiers by railway). Steamers of the _German Levant Line_ and others also are available as far as Algiers.—Agents at Gibraltar, see p. 53; at Algiers, p. 219; at Genoa, p. 114. See also ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’. The vessel steers to the E. from Gibraltar, between the Spanish coast, which remains in sight as far as the _Cabo de Gata_ (comp. R. 15 a), and the flat volcanic island of _Alborán_ (48 ft.), the ancient _Drinaupa_, now belonging to Spain. The distant _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49) peeps here and there above the horizon. Off _Cape Ivi_ (lighthouse), beyond the mouth of the _Chélif_ (p. 208), we sight the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 169) on the Algerian coast. We then pass the very prominent _Cape Ténès_ (p. 209) and, beyond _Cherchell_ (p. 244), the massive _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242), near which we survey the beautiful _Bay of Castiglione_ (p. 237), backed by the hills of _Sahel_ and extending to _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235). By _Râs Acrata_ (p. 237) we near the coast, pass the lighthouse on the low _Cape Caxine_ (p. 237) and the picturesque cliffs of _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), then _St. Eugène_ (p. 236) and the church of _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_ (p. 236), and enter the harbour of =Algiers= (p. 217). Leaving Algiers for Genoa the vessel steers to the N.N.E., affording a fine parting view of the _Bay of Algiers_ and the coast as far as _Cape Bengut_ (p. 127). _Corsica_ (p. 143) is visible in clear weather only. We near the _Riviera di Ponente_ off _Porto Maurizio_ (p. 113) and soon enter the harbour of _Genoa_ (comp. p. 113). 16. From Gibraltar to Naples. 1118 M. _Cunard Line_ (from New York) and _White Star_ (from New York or Boston), each two or three times a month, in 3 days (fare 5_l._ 10_s._); _Orient Royal_ (from London), fortnightly; _North German Lloyd_ (from New York or Southampton), three or four times a month (120 or 88 marks); _Hamburg-American Line_ (from New York), once or twice a month. For _Gibraltar_, and the first part of the voyage, comp. p. 52 and R. 15 a. Astern appears the majestic _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49). Steering to the E.N.E., we sometimes see the Algerian coast to the S., from _Cape Ténès_ (p. 209) to the _Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221) and the hills of Great Kabylia (p. 252). After many hours’ steaming we next sight the uninhabited rocky islet of _Il Toro_, off the S.W. coast of Sardinia, and the _Golfo di Palmas_ (p. 129), between the island of _San Antioco_ and the bold _Cape Teulada_, the ancient _Chersonesus Promontorium_, the southmost point of Sardinia. We pass the _Isola Rossa Bay_ at some distance; then _Cape Spartivento_ (lighthouse), at the S. end of the broad _Bay of Cagliari_ (p. 144), which is only distinguishable in clear weather, and the granitic _Isola dei Cavoli_ (lighthouse), lying off _Cape Carbonara_ (p. 144). The Sardinian coast now rapidly disappears. The steamer at length nears the _Bocca Grande_, 15 M. in width, the chief entrance to the *_Bay of Naples_ (p. 135), between the islands of _Ischia_ (left) and _Capri_ (right), with _Vesuvius_ in the distance. The S.W. point of Ischia is the picturesque _Punta Imperatore_ (lighthouse). We steer past the S. side of the island, about 3 M. from the _Punta Sant’ Angelo_ and the _Punta San Pancrazio_, then past the island of _Procida_ and the hill of _Posilipo_, into the harbour of _Naples_ (p. 135). From Naples to _Genoa_, see R. 24. [Illustration: MARSEILLE] 17. From (_Lisbon_) Tangier, and from Gibraltar, to Marseilles. FROM LISBON TO TANGIER AND (1150 M.) MARSEILLES (Naples, and Port Said) there are regular steamboat services (from Tangier or Gibraltar to Marseilles in 3 days) by the _German East African Line_ (E. circular tour), once in three weeks, and the _Rotterdam Lloyd_, fortnightly.—FROM GIBRALTAR TO MARSEILLES there are the _Peninsular & Oriental_, the _Orient Royal_, and other lines.—Steamboat-agents at Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and Marseilles, see pp. 8, 98, 53, 120. From Lisbon to the Straits of _Gibraltar_, comp. p. 5; _Tangier_, p. 98; _Gibraltar_, p. 52. The steamer skirts the Spanish coast from Gibraltar to _Iviza_ (p. 112). The direct route to Marseilles is through the _Balearic Sea_ (p. 112) and the _Gulf of Lions_, where storms often prevail; but when the mistral, or N. wind, blows a more westerly course is chosen, past the volcanic _Columbretes_ islets (lighthouse) and along the coast of _Catalonia_. At length, to the S.E. of the _Rhone Delta_, and flanked with bare limestone hills, we sight the _Bay of Marseilles_, bounded by the _Cap Couronne_, on the left, and the _Cap Croisette_, on the right. We pass the island of _Planier_ (lighthouse) and the islands of _Ratonneau_, _Pomègue_, and _If_, and obtain a fine view of the church of _Notre Dame de la Garde_ (p. 122) overlooking the city. The vessels usually steer through the _Avant-Port Nord_ and the large new _Bassin National_ into the _Bassin de la Gare Maritime_. =Marseilles.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The North German Lloyd and German East African steamers anchor in the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1). Those of the Générale Transatlantique Co. and Messageries Maritimes start from the Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3). Most of the great British lines (P. & O., Orient Royal, Bibby, British India, etc.) have their own berths, as to which careful inquiry should be made. Note that most of these are a long way from the principal railway-station (1–1½ M.). =Railway Stations.= The _Gare St. Charles_ (Pl. F, 2), the main station, is the only one for through-passenger traffic. See the French _Indicateur_ as to trains, several of which run in winter only; others correspond with the P. & O. and other steamers for Egypt, India, Australia, etc. =Hotels= (mostly in noisy situations). *REGINA (Pl. f; D, 3), Place Sadi-Carnot; *LOUVRE & DE LA PAIX (Pl. a; E, 4), *NOAILLES & MÉTROPOLE (Pl. c; E, 4), and GRAND (Pl. b; F, 4), all in the Rue Noailles; BRISTOL (Pl. w; E, 4), Rue Cannebière, new. These five are of the first class (R. from 4 or 5, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 5–6 fr.).—PETIT-LOUVRE (Pl. d; E, 4), Rue Cannebière 16; GENÈVE (Pl. m; D, 4), Rue des Templiers 3, R. from 3½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., well spoken of; CASTILLE & LUXEMBOURG (Pl. e; E, 5), Rue St. Ferréol, R. from 3, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; DES PHOCÉENS (Pl. i; E, 4), Rue Thubaneau 4, R. from 3, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., good; CONTINENTAL (Pl. j; D, 4), Rue Beauvau 6, R. from 2½, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Near the Railway Station: TERMINUS HOTEL (Pl. g; F, 2), R. 5–10 fr.; *RUSSIE & ANGLETERRE, Boul. d’Athènes 31 (Pl. E, 3), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; BORDEAUX & ORIENT (Pl. k; E, 3), same boulevard, No. 11, R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—=Hôtels Garnis= (R. 3–4, B. 1½ fr.): GR. NOUVEL HÔTEL (Pl. u; F, 4), Boul. du Musée 10, good; MODERN HOTEL (Pl. s; D, 4), Rue Cannebière 50; RICHE ET DU VINGTIÈME SIÈCLE (Pl. v; E, 4), same street, No. 1. =Restaurants.= *_La Réserve_, Palace Hotel, Chemin de la Corniche, of the first class.—*_Isnard_, Hôt. des Phocéens (p. 119); _de Provence_, Cours Belsunce 12, good.—=Cafés=, best in Rue Cannebière and Rue Noailles.—_Brasserie de l’Univers_, at the Hotel Bristol (p. 119); _Strasbourg_, Place de la Bourse 11. =Cabs= (_voitures de place_, same fares by day or night). In the inner city, to the Traverse de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2) in the N., and to Boul. de la Corderie and Boul. Notre Dame in the S.W.: _one-horse carriage_ (2 seats) per drive, 1½, per hour 2½ fr.; _two-horse carr._ (4 seats) 2 or 3 fr.; trunk 25 c. per drive, 50 c. per hour.—As overcharges are frequent, the tariff should be asked for.—=Motor Cabs= (taximeters for 3 pers.), 1 fr. for the first 800 metres (ca. ½ M.), 20 c. each addit. 400 m.; 3 fr. per hour. =Tramways= (in the town, 10 c.; no transfer tickets). Among the chief are: from _Place de la Joliette_ (Pl. C, 2) to _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D, 7; Notre Dame de la Garde, p. 122); from _Quai de la Joliette_ to the _Zoological Garden_ (Pl. H, 2; Palais de Longchamp, p. 122); from _Zoological Garden_ to Boul. Notre Dame (Pl. D, 6, 7; lift to Notre Dame de la Garde) and _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D, 7); from the _Cours St. Louis_ (Pl. E, 4) viâ the Prado (p. 122), the Corniche (p. 122), and Endoume, back to the _Cours St. Louis_ (15 c.). =Transporter Bridge= (_Pont Transbordeur_; Pl. B, 4, 5; p. 121), between Quai de la Tourette and Boul. du Pharo, in 2 min. (5 c.). =Steamboat Lines.= _Peninsular & Oriental_ (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert 18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 67); _Orient Royal_ (Worms & Co., Rue Grignan 28), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 23, 67); _North German Lloyd_ (W. Carr, Rue Beauvau 16), to Goletta (Tunis) and Alexandria, to Naples and Alexandria, also to Genoa, Naples, Catania, the Piræus, Constantinople, etc. (RR. 22, 23, 24, 67, 77, 80); _German East African_ (W. Carr), from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 23, 67); _Bibby_ (Watson & Parker, Rue Beauvau 8), from Liverpool to Marseilles, Port Said, etc. (R. 67); _British India_ (G. Budd, Rue Beauvau 8), from Port Said to Genoa, Marseilles, and London; _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (Ruys & Co., Rue de la République 29), to Port Said (R. 67); _Messageries Maritimes_ (Place Sadi-Carnot 3), to Naples, Piræus, Constantinople, and Beirut (RR. 77, 75), also to Constantinople, Odessa, and Batum (RR. 83, 85), also to Alexandria, Port Said, and Beirut (RR. 67, 72); _Générale Transatlantique_ (Rue Noailles 15), to Oran and Cartagena (RR. 19, 18), also to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), also to Tunis and Malta (R. 21, 63), and to Sfax and Susa (RR. 21, 64); _Transports Maritimes_ (Rue de la République 70), to Gibraltar and Madeira (R. 3), to Oran (R. 19), to Algiers, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), and to Tunis (Susa; RR. 22, 64); _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._, Rue Cannebière 54), to Oran (R. 19), to Tangier viâ Oran (RR. 19, 18), to Algiers and Philippeville (R. 20), to Tunis, Sfax, and Tripoli (RR. 21, 64), and to Palermo (RR. 21, 26); _Chargeurs Réunis_ (Worms & Co., see above), from Dunkirk to Marseilles, Genoa, and Naples (for E. Indies, S. America, etc.); _Fraissinet & Co._ (Place de la Bourse 6), to Ajaccio and Bastia (and Leghorn); _N. Paquet & Co._ (Place Sadi-Carnot 4), to Oran (if required), Tangier, and the Moroccan ocean-coast (R. 14); _Compañía Mallorquina_, to Palma (Majorca). =Post & Telegraph Office.= _Hôtel des Postes_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue Colbert; branches at the railway-station (p. 119), at the Bourse (Pl. D, E, 4), etc. =Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue Noailles 11 bis; _Lubin_, Rue des Feuillants 14.—=Banks.= _Banque de France_ (Pl. E, 6), Place Estrangin-Pastré; _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue St. Ferréol 25 (Pl. E, 4, 5). =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _M. C. Gurney_, Rue des Princes 8; vice-consuls, _T. Broadwood_, _F. J. Hamling_.—U. S. Consul-General, _A. Gaulin_, Cours Pierre-Puget 10; vice-consul, _P. H. Cram_. =English Church=, Rue de Bellois 4; services at 10.30 and 3.30. _Marseilles_, Fr. _Marseille_, the second-largest city in France, with 517,500 inhab., the _Massalia_ of the Greeks and _Massilia_ of the Romans, was founded by Greeks from Phocæa (p. 530) in Asia Minor about 600 B. C., and soon became one of the greatest seaports on the Mediterranean. During the Roman period it vied with Athens as a seat of Greek culture; in the middle ages it belonged to the kingdom of Arelate, and later to the county of Provence, and in 1481 it was at length annexed to France. Being situated at the mouth of the great and time-honoured route through the Rhone Valley to N.W. Europe, it is the most important of French and of all Mediterranean seaports. The total exports and imports are estimated at 2926 million francs, and nearly 17 million tons of shipping enter and clear annually. The city is now almost entirely modern and destitute of historical memorials. From the _Bassin du Lazaret_ (Pl. B, 1) and _Bassin de la Joliette_ (Pl. B, 2, 3), the southmost of the docks constructed since 1850 to the N.W. of the old town, we follow the Quai de la Joliette to the— *=Cathedral= (Pl. B, C, 3; _Ste. Marie Majeure_ or _La Major_), situated on a terrace. This is one of the largest and finest churches of the 19th cent.; it was built by _Vaudoyer_, in a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque style, in 1852–93. Adjacent is the _Old Cathedral of St. Lazare_, which is shown by the sacristan of the new church. From the Place de la Major the Esplanade de la Tourette leads to the S. to the *=Vieux Port= (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), the _Lakydon_ of the Phocæans, a deeply indented creek, where smaller craft only are now berthed. The entrance to it is guarded by the old forts of _Grasse-Tilly_ and _Entrecasteaux_. Just inside the entrance the harbour is crossed by the _Pont Transbordeur_ or _Transporter Bridge_ (p. 120); for the sake of the view we may ascend either to the trolley-way (buffet-restaurant) or to the top of the N. tower (steps up and down 50 c.; lift up 60, up and down 75 c.). On the N. side of the Quai du Port (Pl. C, D, 4), the scene of motley popular traffic (pickpockets not uncommon), lies the OLD TOWN, with its narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by the lower classes, including numerous Italians of whom the city contains about 100,000. This quay leads past the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. C, 4), an interesting building of the 17th cent., to the E. end of the Vieux Port, where begins the— *RUE CANNEBIÈRE (Pl. D, E, 4), which for ages has been the chief boast of the city. Here, on the left, is the _Bourse_ (Pl. E, 4), erected by Coste in 1852–60. This street, prolonged by the Rue Noailles, the Allées de Meilhan, etc., intersects the city from S.W. to N.E., and at the COURS ST. LOUIS (Pl. E, 4), the chief centre of traffic, it is crossed by a straight line of streets running from N.W. to S.E., the Cours Belsunce, Rue de Rome, and Promenade du Prado, to the Rond Point (p. 122), being in all nearly 3 M. long. The Rue Noailles (Pl. E, 4), from the end of which the Boulevard Dugommier ascends to the railway-station, and the pretty Allées de Meilhan (Pl. F, 4) lead to the modern-Gothic church of _St. Vincent de Paul_ (Pl. F, 3), with its two towers commanding a great part of the city. A little to the left is the Cours du Chapitre, leading into the Boulevard Longchamp (Pl. G, H, 3, 2), a street ascending steeply to the *=Palais de Longchamp= (Pl. H, 2). This imposing Renaissance edifice was designed by _Espérandieu_, the architect (1862–9). The Ionic colonnade, with a lofty triumphal arch in the centre, where a picturesque cascade has been introduced, is flanked with two wings, the right containing the _Natural History Museum_, and the left the _Museum of Fine Art_ (adm. daily except Mon. and Frid., 8–12 and 2–5 or in winter 9–12 and 2–4; closed 20th–31st Jan. and 20th–31st July). The groundfloor contains sculptures. In the centre is the principal hall. The room on the left contains works by the Marseillais master _Pierre Puget_ (1622–94); in that on the right is a model of the Monument to the Dead in Père Lachaise at Paris, by _Bartholomé_. The staircase is adorned with a wall-painting by _Puvis de Chavannes_ (1869). On the first floor is the picture-gallery. Among the older pictures in the central room are: 361. _Nattier_, Duchesse de Châteauroux; 788. _Pietro Perugino_, Holy Family; 914. _Rubens_, Boar-hunt (about 1615). In the modern department, in the room on the left: 430. _J. Fr. Millet_, Mother and child (1860). The main streets of the S. quarter of the town are the Rue de Rome, which begins at the Cours St. Louis (p. 121), and a little to the W. of it the handsome Cours Pierre-Puget (Pl. E, D, 5, 6), ending in the Promenade of that name. A little to the S., on a bold rock of white limestone, is enthroned the church of *_Notre Dame de la Garde_ (Pl. D, 7; 532 ft.), a great landmark for mariners, where we obtain the finest view of the city and its environs. Lift (Ascenseur; Pl. D, 7) from the Rue Cherchell (up 60, down 30, return 80 c.; on Sun. and before 9 a.m., 40, 20, or 50 c.). On a fine day the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the *=Chemin de la Corniche= (comp. Pl. A, 6; tramway, p. 120). From Notre Dame de la Garde it may be reached direct in about 40 min. by the Chemin du Roucas-Blanc. This road, partly hewn in the rock, and shadeless, affords fine views. It ends, near the _Château Borély_, which stands in a park and now contains the Musée d’Archéologie, at the— PROMENADE DU PRADO, a favourite resort of the Marseillais, planted with plane-trees. A gay throng may be seen here on Sunday afternoons and every fine evening. We may return thence to the town by the Rond Point du Prado. See also _Baedeker’s Southern France_. From Marseilles to _Naples_, see R. 23. 18. From Tangier and Cartagena to Oran. FROM TANGIER TO ORAN (301 M.). Mail steamers of the _Navigation Mixte_, every Wed. afternoon, in 52½ hrs. (fares, without food, 80 and 60 fr.), viâ Melilla and Nemours (returning viâ Beni-Saf, Nemours, Melilla, and Tetuán); also cargo-steamers viâ Málaga, Melilla, and Nemours, in 3–4 days, leaving Tangier every second Tuesday (Málaga Wed.). Also steamers of the _Hungarian Adria_ (fare, without food, 30 fr.). Agents at Tangier, see p. 98; at Málaga, p. 89; at Oran, p. 176. FROM CARTAGENA TO ORAN (132 M.). _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ every Tues. in 9 hrs. (fares, without food, 50 and 35 fr.; pier-dues at Cartagena 3 or 2 fr.; agent J. M. Pelegrin, Plaza de la Aduana 1; at Oran, p. 176). This is the shortest sea-route to Algiers and is recommended to those who are bad sailors. Passport necessary. Steering from _Tangier_ (p. 98) to the E.N.E. through the _Straits of Gibraltar_, the vessel passes _Cape Malabata_ (p. 57), _Cape Alboasa_, and the fine shore of the _Cala Grande_, to which the _Rio de las Ostras_ descends from the _Sierra San Simonito_, a branch of the _Anjera Mts._ (p. 103). In the little bay on the E. side of the _Punta Alcázar_, scarcely visible from the sea, lie the ruins of _Ksar es-Serîr_, a small seaport founded by Yakûb ibn Yûsuf (p. 61), which prospered in the later middle ages, and belonged to the Portuguese from 1448 to 1540. Off _Cape Ciris_ (p. 5) the steamer nears the abrupt slopes of the _Sierra Bullones_ (p. 103) and then passes the _Isla del Peregil_ (243 ft.), which is overgrown with underwood and contains a large grotto (_Grotta de las Palomas_, visited from Ceuta). Beyond _Cape Leona_ and the _Bay of Benzus_ the region of _Ceuta_ (p. 103) is reached. Fine view of the bay of Algeciras (p. 56) and the rock of Gibraltar to the N. After passing the bay of Ceuta and the N. and E. headlands of the peninsula of _Almina_ (p. 103), the _Punta Santa Catalina_ (p. 5) and the _Punta de la Almina_ (lighthouse), we obtain an admirable view of the Moroccan coast, extending from the Sierra Bullones (p. 103) to the finely shaped _Jebel Beni Hassan_. In the centre, between _Cabo Negro_ (p. 103) and _Cabo Mazari_, is the deep depression of the plain of _Tetuán_ (p. 102), where the steamers of the Navigation Mixte call on their voyage to Tangier only. The vessel now steers to the E.S.E. towards Cape Tres Forcas, quite apart from the _Rîf Coast_, a hill-region inhabited by the _Ruâfa_ (sing. _Rîfi_) and still forming part of the Blad es-Siba (p. 96). It lies between the _Wâd Waringa_, the river bounding the province of Tetuán, and Cape Tres Forcas. In the bay of Alhucemas rise the rocky islets of _Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera_ and _Islas de Alhucema_, with two Spanish ‘presidios’. The _Betoya_, the stretch of coast with its numerous creeks between _Cape Quilates_, on the E. side of the Alhucemas Bay, and Cape Tres Forcas, was for centuries the favourite haunt of the Rîf pirates (p. 96). Beyond the wedge-like _Cape Tres Forcas_, the ancient _Sestiaria Promontorium_ (Arabic _Râs Wark_), jutting out 12½ M. seaward, we sight the long coast-line of the _Bay of Melilla_, into which the steamers from Málaga, passing some 20 M. to the W. of the island of _Alborán_ (p. 117), steer direct. =Melilla= (Hot. de Asia, Fonda la Africana, both at the harbour and plain), or _Melila_, a town of 9000 inhab., the only Mediterranean port on the Morocco coast besides Ceuta and Tetuán lies most picturesquely on the spurs of _Monte Melila_ or _Caramu_ (3235 ft.), a little to the N. of the marshy, fever-stricken mouth of the _Rio del Oro_. Its site is probably that of the ancient _Rusaddir_ (p. 95), where ended the great Roman military road, about 1430 M. long, which connected Carthage with Mauretania. Melilla is the oldest Spanish possession in Morocco, having been captured in 1496. In 1774 it was unsuccessfully besieged by a Moroccan army, and in 1893 it resisted an attack by the Berbers of the Rîf. Being a free port, it carries on a brisk trade with the coast-towns of the Algerian province of Oran, and many Moroccans from the interior embark here on their way to the harvesting in Algeria. The larger steamers anchor in the roads, which are tolerably sheltered from the W. winds only (landing or embarkation 50 c.). New harbour-works, however, are now under construction. The drinking-water of Melilla is not good. Melilla consists of the small and tidy new town which has been built near the harbour since 1893 and contains a covered market, the shops of the Spanish-Jewish and Moorish tradesmen, and the promenade, and of the remarkably clean old town, enclosed by lofty walls, and occupying the nearly square plateau of a rocky headland. From projecting parts of the town-wall a fine view is obtained of the _Fort Rosario_, which is separated from the old town by the small _Galápago Bay_, and of the broad bay extending to the Chafarinas Islands (see below); in the background, beyond the _Mar Chica_ or _Lago de Puerto Nuevo_ (Arabic _Sebkha Bu-Erg_), a shallow lake 13 M. long, appears the lofty chain of _Jebel Kebdana_ with the _Monte de Tessan_ (3275 ft.). Continuing our VOYAGE, we pass the _Chafarinas Islands_ (French _Iles Zafarines_), occupied by the Spanish since 1848, which lie off the _Cabo del Agua_ and form the only safe harbour on this coast as far as Oran. On the _Isla Isabel Segunda_, the central island, rises a lighthouse visible at a distance of 20 M. We pass the mouth of the _Mulûya_ (p. 93), the ancient _Malucha_ (or _Muluchath_), which separated the provinces of Mauretania Tingitana and Mauretania Cæsariensis (p. 244), and was in the middle ages the boundary between the kingdoms of Fez and Tlemcen (p. 188). Beyond it, rising above the thickly peopled coast-plain of _Tazagraret_, rises the chain of _Jebel Beni Snassen_ (p. 197), which belongs geologically to the Algerian Tell Atlas (p. 169). The political frontier between Morocco and Algeria is formed by the brook _Oued Kiss_ or _Adjeroud_ (comp. p. 169), near which, on the little _Baie d’Adjeroud_, and not far from _Cape Milonia_, lies the French seaport of _Port-Say_ or _Adjeroud_. In calm weather the steamers call at the bay of =Nemours= (p. 198), enclosed by the spurs of the _Traras Mts._ (p. 198; landing or embarkation 1 fr.). They then pass _Cape Torsa_ and _Cape Noé_, where the plateau of _Mont Tadjera_ (2592 ft.) is sighted, and steer to the N.E. towards Cape Figalo, at some distance from the little port of _Honeïn_ (here the iron-ore of _Rhar el-Maden_ is exported), the lighthouse on the island of _Rachgoun_ (opposite the mouth of the _Tafna_, p. 185), and the port of _Beni-Saf_ (p. 185). To the N.E., beyond _Cape Figalo_, appear the _Isles Habibas_ (lighthouse), surrounded by reefs, and then, beyond _Cape Lindless_, the uninhabited little _Ile Plane_. Beyond _Cape Falcon_ (lighthouse; p. 184) we survey the broad _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126), as far as the _Pointe de l’Aiguille_. Immediately to the right, in the fertile _Plaine des Andalouses_, lies the village of _Aïn et-Turk_ (p. 184); then, beyond the spurs of the _Jebel Santon_, the harbour of _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), with a fort and lighthouse. Entrance to the harbour of _Oran_, comp. p. 175. * * * * * =Cartagena= (Hot. de Francia y de Paris, Calle de Osuna and Plaza de la Aduana; Hot. Ramos, Plaza de Prefumo 8; Brit, vice-cons. J. C. Gray; U. S. cons. agent, A. J. Marks; pop. 41,300), founded by Hasdrubal in 221 B.C., the best natural harbour on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, is now the chief harbour of the Spanish navy. (It is reached by express from Madrid in 14 hrs.; sleeping-car on Mon., Wed., and Frid., 21 p. 25 c. extra.) The railway-station lies to the N.E. of the town, not far from Muelle de Alfonso Duodecimo, the quay, where the steamers are berthed. A charming view of the town and the bay is obtained from the _Castillo de la Concepción_ (230 ft.), a ruined castle on a hill. The entrance to the inner harbour, which is closed by the _Dique de la Curra_ (lighthouse), is guarded by two forts situated on bold volcanic rocks, the _Castillo de las Galeras_ (656 ft.) on the W., and the _Castillo de San Julián_ on the E. (919 ft.). The outer bay is protected on the S.E. by the little island of _Escombrera_, the ancient _Scombraria_. The Oran steamboats, soon after leaving Cartagena, steer due S., affording a retrospect of the lighthouses of _Cabo Tiñoso_ to the W. and _Cape Palos_ (p. 112) to the E., and they usually enter the _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126) before dawn. 19. From Marseilles to Oran. 615 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Oran, p. 176). _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_, _rapide_ on Thurs. and Sat. aft. (in reverse direction Tues. and Thurs.), in 41 hrs., fare 81 or 59 fr.; _Transports Maritimes_, Tues. (returning Sat.), in 38 hrs., 75 or 55 fr.; cargo-boat Frid. (returning Tues.), in 46 hrs., 60 or 40 fr.; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), Wed. (returning Sat.), in 54 hrs., 60 or 40 fr. Travellers in S. France may take a steamer of the _Navigation Mixte_ from _Cette_ (a seaport 90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Porte Vendres and Oran (Thurs. night), in 45 hrs., fare 90 or 65 fr. _Marseilles_ and its harbour, see p. 119. Steering out into the _Gulf of Lions_ and the _Balearic Sea_, the steamers at first either follow the same course as those to Gibraltar (R. 17), or a more easterly course, past _Majorca_ and _Dragonera_ (p. 112), towards the rock-bound strait between _Iviza_ (p. 112) and the flat island of _Formentera_, the southmost of the Balearic group. In passing we obtain a fine view of the town of _Iviza_, with its old castle and loftily situated cathedral (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal). Nearing the Algerian coast, we first sight the range of hills culminating in _Jebel Orouze_ (p. 199), which separates the bays of Arzew (p. 199) and Oran. Entering the outer *_Gulf of Oran_, we survey its full extent from the _Pointe de l’Aiguille_ to _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264). On the left, rises the curiously shaped _Jebel Kahar_ or _Montagne des Lions_ (p. 184). In the foreground, in the inner bay bounded by _Pointe Canastel_ and the headland of _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), lies the town of _Oran_, with the old fort of _Santa Cruz_ rising high above it (p. 175). 20. Prom Marseilles to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona. STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Algiers, p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Bona, p. 309). =1.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from Marseilles to Algiers (463 M.), _rapide_ mail-steamers on Sun., Tues., Wed., and Frid. at noon (returning Sun., Tues., Thurs., Frid. at noon), in 26½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Bougie (455 M.), Tues. noon (returning Sat. evening), in 37½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Philippeville (455 M.), Sat. noon (returning Frid. noon), in 30 hrs.; from Marseilles to Bona (462 M.), Tues. aft. (returning Tues. night), in 31 hrs.; fares by the mail-steamers to Algiers 96 or 69 fr.; for the other three routes 81 or 59 fr.—=2.= _Transports Maritimes_, from Marseilles to Algiers (and back), Wed. and Sat. aft., in 35 hrs., fare 70 or 45 fr.; to Philippeville (Bougie), Sat. aft. (returning Wed. noon) in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Bona, Mon. (returning Thurs.) aft., in 37 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), from Marseilles to Algiers, _rapide_ on Thurs. noon (returning Sat. noon), in 32 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.; _direct_ cargo-boat on Mon. aft. (returning Frid. noon), in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Philippeville (Bona), mail-steamer on Thurs. noon (returning Mon. noon), in 33 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr. Cheap steamers to Algiers are the cargo-boats of _Caillol & Duvillard_ (50 or 30 fr.) and of _Prosper Durand_ (40 or 25 fr.). Less frequented routes are those of the _Navigation Mixte_ from Cette (90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Port Vendres and Algiers (Sat. night; 42 hrs.; 90 or 65 fr.); the Spanish _Compañía Mallorquina_ (p. 120) from Marseilles and Barcelona to Palma and Algiers (twice monthly; passport necessary); and the _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ (cargo-boats), between Ajaccio and Bona (Thurs. evening; in 30–38 hrs.; 60 or 50 fr.). _Marseilles_, see p. 119. The ALGIERS steamer usually passes close to the E. side of the island of _Minorca_, the eastmost of the Balearic group, where, in daylight, the deeply indented natural harbour of _Mahon_, the chief town, specially attracts attention. When the sea is rough the course is sometimes more westerly, past _Cape Minorca_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the island, while inland on the flat coast lies the town of _Ciudadela_; the vessel then passes at some distance from the _Cabo de Pera_ (lighthouse), and from the hilly S.E. coast of _Majorca_, which is famed for its stalactite caverns (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal). At length, in clear weather, we obtain a glorious *View of the Algerian coast, from the hills of _Cape Bengut_ (lighthouse) to the E., and the _Jurjura Chain_ and the _Tell Atlas_ to the S.E., both snow-clad in winter, to the wooded hill-country of _Sahel_, culminating in _Mont Bouzaréah_, and _Cape Caxine_ (lighthouse) to the W. We now enter the fine *_Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221), bounded by _Cape Matifou_ (lighthouse) on the N.E. and the cliffs of the _Pointe Pescade_ on the N.W., and survey its whole expanse. To the left, in the _Mitidja Plain_, between Cape Matifou and the sand-hills at the mouth of the Harrach, lies _Fort-de-l’Eau_, a sea-bathing place; beyond the Harrach, on the hill, stands the church of _Kouba_; farther along the coast, among the houses of _Hussein-Dey_ and _Belcourt_, lies the _Jardin d’Essai_, backed by the gardens of _Mustapha-Supérieur_; behind the harbour of Algiers rises the high terrace-wall of the boulevards; then, above the new town, the white houses and lanes of the Kasba on the spurs of the hill crowned with the _Fort l’Empereur_; lastly, on the slope of the Bouzaréah hill, between the N.W. suburbs _Bab el-Oued_ and _St. Eugène_, appears _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_, the mariners’ church.—Arrival in the harbour, see p. 217. * * * * * On the voyage from Marseilles to BOUGIE the course is more easterly, out of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length compensated for near the Algerian coast by an imposing *View of the mountains of _Kabylia_, which after a snowfall in winter have quite an Alpine charm. To the W., between _Cape Sigli_ and _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264) lies the abrupt and almost uninhabited coast of _Great Kabylia_, overtopped by the lofty _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262). To the S., behind the fine curved outline of the _Gulf of Bougie_ (p. 130), and beyond the plain of the _Soumane Valley_, rise the heights of _Little Kabylia_, with the deep depression of the _Agrioun Valley_, and, to the S.E., the serrated range of _Jebel Tababor_ (6460 ft.). To the E., beyond _Cape Cavallo_, stretches the hill-region of _Djidjelli_. In the N.E. angle of the bay, on the S. slope of the _Jebel Gouraya_, but long concealed by the three spurs of that mountain (Cape Carbon, p. 264, _Cape Noir_, and _Cape Bouak_, with its lighthouse), lies most picturesquely the quiet seaport of _Bougie_, embosomed in luxuriant evergreen vegetation (p. 262). The crossing to PHILIPPEVILLE is specially recommended to travellers bound for Biskra direct, as they thus avoid the long railway journey from Algiers. The broad _Gulf of Stora_, with its numerous headlands and creeks and its beautiful wooded hills, presents a charming picture, especially in spring. In the background, in a pleasant creek, lies _Philippeville_ (p. 304). In passing through the outer harbour we obtain a good view of the town. On the voyage to BONA the first land sighted on the Algerian coast is the lofty _Mount Edough_ (3307 ft.; p. 169), the spurs of which extend to the N.W. to the _Cap de Fer_ (p. 131). The steamers then enter the _Gulf of Bona_, bounded on the W. by the _Cap de Garde_ (lighthouse), the N.E. spur of Mt. Edough, and on the E. by _Cape Rosa_ (p. 131). On the S. margin of the bay, above the marshy alluvial plain of the _Seybouse_ and the _Oued Mafrag_, rise the peaks of the _Tell Atlas_. On the W. side of the gulf, between the spurs of the Edough, lies _Bona_ (p. 309), one of the most important and most beautiful seaports of Barbary, with rich verdure all around. Before entering the grand harbour, commanded by the hill of the Kasba, we view the _Corniche Road_ (p. 311), while on the low hill of _Hippo_, to the S. of the town, rises the church of _St. Augustine_ (p. 312). 21. From Marseilles to Tunis. 555 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Tunis, p. 331). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ from Marseilles to Goletta (Alexandria) every second Wed. foren. (returning Sat. even.), in 30½ hrs. (90–150 or 60 marks).—=2.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from Marseilles to Tunis direct (Malta, R. 63), Mon. at noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 31½ hrs. (96 or 69 fr.); viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Sfax and Susa, R. 64), Frid. at noon (returning Wed.), in 41 hrs. (81 or 59 fr.).—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._) from Marseilles to Tunis direct (Sfax and Tripoli, R. 64), _rapide_ mail-steamer Wed. at noon (returning Mon. afternoon), in 39 hrs. (75 or 50 fr.); cargo-boat viâ Bizerta to Tunis (Palermo, R. 26), Sat. evening (returning Thurs. at noon), in 49 hrs. (60 or 40 fr.). _Marseilles_, see p. 119.—After remaining for some time in view of the coast of _Provence_ as far as _Cape Sicié_ (comp. p. 132), the vessel steers to the S.E. and loses sight of land. Off the _Isola di Mal di Ventre_ we may catch a glimpse of the peninsula of _Sinis_, which lies on the N. side of the large _Gulf of Oristano_, on the W. coast of _Sardinia_, and at whose S. end once lay the Phœnician colony of _Tharros_. The bare and monotonous hills of the S.W. coast, with the well-known lead and zinc mines of the _Iglesiente_, the region round Iglesias, are only visible in clear weather. The steamer rounds the islands of _San Pietro_ and _San Antioco_ (p. 118), with its capital of the same name on the E. coast, occupying the site of the Phœnician _Sulci_. We pass the _Golfo di Palmas_, with the uninhabited islets of _La Vacca_, _Il Vitello_, and _Il Toro_ (p. 118), and then _Cape Teulada_ (p. 118), after which Sardinia is soon lost to view. To the S.W. appears the distant _Ile de la Galite_ (p. 132); then, on the coast of _Tunisia_, we descry the low spurs of the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 320), with the headlands of _Râs el-Koran_, _Râs Engelah_ (lighthouse; the northmost point of the African continent), _Cap Blanc_ (lighthouse; the _Promontorium Candidum_ of antiquity), and _Cap de Bizerte_ or _Cap Guardia_ (853 ft.; lighthouse). To the S.E. another lighthouse marks the rocks of ‘_I Cani_‘. Some steamers call at _Bizerta_ (p. 352); the others steer to the left, past the Cani and the island of _Pilau_ (p. 132), towards the little _Ile Plane_ (lighthouse), which lies off _Cape Farina_ (Arabic _Râs Tarf_; the ancient _Promontorium Apollinis_), where we come in sight of the broad _Gulf of Tunis_, with the island of _Zembra_ (p. 153) in the background. We now cross the _Bay of Utica_ (p. 353) to the S., which since ancient times has been largely filled up with the deposits of the _Medjerda_ (p. 320), pass _Cape Kamart_ (p. 351) and _La Marsa_ (p. 351), and then reach the picturesque _Cape Carthage_ (p. 351), with its lighthouse and the sea-baths and white houses of _Sidi Bou-Saïd_. We now enter the *_Inner Bay of Tunis_, commanded on the E. by _Jebel Korbous_ (p. 364) and on the S. by _Jebel Bou-Kornin_ (p. 363), _Jebel Ressas_ (p. 358), and _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359); we pass close to the castle-hill of _Carthage_ (p. 344), crowned with the cathedral, the sea-baths of _Le Kram_, _Khéreddine_, and _Goulette Neuve_ (p. 344), and reach _Goletta_ (or _La Goulette_; p. 343), a small seaport, situated on the tongue of land separating the _Lac de Tunis_ or _Lac Bahira_ (p. 332) from the open sea. The steamer here enters the canal, 5½ M. long, 110 yds. wide, and about 20 ft. deep, constructed across the lake in 1893, where we have a good view of the white houses of Tunis. On the right lies the island of _Chikly_, with relics of a castle built by Emp. Charles V. The surface of the lake is sometimes enlivened by flamingoes. The steamer, at half-speed, takes another hour to reach _Tunis_ (p. 329). 22. From Algiers to Tunis by Sea. 432 M. STEAMERS (touching at intermediate ports, 469 M.; agents at Algiers, see p. 219; at Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Tunis, p. 331). =1.= _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_, cargo-boat Wed. evening, viâ Bougie, Djidjelli, Collo, Philippeville, Bona, La Calle, Tabarca, and Bizerta, arrives at Tunis Sun. aft. (returning Sat. noon, arrives at Algiers Wed. morn.); 100 or 80 fr.; pier-dues at Tunis 4 or 3 fr.—=2.= _German Levant Line_, twice or thrice a month, generally calling at La Calle.—=3.= _Hungarian Adria Co._, cargo-boat twice a month to Tunis direct. Or the voyage may be pleasantly divided as follows: Marseilles steamer of _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ from Algiers to Bougie (Frid. evening; in 10 hrs.; 25 or 18 fr.); Marseilles steamer of _Transports Maritimes Co._ from Bougie to Philippeville (Tues. afternoon; in 12 hrs.; 18 or 12 fr.); Marseilles steamer of _Navigation Mixte_ from Philippeville to Bona (Sat. forenoon; in 5 hrs.; 10 or 8 fr.); from Bona to Bizerta, by cargo-boat as above, or by railway; from Bizerta to Tunis by Marseilles steamer of the _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (p. 128; Sat. night; in 5 hrs.; 15 or 12 fr.).—The small coasting steamers of _Prosper Durand_ of Marseilles and of the _Lignes Cotières Algériennes_, which call at most of the ports as far as Bona, can only be recommended for short voyages by daylight. The coast scenery between Algiers and Tunis is exceedingly picturesque and varied, but the voyage is often very trying for bad sailors. Storms are most frequent between Djidjelli and Collo, and between La Calle and Bizerta, and fogs are not uncommon, even in summer. _Algiers_, see p. 217. As the steamer leaves the harbour a beautiful *View is obtained astern of the town and of the coast as far as the _Pointe Pescade_ (comp. p. 127). Beyond _Cape Matifou_ the coast, overlooked by the serrated _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (p. 249), recedes for a time from view. Near _Jebel Djinet_ (p. 253), beyond the sand-hills at the mouth of the _Isser_ (p. 253), begins the bold rock-bound coast of _Great Kabylia_, 87 M. in length, with its headlands and cliffs worn by the surf, its secluded little seaports, and its hill-sides carefully cultivated by the natives. We pass the mouth of the _Sebaou_ (p. 253), the largest stream in Kabylia, and _Cape Bengut_ (p. 254), which affords scanty protection against the W. winds to the port of _Dellys_ (p. 254); then _Tigzirt_ (p. 255), _Cape Tedless_, and _Port Gueydon_ or _Azeffoun_ (lighthouse), with its roadstead open towards the W. Next comes the wildest and loneliest part of the coast, between _Cape Corbelin_ and Cape Carbon; we pass _Cape Sigli_, the _Pointe Timri n’Tguerfa_, where _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262) comes in sight, and _Cape Boulima_. Beyond the little _Ile Pisan_ or _Djeribia_, overlooked by the steep slopes of _Jebel Gouraya_ (p. 265), the steamer rounds _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264), passes _Cape Noir_ and _Cape Bouak_, and enters the harbour of =Bougie= (p. 262). The *_Gulf of Bougie_, in winter the finest part of this coast, presents many superb scenes (comp. 128), notably as we look back at the town of Bougie climbing the slope of Jebel Gouraya. Near _Cape Cavallo_, in the E. part of _Little Kabylia_, the summits of _Jebel Hadid_ (4780 ft.) and _Msid Echta_ (5072 ft.) are specially prominent. We next pass the curiously shaped hill in the _Ile du Grand-Cavallo_, the _Petit-Cavallo_, and the headland _Râs Afia_ (lighthouse), and reach the little seaport of— =Djidjelli= (p. 267), pleasantly situated at the foot of green hills, where the steamers anchor in the open roads (landing or embarkation ½ fr.). If time permit, the _Vigie_ should be visited. The vessel now steers to the N.E. at some distance from the coast; we pass the mouths of the _Oued Nil_ and the _Oued el-Kébir_, the ancient boundary between Mauretania and Numidia, and then the _Râs Atia_ (lighthouse): Fine view of the _Bougaroun Mts._, commonly called _Sahel de Collo_, famed for their forest of cork-trees. Near _Cape Bougaroun_ or _Bougaroni_ (lighthouse), the northmost point of Algeria, opens the broad _Gulf of Stora_ (p. 128), bounded on the E. by the Cap de Fer (see below). On the W. bank of the gulf, in the little _Bay of Collo_, and between the peninsula of _Djerda_ (lighthouse) and the _Râs Frao_, lies the small seaport of— =Collo= (Grand-Hôtel, poor), important only for the export of cork, the ancient _Chullu_ or _Colonia Minervia Chullu_, one of the four Coloniæ Cirtenses (p. 298), in a fertile hill-region. From the harbour (landing or embarkation 30 c.) we walk round the *Peninsula, planted with vines and cacti, and overgrown on the N. side with underwood, and affording splendid views of the gulf. Steering to the E. we now skirt the coast, where the _Cape El-Kalaa_ or _Râs Bibi_ (535 ft.), rising abruptly on both sides, specially strikes the eye, and pass the _Pointe Esrah_ and the bay of that name. By the islet of _Sgrigina_ (lighthouse), which lies in front of the _Pointe Akmês_ or _Sgrigina_, opens the _Inner Bay of Stora_, bounded by _Jebel Filfila_, a mountain rich in marble, while in the background lies the harbour of =Philippeville= (p. 304). On the N.E. margin of the gulf, beyond the plain of the _Oued el-Kébir_, with its border of sand-hills, rise the spurs of _Mont Edough_ (p. 128). The steamer next rounds the almost insular _Cap de Fer_ (1148 ft.; lighthouse), where we again view the whole expanse of the gulf, and passes _Cape Toukouch_, which shelters the bay of _Herbillon_ (lighthouse) from the W. and N.W. winds. We now steer to the E.S.E., past the bare _Jebel Gouari_ (1880 ft.), _Cape Axin_, and the dark rock of the _Voile Noire_ (213 ft.), towards the _Cap de Garde_ (p. 128), which projects in front of the gulf of =Bona=. Three hours’ steaming from Bona, past the low _Cape Rosa_, whose light is seen 30 M. away, brings us to the open roads of =La Calle= (hotel), where landing is impossible in rough weather. Beyond the rock of _Kef Mechtob_ (591 ft.), and a little short of _Cape Roux_, which is crowned with a ruined tower, and like Cape Rosa was once famed for its coral-reefs, runs the frontier of _Tunisia_. The wooded hills rising abruptly from the sea belong to the region of the _Kroumirie_ (p. 326), so often mentioned in the recent history of the country. =Tabarca= (p. 327), the next port, lies picturesquely in a bay behind the island of _Tabarca_ with its ruined Genoese castle. Again steering to the N.E. we pass a range of high sand-hills and the mouth of the _Oued Zouara_, where we have a glimpse of the _Nefza Mts._ (p. 328). Off _Cape Negro_ appears in clear weather the coral-girt _Ile de la Galite_ (1290 ft.), the _Calatha_ of antiquity, about 24 M. to the N.W. of _Cape Serrat_ (lighthouse), where the ramifications of the _Mogod Mts._ approach the coast. Beyond the cliffs of the two _Fratelli_ and the _Râs al-Dukara_ we round the _Bizerta Hills_, the northmost part of the African coast, with the four headlands _Râs el-Koran_, _Râs Engelah_, _Cape Blanc_, and _Cape de Bizerte_ (p. 129). As we near the bay of =Bizerta= (p. 352), fringed with low olive-clad hills, we descry, far to the S.W., the _Jebel Ichkeul_ (p. 352). Steaming farther to the E., we observe the _Cani_ (p. 129) on the left, and pass _Râs Zebib_, where the green island of _Pilau_ (377 ft.) becomes visible in the foreground. To the right, on the N. slope of _Jebel Nadour_ (p. 354), covered far up with sea-sand, lies the highly picturesque Arab village of _Metlineh_. For the voyage from _Cape Farina_ to _Tunis_, see p. 129. 23. From Marseilles to Naples. 512 (viâ Genoa 615) M. STEAMBOAT LINES. =1.= _Orient Royal Mail_ fortnightly, on the way from London to Port Said.—=2.= _North German Lloyd_, for Naples and Alexandria, Wed. afternoon, in 33 hrs. (100 or 70 marks); for Genoa, Naples, Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople (Odessa, Batum) every other Frid. afternoon, in 3 days (80 or 56 marks).—=3.= _German East African_, to Naples (and Port Said) every third Sat. in 2 days, returning from Naples every third Wed. (80 or 60 marks).—=4.= _Messageries Maritimes_, to Naples (Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, Beirut, RR. 77, 80, 75) every second Thurs. (100 or 70 fr.).—=5.= _Chargeurs Réunis_ (Tour du Monde), twice quarterly vîa Genoa to Naples (Colombo, E. Asia, San Francisco, etc.).—=6.= _Hungarian Adria Co._, cargo-boats, Sun. forenoon, vîa Genoa to Naples in 4 days (Palermo, Malta); also Wed. afternoon to Nice, Genoa, and Naples in 4½ days (Palermo, Messina); fare, without food, 42 fr.—The steamers of the P. & O. and Rotterdam Lloyd companies go from Marseilles to Port Said direct. _Marseilles_, and departure from its harbour, see p. 119. The steamers run to the E.S.E., between _Cap Croisette_ and the _Ile du Planier_ (p. 119), past the _Ile Maire_, _Ile Jarros_, and _Ile Rio_ to the Straits of Bonifacio. Fine view of the richly varied coast of Provence, as far as the peninsula of _Cape Sicié_, with the bays of _Cassis_ and _La Ciotat_, the latter of which is overlooked by the rock called the _Bec de l’Aigle_. In the background, beyond the bare limestone rocks on the coast, appears the _Chaîne de la Ste. Baume_ (3786 ft.), famed for its ancient forest, the property of the state. Beyond Cape Sicié and the _Bay of Toulon_, we pass the steep rocky S. coast of _Porquerolles_ (lighthouse), the largest and westmost of the _Iles d’Hyères_, the ancient _Stoechades Insulae_. After a sail of several hours more _Corsica_ (p. 143), with its high mountains, is sighted towards the E. In the distance lies the _Bay of Ajaccio_, where at night the lights on the _Iles Sanguinaires_ may be descried. We next pass the _Gulf of Valinco_, and at _Cape Aquila_ or _Senetosa_ (lighthouse) we approach the S.W. coast of Corsica, fringed with numerous bays and creeks. Off the rocks called _Les Moines_ (_Monaci_) we sight, to the left, the _Montagne de Cagna_ (4518 ft.), which is usually covered with snow in winter. The passage of the *_Straits of Bonifacio_, between Corsica and _Sardinia_, is very beautiful when the light is favourable. At the narrowest part, between _Cape Pertusato_ and _Punta del Falcone_, they are 7 M. wide. Between the lighthouses of _Capo di Feno_ and Capo Pertusato, amid fissured limestone rocks honeycombed with caverns, rises a headland crowned with the grey old Genoese citadel and the white houses of _Bonifacio_. Opposite to it, on the N. coast of Sardinia, is the peninsula of _Capo Testa_, and near the Punta del Falcone lies the narrow _Bay of Longo Sardo_, with the little port of _Santa Teresa di Gallura_. Beyond the town rise the hills of the _Gallura_ in terraces, stretching far away to the _Monti di Limbara_ (4469 ft.). On the S.E. the horizon is bounded by a girdle of granitic islands and rocks, the _Insulae Cuniculariae_ (‘rabbit-islands’) of Pliny, which imperil navigation, especially as they are washed with a strong current from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The steamers pass through the _Bocca Grande_, between the lighthouses on the French island of _Lavezzi_ and the Italian _Isola dei Razzoli_. To the right, beyond the islets of _Santa Maria_ and _Isola dei Budelli_, appears the island of _Maddalena_, on which rise a signalling station and the fort of _Guardia Vecchia_ (545 ft.). This island, the largest of the group, is connected with its neighbours _Santo Stefano_ and _Caprera_ (696 ft.; once the residence of Garibaldi; d. 1882) by roads built on embankments, and has been converted into one of the strongest fortresses on the Mediterranean in emulation of Porto Vecchio in Corsica and of Bizerta. Beyond Caprera, and adjoining the deeply indented _Bay of Arsachena_, appears the reddish _Capo di Ferro_, the N.W. point of Sardinia. We now steer across the _Tyrrhenian Sea_ to the E.S.E. towards the _Ponza Islands_ (p. xxxi). We first pass the volcanic N.W. group, _Palmarola_ (the ancient _Palmaria_), _Ponza_ (929 ft.; _Pontiae_, once a Roman colony), with the lighthouse of _Punta della Guardia_, and _Zannone_ (_Sinonia_). Beyond _La Botte_, a rock dreaded by sailors, begins the S.E. group, first _Ventotene_, the well-known _Pandateria_ of the Romans, to which Julia, Agrippina, and Octavia were banished, and then the islet of _Santo Stefano_ (lighthouse). In the distance appear the _Monte Epomeo_ and the lighthouse on the _Punta Imperatore_ in the island of _Ischia_ (p. 118). Approach to the _Bay of Naples_, see p. 135. From Naples to _Alexandria_ and _Port Said_, see R. 67; to _Athens_ (_Smyrna_, and _Constantinople_), see R. 77. 24. From Genoa to Naples. 387 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Genoa, see p. 114; at Naples, p. 137). =1.= _Cunard_ (New York and Trieste Line), once monthly to Naples.—=2.= _White Star_ (for New York or Boston), once monthly to Naples (3_l._ 5_s._).—=3.= _North German Lloyd_ (for New York), two or three times a month, in 21 hrs.; also (for Port Said) every second Thurs. to Naples, in about 24 hrs.; also Mediterranean-Levant Service (for Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople; RR. 23, 27, 77, 80), every second Sat., in about 26 hrs. (70.40 or 48.20 marks).—=4.= _Hamburg-American_ (for New York), once or twice monthly to Naples (80 fr.).—=5.= _Società Nazionale_: Line XX every Wed. night to Naples (and Messina, etc.; circular trip, comp. p. 142) in 33 hrs. (52 or 34 fr.); Lines V, X, & XI every Mon. and Tues. to Leghorn and Naples in 42–48 hrs. (63 or 42 fr.); Line I monthly to Naples (for Port Said and Bombay).—=6.= _La Veloce_, to Naples (for Teneriffe and S. America), comp. p. 114.—=7.= _Lloyd Sabaudo_, 1–3 times monthly to Naples (Palermo and New York).—=8.= _Italian Lloyd_, 1–3 times monthly to Naples and New York.—=9.= _Hungarian Adria Co._ (comp. R. 23), Tues. and Sat., to Naples in 36 hrs.; fare, without food, 24 fr. _Genoa_, see p. 113. In departing we survey in clear weather the whole of the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lies the _Riviera di Levante_, as far as the _Monte di Portofino_ (2000 ft.; p. 117); on the right are the _Ligurian Alps_, snow-capped in winter, and the _Riviera di Ponente_ as far as _Cape Mele_ (p. 113). The vessel steers for the island of Gorgona (see below), passing Monte di Portofino at a distance of 6 or 7 M., and then gradually leaves the coast; the last place visible is _Chiavari_ on the beautiful _Bay of Rapallo_. Beyond the headland of _Punta del Mesco_, where the slopes of the _Cinque Terre_, a famous wine-country, descend abruptly to the sea, appear the rocky islet of _Tino_ (302 ft.; lighthouse) and the fortified island of _Palmária_ (614 ft.), at the S. point of the _Gulf of Spezia_. The distant pinnacles of the _Apuan Alps_ are seen in clear weather. Of _Leghorn_ (p. 143), where some of the Italian steamers call, the lights only are visible at night. The islands of _Gorgona_ and _Capraia_ (p. 143) lie on the right; behind the latter sometimes peep the mountains of _Corsica_ (p. 143). From the Ligurian we now pass into the _Tyrrhenian Sea_, either through the _Strait of Piombino_, between the port of _Piombino_ and the rocky islet of _Palmaiola_, or through the _Palmaiola Strait_, between that islet (lighthouse) and _Elba_ (p. 143). By _Follónica_, near Piombino, some furnaces, where iron from Elba is smelted, gleam through the night. Beyond the _Bay of Portoferraio_ and _Capo della Vita_, the N.E. point of Elba, are seen near _Rio Marina_ the reddish-black hills where the iron-ore comes to the surface. Farther to the S. is seen the depression of the bay of _Porto Longone_. [Illustration: NAPOLI] The _Promontory of Castiglione_, in the midst of the marshy _Maremma Toscana_, and the small group of the islands of _Formíche di Grosseto_ remain some way to the left. The steamer then passes through a strait between the steep headland of _Monte Argentario_ (2083 ft.) and the island of _Giglio_ (1634 ft.), each with its lighthouse. On the right lies the islet of _Giannutri_ (305 ft.). Steering towards the seaport of _Civitavecchia_ and _Cape Linaro_, we see the distant _Maremma di Roma_, backed by the volcanic _Tolfa Mts._ (2011 ft.). Above the _Roman Campagna_ rise the _Sabine_ and _Alban Mts._, followed by the _Volscian Mts._ (Monti Lepini) and the _Monte Circeo_ (1775 ft.) in the _Pontine Marshes_. Farther on, we obtain a glimpse of _Terracina_, the distant hills on the _Gulf of Gaëta_, and, to the S.W., the _Ponza Islands_ (p. 133). In the foreground we next sight _Vesuvius_ and the island of _Ischia_ with _Monte Epomeo_ (2589 ft.), by which _Capri_ is at first concealed. The steamers usually pass between Ischia and _Procida_, but sometimes through the _Strait of Procida_, between that island and _Cape Miseno_. The *_Bay of Naples_, which we now survey in its full expanse, from the _Bay of Pozzuoli_ and the hill of _Posilipo_ to the _Peninsula of Sorrento_ (p. 154), is strikingly picturesque. =Naples.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5). Passengers by other steamers are landed at that quay by boat, those from the Lloyd and Orient Royal Lines free of charge by steam-tender or boat respectively, from others by rowing-boat (1 fr., with luggage, but bargain advisable). Travellers should be on their guard against boatmen wearing the jerseys of well-known steamboat-lines though not employed by these companies. Porter (facchino) for small valise 40, trunk 80 c. The =Railway Station= (_Stazione Centrale_, Pl. H, 3) lies at the E. end of the city, 12 min. from the Immacolatella Nuova (see above), and ½¾ M. from most of the hotels. Here arrive all the express trains from the north, such as those from Verona (18½–20¼ hrs.), from Milan (17 hrs.), from Turin (17½–22½ hrs.), and from Venice (20 hrs.). As the delivery of luggage is a slow process, the traveller who is willing to pay somewhat more may drive straight to his hotel without it, and have it sent later. Porter (_facchino_) for each small package 15, for each trunk 25 c. =Hotels= (often full in spring). Of the very first class: *BERTOLINI’S PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; C, 6), in the Parco Grifeo (with lift from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 245 ft.), R. from 6 (Jan.–May 10) fr., B. 2, déj. 5, D. 8 fr.; *EXCELSIOR (Pl. o; F, 7), Via Partenope 24, R. from 6, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7 fr., new; *GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; B, 7), Piazza Principe di Napoli, near the sea, at the W. end of the Villa Nazionale (p. 141), R. from 6, B. 1¾, déj. 4½, D. 7 fr.—In the higher quarters, with beautiful views: Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168, *BRISTOL (Pl. a; D, 6), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 135, *PARKER’S (Pl. b; C, 6), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; adjacent, No. 133, *MACPHERSON’S HÔT. BRITANNIQUE (Pl. q; C, 6), R. 4–6 (Jan.-April, 5–8) fr., B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.; *GRAND EDEN (Pl. u; C, 6), Parco Margherita 1, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5½ fr.; BELLEVUE (Pl. t; C, 6), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142, R. 3½–4½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr. =In the lower quarters.=—Via Partenope, facing the sea: No. 23, *GR.-HÔT. SANTA LUCIA (Pl. m; F, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 22, *GR.-HÔT. DU VÉSUVE (Pl. g; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. VICTORIA (Pl. v; E, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 14, *ROYAL DES ETRANGERS (Pl. i; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr. Piazza del Municipio (convenient for passing travellers): *GR.-HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. l; F, 6), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr. Overlooking the sea, Via Partenope and Strada Chiatamone 55, HASSLER (Pl. k; E, 7), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good; Via Caracciolo 15, SAVOY (Pl. r; B, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. Riviera di Chiaia (Pl. D, C, B, 7), with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea: No. 276, *GR. BRETAGNE & ANGLETERRE (Pl. e; D, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.—By the sea, Via Partenope 20, *CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; E, 7), R. 3½–7, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. Strada Medina 76 (convenient for passing travellers), ISOTTA & GENÈVE (Pl. s; F, 5), R. 4½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. By the sea, entrance Strada Chiatamone 59, MÉTROPOLE & VILLE (Pl. h; E, 7), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 3–4½ fr., good. Riviera di Chiaia 127, with view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea, RIVIERA (Pl. f; C, 7), R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good. Strada Santa Lucia 37, ELDORADO MODÉRN (Pl. x; E, 7), R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr. Unpretending: LA PATRIA (Pl. w; F, 5) Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 47, R. 3½–5 fr., good; HÔT. DE NAPLES, Corso Umberto Primo 55, R. 4–5 fr.; HÔT. MILAN & SCHWEIZERHOF, Piazza del Municipio 84, R. 3–4 fr., RUSSIE (Pl. n; F, 7), Strada Santa Lucia 82, R. 2½–3½ fr., both plain. =Restaurants= (_Ristoranti_, _Trattorie_; Italian style, à la carte). _Giardini Internazionali_, Via Roma, entrance Vico Tre Re 60, good cuisine; _Giardini di Torino_, Via Roma 292; _Ristorante Milanese_, Galleria Umberto Primo, N. Italian cookery; _Scotto Jonno_, Galleria Principe di Napoli (Pl. F, 3), déj. 2 fr., _Nic. Esposito_, Salita del Museo 62 (these two suitable for visitors to the Museum); _Renzo e Lucia_, _Mira Napoli_, both at the terminus of tramway-line Nr. 7 (for visitors to San Martino); _Ristorante Bella Vista_ (p. 142), on the hill of Posilipo.—=Beer.= *_Pilsener Urquell_, Strada Santa Brigida 36; _Bavaria_, Galleria Umberto Primo, opposite the Teatro San Carlo, good. =Cafés.= _Gambrinus_, Piazza San Ferdinando, also restaurant, _Calzona_, Galleria Umberto Primo, at both evening concerts; _Nazionale_, Villa Nazionale (p. 141), near the Aquarium.—=Tea Rooms.= Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7). open 3–8 p.m. only, fashionable; Via Domenico Morelli 8 (Pl. E, 7); Strada di Chiaia 143 (Caflish, confectioner).—=Bars=, numerous in Via Roma. =Taximeter Cabs.= All the fares given below are for drives within the city; charges for drives outside the city at any time of day are the same as the night-fares given below. a. BY DAY: _Open one-horse carriage_ (for 2 pers., or 3 at most), for the first 1500 metres (ca. 1 M.) or 12 min. waiting 40 c., for each additional 500 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._, for 4–6 pers., 60 and 20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ (‘coupé’), for the first 1200 m. (ca. ¾ M.) or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each addit. 200 m. or 2½ min. waiting 10 c.; each addit. pers. above three 40 c.—b. BY NIGHT (midnight to dawn): _Open one-horse carriage_ for the first 1200 m. or 12 min. waiting 40 c., each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._ 60 and 20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ for the first 1000 m. or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 333⅓ m. (ca. 365 yds.) or 4 min. waiting 10 c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each addit. 100 m. (ca. 110 yds.) or 2 min. waiting 10 c.; each pers. above three 80 c. Luggage up to 25 kilos (55 lbs.) 10 c., up to 50 kilos 20 c.; small articles free.—In order to avoid misunderstandings the driver should be asked to repeat the given direction before starting. The numerous tramways and omnibuses will generally enable the traveller to dispense with cabs. =Tramways= (numbered; fare 15–40 c., 5 c. less in 2nd class; cars stop regularly at stations called _sezione_, and when required at those bearing the name _fermata_). Chief lines: =1.= _Piazza Sette Settembre_ (in front of Spirito Santo; Pl. E, 4; Via Roma, p. 139) to the Posta (Pl. F, 5), Piazza del Municipio, Piazza San Ferdinando, Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7), Torretta (Pl. B, 7), and _Strada Nuova di Posilipo_ (p. 142).—=4.= _National Museum_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 139) to the Piazza Cavour, Central Station (Pl. H, 3; p. 135), Castel del Carmine (Pl. H, 4), Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5), Strada del Piliero, and Piazza del Municipio; thence as No. 1 to the _Torretta_.—=6.= _Piazza Dante_ (Pl. E, F, 4; p. 139) to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141), and _Torretta_ (Pl. B, 7).—=7.= _Piazza Dante_ to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa, Antignano (Pl. B, C, 4; p. 142), and _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; by San Martino, p. 141).—=11.= _Piazza San Ferdinando_ (Pl. E, 6), to Strada del Piliero, Strada Nuova (Pl. F, G, 5, 6; harbour), Via del Duomo (Pl. G, F, 4, 3), and _Strada delle Vérgini_ (Pl. F, 3). =Funiculars= (every 10–20 min.; up 20 or 15, down 15 or 10 c.). =1.= _Funicolare di Chiaia_, Parco Margherita (Pl. C, 6), to Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Cimarosa (Pl. C, 5).—=2.= _Funicolare di Monte Santo_ to Strada Monte Santo (Pl. E, 4; 4 min. from Piazza Dante), Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and Castel Sant’Elmo (Pl. D, 5). =Omnibuses= (10 c.), among others, from Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E, 6) and from Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7) to the National Museum. =Steamboat Agents.= _Cunard_, Nic. Ferolla, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 59; _Union Castle_, _Anchor Line_, _Orient_, and _Hungarian Adria_, Holme & Co. (see below); _White Star_ and _Hamburg-American_, Piazza della Borsa 21; _North German Lloyd_, Aselmeyer & Co., Corso Umberto Primo 6 (goods-office, Piazza della Borsa 33); _German East African_, Kellner & Lampe, Piazza della Borsa 8; _Austro-Americana_, Fornari & Massara, Via Francesco Denza 2; _Messageries Maritimes_, Fratelli Gondrand, Corso Umberto Primo 128; _Società Nazionale_, Via Agostino Depretis 18; _Peninsular & Oriental_, _Thomson Line_, _Ferrovie dello Stato_ (steamer service), Spanier, Piazza della Borsa 9; _Navigazione Generale_, Via Agostino Depretis; _La Veloce_, same street, No. 26. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. F, 5), Palazzo Gravina, Strada Monteoliveto. =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _S. J. A. Churchill_, Via dei Mille 40 (Pl. D, 6); vice-consul, _A. Napier_.—U. S. Consul, _A. H. Byington_, Piazza del Municipio 4 (Pl. F, 6). =Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7).—=Goods Agents.= _American Express_, Via Vittoria 27; _Elefante & Co._, Piazza del Municipio 66; _Fratelli Gondrand_, Corso Umberto Primo 128.—=Lloyd’s Agents.= _Holme & Co._, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 24. =Churches.= _English_ (_Christ Church_; ‘Chiesa Inglese’; Pl. D, 7), Strada San Pasquale; _Presbyterian_ (‘Chiesa Scozzese’), Vico Cappella Vecchia 2; _American_, Viale Principessa Elena 15. =Sights.= (The churches are usually open in the morning and towards evening. The Museums are closed on great festivals.) _Museo Nazionale_ (p. 139), week-days 10–4, May-Oct. 9–3, adm. 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1 free.—_San Martino_ (p. 141), week-days 10–4, 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1, free.—_Aquarium_ (p. 141), daily, 2 fr.; Sun. and holidays 1 fr. _Naples_, Ital. _Napoli_, once the capital of the kingdom of Naples, and now that of a province, is the most important seaport and after Milan the most populous city of Italy (492,000 inhab.). It lies in 40°51′ N. lat. and 14°15′ E. long., on the N. side of the bay named after it, at the foot and on the slopes of several hills. Its site and environs are among the most beautiful in the world. The vicissitudes of its history are as remarkable as those of its volcanic soil. Here in hoar antiquity Greeks from _Kyme_ (Cumæ) founded _Parthenope_, afterwards called _Palaeopolis_ or ‘old town’, and _Neapolis_, or ‘new town’. Here, too, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Normans, and Hohenstaufen held sway. Charles of Anjou (1266–85) made Naples his capital, which was much extended by Ferdinand I. of Aragon (1458–94), by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (1532–53), and by the Bourbon Charles III. (1748–59). At length in 1860 the kingdom and city were united to the kingdom of Italy. In historic and artistic monuments Naples is far poorer than the towns of Northern and Central Italy; but the matchless treasures from Pompeii and Herculaneum preserved in the Museum, which present a new and fascinating picture of ancient life, afford ample compensation. A line drawn from the _Castel Sant’Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; p. 141) to the _Pizzofalcone_ (Pl. E, 7), a height which terminates in the narrow rock of the _Castello dell’Ovo_, divides the city into two parts. To the E. lie the oldest and busiest quarters, of which the long _Via Roma_ (p. 139) is the main street. The smaller part of the town, the strangers’ quarter, extends along the shore to the W. from the Pizzofalcone and up the slopes of Sant’Elmo and _Posilipo_ (p. 142). The HARBOUR QUARTER, and particularly the lanes between the Strada Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5) and the broad Corso Umberto Primo (Pl. F-H, 5, 4), which leads to the station, still present diverse scenes of popular life. Through this quarter the Strada del Duomo (p. 140) leads to the Strada Foria and the _Museum_ (p. 139). Passing the _Immacolatella Vecchia_ (Pl. G, 5), we follow the Strada del Piliero (Pl. G, F, 5, 6; tramways Nos. 4 and 11; see p. 137) to the _Molo Angioino_ (Pl. F, G, 6), the old quay which separates the _Porto Mercantile_ from the _Porto Militare_. Adjacent, on the W., lies the PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO (Pl. F, 6), with the _Municipio_ or town-hall at its W. end. On the S.E. side of this piazza is the approach to the— =Castel Nuovo= (Pl. F, 6), built for Charles I. of Anjou in 1279–83, and afterwards much enlarged. It was the residence successively of the kings of the houses of Anjou and Aragon and the Spanish viceroys, but is now used as barracks. The inner gateway of the castle (adm. free) consists of a *_Triumphal Arch_, flanked with two towers, in the early Renaissance style, erected in 1451–70 in memory of the entry of Alphonso I. of Aragon (1442). From the Piazza del Municipio the Strada San Carlo leads to the S.W. to the =Galleria Umberto Primo= (Pl. E, F, 6), built in 1887–90, and vying with the grand arcade at Milan, and to the— PIAZZA SAN FERDINANDO (Pl. E, 6), the business centre of the city. (Tramcars and omnibuses, see p. 137.) On the E. side rises the _Teatro San Carlo_ (Pl. F, 6), dating from 1737, one of the largest in Europe. Adjacent, in the large Piazza del Plebiscito, rises the =Palazzo Reale= (Pl. F, 6), begun in 1600. At the Piazza San Ferdinando begins the VIA ROMA, the chief artery of traffic, named the _Toledo_ down to 1870, after its founder Don Pedro de Toledo (1540). With its continuation the Salita del Museo Nazionale it ascends for over a mile, between the lanes on the slope of the Sant’Elmo hill, on the left, and the chief business part of the city, on the right, to the National Museum. This long line of streets, poor architecturally, is broken only by the small Largo della Carità (Pl. E, 5) and the Piazza Dante (Pl. E, F, 4). About halfway between these the Via Domenico Capitelli diverges to the right to the church of— _Santa Chiara_ (Pl. F, 4), the Pantheon of Naples, built in 1310–40, but tastelessly restored in 1742–57. The interior, planned in the French Gothic style, resembles a great public hall. Behind the high-altar is the Gothic *Monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), the founder of the church. The transepts contain the monuments of other Angevin kings. The **=Museo Nazionale= (Pl. E, F, 3), built in 1586 as cavalry barracks, was the seat of the University from 1616 to 1780, but since 1790 has been occupied by the royal art-collections, which are among the finest in the world. Adm., see p. 137. On the GROUND FLOOR, in the E. wing on the right of the vestibule, are the *Greek Sculptures in marble. Entering by the first door, we begin our visit with the colonnade of the archaic sculptures (Marmi Arcáici). In the centre: 6009, 6010. Harmodios and Aristogeiton (p. 506).—Turning to the right, we enter the rooms on the S. side of the building, which contain sculptures of the First Golden Age of Greek art (5th cent.). In the central room, 6322. Bust of Athena, probably after _Cephisodotus_ (father of Praxiteles); by the window, two statues of Aphrodite (after _Alcamenes_?); I. Room on the right, 6005. So-called Hera Farnese; II. Room on the left, *6727. The famous Orpheus relief; *6024. Statue of Athena (after _Phidias_?). Also, in II. R. on the right, fine Mosaics. From the colonnade of the archaic sculptures we pass through R. II into the Flora colonnade, the rooms on the right of which contain the sculptures of the Second Golden Age of Greek art (4th cent.) and of the later Greek or Hellenistic period. In the central room, 6306. Bearded Dionysus, after _Praxiteles_. I. Side-Room on the right, *6035. Torso of Aphrodite; without a number, Torso of a man sitting, a replica of the so-called Ares Ludovisi, after _Lysippus_. II. Side-Room, Farnese Hercules, after _Lysippus_, but coarsened. III. Side-Room on the left, Farnese Bull, a colossal group, after _Apollonius_ and _Tauriscus_ of Rhodes. The third colonnade contains coloured sculptures. In the side-rooms are fragments of sculptures and buildings. Crossing the vestibule to the W. wing, we enter the— Colonnade of the Greek portrait-statues (Portico Iconográfico). On the right, *6018. Æschines, the Athenian orator; 6023. Homer; 6135. Euripides.—Straight on, we next come to the Portico degli Imperatori, containing Greek and Roman portraits. In the centre, *Hermes of a Greek philosopher. In the side-rooms, Roman sculptures and architectural fragments. The central of these rooms contains the celebrated *Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander. The remaining rooms contain the *Collection of the larger antique bronzes. The chief rooms (I, II Bronzes from Pompeii, III-V from Herculaneum) are on the S. front of the Museum. Room I. 5003. Young Dionysos (so-called Narcissus). Room II. 5630. Archaic statue of Apollo playing on the lyre; 4997. Victory. Room III. 5625. Hermes reposing, _School of Lysippus_; 5633. Boy’s head (end of 5th cent.); *4885. Bust of the Doryphorus (spear-bearer), after _Polycletus_; *5618. Head of bearded Dionysus, after a work of the _School of Myron_ (5th cent.). Room V. 5616. Hellenistic poet (the so-called Seneca). In the MEZZANINO (entresol), on the right, is the *Collection of ancient wall-paintings (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Pompeii, Herculaneum, etc.—Room I. 9105. Briseis carried off from the tent of Achilles; 9559. Nuptials of Zeus and Hera. Room II. 8976. Medea about to slay her children; 9286. Dionysus and the sleeping Ariadne. Passage to R. V, 9180. ‘Cupids for sale’. Room V. 8834. Girl gathering flowers; 9295. Bacchantes and Satyrs; 9133. Centaurs; 9118–21. Rope-dancing satyrs. The FIRST FLOOR (Primo Piano) contains, in the E. wing, to the left of the staircase, the two Sale dei Commestibili, devoted to provisions, textiles, pigments, etc. from Pompeii; also seven rooms on the N. side of the building, occupied by the *Collection of the smaller bronzes (Piccoli Bronzi), and by interesting domestic furniture from Pompeii, affording an admirable idea of the ancient style of living. The whole of the W. wing is occupied by the Pinacotéca or picture-gallery, chiefly of Italian works. Room I. _Correggio_, Betrothal of St. Catharine. Room II. *_Titian_, Danae (1545), Pope Paul III. Farnese (1543 and 1545), and Philip II. of Spain. Room III. _Sebast. del Piombo_, Holy Family, Popes Hadrian VI. and Clement VII. Room IV. _Raphael_, Holy Family (Madonna del divino Amore). Room V. _Sandro Botticelli_, Madonna. The other rooms contain Renaissance objects (Oggetti del Cinquecento), the Engravings, and the National Library. The SECOND FLOOR (Secondo Piano) is dedicated to antique glass, gold and silver plate, cut gems, etc., a most interesting and extensive collection, one of the finest of its kind. The N.E. QUARTER, between the Museum and the Central Station (tramways Nos. 4 and 11; p. 137), also boasts of its sights. We follow the long Piazza Cavour (Pl. F, 3) to the N.E. from the Museum, and at the beginning of the Via Foria descend the Strada del Duomo to the right to the (4 min.)— =Cathedral= (Pl. G, 3; _San Gennaro_; best seen about noon), a Gothic edifice, built in 1272–1323, but repeatedly modernized. The third chapel in the right aisle is the famous Cappella di San Gennaro or Cappella del Tesoro, added to the church in 1608–37; the altar contains two phials of the blood of St. Januarius, which is miraculously liquefied thrice yearly. The crypt, below the high-altar, shows the finest example of Renaissance decoration in Naples (1497–1507). From the left aisle is entered the basilica of _Santa Restituta_, the old cathedral, founded in the 7th century. The church of _San Giovanni a Carbonara_ (Pl. G, 3), in the street of that name, a little way to the N.E. of the cathedral, contains, at the back of the high-altar (1746), the late-Gothic *Monument of king Ladislaus (d. 1414), by Andreas de Florentia. At the end of the street, opposite the _Castel Capuano_ (Pl. G, 3; now law-courts), built by Emp. Frederick II. in 1231, rises the— *=Porta Capuana= (Pl. G, H, 3), one of the finest of Renaissance gateways, built by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano (1485), with sculptures by Giovanni da Nola (1535). [Illustration: DINTORNI DI NAPOLI] [Illustration: GULFO DI SALERNO] The chief approach from the Piazza San Ferdinando (p. 138) to the W. quarters is by the animated STRADA DI CHIAIA (Pl. E, 6). From its W. end we proceed along the Strada Santa Caterina, bearing to the left, cross the Piazza dei Martiri, and follow the Via Calabritto, with its numerous shops, to the— LARGO DELLA VITTORIA (Pl. D, 7; tramways, Nos. 1 and 4, and omnibus, see p. 137). This piazza may be reached also from the Rione Santa Lucia on the E. side by the Via Parténope (Pl. F, E, 7), which leads along the coast, past the _Costello dell’Ovo_ (p. 138), and affords fine views. On the W. side of the Largo lies the— *=Villa Nazionale= (Pl. C, D, 7), usually called _La Villa_, a beautiful public garden planted with palms, bounded on the seaside by the Via Caracciolo, the fashionable promenade of Naples, and on the side next the town by the Riviera di Chiaia. A band plays here on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 2–4 o’clock (June-Oct. 9–11 p.m.). In the middle of these grounds is the— _Zoological Station_, founded in 1872 by the German naturalist A. Dohrn (d. 1909). The central building contains the *=Aquarium= (Pl. D, 7; adm., see p. 137), which presents an unrivalled and most interesting picture of submarine life. The winding =Corso Vittorio Emanuele=, over 2½ M. long, ascends from the coast a little way beyond the Villa Nazionale, or it may be reached from the Museum by the Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3; tramway No. 6, see p. 137). Above the ‘Villa’, on the S. slope of the Sant’ Elmo Hill, are situated the best hotels. On the hills to which the two funiculars and tramway No. 7 (p. 137) ascend from the lower town lies the new quarter of _Rione Vómero_ (Pl. C, D, 5). On its E. side rises the old _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; 817 ft.), fortified with huge walls and with passages hewn in the tufa rock, and now used as a military prison. From the outer gate of the castle, at the tramway-terminus, we descend to the E. to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of— *=San Martino= (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 137), a Gothic building of the 14th cent., tastefully restored in the baroque style about 1650. The church, the old farmacía (Room III), and the cloisters are interesting. The other rooms contain Neapolitan memorials and art-industry collections. Rooms XV and XVI (once the library) are filled with Neapolitan majolicas and porcelain. From Room XXX, to the right, we enter a *_Belvedere_ (XXXII), whose balconies offer a superb view of the city, Vesuvius, the bay, and the fertile plain extending to the Apennines (best by afternoon light). A famous view (clear weather necessary) is obtained from the old monastery of **=Camaldoli= (1503 ft.), founded in 1585 on the highest of the hills to the N.W. of Sant’ Elmo. The rough road to it (carr. about 6, with two horses 9–10 fr.; there and back 4½ hrs.) leaves the city near the _Porta San Martino_ (Pl. A, B, 2), the N.W. gate of the Cinta Daziaria or wall of the _octroi_ (town-customs). If on foot or on donkey back (2–2½ fr. and fee to attendant; 5–6 hrs.), we go from _Rione Vomero_ (see above) through the suburb of _Antignano_ (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) to the little customs-office of _l’Archetiello_ (Pl. B, 4), near which the bridle-path begins. The monastery (suppressed, and now private property, but still occupied by several monks; fee 30–50 c.; ladies not admitted) offers little attraction. Straight through the garden we reach a point of view which commands the bays of Naples and Pozzuoli, the Phlegræan plain with its numerous extinct craters, and the Bay of Gaëta as far as the distant Ponza Islands (p. 133). When ladies are of the party we turn to the right, near the N.W. angle of the monastery-wall, and descend a little to the (8 min.) gate of the _Veduta Pagliana_ (adm. 20 c.), where the view is similar. Travellers whose time is limited may at least visit the *_Strada Nuova di Posílipo_ (tramway No. 1; p. 137). It is approached, beyond the Villa Nazionale (p. 141), by the Strada di Mergellina (Pl. B, 7), from which the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141) diverges. The Strada Nuova di Posilipo, gradually ascending from the sea, leads between villas with luxuriant gardens round the broad hill of _Posílipo_, which bounds the Bay of Naples on the W., and offers, especially by evening light, superb views of Mt. Vesuvius, the peninsula of Sorrento (p. 154), and the island of Capri. A walk of 10 min. straight on from the tramway-terminus brings us through a cutting to the _Bella Vista_, a point of view near the restaurant of that name (p. 136), where we have an unimpeded view of the bay of Pozzuoli and of the islands of Procida and Ischia (p. 135). An interesting circular trip may be made from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141), up the Via Tasso (Pl. C, B, 6), with its fine points of view, to the top of Posilipo, then along the crest of the hill to the S.W. to the tramway-terminus, and back by the Posilipo road (a walk of 3½–4 hrs., or a drive of 1½ hr.; a cab should be taken by the hour). For Naples and its Environs comp. also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy_, or _Italy from the Alps to Naples_. 25. From Genoa to Tunis viâ Leghorn and Cagliari. 620 M. This route forms part of the ‘Linea Circolare della Tunisia e Tripolitania’ (Lines XVIII-XX) of the _Società Nazionale_, a circular tour which offers interesting glimpses of Sardinia, Malta, and the E. coast of Sicily, as well as of Oriental life at the N. African ports (RR. 64, 27, 24). The steamers usually leave Genoa on Frid. evening, Leghorn on Sat. night, and Cagliari on Mon. evening, and arrive at Tunis on Tues. forenoon. (In the reverse direction they leave Tunis on Mon. at noon and reach Genoa on Thurs. evening.) Fare 111 or 83 fr. (or for the whole round 303 or 212 fr.). As some of the steamers are hardly up to date, inquiry as to the best should be made beforehand. Office at Genoa, see p. 114; at Leghorn, Piazza Micheli (p. 143); at Tunis, p. 331. _Genoa_, and voyage to (92 M.) _Leghorn_, comp. pp. 113, 134. We pass _Melória_, a cliff 4 M. to the W. of Leghorn, off which the Genoese destroyed the fleet of Pisa in 1284. =Leghorn=, Ital. _Livorno_ (Marble Palace Hotel; Hôt. d’Angleterre & Campari, Hôt. Giappone, both in Via Vittorio Emanuele, with restaurants, good Italian houses for passing travellers; Brit, cons., M. Carmichael; U. S. cons., E. A. Man; pop. 78,000), a provincial capital, one of the chief seaports of Italy, and a sea-bathing place, is quite a modern town. The harbour consists of the _Porto Nuovo_, sheltered by a semicircular mole (_diga curvilinea_) and the new _Molo Vegliaia_, and the old _Porto Mediceo_, or inner harbour. (Landing or embarkation 1 fr.; trunk 30 c.). Near the harbour is the Piazza Micheli, adorned with a curious monument of the grand-duke _Ferdinand I. of Tuscany_ (1587–1609). Straight on runs the Via Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, lined with shops. It leads across the large Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, which is flanked by the _Cathedral_, the _Municipio_, and other public buildings, to the Piazza Carlo Alberto, whence the Via Garibaldi and Via Palestro lead to the left to the railway-station. A pleasant walk (or tramway from the station to Antignano) is offered by the _Viale Regina Margherita_, about 2 M. in length, the seaside promenade to the S. of the town, in summer enlivened by numerous bathers. Between it and the harbour, and adjoining the Piazza Mazzini, is the _Cantiere Orlando_, the dockyards where iron-clads and other vessels are built for the Italian navy. At the S. end of the sea-promenade lie the villa-suburbs of _Ardenza_ and _Antignano_, which have sea-baths also. On the fine VOYAGE from Leghorn to (339 M.) Cagliari we at first obtain a good view of the _Tuscan Archipelago_, relics of the primæval _Tyrrhenis_ (p. xxxi). These islands are composed mainly of granite, with slate and limestone strata overlying it in places. Passing at some distance from the barren fisher-island of _Gorgona_ (837 ft.) and from _Capraia_, the _Capraria_ (goats’ island) of antiquity, we steer to the S.S.W. towards the W. coast of Elba, enjoying in clear weather a fine distant *View of the peninsula of _Cape Corse_, the N. extremity of _Corsica_, and of _Monte Cinto_ (8892 ft.), the highest mountain in the interior of that island. We next skirt the island of _Elba_, the _Æthalia_ of the Greeks and _Ilva_ of the Romans, the largest island in the archipelago, 19 M. long, famous as the scene of the first exile of Napoleon I. (1814–5). The valuable iron-mines here (comp. pp. 134, 135), worked from very ancient times, are an important factor in the industries of Italy. We pass the rocky N. coast of the island, which is visible as far as the _Capo della Vita_ (p. 135), and on its W. side we observe the massive granitic _Monte Capanne_ (3343 ft.). The steamer passes between the hardly less steep S. coast of Elba and the flat island of _Pianosa_ (85 ft.; the ancient _Planasia_), and steers to the S.S.W. towards the S. coast of Sardinia. On the left, about 26 M. from Elba, appears the bold granitic island of _Montecristo_ (2126 ft.), the ancient _Oglasa_, the scene of the well-known novel ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’, by Alex. Dumas. The _Straits of Bonifacio_ (p. 133) lie far to the W. of the steamer’s course. Off the N.E. coast of _Sardinia_ we first sight the massive rocky island of _Tavolara_ (1821 ft.), the _Bucina_ of the Romans, masking the _Bay of Terranova_; then, when off _Capo Comino_, the eastmost point of Sardinia, we see _Monte Alvo_ (3701 ft.), a little inland. The somewhat monotonous S.E. coast of the island is backed by sterile mountains. We pass the little port of _Arbatax_ (_Tortolì Marina_), the _Capo di Bellavista_, the _Capo Sferra Cavallo_, the _Monte Ferrau_ (2878 ft.), the _Capo Ferrato_, and lastly the islet of _Serpentara_. Beyond _Capo Carbonara_, the S.E. point of Sardinia, and the _Isola dei Cavoli_ (p. 118), opens the broad _Gulf of Cagliari_ on the flat S. coast of the island. On the hill-side at the head of the gulf, beyond the fortified _Cape Sant’Elia_, which shuts off the inner _Golfo di Quarto_, lies the town of _Cagliari_. Around it are several large coast-lakes, the _Stagno di Molentargius_, on the E., the _Stagno di Cagliari_, on the W., and others, which yield quantities of salt. The latter has been separated from the gulf only since the middle ages by a neck of land called the _Plaia_. =Cágliări.=—The STEAMER is moored in the Darsena. Landing or embarkation 40, with baggage 60 c. HOTELS. _Scala di Ferro_, Viale Regina Margherita 5, with good restaurant, R. 2½–3 fr.; _Quattro Mori_, Largo Carlo Felice, R. from 2 fr., also restaurant.—_Café Torino_, Via Roma. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Via Lodovico Baille 22.—CAB (bargaining advisable) 1, at night ½ fr. per drive; baggage 20 c. BRITISH CONSUL (also Lloyd’s Agent), _R. E. Pernis_. _Cagliari_, Sardin. _Casteddu_, the Roman _Carales_, a very ancient town, having been founded by the Phœnicians, now the seat of a university and of an archbishop, with 48,000 inhab., lies in one of the hottest and driest regions in Italy. At the foot of the _Castello_ or old town (290 ft.) lie the new quarters of _Villanova_, _Marina_, and _Stampace_, adjoined on the W. by the suburb of _Sant’Avendrace_. The VIA ROMA, an avenue skirting the sea, the fashionable corso in the evening, leads from the _Palazzo Comunale_ to the Largo Carlo Felice. On the right are two covered _Markets_, which are worth seeing in the forenoon. This largo leads to the PIAZZA YENNE, the business centre of the modern town. At the N. end of the Largo Carlo Felice rises a statue of _Charles Felix I._ (1821–31), and in the Piazza Yenne an antique column. Between these passes the main thoroughfare of the town: to the left the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, ending near a group of ancient Roman houses recently excavated, now called _Casa di Tigellio_; to the right, leading to the upper town, the animated VIA MANNO (popularly ‘_La Costa_‘), with numerous shops, where among other things the gold ornaments commonly worn by the country-people should be noticed. From the Piazza della Costituzione, at the S.E. end of the Via Manno, the *VIALE REGINA ELENA runs to the N., beneath the precipitous E. side of the abrupt Castello. It affords a fine view of the ancient town-wall, of the cathedral, and of the picturesque rear of the castle-buildings; below, on the right, lies Villanova, with its quaint tiled roofs, while beyond it we have a splendid view of Cape Sant’ Elia and across the wide plain of Quarto to the mountains. From the _Giardino Pubblico_, at the N. end of the promenade, we mount to the W. to the _Passeggiata Buon Cammino_ (see below). Adjoining the Via Manno (p. 144) is the small Piazzetta de’Martiri d’Italia, whence the Via Giuseppe Mazzini ascends in two bends to the *_Castello_, still fortified in mediæval style. At the top is the new _Passeggiata Coperta_, one of the finest points in the town. The Via dell’Università leads hence to the left to the _University_ and to the ponderous _Torre dell’Elefante_, which, according to the inscription, was erected by the Pisans in 1307. Straight on we pass through the _Torre dell’Aquila_, an old gateway now enclosed within the _Palazzo Boyl_, to the VIA LAMARMORA, the main street in the Castello, which is connected with the parallel streets by steep lanes, dark vaulted passages, and steps. From the terraced little Piazza del Municipio, with the council-hall of the old town, a flight of steps to the right ascends to the _Cathedral_ (Santa Cecilia), completed by the Pisans in 1312, but since then frequently altered. A new façade, in keeping with the old building, is now under construction. Farther to the N., in the Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, is the Pisan _Torre San Pancrazio_ (14th cent.), a modern addition to which contains the very notable MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES (if closed apply to the director, Sig. Nissardi). Besides Phœnician and Roman antiquities we may note the cork model of a nuraghe, one of the conical fortresses built by the aboriginal Iberian inhabitants. Going through the _Citadel_, which bounds the Castello on the N., we follow the _Passeggiata Buon Cammino_ to the Piazza d’Armi. Just beyond the barracks a road to the left leads to the Roman— _Amphitheatre_ (greater diameter 97, smaller 80 yds.; arena 55 by 37 yds.), with tiers of seats mostly hewn in the rock. Below the amphitheatre lie the garden of the _Poor House_ (Ricovero di Mendicità) and the _Botanic Garden_ (Thurs. 4–7), both containing remains of antique _Irrigation Works_, which are continued on the cliffs to the N.W. of the old town. Close by is the ancient NECROPOLIS of Carales. Nearest the town are the Punic tomb-chambers, sunk perpendicularly in the rock (care should be taken here), and farther to the W. are the mostly horizontal Roman tombs. From the ruined castle of _San Michele_, at the top of a hill about 2 M. to the N. of the Piazza d’Armi (p. 145), we overlook the _Stagno di Cagliari_ (p. 144) and the _Campidano_, a fruitful, but fever-stricken plain between the bays of Cagliari and Oristano (p. 129), where the clay-built villages and the cactus hedges recall N. Africa. See also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy._ The STEAMER on leaving the Gulf of Cagliari steers to the S.S.E.; astern we soon sight Cape Spartivento (p. 118), at the N.W. end of the gulf. For the voyage along the Tunisian coast, and for _Tunis_, see R. 21 and p. 329. Voyage from Tunis to _Algiers_, see R. 22; to _Tripoli_, see R. 64. 26. From Naples to Tunis viâ Palermo. FROM NAPLES TO PALERMO (193 M.). =1.= Steamers of the _Ferrovie dello Stato_ (Line C) daily in 9 hrs., at 10.45 p.m. (returning at 8.30 p.m.); fare 25 fr. 5 or 15 fr. 65 c.—=2.= _Società Nazionale_, Line XVI (see below) every Mon. evening in 12 hrs., and Lines X & XI every second Frid. aft. in 17¾ hrs. (fares 25 fr. 5, 15 fr. 65 c.).—=3.= _Adria Co._ (RR. 23, 24) every Thurs. afternoon, in 15 hrs.; fare 18 fr., without food.—=4.= _Lloyd Sabaudo_ 1–3 times monthly (comp. R. 24). Passengers, both going and coming, should rise early in order to enjoy the superb approaches to the bays of Palermo and Naples. FROM GENOA TO PALERMO DIRECT (494 M.) every Thurs. (returning on Wed.) by Line XXII (for Palermo, Trapani, Syracuse, and Catania) of the _Società Nazionale_ (fare 80 or 55 fr.). FROM PALERMO TO TUNIS (217 M.). =1.= _Società Nazionale_: =a.= Line XVI (from Naples, see above), leaving Palermo Tues. aft., Trapani Tues. evening, arrives at Tunis Wed. morning (returning from Tunis Wed. night, from Trapani Thurs. morning, from Palermo Thurs. evening, arr. at Naples Frid. morning); fare from Palermo to Tunis 64 fr. 25 or 43 fr. 25 c.; =b.= Line XVII, from Palermo to Pantelleria and Tunis (small cargo-boats), calling at Castellammare del Golfo, Trapani, Favignana, Marsala, Mazzara, Sciacca, and the island of Pantelleria; dep. from Palermo Thurs. morning, from Mazzara (reached also by railway, 89 M. in 4¼ hrs.; 18 fr. 25, 12 fr. 80, or 8 fr. 30 c.) Frid. afternoon (landing or embarkation in fine weather only), arr. at Tunis Sat. evening (returning from Tunis on Sun. evening, arr. at Mazzara on Mon. evening, and at Palermo Tues. night; fare from Mazzara 73 fr. or 50 fr. 35 c.)—=2.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), cargo-steamer from Palermo to Tunis direct (coming from Marseilles, R. 21), on Wed. noon, in 18 hrs. (returning Thurs. at noon); fare 60 or 40 fr.—Combined tickets (Naples-Palermo-Tunis) are available by either of the two companies’ boats. Agents at Naples, Palermo, and Tunis, see pp. 137, 148, 331. Naples, see p. 135. The bay is usually quitted at night. We proceed to the S.S.W., through the _Bocca Grande_ (p. 133). After about 1¼ hr. we skirt the rocky W. coast of _Capri_ (p. 154). Towards morning appears to the S.W. the island of _Ustĭca_ (784 ft.), which was visited by an earthquake in March 1906; to the S.E. in clear weather are seen _Filicuri_ (2543 ft.; Greek _Phoinikusa_) and _Alicuri_ (2175 ft.; the ancient _Ericusa_), the westmost of the _Lipari Islands_ (p. 155); beyond lies the N. coast of _Sicily_, from _Cape Gallo_ (p. 152) and the finely shaped _Monte Pellegrino_ (p. 151) to the _Madoníe Mts._ (6480 ft.), snow-clad in winter. [Illustration: PALERMO] A scene of striking beauty is revealed as we steam into the *_Bay of Palermo_, which opens towards the E., between Monte Pellegrino and the smaller pointed headland of _Monte Catalfano_ (1237 ft.), backed by a circus of grand mountains, _Monte Cuccio_ (3448 ft.), _Monte Grifone_ (2550 ft.), and others. After passing between the harbour piers, the _Antemurale_ on the S. and the _Molo_ (lighthouse) on the N., we observe on the left the shallow old harbour of _La Cala_ (p. 149) with the ruined fort of _Castellammare_. * * * * * =Palermo.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers from Naples are berthed at the new Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5); in the case of the others landing or embarkation is effected by boat (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.). The custom-house examination is slight. Porter (facchino) for hand-bag 10, trunk 50 c.—From the pier to the town ca. ¾ M. (tramway No. 1, see below). Omnibuses or motor-cars from the hotels await steamers at the pier. Cabs, see below. =Hotels= (most frequented Feb.-April). *VILLA IGIEA, ¼ hr. to the N. of the quay, at the Acquasanta terminus of tramways Nos. 1 & 7, near the sea, with park, casino, and fine view, R. from 8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, omn. 3 fr.; *EXCELSIOR PALACE (Pl. e; G, 2), Via della Libertà, near the Giardino Inglese, good restaur., R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; *HÔT. DES PALMES (Pl. a; E, 3), Via Stabile 103, R. 4–12, B. 1½, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; three houses of the first class, closed in summer. The following, also of the first class, are open throughout the year. *HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. c; C, 5), near the Giardino Garibaldi, R. 4–10, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; *TRINACRIA (Pl. b; C, 5), with sea view, entrance in Via Butera, R. from 4, B. 1½, D. 5, omn. 1½ fr.; SAVOY (Pl. g; E, 3), Via Cavour, R. from 3, D. 4½, omn. 1–1½ fr.; PANORMUS (Pl. k; E, 3, 4), Via Michele Amari 11, R. from 2½, B. 1¼, déj. 2½, D. 3½ fr.—Less pretending (open all the year round): MILANO (Pl. f; F, 3), Via Emerico Amari 114, R. from 3½, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; ALBERGO VITTORIA (Pl. h; D, 4), Via Bandiera 31, and CENTRAL (Pl. d; C, 3), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 343, R. from 2 fr., both with restaurant; PATRIA (Pl. i; B, 4), Via Alloro 96 (view from roof-terrace), CAVOUR, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 330, both hôtels garnis (R. from 1½ fr.). =Restaurants= (Italian cooking; à la carte). _Gran Caffè Nuovo_, in the Teatro Biondo (Pl. C, 4), _Restaurant de Paris_, Via Maqueda 200, both good. Plainer: _Vanini_, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 405; _Ristorante Napoli_, same street, No. 265; _Ristorante Bologni_, same street, No. 381. =Cafés= (rarely frequented in the morning). _Caffè del Teatro Massimo_ (p. 151); _Trinacria_, Quattro Canti di Campagna (Pl. E, 3); _Caflisch_, Via Maqueda 250; _Café Italia_, Via Cavour.—_English Tea Rooms_, Piazza Marina 41.—BEER. _Gran Caffè Nuovo_ (see above); _Trinacria_ (see above); _Gambrinus_, Teatro Massimo. =Cabs.= For 1–4 pers., within Via Lincoln, Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, and Piazza Ucciardone, per drive 50 c., from midnight to dawn 1 fr.; to outer quarters, drive under ½ hr., also to the quay or the railway-stations 1 fr.; from midnight to dawn 1 fr. 50 c.: one hour 1 fr. 80 c., each addit. ¼ hr. 40 c.—Hand-bag 20, trunk 40 c.—Driving in the inner city on Good Friday prohibited.—For long drives a bargain should be made; thus, to Monreale (p. 152), with stay of 1½ hr., 7–8 (or out of season 4–6) fr. =Tramways= (within the city 10, transfer 15 c.). Among the chief are: =1.= From _Piazza Marina_ (Pl. C, 5) to Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. E, F, 4), Piazza Ucciardone (Pl. G, 4), and _Acquasanta_ (Villa Igiea).—=4.= From _Porta Maqueda_ (Pl. D, E, 3), to Via Francesco Crispi, Piazza Ucciardone, and _Falde_ (p. 151).—=7.= From _Piazza Marina_ to Via Lincoln (Pl. B, A, 6–4; Central Station), Corso Tukery, Piazza dell’ Indipendenza (Pl. B, 1), Corso Alberto Amedeo (Pl. B-D, 1), Politeama Garibaldi (Pl. F, 3), and _Acquasanta_ (Villa Igiea).—=9.= From _Piazza Bologni_ (Pl. C, 3) to Piazza dell’ Indipendenza, Rocca (p. 152), and _Monreale_ (p. 152), every ½ hr., in 35 min.; fare 40 (back 30) c.—Above Rocca (gradient ca. 1 in 8) there is a funicular section 1100 yds. long. =Post Office.= (Pl. C, 3), Piazza Bologni.—=Telegraph. Office= (Pl. C, 3), Via Maqueda 222; also in the Piazza Marina. =Steamboat Lines.= _Società Nazionale_, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 96, corner of Piazza Marina; _Ferrovie dello Stato_ (steamer service), J. & V. Florio, Via Roma; _Navigation Mixte_ and _White Star_, A. Tagliavia, same street, No. 51; _Austro-American_ (p. 425), A. Lauria; _Cunard_, Piazza Marina 13; _Anchor Line_, E. G. Orr (see below). =Banks.= _Banca Commerciale_, _d’Italia_, and _di Sicilia_, all in Corso Vittorio Emanuele.—_Thos. Cook & Son_, same street, No. 155. =Consuls.= British, _R. G. Macbean_, Via Francesco Crispi; vice-consul, _W. A. Morrison_.—United States, _H. De Soto_, Piazza Castelnuovo 44.—=Lloyd’s Agent=, _E. G. Orr_, Piazza Marina. =English Church.= _Holy Cross_ (‘Anglicana’; Pl. E, 3, 4), Via Stabile; services every Sun. at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. in winter. ONE DAY AND A HALF is the minimum time for a glance at the sights. 1st. In the forenoon, _Cappella Palatina_ (p. 149), _San Giovanni degli Eremiti_ (p. 150); _Cathedral_ (p. 149), _Martorana_ (p. 150), _Museum_ (p. 150); in the afternoon (best in the early morning in summer), _Monte Pellegrino_ (p. 151); in summer, towards evening, _Villa Giulia_ and the _Marina_ (p. 151).—2nd. In the forenoon, _Monreale_ (p. 152). _Palermo_, the capital of Sicily, with 250,000 inhab., the seat of an archbishop and a university, lies on the beautiful bay named after it, in the midst of the _Conca d’Oro_, a fertile plain artificially watered, and yielding oranges, lemons, mandarins, and other fruits in profusion. Palermo is also the chief seaport in the island, whence fruit, wine, sumach, and the sulphur of S. Sicily (79% of the world’s consumption) are largely exported. The city, the _Panormus_ of antiquity, began its career as a Phœnician colony; it next became the capital of the island under the Carthaginian domination, but was conquered by the Romans in 254 B. C. Next came the Ostrogoths and the Byzantines, who were succeeded by the Aglabides and Fatimites (p. 323), who again made the town the capital of the island under the name of _Balerm_, and opened up Sicily to Moorish culture. When Palermo became the residence of its Norman conquerors (1072–1194) they erected castles and churches, partly employing Arabian architects and artificers, whose work shows a charming blend of Byzantine, Arabian, and Oriental features. Later, as the favourite seat of the Hohenstaufen (1194–1266), Palermo attained the zenith of its glory. The old town, however, owes its architectural character to the Spanish viceroys (16–17th cent.), who chose it as their residence in spite of the protests of Messina. Since the union of Sicily with the kingdom of Italy (1860) there has been a great revival of building enterprise, with the result that broad streets and villa-suburbs have sprung up, particularly on the N. side of the old town. From the Santa Lucia Pier (Pl. G, 4, 5) we enter the old town by the Via Francesco Crispi (Pl. F, E, 4; tramway No. 1, see p. 147), leading to the old Porta San Giorgio (Pl. E, 4). The Via Cavour diverges here to the right to the old Porta Maqueda (p. 151); we turn to the left, cross the Piazza del Castello (Pl. D, 5), pass the old Fort Castellammare, and skirt the Cala (p. 147), or old harbour, a little beyond which is the— PIAZZA MARINA (Pl. C, 5), where the beautiful *_Giardino Garibaldi_ recalls the tropics with its luxuriant vegetation. A little to the N.E. of the Giardino is the Porta Felice (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. 151), from which to the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. 150), over 1 M. distant, runs the CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE, intersecting the whole of the old town. This long street owes its present form to Don Pedro de Toledo (p. 138), but having been for centuries the route from the harbour to the castle, it has retained its old popular name of _Cássaro_ (from the Arabic _kasr_, castle). At the _Quattro Canti_ (Pl. C, 3), the old business centre of the city, the Corso is crossed by the VIA MAQUEDA (Pl. A-D, 4, 3; p. 151), begun by the viceroy Marqués de Villena in 1609, and now a second important artery of the old town. The Corso leads to the Piazza del Duomo, on the N. side of which rises the— *=Cathedral= (Pl. C, 2), dedicated to the _Assunta_, on the site of an older church which the Moors had converted into a mosque. The original Romanesque building, erected by Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio Offamilio) after 1185, has been entirely transformed in the course of centuries, with the exception of the lower part of the clock-tower and the external decoration of the choir niche. The handsome W. façade with the two towers which date from 1300–59, the incongruous dome, and the modernized internal decorations are the work of the Florentine _Fern. Fuga_ (1781–1801). The right aisle, on the left of the S. portal, contains the *Monuments of Norman and Hohenstaufen monarchs. At the S.W. end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, beyond the Piazza della Vittoria (Pl. B, 2), on a slight eminence, which from the earliest times has been the site of the castle, rises the— =Palazzo Reale= (Pl. B, 1), which still bears traces of its original fortified character, although the foundation walls alone are Arabian, and the central tower with the pointed arch (Santa Ninfa, p. 150) is the only relic of the Norman part of the building. The last door on the left, opposite the monument of Philip V., leads into the palace-yard (sticks and umbrellas are left with the porter; guide ½ fr., but quite unnecessary). We ascend the stairs to the left, on the first floor turn to the right, and pass through the arcaded passage to the— **_Cappella Palatina_, a perfect gem of mediæval art, built by king Roger II. in 1132–40 in the Arabic-Norman style (adm. daily 7 to 10.30 free; later, week-days till 4, Sun. till 3, fee; best light in the morning). In the interior the chapel is a basilica with two aisles; including the choir and apse it is 36 yds. long and 14 yds. in breadth. The Arabian pointed arches are borne by ten antique columns; the central dome, 59 ft. high, is adorned with Greek and Latin inscriptions. The beautiful Arabian timber ceiling in the nave, with its Cufic (early Arabic) inscription, is joined to the walls by stalactite vaulting. All the walls are incrusted with glass-mosaics on a gold ground. The palace-tower, _Santa Ninfa_, now an observatory, is famed for the delightful panorama it affords (fee ½–1 fr.; not always accessible). The top of the _Porta Nuova_ (Pl. B, 1), close by, also overlooks the city and the Conca d’Oro. Descending the steps by the monument of Philip V., we now follow the Via del Bastione a Porta di Castro and the Via dei Benedettini to the ruined church of *_San Giovanni degli Eremiti_ (Pl. A, B, 1, 2; adm. by the garden-gate; fee 25 c.). The interior is in the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (p. 376), with three apses. The nave is divided into two squares by a pointed arch. Quite an Oriental effect is produced by the five unadorned domes, which are best viewed from the pretty cloisters (now a garden). Adjoining the S. side of the church is a dilapidated little mosque. We now return to the Quattro Canti (p. 149) and turn to the right into the Via Maqueda. Here, immediately on the right, is the _University_ (Pl. C, 3); on the left is the _Palazzo di Città_ or _Municipio_. Just beyond the latter is the small Piazza Bellini, whence steps ascend to two old Norman churches (adm. daily 9–4, 1 fr.; Sun. free). The smaller, _San Cataldo_, of 1161, is crowned with Arabian pinnacles. Still more curious is the larger church— *_La Martorana_ (Pl. B, C, 4), named after its founder, the Greek admiral of Roger I. (1143), and known also as Santa Maria dell’ Ammiraglio, a Byzantine edifice with Norman additions, now suitably restored. The two lower stories of the clock-tower are part of the original church. From the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a little to the E. of the Quattro Canti, runs the new Via Roma (Pl. C, D, 4) to the N.N.W. to the Piazza San Domenico. On the E. side of this piazza rises the large church of _San Domenico_ (Pl. D, 4), containing monuments to many eminent Sicilians.—Behind the church, in the Via Bambinai, is the _Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario_ (keys at No. 16, adjacent), containing a fine Madonna del Rosario by A. van Dyck. From the Piazza San Domenico the Via Monteleone leads to the N.W. to the Piazza dell’ Olivella, where an old monastery on the right contains the— =Museo Nazionale= (Pl. D, 3; week-days 10–3, 1 fr.; Sun. 11–3, free, but not fully shown; closed on high festivals, on the last three days of the Carnival, and in Holy Week). GROUND FLOOR. From the Primo Cortile, containing mediæval and Renaissance portals, sculptures, and inscriptions, we enter the Secondo Cortile (once the cloisters), where ancient sculptures and inscriptions are exhibited, on the left Sicilian, on the right those of foreign or uncertain origin. From the vestibule, beyond the cloisters, we pass through a small room, containing two Phœnician sarcophagi found near Palermo, to the Sala di Panormo, with mosaics and inscriptions from Panormus, and opposite to it the Sala del Fauno, so named from the fine satyr in the style of Praxiteles which it contains. The adjoining Sala di Selinunte contains the celebrated *Metopes of Selinus (p. 154). On the left, between parts of the ponderous entablature of the oldest temple, are three rude and primitive metopes of the beginning of the 6th cent. B. C. (quadriga, beheading of Medusa, Hercules and the Cercopes); then the lower halves of two metopes, dating from about the middle of the 6th cent. (battle of the gods and the giants); on the back-wall four metopes of the early 5th cent., a period just before the prime of Greek art (Hercules slaying the queen of the Amazons, Hera unveiling herself before Zeus, Actæon torn to pieces by the dogs of Artemis, Athene slaying a giant). The stairs in the forecourt ascend to the— FIRST FLOOR. The steps to the left lead to the Sala Arăba, which contains Arabian and Arab-Norman antiquities found in Sicily (door-frame from the Martorana monastery, earthenware vase from Mazzara) and early Arabian objects from Cairo. The Corridoio di Ponente contains painted female figures (4th–3rd cent. B. C.), similar to the terracottas of Tanagra. Beyond the cloisters is the room of the ancient bronzes, among which we note a fountain-group of Hercules and the Cerynæan hind, from Pompeii, and a ram marvellously lifelike. Next come two rooms on the left with Greek vases. From the corridor on the opposite side we enter the Gabinetto di Numismatica, an admirable collection of the ancient coins of Sicily and of antique trinkets. The last room contains gorgeous church vestments. On the SECOND FLOOR is the Gallery of Pictures, chiefly by Sicilian masters (_Pietro Novelli_ and others); a small winged altar-piece by _Jan Mabuse_ (1501?), a gem of Netherlandish art, should, however, be noted. From the Museum the Via della Bara leads to the W. to the PIAZZA GIUSEPPE VERDI (Pl. D, 3), in which rises the _Teatro Massimo_ or _Vittorio Emanuele_, the largest in Italy.—At the N. end of the Via Maqueda (p. 149) is the old Porta Maqueda (Pl. D, E, 3), whence the Via Ruggiero Settimo leads into the broad— VIA DELLA LIBERTÀ (Pl. F, G, 3, 2), a fashionable evening promenade, ending at the pretty _Giardino Inglese_ (Pl. G, H, 2). The MARINA, officially named _Foro Umberto Primo_ (Pl. C, B, 6), which begins at the _Porta Felice_ (Pl. C, 5, 6; p. 149), near the harbour, affords a superb walk and is a favourite resort on summer evenings after 6 (music at 9). At the S. end of the Marina lies the *=Villa Giulia= or _Flora_ (Pl. A, B, 6), one of the most beautiful public gardens in Italy, where the blossoming trees diffuse their fragrance in spring far around. It is adjoined on the W. by the *_Botanic Garden_ (Pl. A, B, 6; gardener 25–50 c.), almost vying with the famous Jardin d’Essai at Algiers (p. 232). A visit to *=Monte Pellegrino= (1968 ft.), the ancient _Heirkte_, a bare limestone hill to the N. of Palermo, should not be omitted in clear weather. (Tramway No. 4 to _Falde_, near the S. foot of the hill, see p. 147; donkey, ordered in the town beforehand, with attendant, 4 fr.) The zigzag path, visible from the town, ascends in about 1½ hr. from the Punta di Bersaglio, 5 min. to the N. of Falde, to the _Grotto of St. Rosalia_ (d. about 1170), which has been well described by Goethe. Near it are a cottage, where bread and wine may be obtained (bargaining advisable), and the restaurant _Argos-Eden_ (open only on Sun.). A steep footpath ascends thence in ½ hr. to the _Telégrafo_, the signal-station on the summit, where we enjoy a *View of the beautiful basin of Palermo, of the indented N. coast of Sicily, and of the Lipari Islands (p. 146). To the E., beyond the Madoníe (p. 146) and the distant Nebrodian Mts., towers Mt. Ætna. MONREALE (tramway No. 9 and carr., see pp. 147, 148) is reached from the Porta Nuova (Pl. B, 1; p. 150) by the Corso Calatafími. Beyond (3 M.) _La Rocca_ the road ascends to the (¾ hr.) top of the ‘royal hill’ (1148 ft.). The town of =Monreale= (Restaur. Savoy, Eden; pop. 24,000) owes its origin to a Benedictine abbey, founded by William II. (1174), and to the famous cathedral (1174–89) built here as the seat of the second archbishopric in the island. The **_Cathedral_ is a Norman Romanesque basilica consisting of nave, aisles, and three apses, 335 ft. long and 131 ft. wide. Externally the choir end of the church, with its Arabian pointed arches and mosaic decoration, is particularly fine. The magnificent main portal, flanked in northern style with two square towers, has two admirable bronze doors by ‘Bonannus Civis Pisanus’ (1186). The doors of the side-portal are by Barisano. The pointed arches of the nave rest on granite columns, and all the walls are lavishly decorated with glass mosaics. The roof (172 steps; verger, who shows the chapels also, 50–75 c.) commands a splendid view. Of the Benedictine monastery nothing is now left except the *_Cloisters_, the pointed arches of which are adorned with mosaics and borne by 216 columns in pairs, remarkable for the variety of their capitals and for the inlaid ornamentation of their shafts (date ca. 1200). Entrance (1 fr.) from the Piazza del Duomo by the side-door to the left. The custodian shows also the garden of the monastery, where we have a charming view of Palermo. See also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy_. * * * * * Pursuing our VOYAGE TO TUNIS we soon obtain a fine view of the bold limestone rocks of _Monte Pellegrino_ (p. 151). We next pass the beautiful _Bay of Mondello_ and the _Cape Gallo_ and steer to the W., away from the Sicilian coast and the _Gulf of Castellammare_. That spacious gulf is bounded on the E. by the _Punta di Raisi_, a spur of _Monte Orso_ (2900 ft.), and on the W. by the mountains of _San Vito_ (_Monte Sparagio_ and others). Beyond _Cape San Vito_ (lighthouse) appear to the _S.W. Monte San Giuliano_ (see below) and the _Ægadean Islands_. The French steamers bound for Tunis direct pass near these islands; first _Lévanzo_ (951 ft.; ancient _Phorbantia_), beyond which to the S. is _Favignana_ (1070 ft.; ancient _Ægusa_), the largest of the group; then _Marittimo_ (ancient _Hiera_), with _Monte Falcone_ (2245 ft.). The Italian steamer coming from Naples rounds _Monte San Giuliano_ (2464 ft.), a solitary mass of Jurassic rock, the ancient _Eryx_, famed for its temple of Venus Erycina, and highly revered by all the Mediterranean peoples, and next calls at— =Trápani= (Grand-Hôtel, on the quay; landing or embarkation, without baggage, 60 c.; Brit. vice-consul, G. Marino), the ancient _Drepana_ (from _drepanon_, a sickle), so called from the form of the peninsula. Down to the first Punic war this was merely the port of the ancient _Eryx_, but it is now a thriving commercial place (pop. 38,000). The chief export is the sea-salt yielded by the extensive evaporation grounds on the W. coast, towards Marsala. The coral-fishery also is an important industry. The Naples steamer next passes through the strait between the islands of _Levanzo_ and _Favignana_ (see above) and the flat W. coast of Sicily, and then steers to the S.W. through the _Straits of Pantelleria_ (p. 396), between Favignana and the _Isola Grande_, towards _Cape Bon_ (Arabic _Râs Addar_, the Roman _Promontorium Mercurii_), the E. boundary of the _Bay of Tunis_ (p. 129). High up on this bold headland stands a lighthouse (410 ft.), visible for 32 M. around, one of the most important landmarks for mariners between Gibraltar and Egypt. Beyond the cape rises _Jebel Abiod_ (1273 ft.), with its semaphore. The islands to the W. are _Zembretta_ and _Zembra_ or _Jamur_ (1420 ft.; the ancient _Ægimurus_). The great quarries near _El-Aouaria_ (the ancient _Aquilaria_), between Cape Bon and the _Râs el-Ahmar_ (318 ft.) yielded the Phœnicians the material for building Carthage. We next pass the _Anse de Thonaire_, with its important tunny-fishery (Ital. _tonnara_), and the _Râs al-Fortas_. The steamers usually enter the _Inner Bay of Tunis_ and _Lake Bahira_ in the early morning. _Tunis_, see p. 329. The ITALIAN CARGO-STEAMERS (p. 146) first touch at _Castellammare del Golfo_, then proceed to _Trapani_ (see above), where they spend the night. They next pass _Favignana_ (see above), _Isola Grande_, the lagoon of _Lo Stagnone_, and _Capo Boeo_ or _Lilibeo_, the W. extremity of Sicily. =Marsála= (Albergo Centrale; Leone; Stella d’Italia; landing or embarkation 60 c.; with heavy baggage 1½ fr.; Brit. vice-consul, Chas. F. Gray; pop. 58,000) is a busy trading town, well known for its fiery wines. It occupies the site of _Lilybaeum_, the chief fortress of Carthage in Sicily. The modern name is of Moorish origin (_Marsa-Ali_, harbour of Ali). Skirting the monotonous S.W. coast of Sicily the vessel next calls at =Mazzara del Vallo= (Alb. Centrale; Alb. Stella; Brit. vice-consul, O. Favara), founded as _Mazara_ by the Greeks of Selinus, but destroyed along with its mother-city by the Carthaginians in 409 B. C. Beyond Mazzara we pass the _Punta di Granítola_, the _Râs el-Belât_ of the Moors, who in 827 began their victorious progress through the island, and the broad bay of _Selinunte_ (_Selinus_), where the grandest ruined temples in Europe are situated. Beyond _Cape San Marco_ we come to— =Sciacca= (Nuova Italia; pop. 25,000), a seaport situated on a steep hill, 262 ft. above the sea, with its mouldering castles of mediæval nobility. The name was originally Arabic, _Shâkkah_. In ancient times it was called _Thermae Selinuntiae_, from the already famous vapour-baths in the caverns at the foot of _Monte San Calógero_ (1272 ft.) and the hot salt-springs (132° Fahr.). The steamer next steers to the W.S.W. through the _Straits of Pantelleria_ (p. 396), at a little distance from the shallows where the volcanic _Isola Ferdinandea_, 4–5 M. in circumference, rose from the sea with a crater, on 18th July, 1831, but disappeared on 12th Jan., 1832. On the margin of the shallower water, in a great submarine basin 3900 ft. deep, lies the island of =Pantelleria=, also belonging to Italy. Its chief town, off which the steamer anchors for some hours, is on the N.W. side. This volcanic island, 32 sq. M. in area, culminates in an extinct crater 2743 ft. in height, while numerous ‘fumaroli’, or smoking and steaming fissures, and hot mineral springs testify to a continuous volcanic activity. This was further indicated by a submarine eruption which occurred in 1891, within 3 M. of the island to the N.W. The steamer afterwards rounds _Cape Bon_ (p. 153) and follows the same course to Tunis as the larger passenger steamers. 27. From Naples to Syracuse (_Malta_, _Tunis_, _Tripoli_) viâ Messina and Catania. FROM NAPLES TO MESSINA (204 M.). =1.= Steamers of the _Ferrovie dello Stato_ (Line D), leave Naples Sun. evening, arr. at Messina Mon. morning (at Reggio at noon; returning from Reggio same afternoon and from Messina same evening); fares 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 70 c.—=2.= _Società Nazionale_: =a.= Line XX (Linea Circolare, see pp. 134, 142), dep. from Naples Sat. aft., arr. at Messina Sun. morning (returning from Messina Wed. aft.); =b.= Line V (Genoa-Alexandria; p. 134), dep. from Naples Thurs. aft., arr. at Messina Frid. morning (returning from Messina Sun. evening); fares by these two lines 22 fr. 85, 14 fr. 70 c.; c. Lines X & XI, fortnightly from Naples viâ Palermo (comp. p. 146) to Messina (fares 50 fr. 10, 33 fr. 40 c.). FROM NAPLES TO CATANIA (258 M.), the Linea Circolare (see below); also the _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean-Levant; RR. 23, 24) every second Mon. (from Catania Tues.) in 16 hrs.; fare 36 or 24 marks. FROM MESSINA TO SYRACUSE (93 M.), only the Linea Circolare, dep. from Messina Sun. morning, arr. at Reggio same morning, at Catania Sun. afternoon, at Syracuse Mon. evening (returning from Syracuse Tues. forenoon, from Catania Tues. midnight, and leaving Messina for Naples on Wed. aft.). This steamer may be overtaken at Syracuse if we go by train from Messina to Syracuse (comp. p. 158), in which case there will be time to spend a night at Taormina and see the sunset and sunrise. At Syracuse a drive through the old town should not be omitted (comp. p. 162). _Naples_, see p. 135. Steering across the bay towards the _Peninsula of Sorrento_, we enjoy a delightful retrospect of _Mt. Vesuvius_ and the hills around Naples. Farther on we admire the bold rocky N. coast of the island of _Capri_. After 1¼ hr. we pass through the _Bocca Piccola_, a strait 3 M. in breadth, between the huge cliffs of _Lo Capo_, the N.E. point of Capri, and the _Punta di Campanella_ (154 ft.; lighthouse), the extremity of the peninsula of Sorrento. [Illustration: MESSINA] The steamboat now proceeds to the S.S.E. towards the straits of Messina. We have a fine view, in passing, of the _Punta Tragara_, the S.E. headland of Capri, with the cliffs of the _Faraglioni_, and of the precipitous _Monte Soláro_ (1920 ft.), the highest hill in the island. On our left lies the broad _Gulf of Salerno_, with the bays of _Positano_ and _Amalfi_ on the S. side of the peninsula of Sorrento. Conspicuous among the Neapolitan Apennines are the spurs of _Monte Stella_ (3708 ft.) with the _Punta Licosa_, and of _Monte Bulgheria_ (4016 ft.) with _Cape Palinuro_ (lighthouse). At length, far off the coast of _Calabria_, we sight to the S. the volcanic _Lipari_ or _Æolian Islands_, the ancient _Liparaeae_ or _Æoliae_. We pass close to _Strómboli_, the _Strongyle_ of the Greeks, which the ancients regarded as the seat of Æolus, god of the winds. This island culminates in a peak (3038 ft.) with a crater on its N. side, often shrouded in smoke, which is one of the few constantly active volcanoes in Europe. To the S.W. we descry in clear weather _Panária_ (1381 ft.), with its archipelago of smaller islands; _Lípari_, the largest of the group with _Monte Sant’Angelo_ (1955 ft.); and _Vulcano_ with its ever smoking crater (1638 ft.). Off _Cape Vaticano_ (lighthouse), a spur of the Calabrian coast-hills between the bays of _Sant’Eufemia_ and _Gioia_, we sight the N. coast of Sicily, with the _Monti Peloritani_, the _Myconius Mons_ or _Mons Neptuni_ of the Romans, overtopped by _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159). On the Calabrian coast, near the strait which was the chief scene of the earthquake of 1908 (p. 156), appear the ruins of the little town of _Palmi_, halfway up _Monte Elia_ (1900 ft.; a famous point of view), and those of _Bagnara_ and of _Scilla_ with its castle-rock. The *Voyage through the _Straits of Messina_ (Faro or Stretto di Messina), the _Fretum Siculum_ of antiquity, is one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. Both banks are luxuriantly fertile, shaded with palms, and yielding oranges, pomegranates, and prickly pears. The Calabrian coast, thickly studded with villages, partly in ruins, culminates in _Montalto_ (5424 ft.), the highest peak of the wooded _Aspromonte_, the ancient _Sila_, while we survey the Sicilian coast as far as _Mt. Ætna_. The narrowest part of the straits, 2 M., is between the _Punta del Faro_ (p. 158) and the _Punta Pezzo_, where they are entered from the _Tyrrhenian Sea_; between Messina and Villa San Giovanni (p. 159) they are 4½ M., and between _Capo di Scaletta_ (p. 158) and the _Punta di Péllaro_ (p. 159) in the _Ionian Sea_ 8¾ M. wide. The currents which sweep past the headland of Scilla (see above) and cause strong eddies near the harbour of Messina, sometimes augmented by gales, gave rise at a very early period to the legend of Scylla and Charybdis, and Homer has described Scylla as a roaring, all-devouring sea-monster. We pass the lighthouses of the Punta del Faro and the Punta di Pezzo. Nearing the _Harbour of Messina_, in a bay formed by a sickle-shaped peninsula, we survey the ruins of the city on the green slopes of the Monti Peloritani (p. 155), whose fissured peaks tower above the sea of houses, once so picturesque. The central point of the earthquake of Messina (28th Dec., 1908), caused by dislocation or subsidence, was the strait and the W. slope of Aspromonte (p. 155). The first terrific shock at 5 a.m. was followed almost immediately by a great tidal wave caused by a submarine earthquake, and aggravating the calamity in the lower parts of the coast towns and villages. The effects of the earthquake were disastrous also in Calabria as far to the N. as Cosenza, and in Sicily as far to the S. as Pachino (near Cape Passero; p. 411). At Messina the sea-wave rose to a height of 8–9 ft., at Reggio 11½ ft., and at Giardini and Riposto 19½–20 ft. The area of the seismic disturbance extended to the N.E. to Pizzo on the bay of Sant’Eufemia (p. 155), to the E. to the mouth of the Amendolea, near Cape Spartivento and the small town of Ferruzzano, the scene of the earthquake of 1907, and to the S. to Riposto (p. 158). It was estimated that 96,000 persons lost their lives. The value of the buildings destroyed amounted to about 6,500,000_l._ * * * * * =Messina.=—ARRIVAL. Landing or embarkation 1 fr., or without baggage 50 c., but bargain advisable. Passengers are landed at the quay (Approdo Ferry-boats) adjoining the old Stazione Porto, where, in connection with the express from Naples (steam-ferry from Villa San Giovanni), express trains to Catania and Palermo are in waiting. HOTELS (inquiries should be made as to prices), all with the exception of the Excelsior built of wood and very fair. _Gr.-Hôt. Regina Elena_, Viale Roosevelt, to the E. of Viale San Martino, in an open situation commanding fine views, to be opened in 1911; _Grand-Hôtel_, R. 4½–5, B. 1¼ fr.; _Excelsior_, R. 4–10, B. 1½ fr.; _Belvedere_, R. 2½–3½ fr., these three in the Viale San Martino; _Venezia_, Piazza Cavallotti. CAB per drive 60 (with luggage 80) c., at night 1 fr.; by time, 2 fr. for the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. for each addit. hour; to the Punta del Faro 6–7 fr. POST OFFICE, Viale San Martino.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE in the piazza of the chief station. TOURIST AGENCY. _Mrs. Pearce_, Via Primo Settembre, opposite the railway-station. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _J. B. Heynes_. The town of _Messina_ was like Reggio completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1908 (comp. above) and has now only 80,000 inhab. as against 110,000 in 1908. Notwithstanding this catastrophe it was finally decided in autumn 1909 to rebuild the town on its former site. Its harbour, one of the best in the Mediterranean, the third in importance in Sicily, sustained no damage and has even now a very brisk trade (1908: 3589 vessels of 2,598,647 tons burden; 1910: 3148 vessels of 2,050,733 tons burden). The great charm of Messina consists in the beauty of its environs and the views they afford, particularly of the Calabrian coast by evening light. Originally named _Zancle_ (_i.e._ sickle), Messina was one of the earliest of the Greek colonies in Sicily, having been founded about 730 B.C. Early in the 5th cent. it was occupied by new colonists from the Messenian Reggio (p. 159) and called _Messana_. From the earliest times the Messenians took a leading part in almost all the political agitations in the island. In 228 the Mamertines, disbanded mercenaries of Agathocles (p. 163), treacherously seized the town and soon afterwards invoked the aid of the Romans against Hannibal, thus directly giving rise to the first Punic war. For a time Messina enjoyed the special favour of the Romans, and even of Verres, the notorious proconsul, but when it became the naval base of Pompey, in 36 B.C., it was plundered by the soldiers of Octavian. From the period of the Crusades, by which Sicily was partly affected, date the privileges which made Messina a kind of free city and the seat of the Sicilian opposition to foreign domination. The failure of its war against Spain (1672–8), notwithstanding the help of French troops sent by Louis XIV. and two naval victories won by Admiral Duquesne over the Spanish-Dutch fleet under De Ruyter (1676), caused the downfall of the city. Terrible pestilences (the plague in 1740 and cholera in 1854), severe earthquakes (in 1783 and 1894), and the bombardment of the town by the Neapolitan fleet (in 1818) had already seriously injured Messina prior to its recent appalling calamity. The ruins extend along the shore to the N., from the ‘sickle’ of the harbour and the citadel, to the _Giardino a Mare_, under whose plane-trees is a _Camp_ for the destitute. The _Citadel_ itself, with its broad moats and its bastions, is still standing. On the Marina or Corso Vittorio Emanuele (formerly called also _La Palazzata_) are still seen several palatial façades, interrupted by archways and passages leading to the parallel Via Garibaldi. These are mostly relics of a uniform row of palaces, erected after the earthquake of 1783. Opposite the ruined Palazzo Municipale rises the _Neptune Fountain_, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael Angelo (1557), with a colossal statue of Neptune between Scylla and Charybdis. Beyond the Via Garibaldi lies the Piazza del Duomo, with the almost intact _Orion Fountain_ by Montorsoli (1547–51), a point which may be reached direct from the Dogana by the Via Primo Settembre. The _Cathedral_ (la Matrice), founded by the Normans in 1098, is now, with the exception of the choir niche, a mass of ruins. The short Via Università degli Studi led to the S.E. from this piazza to the _University_, now also destroyed. A few paces to the S. of the University, in the coast-plain called the _Mosella_, between the _Torrente Portalegni_ and the _Torrente Zaera_, and beyond the ruins of the new quarters of the town, lies the main _Camp_ of wooden barracks for the homeless, flanking the Viale San Martino. A good survey of the ruins, as well as a superb view of the straits, is obtained from the old =Forte Castellaccio=, which, along with the modern forts, the barracks of the mountain-artillery, and the powder-magazine, has escaped destruction. The way to it (35–40 min.) is up the Torrente Portalegni close to ruined houses; we then skirt the Botanic Garden, cross the Piazza Venti Settembre occupied by barracks, and ascend straight on the steep Via Castellaccio. The beautiful EXCURSION TO THE PUNTA DEL FARO (cab, see p. 156; bargain advisable) affords a good survey of the devastated environs. The road leads from the Giardino a Mare (p. 157) and the camp called _Villaggio Regina Elena_, along the foot of the hills, past luxuriant orchards, and through the ruined fishing-villages of _Salvatore dei Greci_, _Paradiso_, and _Pace_; it then skirts two lagoons, the _Pantano Grande_, or _Lago di Ganzirri_, below the ruins of _Faro Superiore_, a village famed for its wine, and the _Pantano Piccolo_. On the _Punta del Faro_ or _Capo Peloro_ (once _Promontorium Pelorum_), the N.E. point of Sicily, are the ruins of the fishing-village of _Faro_ or _Torre del Faro_, and near it the quite intact =Lighthouse= (200 steps; keeper 50 c.), which commands a splendid *View of the Lipari Islands and the Calabrian coast as far as Cape Vaticano (comp. p. 155). FROM MESSINA TO SYRACUSE, 115 M., railway in 6¼–7 hrs.; fares 22 fr. 60, 15 fr. 85, 10 fr. 25 c. (journey may be broken once; to _Giardini-Taormina_, 30½ M., in 1½–2 hrs.). The quick trains start from Messina harbour (comp. p. 156); the morning train, which runs to Syracuse harbour, has a dining-car (déj. 2½ fr.). The train skirts the coast, affording fine views; it crosses the stony channels of several _torrenti_ or _flumare_, which are generally dry, and pierces a number of headlands by means of tunnels. 7½ M. _Galati_; 12 M. _Scaletta Zanclea_, with a picturesque castle, not far from the _Capo di Scaletta_; 15½ M. _Alì_, with sulphur-baths. Beyond the (23 M.) beautiful cape of _Sant’ Alessio_, with a deserted castle, we sight the headland of Taormina. 30½ M. _Giardini-Taormina_. The village of Giardini lies in a small bay, in a malarious region, 1¼ M. beyond the _Capo di Taormina_. Taormina is reached by road (3 M.), by a bridle-path, or by a steep footpath. (Diligence 1 fr.; down, 50 c.; carr. according to number of party, 2–5 fr.; heavy luggage had better be left at the station.) =Taormina= (673 ft.; San Domenico Palace Hotel, Hotel Castello a Mare, Timeo, International, Villa San Pancrazio, Metropole, all often crowded from 15th Jan. to April and closed in summer; plainer, San Giorgio, Victoria, Naumachia, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., Dr. S. Cacciola-Cartella; pop. 4000), the ancient _Tauromenium_, a highly picturesque little town, lies on the S.E. spurs of _Monte Venere_ (2900 ft.), and is overlooked by a ruined _Castle_ (1300 ft.) and by the village of _Mola_ (2083 ft.). Its chief attraction is the *_Ancient Theatre_, at the E. end of the town, which is open daily till dusk. Originally Greek it was entirely remodelled in the Roman period. The spectators’ area (_cavea_), almost wholly hewn in the rock, is 357 ft. in diameter, and the _orchestra_ (seats for persons of distinction) 115 ft.; the stage (_pulpitum_) is particularly well preserved. The *View from the site of the theatre is one of the most beautiful in Italy, especially in the morning, when the sun rises above Calabria or, in winter, from the sea, imparting a rosy hue to the snowy peak of Mt. Ætna (p. 159), and gilding the rocky heights beyond the theatre. Between Taormina and Catania the train crosses a number of the lava-streams descending from Mt. Ætna. On the northmost of these, near _Schisò_, between the bay of Giardini and the mouth of the _Alcántara_ (Arabic al-kántara, the bridge), lay Naxos, founded in 735 B. C., the oldest Greek colony in Sicily. 41 M. _Giarre-Riposto_, the station for the country-town of _Giarre_ and for the seaport of _Riposto_ which has a brisk trade in wine. It is also the starting-point of the railway round the W. side of Mt. Ætna (‘Ferrovia Circumetnéa’; 68½ M. in length). 51 M. _Acireale_ (525 ft.; Sicil. _Iaci_), a wealthy country-town built on several lava-streams and much frequented as a bathing-place on account of its mineral springs (sulphur, salt, and iodine).—Near (55½ M.) _Aci Castello_ we perceive on the left in the sea seven cliffs of columnar basalt, the _Scogli de’ Ciclopi_ or Islands of Cyclops, the rocks which according to Greek myth the blinded Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses. 59½ M. =Catania=, see p. 160. Running inland the train enters the _Piana di Catania_, the plain of the rivers _Simeto_ and _Gornalunga_, which is often flooded in winter. This was the region of the _Laestrygonian Fields_ of antiquity, extolled by Cicero as the ‘uberrima Siciliæ pars’, and still the granary of the island. To the right, beyond the _Monti Cartina_, in a malarious district lies the _Lago di Lentini_, the largest lake in Sicily. On the left, beyond (77½ M.) _Lentini_, Greek _Leontinoi_, is the swampy lagoon _Pantano di Carlentini_. We pass numerous salt-works and snow-white pyramids of sea-salt. 94 M. _Augusta_ (the ancient _Xiphonia_), a seaport with 16,000 inhab., lies in a site similar to that of Syracuse, on the N. margin of the _Bay of Megara_, which is bounded by the headlands of _Santa Croce_ and _Santa Panagia_ (p. 162). 98½ M. _Mégara Iblea_, not far from the site of the Greek colony of _Megara Hyblea_. On the left is the _Penisola Magnisi_, the ancient _Thapsos_, on the N. side of which lay the fleet of the Athenians during their expedition against Syracuse (p. 163). The train passes the small bay of _Trogilos_, where the fleet of Marcellus once anchored (p. 163), and a tunny-fishery (tonnara), runs through a cutting, and skirts the limestone plateau near Cape Santa Panagia. To the left we have a fine view of the sea and the modern town, and at length reach the (115 M.) harbour-station of _Syracuse_ (p. 162). * * * * * FROM MESSINA TO (8 M.) REGGIO, a delightful trip, especially by morning light, either by one of the steamers mentioned at p. 154 or by one of the ferry-boats (comp. p. 156). To the left, nearly opposite Messina, is the little town of _Villa San Giovanni_ (p. 155), now in ruins, as are also the villages of _Catona_, _Gallico_, _Archi_, and others farther to the S. =Reggio= (Alb. Veneto-Trentino, a temporary hotel-restaurant), before the earthquake of 1908 a town of 35,000 inhab., called _Reggio Calabria_ to distinguish it from Reggio in the Emilia, lies at the W. base of the _Aspromonte_ (p. 155). The ancient _Rhegium_, originally a Eubœan colony, but occupied by new Messenian settlers in 723 B.C., has been destroyed eight times in war and twice by earthquakes (1783 and 1908). Its last disaster was most appalling in the upper quarters. Along the shore and in the piazzas the survivors are now living in huts. The _Strada Reggio Campi_ above the town offers a beautiful view especially towards evening. On the VOYAGE TO CATANIA we enjoy a splendid view of the whole of the straits as far as the _Punta del Faro_ (p. 158), and later of the coast of Calabria from the _Punta di Pellaro_ (p. 155) to the _Capo dell’ Armi_. On the Sicilian coast rise the _Monti Peloritani_ (p. 155) and the majestic _Mt. Ætna_ (10,958 ft.; Ital. _Etna_), the highest volcano in Europe, with its countless minor craters and the great _Valle del Bove_, the remains of the enormous oldest crater, 3 M. broad, bounded by rocky slopes of 1900–3900 ft. in height. The view is specially striking beyond _Taormina_ (p. 158), and we obtain also a good idea of the volume and the direction of the old lava-streams. After sixteen years’ quiescence fresh flows of lava were emitted in the Valle del Bove in 1908 and from the volcano’s S. slope in 1910. Beyond _Acireale_ (p. 158) and _Cape Molini_, the N. limit of the broad _Bay of Catania_, we sight the _Scogli de’ Ciclopi_ (p. 159). As we enter the harbour of _Catania_ we have a fine view of the S. side of Ætna. * * * * * =Catania.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the _Nuovo Porto_ (Pl. F, G, 6), whence passengers are rowed (60 c.; with baggage 1 fr.) to the _Dogana_ (Pl. F, G, 5) in the _Porto Vecchio_, a harbour very much contracted by the lava-stream of 1669 (see below). HOTELS. *_Grande Bretagne_ (Pl. a; F, 4), Via Lincoln, R. 3½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; *_Bristol & du Globe_ (Pl. c; E, 4), Via Santa Maria del Rosario, R. 3½–6 B. 1½ déj. 3, D. 4½ fr.; _Centrale Europa_ (Pl. d; E, 5), cor. of the Piazza del Duomo and Via Raddusa, R. 2½–4, omn. ¾ fr., well spoken of; and others. RESTAURANTS. _Marconi_, Piazza Università 15, good; _Savoia_, Via Marletta 15, behind the Municipio.—_Caffè Tricomi_, Via Stesicoro Etnea 30; _Caffè Amato_, Via Stesicoro Etnea 151.—_Birreria Svizzera_, Via Stesicoro Etnea 139 (déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.), music in the evening, good. STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Società Nazionale_, Piazza Duca di Genova 18 (Pl. F, 5); _North German Lloyd_, Munzone, Mineo, & Co., same piazza, No. 3. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _W. A. Franck_.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. E, 4), Via Manzoni.—ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICES. TRAMWAYS. The chief line is from the railway-station (Stazione Sicula; Pl. H, 4) through Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza del Duomo (Pl. E, 5); then to the N. through Via Stesicoro Etnea to the ‘Ingresso’ of Villa Bellini (Pl. E, 2) and Piazza Gioeni.—CAB 40 (at night 50) c. per drive; first hour 1½ fr. (two-horse 2 fr. 30 c.). _Catania_, a wealthy town of 162,000 inhab., the largest in Sicily after Palermo, the seat of a university, a bishop, and a natural science academy, has lately become the chief outlet for the products of the island, especially those of the extremely fertile environs. _Katana_, founded like Naxos by Eubœans, about 729 B. C., became famous as the home of _Charondas_, the framer of the earliest Greek code of law (about 640). In the Athenian and Syracusan war (p. 163) it formed the Athenian base of attack. Katana was one of the first places in Sicily occupied by the Romans, and under their sway became one of the most populous towns in the island. In the middle ages it vied for a time with Palermo and Messina as a favourite residence of the Aragon sovereigns. It has repeatedly suffered severely from the eruptions of Mt. Ætna (especially in 122 B. C. and in 1669) and from earthquakes (1169 and 1693), and the present town has been built almost entirely since 1693. From the Porto Vecchio, into which falls the brook _Amenana_ after passing through the lava under the town, we walk through the _Peschería_ (fish and provision market) to the— [Illustration: CATANIA] [Illustration: CATANIA] _Cathedral_ (Pl. E, 5; visible from the sea), begun by the Norman Roger I. with materials from the ancient theatre (p. 161), but almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake of 1169. In the choir repose the Aragon sovereigns of the 14th cent.; in the right side-apse are treasured the remains of St. Agatha, who, like St. Rosalia (p. 152), was one of the most famous saints of Sicily, and whose veil is said to have diverted the lava-stream of 1669 (Pl. B, 1–3) from the city at a point near the Benedictine monastery (see below). Opposite, on the right, is the monument of the viceroy Acuña (d. 1494), quite Spanish in style. By the second pillar on the right is the tomb of Vinc. Bellini, the composer, a native of Catania (1802–35). In the PIAZZA DEL DUOMO rises a fountain with an antique elephant in lava, bearing an Egyptian obelisk of granite. Past its N. side runs the CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE, with the Piazza dei Martiri and the statue of St. Agatha at its E. end (Pl. G, 5). We follow the Corso to the W. to the Via Sant’Agostino, by the church of that name (Pl. D, 5), and here turn to the N. past the entirely altered Roman _Odeum_ (comp. p. 349) to the Via del Teatro Greco. Here, near the corner on the right, at No. 37, is the entrance to the— _Ancient Theatre_ (Pl. D, 4, 5; custodian at No. 33; fee 50 c.), once a fine structure, but now so buried in lava that some parts of it can be explored only by candle-light. The foundations alone date from the Greek period.—In the Piazza Dante, a little to the N.W., is the suppressed Benedictine monastery of— _San Nicolò_ (Pl. C, D, 4), or _San Benedetto_, dating in its present form from the early 18th cent., with an imposing baroque church. The extensive buildings now contain barracks, a school, the civic museum, the library, and the observatory. The church-tower (entr. through the portal to the S. of the façade; gratuity) commands a panoramic *View of the town, Mt. Ætna, and the Sicilian and Calabrian coasts, which is finest before 9 a.m. At the Piazza Dante begins the VIA LINCOLN (Pl. D-F, 4), the second great thoroughfare of the town running W. to E., partly hewn through the lava-stream of 1669. This street is crossed by the— VIA STESICORO ETNEA (Pl. E, 5–1), which intersects the whole town, from the Piazza del Duomo (see above) to the N. end. Here rise the chief public buildings of Catania, the _Municipio_ (Pl. E, 5), the _University_, and the _Prefettura_ (Pl. E, 4). Farther to the N. is the Piazza Stesicoro; on its left side is the church of _San Cárcere_ (Pl. E, 3), with an interesting Norman portal brought from the cathedral. Close by the N. part of a _Roman Amphitheatre_ has been laid bare (greater diameter 138, smaller 116 yds.); the unusually large arena (77 by 55 yds.) is second only to that of the Colosseum (94 by 59 yds.). Still farther to the N., on the left, is the entrance to the _Villa Bellini_ (Pl. E, 2), a public park with fine views. After returning to the Porto Vecchio we may follow the Via Scuto to the picturesque _Castello Ursino_ (Pl. D, 6), dating from the time of Emp. Frederick II. (after 1239). The quarter to the E. of the castle is almost the only relic of the old town. * * * * * On the VOYAGE TO SYRACUSE the steamer proceeds to the S.E. at some distance from the _Piana di Catania_ (p. 159), affording a splendid view astern of Mt. Ætna, and passes _Capo Campolato_, _Capo Santa Croce_ (p. 159), and the _Bay of Megara_. As we enter the _Bay of Syracuse_, bounded on the N. by the plateau of _Capo Santa Panagia_ (p. 159), and on the S.E. by the low _Penisola della Maddalena_ (177 ft.), the ancient _Plemmyrion_, we obtain an excellent idea of the site of the present island-city, and of the vast extent of the ancient city on the mainland to the N.W., stretching up the hill to the village of _Belvedere_ (p. 166). The entrance to the inner bay of the _Porto Grande_, now much choked with sand, between the lighthouse at the end of the island and that of the peninsula, behind the cliff of _La Galera_, is only 1312 yds. across. In the swampy and in summer malarious plain on the W. bank of the harbour are the mouths of the rivers _Anăpo_ and _Ciani_, the ancient _Anapos_ and _Kyane_. =Syracuse.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor near the landing-place at the Porta Marina (_Scalo_; comp. Map). Landing or embarkation 50 c., with baggage 1 fr. RAILWAY STATIONS. The Central Station (_Stazione_, see Map) is on the Floridia road (p. 165), 1 M. to the N.W. of the town. The expresses run down to the _Stazione Porto_. HOTELS (advisable to ask charges beforehand). *_Grand-Hôt. Villa Politi_ (_V. P._ on the Map), on the mainland, near and in the Latomia dei Cappuccini (p. 165), with beautiful garden and fine views, R. 4–8, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens. 10–16, omn. 1½ fr; *_Hôt. des Etrangers_ (formerly _Casa Politi_), near the Arethusa Fountain, similar charges; *_Grand-Hôtel_, Piazza Mazzini, close to the busy harbour, similar charges.—Second-class: _Alb. Roma_, Via Roma 64, R. 1¾–3 fr., well spoken of; _Alb. Firenze_, Via Roma 73, R. from 1½ fr; _Alb. Cavour_, Via Savoia, behind the Dogana, R. 1½–3 fr.; these three with restaurants (Ital. cuisine). CAFÉ. _Croce di Savoia_, Piazza del Duomo. CABS. (Night fares from ½ hr. after sunset till sunrise. Fares should be ascertained before starting.) Per drive in the town (incl. harbour-station) 40 c., with pair 1 fr., at night 70 c. or 1½ fr.; to or from chief station 65 c. or 1½ fr., at night 90 c. or 1 fr. 90 c. (luggage over 25 kilos or 55 lbs. 25, over 50 kilos or 1 cwt. 50 c.); first hour 1½ or 2½ fr., each addit. ½ hr. 60 c. or 1½ fr.—For a long drive it is best to choose one’s own vehicle in the Piazza del Duomo. For an afternoon (noon till ½ hr. after sundown) 5 or 10 fr., whole day 10 or 20 fr. Cheaper fares may generally be agreed upon out of the season. STEAMBOAT AGENTS.—_Società Nazionale_, Via Ruggiero Settimo 38, close to the Dogana; _Hungarian Adria Co._, also _Lloyd’s Agents_, Gaet. Bozzanca & Figlio. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Joseph Lobb_.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Via Roma. ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE in winter. [Illustration: SIRACUSA E CONTORNI.] [Illustration: PORTO GRANDE] ONE DAY. The chief sights in the modern town are the Cathedral, the Museum, and the Arethusa Fountain (p. 164). The greater part of the day should be devoted to the ancient town. The most interesting places there (the Euryelus excepted) may be visited by carriage in 3–4 hrs.: Latomia dei Cappuccini (p. 165), Catacombs of San Giovanni (p. 165), Amphitheatre (p. 166), Hiero’s Altar (p. 166), Greek Theatre (p. 166; best towards sunset for the sake of the view). Walkers should ferry direct from the Prigioni in the town to the N. bank of the Porto Piccolo (10 c.). _Syracuse_, Ital. _Siracusa_, the most populous town in Sicily in ancient times, and indeed the most important of all the Hellenic cities, now a mere shadow of its glorious past, with 27,000 inhab. only, lies on an island separated from the mainland by a narrow strait. It was founded under the name of _Syracusae_ by Corinthians, in 734 B. C., on the island then called _Ortygia_, where a Phœnician settlement had perhaps already existed. Endless party conflicts between the nobles and the townspeople led in 485 to the intervention of the tyrant _Gelon_ of Gela, who made Syracuse his residence. In alliance with _Theron_ of Acragas (Girgenti) he defeated the Carthaginians at the battle of Himera in 480, the same year in which the victory of Salamis (p. 506) saved the mother-country from destruction. The Syracusans thereafter gradually extended their sway over the greater part of Sicily till the year 415 when to their dismay the Athenians, instigated by Alcibiades, intervened in Sicilian politics, and with the aid of the neighbouring towns of Catana and Leontinoi (p. 159) proceeded to besiege the city. In 413 the might of Athens was for ever shattered before the walls of Syracuse, but the dread of being attacked anew by the Carthaginians induced the Syracusans to entrust their government to the tyrant _Dionysius I._ (406–367), next to the Persian monarchs the most powerful prince of his age, who refortified and embellished the city. The tyrant _Agathocles_ (317–289) conducted a brilliant expedition against Carthage, but without permanent success. The last phase of the glory of Syracuse was witnessed in the long reign of _Hiero II._ (275–216). As the Syracusans, after his death, allied themselves with Hannibal, their city was besieged by _Marcellus_ in 214–212, and after its capture was sacked and destroyed. Since then it has never again taken any part in political life, but in spite of its downfall it is still one of the most interesting places in the whole of Sicily, while the beauty of its environs is hardly less fascinating than the monuments of its glorious past. a. The Modern Town. From the harbour-station (p. 162) the broad Corso Umberto Primo (p. 165) crosses the strait to the island on which lies the MODERN TOWN, whose narrow winding streets are still of mediæval type. A pleasant walk, with a view of Mt. Ætna, is by the _Foro Vittorio Emanuele Secondo_ and _Passeggio Aretusa_, leading from the Piazza Mazzini and the landing-place (p. 162) along the harbour. In the grounds at the S. end of the promenade is a statue of the famous mathematician _Archimedes_, who defended his native city against Marcellus. Near it is the _Fontana Aretusa_, enclosed by papyrus-shrubs. From this point the Via Maniace leads to the S.E. to the _Castello Maniace_, a Hohenstaufen castle at the S. end of the island, completed under Emp. Frederick II. in 1239, but now modernized. To the N. of the Fontana lies the Piazza del Duomo. The =Cathedral= is built into a Doric temple, probably of _Minerva_, the beauty of which was extolled by Cicero in his oration against Verres (p. 157). It stood on a basement of three steps, about 61 yds. long and 24 yds. broad. The ancient columns with their entablature still project on the N. side, and in the interior nineteen columns also are visible. The =Archæological Museum=, opposite the cathedral, to the N.W., contains valuable antiquities, mostly Sicilian, from the earliest ages down to the Christian period. Adm. on week-days, Oct.–June 9–3, July-Sept. 8–2, 1 fr.; Sun. (not all rooms accessible) 10–2, free. GROUND FLOOR. In Room I, Early-Christian inscriptions and the sarcophagus of Adelfia (5th cent.) from the catacombs of San Giovanni (p. 165). In Rooms III-V, Greek inscriptions, sarcophagi, cinerary urns, and architectural fragments. Room VI. Earthenware sarcophagi from Gela (6–5th cent. B. C.), Hellenistic and Roman sculptures. Room VII. Chiefly Greek sculptures. In Room VIII, a fine Venus Anadyomene (Hellenistic). The STAIRCASE and FIRST FLOOR (Rooms XI and XVII-XIX) contain the ancient historical collection, showing the progress of Sicilian culture from the pre-Greek period (from the 15th cent.) down to the 5th cent. B. C.—Rooms XII, XIII. Greek vases from Sicily and Lower Italy, archaic bronzes and coins from ancient Sicily. Rooms XIV-XVI. Terracottas. The mediæval and modern collections of the Museum are to be transferred to the _Palazzo Bellomo_, a building of the 15th cent., in the Via Capodieci running to the E. from the Fontana Aretusa. The Via Cavour leads to the N. from the Piazza del Duomo to the Via Diana, where on the left are the ruins of the so-called _Temple of Diana_ (keys at the barber’s opposite; fee 30 c.), but now believed to have been dedicated to _Apollo_. This is one of the most curious of Greek temples. In front stood two rows of six columns each. The side-walls were of unusual length and were each probably flanked by nineteen columns. b. The Ancient City. Long before the Athenian campaign (p. 163) ANCIENT SYRACUSE had extended her boundaries far beyond her island of _Ortygia_ and across the high plateau to the N. to the bay of Trogilos and the present tonnara near Cape Santa Panagia (p. 159). The earliest extension consisted in the _Achradina_, the smaller half of which lay between the great harbour and the plateau, while the larger half occupied the E. margin of the latter, and was enclosed by a wall whose ruins still exist. Adjoining the Achradina on the W. were the _Neapolis_, or new city, on a terrace above the great harbour, and the quarter named _Tyche_ after a temple of the goddess of Fortune. The _Epipolae_, the fifth and highest quarter, on the W. side of the plateau, was the chief base of the Athenian besiegers; but it was only completed after Dionysius I. had (about 402–385) enclosed the entire half of the plateau stretching from the Achradina wall westwards, with a huge city-wall, and had built the fortress of _Euryelus_ at its W. end. The circumference of the city, which however embraced a good deal of unoccupied land, was thus no less than 17 M. Of the enclosing wall 10½ M. still exist. We begin with the ACHRADINA. The Corso Umberto Primo (p. 163), the main street of the new suburb on the mainland, leads in 10 min. to a round piazza whence radiate the Floridia road, passing the central station, and the Catania and Noto roads. The remains of columns on the drilling-ground between this piazza and the small harbour probably belonged to a superb _Agora_ or market-place. From this point we follow the Catania road to the N., whence an avenue soon diverges to the right to the Porto Piccolo (ferry, see p. 163), now choked with sand, and leads along the shore, below the suburb of _Santa Lucia_, and across a railway cutting, to (25 min.) the _Capuchin Monastery_ (now a poor-house). Close by, on the right, is the entrance to the— *=Latomía dei Cappuccino= (adm. 30 c.), one of the wildest and grandest of the old quarries of Syracuse, now clothed with rich vegetation. It was here probably that the 7000 Athenian prisoners of war languished in 413 B. C. Following the road to the W. we skirt the plateau and pass the _Cimitero_ to (10 min.) the road coming from the upper Achradina, and go on by a cart-road, whence, by the _Latomia del Casale_, we see the Catania road before us and the church of San Giovanni below, on the left. _San Giovanni_ occupies the W. part of an old Norman basilica; steps in the N.E. corner lead to the crypt of St. Marcian (4th cent.). A monk, who shows the church also if desired (fee ½–l fr.; ring, on the S. side, door to the E. of the vestibule), conducts us to the— *=Catacombs of San Giovanni=, which like most of the catacombs of Syracuse and its environs, far surpass those of Rome in extent. The main passage of this great burial-place (4–7th cent. A. D.), 10 ft. high and 6 ft. wide, runs through the rock from W. to E. for 116 yds., and from it diverge short lateral passages ending in circular chambers. Of the mural decoration little is now left. A little farther to the W. we cross the Catania road to the region of NEAPOLIS, and follow the road leading to the Greek theatre. To the left, in 5 min., we reach the house of the custodian (½ fr.) of the Roman— =Amphitheatre=, constructed in the time of Augustus, 153 by 130 yds. in area. In the arena lie many blocks of the marble parapet belonging to a restoration of the 3rd century. About 120 yds. farther to the W. is the entrance, also on the left, to the great _Altar of Hiero II._ (30–50 c.). On this vast altar, 219 yds. long and 25 yds. broad and originally rising in two huge steps to a height of 34½ ft., were probably sacrificed the annual hecatombs of 450 bulls in memory of the expulsion of the tyrant Thrasybulus (466). Opposite we see the =Latomia del Paradiso=, an ancient quarry 95–130 ft. deep, so-named from the most luxuriant vegetation which now clothes it (entrance through the gateway on the left). In its W. slope is the so-called _Ear of Dionysius_ (entrance below, on the left), an S-shaped cavern, 71 yds. deep, 6–12 yds. wide, and 76 ft. high, tapering at the top, with remarkable acoustic properties. As the tyrant is said to have had prisons where from a certain spot he could hear every whisper, the tradition has been arbitrarily associated with this cavern. The road next passes under the modern arches of the aqueduct and reaches, on the right, the *=Greek Theatre= (5th cent. B. C.), one of the largest in the Hellenic world. It is hewn in the rock, forming more than a semicircle. Its diameter is 147 yds.; 46 tiers of seats are still preserved; the eleven lower rows were covered with marble. Towards sunset we have a delightful *VIEW of the town, the Porto Grande, the headland of Plemmyrion, and the sea. Above the theatre is the so-called _Nymphaeum_, a grotto into which the aqueduct (see below) was led. On its left side the _Via delle Tombe_, hewn in the rock, ascends in a curve for 165 yds., with many lateral cuttings and tomb-chambers of the late-Roman age. From the Catania road, ¼ M. to the N. of the branch-road to the Greek theatre, diverges to the left the NEW EURYELUS ROAD, 3 M. long. It leads to the W., soon passing the _Casa dei Gesuiti_, to which walkers may ascend direct from the Nymphæum. It runs parallel with an _Ancient Aqueduct_ (‘Acquedotto Galermi’), crosses the desolate plateau, very hot in summer, once the site of the Greek Neapolis and of _Epipolae_ (p. 165), and joins the old Euryelus road beyond the S. wall of Dionysius I. A little farther, where the road diverges to the left to the village of _Belvedere_ and the _Posto Semafórico_ or _Telégrafo_ (617 ft.; fine view), is the _Casa dei Viaggiatori_ (rfmts.; open from 15th Jan. to 15th May). Our road ends on the W. side of Euryelus, 130 yds. from the custodian’s house. The *=Euryelus= (adm. 50 c.), the ‘outer fort’ of the Epipolæ, built about 400 B.C., at the junction of the N. and S. walls of Dionysius, is one of the best-preserved of ancient Greek fortifications. The five massive towers on the W. side, whence we survey the whole site of ancient Syracuse and enjoy a fine view ranging from Mt. Ætna to Calabria, are flanked with two deep moats hewn in the rock. In the first of these are subterranean apertures for sallying purposes. We may return to Syracuse by the OLD EURYELUS ROAD. On the S. side of the plateau it joins the Floridia road, 1¼ M. from the station. [Illustration: MOROCCO] VI. ALGERIA. Route Page Geographical and Historical Sketch. Preliminary Information 168 28. Oran 175 a. The Harbour and the Old Town, 178.—b. The New Town, 180.—c. Environs (Fort Santa Cruz, Belvédère, Mers el-Kébir, Promenade des Falaises), 182.—From Oran to Hammam Bou-Hadjar, 184. 29. From Oran to Tlemcen 185 From Oran to Aïn-Temouchent. From Aïn-Temouchent to Tlemcen viâ Pont-de-l’Isser or Beni-Saf, 185. 30. Tlemcen 187 Mansura, 193.—Sidi Bou-Médine, 194.—Agâdir, 196. 31. From Tlemcen to Nemours viâ Lalla-Marnia 197 Oudjda, 197. 32. From Oran to Beni-Ounif de Figuig (Colomb-Béchar) viâ Damesme and Perrégaux 199 From Damesme to Arzew, 199.—From Tizi to Mascara, 200.—From Aïn-Sefra to Tiout, 202. 33. From Oran to Algiers 206 Kalàa. From Relizane to Mostaganem; to Tiaret, 207.—Mazouna, 208.—From Orléansville to Ténès, 209.—From Affreville to the Cedar Forest of Teniet el-Haâd, 210.—From Miliana to Margueritte. From Bou-Medfa to Hammam Rhira, 212.—From Blida to Berrouaghia. From Boghari to Ghardaïa viâ Djelfa and Laghouat, 215. 34. Algiers 217 a. Lower Quarter of the Old Town (Harbour, Mosquée de la Pêcherie, Great Mosque, Jardin Marengo, Archevêché, Cathedral, National Library), 222.—b. The Kasba, 226.—c. Mustapha-Supérieur and Environs (Museum, Chemin du Télemly, Birmandreis), 228.—d. The S.E. Suburbs (Jardin d’Essai, Hussein-Dey, Kouba), 232.—e. El-Biar and Bouzaréah (Forêt de Baïnem), 233.—f. Notre-Dame d’Afrique and St. Eugène, 235. 35. From Algiers to Tipaza and Cherchell 236 a. Viâ Castiglione 236 Jebel Chenoua, 242. b. Viâ El-Affroun and Marengo 243 36. From Algiers to Cape Matifou and to Aïn-Taya viâ Maison-Carrée 247 L’Arba, 247.—Rovigo, 248. 37. From Algiers to Bougie viâ Beni-Mansour 249 Aumale, 250.—Thubusuctu, 252. 38. From Algiers to Tizi-Ouzou. From Camp-du-Maréchal to Tigzirt 252 Port-aux-Poules. From Mirabeau to Boghni, 253.—From Mirabeau to Dra el-Mizan, 254.—Taksept, 256. 39. From Tizi-Ouzou viâ Fort-National to Maillot or Tazmalt 256 From Fort-National through the Djemâa Valley to Michelet; to Boghni, 257.—The Jurjura Mts. Icherridène, 258.—The Lalla Khedidja, 259. 40. From Fort-National viâ Azazga to Bougie 260 Toudja, 262. 41. Bougie 262 Cape Carbon, 264.—Anse des Aiguades. Jebel Gouraya, 265. 42. From Bougie through the Chabet el-Akra to Sétif 265 From Souk et-Tenine to Djidjelli. Mila, 267.—From Kerrata viâ Aïn-Abessa to Sétif, 268.—Périgotville, 269. 43. From Algiers to Constantine viâ Beni-Mansour, Sétif, and El-Guerrah 269 From Bordj-Bou-Arréridj to Bou-Saâda, 270.—Djemila. From Ouled-Rahmoun to Aïn-Beïda and Khenchela, 272.—Aïn-el-Hammam, 273. 44. From Constantine to Biskra viâ El-Guerrah and Batna 274 The Medracen, 274.—Zana. Jebel Touggour, 275.—Jebel Metlili. Gorges de Tilatou, 277.—The Aurès Mts., 278.—Environs of Biskra, 281.—From Biskra to Sidi-Okba, 283.—From Biskra to M’chounech; to Touggourt, 284.—The Oued Rhir. From Touggourt to Nefta viâ El-Oued. The Souf, 285. 45. From Batna viâ Lambèse to Timgad 286 Ichoukkân, 296. 46. Constantine 297 47. From Constantine to Philippeville 303 From St. Charles to Bona, 303. 48. From Constantine to Bona viâ Duvivier 306 Announa (Thibilis), 307.—Bugeaud, 311. 49. From Constantine or Bona viâ Duvivier to Souk-Ahras (Tebessa, Tunis) 312 From Souk-Ahras to Khamissa, 313. 50. From Souk-Ahras to Tebessa 313 Madaura. Vasampus, 314. _Algeria_, the central part of Barbary (Arab. _Jezirat el-Maghreb_) and since 1830 a French colony, covers an area of about 77,500 sq. M., or, including the S. territories (p. 170), about 342,500 sq. M., and contains 5,232,000 inhab. (4½ million Mohammedans and 730,000 Europeans, mostly of French, Spanish, and Italian origin). It extends from _Oued Kiss_, which was substituted for the _Mulûya_ (p. 93) by the Morocco treaty of 1845, to _Cape Roux_ (p. 131), the boundary of Tunisia, and from the Mediterranean to the _Highlands of Ahaggar_ in the interior of the Sahara. The arbitrary division of N. Algeria into the three _départements_ of _Oran_, _Alger_, and _Constantine_ is a survival of the Turkish administration. The orographical regions, sharply defined except towards the E., are the _Tell Atlas_ (p. xxx), the E. prolongation of the Rîf Mts. (p. 93), the _Great Steppe_, and the _Sahara Atlas_. The TELL ATLAS (_Atlas Tellien_), the most important part of this vast territory, consists of two parallel ranges of folded hills of recent origin, which intersect a great basin stretching from the Atlantic to the bay of Tunis. The highest points of the range next the coast are the _Traras_ (3727 ft.), the _Dahra_ (5181 ft.), the _Atlas of Blida_ (5345 ft.), the _Jurjura Chain_ (7572 ft.) in Great Kabylia, and the _Babor Range_ (6575 ft.) in Little Kabylia. In the interior rise the _Tlemcen Group_ (6047 ft.), the _Ouarsenis_ (6512 ft.), the _Jebel Dira_ (5938 ft.), and the _Hodna Mts._ (6112 ft.), which last form the only considerable link between the Tell and the Sahara Atlas. The _Littoral_, 842 M. in length, with long, precipitous, and almost inaccessible stretches, has ever been dreaded on account of its storms; it is broken by the bays of _Oran_, _Arzew_, _Algiers_, _Bougie_, _Philippeville_, and _Bona_, but does not possess a single good natural harbour. Flanking the coast, in front of the Tell Atlas, are several ranges of lower hills (_Sahel_), as the _Sahel of Oran_, between Lourmel and the mouth of the Chélif, the _Sahel of Algiers_, and the _Sahel of Collo_, while the _Edough Group_ (3307 ft.), composed of crystalline rock, forms an independent mountain. The extensive plains behind the Sahels, which at Oran are marshy (_Marais de la Macta_) and have besides the remains of great salt lagoons (_Sebkha d’Oran_ and _Salines d’Arzew_), and especially the _Mitidja_ near Algiers, once a bay of the sea, and the _Plaine de Bône_, are the most fertile and richly cultivated parts of Algeria. The HAUTS-PLATEAUX or _Great Steppe_, an almost unwatered region, was originally a deep depression between the Tell and the Sahara Atlas, which in the course of thousands of years was gradually filled up with the alluvial deposits of mountain-torrents, and thus converted into a great and monotonous undulating plain, 2300–3300 ft. above the sea-level. The saline and gipseous soil is very sterile and is only at a few places adapted for the culture of grain, but has proved suitable for sheep-grazing. In the depressions of the steppe lie a number of extensive shotts or salt-lakes, which in summer are dry and recognizable only by their dazzling snow-white incrustation. Among these are the _Chott Gharbi_ (_Rharbi_) and the _Chott ech-Chergui_ in Oran, the _Zahrès Gharbi_ and _Zahrès Chergui_ in Algiers, and the _Chott el-Hodna_ at Constantine. The SAHARA ATLAS (_Atlas Saharien_) forms the great barrier between Algeria and the desert. It is ‘a region of grand and wildly fissured gorges, partly caused by erosion in the pluvial period, of valleys worn by torrents, of lofty plains converted into mountains, and of marine basins now filled up’ (Theob. Fischer). The chief heights are the _Montagnes des Ksour_ (7004 ft.), a prolongation of the much higher Morocco Atlas (p. 93), _Jebel Amour_ (6467 ft.), the _Monts des Ouled-Naïl_ (5295 ft.), and, beyond the depression of the _Monts du Zab_ (4304 ft.), the _Aurès Mts._ (7634 ft.), which are wooded in their N. half, and next to Great Kabylia have the finest hill-scenery in Algeria. The SAHARA, which belongs to the Territoires du Sud or de Commandement, governed by the military ‘Bureaux Arabes’, consists of the _Bassin du Gourara_ or _Bassin de l’Oued Saoura_ on the W., a plateau 330–2600 ft. above the sea, and of the _Bassin du Melrir_, named after the _Chott Melrir_, on the E., lying partly below the sea-level. Within this desert region, which is divided by the limestone plateau of the _Mzab_, are distinguished the _Hammadas_, or lofty plateaux, with rocky or hard clay-soil, entirely waterless and sterile, and the _Areg_ (sing. _Erg_), the extensive sand-hills rising a few hundred feet above the plains. From the Sahara Atlas and from the hills of the S. Sahara descend numerous water-courses, mostly subterranean, towards the plains, enabling the natives by means of irrigation to form a girdle of oases, which like the coast-plains are apt to be malarious in summer. Climatically also Algeria is a land of striking contrasts. The rainfall in the provinces of Algiers and Constantine, on the coast, and especially in the higher parts of the Tell Atlas, is abundant (thus at Algiers 25 inches, at Blida 37, Bougie 41½, Fort-National 45 inches). Being partly sheltered from the rainy N.W. winds by the Tell Atlas, the _Hauts-Plateaux_ have a lower rainfall (16–20 inches), which as in the Tell often takes the form of snowstorms. In the Sahara Atlas and the Sahara itself, where the dry trade-winds prevail during the greater part of the year, the rainfall diminishes considerably as we go southwards (thus at Biskra 7, at Goléa 2¾ inches). Even in the coast-lands, however, the prolonged drought of summer necessitates the use of artificial irrigation by means of _barrages_ across the valleys. The temperature on the coast varies comparatively little (thus at Algiers 54½° Fahr. in winter, 74° in summer), but the moisture of the air renders it almost unbearably hot in summer. On the Hauts-Plateaux, on the other hand, in the Sahara Atlas, and notably in the Sahara, there are great extremes of heat and cold, the variations not only between summer and winter, but also between day and night (in consequence of the great evaporation after hot, cloudless days) being very marked (thus, minimum at Constantine 16° Fahr., at Aïn-Sefra 17½° at Géryville 8½° Touggourt 19½°; maximum at Géryville 109°, at Biskra 118°, at Touggourt 122°). The fauna of Algeria is comparatively poor. The Barbary lion and the ostrich have been exterminated, and the panther is now rare; but we occasionally see camels, hyænas, jackals, maned sheep (p. 277), one species of ape (Magot, Macacus ecaudatus), a few poisonous snakes, and the unduly dreaded scorpion. The flora on the other hand is strikingly rich and varied. In the coast-zone occur all the usual Mediterranean plants. In the Tell Atlas there still exist, in spite of the wanton destruction of trees by the natives, remains of ancient forests of cork-trees (Quercus suber), evergreen oaks (Quercus Ilex and Quercus cenis), Aleppo pines, and occasionally of cedars (p. 210). In marked contrast to this vegetation is that of the great steppes, where the saline plants, the meagre dwarf-palms (Chamærops humilis), and particularly the alfa (halfa) or esparto grass (Macrochloa tenacissima), of which immense quantities are exported chiefly from the province of Oran, proclaim the proximity of the sterile and dreary desert. At Bou-Saâda (p. 270), in the hottest S. valleys of the Sahara Atlas, and in the oases of the Sahara we find the home of the date-palm (Phœnix dactylifera, Arabic _nakhl_), whose fruit is the chief food of the poorer classes and also an important article of commerce, whose sap yields palmwine, whose trunks afford building material, and with whose leaves are made the mats and bedding of the natives. The majority of the native inhabitants, who in the S. regions, away from the oases, are chiefly nomadic, are _Berbers_ (p. 94). These, however, since the immigration of the Beni Hilal and Beni Soleïm (p. 323), have mingled with Arabs much more than in Morocco, and outside of their mountain fastnesses have completely exchanged their own individuality for that of the Arab. The town populations, especially in the province of Algiers, are composed of a motley assemblage of _Moors_, descended from Spanish Moriscoes or from pirates (largely Christian apostates), of _Kabyles_ (p. 252), _Mozabites_ (p. 216), _Biskris_ (p. 280), and lastly of _Kuluglis_, descended from Turks and Moorish women. The _Jews_, partly settled in Barbary since ancient times, partly immigrants from Spain, have enjoyed, unlike the Mohammedans, the full rights of citizenship since 1870, but, though thriving materially, they are hardly superior in culture to the less favoured inhabitants. Down to the end of the middle ages Algeria was historically inseparable from Tunisia and Morocco (see pp. 95, 187, 188, 322). After the whole coast as far as the Atlantic had been colonized by the Carthaginians, and the whole of S. Algeria by the Romans, but with diminishing energy as they proceeded from E. to W., a period of decadence set in. Troubles began with the revolt of the Circumcelliones, and were succeeded by the party strife between Catholics and Donatists, by the religious persecutions under the Arian Vandal kings (p. 322), by the misgovernment of the Byzantines (534–698), and by the irruption of the Arabs (p. 322). During the Moorish period, as Algeria only formed an independent state for a time under the Ibadites (p. 323) and the Hammadites (p. 263), while in the W. regions the kingdom of Tlemcen (p. 188) was afterwards founded, it proved a constant apple of discord between the powerful dynasties of Morocco and Tunisia. The intrusion of the Spaniards (p. 178) next led to the intervention of the Turks and to the establishment of a piratical state by Horuk Barbarossa (comp. p. 221). Under the sway of France great improvements have been introduced; many of the most fertile regions on the coast and in the Tell Atlas have become state property and that of French companies or of industrious colonists (mostly Spaniards, S. French, Alsatians, and Lorrainers), and the long neglected seaports have awoke to new life. The whole country has been opened up by a network of excellent roads, and railways have been carried to the confines of the Sahara. In the towns, with the exception of Tlemcen and Constantine, most of the old Moorish and Turkish buildings have been superseded by French. While but few specimens of Moorish architecture have been spared by enthusiasts for improvement, there still survive in the Hauts-Plateaux some interesting relics of Roman buildings, recently unearthed from the oblivion of centuries, and now carefully preserved from further destruction. For much fatigue and privation the traveller in Algeria will be compensated by many a glimpse of picturesque Oriental manners and costumes and by the varied scenery of the peaceful and luxuriantly fertile plains, the wild mountains, and the stony and sandy wastes of steppe and desert. Most striking of all are the wonderful effects of light and shade on land, sea, and sky, under the glorious African sunshine. Amid the manifold green hues of the rich subtropical vegetation, enlivened by a wealth of flowers and blossom, gleam the dazzling white Moorish country-houses and Mohammedan shrines (kubbas or marabouts) and the red-tiled roofs of the mountain villages and the European settlements. Travellers penetrating from the coast to the Sahara will marvel, especially in winter, at the extraordinary clearness of the atmosphere and the gorgeous sunsets, such as neither Italy nor Greece can boast of, awakening in every beholder an enthusiastic admiration for the desert. Notwithstanding the considerable rainfall (p. 170) and the occasional gales to which it is exposed, the town of Algiers is a favourite winter resort. The best months for travelling on the seaboard and the Hauts-Plateaux are April, May, and November, and for the Sahara February and March. The favourite goals are, in the province of Oran: Oran, Tlemcen, and Figuig; in the province of Algiers: Teniet el-Haâd, Miliana, Hammam Rhira, Blida, Fort-National, and Michelet; and in the province of Constantine: Bougie, the Chabet el-Akra, Constantine, Timgad, El-Kantara, Biskra, and Tebessa. The RAILWAYS, with the exception of the Chemins de Fer Algériens de l’Etat, belong to three private companies, the Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée Algérien, the Ouest Algérien, and the Bône-Guelma (et prolongements). They are all single lines. The express on the chief line, that from Algiers to Oran, travels 26¾ M. an hour only; the speed of the ordinary trains is 12–19 M. per hour. On all the main lines dining and sleeping cars are provided. On the branch-lines the trains often have one first-class carriage only. For night journeys in the Hauts-Plateaux the heating by means of foot-warmers is inadequate. In E. Algeria the traffic is sometimes stopped for several days in winter by snow-drifts and cloud-bursts. The time-tables are to be found in the Livret A. Jourdan (Indicateur des Chemins de Fer, de la Navigation, etc.; 50 c.), in the Livret-Chaix (Guide pour les Chemins de Fer de l’Algérie, de la Tunisie et de la Corse; 50 c.), or in the Indicateur Officiel (Guide-poche Algérien par L. Chappuis; 60 c.). Greenwich time (ca. 59 min. behind mid-European time), which has been recently introduced in France, is observed everywhere. Travellers should go to the ticket-office early, as the officials have much writing to do and their proceedings are slow. In the larger towns tickets may usually be taken and luggage booked beforehand at the town-office of the railway company. As in France each passenger is allowed 30 kilos (about 66 lbs.) of luggage. Return-tickets (billets d’aller et retour) for a distance of 50 kilomètres (31 M.) are valid for two days, for distances over 400 kilom. (248 M.) for at least seven days. The Indicateurs above named contain further information as to return-tickets ‘collectifs pour families’, ‘collectifs d’excursion’, and ‘demi-places’, which last only benefit those who make a stay of several months in the colony. As the roads are good and the trains slow, those who can bear the expense will often find a MOTOR CAR the swiftest and pleasantest kind of conveyance. Among fine motoring trips may specially be noted those from Oran to Tlemcen (comp. p. 184); from Algiers to Castiglione, Tipaza, Hammam Rhira, Affreville, and Teniet el-Haâd, returning viâ Blida and Boufarik; from Algiers to Cape Matifou, Ménerville, Tizi-Ouzou, Fort-National, and Michelet (Tazmalt); from Bougie through the Chabet el-Akra to Kerrata, or viâ Djidjelli and Mila to Constantine; also from Algiers or Constantine to Biskra. The maximum speed allowed in towns and villages is 15 kilomètres (9½ M.) an hour, on highroads 30 kilom. (19 M.) per hour. The cars offered for hire in the larger towns are generally good machines of 15–60 horse-power. Where neither railways nor motor-omnibuses are available persons of limited means travel by DILIGENCE (see time-tables in Jourdan’s Indicateur, mentioned above). Besides the ‘Courrier’, or postal diligence, there is sometimes a ‘Concurrence’, an inferior and cheaper vehicle. Careful inquiry as to time-table and fares should be made, and front seats secured beforehand. The officials sometimes charge strangers more than the legitimate fare. If the passenger prefers to walk or ride part of the way, he may arrange with the driver as to the carriage of his luggage. Off the highroads and for mountain excursions RIDING is often preferable to walking. A mule (_mulet_) or a donkey (_bourricot_) is more commonly used than a horse. The Arabian saddle with its high cantle and pommel gives a certain sense of security to the novice, but the experienced rider will prefer an English saddle, which may be obtained in the larger towns. The animals are badly kept by the natives, but are quiet and sure-footed. Instead of a saddle, mules and donkeys often have a kind of sack thrown over their backs, into which the rider thrusts his feet. The attendant has to provide food for himself and his beast, and he is always expected to walk except on very long excursions. For excursions of any length in the Sahara the traveller must have recourse to the camel, the ‘ship of the desert’. The superior trotting camel (_mehara_) must be distinguished from the ordinary beast of burden, which only walks about 2½ M. per hour, but has wonderful powers of endurance, even in the most trying weather. In the case of the trotting camel the rider sits on a narrow saddle and crosses his feet (with shoes removed) on the animal’s neck. On the broad pack-saddle of the camel of burden is a seat for men, and right and left are others for ladies, for whom a kind of litter (_attatouch_) also is provided. While the rider mounts the kneeling animal the attendant usually puts his foot on one of its fore-legs to prevent it from rising too suddenly, as it is very apt to do. As the camel rises on its hind-legs first, tilting the rider forwards, it is advisable to lean well back at first, and then forwards, and to keep firm hold of the saddle. Practice alone will enable the rider to get used to the peculiar gait of the animal. The rider’s head should be well protected by a pith-helmet or other efficient covering. Luggage is best carried in two saddle-bags (gibera) of leather or carpet, for which the natives ask 20 fr., or even in ordinary sacks. As to provisions, see p. 97. Intending travellers are expected to present themselves at the Bureau Arabe before starting, where they may apply for a Saharien or Cavalier du Maghzen (p. 390) to accompany them. In some cases an escort is considered indispensable. The MONEY for a tour in Algeria had better be taken in the form of notes of the Banque de France or the Banque de l’Algérie (for Algeria and Tunisia only) or in gold of the Latin monetary union. Bank of England notes and sovereigns are always readily exchanged in the larger towns and tourist-resorts. Circular notes are less convenient, but have the merit of being safer. Letters of credit addressed to the Compagnie Algérienne or the Crédit Lyonnais also form a safe vehicle for large sums, but the branch-offices sometimes require a week’s notice before paying. The banks and public offices are mostly open at 9–11 and 2–5 only, but the cashier’s office usually closes at 3. Comfortable first-class HOTELS, owned chiefly by French, Swiss, or German proprietors, are to be found at Algiers, Oran, Hammam Rhira, and Biskra. Those of the second class usually make a fixed charge (5 to 12 fr. per day) for room, déjeuner, and dinner. Charges vary greatly, however, according to the season and to the traveller’s nationality. The beds are very good as a rule, and the rooms fairly clean, but the sanitation is often defective and the servants inefficient. Under these circumstances the scale of gratuities is lower than in Europe. As for food, the staple of almost every repast in Algeria is mutton. The wheaten bread is generally excellent. Among the best wines are the white of Médéa and Mascara, the red and the white of Tlemcen and Staouéli, and the red of Miliana, Margueritte, and Hammam Rhira. At the CAFÉS, which are often beset by shoe-blacks (_cireurs_; 10 c.), we may try a cup of ‘Nossi-Bey’ (50 c.), considered a specially good coffee. A cup of coffee or tea at the Moorish cafés costs one sou, but strangers are often charged two (no gratuities). A few good RESTAURANTS are to be found in the larger towns, and food also is provided by the better _brasseries_. Tobacco and cigars are much cheaper than in France, there being no government monopoly here, but there is a duty of 36 fr. per kilogramme (2⅕ lbs.) on imported cigars. The POST OFFICE arrangements are the same as in France. A favourite way of sending small parcels is by sample-post (‘échantillons sans valeur’; 12–15 days from Algiers to England), up to 350 grammes (about 12¼ oz.). Inland postage for letters of 20 grammes (not quite ¾ oz.) or post-cards 10 c., foreign 25 c. (for 20 gr.) or 10 c.—Senders of registered letters and telegrams must fill up a form giving their name and address. Postal orders and parcel-post are not recommended. DRAWING or PHOTOGRAPHING in fortified places, if not expressly forbidden, is at least inadvisable, nor should maps or plans be too closely studied in public places. With regard to intercourse with the natives, see p. xxv. The police arrangements are generally as good as in Europe. [Illustration: ORAN] The MOSQUES (p. xxv) in Algeria are all state property and may therefore be visited at any time except during prayer. A fee (20–50 c.) need only be given to the custodian for providing slippers or rendering special services. Smoking is forbidden in the forecourts, and of course in the buildings themselves. The MOORISH BATHS (ladies’ hours 12–6) may be glanced at in passing. BOOKS (comp. also pp. vi, 325). _Sir R. L. Playfair’s_ Bibliography of Algeria (London, 2 vols.) goes no further than 1895. Among works on the history of Algeria and its development may be mentioned: _M. Wahl_, L’Algérie (5th ed., Paris, 1908; 5 fr.); _Hanoteau et Letourneux_, La Kabylie (2nd ed., 3 vols., Paris, 1893; 25 fr.); _R. L. Playfair_, The Scourge of Christendom (London, 1884); _Graham_, Roman Africa, History of the Roman Occupation (London, 1902); _Randall Maciver_ and _Wilkin_, Libyan Notes (London, 1901). For the history of art: _Stéphane Gsell_, Les Monuments antiques de l’Algérie (2 vols., Paris, 1901; 20 fr.); _W. et G. Marçais_, Les Monuments Arabes de Tlemcen (Paris, 1903; out of print). Delightful descriptions of the country and its inhabitants are contained in _R. S. Hichens’s_ The Garden of Allah (London, 1904); _Frances E. Nesbitt’s_ Algeria and Tunis (London, 1906; 20s.); _Irene Osgood’s_ novel ‘Servitude’; _Guy de Maupassant’s_ novel Au Soleil (nouv. éd., Paris, 1894; 3½ fr.); _E. Fromentin’s_ Un été dans le Sahara (Paris, 1857) and Une Année dans le Sahel (Paris, 1859); _Col. Pein’s_ Lettres familières sur l’Algérie (Châlons-sur-Marne, 1871; 3 fr.). The French _Carte de l’Algérie_ (of the ‘Service Géographique de l’Armée’) is completed for the N. districts only. Each sheet on the scale of 1:50,000 costs 1½ fr.; sheets on the scale of 1:200,000 cost 90 c. each. Since 1908 M. Jourdan, of Algiers, has been bringing out a new official map for the north (1:200,000) and the south (1:400,000) at 1 fr. per sheet. 28. Oran. ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers of the _Compagnie Générale Transatlantique_ (RR. 19, 18) are berthed at the Quai Bougainville (Pl. C, 1), those of the _Transport Maritimes_ (R. 19) at the Quai de la Gare (Pl. C, D, 2), those of the _Navigation Mixte_ (RR. 19, 18) at the Quai Lamoune (Pl. B, 1). Baggage is conveyed to the custom-house (Douane; Pl. B, 2), and thence to the cabs or hotel-omnibuses. The porters (portefaix), mostly natives, are notorious for their extortionate demands. Charges should be agreed upon beforehand. =Railway Stations.= =1.= _Gare Centrale_ or _du P. L. M. et de l’Ouest Algérien_ (Pl. E, 4; p. 173), Boul. Marceau (p. 181), for Perrégaux and Algiers (R. 33), Tlemcen (R. 29), and Aïn-Témouchent (p. 185).—=2.= _Gare d’Arzew_ (Pl. F, 5), 1 M. from the hotels, for the line viâ Damesme (Arzew) and Perrégaux to Beni-Ounif de Figuig (R. 32).—The _Gare de la Marine_ (Pl. C, 2) is the terminus of the harbour goods-line.—TOWN OFFICE of the P. L. M. and Ouest Algérien railways, Boul. du Lycée 5. =Hotels.= *HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. a; D, 3), Boul. Séguin 1, corner of Place des Armes, fine open site, with restaurant, R. 4–6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 11–15, omn. 1 fr.—HÔT. VICTOR (Pl. b; D, 3), Rue d’Arzew 5 and Rue de la Bastille 8, R. 2½–5, B. ½¾, D. 3, pens. 7½–8½, omn. ½–1 fr., plain but good; HÔT. DU THÉÂTRE, Rue Bosquet, next the theatre (Pl. C, 3), new; HÔT. D’EUROPE (Pl. d; D, 3), Boul. Charlemagne 16, HÔT. DU PROGRÈS (Pl. f; D, 3), Rue de Belleville 14, both with restaurants, very unpretending.—=Hôtels Garnis.= *ROYAL (Pl. g; D, 3), Boul. du Lycée 3, with restaurant, R. 3–8, omn. 1 fr.; CENTRAL (Pl. h; D, 3), Rue de Belleville 13, R. 2½–4 fr. =Cafés.= _Continental_ (at the hotel), _Riche_, and _de la Mosquée_, all in Boul. Séguin (Nos. 1, 22, 19); _du Théâtre_, Place d’Armes 11; _Nouvel Aquarium_ (p. 182), Promenade de Létang; _Glacier_, Place Kléber 3. =Restaurants= at the hotels; also _Nouvel Aquarium_ (p. 182); _Brasserie Guill. Tell_, in the Hôt. Royal, Boul. du Lycée 3, good; _Brasserie de l’Etoile_, Rue de Belleville 11; _Brasserie Alsacienne_, Boul. Séguin 18. =Cabs= (_voitures de place_): │ By day│At night │ │ Drive within the town-walls │ 1.—│ 1.50 „ to the suburbs (banlieue) │ 1.50│ 2.— _Course double_ (there and back, with stay of ¼ hr.)│ 1.50│ 2.— Same to the suburbs │ 2.—│ 2.50 Per hour, in the town │ 2.—│ 3.— „ „ within 8 kilomètres (5 M.) around │ 2.50│ 3.50 Excursion of a whole day (50 kilom. or 31 M.) │ 16.—│ — To Mers el-Kébir and back │ 4.—│ — Same drive, with stay of ½ hr. │ 5.—│ — Night is reckoned from 11 to 6 (in summer to 5). Fares raised on Easter Monday and on race-days (see tariff). Luggage under 15 kilos (ca. 33 lbs.) free; trunk 25 c., over 40 kilos (ca. 88 lbs.) 50 c. =Motor Cars= and =Bicycles=. _Serviès_, Boul. Magenta 28; _L’Universelle_ (Schmitt & Co.), Rue d’Arzew 60; _Palace Auto_, Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine. =Tramways= (from 6, in winter 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; 1st cl. 15, 2nd cl. 10 c.; transfer 20 or 15 c.). =1.= From _Quai de la Douane_ (Pl. B, 1) to Rue d’Orléans, Place Kléber (Pl. C, 3), Boul. Malakoff, Rue des Jardins, and _Place d’Armes_ (Pl. C, D, 3).—=2.= From _Quai Ste. Thérèse_ (Pl. D, 1, 2) to Rue Charles-Quint, Place Kléber, Rue de Turin, Rue Philippe, and _Place d’Armes_.—From PLACE D’ARMES: =3.= to Boul. Séguin, Rue d’Arzew (Pl. D-F, 3), and _Gambetta_ (Pl. H, 2); =4.= to Boul. Séguin, Rue de Mostaganem (Pl. D-G, 4), and _St. Eugène_ (Pl. H, 4); =5.= to Boul. National, Boul. Magenta (Pl. D, 4), _Boul. Marceau_ (Pl. E, F, 4, 5); =6.= to Boul. National, Boul. Sébastopol (Pl. C, D, 4), Rue Dutertre (Pl. D, 5), and _Cimetière Tamazhouet_ (Pl. E, F, 5); =7.= to Boul. National, Porte de Tlemcen (Pl. C, 5), and _Eckmühl_ (Pl. B, 5). =Steam Tramway= to _Hammam Bou-Hadjar_, see p. 184. =Omnibuses.= Motor-omnibus from the Place Kléber (Pl. C, 3) every ½ hr. to _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183); ordinary omnibus twice daily to _Aïn-et-Turk_, _Bou-Sfer_ (p. 184), and _El-Ançor_ (p. 185); etc. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 9; D, 3), Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine 7; branches in the Dock No. 4, Quai du Sénégal, at No. 17 Boul. Malakoff, etc. =Steamboat Offices.= _Générale Transatlantique_, Boul. Malakoff 28; _Transports Maritimes_, Place de la République 9; _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), Rue Séguin 1. =Boats.= For a row in the harbour (as far as the lighthouse), 1 pers. 50, 2–3 pers. 25 c. each, 4 pers. 20 c. each (there and back with stay of ¼ hr., 70, 35, or 30 c.); one hour for 1 or more pers. 1½, each addit. hour 1 fr.—SAILING BOAT to Kristel (p. 184) about 6–8 fr. (according to bargain; should be ordered at the harbour in good time). =Baths.= _Beth_, Boul. Séguin 1 (seaside of Hôt. Continental) and Rue d’Arzew 48; _Dussap_, Boul. Oudinot 22.—MOORISH (p. 175): _Bains Maures_, Rue de la Mosquée 5, etc.—SEA BATHS. _Bains de la Plage Ste. Thérèse_; _Bains Flottants_, Grande Jetée (Pl. D, 1), opposite the Quai Ste. Thérèse (ferry); _Bains de la Reine_ (p. 183); also at _Roseville_ (p. 183), _St. André de Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183), and _Aïn-et-Turk_ (p. 184). =Banks= (comp. p. 174). _Banque de l’Algérie_ (Pl. 1; D, 3), Boul. Séguin; _Comp. Algérienne_, Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine; _Crédit Lyonnais_, Boul. Séguin 3; _Crédit Agricole et Commercial Algérien_ (J. Thibaud), same street, No. 7. =Booksellers.= _Heintz_, Boul. Séguin 4; _Perrier_, Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville 10; _Fouque_, Boul. Séguin 26.—=Newspapers= (5 c.). _L’Echo d’Oran_, _Le Libéral_, _El Correo Español_. =Shops.= _Maison Universelle_, Boul. Séguin 27; _Gradvohl_, same boulevard, No. 20bis (Oriental goods).—PHOTOGRAPHIC REQUISITES. _Luck_, Rue de Belleville 9; _Schnell_, Boul. Séguin 14.—PICTURE POST CARDS. _Caspari_, Rue d’Arzew 24; _Craveya_, same street, No. 20. =Tourist Offices.= _Lubin_, Galerie Perez, Boul. Séguin; _Syndicat d’Initiative_, Hôt. de Ville (p. 180); _R. Heckmann_, Place de la République 7. =Consuls.= British Vice-Consul, _Thos. A. Barber_, Quai Ste. Marie 4 (Pl. B, 2).—U. S. Consular Agent, _A. H. Elford_, Rue Charles Quint 14. =French Prot. Church= (_Temple_; Pl. 13, C, 3), Rue de la Révolution; service on Sun. at 9.30 a.m. =Theatres.= _Grand Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. C, 3), Place d’Armes; _Théâtre-Casino_ (Pl. 14; C, 2), Rue Philippe; _Cirque-Théâtre des Nouveautés_ (Pl. C, 4), Boul. National; _Alhambra_ (Pl. D, E, 3), Rue d’Arzew 38bis. =Music= (in winter, 4–5 p.m.). Sun., Promenade de Létang (p. 181), near the Restaur. Aquarium; Tues., at the Cercle Militaire (p. 180); Thurs. (fortnightly in both), Place de la République and Square du Palais de Justice; Sat., at the Hôpital Militaire (Pl. C, 2).—CONCERTS in the _Salle Musicale_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue de Paixhans. TWO DAYS. 1st. In the forenoon, _Place d’Armes_ (p. 180), _Grande Mosquée_ (p. 180), _Promenade de Létang_ (p. 181), _Old Town_ (p. 179); afternoon, _Belvédère_ (p. 182) or _Plateau du Marabout_ (p. 183).—2nd. Forenoon, _Mers el-Kébir_ (p. 183); afternoon, _Promenade des Falaises_ (p. 184).—As to visiting the mosques, see p. 174. _Oran_, Arabic _Warân_, the capital of the province of that name, with 110,000 inhab. (29,700 being foreigners, mostly Spaniards, 16,000 Mohammedans, and 13,200 Jews), is a strongly fortified place, the headquarters of an army corps and a torpedo-boat station, and has been an episcopal see since 1867. Next to Algiers it is now the greatest seaport and commercial place in Barbary. The town lies in 35° 44′ N. lat. and 0° 58′ W. long., on a bay of the spacious _Gulf of Oran_ (p. 126), between _Jebel Santon_ (1043 ft.; p. 183) on the W. and the _Pointe Canastel_ (784 ft.; p. 184) on the E. side. At the W. end the quiet streets of the old town, overlooked by the bare limestone rocks of the _Pic d’Aidour_ or _Montagne de Santa Cruz_ (1221 ft.), ascend the ravine of the small brook _Raz el-Aïn_ or _Oued Rehhi_ to the hill of the _Kasba_, the ancient Moorish castle. The modern industrial quarters lie to the E. of the hill of _Château-Neuf_ and beyond the ravine of the _Aïn Rouina_, extending far over the plateau of _Karguentah_ (about 250–390 ft.), a tableland which descends abruptly to the sea and slopes gradually to the S. E. down to the plain of the _Daya Morselli_ and the _Plaine du Figuier_ (p. 185). The town is defended by several old forts of the Spanish period and by a number of modern coast-batteries, and, like most of the Algerian towns, is enclosed by a wall for protection against the natives. The chief suburbs outside the gates are _Gambetta_, _St. Eugène_, _Lamur_, and _Eckmühl-Noiseux_. Oran is essentially a modern town, which is being extended and embellished with feverish zeal, but notwithstanding its French veneer it derives a certain individuality from the preponderating Spanish element in its population. The Mohammedan element is diminishing here even more rapidly than in Algiers. Owing to the scantiness of the rainfall the environs and their vegetation are quite African in character, and the neighbouring shotts, or salt-lakes, resemble those of the Hauts-Plateaux (p. 169). The Gulf of Oran, where the _Portus Divinus_ (Mers el-Kébir, p. 183) was the only Roman settlement, was unimportant in ancient times. Native tradition ascribes the foundation of the town of Oran to Moorish merchants of Andalusia in 902, but it was not till the late middle ages that the town began to thrive. After the rise of the kingdom of Tlemcen (p. 188) Oran superseded the neighbouring ports of Rachgoun (p. 185), Honeïn (p. 125), and Arzew (p. 199) as the chief staple of the W. Algerian coast, its trade being chiefly carried on by Italians. Jealous of the successes of Portugal in Morocco (p. 96), and eager, after the capture of Granada (p. 75), to carry their crusade against Islam into African territory, the Spaniards sent an expedition against Melilla (p. 124) in 1496, while the all-powerful _Card. Ximenez_, archbishop of Toledo, proceeded to attack the Ziyanides (p. 188). In 1505 Mers el-Kébir, which had been twice occupied by the Portuguese in the 15th cent., was attacked and after a brave defence captured, and in 1509, on a second expedition, Oran fell into the hands of the cardinal. Thenceforth Oran formed the base of the further campaigns of the Spaniards, who in their victorious career soon captured all the important towns on the seaboard as far as Tripoli, and penetrated inland to Tlemcen. The Spanish governors succeeded in defending Oran against all the attacks of the barbarescos down to 1708, when the Bey _Bu-Chlar’em_ bombarded the Spanish forts from Jebel Murjajo, captured them, and slew the entire garrison. A Spanish army under the _Count of Montemar_ gained a brilliant victory over the Moors at Aïn et-Turk (p. 184) and recaptured the town in 1732, but the Spaniards soon found themselves again overmatched by their enemies. In 1790 the town was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake, and in 1792 the Spaniards at length withdrew their garrison. Under the bey _Mohammed el-Kebîr_ the town was erected into the capital of the province of W. Algeria; but in consequence of the earthquake, the interminable wars, and its entire separation from the inland regions during the centuries of the Spanish occupation, Oran had declined so lamentably that when it was occupied by French troops in 1831 it scarcely numbered 4000 inhabitants. Its rapid recovery since that period has been due to its favourable situation, its proximity to the Spanish coast and to the rich inland district of Tlemcen, and particularly to the extension of the Algerian railway system as far as the Sahara and to the promotion of trade with Morocco by the opening of free marts at Lalla-Marnia (p. 197), Aïn-Sefra (p. 202), and Beni-Ounif de Figuig (p. 203). a. The Harbour and the Old Town. The =Harbour= (Pl. B-D, 1, 2), 72 acres in area, is bounded on the E. side by the _Quai Ste. Thérèse_, 330 yds. long, and is sheltered on the N. by the _Grande Jetée_ or _Jetée du Large_, a pier 1200 yds. in length, with a lighthouse at the end (Phare; Pl. D, 1). The shallow _Vieux Port_ (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), now the S.W. bay of the new harbour bounded on the N. by the Quai Bougainville, was the harbour of the Moorish and Spanish periods. The rapid increase of the shipping trade (now exceeding 4 million tons annually) is being met by the construction of an outer harbour (Pl. D-G, 1, 2). The chief imports are sugar, coffee, rice, English coal, timber, petroleum, candles, and paper; the chief exports wine, grain, flour, fruit, early vegetables, alfa, ‘crin végétal’ (dwarf-palm fibre), tobacco, cattle, hides, wool, marble, and onyx. From the _Douane_ (Pl. B, 2) the RUE D’ORLÉANS (Pl. B, C, 2; tramway No. 1, see p. 176) ascends in a curve, skirting the _Quartier de la Marine_ and the _Quartier de la Calère_, the Spanish quarters, to the upper part of the town. Halfway up, to the right, on the parapet of the small Place d’Orléans (Pl. B, 2) are seen the _Spanish Armorial Bearings_ (1789). Beyond the _Palais Consulaire_ (Pl. 8, C 2; Chamber of Commerce and Commercial Court) the street reaches the two chief squares of the old French part of the town, the PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE, with the _Fontaine Aucour_ (Pl. C, 2; concerts, see p. 177), and the PLACE KLÉBER (Pl. C, 3). Adjoining the latter is the BOULEVARD MALAKOFF (Pl. C, 3), constructed over the vaulted channel of the Raz el-Aïn (p. 177), with a fine avenue of planes. On the S.W. side of the Place Kléber, between Boul. Malakoff and Boul. Oudinot, rises the _Préfecture_ (Pl. C, 3), the seat of the provincial government. The Boul. Oudinot leads to the _Magasin du Campement_ (Pl. C, 3; military stores; adm. by leave of the military authorities), in the garden of which we perceive the minaret of a _Mosque_ (about 1800) dedicated to _Sidi el-Hawâri_, the chief saint of Oran. The Rue Larrey leads past the E. side of the military stores to a terrace above the harbour-quarter, on which rises the— _Church of St. Louis_ (Pl. 12; C, 2), an unimportant edifice of 1839, whose choir-niche is a relic of the Spanish church of the time of the Count of Montemar (p. 178). The _Wall_ of the Rue de Berlin (Pl. C, B, 2), which leads hence to the Porte du Santon (p. 182), is of Spanish origin. We return to the Boul. Oudinot and glance at the _Quartier de la Kasba_, the oldest quarter of Oran, lying on the hill-side below the =Kasba= (Pl. B, C, 3; adm. on application at the guard-house), the old citadel. The old Moorish castle on this site was succeeded in the 16th cent. by the Spanish _Castillo Viejo_, the nucleus of the Spanish fortifications, and now occupied by French barracks. Above the _Porte d’Espagne_, a side-entrance at the end of the narrow Rue du Vieux-Château (Pl. C, 3), are still seen the arms of Spain. The Rue de Madrid (Pl. C, 3, 2), a side-street of the Rue Larrey (see above), and the steps in the Rue d’Orléans near the S.W. angle of the Place de la République lead to the small public— =Musée Demaeght= (Pl. 7; C, 2), Rue Montebello 9, founded in 1886 and named after its founder. Admittance, except on great festivals, daily 1–5, free. Catalogues of the antiquities and the ancient coins, 1¾ fr. each. Curator, Prof. A. Mouliéras. In the vestibule are Roman mosaics from a dwelling-house at Portus Magnus (Saint-Leu, p. 199), freely restored in parts; Roman stelæ, milestones, inscriptions, etc. from the province of Oran. FIRST FLOOR. On the left, in Room C, natural history collections, including specimens of marble and onyx from the province of Oran.—On the right, in Room D, prehistoric relics from Barbary and ethnographical collections. SECOND FLOOR. On the left, in Room E, casts from the antique; Moorish ornaments from Toledo and Granada; and a graphic collection.—On the right, in Room F, modern paintings. THIRD FLOOR. On the left, in Room G, natural history collections.—On the right, in Room H, a fine collection of coins, Numidian, Mauretanian, Roman, Byzantine, Moorish, old Spanish, etc.; in the wall-cases small relics from Portus Magnus. b. The New Town. The loftily situated NEW TOWN is reached from the Place Kléber (Pl. C, 3; p. 179) by several steep lanes in steps (Rue de Gênes, etc.), but more easily by the Boulevard Malakoff (p. 179) and the Rue des Jardins (Pl. C, 3; tramway No. 1, see p. 176), or by the Rue de Turin (Pl. C, 3, 2) and Rue Philippe (tramway No. 2). The Rue de Turin leads in a bend past the _Marché Bastrana_ (Pl. 5; C, 3) and the _Promenade de Létang_ (p. 181). The Rue Philippe, which ascends direct, passes on the right the elegant =Demeure de Hassan= (Pl. 2; C, 3), which, apart from the fortifications, is the sole relic of old Oran. According to the inscription, it was built in 1700 and restored in 1900, and is named after one of its later owners, a tobacco-merchant who became Bey of Oran in 1812. The adjacent =Grande Mosquée=, or _Mosquée du Pacha_ (Pl. 4, C, 3; Arabic _Jâma el-Pasha_), erected by order of the Dey of Algiers after the withdrawal of the Spaniards in 1792, is now the only mosque in the town used for divine service. The front building, erected in the form of a kubba, or saint’s shrine, at the sharp bend of the Rue Philippe, dates only from the French period (1864). The pretty Sahn, or court of the mosque, enclosed by a pinnacled wall, is planted with palms and bananas. In the mosque itself, whose vaulting rests alternately on short pillars and clustered columns, is the Sedda or stage, under the great central dome, where at the Friday service the Mosammi, or leader of prayer, repeats the words of the priest (Imâm) for the benefit of worshippers at a distance. On the right, by the plain mihrâb or prayer-niche, is the mimbar, the pulpit for the Friday sermon. At the back of the mosque, in the Rue de la Mosquée, rises the octagonal _Minaret_ (Sauma), the tower from which the muezzin summons the faithful to prayer five times daily. The pretty =Place d’Armes= (Pl. C, D, 3; 233 ft.), where the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Philippe end, is the business centre of the town and the chief tramway station (p. 176). A _Monument_ here recalls the battle near the Kubba Sidi-Brahim (p. 198). On the S. side of the square rises the HÔTEL DE VILLE, or _Mairie_ (Pl. C, 3), a building in the French Renaissance style, approached by a high flight of steps. On the W. side is the _Grand Théâtre Municipal_ (p. 177), opened in 1908. The grounds of the _Cercle Militaire_ (Pl. C, D, 3; concerts, see p. 177), on the N. side of the square, extend to the S. bastions of the Château-Neuf (p. 182). On the margin of the plateau, to the S.W. of the Place d’Armes and W. of the Rue de la Révolution, lies the poor _Jewish Quarter_, with its dirty streets, of which the chief is the Rue d’Austerlitz (Pl. C, 3, 4). Here an interesting fruit and vegetable market takes place daily (Sat. excepted). The best time for a glance at the Jewish quarter is a Saturday morning, between 8.30 and 9, when the women in all their finery go to the synagogues (in the Rue de Ratisbonne, etc.). At the N.E. angle of the Place d’Armes begins the BOULEVARD SÉGUIN (Pl. D, 3, 4), now the main street, with the chief banks, shops, and cafés, a favourite evening resort.—In a side-street, the Boul. du Deuxième-Zouaves, rises the new _Cathedral_ (Pl. D, 3, 4), begun in 1905 and now nearly completed. To the S. of it is the _Palais de Justice_ (Pl. D, 4) in the pleasant square named after it (music, see p. 177).—From the S. end of the Boul. Séguin the Rue de Mostaganem and Boul. Marceau (Pl. D-F, 4, 5) lead to the new _Gare Centrale_ (Pl. E, 4; p. 175), in the modern Moorish style (1907–9). The S. quarter of the town, between the _Barracks_ (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), built in the charming neo-Moorish style, and the town-walls, is the so-called =Village-Nègre= (Pl. C, D, 5), a growth of the French period. It consists chiefly of small one-storied houses, occupied by the natives, the working classes, and the poorer Mohammedans, with the _Marché Arabe_ as its nucleus. A visit may be paid to it in the morning, or better on a Friday or Sunday afternoon. In an open site on the E. side of this quarter, near the Rue Dutertre (tramway No. 6, see p. 176), is the picturesque _Marabout Sidi el-Bachir_ (Pl. D, 5; p. 172). Near this is the Porte du Cimetière, leading to the _Jewish Burial Ground_ (Pl. D, 5), to the Christian _Cimetière Tamazhouet_ (Pl. E, F, 5), and to the suburb of _Lamur_ occupied by natives. The E. part of the new town is intersected by the Rue d’Arzew, passing the new _Gallerie Audéoud_ with its row of shops, a little beyond which the Boul. de Tivoli diverges to the N. (left). In an open site at the end of this street rises the _Vieille Mosquée_ (Pl. F, 3), built at the end of the 18th cent. (now being restored), with a minaret resembling that of the El-Hawâri mosque (p. 179). The chief boast of Oran is the *=Promenade de Létang= (Pl. C, D, 2), the delightful grounds, shaded with palms, which flank the N. and W. sides of the Château-Neuf. They are reached from the Place d’Armes, either to the N.W. by the Rue Philippe, or to the N.E. by a road beginning between the Cercle Militaire and the Hôtel Continental. (To the E. of this road lies the _Lycée_, Pl. D, 3, a road to which crosses the ravine of the _Aïn Rouina_.) The two N.E. platforms, above the Fort Ste. Thérèse (Pl. D, 2), command a glorious view, especially towards evening, of the bold coast as far as the Pointe Canastel (p. 184) and of the double-peaked Jebel Kahar (p. 184). The terrace on the N.W. side, near the _Nouvel Aquarium_ (music, see p. 177), affords a good view of the harbour, of Jebel Murjajo with the Plateau du Marabout and Fort Santa Cruz (see below), and of the bay of Mers el-Kébir (p. 183). The CHÂTEAU-NEUF (Pl. C, D, 2; now military headquarters and barracks) was the _Bordj el-Ahmar_ (red castle) of Moorish times, the chief fort of the town next to the Kasba, the Rosalcázar of the Spanish period, seat of the governor, and in 1792–1831 the residence of the Bey of the province of Oran. Admittance on application at the guard-house. The inconsiderable buildings date partly from the Spanish occupation; on the outer walls and the entrance gateway are an Arabic and several Spanish inscriptions. c. Environs. (1). The old =Fort Santa Cruz= (Pl. A, 2; 1221 ft.; now an observatory), on the _Pic d’Aidour_, the E. spur of the Jebel Murjajo, is reached by the Rue de Berlin (p. 179) and the _Porte de Santa Cruz_ or _du Santon_ (1¼ hr.). A very rough, shadeless path ascends to it, beginning on a stony slope to the right above the drilling-ground, crossing the road to Fort St. Grégoire, and passing the chapel of the _Vierge de Santa Cruz_ (Pl. A, 1; 1024 ft.; view). It may be reached also by a bridle-path through the _Ravin des Planteurs_ (Pl. A, B, 2, 3), the gorge at the beginning of the Bois des Planteurs. The fort was built in 1700, nearly destroyed by the barbarescos in 1708 and 1792, and restored in 1856. It has always been connected with the Château-Neuf (see above) by an underground passage, 3 M. long. The platform commands a fine view of Oran and the bay of Mers el-Kébir (custodian 30–50 c.). The BELVÉDÈRE is a more interesting point. We follow the road from the Porte du Santon (see above), passing the drilling-ground, and crossing the (8 min.) _Ravin des Planteurs_. Now called the Chemin des Planteurs (Pl. B, A, 3), the road ascends in windings through the _Bois des Planteurs_, a pleasant pine-grove on the S. slope of _Jebel Murjajo_, where jackals are sometimes seen. To the right, halfway up, a path (finger-post) diverges to the (10 min.) *=Belvédère= (Pl. A, 3; rfmts.), a kind of temple where we enjoy a superb view of Oran. We may now either go on to the Plateau du Marabout, or else return to the town by the very attractive S. branch of the Chemin des Planteurs (Pl. A, B, 4), which descends to the valley of _Raz el-Aïn_ (p. 177) and leads along its left bank to the Porte du Ravin (Pl. B, C, 3). The road to the =Plateau du Marabout= (about 1360 ft.; carr. in about 1¾ hr., 6–8 fr., according to bargain) ascends through the _Bois des Planteurs_ (p. 182). From the end of the road a walk of 10 min. to the N.E. along the crest of the hill, through meagre brushwood, and offering a glimpse of the bay of Mers el-Kébir to the left, brings us to the _Marabout Sidi Abd el-Kâder el-Djilâni_, the chapel of a Persian saint much revered throughout Barbary as the founder of the Kadria brotherhood (p. 361). From this point, especially towards evening, we obtain a splendid *View of Oran, of Jebel Kahar and Jebel Orouze (p. 184) to the N.E., of the salt-lake and the bay of Arzew (p. 199). To the S. we see part of the Sebkha d’Oran (p. 185), backed by Jebel Tessala (p. 186). From the plateau we may either descend, a few minutes’ walk beyond the Marabout, to the left to Ste. Clotilde (see below), or we may go straight on, across the saddle between the Jebel Murjajo and the Pic d’Aidour, to the (40 min.) _Chapelle de la Vierge_ and the _Fort Santa Cruz_ (p. 182). (2). The excursion to MERS EL-KÉBIR (motor-omnibus and carr., see p. 176; tramway to Aïn-et-Turk projected) is specially attractive in the morning. We leave Oran near the Douane (Pl. B, 2) and above _Fort Lamoune_ (Pl. B, 1) skirt the bold E. slope of the _Pic d’Aidour_ (p. 182). On the wooded N. slope of the hill we reach (2 M.) the _Bains de la Reine_, which have been in use since the time of the Ziyanides (p. 188), but owe their name to a visit paid them by Juana the Insane (p. 76). The plain bath-hotel lies on the road above; the saline spring (130° Fahr.) and the bath-house lie behind the rocks lower down. The baths are frequented, chiefly in spring, both by Europeans and natives. The road next passes below (2½ M. from Oran) the villa-suburb of _Ste. Clotilde_ (197 ft.; Hôt. Ste. Clotilde), with its charming gardens in the shade of the hill (path to the _Plateau du Marabout_, see above). Just beyond Ste. Clotilde, in the ravine of _Salto del Cavallo_, is the spot where Tâkhfîn ben-Ali (p. 188) is said to have been slain when attempting to escape. 3¾ M. _Roseville_ (99 ft.; not visible from the road) has a good bathing-beach. 4½ M. _St. André de Mers el-Kébir_ (55 ft.; Hôt. National, on the shore), a poor village, inhabited almost entirely by Spaniards and Italians, lies at the S. base of the fortified _Jebel Santon_ (1043 ft.), the N. spur of Jebel Murjajo. The open roads of =Mers el-Kébir= (Arabic _Mersa el-Kebîr_, the great harbour), famed in Spanish military annals as _Mazalquivir_, now the naval harbour of Oran, are admirably sheltered from the W. and N. winds by Jebel Santon and by a rocky headland (lighthouse). Beyond the (5 M.) little fishing-village (Hôt. de l’Escadre, humble) rises a huge _Fort_, the outer walls of which date partly from the Spanish period. TO AÏN-ET-TURK AND BOU-SFER (a day’s excursion from Oran; omn. and carr., see p. 176; provisions should be taken), an interesting drive, especially in spring, affording a good idea of the progress of agriculture in this coast-region. Beyond the headland of Mers el-Kébir the road is carried round the _Jebel Santon_, high above the sea, by means of cuttings, and then descends to the fertile _Plaine des Andalouses_, which is now inhabited chiefly by S. Spanish peasants. Its name recalls the landing here of the Moors expelled from Andalusia. 9½ M. (from Oran) _Aïn-et-Turk_ (65 ft.; ‘Turkish well’), a little village, to which sea-bathers resort in summer, with a church on the hill (177 ft.), 2½ M. to the S.E. of _Cape Falcon_ (p. 125), from which it is separated by a chain of sand-hills rising to a height of 397 ft. The road, now perfectly straight, ascends to the S.W., through vineyards and corn-fields, to (13 M.) the large village of _Bou-Sfer_ (486 ft.), on the well-watered N. slope of _Jebel Murjajo_, with its thriving farms where vegetables are largely grown. To Bou-Tlélis, see p. 185. From Bou-Sfer a road, with fine views, leads along the hill-side, and then across the saddle (768 ft.) between Jebel Murjajo and Jebel Santon, back to (22 M.) _St. André de Mers el-Kébir_. (3). A splendid walk, especially by evening light, is offered by the *=Promenade des Falaises= (Pl. G, H, 1), to the N.E. of Oran. Tramway No. 3 (p. 176) should be taken to the station outside the Porte d’Arzew (Pl. F, G, 3). Here we go to the left, skirting the town-walls, then to the N.E. across the harbour goods-line (p. 175), through the _Ravin Blanc_ at a distance from the battery of that name, and up the fields to the (20 min.) highly picturesque margin of the plateau, whence we survey the whole coast from Mers el-Kébir on the W. to the Pointe de l’Aiguille and Jebel Orouze to the N.E. A little farther on we reach an avenue of palms which leads in a curve to the (¼ hr.) tramway-terminus in the suburb of _Gambetta_ (Pl. H, 2). Good walkers, starting very early, may extend their excursion from the Promenade des Falaises to the _Pointe Canastel_ (784 ft.), near which ends the road coming from Gambetta (4 M.), and thence along the slope of _Jebel Kahar_ or _Montagne des Lions_ (2008 ft.), in 4–4½ hrs., to the Moorish village of =Kristel= (poor cafés), finely situated amid rich orange groves. Or, in calm weather, we may take a sailing-boat (see p. 176) from Oran to Kristel. We may now walk or ride (donkey 2½–3 fr.) up the steep hill to the saddle between Jebel Kahar and _Jebel Kristel_ (1970 ft.); then past the _Ferme Tazout_ (1105 ft.; to the left the iron and lead mines on _Jebel Borosse_, a spur of _Jebel Orouze_; p. 199) to the S.E., partly through underwood, and down to the (2½ hrs.) railway-station of _Saint-Cloud_ (p. 199). We may there take the train viâ _Damesme_ to _Arzew_ (p. 199) and return to Oran in the evening. FROM ORAN TO HAMMAM BOU-HADJAR, 45 M., steam-tramway twice daily (thrice on Sun., Mon., and Tues.) in 3¾–4¾ hrs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 95 c.). The line starts from the N. end of the Boul. Mascara (Pl. C, 4) and proceeds to the S.E. viâ (4 M.) _La Sénia_ (p. 185) to (7½ M.) _Valmy_ (p. 185), some distance beyond which it turns to the S.W. and runs parallel to the S. shore of the _Sebkha d’Oran_ (p. 185). 12 M. Arbal, on the N. spurs of _Jebel Tessala_ (p. 186); 25 M. _St. Maur_; 39 M. _Aïn el-Arba_. 45 M. _Hammam Bou-Hadjar_ (574 ft.), near which are the baths of that name (Hôt. des Bains, plain but good). The hot mineral water (135–167° Fahr.), resembling that of Ems, rises among the calc-sinter terraces of the _Fer à Cheval_. A cool spring (64° Fahr.), strongly impregnated with iron, is used for drinking. Excursion to _Misserghin_, see p. 185. 29. From Oran to Tlemcen. 102½ M. RAILWAY Train, with one 1st and 2nd cl. through-carriage, in 5¼–5¾ hrs.; (fares 18 fr. 55, 13 fr. 35 c., 10 fr.). Dep. from chief station (p. 175). As far as Aïn-Fezza (p. 186) finest views to the left. Railway Restaurant (D. 2 fr.) at Sidi Bel-Abbès only. MOTOR TRIP (p. 173) from Oran viâ Misserghin, Aïn-Temouchent, and Pont-de-l’Isser to (82½ M.) Tlemcen, returning viâ Sidi Bel-Abbès (128 M.), interesting; good road. Between _Lamur_ (p. 181) and _Victor-Hugo_, suburbs of Oran, the train crosses the Damesme and Perrégaux line (R. 32). Beyond the small salt-lake _Daya Morselli_, on the left, we enter the _Plaine du Figuier_, on the N. side of the _Sebkha d’Oran_, one of the largest salt-lakes in the Tell Atlas, 26 M. long and 6 M. broad. 3 M. _La Sénia_ (325 ft.), a Spanish village, with productive vegetable-gardens and vineyards; also a station on the steam-tramway from Oran to Hammam Bou-Hadjar (p. 184). To the S.W. from La Sénia diverges the ORAN AND AÏN-TEMOUCHENT LINE (from Oran 47½ M., in 2¼–3 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 60 c.). The train skirts the S. base of _Jebel Murjajo_ (p. 182), near the Sebkha d’Oran. 12½ M. _Misserghin_ (360 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, Hôt. de la Paix, both poor; pop. 4400), situated 9½ M. to the S.W. of Oran by the Tlemcen road, a spot much visited from Oran, possessing a large pépinière or nursery, and several monastic foundations; charming walk to the (2½ M.) _Ravin de la Vierge_ through luxuriant orange, lemon, mandarin, and banana groves.—22½ M. _Bou-Tlélis_ (295 ft.), whence a road leads viâ the _Forêt M’Sila_ and _El-Ançor_ to _Bou-Sfer_ (p. 184). 29½ M. _Lourmel_ (300 ft.), near the W. end of the salt-lake. 35 M. _Er-Rahel_ (450 ft.), connected by road (6¼ M.) with _Hammam Bou-Hadjar_ (p. 184). We cross the _Rio Salado_ (Arabic _Oued Malah_) to (40 M.) _Rio Salado_ (279 ft.), famed for its wine.—47½ M. =Aïn-Temouchent= (847 ft.; Royal Hotel; Hôt. de Londres; Hôt. de la Poste; pop. 7500), founded in 1851 on the site of the Roman _Albulae_, chiefly inhabited by Spaniards, lies amidst vineyards and orchards in the narrow valley of the _Oued Senane_, into which the _Oued Temouchent_ falls here. The Thurs. market is worth seeing. The ROAD TO TLEMCEN, 41 M. (diligence at 7 p.m. in 9 hrs., returning from Tlemcen at 9 p.m.; coupé 6 fr.) leads to the S.W. from Aïn-Temouchent through a hill-region, composed mainly of eruptive rock, and well-watered, to the thriving village of _Aïn-Kial_ (1477 ft.; noted for its cattle), crosses the pass (1998 ft.; fine views) of _Jebel Sebaa-Chioukh_, and then descends past the onyx-quarries of the hill-village of _Tekbalet_ to the _Isser Valley_. 20½ M. _Pont-de-l’Isser_ (807 ft.; Hôt. Pomarès, humble), a village amid orange-gardens and olive-groves, is almost purely Mohammedan. The road, now shadeless, affording fine glimpses of Tlemcen, ascends for a long time in the valley of the _Oued el-Guettara_, and reaches (37½ M.) _Safsaf_ (2493 ft.) and (41 M.) _Tlemcen_ (2658 ft.; p. 187). Another road (23 M.; omn. at 9 a.m.) leads to the W. from Aïn-Temouchent to the little seaport of _Beni-Saf_, the outlet for the iron-ores of the Comp. du Mokta el-Hadid (p. 303). From Beni-Saf a road (omn. at 6.45 a.m., in 9 hrs.; 5 fr.) leads viâ (5½ M.) _Rachgoun_ (opposite the island mentioned at p. 125) into the fertile valley of the _Tafna_, the ancient _Siga_, and to (8¾ M.) _Takembrit_, the modern name for the ruins of the once important Roman town of _Siga_. Then, beyond the confluence of the Isser with the Tafna, the road reaches (27½ M.) _Montagnac_ (735 ft.) and (36 M.) _Hennaya_ (1346 ft.), whence it ascends to (42½ M.) _Tlemcen_ (2658 ft.). The TLEMCEN RAILWAY, beyond La Sénia, crosses the Plaine du Figuier, and beyond (6 M.) _Valmy_ (p. 184) nears the salt-works on the Sebkha d’Oran (p. 185). 16 M. _Ste. Barbe-du-Tlélat_ (492 ft.) is noted for its table grapes. Our train here diverges to the S.E. from the line to Perrégaux and Algiers (R. 33), and follows the vine-clad valley of the _Oued Tlélat_. Beyond (20 M.) _St. Lucien_ we pass a barrage or reservoir. 26 M. _Les Lauriers-Roses_ lies on the N.E. spurs of _Jebel Tessala_ (3481 ft.), the mountain which separates the great and fertile tableland of Sidi Bel-Abbès, one of the granaries of the province, from the basin of the Sebkha d’Oran. The train crosses the _Col des Ouled-Ali_ and the _Oued Imbert_ (1578 ft.) in the fertile valley of that name, and reaches the top of the tableland. 38½ M. _Les Trembles_ (1375 ft.); the village lies on a height to the left, between the _Oued Mekerra_ (Sig, p. 206) and its affluent _Oued Sarno_. We then ascend the Mekerra valley to (42½ M.) _Prudon_ (1477 ft.), where many of the wine-growers are Germans, old soldiers of the French foreign legion. 48½ M. =Sidi Bel-Abbès= (1542 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient & Continental; Hôt. des Voyageurs; pop. 29,080), a prosperous agricultural town, was founded in 1849 on the plan of a Roman camp, with streets at right angles, and is surrounded by suburbs occupied mainly by Spanish immigrants. This is the headquarters of the _Légion Etrangère_, composed mainly of adventurers and deserters from Germany and other countries, the first regiment of whom is located here and the second at Saïda (p. 201). The legion is for the most part stationed on the Sahara railway (p. 199), in Morocco, or in the colonies. Great market on Thursdays. Outside the S. gate, the Porte de Tlemcen, are pleasant public grounds (concerts). _A. E. W. Mason’s_ novel ‘The Truants’ (London, 1904) deals with the Foreign Legion. 62½ M. _Tabia_ (2035 ft.), the next important station, is the junction for a line to (48 M.) _Crampel_ (_Ras el-Ma_), used chiefly for the esparto traffic (p. 171). We now near the main chain of the Tell Atlas of Oran. 77½ M. _Aïn-Tellout_, with the spring of that name and a waterfall. 83 M. _Lamoricière_ (2349 ft.), in a fertile tract, on the _Isser_. Near _Hadjar-Roum_, to the E. of the station, lay the Roman _Altava_. 89½ M. _Oued-Chouly_, on the brook of that name, which bursts forth in cascades from a ravine to join the Isser. Near this, at _Sidi-Hamza_, are considerable onyx-quarries. The train now ascends rapidly to (97 M.) _Aïn-Fezza_ (2855 ft.). We next enter the upper *_Safsaf Valley_, enclosed by the high limestone slopes of _Jebel Hanif_ (3928 ft.) and _Jebel Chouka_ (3786 ft.), and in a sharp bend, passing through several tunnels, sweep round the gorge of _El-Ourit_ (p. 196), with its waterfalls. We skirt the foot of _Sidi Bou-Médine_ (p. 194), obtaining a beautiful view of the fertile hill-country to the right, and run through olive-groves to (102½ M.) _Tlemcen_ (see p. 187). [Illustration: TLEMCEN] 30. Tlemcen. The STATION lies to the E., 6 min. beyond the Porte de Sidi Bou-Médine (Pl. D, 2, 3). HOTELS. _Hôtel de France_ (Pl. b; C, 3), Rue de Fez, R. 2½–4, B. 1¼, déj. 3. D. 4, pens. 9–12, omn. 1 fr.; _Hôtel Charles_ (Pl. a; C, 2), Place des Victoires, R. 3, B. ¾, déj. or D. 3, pens. 7½, omn. 1 fr., good, though plain, with restaurant.—CAFÉS in the Place de la Mairie, Place des Victoires, etc. CARRIAGES (mostly with three horses, poor but not dear; fares according to bargain) in the Place des Victoires and Esplanade du Méchouar. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. B, 2), Boulevard National. ONE DAY AND A HALF. 1st. Forenoon, *_Great Mosque_ (p. 189), _Museum_ (p. 190), *_Sidi el-Haloui Mosque_ (p. 191), _Agâdir_ (p. 196); afternoon, *_Mansura_ (p. 193).—2nd. *_Sidi Bou-Médine_ (p. 194). Mosques open daily 8–11 a.m.; at other times a permit of the sub-prefect (see Pl. B, 2) is required (comp. also p. 174). _Tlemcen_ (2658 ft.), the old capital of the central Maghreb (Maghreb el-Oust), was in the middle ages, along with Fez, one of the great trading stations between the W. Sahara and the Mediterranean, and had a factory of the Genoese and the Venetians. It is now, after Oran, the most important town in the province, with 37,300 inhab. (including 25,500 Mohammedans, chiefly Berbers and Moors, and 5000 Jews); it possesses the only Medersa (p. 228) in the province of Oran, founded in 1904, and is the chief military post on the W. frontier of Algeria. The town is very charmingly situated on a flat hill at the base of a ridge crowned with the _Kubba Lalla-Setti_ (3363 ft.), a spur of the _Jebel Terni_ or _Massif de Tlemcen_. Beyond the extensive hilly region to the N., sloping steeply down to the valleys of the Isser and the Tafna (p. 185), we descry the bold mountains of the Traras group (p. 198) and of Jebel Sebaa-Chioukh (p. 185). The nearer environs of the town, on the upper margin of the plateau, are exuberantly fertile. Luxuriant fruit-bearing hedges are interspersed with groves of gigantic olive, carob, and pistachio trees, from whose shade peep forth the white domes of numerous tombs of saints (p. 172). Tlemcen still contains historic memorials of its mediæval prime and a number of Moorish works of art, mostly of the Abdelwadite and Merinide periods (p. 188). These last, like the buildings of Fez and Kairwan (p. 372), are among the most interesting in Barbary. Their great charm consists in the fact that their native characteristics have been preserved in a picturesque environment where customs and dress differ but slightly from those of the ancient East. _Pomaria_, the earliest settlement in this region, was once, like Altava (p. 186) and Numerus Syrorum (p. 197), a Roman camp for the defence of the most important military road in Mauretania Cæsariensis (p. 244), but in Roman times, notwithstanding its favourable position, it was outstripped by Siga (p. 185). On its site, by the time of Sidi Okba (p. 322), there had already sprung up the Berber settlement of _Agâdir_, which, under Idris I. (p. 95) in 790, became the fortified capital of the E. province of Morocco for defence against the Kharijite kingdom in Tiaret (p. 208). For seven centuries from that time onwards it was involved in all the party struggles for the possession of Barbary. During the conflicts of Omaiyades (p. 69) and Fatimites (p. 323), the governors of Agâdir, descendants of Solaïmân ben-Abdallah, brother of Idris I., maintained their position as vassals of one or other of these dynasties, but in 973 the town was sacked by Bologgîn ez-Ziri (p. 323) in the course of a war against the Omaiyades. In 1081 the Almoravide Yûsuf ibn Têshufîn (p. 95) appeared before the gates of Agâdir, and on the site of his camp (Berber ‘tagrârt’) founded the new town of _Tagrârt_, afterwards the _Telensîn_ or _Tlimsân_ of the Moors, and united W. Algeria with Morocco. In 1145 the vicinity of Tagrârt witnessed the decisive battle between Tâkhfîn ben-Ali (p. 183) and Abd el-Mûmen (p. 95) which sealed the fate of the Almoravide kingdom. Since then Tagrârt appears in history as the seat of Almohade governors of the family of Abd el-Wâd, settled near Tlemcen, a branch of the powerful Berber tribe of the Zenata, and also as a military camp, while the lower classes only inhabited Agâdir. The fall of the Almohades (p. 95) gave rise to the kingdom of Tlemcen, which was soon extended to the W. to the Mulûya (p. 124) and to the E. to Bougie (p. 262). The first independent monarch was Yarmorâsen ben-Zeiyân (1239–82), of the _Abdelwadites_, who, with the aid of Moorish artists from Andalusia, transformed Tlemcen, his capital, into a rival of Fez as one of the most brilliant art-centres in Barbary. Embellished in legend and in poetry, and most famous among episodes in the annals or the Maghreb were the two sieges of Tlemcen by the Merinides (p. 95). The first siege by Abû Yakûb and his grandson Abû-Tsâbit Omar (1299–1307) commenced with the foundation of the fortified town of _El-Mahalla el-Mansura_, which, saving the mosque, was razed to the ground by the Abdelwadites after the withdrawal of the Moroccan army, but was rebuilt by Abû’l-Hasen Ali (1335–7) on the occasion of the second, and this time successful, siege of Tlemcen. To the brief sway of the _Merinides_ (1337–59) Tlemcen is indebted for almost all the important buildings outside of its walls. The chief residence of Abû’l-Hasen Ali (d. 1348), next to Fez, was Mansura, where he erected a new ‘palace of victory’ as his kasba; but the place was abandoned under Abû Inân Fâres (1348–58), and from that time down to the French period it merely served as a stone-quarry. During the brilliant reign of Abû Hammu Mûsa II. (1359–89), the first of the _Ziyanides_ (1359–1517), the younger Abdelwadite dynasty, his court vied with that of Granada as a resort of artists, poets, and scholars; but from that time onwards Tlemcen shared the general decadence of Barbary. It was not only the chief scene of all the conflicts between the Merinides and Hafsides (p. 323), but was grievously torn by internal dissensions also, so that it soon lost all importance. After the overthrow of the Ziyanides by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221), and after a short occupation by the Spaniards (1518), Tlemcen became a poor provincial town in the beylic of Oran. The present town-walls (1855–6) and a whole new quarter are creations of the French régime, under which, in 1842, Tlemcen was incorporated with their new colony of Algeria. Comp. _Marçais’s_ book on Tlemcen mentioned at p. 175 and _A. Bel’s_ ‘Tlemcen et ses Environs’ (Oran, 1909). From the Porte de Sidi Bou-Médine (Pl. D, 2, 3), the chief gate of the town, the Rue de Sidi Bel-Abbès leads in 2 min. to the ESPLANADE DU MÉCHOUAR (Pl. C, 3), planted with fine plane-trees. On the left rises the— =Méchouar= (Arabic _meshwâr_, the king’s castle), the residence of the Abdelwadites and Ziyanides, erected by Yarmorâsen about 1255, a great quadrangular pile, forming like the Alhambra a complete quarter of the town. The building was largely destroyed during a revolt against Hassan, Bey of Mascara, in 1670, and in 1842 was replaced by French barracks. The only relics of the original edifice are the _Castle Wall_, built by Abû’l-Abbâs Ahmed, the thirteenth Ziyanide, with its modern clock-tower of 1843, and the _Castle Mosque_, founded in 1317, which was long used as a storehouse. The latter, having been converted into a chapel for the military hospital, has lost its original character in the interior (adm. on application). From the E. end of the Esplanade the Rue du Théâtre leads to the PLACE DES VICTOIRES (Pl. C, D, 2), planted with trees, from the parapet of which we look down on the E. Mohammedan quarter (p. 191) and the hills of the Safsaf valley. A little to the N.W. is the PLACE DE LA MAIRIE (Pl. C, 2), which, together with the Place d’Alger (p. 190) on its W. side, forms the business centre of the town. On its S. side rises the _Mairie_ (Pl. C, 2), erected in 1843. In the court are two onyx columns from Mansura, bearing two huge stone balls which were thrown into the town during one of the Merinide sieges. The *=Great Mosque= (Pl. C, 2; Arabic _Jâma el-Kebîr_), the back of which bounds the N. side of the square, now the only edifice of the Almoravide period at Tlemcen, is very important in art-history as one of the few Moorish buildings of the 12th cent. that have survived without alteration. The inscription on the frieze of the drum of the mihrâb dome records the name of the founder, the caliph Ali ibn Yûsuf, who with the aid of Andalusian artists erected the court and the house of prayer adjacent to the _Kasr el-Kadîm_, or royal castle, in 1135–8. The minaret was not added till the reign of Yarmorâsen (after 1250). The kubba at the S.W. angle, adjoining the Rue de France, once perhaps the tomb of Yarmorâsen and several of the Ziyanides, now contains the vault of _Mohammed ben-Merzûg_. On the E. side of the mosque, near the old vine in the side-street, is a second saint’s tomb, the kubba of _Ahmed Bel-Hasen el-Ghomari_ (d. 1466). The library, a later addition next to the minaret, has been removed by the French. The square court of the mosque, which we enter on the E. side, is flanked on three sides by triple or quadruple arcades; the two aisles of the N. arcade, which precede the minaret, are of later date. The irregular plan of the arcades and of the main portal leading into the nave of the mosque was probably due to the situation of the castle. The onyx pavement of the court is preserved in part only. The INTERIOR, consisting of a central nave (15 by 10½ ft.) with twelve narrower aisles, is entered by five portals on the S. side of the court, whose arches are of round or pointed horseshoe form or multifoil, and also by two E. portals. The arcades, whose arches are mostly horseshoe-shaped, but in a few cases pointed, rest on short pillars. The open roof is well preserved. The nave is crowned with two domes, the nearer rising behind the sedda (p. 180), while the second, over the mihrâb chapel, shows beginnings of stalactite vaulting. The great candelabrum under the central dome is modern and is for the most part an imitation of the old one said to have been presented by Yarmorâsen and now in the Museum (see below). The mimbar and kursi (p. 451) are of no artistic value, and the maksûra (p. 71) has disappeared. The elegant stucco ornamentation of the *Mihrâb, which even extends to the exterior, where the stone slabs are framed with multifoil arches, recalls the mosque of Cordova. The prayer-niche is lighted by three perforated windows of plaster. Behind the mihrâb is the sacristy. The MINARET, 115 ft. high, resembling the tower of Agâdir (p. 196), affords a beautiful view of the town and environs. On the W. side of the PLACE D’ALGER (Pl. C, 2), where the ruins of the famous _Medersa Jadîda_ or _Tâkhfînîya_, a school for the learned erected by the Abdelwadite Abû Tâkhfîn (1322–37), existed down to 1876, rises the— *=Sidi Bel-Hassen Mosque=, now the _Museum_ (Pl. 2, B, C, 2; custodian in the court of the Mairie; fee ½ fr.), erected in 1296 by the Abdelwadite Abû Saïd Otsmân. It consists of nave and two aisles, with a low minaret. Used by the French successively as a storehouse and a school, it was carefully restored in 1900, and is now a perfect gem in the interior. The stucco *Decoration of the walls, preserved in part only, with its rich and graceful arabesques (p. 445), and the geometrical ornamentation of the round-arched plaster windows, recall the sumptuous rooms of the Alcázar at Seville and the Alhambra of Granada. The half-dome of the **Mihrâb, whose horseshoe mural arch rests on two small columns of onyx, is borne by stalactite or honeycomb vaulting. The ancient roof of cedar is well preserved in the left aisle only. Below the two friezes with Cufic inscriptions adjoining the Mihrâb are fragments, built into the wall, of fayence tiles from the old Medersa Tâkhfînîya and the Méchouar. The beautiful onyx basin once belonged to the latrine-court of the Great Mosque. Along the walls are several Roman and numerous Mohammedan tombstones, some of them belonging to kings of Tlemcen. Near the entrance is the so-called Coudée Royale, a marble slab from the Kessaria (comp. p. 191), bearing an ell-measure and regulations for the trade of Christian merchants with the natives (1328). In the second room are the old candelabrum and remains of the old maksûra of the Great Mosque (comp. above), Moorish and Turkish tiles, etc. On the first floor is the _Geological Museum_. The dirty streets to the S. of the Place de la Mairie and the Place d’Alger, which have been laid out in straight lines under the French régime, belong to the _Jewish Quarter_, where, however, a few of the old one-storied houses with a kind of sunken flat, still survive. A pleasanter walk may be taken through the =Mohammedan Quarters=, especially that to the E. of the Place de la Mairie, where we may witness, especially on market-day (Mon.), the most lively and picturesque scenes of native life. The busiest points are the _Marché Couvert_ (Pl. C, 2) in the Place du Kessaria, where the Italian merchants had their offices in the middle ages, and also the Rue de Mascara (Pl. C, D, 2, 1) and the Rue Kaldoun (Pl. C, D, 1). Adjoining the Rue de Mascara, once the Sûk el-Berada’in (saddlers’ market), is an impasse called the Derb el-Msoufa, in which is situated the little _Mosque of Sidi Senoussi_ (Pl. D, 2; his tomb is near Sidi Bou-Médine, p. 194), with a graceful minaret inlaid with tiles and a small house of prayer on the first floor. In the street between the Rue de Mascara and the Rue Kaldoun are the so-called BAINS DES TEINTURIERS (Pl. D, 1; _Hammâm es-Sebbâghîn_), an ancient Moorish bath-house (12th cent.?), the plan of which seems to have been an exact copy of the Roman bath. The ante-room, now much altered, was apparently the tepidarium. Straight on we come to the apodyterium, a domed room on twelve short mediæval columns, with a gallery running round it. To the left of this room is the caldarium in three sections, with the heating apparatus on the E. side. The S. side-room is the frigidarium. At the end of the Rue Kaldoun we leave the town by the Porte de l’Abattoir (Pl. D, 1; road to Agâdir, see p. 196), and turn to the left, skirting the town-walls, above the dilapidated _Sidi Lahsen Mosque_, built by Abû’l-Abbâs Ahmed (p. 189), which has an elegant minaret and an interior restored in the Turkish period. On a slope near the N.E. angle of the town-walls, below the railway, and formerly below the Bâb Sidi’l-Haloui, is the tomb of the saint of that name (d. 1307), adjoined by the— *=Sidi el-Haloui Mosque=, a creation of the Merinide Abû Inân Fâres (p. 188). The pinnacled outer gateway leads to the now freely restored chief portal, with its fine inlaid mosaic tiles, two friezes with inscriptions, and a projecting timber roof. The ground-plan of this mosque is similar to that of the slightly earlier mosque of Sidi Bou-Médine (p. 194). From the court, enclosed by a single arcade, we enter the house of prayer with its nave (11 ft. broad), double aisles (10 ft.), and transept. The square mihrâb chapel is covered by a slightly elevated tiled roof instead of a dome. The old timber ceiling of the interior has recently been much restored, and remains of the superb stucco decoration have lately been brought to light from under the whitewash. The mihrâb has lost all its rich ornamentation save the stalactite vaulting. The eight onyx *Columns, brought from Mansura, which support the pointed horseshoe arches of the arcades, are remarkable for their beautiful capitals in the Moorish style. The minaret added at the W. angle of the court, with its multifoil arched niches in the two lower stories and reticulated work on the upper, resembles that of the mosque of Sidi Bou-Médine. A portal opposite with a projecting roof leads to the domed _Latrines_. We now follow the path to the W., skirting the town-walls, and affording fine views, to the Porte du Nord (Pl. B, 1), through which we enter the Rue de France. From this street the Boulevard National soon diverges to the right to the large PLACE CAVAIGNAC (Pl. B, 1, 2), the chief square in the uniformly built French quarter. The font in the church of _St. Michel_ (Pl. B, 2) came from the mosque of Mansura. On the E. side of the church runs the Rue Ximénès, intersecting the whole town. This street, or the Rue de la Victoire (Pl. C, B, 2), which begins at the Place d’Algier, forms the chief approach to the _S. W. Mohammedan Quarter_, which was inhabited in the Turkish period mainly by Kuluglis (p. 171). At the S. end of the Rue Ximénès, on the left, is the interesting _Ecole Professionnelle Indigène de Tapis_ (Pl. C, 4; adm. daily 8–11 and 2–5, except on Sun., Frid., and great festivals). The busy Rue Haëdo, prolonging the Rue de la Victoire, leads to the S.W. to the Porte de Fez (Pl. A, 4). In the Rue Sidi-Brahim, the first side-street on the left, is the— SIDI BRAHIM MOSQUE (Pl. B, 3), formerly belonging to the _Medersa Yakûbîya_. The Medersa was built in 1362 by Abû Hammu Mûsa II. (p. 188), and named after his father, but the last vestiges of it were removed in 1846. This small mosque, with nave and double aisles, received its present decoration in the Turkish period. The mihrâb, adorned with the Turkish crescent, has mural tiles with gold lustre in the Gubbio style. The present pulpit, from which the Friday prayer was recited for the Kuluglis, was executed by the Turkish artist Mohammed Ben-Hasen Ben-Ferfara (1831–2), and the door of the old sacristy was carved by Sâlim Bu-Jenân Ben-Ferfara. The _Kubba of Sidi Brahim_ (d. 1401), adjoining the mosque, still contains its old geometric stucco decoration and mosaic tiles. The _Oulâd el-Imâm Mosque_ (Pl. B, 3), to the N. of the Rue Haëdo, was built about 1310 by the Abdelwadite Abû Hammu I. as a chapel for the Medersa el-Kadîma, the oldest school of the learned at Tlemcen, but is now in a sad state of ruin. The minaret still shows traces of fayence mosaics. The fine mihrâb was probably redecorated under the Ziyanides. In the Rue d’Hennaya, near the Fez Gate, rises the modern _Medersa_ (Pl. A, B, 3), a tasteful new-Moorish edifice (visitors admitted). To the W. of the modern town-walls, between the Porte de Fez and the Porte d’Oran, lies the =Grand Bassin= (Pl. A, 3; Arabic _Sahrîj el-Kebîr_ or _ben-Bedda_), a large reservoir, similar to the reservoirs of Kairwan and Marakesh, constructed of concrete, 220 yds. long, 110 yds. broad, and 10 ft. deep, now used as a drill-ground. It is said to have been made by Abû Tâkhfîn (p. 190). According to a tradition the last of the Ziyanide dynasty were drowned here by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221) in 1517. To the N.W. of the French town-walls, between the Porte d’Oran and the Porte du Nord (p. 192), rises the *=Bâb el-Kermâdîn= (Pl. A, 1; potters’ gate), which already existed in the time of Yarmorâsen (p. 188), so named from the potsherds contained in its concrete masonry. The gateway, with its four towers and quadrangle, resembles the propugnaculum of late-Roman town fortifications. * * * * * The *=Ruins of Mansura=, the old entrenched town of the Merinides (p. 188), are reached from the Porte de Fez (p. 192) by the road to Lalla-Marnia (p. 197), to the S.W., in 20–25 min. (carr. there and back 2½–3 fr.), The road passes (¼ hr.) the so-called _Bâb el-Khemîs_, a brick structure of unknown use, now much restored. A little above it are the ruins of a second building of uncertain origin (possibly the ancient _Mosalla_). In 6 min. more we reach the old *_Town Wall_ of Mansura, near the former E. gate of the town, within the precincts of which, to the left, above the road, is ensconced the modern agricultural village of Mansura amid luxuriant vegetation. The walls, 40 ft. high, constructed of concrete, enclose a great irregular quadrilateral space of about 4400 yds. in length, and are still largely preserved on the N.W. and S.W. sides. Of the towers, about 80 in number, connected by a crenellated passage, most are rectangular in form, but the four far-projecting corner-towers, like the eight gate-towers, are quadrangular. Near the old E. gate, above the road, are a _Bridge_ and remains of a rudely paved _Street_ of the Merinide period. Of the old _Palace of Victory_, the Kasba of Abû’l-Hasen Ali (p. 188), once sumptuously fitted up, there are now, on the highest ground in the town precincts, at the S.E. angle of the present village, a few scanty relics only, the chief of which is the inner court, resembling the myrtle court of the Alhambra (p. 83). Close to the old W. gate, on a plateau above the road, rises the **_Mansura Tower_ (130 ft.), the minaret of the chief mosque, founded by Abû Yakûb (p. 188). The back-wall, the staircase, the upper platform, and the muezzin’s turret have fallen in, but the ruin, with its golden-toned masonry glowing in the sunshine, its peaceful surroundings, and the superb view from its base, has an indescribable charm. The ruin was restored in 1877. The portal of the minaret formed the central entrance to the court of the mosque. Of the three concentric gateway arches the inmost horseshoe arch, resting on two onyx columns, has been entirely renewed. The first story here, as in no other Moorish minaret, is adorned with a balcony, borne by corner brackets and stalactite pendentives, now without columns. The second story, relieved by narrow window openings, has the usual reticulated ornamentation, while the upper story is adorned with multifoil arched niches. Remains of the fayence mosaics are still visible at places. The custodian, who has generally to be asked for in the village, shows the ruins of the court and of the mosque itself, which once had thirteen arcades. * * * * * The hill-village of =Sidi Bou-Médine= (2841 ft.), picturesquely situated amid olive-groves on the slopes of _Jebel Mefroûch_, 20 min. to the E. of Tlemcen, contains, like Mansura, some of the finest existing memorials of the Merinide period. It was once named _Eubbâd el-Fûki_ (‘upper Eubbâd’), and at a very early period belonged to a monastery, the _Ribât el-Eubbâd_, but it derives its present name from _Sidi Abû-Median_, a scholar from Seville (about 1126–97), who was buried here by order of the Almohade Mohammed en-Nâsir (1198–1213). Around the kubba of that great scholar and saint, which for centuries attracted countless pilgrims, are grouped the buildings of the Merinide sovereigns. The road to Sidi Bou-Médine, only the lower half of which is fit for driving, branches to the right from the Sidi Bel-Abbès and Aïn-Temouchent road, 2 min. from the Porte de Sidi Bou-Médine, and passes below the _Mohammedan Cemetery_ (makbara), with its wealth of cypresses. By the wayside are a number of saints’ tombs, mostly in ruins, among which is the kubba of _Sidi Senoussi_ (d. 1490), with its green-tiled roof. We pass also the remains of mosque walls and a ruined minaret, which belonged to the village of _Eubbâd es-Sefli_ (‘lower Eubbâd’) once situated here. We ascend through a defile shaded with fine old fig and cherry trees, and soon reach the lower entrance of the village, whence we go straight on to the mosque, with its conspicuous minaret, and the kubba of the saint (guide quite needless). The outer gateway, decorated anew in the later Turkish period, with its clumsy wooden penthouse in front, is the entrance to a forecourt, within which are the two sacred edifices and the _Maison de l’Oukil_ (now the works-office), a building of the time of Mohammed el-Kebîr (p. 178), on the site of the ancient Zaouïa or pilgrims’ hospice. The _Kubba of Sidi Bou-Médine_, to which steps descend to the left under the penthouse, was restored by the Merinide Abû’l-Hasen Ali (p. 188), and towards the end of the 18th cent. was injured by a fire. It owes its present decoration, save the four onyx columns from Mansura and the sacred fountain in the vestibule, to Mohammed el-Kebîr, whose artist, named in the inscription on the frieze of the gateway, was El-Hâshmi ben-Sarmashîk (1793). The vault, richly garnished with flags, ostrich-eggs, votive offerings, etc., contains the coffins of Sidi Abû-Median and the Tunisian saint Sidi Abd es-Selâm side by side (custodian 20–30 c.). The *=Mosque=, erected in 1339 by Abû’l-Hasen Ali, about the same date as the myrtle-court palace of the Alhambra (comp. p. 80), is one of the most brilliant creations of the exuberant Moorish art of the 14th cent.; and, thanks to the sanctity of its site, it has survived the wars of the Ziyanide age and resisted the decadence of the Turkish period without serious damage. The custodian is usually to be found in the vestibule of the gateway. The **_Chief Portal_, now skilfully restored, is a masterpiece of artistic decoration. The superb outer gateway, whose lofty horseshoe arch opens into the vestibule, is lavishly enriched with fayence mosaics, which show beautiful arabesque patterns in the rectangular stonework of the doorway, and geometrical designs above the frieze with the inscriptions. The gateway is crowned by a tiled roof resting on narrow brackets. Eleven steps ascend to the vestibule, where the stucco decoration of the upper wall-surfaces vies in beauty with the stalactites of the dome. At the inner gateway the lower part of the doors of cedar-wood has been skilfully encrusted anew with bronze. The door-knockers resemble those of the present Puerta del Perdón at Cordova (p. 70). We now cross the simple _Court of the Mosque_, flanked with single arcades, to the _Mosque_ itself, with its nave and double aisles. The somewhat broader nave and the transept by the wall of the mihrâb recall the ground-plan of Sidi Okba’s Mosque at Kairwan (p. 374). The arcades, whose horseshoe arches, like those in the court, rest on pillars of masonry, and all the wall-surfaces are encrusted with stucco. The richly coffered stucco ceiling of the aisles is well preserved, but the perforated dome of the mihrâb chapel was tastelessly restored in the later Turkish period. The *Mihrâb, with its stalactite half-dome, its friezes with Cufic inscriptions, and the three perforated plaster windows, deserves special attention. The capitals of the two onyx columns which support the horseshoe arch of the niche are the finest at Tlemcen. The pulpit is modern. The *_Minaret_, like the Kutubia at Marakesh, which it resembles in its lowest story, still shows the three copper balls on its muezzin-turret. The rosette ornamentation under the platform is peculiar. The ascent is recommended for the sake of the fine survey we obtain of the village and the beautiful view of the hilly plain of Tlemcen with the minarets of Agâdir (p. 196) and Mansura. A few paces above the outer gateway of the mosque court a flight of steps on the right ascends to the old =Medersa=, now a national school. This edifice, erected by Abû’l-Hasen Ali in 1347, is the only learned school of the kind still preserved in Barbary, besides that of Marakesh; but it has been almost entirely restored, first by Mohammed el-Kebîr about 1793, and lately by the French government. The building is usually shown by the teacher (50 c.). The portal, ornamented with fayence mosaics and surmounted by a projecting roof like the chief door of the neighbouring mosque, opens into a court, adorned with a fountain and flanked with an arcade. On each side are six cells for the students (tholba, sing. thaleb); and there are four others in the small court adjoining the S.E. angle. The niches in the walls for the books and lamps of the students should be noticed. In the centre of the S. wall of the court is the entrance to the old room for study and prayer, with a mihrâb and a wooden dome which was probably restored in the time of Mohammed el-Kebîr. The stucco enrichment of the walls is best preserved on the entrance side. The old court of ablutions adjoins the N.W. angle of the main quadrangle. The platform of the upper floor of the court, where there are twelve more cells, affords the best view of the minaret of the mosque. At a small house near the Medersa we obtain the key (fee 30 c.) of the so-called _Petit Palais d’el-Eubbâd_, a ruin popularly called _Dâr es-Soltân_ (palace of the sultan), situated below the Kubba of Sidi Bou-Médine. The building, which also dates from the Merinide period, was more probably a hospice for the richer pilgrims. It comprises three courts with small side-rooms or alcoves, like those of the Alhambra, and remains of baths and latrines. A visit to it hardly repays if time is limited. On the way to the ‘Dâr es-Soltân’ we pass the _Latrine Court_ of the mosque and the so-called _Kubba of Sidi el-Eubbâd_. From (2 min. farther) the E. end of the village we may descend, and cross the railway, to (6 min.) the Sidi Bel-Abbès road. This road leads to the E. through olive-groves, and then, turning to the S., through the _Safsaf Valley_ to (¾ hr., or from Tlemcen 1 hr.) the gorge of *=El-Ourit= (p. 186; carr. there and back 4–5 fr.). The bridge across it affords a fine view of the valley and the lower waterfalls. (Rfmts.) * * * * * The road to Aïn-Temouchent (p. 185) diverges to the left from the Sidi Bel-Abbès road, at a point 10 min. from the Porte de Sidi Bou-Médine (p. 188), and about ½ M. farther passes near the gorge of the _Oued Metchkâna_, which lies a little to the left. Here, beneath superb old terebinths (p. 202), on the site of the old _Cemetery of Agadîr_ (‘Cimetière de Sidi Yacoub’), are situated the pretty kubba of _Sidi Wahhâb_, the oldest saint of this region, said to have been a companion of the prophet, and the so-called _Tombeau de la Sultane_, a dilapidated octagonal domed building (12th cent.?), which served in 1412 as a tomb for a Ziyanide princess. The ruins of =Agâdir= (p. 187) may be reached in about 10 min. from the Porte de l’Abattoir (Pl. D, 1; p. 191) by the old Safsaf road to the N.E. (p. 185). Of the chief mosque founded here by Idris I. (p. 95) the only relic is the elegant *_Minaret_, 105 ft. in height, erected by Yarmorâsen at the same time as the tower of the Great Mosque (p. 190). The substructures, 19 ft. high, composed of Roman blocks of stone from the ancient Pomaria, and with Roman inscriptions built into them outside and in the staircase, probably belonged to an earlier minaret.—A little to the E., beyond the ravine, are preserved a few fragments of the _E. Wall_ of Agâdir built by the Berbers. A few paces to the N. of the road rises the handsome _Kubba of Sidi’d-Dâoudi_ (d. 1011); the present building is probably of the Merinide period. 31. Prom Tlemcen to Nemours viâ Lalla-Marnia. 64 M. RAILWAY to (36½ M.) Lalla-Marnia (two trains daily in ca. 2¼ hrs.; fares 6 fr. 65, 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 55 c.), going on thence to (43 M.) _Zoudj-el-Beghal_, the terminus on the Moroccan frontier. The RAILWAY, admirably engineered, skirts the N. side of Tlemcen, and then, near the Bâb el-Kermâdîn (p. 193), turns to the S.E. to (3 M.) _Mansura_ (p. 193) and crosses the _Col du Juif_ (2664 ft.). Behind us there is a fine view of Tlemcen, while the distant view extends to the Plaine des Angad and Jebel Beni Snassen (see below). We next skirt the N. spurs of the _Jebel Terni_ group (p. 187) and pass through superb valleys and ravines. 7½ M. _Aïn-Douz._ Beyond (9½ M.) _Zelboun_ we are carried through the valley of the _Oued Zitoun_, one of the chief tributaries of the Tafna (p. 185). 18½ M. =Turenne= (1969 ft.; Hôt. Fournier and Hôt. Leclerc, poor), a thriving village in a well-watered region. Esparto is the chief export. 28½ M. _Sidi-Medjahed_, with a camp of wedded spahis (p. 390). 31 M. _Tralimet_. 36½ M. =Lalla-Marnia= (1197 ft.; Hôt. de France; Hôt. de la Renaissance), properly _Lalla-Maghrnia_, on the site of the Roman castle of _Numerus Syrorum_, was founded in 1844 on the occasion of the campaign against Morocco, and named after the tomb of a female saint. It is now the most important frontier-town of the province of Oran; it was made a free mart in 1895, and holds a great Sunday *Market, much frequented by Moroccans. Lalla-Marnia forms the portal of the _Plaine des Angad_ or _Plaine d’Oudjda_. This great plateau is bounded on the N. by the _Traras Group_ (p. 198) and the fertile _Jebel Beni Snassen_ (4659 ft.), both inhabited by Berber tribes only, and on the S. by the main chain of the Tell Atlas. The old caravan route to Fez by Tâza, the key to N. Morocco, has been the scene of all the expeditions of the Arabs against Morocco ever since that of Sidi Okba in the 7th century. From Lalla-Marnia a new road (motor-omnibus twice daily) leads to the S.W., crossing the frontier of Morocco halfway, to (ca. 15 M.) =Oudjda= or _Ujda_ (2241 ft.; Hôt. Figari, good, quarters should be engaged by telegraph; pop. ca. 8000), the chief town of E. Morocco, which is said to have been founded by the governors of Tlemcen in the 10th cent., and was occupied by the French in 1814, 1859, and 1907. The picturesque town, the most fertile oasis in the Angad steppe, lies amidst orchards and olive-groves, not far from the _Oued Isly_, the battle-field of 1844 (p. 221). We enter the town, passing the kubba of Oudjda, by the N. gate (Bâb el-Khemis). Straight on is the French Consulate in a pretty garden, while to the left are the Custom House and Post Office. In the S. quarter of the town rises the _Kasba_ or _Dâr el-Makhzen_, the seat of the Moroccan Amel or governor. At the N. angle of the Kasba is the _Chief Mosque_, dedicated to Sidi Okba, to the N.E. of which lies the _Sûk_ (p. 335). Behind the mosque is the new _Ecole Franco-Arabe_. Outside the E. gate, the Bâb Sidi Abd el-Wahhâb, is the camping-ground of the caravans; and outside the S. gate (Bâb Oulad Amran), on a slight eminence 10 min. from the town, are the quarters of the French troops of occupation. The Thursday market is important. Famous horse-races in October, in connection with those of Lalla-Marnia. For a visit to Oudjda travellers may use also the railway as far as _Zoudj-el-Beghal_ (comp. p. 197) on the Moroccan frontier, whence Oudjda is about 8 M. distant. The ROAD TO NEMOURS (diligence) leads to the N. from Lalla-Marnia through a hilly region, crosses the _Oued Mouïlah_, a tributary of the Tafna, near the _Hammam Sidi-Cheikh_, a small bath with saline springs (91° Fahr.), and then winds up, past the _Kubba Sidi-Abdallah_ (on the left), towards the _Traras Mts._, which are famed for the beauty of their outlines. In the _Jebel Masser_, near the top of the pass, the _Col de Bab-Taza_ (2664 ft.), is a cadmium mine, worked like the neighbouring mines of _Jebel Maaziz_ by a Belgian company.—We now descend to the N.E. in many windings, passing not far from the onyx-quarries near the _Kubba Sidi-Brahim_, into the valley of the _Oued Zebaïr_. 53½ M. (from Tlemcen) =Nédroma= (1312 ft.; inn; pop. 4900), superbly situated in a fertile basin, is an antiquated little Berber town, with fine mediæval mosques. The *Market (Mon. and Thurs.) is worth seeing for the sake of the picturesque costumes of the peasants who flock to it from the mountains around. Home-industries are much in vogue in the environs. The _Jebel Fillaoussen_ (3727 ft.), the highest of the Traras group, to the E. of Nédroma, commands an extensive view, embracing in very clear weather the Sierra Nevada in the far N. The road soon leaves the Oued Zebaïr and turns to the N.W. to the lower course of the brook, which takes the name of _Oued Tléta_ farther on, and from the influx of the _Oued Taïma_ to the sea that of _Oued el-Mersa_. In the upper valley of the Taïma, on the slope of _Jebel Kerkour_ (1884 ft.), are the _Kubba Sidi-Brahim_, where a small French force under Col. de Montagnac was almost entirely cut to pieces in 1845, and the _Kubba Sidi-Tahar_, where Abd el-Kâder (p. 221) surrendered in 1847. The former event is recalled by a monument in the _Vallée des Jardins_, ¾M. to the S. of Nemours. 64 M. (from Tlemcen) =Nemours= (Hôt. de France; pop. 3900), a pleasant little town, noted for its mild and healthy climate, was founded in 1844 on the site of the Roman _Ad Fratres_, a name derived from two rocks near the beach. The banana culture thrives in the environs. On the _Plateau de Taount_ (407 ft.), to the N.E. of the town, are the ruins of _Djemâa el-Ghazaouât_ (‘marauders’ community’), once a Berber village, but afterwards a notorious den of pirates (p. 221).—Nemours is a steamboat station (comp. R. 18). 32. From Oran to Beni-Ounif de Figuig (_Colomb-Béchar_) viâ Damesme and Perrégaux. 396 M. STATE RAILWAY. Direct communication with dining-car (déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.) and sleeping-car (12 fr. extra) three times a week only (Tues., Thurs., and Sat.; returning Sun., Wed., and Frid.); express viâ (129½ M.) _Saïda_ to (305½ M.) _Aïn-Sefra_ in 16 hrs.; thence by ordinary train to _Beni-Ounif_ in 5¼ hrs.; trains start from the Gare d’Arzew at Oran (p. 175). As far as (55½ M.) _Perrégaux_ we may travel by the Oran and Algiers train on the main-line (R. 33), noting that the stations there are 550 yds. apart (omn. 25 c.). Fares to Aïn-Sefra 39 fr. 35, 29 fr. 50 c. (sleeping-car, 1st cl. only, 12 fr. extra; 2nd cl. similar to Engl. 3rd); to Beni-Ounif 50 fr. 95, 38 fr. 20 c. (return-ticket, valid 16 days, 71 fr. 30 or 53 fr. 50 c.).—A good supply of copper coins will be found very useful. The journey from Oran to the Sahara is most interesting, as it carries the traveller from the seaboard through a cultivated region, across the Tell Atlas to the Hauts-Plateaux, and then over the Sahara Atlas to the margin of the desert. The only good intermediate resting-place is _Aïn-Sefra_. A stay of several days at _Beni-Ounif_ will be found pleasant, especially in spring. The oasis of Tiout is now eclipsed by that of Figuig, one of the most beautiful in the Sahara. The line goes on from Beni-Ounif to _Colomb-Béchar_, its present terminus. _Oran_, see p. 175. Our train crosses the Algiers main-line (R. 33), passes the suburb of _Victor-Hugo_ and the _Daya Morselli_ (p. 185), and runs to the E. through vineyards, fields, and dwarf-palm underwood in succession, and then past the S. base of _Jebel Kahar_ (p. 184) to (12½ M.) _Fleurus_. 17½ M. _St. Cloud_ (502 ft.; hotel) lies pleasantly on the spurs of _Jebel Kristel_, 6¼ M. to the S.E. of Kristel (p. 184). 21 M. _Renan-Kléber_ (433 ft.). The village of _Kléber_ (505 ft.; Hôt. Voinson) lies 2 M. to the N.W., at the foot of _Jebel Orouze_ (2070 ft.; semaphore), with its large quarries of white, yellow, and red marble (‘rosso antico’). 26 M. _Damesme_, on the _Bay of Arzew_, the ancient _Laturus Sinus_. The village lies above the station, to the S. A BRANCH LINE (3 M., in 12–15 min.) connects Damesme with =Arzew= or _Arzeu_ (7 ft.; Hôt. de la Nièvre; Hôt. des Bains; Brit. vice-consul, A. Gautray; pop. 6000), a small seaport at the foot of _Jebel Sicioun_ (532 ft.), whence a goods-line runs to the S. to the (9 M.) salt-works on the _Lac Salin d’Arzew_, or _El-Mellaha_. The harbour, naturally one of the best and most sheltered in Algeria, but as yet little used, has been improved since 1906. From here chiefly alfa (p. 171) is exported to Great Britain and Germany. From Damesme the train runs to the S.E., close to the shore. 28 M. _St. Leu_ (177 ft.; Hôt. de l’Europe). To the S.E. of the village of St. Leu, and 1 M. from the station, is the Berber village of _Bettioua_, near which are the scanty ruins of _Portus Magnus_, the only Roman settlement on the bay of Arzew. 34½ M. _Port-aux-Poules_ (Etablissement Thermal), with sulphur-baths, a sea-bathing place in summer. The train skirts the narrow strip of sand-hills and passes the mouth of the _Macta_. 37 M. =La Macta=, a village at the N. end of the _Marais de la Macta_, or swamps of the river-plain of the _Sig_ (p. 206) and the _Habra_, very malarious in summer, is connected by a branch-line with (7½ M.) _La Stidia_, a village founded by German peasants in 1844, and with (18½ M.) _Mostaganem_ (p. 207). The train now runs inland, past the E. margin of the morasses, to (48½ M.) _Debrousseville_, in the broad _Plaine de l’Habra_. The village belongs to the _Domaine de l’Habra et de la Macta_, the largest estate in Algeria, watered by a network of cuttings (276 M. in length) from the reservoir of the Oued Fergoug (see below). Since the failure of two private companies the estate has been owned by the Crédit Foncier de France. Of its 70,000 acres 44,000 are pasture-land, and the rest is devoted to grain and fruit. Its headquarters are at _La Ferme-Blanche_, near the railway. At (55½ M.) =Perrégaux= we cross the Oran-Algiers line (p. 206). Ascending the valley of the Habra, here called _Oued el-Hammam_ (‘bath-river’), we now penetrate the _Beni Chougrane Mts._, the N. marginal chain of the Tell Atlas. On the left, just before (61½ M.) _Barrage_, lies the *_Barrage de Perrégaux or de l’Oued Fergoug_, the largest reservoir in Algeria, which irrigates some 90,000 acres of land. The embankment, is 550 yds. long, 130 ft. high, and from 130 ft. thick at the bottom to 12½ ft. at the top. The reservoir once contained 33 million tons of water, but the quantity is constantly being diminished by the deposits of the stream. 67½ M. _Dublineau_ (443 ft.). 78 M. _Bou-Hanifia_ is the station for the small baths of _Hammam Bou-Hanifia_, on the right bank of the Habra, 2½ M. to the S.W. (Bath Hotel). The eight saline springs (136° Fahr.) are the _Aquae Sirenses_ of antiquity. 86 M. _Tizi_ or _Thizi_ (1490 ft.; Rail. Restaur.) in the _Plaine d’Eghris_, a lofty and fertile tract between the N. lateral chain and the main range of the Tell Atlas. BRANCH LINE (7½ M., in ca. ½ hr.) from Tizi to =Mascara= (1903 ft.; Hôt. Bourelly, Rue de Dalmatie, R. 2½, B. 1, déj. 2½ omn. ½ fr., quite good; Hôt. du Luxembourg, Rue Victor-Hugo; Café de la Brasserie, Place Gambetta; pop. 22,930), beautifully situated on a chain of hills on the N. margin of the Eghris plain. This was the capital of the beylic of Oran in 1701–92, and in 1832–41 was the residence and chief stronghold of Abd el-Kâder (p. 221). The chief quarter of the town, with the Place Gambetta as its centre, has a _Mosque_ (18th cent.) in the Place Nationale, and a _Beylic_ (now military offices), built by Mohammed el-Kebîr (p. 178), in the street of that name. This quarter is separated by the ravine of the _Oued Toudman_, now a public park, from the spacious Place de l’Argoub (market on Thurs. and Frid.) and from the barracks quarter. Outside the Porte d’Oran, the W. gate, we have a delightful view. Outside the _Bâb-Ali_, the N. gate, lies the Mohammedan quarter of that name (where burnouses are woven). Mascara is famed for its wine. At (93½ M.) _Thiersville_ (1601 ft.) the train crosses a range of hills to the stony tableland of _Guerdjoum_ (much overgrown with dwarf-palms). Beyond (102½ M.) _Oued-Taria_ (1618 ft.) it crosses the brook of that name, the chief feeder of the Habra, and at (110½ M.) _Charrier_ (1792 ft.), in the fertile valley of the _Oued Saïda_, reaches the main chain of the Tell Atlas. 122 M. _Les Eaux-Chaudes_, Arabic _Hammâm Ouled-Khaled_, with saline springs (113° Fahr.); 126½ M. _Nazereg_ (2625 ft.). 129½ M. =Saïda= (2746 ft.; Hôt. Lugan or Riu, in the market-place, 10 min. from the station, R. 2, D. 3, pens. 7, omn. ½ fr.; Hôt. Vergnon; Hôt. de la Paix; pop. 8100), the southmost town in the Tell Atlas of Oran, founded in 1854, lies in an uninteresting region. In front of the Mairie rises an imposing _Monument_ (1910) to the soldiers of the Foreign Legion who fell in S. Oran. From the Place du Marché Arabe (market on Mon.), where the _Mosque_ is situated, the Rue Thiers and the Rue Nationale lead to the S.W. to the high-lying barracks of the _Foreign Legion_ (p. 186). Above the market-place lies the _Native Quarter_. The train next passes (on the left) the scanty ruins of the last _Fortress_ built by Abd el-Kâder affording a view of Saïda as we look back, and ascends between barren hills to the tableland on the S. margin of the Tell Atlas. 136½ M. _Aïn-el-Hadjar_ (3360 ft.; ‘rock-spring’), a village of 1500 inhab. in a fertile well-watered district, with a military prison. On the bleak tableland, between the region of the _Hassasna_ on the N.E. and the _Maalif Plain_ on the S.W., we pass several small stations. 157 M. _Kralfallah_ (3638 ft.), with great stacks of esparto grass, was the scene of the massacre of the Spaniards at the hands of Bou-Amama (p. 222) in 1881. The train now descends to the _Hauts-Plateaux_ (p. 169), where an occasional caravan or a few grazing camels only are seen, while the vegetation is limited to saline plants and patches of esparto grass (p. 171). 166 M. _El-Beïda_ (3497 ft.), the first fortified station. 171 M. _Modzbah_ (3471 ft.), with its great stacks of esparto grass and the goods-station of a branch-line to (22 M.) _Marhoum_, used solely for the esparto traffic. 192 M. =Le Kreider= (3241 ft.; Hôt. de Paris, R. 2, déj. 1½, D. 2 fr.), on the N. bank of the _Chott ech-Chergui_ (p. 169). commanded by a small fort on the hill above it, was founded in 1881 as a military base of defence against the partisans of Bou-Amama. The barracks, in the neo-Moorish style, are surrounded with plantations which are watered by means of a wind-pump. We at length reach the salt-marshes, pass between low sand-hills, and are carried through the masses of mud by means of a short embankment to (201 M.) _Bou-Ktoub_ or _Bou-Guetoub_ (3264 ft.), the starting-point of a road to _Géryville_ (66 M.; diligence). We then mount gradually to the N. spurs of the _Sahara Atlas_ (p. 170). Stations uninteresting. 242 M. _Méchéria_ (3806 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs; pop. 700), at the foot of the _Jebel Antar_ range, contains barracks for convicts of the foreign legion and a small mosque.—The train again traverses the Hauts-Plateaux. To the left rises the distant _Jebel el-Malha_. Near (262½ M.) _Naâma_ (3825 ft.) is the salt-lake of that name, not visible from the train. 384 M. _Mékalis_ (4311 ft.), the highest point on the line, with a few fruit-trees. The train now crosses the watershed between the Hauts-Plateaux and the Sahara, and descends into the _Faïdjet el-Betoum_, a broad valley so named after its terebinths (Pistacia Terebinthus L.; Arabic b’tom or betoum). The valley is flanked on the E. by _Jebel Aïssa_ (7336 ft.), and on the W. by _Jebel Morghad_ (7008 ft.), the two highest of the _Montagnes des Ksour_, as the Sahara Atlas is usually called here. Beyond (299 M.) _Tirkount_ appear in the foreground _Jebel Mekter_ (6762 ft.), with a Poste Optique or signal-station, used at the time of the conflicts with Bou-Amama, and the long chain of sand-hills near Aïn-Sefra. 305½ M. =Aïn-Sefra= (3577 ft.; Hôt. de France or Plasse, R. 3, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.; 5 Hôt. des Voyageurs, both in the chief square, very plain; Café Bienvenu), not founded until 1881, with a strong garrison and about 1400 inhab., is grandly situated in a broad valley between Jebel Aïssa and Jebel Mekter. The village, lying on the left bank of the _Oued Aïn-Sefra_ (‘yellow spring’), was devastated by an inundation in 1904. A market (Mon.) is held here for the Berbers of the environs, who still speak Tamâzirt (p. 94). An iron bridge crosses to the _Barracks_, a neo-Moorish building. Through the _Berber Village_ (ksar, p. 281) behind the barracks we may climb in ¾ hr. to the top of the reddish-brown *_Sand Hills_, formed by disintegration of the rock, which give the landscape its very peculiar character, and whose shifting sands threaten to overwhelm Aïn-Sefra in spite of the sheltering plantations. The famous oasis of =Tiout=, 10½ M. to the E. of Aïn-Sefra and 3 M. to the N. of the railway-station of _Tiout_ (p. 203), is a favourite goal of tourists. A horse or mule should be ordered in good time, cheapest at the ‘Subdivision’ (2 fr.; attendant 1½–2 fr.); the traveller may shorten the long ride by returning from Tiout by train. The track leads through the broad, shadeless valley, some way from the brook Aïn-Sefra; we have a fine retrospect of Aïn-Sefra and its sand-hills. We pass several red-sandstone rocks. About halfway the rail. station of Tiout and the oasis beyond it come in sight. In this little oasis (3445 ft.), one of the highest palm-oases in the Atlas, lies an interesting _Berber Village_ (pop. 400). The low-lying gardens, protected by high mud-walls, yield fruit and vegetables under the shade of the well-kept date-palms. Their irrigation is provided by a small _Reservoir_ to the N. of the village, a charming spot, where we may rest under the palms on the bank of the brook. A few minutes’ walk from this point, to the N.E. of the village, rises a reddish rock, on which, about 65 ft. above the valley, protected by a grating, are traced figures of animals and hunters (archers), a prehistoric curiosity, called the _Hadjra Mektouba_, with later Libyan-Berber and Arabic inscriptions. About 8 M. to the W. of Aïn-Sefra, on the road to _Aïn-Sfissifa_ (4176 ft.) and the Moroccan oasis of _Ich_ (3724 ft.), is the copper-mine of _Hasi-ben-Hedjir_. Beyond Aïn-Sefra the train (with the engine now at the other end) follows the valley of that name and rounds the Jebel Mekter group in a long curve to the E. Beyond (312½ M.) _Tiout_ (oasis, p. 202, visible on the left) it descends to the S., lastly through masses of débris and rock-cuttings, to (321 M.) _Aïn-el-Hadjadj_. We then pass through a defile between Jebel Mekter and _Jebel Djara_. To the left, framed by rocks, lies a low reddish-brown sand-hill. Farther on, to the left, between Jebel Djara and _Jebel BouLeghfad_ (5545 ft.), opens the broad mountain-valley of the _Rouïba_, which at (328 M.) _Rouïba_ joins the Aïn-Sefra to form the _Oued en-Namous_. The train turns to the S.W., at the S. base of Jebel Mekter, a little to the right of the palm-oasis of _Moghrar-Tahtâni_ (2710 ft.; ‘lower Moghrar’), famed for its prehistoric rock-drawings. 340 M. _Moghrar-Foukâni_ (‘upper Moghrar’), beyond which we pass its *Palm Oasis, overlooked by a kubba on a low hill. We next pass through the _Gorges de Moghrar_, a sandstone ravine full of rocky débris, into _El-Faïdja_, a valley at the S. base of the _Mir el-Jebel_ (6790 ft.) and _Jebel Mezi_ (6988 ft.). 359 M _Djenien-bou-Resg_ (3254 ft.) has a _Redoute_, or fortified camp (on the left), in the style of a Roman camp, a small palm-oasis, and a pretty military club in the Moorish style, shaded with palms. The train enters the valley of the _Oued Dermel_, one of the sources of the Oued Zousfana. In the distance we sight _Jebel Beni Smir_ and _Jebel el-Maïz_ (p. 204). An iron bridge carries the train across the Dermel, usually dry, to the ruins of (379 M.) _Duveyrier_, at the mouth of the _Oued Douis_, which has been deserted since an inundation in 1904. We then descend between low ranges of hills, _Jebel Tamednaïa_ (2953 ft.) on the left, on the margin of the desert, and _Djermân-Tahtâni_ and _Jebel el-Haïmer_ on the right, to the _Zousfana_ (beyond rises the old fort of _Campo_), where the palms of Beni-Ounif become visible. 396 M. =Beni-Ounif de Figuig= (2707 ft.; Hôt. du Sahara, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 12 fr., plain but good; advisable to secure rooms beforehand by telegraph; 1300 inhab.), founded in 1903, as being then the terminus of the railway, adjacent to a ksar, or Berber village (_ât ouinîfi_), and a _Camp Militaire_, is now a free mart, rapidly growing in importance. Its total trade with Morocco and the Tuat oases amounts to about 4 million francs. The few and quiet streets, planted with palms, present a marked contrast to those of Biskra, which is now overrun with tourists. The white domed building near the railway-station serves at once as a church, a town-hall, and a law-court. Behind it is a fondouk (p. 281). The only sights are the _Zaouïa Sidi Slîmân ben-Bou-Smaha_, the chief sanctuary of the Ouled Sidi-Cheikh, a Berber tribe of S. Oran, and the _Ksar_ (p. 281), a poor village inhabited by Harrâtin (p. 94), at the back of the barracks quarter, where the mode of irrigating a palm-oasis may be observed. Beni-Ounif, situated in a rocky wilderness, commanded on the N. and W. by jagged and fissured mountains, _Jebel Beni Smir_ (6857 ft.), _Jebel el-Maïz_ (6037 ft.), and _Jebel Grouz_ (5328 ft.), and separated from Figuig by a chain of low barren hills, possesses to the full the fascination of a Sahara landscape (p. 172). The most striking view, especially towards evening, of Beni-Ounif, the palm-oasis, and the village of Figuig, as well as of the spurs of the Sahara Atlas, is obtained from _Jebel Melias_ (3986 ft.), a spur of Jebel Grouz, 2 hrs. to the N. of the little town. For this ascent, and for all the longer excursions, travellers must procure an escort of Cavaliers du Maghzen (p. 390), who usually provide horses for the journey (horse for half-a-day 2½–3, whole day 5 fr.; fee to each ‘cavalier’ 2 fr.). Application for the escort has to be made at the Bureau Arabe (p. 174) in the Camp Militaire. *=Figuig=, to the N. of Beni-Ounif, first visited by a European, Gerh. Rohlfs, in 1862, is the largest and most fertile oasis in the Sahara Atlas of Oran (containing about 400,000 date-palms). According to the treaty of 1845 it belongs to Morocco, but only nominally since its bombardment by French troops in 1903. From the earliest times the oasis has been in high repute. It embraces seven villages (ksûr), in three groups, the _Feghiha castra tria_ of antiquity. In the early 16th cent. Leo Africanus extols the artistic skill of the inhabitants; their industries, however, are now limited to the weaving of burnouses and carpets (similar to the knot-worked carpets of Fez) and to the manufacture of small articles in leather. The place is inhabited by Berbers, besides a large number of Jews, the Harrâtin, and a few negro slaves. Tamâzirt (p. 94) is their chief language, but Arabic also is spoken at places. The S. margin of the oasis, and its boundary towards Beni-Ounif, is formed by a range of hills running from _Jebel Melias_ (see above), W. to E., to _Jebel el-Haïmer_ (p. 203), and crossed by four passes, the _Col des Moudjâhdine_, the _Col de la Juive_ (Arabic _Teniet el-Ihûdia_), the _Col de Zenâga_, and the _Col de Taghla_ or _Tarla_. The shortest route is viâ the Col de Zenâga, commonly called _El-Kheneg_ (‘the pass’). By this route the whole excursion, there and back, takes 5–6 hrs.; but, time permitting, it is preferable to go by the Col de Taghla, watered by the Zousfana, and bounded on the E. by the sombre rocks of _Jebel Sidi-Youssef_ (3484 ft.), and to return by the Col de Zenâga or the Col de la Juive, a full day’s expedition. The ascent of one of the hills adjoining these passes (stout boots advisable) in the company of an escort is to be recommended on account of the fine view. The route over a stony plain to the (½ hr.) _Zenâga Pass_ crosses the _Oued Melias_, the bed of which is generally dry, near the frontier of Morocco, indicated by heaps of stones. The vegetation here is limited to a few thorn-bushes—jujubes (Zizyphus vulgaris; Arabic sedra; French jujubier) and the prickly Anabasis arietoïdes (Arabic ajerem), the ‘chou-fleur du Sahara’ of the soldiers, which is much used in this part of the Sahara as fuel. At the entrance to the pass, about 200 yds. in breadth, we may observe to the left, on the stony slope of _Jebel Zenâga_ (3435 ft.), several graffiti, or rudely engraved sketches on the rock (comp. p. 202), but not very distinguishable under the black patina. Beyond the first palms of the oasis, at the exit of the pass, rise the _Kubba Sidi-Fedel_, surrounded with numerous votive stones (kerkours, rĕ-yems), and the _Haouïta Sidi-Tifour_, an open walled rectangle. We have here a good survey of the lower part of the oasis, with the village of Zenâga (p. 206) and numerous bordjs (round watch-towers), backed by the Jebel Grouz range, while on the edge of the plateau of the six upper villages gleams the conspicuous _Kubba Sidi ben-Aïssa l’Aredj_. Our route now leads to the N.E. across the barren, dazzling white _Plaine de Bagdbâd_ (2818 ft.). We may first visit _El-Hammâmin_, the two E. villages, _Hammâm-Tahtâni_, on the slope of the high plateau, and _Hammâm-Foukâni_ (2950 ft.), where Bou-Amama was encamped in 1900–2 (p. 222); but it is more usual to go direct to the four W. villages, at first through small fields of barley and vegetable-gardens, and then between the high mud-walls of the palm-gardens. We ascend through a picturesque defile on the rocky and fissured slope of the upper plateau, whence the water flows down in open cuttings (see p. 94) to the village of _El-Maïz_. We note here the quaint architecture and the lanes arched over with palm-wood beams, under which the natives take their siesta on stone benches in the hot season. Some of the little houses of the Mellah, or Jewish quarter, are owned by Morocco leather-workers. Through the contiguous village of _Ouled-Slîmân_ we pass to EL-OÛDÂGHÎR (Berber _ât a’addi_), the largest village in Figuig next to Zenâga. Since 1902 this has been the seat of a Moroccan Amel, or governor, who with his few soldiers occupies the dilapidated _Dâr el-Beïda_ (‘white house’) on the barren _H’sen_, as the upper plateau is called (2940–3000 ft.). The mud-built houses of the village, mostly consisting of two or more stories, are overlooked by the new square minaret of the _Chief Mosque_, where the governor attends the Friday prayers. A second mosque has a very old and graceful octagonal minaret. The _Prison_ (visitors admitted), the tents of the Amouriât, the girls of the nomad tribe of the Amour, whose habits resemble those of the Ouled Naïl (p. 215), and the Mellah, where the escort prepare tea in their own peculiar manner, also may be visited with interest. To the W. of El-Oûdâghîr is the basin of the _Aïn-Tzadert_, a spring which supplies Zenâga also and has often given rise to bitter quarrels between the two villages. From the massive _Bordj_ belonging to the villagers of El-Oûdâghîr, adjoining the basin, we obtain a splendid *Panorama of the oasis and the girdle of mountains around it. At our feet lies _El-Abîd_ (_ât enneï_), with its many towers, the westmost village, now dilapidated and partly deserted. On our way back, passing the underground _Aïn-Meslout_, with two vaulted baths (hammâm), we come suddenly to the precipitous brink of the plateau (here about 100 ft. high), where we enjoy a beautiful view of the forest of palms around Zenâga. The village of ZENÂGA (Berber _iznâïn_), 1¼ M. to the S. of El-Oûdâghîr, and 4¼ M. to the N. of Beni-Ounif, with its one-storied mud-built houses, its massive towers, its mellah, and many vaulted lanes, has for its centre the chief mosque and the square in front of it. A smaller mosque lies outside the village. The large basin is fed by underground conduits (p. 94) from the Aïn-Tzadert. 33. From Oran to Algiers. 262½ M. RAILWAY. Day-train, with 1st and 2nd cl. saloon carriages and ‘wagon-restaurant’ (déj. 4, D. 4½ fr.), in 11½ hrs. (fares 35 fr. 5, 26 fr. 5 c., 19 fr.); night-express in 9¾ hrs. (‘lit-salon’ 12 fr. more than 1st cl. fare; sleeping-carriage 12 fr. extra). Scenery as far as Affreville uninteresting. The best places for breaking the journey are _Miliana_, _Hammam Rhira_, and _Blida_. At _Perrégaux_ this line is crossed by the line from Oran to Damesme and Beni-Ounif de Figuig (R. 32). From Oran to (16 M.) _Ste. Barbe-du-Tlélat_, see pp. 185, 186. Our train now crosses the _Tlélat_ (p. 186) and the flat saddle between the Tell Atlas and (left) the chain of _Jebel Djira_ (1083 ft.). On the S. slope of these hills lies the _Forêt de Mouley-Ismael_, an expanse of 11,000 acres of underwood, where Sultan Mulaï Ismail of Morocco (p. 96) was signally defeated by the Bey of Mascara (p. 200) in 1707. 32 M. _St. Denis-du-Sig_ (177 ft.; Hôt. du Louvre; pop. 11,900) lies in the fruitful plain of the _Sig_ (called Mekerra in its upper course, p. 186). The environs are watered by the great Barrage du Sig. Cattle-market on Sundays (‘marché arabe’).—38 M. _Bou-Henni_ (_Habra_; 66 ft.), at the foot of the _Beni Chougrane Mts._ (p. 200), not far from the marshes of the Macta (p. 200). Melons are much cultivated here.—The train crosses the _Habra_ (p. 200). 47½ M. =Perrégaux= (148 ft.; Hôt. des Colonies, Rue de Mostaganem, R. 2½, B. ½ fr., quite good; Hôt. des Voyageurs, near the station for Beni-Ounif; pop. 10,100, largely Spanish), is a pleasant town with a pretty _Jardin Public_ and a detachment of the Foreign Legion (p. 186). Wednesday market. Railway to _Oran_ viâ _Damesme_ (_Arzew_), and to _Beni-Ounif_, see R. 32. To the left stretches the _Plaine de l’Habra_ (p. 200); in the distance rise the hills near La Stidia (p. 200) and Mostaganem (see below). Beyond (55½ M.) _Nouvion-Oued-Malah_ (420 ft.) the train crosses the hill-region between the main chain of the Tell Atlas and _Jebel Bel-Hacel_ (see below), and at (65½ M.) _L’Hillil_ (410 ft.) enters the _Plaine de la Mina_, adjoining the plain of the Chélif (p. 208), one of the hottest regions of Algeria in summer. A ROAD (12½ M.; omn. in winter at 1.30, in summer at 8.30) leads to the S. from L’Hillil to the interesting and purely Mohammedan hill-town of =Kalàa= (pop. 4800; Sat. market), once famous for its carpet industry. We cross the _Mina_, 2½ M. below the _Barrage de la Mina_, which waters some 25,000 acres of land. 77½ M. =Relizane= (289 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hôt. de la Paix; Hôt. de Paris, R. 2, B. ½, déj. 2, D. 2½, pens. 7 fr.; pop. 9000, half Mohammedan) is a small town amidst rich orchards. Our line is crossed here by the Mostaganem and Tiaret line. FROM RELIZANE TO MOSTAGANEM, 47½ M., railway in 2¾–3 hrs. (fare 6 fr. 10 or 4 fr. 55 c.). The train crosses the Mina before (7½ M.) _Bel-Hacel_, and then in a long bend to the N.E. skirts _Jebel Bel-Hacel_ (1694 ft.). It next turns sharply to the S.W. to (18 M.) _Mekalia_, crosses the hills of the _Forêt de Laktoube_ (1552 ft.), affording fine views of the Chélif valley and of the Dahra range (p. 208), and then descends to (27½ M.) _Oued-el-Kheir_. From (34½ M.) _Aïn-Tédelès_ (657 ft.; Hôt. Bellocq; pop. 2900, chiefly Mohammedan), surrounded with olive-groves and orchards, a road leads to (4½ M.) _Pont du Chélif_ (66 ft.) which, situated near the ancient Roman town of _Quiza_, is named from the bridge built by Spanish prisoners from Mazagran (see below) and rebuilt in 1850. Beyond (45 M.) _Pélissier_ we pass through the charming _Vallée des Jardins_. 47½ M. =Mostaganem= (341 ft.; Grand-Hôtel, near the Place de la République; Hôt. du Louvre; Hôt. de la Gare; pop. 22,000, incl. 10,900 Mohammedans and 1100 Jews), a seaport on the E. shore of the _Bay of Arzew_ (p. 199), situated on an old coast-terrace rising abruptly from the sea (perhaps the site of the Roman _Murustuga_), owes its foundation, under the name of _Bordj el-Mehal_, to the Almoravide Yûsuf ibn Têshufîn (p. 95). It is the oldest garrison of the _Tirailleurs Indigènes_, a native regiment formed in 1847, and well known as _Turcos_ in the Franco-German war (1870–1). The main quarter of the town, with the station, the fine _Jardin Public_, the Place de la République, a fine point of view, the _Market_, and the _Chief Mosque_, founded by the Merinide Abû’l-Hasen Ali (p. 188) in 1342, lies on the left bank of the _Aïn-Sefra_, fully ½ M. above the harbour quarter. On the lofty right bank of the ravine are a second European quarter and (outside the Porte des Medjes) the interesting Mohammedan suburb of _Tidjit_. The _Harbour_, now choked with sand and inadequately protected from N. and N.W. winds by two piers, lies between two small tongues of land, _La Salamandre_ on the S.W., and _Karouba_ (266 ft.), with its sacred grove, on the N.E.—The railway from Mostaganem to La Stidia and La Macta (p. 200) passes (2 M.) _Mazagran_ (459 ft.; Hôt. Pujol), old-Berber _Tamazaran_, where the Spaniards sustained a severe defeat in 1558, and where a small French force in 1840 repelled the attacks of 15,000 adherents of Abd el-Kâder (p. 221; monument). FROM RELIZANE TO TIARET, 75 M., railway in 4¾ hrs. (fare 9 fr. 65 or 7 fr. 25 c.). Scenery unattractive. Beyond (5½ M.) _Oued-Khelloug_ the train follows the course of the _Mina_ (p. 207), which separates the _Beni Chougrane_ (p. 200) from the _Ouarsenis Mts._ (p. 209). 12 M. _Sidi-Mohammed-Benaouda_ (417 ft.), noted for the strange cult of the local saint of that name, in whose zaouïa sacred lions were once kept; the loftily situated kubba, a great resort of pilgrims, is guarded by negroes who are said to be descendants of a servant of the saint (popular festivals in Aug. and Oct.).—27 M. _Uzès-le-Duc_ or _Fortassa_ (840 ft.).—54 M. _Méchéra-Sfa-Prévost-Paradol_. Near Méchéra-Sfa, on the Mina, are two cemeteries, with several dolmens, of the 4th cent., the sole relics of an ancient Berber town.—69 M. _Takdempt_, with a ruined arsenal of Abd el-Kâder. 75 M. =Tiaret= (3577 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient or Lecat; Hôt. des Colonies, R. 1½–3, déj. or D. 1½–3, pens. 4–6 fr.; pop. 7200; Mon. market) lies on a mountain-pass not far from the fertile _Plateaux du Sersou_, on the S. margin of the Tell Atlas, a cold but healthy site, once occupied by _Tingartia_, the capital of W. Algeria in the Byzantine period. New Tiaret, the capital of the Kharijite sect of the Ibadites (p. 323), probably lay below the present town, in the direction of Takdempt.—About halfway on the road from Tiaret to (35 M.) _Frenda_, among the hills to the S. of Tiaret, are the *_Djedar_, step-pyramids in the style of the ‘Tombeau de la Chrétienne’ (p. 238), but on square foundations, tombs apparently of forgotten Christian Berber princes of the 6–7th cent., composed partly of materials from 5th cent. buildings. Three of these, all in a very ruinous condition, are on _Jebel Hadjar_; ten, including the largest (52 by 49 yds.), lie on the _Colline de Ternaten_, 3¾ M. farther to the S. The ALGIERS RAILWAY, running to the N.E., at some distance from the _Sebkha de Relizane_ or _de Sidi Bou Chiane_, enters the desolate lower plain of the _Chélif_ (p. 215), the ancient _Chylimath_ (Arabic _Kelmitu_). 98 M. _St. Aimé_ or _Djidiouïa_ (243 ft.), with a petroleum-refinery for the oil-springs of _Aïn-Zeft_ (_Taghia_), lies on the _Dahra_, the coast-hills to the N. of the Chélif. The train crosses the _Oued Djidiouïa_. 104 M. _Inkermann_ or _Oued-Riou_ (263 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs; Hôt. d’Inkermann; pop. 5200, of whom 4200 are Mohammedans), with large quarries and a Wednesday market. The little Berber town of =Mazouna=, 18 M. to the N. of Inkermann, on a branch of the road to _Renault_, superbly situated, the capital of the W. Algerian beylic before Mascara (p. 200), is one of the quaintest places in the Algerian Tell Atlas. Home industries (burnouses, haiks, etc.) are much in vogue. Interesting Thursday market. The train crosses the _Oued Riou_. 110½ M. _Le Merdja_, the last station in the province of Oran. 117½ M. _Charon_ or _Bou-Kader_, a little town of 5200 inhab., almost all Mohammedans, lies in the province of Algiers (Thurs. market). On a low hill, 2 M. to the N., are Roman ruins, called _El-Aouna_ by the natives. At _Touchaïd_, 3 M. to the S.W., is a cavern in the rock, 330 ft. long, consisting of a number of low passages, and containing huge layers of bats’ guano. The _Trou du Diable_, 4 M. to the S. of Charon, is another object of interest. We cross the _Oued Sly_, with its barrage, to (122 M.) _Malakoff_ or _Oued-Sly_, and then pass through a wood of Aleppo pines and carob-trees. 131½ M. =Orléansville= (410 ft.; Hôt. du Palais, pens. 5 fr.; Hôt. des Voyageurs; pop. 4900, of whom 2300 are Mohammedans), founded in 1843 on the site of the Roman _Castellum Tingitanum_, is a smiling oasis, irrigated by a conduit from the Chélif, but one of the hottest places in Algeria (maximum 125½° Fahr.). The chief sight is the early-Christian _Basilica_ in the Place de la Mosaique, discovered in 1843, and recently further excavated. It was built in 324, and is the oldest Christian church in Algeria. The foundation walls are alone preserved. It consisted of a nave and double aisles, without a transept, with two entrances from the outer aisles and a rounded W. apse, to which was added in 475 a second choir-recess at the E. end, containing the tomb of Bishop Reparatus. Considerable fragments of the mosaic pavement also have been preserved. The town has also a _Mosque_ (1894) and a _Carpet Making School_. The Saturday market is important. From the N. ramparts we have a fine view of the Chélif ravine and the Dahra Mts. A ROAD (railway in course of construction) leads from Orléansville to _Ténès_ (33 M.; diligence in 6 hrs., at 2, from Ténès at 6 p.m.). It crosses the Chélif and beyond the suburb of _La Ferme_, hidden among trees, leads through a eucalyptus avenue, and then to the N.W. across a plain to (8½ M.) _Warnier_ (394 ft.), at the mouth of the _Oued Ouahran Valley_. Then to the N., through the _Dahra Mts._, inhabited almost solely by Berbers, to (17 M.) _Les Trois-Palmiers_ (525 ft.), with its gypsum quarries, and across the (19½ M.) _Col de Kirba_ (1476 ft.) to the valley of the _Oued Allala_ and (30 M.) _Montenotte_, with its orchards and iron-mines. 32½ M. _Vieux-Ténès_, picturesquely situated above the gorge of the Allala, said to have been founded by S. Spanish Moors in 875, was notorious as a den of pirates in the Turkish period. 33 M. =Ténès= (164 ft.; Hôt. des Arts; Hôt. de l’Univers, etc.; pop. 5000, Berbers 3300), founded in 1843, is perched like Mostaganem on the edge of a plateau rising above its little frequented harbour, which is fairly sheltered on the E. only by the huge rocky _Cape Ténès_ (2093 ft.; lighthouse visible for 40 M.). Of _Cartenna_, the earliest settlement here, originally founded by Phœnicians, a few Roman cisterns only have been preserved. At the W. end of Ténès there are also some rock-tombs belonging to an early-Christian cemetery. A second ROAD (36 M.; ‘courrier’ on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 6 a.m., in 8 hrs.) leads from Orléansville to the S.E., through the _Ouarsenis Mts._, viâ (33 M.) _Boucaïd_, with the zinc and galena mines of the Belgian Vieille-Montagne Co., to (36 M.) _Beni-Hindel_ (3825 ft.) at the S. base of the triple-peaked _Ouarsenis_ (6512 ft.). To _Teniet el-Haâd_, see p. 211, 210. Leaving Orléansville, the train runs to the N.E., near the Chélif, to (135 M.) _Pontéba_. Fine view, to the left, of the hill-region on the E. margin of the lower plain of the Chélif. 140 M. _Le Barrage_, near the largest reservoir of the Chélif. The train sweeps round to the S., away from the river, and traverses a fertile and well shaded plain to (146 M.) _Oued-Fodda_ (522 ft.), a small town of 5300 inhab., near the left bank of the _Oued Fodda_, through whose valley peeps the three-peaked Ouarsenis (see above). In the _Plaine des Attafs_, as the very monotonous central plain of the Chélif is called, we next come to (148 M.) _Temoulga-Vauban_, at the foot of the bare _Jebel Temoulga_ (1749 ft.; with iron-mines), to (162 M.) _Oued-Rouïna_, and (166 M.) _Kherba_, the station for a village 3 M. to the N., on the margin of the Dahra Mts.—To the right, in the foreground, rises the range of _Jebel Doui_ (3409 ft.), whose spurs bound the central Chélif plain. To the left, for a short time, we have a *View of _Jebel Bou Maad_ (4643 ft.), generally snow-clad in winter, and of _Jebel Zaccar Gharbi_ (p. 212). 171 M. _Duperré_ (820 ft.), at the foot of Jebel Doui, near the ancient Roman _Oppidum Novum_. The train crosses the Chélif above the influx of the _Oued Ebda_. To the left, in the river-bed, is the pier of a bridge on the old Roman military road. We now pass through a defile between barren hills; to the right we have a glimpse of the broad upper plain of the Chélif. 178½ M. _Littré_ or _Les Arib_ (853 ft.), in the _Plaine des Aribs_, at the foot of the Dahra. 184 M. _Lavarande_ (945 ft.), on the spurs of the Zaccar range. 186½ M. =Affreville= (1020 ft.; Rail. Restaurant, with rooms, good; Hôt. de l’Univers, in the village, next to the diligence-office, R. 2, B. ½, D. 2 fr.; Hôt. du Haut-Chélif; Hôt. de Vaucluse, near the station, well spoken of; pop. 2000), at the foot of Jebel Zaccar Gharbi, is one of the stations (Miliana-Margueritte being the other, see p. 211) for Miliana (6¼ M.; diligence 3 times daily, 1 fr.; carr. 10–12 fr.), and the starting-point for Teniet el-Haâd. The EXCURSION TO THE CEDAR FOREST OF TENIET EL-HAÂD takes a day-and-a-half (motor-omnibus, 5 or 6 fr., in ca. 3 hrs.; diligence, leaving at 11 a.m., returning at 9.40 a.m., in 8 hrs.; carriage 50 fr. or more, hardly recommended). To the E. of Affreville, beyond the market (Thurs.) and the _Oued Souffay_, our rather featureless road diverges to the S. from the Dolfusville road; it leads among eucalyptus trees to the (2¾ M.) Chélif, and then, beyond (7½ M.) _Le Puits_ (971 ft.), ascends by the _Oued Massin_ through an almost uninhabited part of the Tell Atlas, between hills thinly clad with pines. 10½ M. _Pont-du-Caïd_ (1329 ft.); 16½ M. _Caravansérail de l’Oued-Massin_; 22 M. _Marbot_ (2287 ft.). Beyond the 39th kilomètre-stone (24½ M.) we observe on the right the curiously shaped sandstone rock of _Jebel Hadjra Touïla_. We then cross a pass (2920 ft.), whence We have a pleasing view of the valley of the Massin behind us, to (27½ M.) _Dutertre_ on the _Oued Rouïna_. 36 M. =Teniet el-Haâd= (3806 ft.; Hôt. du Commerce, R. 2, déj. 2, D. 2½ fr., tolerable; Hôt. de la Colonie, humble; pop. 2100), the starting-point of caravan-routes to Tiaret (p. 208) and to Chellala and Laghouat (p. 215), situated on one of the most important passes of the Tell Atlas, owes its name (‘Sunday Pass’) to its Sunday market, attended chiefly by the inhabitants of the Plateaux du Sersou (p. 208). On the E. side of the little town lies the poor ‘Village-Nègre’ (comp. p. 181). The *_Cedar Forest of Teniet el-Haâd_, on the slopes of _Jebel el-Meddad_ (5863 ft.; ‘cedar-mountain’), to the W. of the town, is still the finest in Algeria, although largely cut down of late and bereft of its primæval character. The Atlas cedar (Cedrus Atlantica Manetti), with its silvery and very short needles, and of gnarled and often fan-like growth, is smaller and less showy than the Himalaya cedar (Cedrus Deodora Roxburg) and the cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus Libani), but in a few cases attains a circumference of 30 ft. The cedars are mingled, particularly in the lower parts of the forest, with evergreen or holm oaks and cork-trees (Quercus ilex, cenis, and suber). The excursion to the forest, as far as the Rond-Point and back, takes 4½–5 hrs., or including Kef Siga 6–7 hrs. (Mule, obtained from the natives, or horse, from the Bureau des Messageries, 5 fr.; carr. from the latter, 20–25 fr., hardly advisable as the road is bad.) The road to the (8¾ M.) Rond-Point leaves the highroad to the S. of the town, but riders and walkers take a short-cut from the W. side of the town, thus saving about 1¼ M. In about 40 min. we come to the _Parapluie_, on the right side of the carriage-road, an umbrella-shaped cedar on a rocky height on the N. slope of the _Kef Sachi_ (5134 ft.), and in 25 min. more to the forester’s hut (gourbi forestier) of _Pré-Maigrat_. The finest parts of the forest are near the forester’s house at the _Rond-Point des Cèdres_ (4889 ft.; rfmts. if required), on the N. margin of the Jebel el-Meddad, where the _Sultane_, one of the grandest of the cedars is pointed out. From the Rond-Point a steep zigzag path ascends to a saddle with a pasture in a clearing (on the right), where we dismount, and whence we climb over the rocks to the top of the _Kef Siga_ (5624 ft.), the N.W. peak of the ‘cedar-mountain’. The *View embraces the whole of the Ouarsenis group (p. 209); to the E. rise the mountains of Boghar; to the N. the Zaccar range with Miliana. To the S. we survey the Hauts-Plateaux, with the bare hills of Chellala, as far as the distant Jebel Amour (p. 170) in the Sahara Atlas. From the Rond-Point we may ride on to the W. to (5–6 hrs.) _Beni-Hindel_ (p. 209). The train crosses the _Oued Boutan_. It then runs to the N.E., soon with a retrospect of the Ouarsenis Mts., and ascends the luxuriantly fertile valley of the _Oued Souffay_, between the Zaccar range and _Jebel Gontas_ (2858 ft.), to (193½ M.) _Miliana-Margueritte_ or _Adélia_ (about 1700 ft.), the station for _Miliana_, 5½ M. to the W. (reached by steam-tramway, in connection with the trains, in ¾ hr.), and for _Margueritte_ (p. 212; diligence). * * * * * =Miliana.=—HOTELS. *_Hôtel du Commerce & d’Isly_, Rue de Constantine, near Place Carnot; _Hôt. Valentin_, Place Carnot, next the diligence-office, with dépendance (_Hôt. d’Europe_) in Rue Fontenoy, R. 2 fr., B. 40 c., déj. or D. 2, pens. 6 fr., unpretending, attentive landlord.—DILIGENCE to Affreville (in the morning in connection with the motor-omnibus to Teniet el-Haâd), see p. 210. _Miliana_ (2428 ft.; pop. 8400, incl. 5300 Mohammedans), which is said to have been founded by Bologgîn ez-Ziri (comp. p. 221) on the site of the Roman _Zucchabar_, lies most romantically on a terrace on the S. slope of Jebel Zaccar Gharbi, amidst luxuriant gardens, and is particularly charming in April when the fruit-trees are in blossom. The chief gate, the N. gate of the modern town-walls, is the _Porte du Zaccar_, near the tramway-terminus, a few paces from the small public _Jardin Magenta_. Passing the covered _Marché Arabe_ the Rue St. Paul, a beautiful avenue of planes, leads in 3 min. to the Place Carnot, in the centre of which rises an ivy-clad _Minaret_ (now a clock-tower), a relic of the chief mosque, which was destroyed during the war with Abd el-Kâder (p. 221). Near the S.W. angle of the Place Carnot passes the Rue St. Jean, also planted with plane-trees, leading to the S. to the _Esplanade de la Casbah_ (nicknamed _Pointe aux Blagueurs_), which affords a delightful view of the Chélif plain and the Ouarsenis Mts. The orchards around and the cascades of the Oued Boutan (see above) are better seen from the rampart promenade on the E. side of the town. The *_Jebel Zaccar Gharbi_ (5181 ft.; ‘Western Zaccar’) is ascended by a good mule-path in 2½–3 hrs. (mule 4–5 fr.). The view of the wooded Dahra Mts., of the Chenoua (p. 242), of part of the Mitidja, and of the S. Tell Atlas, is one of the finest in Algeria. A delightful *Excursion, by carriage or on foot, especially in spring, may be taken to (6¼ M.) _Margueritte_, the road to it being part of that from Affreville to Blida and Algiers (comp. p. 214). The road branches to the left, a few minutes to the N.E. of the Porte du Zaccar, from the Adélia road, and soon passes close below the iron and copper mines of the _Société des Mines du Zaccar_, which are connected by a line of rails with the road tramway. Farther on, ascending gradually through orchards, a perfect sea of blossom in spring, we reach the gorge of the _Oued Righas_ or _Rirhas_, between Jebel Zaccar Gharbi and _Jebel Zaccar Chergui_ (5027 ft.; ‘Eastern Zaccar’), which also is famed for its view. =Margueritte= (2395 ft.; Hôt. du Zaccar, poor) lies picturesquely on the S.E. slope of the hill, 3 M. above the rail. station of Miliana-Margueritte (p. 211), with a fine view of the valley of the Oued Souffay, and yields one of the best red wines in Algeria.—Farther on the road skirts the E. slope of the Zaccar Chergui, rounds the gorge of the _Oued Tizi-Ouchir_, and then descends in windings across the _Col des Oliviers_ (1834 ft.; beyond this a rough road to the left diverges to Hammam-Rhira, see below), aside from the village of _Vesoul-Benian_ (1653 ft.; 4½ M. to the N. of the rail. station, see below), to (9 M.) the _Pont de l’Oued el-Hammam_ (see below). * * * * * Just beyond Miliana-Margueritte the RAILWAY passes through a tunnel (2525 yds.) into the bleak valley of the _Oued Zeboudj_. 200½ M. _Vesoul-Benian_, station for the village (see above). 205 M. _Bou-Medfa_ (797 ft.), about 1 M. to the W. of the village of that name, is the station for the baths of _Hammam Rhira_. (Hotel-omnibus meeting every train, up in 1, down in ¾ hr.; trunk ½–1½ fr.) The road ascends to the W. from the station in the valley of the _Oued el-Hammam_, which at Bou-Medfa joins the Oued Zeboudj to form the _Oued Djer_ (p. 213). 2 M. _Pont de l’Oued el-Hammam_ (883 ft.), at the junction of our road with that leading from Affreville and Miliana to Bourkika (p. 243), Blida, and Algiers. We follow the latter into the side-valley of the _Oued Djir_, whence we ascend to the S.W. in windings to the (7 M.) village of _Hammam Rhira_ (1542 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, poor). 7½ M. =Hammam Rhira= (1706 ft.; *Grand-Hôt. des Bains, of the first class, with beautiful grounds shaded with palms, and baths including two hot swimming-baths, R. 4–8, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens. 10–18 fr., open 15th Dec.–15th May only; Hôt. Bellevue, dépendance of the former and below it, also with baths, plainer, pens. 7–9 fr., open May-Dec.), the _Aquae Calidae_ of antiquity, Arabic _Hammâm Sidi-Slîmân_ (Solomon’s Bath), is the most fashionable watering-place in Algeria. It lies on a barren terrace descending abruptly to the S.E. to the Oued el-Hammam, affording a fine view of Jebel Zaccar Chergui to the W., and of Jebel Gontas (p. 211), Jebel Louhe (4751 ft.), and Jebel Mouzaïa (p. 213) to the S. The hot springs (113–166° Fahr.), which are strongly impregnated with carbonate and hydrated sulphate of lime, are used as a cure for rheumatism, gout, etc., while the water of a cold chalybeate spring is drunk by anæmic and dyspeptic patients. The chief season for foreign visitors is from the middle of Feb. to the middle of April; in summer the military hospital, which contains three restored ancient piscinæ, and the Mohammedan and Jewish baths below the Hôt. Bellevue are much frequented by Algerians. The Allée des Ruines in the public grounds contains a few relics from the ancient Aquæ Calidæ. We may walk thence to the W., between vineyards which yield excellent red wine, in ¼ hr. to the _Forêt de Chaïba_, a pine-forest of 2000 acres, in which the ‘petit tour’ of 2½ or the ‘grand tour’ of 5 M. may be taken. The _Samsam_ (2800 ft.) commands a fine view of the Mitidja and the Sahel (p. 221). Pleasant drives (carr. 15–40 fr. per day; driver and horses to be fed by the hirer) viâ (12½ M.) _Margueritte_ to (18½ M.) _Miliana_ (comp. p. 212); viâ Bourkika and Marengo to (23 M.) _Tipaza_ or to _Cherchell_ (see pp. 243, 244). [Illustration: BLIDA] From Bou-Medfa the train descends to the N.E., skirting the _Oued Djer_, and through a defile, overgrown with underwood, at the foot of the _Nador des Soumata_ (2507 ft.), to (214 M.) _Oued-Djer_, and then to the E. into the broad plain of the _Mitidja_ (p. 221). To the left in the distance rises the Chenoua (p. 242), and on the Sahel range (p. 221) may be seen the ‘Tombeau de la Chrétienne’ (p. 238). 219½ M. _El-Affroun_, a village on the Affreville and Algiers road, is like Castiglione (p. 238) a starting-point for Tipaza and Cherchell (steam-tramway, see p. 243). To the right rise the hills of Blida, with the deep incision of the Chiffa ravine (p. 215). 222½ M. _Mouzaïaville_ (368 ft.; pop. 5000) lies near the spurs of the wooded _Jebel Mouzaïa_, inhabited by the Berber tribe of that name. 225½ M. _Chiffa_ (364 ft.), near the left bank of the _Chiffa_ (see p. 238), and nearly 4 M. from the entrance to the ravine (by the Rocher Blanc, p. 215).—We cross the stony bed of the Chiffa, opposite the influx of the _Oued el-Kébir_ (see below), and then ascend through fields, vineyards, and cactus-hedges to— 230 M. =Blida.=—The STATION (689 ft.) lies about ¾ M. below the town, to the N.W., 18–20 min. from the chief hotels. Omnibus to the Place d’Armes, with luggage, 10 (at night 20) c.; cab 50 c. HOTELS. _Hôt. d’Orient_ (Pl. a; C, 3), Rue d’Alger and Place d’Armes, R. 3–5, B. 1–12, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 12, omn. ½ fr. good; _Hôt. Géronde_ (Pl. b; B, 2), Rue Lamy, plainer; _Hôt. de la Mitidja_ (Pl. c; B, 2), Rue Flatters, corner of Rue Pélissier, R. 2, déj. or D. 2 fr., plain but good; _Hôt. de la Gare_, near the station, déj. 1½, D. 2 fr., humble.—_Café d’Orient_, in the hotel, and _Brasserie Lyonnaise_, both in the Place d’Armes. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. 5; C, 3), Place d’Armes. CABS (stand in the Rue de l’Hôpital, behind the Place d’Armes). In town ½, to Sid-el-Kébir 3–5, Chiffa Ravine 8–12 fr. (according to bargain). SIGHTS. Forenoon, _Jardin Bizot_, _Bois Sacré_, cemetery of _Sid-el-Kébir_, and _Stud Farm_ (‘la Remonte’); afternoon, trip to the _Chiffa Ravine_, either from Sidi-Madani or Camp-des-Chênes (p. 215). If desired Algiers may be reached by train the same evening. The attractive mountain tours (Les Glacières, etc.) are feasible in summer only. _Blida_ (886 ft.; pop. 18,400, incl. 10,700 Mohammedans), one of the pleasantest provincial towns in Algeria, with a strong garrison, is charmingly situated at the N. base of the Tell Atlas, on the right bank of the _Oued el-Kébir_. To this so-called ‘great river’, as well as to the considerable rainfall in winter, the town is indebted for the splendid timber in its public grounds and the luxuriant vegetation of its orchards, notably the orange-groves between the N. suburbs of _Joinville_ and _Montpensier_. The town is said to have been founded by Andalusian Moors in 1535; in 1825 it was destroyed by an earthquake; it has been rebuilt since 1838, but in 1867 was again much damaged by an earthquake. From the station we proceed viâ the Avenue de la Gare to the Bab el-Sebt (Pl. A, B, 2), 5 min. to the N.E. of the Bois Sacré (see below), and within the town-walls we follow the Rue Lamy, called also Boulevard Trumelet, to the— PLACE D’ARMES (Pl. C, 3), which, with the adjoining Rue d’Alger (Pl. C, 3, 2), is the centre of traffic. This pleasant square is planted with plane-trees and has a fountain in the centre shaded by a great date-palm (a band plays here in winter). Adjacent is the Place Lavigerie with the Catholic church of _St. Charles_ (Pl. C, 4). The streets to the N. of the Place d’Armes, with the two small _Mosques_ (Pl. 3 & 4; C, 3, 2), and the lanes near the Place du Marché-Indigène (Pl. C, D, 3; interesting Friday market) are inhabited mainly by Mohammedans and Jews. From the Place d’Alger, at the end of the Rue d’Alger, the Rue Zaouïa leads to the left to the large _Stud Farm_ (Dépôt de Remonte; Pl. C, 1), where fine horses of the Arab and Barb breeds may be seen. From the Place d’Armes the Rue and Porte Bizot lead to the S.W. to the *_Jardin Bizot_ (Pl. B, 4), containing fine araucarias, palms, and magnolias. On the N. side of the Avenue du Champ-de-Manœuvres, 5 min. to the W. of the Porte Bizot, lies the famous _Bois Sacré_ (Pl. A, 3, 4), where two picturesque tombs of saints are shaded by superb groups of Aleppo pines, araucarias, and olive-trees. The Avenue du Champ-de-Manœuvres joins, near the drill-ground, the highroad to Boukirka (and Affreville; comp. p. 212), from which, just before Chiffa (p. 213), 5 M. to the W. of Blida, the road to the _Chiffa Ravine_ and _Médéa_ (p. 215) diverges to the left. This route to the _Rocher Blanc_ (p. 215) is uninteresting and in summer extremely dusty (cabs, see p. 213). From Porte Bizot we may turn to the E. and walk round the town-walls through an avenue of carob-trees to the Bab el-Rabah (Pl. D, 4), the S.E. town-gate, which is reached also from the Place d’Armes by the busy Rue Tirman. To the S. of this gate the Avenue des Moulins, a broad avenue of planes, leads along a conduit with several mills into the pretty valley of the _Oued el-Kébir_. After 10 min. we diverge to the right by a shadeless road, passing pleasant orange-groves and crossing the stream twice, and then, just beyond (½ hr.) a mill, ascend a path to the left to the poor village of _Sid-el-Kébir_. Above the village are the _Zaouïa_ and the picturesque _Cemetery of Sid-el-Kébir_, with the tombs of Ahmed el-Kebîr (d. 1560), the founder of Blida, and his two sons, to which on great Mohammedan festivals pilgrims flock from far and near. A second footpath to the N. descends hence into the valley. The highest mountains of Blida, the _Jebel Mouzaïa_ (p. 213) and the *_Pic des Beni-Salah_ or _Jebel Sidi Abd el-Kâder_ (5345 ft.), are famed for their cedar-forests, where the natives, however, have made sad havoc, and for the grand panorama they command. The distant view embraces the Tell Atlas from the Ouarsenis (p. 209) to Jebel Dira (p. 250), the Dahra (p. 208), and the whole of the Mitidja with the Sahel and the Jurjura chain (p. 258). The ascent of the Jebel Sidi Abd el-Kâder viâ _Aïn-Talazit_ takes 4 hrs.—Hardly less repaying is the ascent of the _Kef Chrea_ (5085 ft.), to the S.E. of Blida, to which a bridle-path (mule 4–5 fr.) leads from the Avenue des Moulins (p. 214), viâ the village of _Les Glacières_ (3957 ft.; Hôt. d’Altitude, déj. 3 fr., good) in 4 hrs. FROM BLIDA TO BERROUAGHIA, 52 M., railway in 4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 70, 5 fr. 5 c.). The train diverges to the S.W. from the Oran and Algiers line, crosses the Oued el-Kébir and the _Chiffa_ (p. 213), and beyond the _Rocher Blanc_ (466 ft.; inn) enters the =Gorges de la Chiffa=, a grand defile, flanked with the slopes of the Pic des Beni-Salah and Jebel Mouzaïa, here over 3000 ft. high. At (7½ M.) _Sidi-Madani_ (597 ft.) begins the finest part of the ravine; the grandest scenery is around the _Hôt. du Ruisseau-des-Singes_ (738 ft.; déj. 1¾–3, D. 3 fr.), at the mouth of the side-valley of the _Oued Tamesguida_, and at the waterfalls beyond the inn. The numerous apes (p. 171) that dwell in the rocks here sometimes descend to the bottom of the valley.—12 M. _Camp-des-Chênes_ (1253 ft.; inn), beyond the lateral valley of the _Oued Merdja_. Following the valley of the _Oued Mouzaïa_ the train leads round the S. slope of Jebel Mouzaïa to (19½ M.) _Mouzaïa-les-Mines_ (1640 ft.), with its deserted copper and iron mines, and then, in numerous windings, ascends the W. slope of _Jebel Nador_ (3675 ft.; fine views) to (28 M.) _Lodi_ (3042 ft.).—31 M. =Médéa= (3019 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient; Hôt. du Commerce; pop. 3800, incl. 1900 Mohammedans and 1200 Jews), a small town, perhaps on the site of the Roman _Lambdia_ (_Tirinadis?_), was founded by Bologgîn ez-Ziri (comp. p. 221), and was the capital of a beylic in the Turkish period under the name of _Titteri_. Great native markets (Thurs. and Frid.). The environs yield excellent white wine, but it is often adulterated.—The train next ascends to the S.E., in numerous windings, to (44½ M.) _Ben-Chicao_ (3790 ft.), the highest station on the line.—52½ M. _Berrouaghia_ (2953 ft.; Hôt. de France; Hôt. des Voyageurs), a small town of 2300 inhab., is the present terminus of the line, which is being continued to Djelfa. A diligence runs daily in 5½ hrs. (at 1 p.m., returning at 9.35 a.m.) to (27½ M.) =Boghari= (2077 ft.; Hôt. Célestin, R. 2, déj. or D. 2½ fr.), a small trading town of some importance on the upper _Chélif_ (p. 208), with a Monday market and a picturesque Ksar on a hill (evening dances by girls of the Ouled Naïl tribe; see below). Boghari is the starting-point of the important caravan-route to the Sahara oases of _Laghouat_ and _Ghardaïa_. Diligence every other day at 3 a.m. vîa Aïn-Oussara and Djelfa (night-station) to Laghouat in 58 hrs. (also motor-omnibus sometimes); most of the stopping-places have very fair inns or caravanserais (R. usually 2, déj. or D. 2½ fr.). 13 M. _Boughzoul_ or _Bou-Guezoul_ (2100 ft.); 32½ M. =Aïn-Oussara= (2330 ft.); 57 M. _Guelt es-Stel_ (all three in the Hauts-Plateaux, p. 169); 85 M. _Zmila_ (good drinking-water); 96 M. =Djelfa= (3803 ft.; Hôt. de France, quite good; Hôt. du Roulage; pop. 2200), in the midst of the Sahara Atlas. This little town, situated in the valley of the _Oued Djelfa_ or _Melah_, where dolmens abound, and at the junction of our road with the caravan-route to Bou-Saâda (p. 270), is the capital of the nomad tribe of the _Ouled Naïl_, whose daughters usually lead an evil life in the S. Algerian towns before marriage. (Their valuable trinkets are noticeable.) 118 M. _Aïn-el-Ibel_ (3412 ft.); 137 M. _Sidi-Maklouf_ (3019 ft.).—177½ M. =Laghouat= (2461 ft.; Hôt. Storace, good; Hôt. Mendane; pop. 5700, incl 5000 Mohammedans and 400 Jews). This picturesque little town, on the S. slope of the Sahara Atlas, with its military headquarters and brisk trade, lies on the _Oued Mzi_ (called Oued Djedi lower down; p. 284), amidst the fruit-trees of a palm-oasis. It has a pretty Jardin Public. The native quarters present a curious and lively scene. The journey from Laghouat to (130½ M.) Ghardaïa by the rough Sahara road is very fatiguing. (Diligence every second day, in winter at 4 a.m., in summer at 5 p.m., in 30 hrs.; fare 30 or 25 fr.; motor-omnibus projected.) The chief stages are: 220½ M. (from Boghari) _Tilghemt_ or _Tilrempt_ (quarters), in an oasis of terebinths (p. 202); 265 M. _Berrian_ (1936 ft.), a little town of 3800 inhab., the northmost settlement of the Mozabites (17th cent.), lying on the chalky limestone plateau of the _Chebka_, with a palm-oasis on the _Oued Bir_. 308 M. (from Boghari; 130½ from Laghouat) =Ghardaïa= (1805 ft.; Hôt. du Sud; pop. 8200, incl. 5400 Mozabites), a free market, is one of the most picturesque and interesting places in the Sahara. Situated on the _Oued Mzab_, in a beautiful oasis, with 64,000 palms, the town is enclosed by a lofty wall defended with towers, and is dominated by the great minaret of the chief mosque. It holds high market on Fridays, and has two places of amusement (for Arabian music and dances). Ghardaïa is the headquarters of the _Mzab_, a small republic of towns which was founded in the 11th cent. by fugitive Berber Ibadites (p. 208) after the destruction of Tiaret, was presided over by a priestly caste (tholbas), and in 1852 became a protectorate of the French who annexed it in 1882. The _Mozabites_ or _Mzabites_, who hold aloof from the other Mohammedans, are often met with as artisans and small traders in the towns of the Tell Atlas and in the oases of the E. Sahara, but in their old age they always return to their original home. Their manners and customs are still somewhat mediæval; their mosques with minarets in the form of blunted pyramids, their curious cemeteries and tombs with votive offerings, and their schools will be found interesting. Their language is a Berber dialect akin to those of the Kabyles (p. 252) and the Tuâreg, but Arabic and French also are generally spoken. Among places worth seeing near Ghardaïa are (¾ M.) _Mélika_, with its black inhabitants and large cemeteries, and (1¼ M.) _Beni-Isguen_, a wealthy place of 5400 inhab., the sacred town of the Mozabite league, from which Arabs and Jews are excluded, with a massive town-wall, clean streets (smoking forbidden), and a loftily situated castle. The oldest town of the league is _El-Ateuf_, founded in 1012, with 2000 inhab., 5½ M. to the E. of Ghardaïa, on the caravan-route to (55½ M.) the Mozabite colony of _Guerrara_. Other caravan-routes lead from Ghardaïa to the S.W. viâ (166 M.) _El-Goléa_ (1280 ft.), with its small oasis, to _In Salah_ and the _Tuat Oases_, and to the S.E. to (112 M.) _Ouargla_ (p. 285). Beyond Blida the train, running to the N.E., through orange-groves and fields of vegetables, again descends to the Mitidja. 234 M. _Beni-Mered_ (459 ft.), with fertile gardens. 239 M. =Boufarik= (164 ft.; Hôt. Benoît, Boul. National; Hôt. Nemoz, Place Mazagran, D. 2 fr., quite good; Hôt. de la Gare, humble; omn. to the Place Mazagran; pop. 6000), once a fever-stricken village of peasants, is now the centre of trade for the produce of the Mitidja. Around it are admirably irrigated vineyards and orchards (oranges, mandarins, etc.), sheltered from the prevailing winds by planes, thujas (arbor vitæ), or cypresses. Near it are factories of perfume and immense wine-cellars. To the W. of the town is the large _Marché Arabe_ (cattle-market; Monday), 12 min. from the Place Mazagran, or reached by a road direct from the station. On the right, farther on, we observe the hill-ranges of _Rovigo_ and _L’Arba_ (pp. 248, 247) and the _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (p. 249). Beyond (245½ M.) _Birtouta-Chebli_ we near the low spurs of the _Sahel_ (p. 221). 252½ M. _Gué-de-Constantine_, in the plain of the brook _Harrach_ (p. 247), where the eucalyptus abounds. [Illustration: ALGER] 254½ M. _Maison-Carrée_ (p. 247), junction of the lines to Tizi-Ouzou (R. 38), Bougie (R. 37), Constantine (R. 43), and Biskra (R. 44), and also of the tramways to Aïn-Taya and Rovigo (p. 219). The train turns to the N.W. and reaches the shore. High up on the left lies _Kouba_ (p. 233). 257½ M. _Hussein-Dey_, see p. 233. Skirting the _Jardin d’Essai_, on the left (p. 232), we now sight Algiers. Beyond the S.E. suburbs of _Le Hamma_, _Belcourt_, and _Mustapha-Inférieur_ (p. 232), we come to the minor station of (260½ M.) _Agha_ and then to the (262½ M.) main station of _Algiers_. 34. Algiers. ARRIVAL BY SEA. The French steamboat lines (RR. 20, 22) have their own piers. The fare for landing by boat from other steamers is 30 c. (trunk 20 c.; small articles free). The tariff of the porters (portefaix-commissionnaires, largely natives, mostly exorbitant) to the lower part of the old town is 25 c. for a trunk of 25 kilos (55 lbs.), 50 c. up to 50 kilos, and 1 fr. up to 100 kilos; for porterage to the custom-house (Douane; where baggage is not cleared on Sun. or festivals) 25–50 c., according to bargain. The numbered porters of the steamboat companies had better be employed; or the matter may be entrusted to the hotel-agents. The services of guides, interpreters, and the like should be declined. =Railway Stations.= 1. _Chief Station_ (Gare; Pl. C, 3), Quai Sud, below the Rampes Magenta (p. 223) and Boul. Carnot, 5–15 min. from the hotels in the town, ¾–1 hr. from those at Mustapha-Supérieur: station for all the hotel-omnibuses (no tramway; cabs, see p. 218).—2. _Gare de l’Agha_ (Pl. C, 5, 6; also goods-station), Rue Sadi-Carnot, at Agha-Inférieur (p. 232), a subordinate station for the S. quarters of the town.—Town-offices of the railways, Boul. Carnot 2 and at the Agence Lubin (p. 219). =Hotels= (comp. p. 174; in Feb. and March rooms should be ordered in advance). In the _Villa Quarter_ (Mustapha-Supérieur and Quartier d’lsly; mostly closed in summer), suitable for some stay, clientèle largely English and American: *HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; A, 6), Chemin du Télemly and Boul. Bon-Accueil (entered also from the Station Sanitaire, p. 228), on a high site, with fine views and garden, R. 5–20, B. 1½, déj. 4–5, D. 6–8, pens. from 13, omn. 3 fr.; *HÔT. ST. GEORGE (Pl. a; A, 8), Rue Michelet, with beautiful grounds, R. 5–15, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 6–7, pens. 13–25, omn. 3 fr.; ALEXANDRA (Hôt. Kirsch; Pl. b, A 8), same street, with garden and small terrace, R. 4–18, B. 2, déj. 3½–4½, D. 5–6, pens. 12–25, omn. 3 fr., good cuisine; these three are of the first class.—HÔT. ORIENTAL (Pl. f; A, 6), Boul. Bon-Accueil (entrance from Station Sanitaire), with garden, R. 5–10, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. from 9 fr., good cuisine; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. g; A, 7), above Rue Michelet, with fine grounds, pens. 9–12 fr.; HÔT. BEAU-SÉJOUR (Pl. e; A, 6), Rue Michelet, below the Museum Terrace (p. 228), R. 3–8, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, pens. 8–10, omn. 2½ fr., open throughout the year; PENS. VILLA OLIVAGE, beyond the Bois de Boulogne (p. 230), good; PENS. VICTORIA, Rue Michelet, near the Colonne Voirol. In the _Town_, nearer the sights, more convenient for excursions: *HÔT. EXCELSIOR (Pl. h; C, 4, 5), Boul. Laferrière, 8 min. from the Gare de l’Agha, well fitted up, with restaurant, R. 1–30, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 5, board 8, omn. (also from the Agha station) 1 fr.; *HÔT. DE L’OASIS (Pl. k; C, 3), Rue du Laurier 2 and Boul. de la République 9, with fine views, restaurant, and American bar, R. 3–18, B. 1½, pens. from 10, omn. 1¼ fr.; HÔT. DE LA REGENCE (Pl. 1; C, 2), Place du Gouvernement 3, R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens. 12–20, omn. 1½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. ARAGO & DU PALMIER (Pl. m; C, 3), Rue Arago 6, quiet; HÔT. DE NICE (Pl. n; C, 8), Rue Garibaldi 2 and Place de la République (Square Bresson). =Hôtels Garnis.= HÔT. DES ETRANGERS (Pl. i; C, 3), Rue Dumont-d’Urville 1, near the Place de la République, R. 3½–7½, B. 1½, HÔT. D’EUROPE & TERMINUS (Pl. o; C, 3), Rue Garibaldi, corner of Boul. Carnot (R. 3–7, B. 1 fr.), ROYAL HOTEL (Pl. p; C, 3), Boul. de la République 10 (R. from 2½ fr.), both with fine views; HÔT. REGINA, Boul. Bugeaud. =Cafés.= _Café Continental_ (_Brasserie Maxéville_), _Café d’Alger_ (_Brass. de Tantonville_), both Place de la République; _Café de Bordeaux_, Boul. de la République 1, corner of Place du Gouvernement; _Café d’Apollon_, Place du Gouvernement 4.—CONFECTIONER. _Maison Fille_, Rue Bab-Azoun 2. =Restaurants.= At the _Hôtel Excelsior_ (p. 217); _London House_, at the Hôt. de l’Oasis, Boul. de la République 9, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; *_Taverne Gruber_, same boulevard, No. 7, a favourite resort (music in the afternoon and evening); _Jaumon_, Rue Dumont-d’Urville, déj. 2, D. 2½ fr., plain but good.—For LUNCHEON (fish, sea-crayfish, shell-fish, etc.): *_Restaur. Cassar_ and _Restaur. de la Pêcherie_, Rampe de la Pêcherie.—BEER at the *_Brasserie Terminus_, Boul. Carnot 1 (in Hôt. de l’Europe), D. 3 fr.; also, Rue de la Liberté 6, _Brass. de l’Etoile_ (music in the afternoon and evening) No. 11, _Brass. Suisse_; No. 8, _Brass. du Phénix_; No. 1, _Brass. Lorraine_. =Cabs= (_voitures de place_). ‘_Double courses_’ (there and back):— │ │per │ │hr. a) within the _First Zone_, extending as far as the │ │ European cemetery of St. Eugène (beyond Pl. B, 1) to │ │ the N. and as the beginning of the Champ de Manœuvres │ │ (Pl. C, 7) to the S. │1.50│2.— Each ¼ hr. │—.50│ b) within the _Second Zone_, including the W. margin of │ │ the town (Prison Civile, Télemly, Palais d’Eté at │ │ Mustapha, etc.) and extending as far as Deux-Moulins │ │ beyond St. Eugène (comp. Map, at p. 233) to the N. and │ │ the Cimetière Musulman (Pl. D, 9) at │ 2.—│2.— Belcourt to the S. To the Jardin d’Essai (and back) │2.50│ Each ¼ hr. │—.75│ Within the _Third Zone_ comprising the regions beyond those │ │ just named: │ │ Half-day (6 hrs.), within a radius of 15 kilometers (9½│ │ M.) │11.—│ Whole day (12 hrs.), within a radius of 25 kilomètres │ │ (15½ M.) │20.—│ During the night-hours (12–6 a.m.) a fare and a half is charged.—For waiting, ½ fr. extra for each ¼ hr.—Hand-luggage up to 20 kilos (44 lbs.) free; each piece exceeding that 50 c. =Motor Cabs= (_Automobiles de place_; stand, Rue Garibaldi). Drive under 900 mètres (984 yds.) 1 fr. 50 c.; for each addit. 300 m. 20 c.; small articles free; trunk 50 c. =Carriages= (cabs and ‘voitures de grande remise’; fares raised on Sun. and holidays). _Vitoz & Co._, Rue Michelet 105, Mustapha-Supérieur; _Sanino_, Rue de Strasbourg 3, and Rue Michelet 117; _Comp. Générale des Voitures_, Rue de Strasbourg 7.—Saddle Horses let by _Vitoz_ and _Sanino_.— =Motor Cars= for excursions: _Metrot_, _Marcé_, both Rue d’Isly 39; _Anglo-American Garage_, Chemin du Télemly; _E. Paul_, Rue d’Isly 73. =Tramways= (1st and 2nd cl.). =1= (without name-board). From _Hôpital du Dey_ (Pl. A, B, 1) to Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 1, 2), Place du Gouvernement (Pl. C, 2), Rue Bab-Azoun (Pl. C, 2, 3), Rue d’Isly (Pl. C, 3, 4), _Rue Michelet_, and _Station Sanitaire_ (Pl. A, 6), every 5 min. (but 5–6 a.m. and 10–12 p.m. every 10 min. only); fare 5–20 c.—=2= (red name-board). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Rue d’Isly, Rue Michelet, and _Colonne Voirol_ (comp. Pl. A, 8), every ½ hr. (from 6 a.m., last car at 8.5 p.m.), in 40 min.; fare 30 or 20 c.—=3= (blue). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Rue d’Isly, Rue Michelet, and _Boul. Bru_ (Pl. A-C, 8, 9), every ½ hr. (last car 7.50), in ½ hr.; 30 or 20 c.—=4= (green). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Boul. Carnot (Pl. C, 3), Rue de Constantine (Pl. C, 4), Rue Sadi-Carnot (Pl. B, 5, 6), Rue de Lyon (Pl. B-E, 7–9), Le Ruisseau, and _Kouba_; as far as Marabout (Cimetière Musulman de Belcourt) every 5 min.; to Les Platanes (Jardin d’Essai) every 10 min.; to Kouba every 40 min.; fare 35 or 30 c.—=5= (red). From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Boul. Carnot, Rue Sadi-Carnot, Jardin d’Essai (Oasis des Palmiers, in 27 min.), Nouvel Ambert, _Maison-Carrée_ (in 1 hr.); as far as Nouvel Ambert every 10 min., to Maison-Carrée every 20 min.; fare 60 or 45 c.—=6.= From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Rue de la Lyre (Pl. C, 2, 3), Rue Rovigo (Pl. C, 3), Prison Civile (Pl. B, C, 2; 20 or 15 c.), El-Biar (comp. Pl. A, 4; 40 or 35 c.), and _Château-Neuf_ (in 50 min.; 50 or 40 c.); as far as Prison Civile every ¼ hr., to El-Biar every ½ hr., to Château-Neuf once every hr. (Sun. every ½ hr.).—=7.= From _Place du Gouvernement_ to Boul. de France (Pl. D, 2), Esplanade (Pl. C, 1), Bab el-Oued (Pl. B, 1), St. Eugène (comp. Pl. B, 1), and _Deux Moulins_, every 9 min.; 30 or 20 c. =Steam Tramways= from the Place du Gouvernement: to (7½ M.) _Maison-Carrée_ (p. 247), and thence either to (4½ M.) _Fort-de-l’Eau_ (p. 248) and (12½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_ (p. 248), or to (10½ M.) _L’Arba_ (p. 247) and (15½ M.) _Rovigo_ (p. 248); to (22 M.) _Mazafran_ (p. 238), and thence either to (6¼ M.) _Koléa_ (p. 238), or to (6½ M.) _Castiglione_ (p. 238). =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 22, C4; p. 226), Rue de Constantine 133; branches at Rue de Strasbourg 2, in the Palais Consulaire (p. 223), at Rue Michelet 64 (Mustapha-Inférieur), near the Palais d’Eté (p. 230), etc. =Steamboat Agents.= _Cunard_, _North German Lloyd_ (R. 15b), _Hamburg-American_, _German Levant_ (RR. 15b. 22), and _Hungarian Adria_ (R. 22). R. Heckmann, Rue Colbert 1; _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ (RR. 20, 22), Boul. Carnot 6 and Quai de la Marine; _Soc. de Transports Maritimes_ (R. 20), Boul. de la République 2 and Quai de la Marine; _Comp. de Navigation Mixte_ (R. 20), Boul. Carnot 2 and Quai do la Marine; _White Star Line_, _Austro-American Line_, J. Crispo, Boul. de la République 3; _Nederland Royal Mail_, J. Bergeret, Boul. Carnot; _Compañía Mallorquina de Vapores_ (R. 20), J. J. Sitges Frères, Quai Nord 40. =Tourist Agents.= _R. Heckmann_ (Universal Tourist Office), Boul. de la République 11; _Agence Lubin_, Rue de la Liberté 7; _Agence Duchemin_, same street, No. 4.—Information obtainable also from the _Comité d’Hivernage_, Rue Combe 2. 8–11 and 2–6 (Sun. 8–11).—_Club Alpin Français_ (section de l’Atlas), Palais Consulaire (p. 223). =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _B. S. Cave_, Boul. Carnot 6; vice-consuls, _L. G. C. Graham_, _L. Graeme Scott_.—U. S. Consul, _A. W. Robert_, Rue d’Isly 64. =Physicians.= _Dr. Dangerfield_, Kent House, Colonne Voirol; _Dr. Gubb_, Mustapha, Chemin des Glycines; _Dr. Nissen_, Mustapha-Supérieur, Villa Bey, Rue Michelet.—CHEMISTS. _Grandmont_ (_Obrecht_), Rue Bab-Azoun 28; _Licht_, Rue Michelet 85; _Brenta_, Rue Bab-Azoun 3. =Baths.= _Bains du Palmier_, Rue Arago 6 (Gr.-Hôt. Arago & du Palmier); _Bains du Hamma_, Rue du Hamma 1 (near the Théâtre Municipal); _Bains Michelet_, Rue de Richelieu 25.—MOORISH BATHS (comp. p. 175): _Bains de l’Alhambra_, Rue Marengo 4.—SEA BATHS (June-Oct.; plainly fitted up; costume 50 c.): _Bains du Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 233); _Bains Nelson_, Avenue Malakoff. =Banks= (comp. p. 174). _Crédit Lyonnais_, Boul. de la République 6; _Comp. Algérienne_, Rue Dumont-d’Urville; _Banque de l’Algérie_, _Crédit Foncier et Agricole d’Algérie_, _Crédit Agricole et Commerciel Algérien_ (J. Thibaud), all three in the Boul. de la République (Nos. 5, 8, & 4). =Booksellers.= _Jourdan_, Place du Gouvernement and Rue Cléopâtre 1; _Chaix_, Rue d’Isly 11bis; _Relin_, Rue d’Isly 11; _Ruff_, Rue Bab-Azoun 10; _Carbonnel_, _Ledoux_, both Boul. de la République (Nos. 2 & 7).—=Newspapers= (5 c.). _La Dépêche Algérienne_ (morning); Les Nouvelles, _Le Cri d’Alger_ (evening). For strangers, _The North African News_ (Sat.; 25 c.). =Shops= (caution almost as necessary as at Tunis; comp. p. 331). PHOTOGRAPHS AND VIEWS. _Geiser_, Place de Chartres 2; _A. Wollenweider_, Rue du Divan 4; _Hyam_, Station Sanitaire (Pl. A, 6).—ORIENTAL ARTICLES (partly made in France and Germany; also Indian, Japanese, and Turkish wares). _Ratto_ (goldsmith), Rue Socgémah 12; _Pohoomull Frères_, Rue Bab-Azoun 11; _Ratto-Magana_, Rue de l’Etat Major 5; _Miss Jockyl_, English Club Buildings, Mustapha-Supérieur.—EMBROIDERY. _Mme. Hémery_, Rue Michelet 89, Mustapha-Supérieur.—COPPER AND BRASS WORK. _Zagha_ (from Damascus), Rue Bruce 27; _Nassan_, Place Malakoff. =Theatres.= _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. 26; C, 3), Place de la République, for operas, operettas, and dramas, closed in summer; _Kursaal_ (Pl. C, 1), Esplanade de Bab-el-Oued (tickets sold in advance at 4 Boul. de la République.—_Casino Music Hall_), Rue d’Isly 9 (fauteuil 2½ fr.).—_Fêtes Mauresques_ at the Kasba, arranged by the Comité d’Hivernage (p. 219), with native musicians and dancers (adm. 5 fr.). =Band= plays in winter, Sun. and Thurs., 4–5, in the Place du Gouvernement; in summer (May-Oct.), on Mon., Wed., and Sat., from 8 to 10.30, in the Place de la République (Square Bresson), and on Sun., Tues., and Thurs., from 8 to 10.30, in the Place du Gouvernement. =Golf Club=, with good nine hole course, near the Pens. Villa Olivage (p. 217).—SKATING RINK at the corner of Boul. Carnot and Rue Waïsse (Pl. C, 4). =Churches.= _English_ (_Ch. of the Holy Ghost_; p. 230), Rue Michelet (Pl. A, 7), to the N. of the Alexandra Hotel (p. 217); Sun. services at 8 and 11.30 or 9.45 a.m.; chaplain, _Rev. A. P. Cronyn, M. A._—_Presbyterian_ (_St. Andrew’s_; Pl. 7, A 6) also Rue Michelet, Sun. service at 10.30 a.m.; minister, _Rev. T. E. Jubb_, M. A. =Sights=, with days and hours of admission:— _Archevêché_ (p. 224), all day; fee ½–1 fr. _Bibliothèque Nationale_ (p. 225), week-days 1–6; closed Aug. and Sept. _Conseil Général_ (p. 224), apply to secretary; week-days 8–11 and 1–5. _Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 232), all day (_Zoologie_ 50 c.). _Kasba Barracks_ (p. 227), apply to Etat-Major, Rue de la Marine 11. _Medersa_ (p. 228), except during lectures; closed Sun., Frid., and on great Mohammedan festivals. _Mosquée de la Pêcherie_ (p. 223), at any time except during prayers. _Mosque, Great_ (p. 224), as above. _Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân_ (p. 228), Sun., Mon., Tues., 8–12 and 2–3; closed on the chief Mohammedan holidays. _Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts_ (p. 226), daily, except Friday. _Museum_ (p. 229), daily, except Mon., 1–4 (1st April to 15th July 2–5; closed 16th July to 30th Sept.). _Palais d’Eté du Gouverneur_ (p. 230), in his absence; fee ½–1 fr. _Palais d’Hiver du Gouverneur_ (p. 225), as above. _Synagogue_ (p. 227), all Frid., Sat. after 12, at other times apply to keeper, 30–50 c. As to visiting the _Mosques_, see p. 174.—Men are not admitted to the _Mohammedan Cemeteries_ (p. xxvi) on Frid. and holidays 12–6. TWO DAYS. 1st. Forenoon, _Place de la République_, _Boul. de la République_, _Place du Gouvernement_, _Great Mosque_, _Archevêché_ (pp. 222–224), *_Kasba Quarter_ (pp. 226, 227), *_Mosque of Sidi-Abderrahmân_ (p. 228), and *_Jardin Marengo_ (p. 224). Afternoon, _Mustapha-Supérieur_ with the *_Museum_ (pp. 228–230).—2nd. Forenoon, _Mohammedan Cemetery_ at _Belcourt_ (p. 232), *_Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 232). Afternoon, _Notre-Dame d’Afrique_ (p. 236) or _Bouzaréah_ (p. 235). _Algiers_, French _Alger_, Ital. _Algéri_, the capital of the French colony of Algeria, with 154,000 inhab. (incl. 35,200 foreigners, mostly Italians and Spaniards, 33,200 Mohammedans, and 12,500 Jews), seat of the archbishop of Algeria, a fortress, and a naval harbour, lies in 36°47′ N. lat. and 3°2′ E. long., on the W. side of the nearly semicircular *_Baie d’Alger_, which is bounded on the W. by the _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), and on the E. by _Cape Matifou_ (p. 248). It is the most important coaling-station on the whole coast, and shares with Oran the chief trade of Algeria. The town extends along the slopes of the _Sahel of Algiers_, a range of hills about 44 M. long, culminating in _Mt. Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), continued beyond the mouth of the _Oued el-Harrach_ by low sand-hills, and separated from the Tell Atlas by the _Mitidja_ (p. 169). With regard to climate, see pp. 170, 172. On the site of the Roman _Icosium_, an unimportant place on the road to Tipasa and Cæsarea (Cherchell, p. 244), _Bologgîn ez-Ziri_ (p. 323), about 940 (about the same date as the foundation of Miliana and Médéa) founded the new colony of _Al-Jezaïr Beni Mezghanna_, so called from the adjacent coast-islands (jezîra, pl. jezaïr) and from the Berber tribe of the Beni Mezghanna who dwelt in this region. It is recorded that in the 11th cent. the inhabitants of the new settlement used the old Roman baths, of which there is now no trace, for their amusements and an old Christian basilica for their worship. From that time the history of Al-Jezaïr is a blank down to the end of the 15th cent., when it began to serve the Moorish exiles from Spain (afterwards called Tagarins here) as a base of their retaliatory expeditions against Spain. In 1509 or 1510 the Spaniards, in the course of their victorious career, occupied the largest of the coast-islands, where they erected the fortress of _El-Peñón_, and conquered the Mitidja which had recently been colonized by the Arabian tribe of the Tsaliba. The little town, called _Argel_ by the Spaniards, was inhabited by Mohammedans, who in 1516 summoned to their aid, from Djidjelli, _Horuk (Arudj) Barbarossa_, a Turkish pirate of Christian descent. Horuk complied with the request and established himself at Al-Jezaïr, where, after repelling a Spanish expedition under Diego de Vera (1516), he erected the Jenina as his residence and the Kasba as his citadel. Having fallen in a battle with the Spaniards near Tlemcen (p. 187), Horuk was succeeded by his brother _Kheireddin Barbarossa_ (1518–36), who became the real founder of the new barbaresco or piratical state. As a vassal of the sultan of Turkey he extended his sway over the greater part of Algeria. He defeated Hugo de Moncada, the Spanish viceroy, in 1519, and in 1530, after having stormed the fortress of Peñón, he constructed the Jetée de Kheireddin with its materials and with others from Rusguniæ (p. 248) and Tipasa, thus creating the first harbour of Algiers. Thenceforwards for three centuries the ‘Algerian pirates’ were the terror of the seas, to whom, for protection of their trade, England, Holland, the Hanseatic towns, and other maritime countries ignominiously consented to pay tribute. Fourteen times the European powers, from the time of the fruitless campaign of Charles V. in 1541 to the British expedition of 1824, had besieged and bombarded Algiers in vain. The beys (or, after 1600, deys) had succeeded in maintaining their position, and in 1627 had even carried their piratical expeditions as far as Iceland. It was not till 1830 that these barbarous piracies were put a stop to by the French, and that the way was thus paved for conquest of the whole of Algeria. The most stirring events in the recent history of Algeria were the conquest of Constantine (1837), the protracted struggles against _Abd el-Kâder_ (1839–47), the defeat of his Moroccan allies on the Oued Isly (1844), the subjection of Great Kabylia (1856–7), the revolts of the natives in 1871–2, the rising of _Bou-Amama_ in S. Oran (1881), the occupation of the Sahara as far as Tidikelt and the Tuat oases (1892–1901), and lastly the French advance towards Morocco (comp. p. 96). The Algiers of the Turkish period consisted solely of the triangular quarter on the slope of the _Kasba Hill_, between the old landward gates, _Bab Azoun_ on the S. and _Bab el-Oued_ on the N., with the _Sûk_ or Market Street (now Rue Bab-Azoun and Rue Bab el-Oued) as its nucleus. Between these two gates ran the old Turkish wall, on whose site lie the Boul. Gambetta (Pl. B, C, 3), on the S., and the Boul. Valée (Pl. C, 2), on the N. The French ramparts constructed in 1845 extended the town as far as the present Boul. Laferrière (Pl. C, 4, 5) to the S., and to the Boul. du Général Farre to the N. (Pl. C, 1). Since the demolition of these fortifications in 1904 the industrial suburbs on the coast and the lofty villa-suburbs, _Quartier d’Isly_ (Pl. B, 4, 5), _Télemly_ (Pl. A, 5, 6), and _Mustapha-Supérieur_ (Pl. A, 7, 8), which last is little frequented except in winter, have all been brought within the precincts of the town. a. Lower Quarter of the Old Town. The chief business parts of the town are the arcades, with their numerous shops, in the Rue Bab-Azoun (Pl. C, 2, 3) and Rue Bab el-Oued (Pl. C, 2; p. 224), the Place du Gouvernement (Pl. C, 2; p. 223), the focus of all the tramways, and above all the spacious PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE (Pl. C, 3), with the gardens of _Square Bresson_ (band, see p. 220), adorned with bamboos and magnolias, the _Théâtre Municipal_ (p. 220), and the most showy cafés. Between these two places and the sea, at a height of 65 ft. above the quay and its warehouses, run the uniform rows of houses of the BOULEVARD DE FRANCE (Pl. D, 2; p. 223), the BOULEVARD DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE, completed in 1866, and the BOULEVARD CARNOT (Pl. C, 3, 4), with the new _Préfecture_ (Pl. 23; C, 4) in the Moorish style (1910). These streets, together 1 M. long, form a coast-promenade, whence in clear weather we enjoy a splendid *View of the blue bay, the Atlas Mts. of Blida, and the distant Jurjura chain (p. 258). In stormy weather, however, the Rampe de l’Amirauté (Pl. D, 2; p. 223) and the Boul. Amiral Pierre (Pl. C, D, 1, 2; p. 224) attract many walkers. The sole =Harbour=, prior to the French period, was the _Ancien Port_, or _Darse de l’Amirauté_ (Pl. D, 2), constructed by Kheireddin Barbarossa, once a nest of piratical vessels, and now a torpedo-boat station and anchorage for yachts and fishing-boats. The new _Port de Commerce_ and _Port Militaire_, 213 acres in area, with the _Quai de la Marine_, which was extended in 1908, have been formed since 1848 at a cost of 46 million francs. They are protected by the wave-beaten _Jetée du Nord_, 984 yds. long, the prolongation of the old Jetée of Kheireddin (comp. p. 221), and by the Jetée du Sud, 1350 yds. in length. The entrance is 268 yds. in breadth. A second commercial harbour, the _Arrière-Port_ (Pl. C, D, 5, 6), was begun in 1898, but is still uncompleted. The harbour is approached by the _Rampes Magenta_, descending from Boul. Carnot to the principal railway-station (p. 217), by the _Rampes Chasseloup-Laubat_, connecting the Boul. de la République with the Douane (Pl. D, 3) and with the warehouses and offices of the French steamboat-companies, and by the _Rampe de l’Amirauté_ (Pl. D, 2), on the old Jetée of Kheireddin. This jetty or quay, the oldest of all, connects the old Porte de France on the mainland (once the Turkish sea-gate) with what was once the island of Peñón (p. 221), now the _Presqu’île de l’Amirauté._ Walkers may descend also by the _Escaliers du Bastion Central_, opposite the Square Bresson (p. 222), or from the Place du Gouvernement by the _Escaliers de la Pêcherie_, past the mosque of that name and the _Fish Market_, which is worth seeing in the early morning. On the Quai du Nord, between the approach to the fish-market and the old Porte de France, a pretty _Turkish Fountain_ has been preserved. Adjoining the neo-Moorish _Palais de l’Amirauté_ (Pl. D, 2) is the Turkish _Gate_, with two heraldic animals (panthers?), an interesting relic of the Bordj Ras el-Moul which was burned down in 1816. We notice also several muzzle-loading guns built into the wall, now serving as bulkheads or as posts for mooring vessels. Visitors are not admitted to the _Phare_ (Pl. D, 2; lighthouse), a relic of the Turkish fort erected in 1544 on the site of the Spanish castle of Peñón, nor to the small _Station Zoologique_ (Pl. D, 2). We now follow the Boul. de France, past the handsome _Palais Consulaire_ (Pl. 19, D 2; chamber of commerce, exchange, etc.), to the— PLACE DU GOUVERNEMENT, the noisiest place in the town, crowded with natives at all hours (concerts, see p. 220). The equestrian statue, in bronze, of the _Duke of Orleans_ (1810–42), a distinguished general in the Algerian campaigns, is by the Piedmontese Carlo Marocchetti (1845). Behind the statue, and half concealed by the Boul. de France, is the curiously incongruous— =Mosquée de la Pêcherie= (Pl. 16, D 2; Arabic _Jâma el-Jedid_, new mosque), erected by Turkish architects in 1660 for adherents of the Hanefite ritual (p. 445). It is a cruciform building with nave and aisles, a huge central dome tastelessly painted inside, a rich marble pulpit of Italian workmanship, and a square minaret (now clock-tower). Entrance in the Rampe de la Pêcherie (adm., see p. 220). A few paces to the E. of the Place du Gouvernement, adjoining the Rue de la Marine (Pl. D, 2), the harbour-street of the Turkish and early French period, is the small Place de la Pêcherie, the site of the pirates’ _Slave Market_. Close by is the =Great Mosque= (Pl. 15, D 2; Arabic _Jâma el-Kebîr_), the oldest and largest mosque in the town, founded in 1018 for believers in the Malekite ritual, but often altered since then. Both the mosque and its minaret, originally built by the Abdelwadite Abû Tâkhfîn (p. 190) in 1322–3, have now been modernized. The entrance is by a portico in the Rue de la Marine, erected in 1837 with materials from a mosque of the Jenina (p. 225), leading into a court, embellished with a Turkish fountain, and to the unadorned sacred building itself, with its eleven aisles or arcades and horseshoe arches resting on low pillars. The quarter to the N.W. of the Rue de la Marine, between Boul. Amiral-Pierre (Pl. C, D, 1, 2) and Rue Bab el-Oued (see below), is inhabited mainly by Italians and natives and still contains many mediæval features in its sombre lanes and passages. Soon after entering it, we come to a pleasing _Turkish House_, Rue Duquesne, No. 15, in the small square of that name, with a marble portal and a two-storied court. The building of the =Conseil Général= (Pl. 5a, D 2; adm., see p. 220), close by, Rue de la Charte No. 5, a good example of Moorish-Turkish architecture, with its Renaissance portal, was the British consulate in the Turkish period. No. 29, in the adjoining Rue d’Orléans, has a remarkably rich Italian Renaissance portal. The short Rue du Quatorze-Juin, the last houses in the Rue des Consuls (Pl. D, 2), occupied by the other European consuls in the Turkish period, and the adjacent narrow Rue Navarin and Rue Jean-Bart, all have the character of the Kasba quarter (p. 227). The narrow passage called Rue des Postes leads here to the Rue Volland (Pl. C, 1), the cross-street between Boul. Amiral-Pierre and the AVENUE BAB EL-OUED (Pl. C, 1). Here, on the right, are the barracks and the _Kursaal Theatre_ (p. 220), and on the left the _Lycée National_, on the site of the Turkish janissaries’ barracks. The Rampe Valée ascending hence to the Kasba quarter skirts the *=Jardin Marengo= (Pl. C, 1), a public park, laid out in 1834–47 on the site of the Mohammedan cemetery; the grounds, with their wealth of palms, yuccas, and bamboos, climb the hill-side as far as the mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân (p. 228). We now return by the RUE BAB EL-OUED (Pl. C, 2; p. 222) to the Place du Gouvernement. Halfway, in the Rue de la Kasba (p. 227), rises on the right the church of _Notre-Dame des Victoires_ (Pl. 8; C, 2), formerly a mosque (_Jâma Bitchnîn_, of 1622). From the W. side of the Place du Gouvernement (p. 223) the Rue du Divan and Rue du Soudan lead to the small PLACE MALAKOFF, on the E. side of which, between these streets, rises the— *=Archevêché= (Pl. 1, C 2; archbishop’s palace), the finest and but little modernized relic of the _Jenina_ founded by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221) in 1516. In the course of centuries this residence of the beys was gradually extended to the Rue Jenina and the Rue Socgémah, and in 1816 was at length superseded by the Kasba (p. 227). The entrance is by the Renaissance portal (adm., see p. 220; apply to the concierge). The fine court, with its two stories and horseshoe arches resting on slender winding columns, is remarkable for its harmonious proportions. The walls are adorned with tiles of little value, but the rich wrought-iron gratings of the windows deserve notice. The upper story, whose galleries have small domed chambers at the four corners, is adjoined by rooms sumptuously decorated like those of the Alcázar at Seville (p. 61). We note in particular the lavish ornamentation in stucco, the elegant window-shutters, restored in part, and the beautiful ceilings in cedar and oak panelling. The room converted into a chapel has been materially altered. The =Cathedral= (Pl. 3, C 2; _St. Philippe_), on the W. side of the same Place, built since 1843 in a strangely mingled Moorish and Romanesque style, occupies the site of the _Ketshâwa Mosque_ erected by Hassan Pasha in 1791 (see below). The façade is adorned with two towers resembling minarets. The first chapel contains the bones of the so-called Gerónimo, a Christian Arab (comp. p. 230), who is said to have been immured alive in 1569. The _Palais d’Hiver du Gouverneur_ (Pl. 21, C 2; adm., see p. 220), built by Hassan Pasha (1791–9), like the National Library (see below), is one of the latest specimens of Moorish-Turkish architecture in Algeria; but it has been entirely remodelled to suit its present purpose and has been provided with a new façade. Above the old portal, Rue du Soudan No. 5 (now Bureau Arabe; see p. 174), is a pretty carved projecting roof. No. 7, next door, has a rich marble portal. The roof affords a good survey of the whole of the Jenina buildings. To the N. of the Place Malakoff, in the Rue de l’Etat-Major, No. 12, on the left, is the— =National Library= (Pl. 2; C, 2), in the old palace of Mustapha Pasha (1799–1805), containing about 40,000 vols. and 2000 MSS. Adm., see p. 220. Librarian, M. E. Maupas. Adjoining the vestibule (skiffa), adorned with clustered columns and Delft fayence, on the left, is the two-storied *Quadrangle, similar to that of the archiepiscopal palace. In the gallery of the first floor are views of Old Algiers (including the bombardment by the British fleet in 1824). Adjacent are two small reading-rooms containing a valuable collection of Arabic, Berber, and Turkish MSS. (shown only on application to the curator M. Abdeltif). The charters of the Turkish period also are important. The _Bureaux du Gouvernement_, Rue Bruce 10, which once belonged to the Jenina buildings, also are worth seeing (apply to the governor’s secretary). So, too, is the pleasing _Dwelling House_, Rue Socgémah 12 (now owned by M. Ratto, goldsmith; p. 220).—The old _Dâr Soof_ (wool-exchange), Rue de l’Intendance 1, one of the most ornate Mauro-Turkish buildings in the town, is now a private house and can be seen only by special introduction. We now turn to the E. to visit the Rue de Chartres or the Rue de la Lyre (Pl. C, 2, 3), which, like the neighbouring Rue Randon in the Kasba quarter (p. 227), contain countless little shops kept by Jews and Mozabites (p. 216). The _Marché de Chartres_ and the _Marché de la Lyre_ (Pl. 14; C, 3) are the chief provision markets. In the afternoon the former is devoted to the sale of second-hand goods. The Rue de Chartres and the two flights of steps in the Place de la Lyre, next to the theatre, lead back to the Place de la République (p. 222). To the S. of the Place de la République are the new quarters of the town. At the beginning of the RUE DE CONSTANTINE (Pl. C, 3, 4), on the left, is the new _Palais de Justice_ (Pl. 20; C, 3), in the pseudo-classical style. On the right is the new-Romanesque church of _St. Augustin_ (Pl. 9; C, 3). At the back of this church runs the Rue Dumont-d’Urville (Pl. C, 3), passing almost immediately on the left the Rue de Tanger, in which rises the small _Mosque of the Mozabites_ (p. 216), and leading to the long and monotonous RUE D’ISLY (Pl. C, 4). The latter crosses the Place d’Isly. (Pl. C, 4), where a monument has been erected to _Marshal Bugeaud_ (1784–1849), the conqueror of Abd el-Kâder (p. 221). Farther on in the Rue de Constantine, on the left, at No. 32 is the _Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts_ (adm., see p. 220), containing a small collection of pictures mostly by French painters. The Rue de Constantine and Rue d’Isly reach the boundary of the old town at the new _Post Office_ (Pl. 22, C, 4; p. 219), a neo-Moorish building (1910), on the N. side of the BOULEVARD LAFERRIÈRE (Pl. C, 4, 5; p. 222), or Boul. Militaire Sud. To the right, above, are the handsome offices of the _Dépêche Algérienne_ (p. 220), in the neo-Moorish style. The open space on the left, down by the sea, is destined for the future _Central Station_. From Boul. Laferrière to _Mustapha-Supérieur_, see pp. 231, 230; to _Belcourt_ and _Le Hamma_, see p. 232. b. The Kasba. To avoid the steep ascents in the Kasba Quarter we take the tramway (No. 6, p. 219) to the Prison Civile, glance at the Mohammedan Cemetery and the Kasba Barracks, and then descend from the Boul. de la Victoire by one or other of the streets (very slippery in wet weather) between the Rue de la Kasba (Pl. C, 2) and Boul. Gambetta (Pl. B, C, 3). It should be noted that all the ascending streets lead to the Boulevard de la Victoire, and the descending streets to Rue Randon or Rue Marengo. Ladies in particular may sometimes gain admission to one of the better Moorish houses (comp. p. xxvi), where they should not omit to see the view from the roof. A walk through the Kasba quarter by moonlight is delightful, but safe only for a considerable party. The *=Kasba Quarter= (Pl. B, C, 2, 3), the almost unaltered main portion of old Algiers, bounded by the Rue Randon, Rue Marengo, and Boul. de la Victoire, lies on the hill-side below the _Kasba_, the old castle and afterwards the residence of the Turkish rulers, and still presents a highly attractive picture of Oriental life, though partly inhabited by Maltese and Spaniards as well as by Mohammedans of various races and creeds (p. 171). A few streets only, with small mosques, coffee-houses, and shops, show signs of life in the daytime, and that chiefly on Fridays and Sundays. Most of the streets, however, often only 6–7 ft. wide, with their jutting upper stories and balconies supported by brackets of beams, and the numerous blind alleys and sombre vaulted passages are shrouded in silence, while their bare, almost windowless walls and their closed doors, marked with the sign of the warning hand (p. 81), enhance their impenetrable mystery. The chief business street of the Kasba is the RUE RANDON (Pl. C, 2, 3; comp. p. 226), especially the S. part of it with its shops, between the Marché de la Lyre (p. 226) and the SYNAGOGUE (Pl. 24, C 2; adm., see p. 220), a building with a huge dome and three women’s galleries. The Rue de la Girafe and Rue Caton, the last two side-streets before the Synagogue, ascend to the RUE KLÉBER (Pl. C, 2), where, at the crossing of the Rue d’Anfreville and Rue du Palmier, opposite an Arabian coffee-house, rises the small _Mosque of Sidi Mohammed ech-Chériff_ (Pl. 17; C, 2). The Rue d’Anfreville leads to the left to the long RUE DE LA PORTE-NEUVE (Pl. C, 2, 3), a street starting from the Rue de la Lyre (p. 226). A little way down we may visit its side-streets, Rue des Dattes and Rue Médée, and then return by the Rue de la Mer Rouge to the upper part of the Rue Kléber. We may next follow the Rue du Palmier (see above) and the Rue Annibal, or its side-street Rue Tombouctou, to the long and steep RUE DE LA KASBA (Pl. C, 2), which ascends in steps from the Rue Bab el-Oued (p. 224) to the Kasba barracks. The small square at the top of the Rue de la Kasba, adjoining the BOULEVARD DE LA VICTOIRE (Pl. B, C, 2), is a resort of jugglers and story-tellers, with their admiring audience. Passing the _Prison Civile_ (Pl. B, C, 2; on the right), and crossing the moat, we may now visit the Mohammedan _Cimetière d’el-Kettar_ (Pl. B, 2), prettily situated on the slope above the _Frais-Vallon_ (p. 234). The =Kasba= (Pl. B, 2; 427 ft.), originally an octagonal pile of buildings, surrounded by large gardens, was erected by Horuk Barbarossa in 1516, but was afterwards much altered. In 1816–30 it was the residence of the deys (comp. p. 221), and now serves as the Zouave barracks. The large two-storied quadrangle in the Mauro-Turkish style is a relic of the original building. The old mosque is now used as a storehouse. Adm., see p. 220. The road to El-Biar (p. 234) leads through the Kasba and then traverses the old _Quartier des Tagarins_ (comp. p. 221), which extended to the Porte du Sahel (Pl. B, 3). From the Prison Civile the steep BOULEVARD VALÉE (Pl. C, 2; p. 222) leads back to the town, the lower part commanding a superb *View of Algiers and its bay. This boulevard joins the RUE MARENGO, opposite the MEDERSA (Pl. C, 2; adm., see p. 220), opened in 1904, one of the three recently founded Mohammedan colleges of Algeria, a building in an appropriate neo-Moorish style. No. 46, nearly opposite, is the pretty little Medersa of the Turkish period. The *=Mosque of Sidi Abderrahmân= (Pl. 18, C 2; adm., see p. 220), built in 1696 and dedicated to the learned marabout Sidi Abderrahmân et-Tsalbi (1387–1468), the chief saint of the Tsaliba (p. 221), has no attraction beyond its elegant minaret, adorned with coloured tiles; but its situation near the Jardin Marengo (p. 224), and the charming view it commands, are most impressive. The kubba of the saint is bedecked, as is usual in the case of such tombs, with flags, ostrich-eggs, and other offerings. The small burial-grounds attached are relics of the chief Mohammedan cemetery (p. 224). c. Mustapha-Supérieur and Environs. The narrow coast-plain, here called _Plaine de Mustapha_, is the somewhat abrupt margin of the _Sahel_, to the S. of the old town, on which lie the _Quartier d’Isly_, _Télemly_, and _Mustapha-Supérieur_, where the white villas dating from the Turkish period, with their superb gardens and luxuriant orchards, are occupied chiefly by English and American residents. This is the favourite promenade of foreign visitors. Tramways Nos. 1, 2, and 3, see pp. 218, 219. To avoid ascents the traveller had better begin his walk at the terminus of line No. 2 or No. 3. The main street of *=Mustapha-Supérieur= is the RUE MICHELET (Pl. B, A, 5–8), a street nearly 2½ M. long, in line with the Rue d’Isly. The first third of it is uninteresting. It passes the former _Académie_ (Pl. B, 5), situated on a high terrace below the Quartier d’Isly, which was converted into a university in 1909 (1442 students). Farther on the road leads through the suburb of _Agha-Supérieur_ to the (½ M.) so-called _Plateau Saulière_ (Pl. B, 6, 7; tramway-terminus, Station Sanitaire; p. 218). The upper Rue Michelet, which, in spite of its steep hills, is the most fashionable drive in Algiers, ascends, partly in windings, past the hotels (p. 217), a number of handsome villas, and several charming points of view, to the top of the Sahel. Beyond the _Scottish Church_ (p. 220) at the first sharp bend in the road, rises, behind the view-terrace of the _Museum Garden_, the— *=Museum= (_Musée National des Antiquités Algériennes_; Pl. A, 6, 7), opened in 1897, containing the finest collection of the kind in Algeria. Adm., see p. 220. Catalogue rather old (1899). Director, M. Stéphane Gsell. The GARDEN contains a dolmen (of the Beni-Messous) from Guyotville (p. 237), Roman tombstones, vases, etc. In the VESTIBULE are views of Old Algiers, from the 17th cent. onwards. Over the inner door is an early-Christian mosaic from Rusguniæ (p. 248) representing Christ as the Good Shepherd.—The COURT contains modern views of Algiers and Arabic, Jewish, and Turkish inscriptions. In the centre is a Roman mosaic from Sila, representing Scylla (p. 155) and marine deities.—On the right is— ROOM I. The cases in the middle and most of the wall-presses contain prehistoric antiquities from the provinces of Algeria and Oran and from the Sahara, including the Flamand collection (1889–90). Along the walls are ranged casts and copies of the graffiti or rock-drawings of Tiout (p. 202), Moghrar-Tahtàni (p. 203), etc.; Libyan (early Berber) tomb-stelæ; on the end-wall to the right, a warrior on horseback, from Abizar in Great Kabylia; two cases with relics from Phœnician tombs at Gouraya (some of them imported from Greece); also Punic tomb-stelæ, etc.—In the centre are a fine mosaic from Aïn-Babouch and models of the mausoleum of Le Khroub (p. 273), of the so-called Tombeau de la Chrétienne (p. 238), and of the Medracen (p. 274).—We now pass through R. IV into— ROOM II. In the centre are antique marbles: *Torso of a Venus (in the style of the Capitoline Venus), draped female *Statue (replica of a work of the age of Phidias; the head added later), colossal statue of Poseidon (after a Greek original of the 4th cent.), torso of Bacchus, Satyr and Hermaphrodite (after a group of the Hellenistic period; a torso), two elegant decorative pillars, all of these coming from the so-called museum of king Juba at Cherchell (p. 244); then a colossal bust of Minerva from Khamissa; bronze *Figure of a boy with an eagle, from Lambèse. By the wall next the court is a fragment of a sarcophagus-relief, Warrior with wounded Amazon (Achilles and Penthesilea?). By the back-wall are casts of the chief antiques of Cherchell, marble busts, including Jupiter Serapis and a god of the lower regions, both from Carthage. The wall-cabinets contain Greek and Etruscan vases and fragments of Roman sculptures and inscriptions. Around are mosaics: Boar and panther hunt from Orléansville; fragment of a representation of the Four Seasons, from Lambèse; Europa with the bull, Jupiter and Antiope, Oceanus and Nereids. In the centre is a relief-plan of Timgad (p. 289).—We next pass through R. V into— ROOM III. Among the bronzes in the first case are a mask (3rd cent. B. C.) from El-Grimidi; a statuette of Venus untying her sandal, from Cherchell; adjacent, an early-Christian bronze lamp (5th cent.). Then come cases with Greek, Roman, and Mauretanian coins, lamps, etc. The case by the wall next the court contains early-Christian reliquaries (in terracotta). Along the walls are ranged Roman and early-Christian inscriptions, reliefs, and architectural fragments; by the entrance-wall is the tombstone of a bishop from Mouzaïaville (5th cent.); by the end-wall Roman busts (incl. Hadrian); a slab bearing regulations as to rights of using water, from Lamasba (Mérouana); early-Christian sarcophagus from Dellys (4th cent.). The corner-rooms (IV and V) contain the ORIENTAL SECTION (Art of Islam), which has received considerable additions and for which five new rooms are being prepared. ROOM IV. Berber and early Moorish works of art. In the ante-room Berber vases, tissues, and wood-carving from Great Kabylia, etc., incl. an ancient Kabylian cradle. In the central case are Berber trinkets, chiefly from Great Kabylia (Dra el-Mizan; work of the Beni-Yenni), and Tunisian vases. Cases with Algerian bronzes and curiosities from Kalâa des Beni-Hammad (p. 270; stucco-work, fragments of vases). Cases and two wall-presses containing superb Moroccan embroidery (some showing Spanish-Moorish influence), mostly from the region of Fez. A large majolica vase from Palma (Majorca). Also, on the walls, *Carpets from the district of Jebel Amour, from Kalâa (p. 207), Kairwan, Rabât, and of the tribe of the Rirha (near Sétif). ROOM V, devoted mainly to the Mauro-Turkish art of the barbaresques. At the entrance is a marble portal of Italian workmanship. Stands with weapons (some of them in the Louis XVI. style), trinkets, richly embroidered slippers, pistol-cases, cartridge-belts, etc., and also gorgeous feminine apparel. On a stand, with gold embroidery from mosques and saints’ tombs, is placed the cast of the so-called Gerónimo (p. 225). By the walls are two superb saddles, copper vessels, furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl, etc.; presses with Algerian *Embroidery (curtains of ladies’ chambers, bath-veils, etc.). By the back-wall, Jewesses’ costumes from Constantine. In the gallery are Smyrna carpets. In the Rue Michelet, a few paces farther, beyond the Chemin du Télemly (see below), is a small round space with a marble _Statue of Mac Mahon_ (1808–93; governor of Algeria in 1864–70). Opposite, to the left, is the— _Palais d’Eté du Gouverneur_ (Pl. A, 7), a fine neo-Moorish building with beautiful grounds. Adm., see p. 220. Farther on we cross the Chemin de Gascogne or Chemin Romain, the shortest route from Mustapha-Inférieur (p. 232) to the Colonne Voirol (see below). Near the lower half of that road is the _Orphelinat St. Vincent-de-Paul_ (Pl. A, 7), on the site of a villa of Mustapha Pasha (p. 225), to whom this quarter owes its name. Following the Rue Michelet farther to the S. we pass, on the right, the new _English Church_ (p. 220), in the Moorish style. The cost of building, which amounted to 7000_l._, was defrayed by the French Government in compensation for the site of the former English church which was required for the new post-office (p. 226). Beyond the bifurcation of Boul. Bru (p. 231) the Rue Michelet takes a sharp turn to the N.W. and leads along the margin of the so-called _Bois de Boulogne_ (Pl. A, 8, 9), a sparse pine-wood, to the _Colonne Voirol_ (689 ft.; tramway-terminus, see pp. 218, 219), a monument in memory of General Voirol. * * * * * One of the finest and easiest walks at Mustapha-Supérieur is the *=Chemin du Télemly= (Pl. A, B, 6–4), which diverges to the right from the Rue Michelet just beyond the Museum garden (p. 228) and leads along the slope of the Sahel, halfway up, passing through several verdant ravines (_Ravin des Sept-Sources_, etc.), to the (1¾ M.) _Quartier d’Isly_ (Pl. B, 4, 5), a charming, loftily-situated villa-quarter. This road affords several splendid views of the bay. From the Quartier d’Isly we may either descend by the Rue Edouard-Cat and Avenue Pasteur to the lower Rue Michelet and the Rue d’Isly (p. 226), or we may follow the main road as far as the town-wall, between the Boul. Laferrière (p. 226) and the Porte du Sahel (p. 233). Side-roads connect the Chemin du Télemly with the _Campagne Bellevue_ (see below) on one side, and with _St. Raphaël_ (p. 234) on the other. As the road, mostly bordered with hedges, which leads from the Colonne Voirol (p. 230) to (1¼ M.) _El-Biar_ (p. 234), passing the _Campagne Bellevue_ (794 ft.) halfway, is monotonous, the =Chemin de Maclay=, leading from the Colonne Voirol to (1¾ M.) _Château-Neuf_ (p. 234), is far preferable. It passes through the upper valley of the _Oued Knis_ (see below), verdant with fruit-trees, eucalypti, and pines, runs to the N.W. to the (½ M.) _Café d’Hydra_, and at the (½ M.) _Café-Restaurant du Retour de la Chasse_ joins the highroad coming from Blida. A little way to the S.W. of the Colonne Voirol, on the road from Algiers to Douéra and Boufarik (p. 216), is the beautiful _Château d’Hydra_, once a country-seat of the Deys, but now private property. From the Colonne Voirol we may now walk through the _Bois de Boulogne_ (p. 230), or follow the road to the S.E. in the valley of the _Oued Knis_, past the sanatorium of Dr. Verhaeren and the _Villa des Grottes_ (curious rock sculptures, among others the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise), to (1 M.) the poor agricultural village of =Birmandreis= (354 ft.; Café-Restaur. des Platanes). From Birmandreis we have the choice of two routes. We may walk through the _Ravin de la Femme Sauvage_ (to the N.E. and E.), as the cool and shady lower Oued Knis valley is popularly called, to (1¾ M.) the village of _Le Ruisseau_ (tramway No. 4, p. 219), ½ M. beyond the Jardin d’Essai (p. 232). Or we may take the road (to the S.E. and E.), through orchards and market-gardens, and across a fine open hill, to the (1¼ M.) poor village of _Vieux-Kouba_ and (½ M.) _Kouba_ (p. 233). From the Rue Michelet the =Boulevard Bru= (Pl. A-C, 8, 9; p. 230; tramway No. 3, see p. 219) leads between villas, affording near the farther end a beautiful view of Algiers, to (¾ M.) the _Cimetière de Mustapha_ (Pl. C, 9), incorporating the _English Cemetery_. Here at the tramway-terminus the Boul. Bru joins the Chemin de Fontaine-Bleue, a road coming up from Mustapha-Inférieur (p. 232). We follow the latter road straight on to its junction with the Chemin Shakespeare or des Crêtes, beyond which, in the same direction, the Rue Laurent-Pichat brings us to the (¼ M.) _Villa Sesini_ (Pl. D, 9), superbly situated above Belcourt (p. 232). Straight on we follow the Rue de Béhagle, a narrow field-road diverging from the Rue Laurent-Pichat; this road after 5 min. leads to the left, through a small oak-copse and past the _Fort des Arcades_ (Pl. D, 9), to the verge of the plateau (*Bench with view) and then, taking the name of Chemin des Arcades, goes on to the hill-garden of the _Jardin d’Essai_ (see p. 232). d. The S.E. Suburbs. The only attractions here are the Mohammedan Cemetery at Belcourt (near the Marabout station of tramway No. 4; p. 219) and the Jardin d’Essai. It is best to go to the latter by the inner line, just mentioned, and to return by No. 5, the outer line. The suburbs of _Agha-Inférieur_, with its railway-station (p. 217) and the new Arrière-Port (p. 223), _Mustapha-Inférieur_, _Belcourt_, and _Le Hamma_, together with the adjacent little town of _Hussein-Dey_, are the industrial quarters of Algiers. Along the coast, beyond Boul. Laferrière (p. 226), run the Rue Baudin (Pl. C, 5), in line with the Rue de Constantine (p. 226), and the RUE SADI-CARNOT (Pl. B-E, 5–8), over 2½ M. long, from which, at the N.E. angle of the _Champ de Manœuvres_ (Pl. C, 7; also a race-course), diverges the RUE DE LYON (Pl. B-E, 7–9), 2 M. in length, the route of the inner tramway-line (No. 4). The unattractive Rue de Lyon leads to (about ¾ M.) the =Cimetière Musulman de Belcourt= (Pl. D, 9), the finest Mohammedan burial-ground in Algiers, containing a number of handsome monuments and the picturesque _Kubba_ of Sidi Abderrahmân Bu-Kobrin (d. 1793), a famous Algerian saint, a native of Great Kabylia. Adm., see p. 220. As a rule only the side-entrance in the Rue Colonel-Combes is open. The so-called _Grotte de Cervantes_ (Pl. D, 9), with a bust and memorial tablet of the famous Spanish author, who lived in captivity at Algiers in 1575–80, is said to have been his hiding-place when attempting to escape. Ascending a road from the end of the Rue Col. Combes beyond the cemetery, we follow a (5 min.) path to the left, and turning to the left again, somewhat downhill, we reach the (9 min.) grotto. The Rue de Lyon next leads through the suburb of _Le Hamma_ to the (½ M.) *=Jardin d’Essai= (Pl. E, 9; adm., see p. 220), or _Jardin du Hamma_, the botanic garden of Algiers and at the same time a nursery-garden and public promenade. Founded by government in 1832 and frequently extended, it became the property of the Compagnie Algérienne (p. 219) in 1878. In wealth of vegetation it vies with the botanic gardens of Palermo and Lisbon, which, however, have been more advantageously laid out. It consists of two sections: a hill-garden on the verge of the Sahel plateau and the main garden in the once marshy, but now extremely fertile coast-plain. Opposite the S. ENTRANCE of the main garden, in the Rue de Lyon, is the dilapidated Mauro-Turkish _Fontaine du Hamma_ (16th cent.). From this point, near the small _Hôt.-Restaurant du Château Rouge_, the Chemin des Arcades (p. 231) ascends to the =Hill Garden=, a wooded park, with tall araucarias, huge eucalypti, and other trees. Through the =Main Garden= a magnificent avenue of planes runs from the chief entrance towards the sea. Halfway is a circular space with a café. The W. half of the garden, to the left of the avenue, is occupied by the less interesting nursery-garden. [Illustration: BAIE D’ ALGER] [Illustration: BAIE D’ ALGER] The E. half of the garden is intersected by shady walks at right angles to each other. Parallel with the main avenue are the narrower dragon-tree and palm avenue and the magnolia and fig-tree avenue. The chief cross-walks, parallel with the Rue de Lyon, are the date-palm, the bamboo, and the dwarf-palm and rose avenues. From the S. entrance we turn at once to the right into the date-palm avenue, where, from the steps opposite the offices (‘administration’), we have a charming view of the dragon-tree and palm avenue. Then, passing the magnolia and fig-tree avenue, we go straight to the S. angle of the garden, where we are struck with the profusion of tropical plants, outstanding among which are the huge Ficus nitida with its exposed roots and a group of yuccas (the rare Yucca draconis and other palm-lilies). A little lower down, near the artificial island with its aquatic plants, are a group of *Strelitzias and (beyond a tall Livistona australis) a beautiful little palm-grove. We next follow the *Bamboo walk, and from it turn to the right into the *Dragon-tree (p. 30) and palm avenue, which leads towards the sea. Farther on, to the left, beyond the dwarf-palm (Chamærops excelsa) and rose avenue, is the small _Zoologie_ (adm., see p. 220), with a few specimens of Algerian animals. Opposite the N. ENTRANCE, in the Rue Sadi-Carnot, at the station of the outer tramway-line, rises a group of date-palms, where the cafés _Oasis des Palmiers_ and _Closerie des Palmiers_ are much frequented by the citizens in the afternoon (déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.). Beyond the railway line, from the shore near the sea-baths (p. 219; restaur.), we obtain a delightful *View of Algiers. When the wind is to the N. or N.W. the breakers here are grander than at the Rampe de l’Amirauté (p. 223). The Rue Sadi-Carnot ends at the _Oued Knis_ (p. 231), on the outskirts of the small town of =Hussein-Dey= (Hôt. de la Gare; railway and tramway station; see pp. 217, 247), where the _Tobacco Factory_ has swallowed up the villa of the last deys of Algeria. The inhabitants (5700) are mostly Spaniards from the Balearic Islands (‘Mahonnais’), who grow early vegetables. From Hussein-Dey to _Maison-Carrée_, see p. 247. From the village of _Le Ruisseau_ (p. 231), at the end of the Rue de Lyon and at the mouth of the Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, a road ascends in windings to the (1¼ M.) village of =Kouba= (427 ft.; tramway No. 4, see p. 219), in a charming, well-wooded site. At the entrance to the village, on the site of a kubba, stands a _Church_ with a long flight of steps. The flat roof of the _Grand Séminaire_, a training-college for priests founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346; adm. by leave of the Superior), commands an extensive *Panorama of the Mitidja, the Atlas of Blida, and the Jurjura range. From Kouba vià _Vieux-Kouba_ to _Birmandreis_, see p. 231. e. El-Biar and Bouzaréah. TRAMWAY (No. 6, p. 219) to El-Biar and Château-Neuf. From Château-Neuf diligence several times daily to Chéraga and six times daily to Bouzaréah (notices are posted in the Place du Gouvernement, at the corner of Rue Bab-Azoun). A favourite circular trip for one day (motor-cars and carriages, see p. 218) embraces El-Biar, Château-Neuf, Chéraga, Staouéli-Trappe, Sidi-Ferruch (p. 237), Guyotville (p. 237), Pointe-Pescade (p. 237), St. Eugène (p. 236), and Algiers. A popular drive for half-a-day includes Bouzaréah, Forêt de Baïnem, Bains Romains (p. 237), Pointe Pescade, and Algiers. (1). The road to EL-BIAR leads from the old town through the Kasba and the _Porte du Sahel_ (Pl. B, 3; comp. p. 228). Walkers may note two possible digressions. To the left, just outside the gate, a path descends in 10 min. to _Boul. Laferrière_ (p. 226). To the right, 2 min. farther, diverges the Chemin de Fontaine-Fraîche (Pl. A, 3, 4), the road to (10 min.) the charmingly situated village of _Birtraria_, whence one may either ascend to the S.W. in 20 min. to _El-Biar_ (see below), or walk to the N.E. through the pretty _Frais-Vallon_ and then descend the Avenue du Frais-Vallon (Pl. A, B, 2, 1), on the right bank of the _Oued M’Kacel_, to (½ hr.) the _Quartier Bab el-Oued_ (see below). The highroad passes near the foot of the _Fort l’Empereur_ (Pl. A, 4; 689 ft.), almost hidden by trees. This was the site of the camp of Charles V. (p. 221), and on it was built the _Mulaï Hassan Fort_ (1545), which was partly blown up by its Turkish defenders when bombarded by the French in 1830. The road then winds up to the tramway station of _St. Raphaël_ (788 ft.), whence a charming road branches off to (1¼ M.) _Mustapha-Supérieur_ (to the left, and after 3 min. to the left again, joining the _Chemin du Télemly_ close to the Hôt. Continental). The large village of =El-Biar= (784 ft.), 2 M. to the S.W. of the Porte du Sahel, and the village of _Château-Neuf_ (*Hôt.-Restaur. Mallard, pens. from 6 fr.; a favourite Sunday afternoon resort), lying on the monotonous plateau ½ M. beyond El-Biar, uninteresting in themselves, are the starting-points of the roads to the _Colonne Voirol_ and to _Bouzaréah_ (p. 235). A road leads from Château-Neuf to (5½ M. from the Porte du Sahel) _Chéraga_ (650 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, humble), a pleasant village among fruit-trees, and (3 M.) _Staouéli-Trappe_ (p. 237), situated on a shelf-like terrace above the coast, where the French first encountered the troops of the dey in 1830. The old Trappist monastery founded here in 1843 was purchased in 1904 by the Swiss Consul Borgeaud, who has converted the abbey-lands of about 3000 acres into a model farm (no admittance). The burial-ground contains the tomb of Col. Marengo (1787–1862). From Staouéli-Trappe a road descends to the N.W. to (1 M.) _Staouéli_ (p. 237). The highroad joins the Castiglione road at (11 M.) _Sidi-Ferruch_ (p. 237), a station on the steam-tramway. (2). TO BOUZARÉAH a new road (2½ M.) leads to the N.W. from _El-Biar_ (see above), through the pretty valley of the _Oued bel-Elzar_, one of the feeders of the Oued M’Kacel (see above), while the old road (2 M.) leads to it from _Château-Neuf_ (see above), crossing an uninteresting plateau and, about ½ M. short of Bouzaréah, passing the _Ecole Normale Primaire_. A more interesting route to (5 M.) Bouzaréah is from the _Quartier Bab el-Oued_ (Pl. B, 1), formerly the N.W. suburb of Algiers, inhabited chiefly by Spaniards. From the Boul. du Général-Farre or Boul. Militaire Nord (Pl. C, 1; p. 222) we follow the Avenue de la Bouzaréah (Pl. C, B, 1) and the Avenue Beau-Fraisier, in the old suburb of _Cité Bugeaud_, to the Pont du Beau-Fraisier crossing the Oued M’Kacel. We thence ascend the fine Chemin des Carrières, passing near the blue-limestone quarries on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, then through a side-valley of the Frais-Vallon (p. 234), with its luxuriant vegetation, and lastly mount in windings past the _Hospice des Vieillards_. The village of =Bouzaréah= (1230 ft.; Hôt. de France, humble; pop. 2500), in an open site on the crest of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (1335 ft.), the culminating point of the Sahel, is a favourite goal for excursionists in summer. A road leads to the N.E. from the village, past the _Fort de la Bouzaréah_, on the left, and the _Christian Cemetery_, on the right, to (¾ M.) the _Observatoire d’Alger_ (1148 ft.). The roof of the observatory affords a fine view of the Bay of Algiers and of the hills of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Bengut (p. 254). From the Observatory we may descend either to the E. by the steep Chemin Sidi Ben-Nour, passing the fort of that name, to the _Avenue des Consulats_ (see below), or to the N. by a steep and stony path to the _Vallée des Consuls_ (p. 236). A road leads to the N.W. from Bouzaréah in ¼ hr. to the poor huts of the _Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah_, on the slope of a flat hill (1178 ft.), overgrown with cacti and dwarf-palms, where we have a splendid *View of the forest of Baïnem, Cape Caxine (p. 237), the S.W. chain of the Sahel, with the ‘Tombeau de la Chrétienne’ (p. 238), and Jebel Chenoua (p. 242), as also of the Blida Atlas with the deep incision of the Chiffa Ravine (p. 215). From the Arab village the road descends to the W. to the (1¼ M.) =Forêt de Baïnem=, the largest wood (1250 acres) near Algiers. We follow the ‘Route Forestière Wendling’, high on the slope of the Sahel, with a fine view of the coast between Pointe Pescade (p. 237) and Cape Caxine, at first through underwood, richly carpeted with flowers in spring. We then pass through the remains of a pine-forest to the (1¾ M.) _Rond des Eucalyptus_, a bifurcation in a small eucalyptus grove (straight on is the Route Forestière Mignerot leading to Guyotville, 3¼ M.; p. 237). We follow, to the right, the beautiful Route Forestière Combe (2 M.), which descends through groups of cork-trees, pines, and eucalypti, past a ravine, to the _Maison Forestière_, whence it is continued by a eucalyptus and mimosa avenue down to _Villas_ (p. 237), on the Castiglione road, a station on the steam-tramway. f. Notre-Dame d’Afrique and St. Eugène. TRAMWAY (No. 1, p. 218) to the Hôpital du Dey; thence an omnibus every ½ hr. (1–4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; each addit. pers. 30 c.) to the church of Notre-Dame d’Afrique.—TRAMWAY (No. 7, p. 219) to St. Eugène. The terminus ‘Deux-Moulins’ is only a few paces from the station of the steam-tramway to Castiglione (R. 35). The tramway through the Avenue des Consulats ends at the _Hôpital Militaire du Dey_ (Pl. A, B, 1), which, with its gardens, occupies the site of a villa of Hassan Pasha (p. 225). We follow the Boul. de Champagne, and then diverge to the right by the Route de Notre-Dame d’Afrique (½ hr.), a narrow road, shady towards evening, affording splendid *Views of the Bay of Algiers. The large domed church of =Notre-Dame d’Afrique= (443 ft.), a pilgrimage-church for sick persons and mariners, founded by Card. Lavigerie in 1872, rises conspicuously on a spur of the N.E. slope of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), above the Christian and the Jewish burial-grounds (see below). From the terrace in front of the church, where the blessing of the sea by the clergy every Sunday at 3.30 attracts many spectators, we survey the coast as far as the Pointe Pescade (p. 237). Behind the church is the _Hôt. Bompard_. The _Vallée des Consuls_, which has its name from the villas of the European consuls of the Turkish period, a shady and extremely fertile vale above _St. Eugène_ (see below), affords charming walks. A pleasant road leads through it from Notre-Dame d’Afrique, shaded by gnarled old olive-trees. We may thence mount to the _Observatory_ (comp. p. 235), or else descend in 20 min. to St. Eugène; but the descent viâ _Fort Duperré_ to _Deux-Moulins_ (p. 237) is very rough and fatiguing. From the lower end of the Boul. du Général-Farre (p. 234), beyond the still uncompleted _Quartier de l’Esplanade_ (Pl. C, 1), runs the AVENUE MALAKOFF (Pl. C, B, 1), close to the shore and protected against the breakers by a high limestone wall, leading to the _Fort des Anglais_, an old Turkish fort on a rocky headland. Opposite, to the left, on the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah, lie the _Christian Cemetery_ and the interesting _Jewish Cemetery_ of Algiers. Beyond the cemeteries we come to the little town of =St. Eugène= (Hôt.-Restaur, du Château-Vert, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; Restaur. Deux-Moulins; pop. 4800, incl. 500 Jews), with several factories and pretty villas. The tramway-terminus, _Deux-Moulins_, at the N.W. end of the town, is the starting-point for walks to the _Pointe Pescade_ (p. 237), the _Forêt de Baïnem_ (p. 235), and other places. 35. From Algiers to Tipaza and Cherchell. a. Viâ Castiglione. STEAM TRAMWAY (p. 219) from the station in the Quartier Bab el-Oued (Pl. B, 1 ; in connection with the electric tramway from Rue Waisse, Pl. C, 4) to (28½ M.) _Castiglione_; four trains daily in 2¾–3½ hrs. (fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 30 c.).—DILIGENCE from Castiglione three times daily to (5 M.) _Bérard_ and twice daily viâ (43½ M.) _Tipaza_ to (60½ M.) _Cherchell_. In order to visit the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_ we have to take a private vehicle (costing, from Castiglione to Tipaza, with a stay of 2–3 hours at the Ferme Seuillet or the Ferme du Rocher-Plat, about 12–15 fr.). Interesting ROUND OF THREE DAYS: 1st. By early train to Castiglione; drive (taking provisions) to Ferme Seuillet (walk to Tombeau de la Chrétienne) and to Tipaza (see pp. 238, 239); there visit the E. hill, sending carr. on to the hotel.—2nd. Visit lighthouse and W. hill of Tipaza early; drive to Cherchell about noon (see pp. 242, 243).—3rd. Drive about noon to Marengo (see pp. 244, 243; lunch); take afternoon train to Blida, and evening train thence to Algiers.—Attractive but more costly, FOUR DAYS’ ROUND: 1st. By early train to Blida; by midday or evening train to Bou-Medfa; by omnibus to Hammam Rhira (p. 212).—2nd. By carr. from hotel to (16 M.) Marengo, and thence by steam-tramway (see pp. 243, 244) or by carr. to Cherchell.—3rd. Drive about noon to Tipaza (see pp. 243, 242).—4th. Tombeau de la Chrétienne; towards evening by steam-tramway from Castiglione back to Algiers.—Tours by MOTOR CAR, comp. p. 173. From Algiers to (3¾ M.) _Deux-Moulins_ (_St. Eugène_), see pp. 235, 236. Here begins the finest part of the coast-road, which will repay walkers as far as Cape Caxine or Guyotville. The spurs of _Mont Bouzaréah_ (p. 235), furrowed by many little ravines, come close down to the sea. The coast, undermined at places by the surf, presents a picturesque series of small headlands, bold cliffs, and rocky islets. The most striking spot is the (5 M.) *=Pointe Pescade= (Restaurant), a headland crowned with the mouldering walls of a Turkish fort (1671), overlooking the blue sea and the coast as far as Cape Matifou and beyond. By road and railway we next come to the (5½ M.) _Bains Romains_ (Hôt.-Restaur.) and the _Hôt. de la Fontaine Romaine_, both sea-bathing places in summer, to (7 M.) _Villas_, lying below the _Forêt de Baïnem_ (p. 235), and to (8 M.) _Cape Caxine_, on the gneiss rocks of which rises a _Lighthouse_ (210 ft.; visible 24 M. round). Beyond the precipitous _Grand Rocher_ lies (9½ M.) _St. Cloud-sur-Mer_, a sea-bathing place. The coast now grows flatter. 10 M. =Guyotville= (82 ft.; Hôt. des Touristes, humble), a village of 3500 inhab., with a colony of Italian peasants, who cultivate early vegetables and grapes on the sandy soil, protected from the sea-winds by plantations of Spanish reeds (Arundo donax) and in spring by narrow fields of rye. On the plateau to the S. of the village, in the territory of the tribe of _Beni-Messous_, a number of dolmens (see pp. 324, 229) still exist. From Guyotville to the _Forêt de Baïnem_, see p. 235. Near the low headland of _Râs Acrata_ the road reaches the broad *_Bay of Castiglione_, much exposed to N.W. gales, which extends in a slight curve to _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242), a hill we sighted soon after leaving Guyotville. We have a view also of the pretty adjoining bay of Sidi-Ferruch. To the right, near (12½ M.) _Les Dunes_, part of the sand-hills is cultivated. 13 M. _La Trappe_ and (14½ M.) _Staouéli_ (Hôt. Malakoff, quite good) are stations for _Staouéli-Trappe_ (p. 234). From Staouéli and from the (15½ M.) _Station Sidi-Ferruch_ roads lead to the N.W. (one 2¼, the other 2 M.) to the small sea-bathing village of =Sidi-Ferruch= (49 ft.; Hôt. de la Plage, plain), at the end of a sandy tongue of land formed by the surf and by the deposits of the Oued Mazafran (p. 238). It attracts also jackal-hunters and anglers from Algiers in winter. An inscription at the entrance to the _Fort_ recalls the landing of French troops here in 1830 (comp. p. 234). A little to the N.W. are the scanty remains of an _Early Christian Church_, with baptistery, etc. As we proceed, the Atlas of Blida (p. 169) is visible for a time. 18 M. _Zéralda_ (62 ft.; Hôt. de Zéralda), an agricultural village, lies in a broad coast-plain, the lowest of four old beach-terraces which mount to the N.E. in gigantic steps to Staouéli-Trappe. The road now leads between low sand-hills, with pines and underwood, to the _Oued Mazafran_ (called in its upper course Oued Chiffa, p. 213), through whose valley, deeply furrowing the Sahel, we have another glimpse of the Atlas of Blida. 22 M. _Mazafran_, on the left bank of the stream, is the junction of a branch-line to (6¼ M.) the little town of _Koléa_ (460 ft.; Hôt. de France; Hôt. du Commerce), founded by Andalusian Moors in 1550, finely situated on the S. slope of the Sahel, and noted for its fruit-culture. The Jardin des Zouaves deserves a visit. The next stations are for the use of villages situated above the line, on the N. margin of the Sahel plateau. 23½ M. _Douaouda-les-Bains_, 25½ M. _Fouka-Marine_, two small sea-bathing places. In the distance, on the crest of the Sahel, appears the Tombeau de la Chrétienne, resembling a haystack. 28½ M. =Castiglione= (128 ft.; Hôt. du Tapis-Vert, good; Hôt. de Paris; Hôt. de l’Oasis, humble) is a large village of 2000 inhab., on the vine-clad slope of the Sahel. Below are the unpretending sea-baths, where lodgings may be procured. The HIGH ROAD TO (43½ M.) TIPAZA, affording at first a beautiful view of the coast, of Jebel Chenoua, and the hills of the Dahra (p. 209) beyond Marengo, leads viâ the fishing-villages of (30 M.) _Chiffalo_ (founded by Sicilian fishermen from Cefalù) and (31 M.) _Bou-Haroun_, whose inhabitants are engaged in the anchovy and sardine fishery, to (33½ M.) _Bérard_ (66 ft.; Café-Hôt. Bérard, poor), a banana-growing village. 36 M. _Ferme Seuillet_ (102 ft.), a large farm, is the starting-point for the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_. The rough road to the tomb (2½ M.) ascends in windings (partly avoided, after 10 min., by a short-cut to the left), at first through underwood, and then to the S.W. through vineyards. The so-called *=Tombeau de la Chrétienne= (856 ft.; Arabic _Kbûr er-Rûmia_), the largest tomb in the Atlas regions and one of the most conspicuous of sailors’ landmarks on the whole coast of Algeria, stands on one of the highest points of the S.W. range of the Sahel. It was probably erected by Juba II. (p. 244), in imitation of the Medracen (p. 274), as a tomb for his family. The building consists of a low square pedestal, of about 70 yds. each way, and a circular substructure relieved by sixty Ionic half-columns and four blind portals, crowned with a pyramid rising in steps, of which 33 still exist. The present name is derived from the cruciform mouldings of the door-panels. The monument, originally 130 ft. in height, but now 108 ft. only, has suffered severely from the vandalism of native treasure-hunters, who bored two tunnels into it, and from bombardment by two deys of Algiers, bent on the same quest. Further damage was done by earthquakes in 1825 and 1867, and the masonry also has been loosened by the removal of its leaden cramps. The building is surrounded by dense underwood and is partly overgrown by it on the N. side. Key and candles at the keeper’s hut on the N.E. side (fee 50 c.). The ENTRANCE is under the blind portal on the E. side, where the original vestibule has almost disappeared. A short passage leads to the antechamber; in the wall on the right, near two rude reliefs (lion and lioness), is a passage, once closed by stone slabs, with a flight of seven steps. Beyond this is a winding gallery, about 165 yds. long, probably destined for funeral processions, with small wall-niches for lamps. The gallery leads to the two inner chambers, an ante-room, and the larger chamber, with three wall-niches, in the centre of the monument, probably the tomb of the kings, but now quite empty. The ASCENT of the monument, from the S. side, rather a toilsome climb, conveys a still more striking idea of its grandeur than the long groping in the inside. The *Panorama from the top embraces the coast, from Sidi-Ferruch to Jebel Chenoua; the hills of the Dahra, with Jebel Zaccar Chergui (p. 212) to the S.W.; the broad Mitidja plain to the S.; and the Atlas of Blida with the ravine of the Chiffa. We return to the Ferme Seuillet by the same route, or descend to the N.W. by the steep road to (37½ M.) the _Ferme du Rocher-Plat_ (85 ft.). The highroad next passes the (42 M.) _Ferme Demonchy_, intersects a beautiful eucalyptus-grove, and passes the E. hill of Tipaza (p. 242). In approaching Tipaza we obtain a charming view of its little bay and the lighthouse. 43½ M. =Tipaza.=—HOTEL. _Hôtel du Rivage_, prettily situated at the S. base of the lighthouse hill, with a small garden, R. 2½, B. ½, déj. or D. 2½–3, pens. 7 fr. _Tipaza_, a small seaport of 2000 inhab., mostly Mohammedans, founded in 1854, stands on the ruins of _Tipasa_, a place with a Berber name, but originally an ancient Phœnician settlement, and from the time of Emp. Claudius (about 40 A. D.) a Roman colony. Thanks to its advantageous site near the Nador valley, the main outlet in Roman times of the densely-populated W. Mitidja, Tipasa became in the 2nd cent. one of the most prosperous seaports of Mauretania. The most glorious period in its history was at the close of the 4th cent. when Tipasa, famed for its staunch adherence to the Catholic faith, repelled the attacks of Firmus, the Berber prince (p. 244); but after a century of prosperity most of the inhabitants fled to Spain in 484 in order to escape from the persecutions of Hunerich, king of the Vandals. Since its occupation by the Arabs the old town, already much impoverished, has disappeared from the page of history. The site of Tipaza, secluded and peaceful, is strikingly picturesque. The adjoining coast is richly varied, and close by rise the great limestone rocks of Mt. Chenoua. At the same time there are remains of numerous Roman and early-Christian buildings around, all in complete ruin, and partly overgrown with luxuriant vegetation. Ancient Tipasa, originally occupying only the central castle-hill, which now bears the lighthouse (see below), gradually extended over the coast-plain to the S. of the bay, and also along the slopes of the W. and E. hills. The late-Roman _Town Walls_, 2410 yds. in length, are still traceable at places. The busy trade of the port led, probably at an early period, to the construction of a broad _Landing Place_ with substantial quays, the space for which was obtained by the levelling of the rocky terrace on the coast. The Roman _Outer Harbour_, behind the rock-islets near the E. hill, probably served as a place of refuge in stormy weather only. Since the middle ages the coast-line has been much modified by the encroachments of the sea. We begin our walk on the N. side of the village, at the present _Harbour_, which occupies the site of the now submerged Roman landing-place. The huge rock (possibly used as a mausoleum), undermined by the sea, which rises in the middle of the harbour, was left untouched by the Roman engineers. During the construction of the new harbour the remains of a Roman _Cistern_ and underground _Conduits_ were unearthed. From the harbour we walk to the N., round a small bay, to the LIGHTHOUSE HILL (112 ft.), gorgeous with flowers in spring, where a few vestiges of Roman streets, cisterns, and a temple are traceable (see above). At the _Lighthouse_ (phare) we obtain a delightful view. Near it, on the N. margin of the hill, a precipice has been formed by a landslip. The road connecting the highroad with the harbour and the lighthouse hill leads past the Hôtel du Rivage and through the *=Thermæ=, a grand bath-house of the 2nd or 3rd cent., rivalling the W. baths of Cherchell (p. 246). Among the ruins, still 30 ft. high in places, extending into the Jardin Trémaux, the frigidarium on the E. side is still quite recognizable. Near the hotel, to the left, we enter the =Jardin Trémaux= (adm. kindly granted), the garden of a private estate, adorned with antique and early-Christian relics. On the E. side, near the baths, we observe, protected by a roof, a fine late-Roman sarcophagus, bearing nuptial and sacrificial scenes. Near it is an old Christian sarcophagus, with Christ, the Good Shepherd (beardless); on the sides are lions tearing a gazelle to pieces. In the middle of the grounds, to the left of the road, are a few relics of a Roman _Amphitheatre_ (3rd cent.?), which even during the French period has served as a quarry. The road, farther on, passes the =Nymphæum= (on the left), a sumptuous late-Roman fountain (3rd or 4th cent.), 26 yds. in breadth, backed with a semicircular wall. In front of it is a platform 6½ ft. high, once bedecked with Corinthian columns and with statues, over which the water descended into a narrow trough or basin. Immediately behind the fountain is a well-preserved vault, once the _Reservoir_ for the water brought to Tipasa by an underground conduit, 5½ M. long, from the valley of the Nador. A few paces away are the noteworthy ruins of a Roman _Mausoleum_ (1st cent.?). The _Roman Theatre_, at the exit of the gardens, to the right of the park-road, yielded the materials for building the hospital of Marengo. Several tiers of seats are still traceable. From the _W. Gate_, of whose round towers alone a few relics remain, we follow the vestiges of the town-walls to the N. W. to the (5 min.) WEST HILL (about 100 ft.), the _Râs el-Knissa_ (‘church promontory’) of the natives. A few paces to the right of the town-walls, just above the undermined margin of the coast-terrace, some fragments of a wall and two arcades of an aisle mark the site of the =Bishop’s Church= of Tipasa. Erected in the 4th cent., the church was a basilica, 57 yds. by 49 yds., with nave and triple aisles; the nave, 14½ yds. in breadth, was afterwards trisected by the addition of two rows of columns; little remains of the semicircular choir-recess. Of the square _Baptistery_, on the N. side of the church, there remain the round font, with three steps, and fragments of the external walls. An adjoining chamber has a fine mosaic pavement; several other rooms show traces of a heating apparatus. On the left, to the W. of the town-walls, lay the early-Christian _Western Cemetery_, with countless rock-tombs, sarcophagi, and monuments sadly desecrated by herds of cattle. About a hundred paces to the N. of the church, in the rocks rising above the sea, are several _Grottes Funéraires_. Near them is a large round _Mausoleum_, once adorned externally with sixteen half-columns, containing fourteen wall-niches (arcosolia) for coffins and the slab of a table for love-feasts (agapai). About 2 min. to the S. W. is the _Burial Church of Bishop Alexander_, built at the end of the 4th cent., a small basilica with nave and aisles, of irregular shape, of which the foundations only remain. On the E. side is a rectangular altar-niche with nine sarcophagi, containing, as the eulogistic inscription in the nave declares, the remains of ‘the nine righteous men’ (probably the nine predecessors of Alexander). The right aisle contains many sarcophagi and a semicircular table for love-feasts. At the W. end of the nave are a mosaic with fish in seven rows and an inscription in memory of the founder, who was probably buried in the W. apse, added later, and accessible by a narrow portal only. We now return to the harbour, and ascend thence, close to the sea, past the remains of a small _Roman Burial Ground_, to the (10 min.) EAST HILL (115 ft.), outside the town-walls where thousands of graves indicate the great extent of the early-Christian _Eastern Cemetery_. Here, beyond a few peasants’ huts, we reach the best-preserved ruin at Tipasa, the *=Basilica of St. Salsa=, the patron saint of the town. This church, built in the first half of the 4th cent, over the heathen sarcophagus of Fabia Salsa, was a square burial-chapel, about 16 yds. each way, with nave and aisles, but in the 5th or 6th cent. was prolonged westwards into a basilica 33½ yds. long, with a vestibule and with galleries over the aisles. At the same time the remains of the saint were transferred to a Roman sarcophagus, which was placed on a high pedestal in the old nave, now the choir of the enlarged church. The rows of clumsy columns in the nave are a later addition. The walls between the choir-pillars belong to a restoration of the 7th or 8th century. Among the ruins of the walls, still 10–12 ft. high at places, lie Ionic capitals and other fragments in picturesque confusion. Near the façade are preserved relics of the old stairs to the galleries. The small _Chapel_ and the square _Hall_ (later a burial-place) on the S. side of the church date perhaps from the 4th century. An *EXCURSION TO CAPE CHENOUA will be found attractive. We first follow the Cherchell road for 1 M.; we then turn, beyond the _Ferme Trémaux_ (p. 244), to the right and cross the Nador valley to the small sea-baths of _Chenoua-Plage_, at the E. base of Mt. Chenoua. A narrow road leads thence, up and down hill, along the beautiful _Baie du Chenoua_ to the _Anse des Grottes_, which owes its name to the numerous caves in the limestone rocks (_Grottes du Nador_). On the narrow coast-terrace between (7½ M.) _Cape Chenoua_ and the _Râs el-Amouch_ is the secluded settlement of a French contractor, who with a staff of Spanish hands carries on a cement-factory and quarries the red marble of the cape, which was already known to the Romans. The ascent of *=Jebel Chenoua= is interesting, both for the sake of the view from the top and for the glimpse it affords of its peculiar, purely Berber inhabitants. From the hilly coast-road just mentioned the route ascends to _Tenzirt_ and (2–2¼ hrs.) a _Pass_ (about 2300 ft.) between the two chief heights of the Chenoua. Thence in 40 min. more we reach the E. peak (2976 ft.), crowned with the kubba of _Lalla Tefouredj_ (Berber _Lalla Tzaforalz_). The path descending from the pass to _Desaix_ (see below) will be found convenient. The ROAD FROM TIPAZA to (17 M.) CHERCHELL (diligence, see p. 236) branches off to the W. from the Marengo road at (2 M.) _Gué du Nador_ (p. 243), crosses the stream, and leads past (3 M.) _Desaix_ (p. 244), through a bleak tract at the foot of Mt. Chenoua. 5½ M. _Castellum du Nador_, a late-Roman fortified country-seat (3rd or 4th cent.), was originally a quadrangular walled enclosure of 55 by 47 yds.; immediately to the left of the road there now remain the ruins of two round corner-towers and of a handsome gateway flanked with two square towers. The road leads on to the watershed, from which one has a view of the Atlas of Blida behind and the Dahra mountain spurs (p. 208) in front. Thence it dips into the valley of the _Oued el-Hachem_. 9½ M. _Marabout Sidi-Ameur_ (164 ft.), on the left bank of the stream, at the junction of the Marengo road (p. 244). About ¾ M. farther on we observe, on the left, the *=Cherchell Aqueduct=, coming from the village of Marceau, the largest Roman work of the kind in Algeria, which, rising in three tiers to a height of over 100 ft., here bridges a side-valley. Passing several hill-farms, owned by French families, the road next turns to the N.W. into the valley of the _Oued Bellah_. Beyond the (14 M.) _Café de l’Oasis_ we pass under the aqueduct, of which twenty pillars and five arches, built of great blocks of limestone, are still standing here at the foot of the beautiful pine-wood. Beyond the aqueduct begins the finest part of the road. At first it skirts a pine-clad slope and then, leaving _Cap Blanc_ to the N. E., leads to the W., up and down hill, along the coast. Lastly it passes the fissured _Cape Zizerin_ and two saints’ tombs. 17 M. _Cherchell_, see p. 244. b. Viâ El-Affroun and Marengo. RAILWAY (Algiers and Oran Line, R. 33) viâ (31½ M.) Blida (p. 213) to (43 M.) _El-Affroun_, six trains daily, in l–3/4–2¾ hrs. (7 fr. 75, 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 25 c.).—STEAM TRAMWAY from El-Affroun viâ (12½ M.) Marengo to (30½ M.) _Cherchell_, two (as far as Marengo three) trains daily, in ca. 2¾ hrs.; fare 3 fr. 70 or 2 fr. 70 c.—For the combined visit to Tipaza and Cherchell, comp. also the diary on pp. 236, 237. From Algiers to (43 M.) _El-Affroun_, see pp. 217–213. From the railway-station at El-Affroun the STEAM TRAMWAY runs to the W., at the foot of a range of low hills, through the plain of _Mitidja_, which is here very monotonous. To the right, on the crest of the Sahel, is the _Tombeau de la Chrétienne_ (p. 238); in front of us rises _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242). We pass the two poor villages of (3½ M.) _Ameur-el-Aïn_, and (8½ M.) _Bourkika_ (345 ft.), where the road from Miliana and Hammam Rhira (p. 212) joins ours. 12½ M. =Marengo= (305 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, Hôt. Marengo, both unpretending; carriages at the inns only; pop. 4300), a large agricultural village, has an important Wednesday *Market. About 5½ M. to the S. is the reservoir of the _Oued Meurad_. The ROAD FROM MARENGO TO (8 M.) TIPAZA (carr. 6–8 fr.) crosses the Oued Meurad and intersects the fine *_Forêt de Sidi-Slîmân_ (‘Solomon’s Forest’), still primæval in character, with dense underwood and luxuriant ivy climbing to the tops of the trees. At the _Oued Nador_, near the (6 M.) _Gué du Nador_, our road joins the Cherchell road (see p. 242). At the (7 M.) _Ferme Trémaux_ it leaves the valley of the Nador, whose estuary is flanked with low sand-hills, and leads to the E. to (8 M.) _Tipaza_ (p. 239). The highroad (carr. 12–15 fr.) from Marengo to (16 M.) _Cherchell_ (see below) ascends to the W. from the Mitidja through a hilly region and after about 6 M. turns to the N. It joins the road from Tipaza to Cherchell at (10 M.) _Marabout Sidi-Ameur_ (see p. 243). Beyond Marengo the RAILWAY crosses the highroad to Tipaza and then runs parallel to it to (17 M.) _Desaix_ (220 ft.; p. 242). We skirt the S. side of _Jebel Chenoua_ (p. 242). 20 M. _Ruines Romaines._ We cross the _Oued el-Hachem_ (p. 243). 23 M. _Zurich_ (263 ft.). The thriving village of that name, with a fine avenue of plane-trees, lies about 1½ M. to the S. of the station and is inhabited chiefly by natives, who cultivate oranges and vines. The great Thursday market is well attended by the Beni Menasser (see below). Beyond Zurich the train runs to the W. of the Cherchell highroad. To the left lies the _Cherchell Aqueduct_ (p. 243), while to the right Jebel Chenoua may be seen. 24 M. _Bled Bakora_; 25½ M. _Bou-Hamoud_; 27½ M. _Oued-Bellah_. 30½ M. =Cherchell= or _Cherchel_ (108 ft.; Grand-Hôtel or Hôt. Nicolas, R. 2½, déj. or D. 2½ fr., plain but good, Hôt. Juba, humble, both in the Place Romaine; Hôt. de Valence; pop. 6800, incl. 4700 Mohammedans), a pleasant little seaport, lies on a narrow limestone plateau, an old coast-terrace, at the foot of green hills (750–800 ft.). Behind these hills rises a mountainous region, once well wooded, inhabited by the Berber tribe of the _Beni Menasser_. Cherchell occupies the site of the ancient Phœnician colony of _Iol_. From the year 25 B. C. it took the name of _Caesarea_, and in the Roman imperial age it became the capital of Mauretania and residence of Juba II. (25 B. C. to 22 A. D.), one of the most learned and enlightened men of his time, under whom it rapidly rose to importance. Under Emp. Claudius it became the provincial capital, under the name of _Colonia Claudia Caesarea_, of Mauretania Cæsariensis, and in rivalry with Carthage and Hippo Regius (p. 309) grew to be one of the greatest and wealthiest cities of N. Africa. After the erection of Mauretania Sitifensis (p. 271) into a new province the prosperity of Cæsarea began to wane. About 371 its art and industry were almost annihilated by its capture and pillage by the Donatists (p. 172) under the Berber prince Firmus, and it lost the last vestige of its ancient glory when the Vandals transferred their residence to Carthage. In the 10th cent. the town is mentioned under the name of _Cherchell_, but from the 11th cent. onwards it was entirely deserted. At length, at the end of the 15th cent., it was revived by Andalusian Moors, who brought with them their famed potter’s art. In 1516 it was occupied by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221), in 1531 it was unsuccessfully attacked by Admiral Andrea Doria (p. 115), and lastly, after being taken by the French, it was enclosed by a wall in 1843. As the harbour affords but little shelter the town has now little or no trade. Archæologists may like to examine the scanty remains of the _Roman Fortifications_ (2735 by 1640 yds.), which extend over the crest of the hill-range with its fine views; but the chief attraction is the Museum of sculptures of the period of Juba II., which form the only certain memorials of ancient Cæsarea, ‘an oasis of Greek culture in the midst of the Berbers’. The PLACE ROMAINE or ESPLANADE forms the nucleus of the little town. Among the trees here rises a _Marble Fountain_, composed of Roman architectural fragments found in the environs, remains perhaps of a palace of king Juba’s era (the four colossal masks are copies; see below). The Corinthian column and fragments of other columns at the back of the fountain were excavated in the Roman theatre (p. 246). The parapet of the Place Romaine affords a survey of the harbour (p. 247). On the E. side of the Place Romaine rises the new *=Museum=, which consists of four galleries enclosing a central court. Among the sculptures exhibited here are admirable replicas of famous Greek works of the archaic and of the culminating periods of Greek art (5–4th cent.), which were executed by Greek masters for the adornment of king Juba’s residence. Adm. at any time; the custodian (½–1 fr.) shows also the Thermes de l’Ouest (see below). Catalogue (1902), 3 fr.; conservator, M. A. Munkel. Passing through the ENTRANCE ROOM (S.W. Pavilion; busts, statues, etc.) we enter the— SALLE BERBRUGGER (S. Gallery). 31. Marble statue of Venus; *1. Athena (torso), a copy in marble of a famous bronze by _Alcamenes_ (5th cent.); 46. Torso of a youth or Dionysus, probably after a marble statue of the _School of Praxiteles_; 10, 13. Two torsos of Diana; 39 B. Female statue with the attributes of Ceres; 33 B. Aphrodite (or Proserpine); several draped female statues.—In the middle of this gallery are several marble heads on brackets: *64. Apollo, after an archaic Attic original (early 5th cent.); 69. Juba II. as a youth; without number, Agrippina. SOUTH-EAST PAVILION. On the walls, mosaics (hunting-scenes, three Graces, etc.). In the centre, 11. Onyx statuette of Diana hunting; 109. Egyptian basalt statue of a king Thutmosis; 23. Marble group of Pan and a Satyr; 34. Venus. The SALLE JONNART (E. Gallery) contains in glass-cases pottery, lamps, bronzes, glass, coins, etc. In the middle, casts of statues found at Cherchell but now in the Museum of Algiers.—We now cross the CENTRAL COURT, with interesting architectural specimens, to the— SALLE VICTOR WAILLE (W. Gallery). 19. Hercules, after an original of the 5th cent.; *7. Dionysus; 19. Æsculapius, both after originals of the 4th cent.; *17G. Shepherd, replica of a work of _Praxiteles_; 21, 22. Two torsos of Hermes; *47. Torso of a youth. NORTH-WEST PAVILION. In the middle, draped female statue (Muse?), found in the theatre; numerous inscriptions; fragments of sculpture and architecture. SALLE CAGNAT (N. Gallery). *39. Colossal female statue after a model by _Phidias_; 37. Canephor (archaic); 38. Hermaphrodite and a Satyr (Hellenistic). On the N. wall on brackets: Four colossal masks from king Juba’s palace mentioned above (_Pergamenian School_; 1st cent.). NORTH-EAST PAVILION. Inscriptions; several objects of Punic origin. In the centre, 68. Bust of Augustus; 49B. Muse.—Leaving this room by a door in the N. wall we enter a— COURT containing sarcophagi and numerous architectural fragments. Leaving the Museum we cross the Place Romaine to its W. side, where we follow the third side-street (from the N.) to the W. and soon reach on the right, nearly opposite a little mosque, the *=Thermes de l’Ouest= (W. Baths), dating from the 2nd or 3rd cent., the grandest Roman ruins in the town, with walls still rising to a height of 10–13 ft. (concrete faced with brick) and bits of old mosaic pavement. Most of the antiques in the museum were found in these baths, in which they seem to have been collected in the early-Christian period. The ancient _Portico_, on the E. side of the baths, once with granite columns 26 ft. high, is now embedded in the building of the Manutention, and on the S. side are several chambers hidden under the Prison Civile. From the present entrance on the S. E. side we first come to a suite of five important chambers. The central hall, 26 by 16 yds., was probably the _Frigidarium_, which was flanked on three sides with smaller basins (piscinæ). The two narrow passages behind the S. and the N. basins show traces of the stairs that once ascended to the upper story. On the W. side of the frigidarium is a room supposed to have been the _Tepidarium_, which, like its side-rooms, is accessible only by climbing over the walls. The hall behind the tepidarium, with its semicircular niche, was apparently the _Caldarium_. The Baths command a delightful view of the sea and of the coast to the W., as far as Cape Ténès (p. 209). Proceeding from the Thermes de l’Ouest we take the side-street at the mosque mentioned at p. 245 to the S. and reach the RUE DE TÉNÈS, the principal street of the town which leads to the W. (right) to the Porte de Ténès (see below). We, however, turn to the E. (left) and then follow the Rue du Centre, the first S. side-street. In the first side-street of the last, on the right, is the entrance to the famous old CHIEF MOSQUE ‘of the hundred columns’, completed in 1573, now the _Military Hospital_. Into the original ‘house of prayer’ a corridor and four hospital dormitories have been built; the antique columns, which are said to have been brought from the W. Baths, have been disfigured by a coating of paint. At the S. end of the Rue du Centre, on the right, is a brick wall, the sole relic of the Roman _Thermes du Centre_. A few paces to the left, on the hill-side above the Rue du Caire, are the remains of the _Roman Theatre_, unearthed in 1905. The E. side-entrance (parodos), between the stage and the auditorium, still exists, but the 27 tiers of seats were used for building the neighbouring barracks in 1845. The _Barracks of the Tirailleurs_, on the hill above the theatre, stand on six antique _Cisterns_, once fed by the Cherchell aqueduct (p. 243). Passing through the Porte de Miliana, the S. gate behind the barracks, we may now follow a path through the fields to the ruined walls of the _Roman Circus_, once over 435 yds. long, which still lay within the ancient town-walls. Outside the _Porte de Ténès_ (comp. above), the W. town-gate, on the old Gunugu (Gouraya) road, lay several _Roman Burial Grounds_. A collection of objects unearthed here has been made by the commandant, _M. Archambeau_, at his country-seat ½ M. from the gate. From the Roman Theatre we follow the winding street to the N. and reach the S. side of the Place Romaine at the _Catholic Church_, built in the pseudo-classical style. In front of the high-altar and at the end of the left aisle are two early-Christian mosaics. We may go down to the =Harbour=, either from the Place Romaine or viâ the W. Baths (p. 245), passing a large _Roman Basin_ (piscina) and a ruined _Turkish Fort_ of Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221). The very shallow harbour, scarcely 5 acres in area, lying behind the fortified _Ilot Joinville_ with its lighthouse, is probably identical with the _Roman Naval Harbour_, where part of the Alexandrian and Syrian fleet was always stationed to defend the coast against pirates. The short pier at the point of the lighthouse-island and an old embankment on the cliffs on the E. side of the bay protected the ancient _Commercial Harbour_. To the E. of the Place Romaine and the Porte d’Alger, at the S.E. angle of the Champ de Manœuvres, are relics of the _Thermes de l’Est_ (E. Baths), including part of the chief hall, 22 by 13 yds., with two niches. From the highroad, 5 min. to the E. of the drilling-ground, a short path to the right leads to the foundation walls of the _Roman Amphitheatre_, overgrown with dense scrub. Since 1845 the ruins have served as a quarry. 36. From Algiers to Cape Matifou and to Aïn-Taya viâ Maison-Carrée. 20 M. STEAM TRAMWAY (p. 219), three trains daily (five on Sun. and holidays) in ca. 2¼ hrs. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 65 c.).—DILIGENCE from Rouïba (p. 249) to (4½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_ twice daily, in 1 hr.—A pleasant drive may be taken from Algiers to Aïn-Taya direct. The STEAM TRAMWAY runs parallel with the railway through the S. E. suburbs of Algiers (p. 232), past the _Jardin d’Essai_ (p. 232), and through the little town of _Hussein-Dey_ (p. 233), to the railway-station of _Maison-Carrée_ (p. 217). It then crosses the _Harrach_ by a Turkish bridge of 1697. 7½ M. =Maison-Carrée= (66 ft.; Hôt. du Roulage, Hôt. de l’Harrach, both humble; pop. 7300, incl. 2700 Mohammedans and 3200 foreigners, mostly Spaniards), prettily situated on the right bank of the Harrach, amidst hills rising some 200 ft. above the stream, possesses an agricultural school and an interesting cattle-market (Frid.). It owes its name to the square Turkish _Citadel_, built in 1746, now the _Prison de l’Harrach_, used for native convicts. About 1¼ M. to the N. of Maison-Carrée, near the sea, lies the _Monastère St. Joseph_, the headquarters of the _Missions d’Afrique_ founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346), whose members owe their name of _White Fathers_ (Pères Blancs) to their white gowns Arabian in appearance. The monastery owns an ethnographical collection from the interior of Africa. From Maison-Carrée the steam-tramway mentioned at p. 219 runs across the Mitidja to (19 M.) =L’Arba= (335 ft.; Hôt. des Etrangers; Hôt. de l’Arba), a small town of 2300 inhab., with an important Wednesday market (Arabic arbáa), and then along the foot of the Atlas, partly through orange-groves, to (23 M.) =Rovigo= (361 ft.; Hôt. des Eaux-Thermales; Hôt. du Commerce; pop. 4200, chiefly Mohammedan). This is the station for (4½ M.) _Hammam-Melouan_ (about 720 ft.), a small watering-place with hot saline springs, chiefly patronized by natives, in the narrow ravine of the _Harrach_. A picturesque hill-road leads from L’Arba to (59 M.) _Aumale_ (p. 250; diligence in 12 hrs.) viâ (14½ M.) _Sakamody_ (2585 ft.), (47½ M.) _Bir-Rabalou_ (2106 ft.), and (50½ M.) _Les Trembles_. The Matifou road ascends to the top of the hill-chain and leads to the E. to the village of (10 M.) _Retour-de-la-Chasse_ (75 ft.), 2 M. to the N.W. of railway-station Maison-Blanche (p. 249), and to (15½ M.) _Rouïba_ (p. 249). The STEAM TRAMWAY follows the direct road from Maison-Carrée to the N.E. to (12 M.) =Fort-de-l’Eau= (16 ft.; Hôt.-Restaur. du Casino, on the shore; Hôt. de la Plage and others, plain), a small sea-bathing place with many villas and a fine beach. Fine view of Algiers and the spurs of Mont Bouzaréah. The old Turkish coast-fort, _Bordj el-Kifan_, of 1581, stormed by the Foreign Legion in 1833, is now the Caserne de Douaniers. The village, noted for its banana-culture, is inhabited chiefly by ‘Mahonnais’ (p. 233). From the village we proceed to the N.E., a little inland from the bay, which is now much choked with sand, through tame fields and underwood, to the _Oued el-Hamiz_. Here we turn to the N., soon obtaining a view of the broad Bay of Algiers and the distant Atlas of Blida, and traverse the extensive plateau of _Cape Matifou_ (236 ft.; Arabic _Râs Temendfus_). 17 M. =Matifou= (210 ft.), a poor village, lies about 1½ M. to the E. of the site of the Roman town of _Rusguniae_, where, under the dense brushwood, the remains of baths and the foundations of an early-Christian basilica have been discovered. The church, originally with nave and aisles, was rebuilt in the Byzantine period with double aisles and a W. apse. The small _Harbour_ beyond the village, where Emp. Charles V. embarked the remnant of his army in 1541 (comp. p. 221), is now a quarantine station for vessels and a port for pilgrims (Mers el-Hadjadjeh). The Mohammedans returning from Mecca, usually including many Moroccans, have to spend several days here in the large _Lazaretto_ built in 1884. Besides the _Bordj Temendfous_, the interesting old Turkish fort, there are also on the peninsula the French _Fort d’Estrées_, a _Lighthouse_ (207 ft.), visible from 32 M., and a _Semaphore_. On the shore, where there are traces of a breakwater, a large tunny-net (_madrague_) is set in summer. The fishermen are mostly Corsicans and S. Italians from the villages of _La Pérouse_ and _Jean-Bart_. Beyond Matifou we skirt the E. margin of the peninsula, soon sighting the fine coast of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Bengut (p. 254), and run to the S.E., past some Roman ruins, to the village of _Aïn-Beïda_. 20 M. =Aïn-Taya= (131 ft.; Hôt. du Figuier, R. 2–4, B. ¾, déj. or D. 2½–3, pens. 6–7 fr., quite good), a pleasant agricultural village, is inhabited chiefly by Spaniards. From the chief place a short avenue of plane-trees and palms leads to the N.E. to the steep edge of the coast and the fine bathing-beach. From the S. margin of the plateau, on the highroad beyond Aïn-Taya, we obtain a delightful *View of the E. Mitidja with its girdle of mountains. The road then descends to (24½ M.) _Rouïba_ (see below), whence we may take the train back to Algiers or else to Menerville (p. 250). 37. From Algiers to Bougie viâ Beni-Mansour. 162 M. RAILWAY, in 7¾. hrs. By the Constantine morning-express (p. 269) in 4¾ hrs. to _Beni-Mansour_ (Rail. Restaurant; meals at Bouïra or at Bougie should be ordered beforehand) where carriages are changed; thence by ordinary train to (3 hrs.) Bougie (fares 29 fr. 20, 20 fr. 85, 15 fr. 65 c.). The Constantine night-express (p. 269) may be taken as far as Bouïra, where in this case the rest of the night must be spent.—Or we may take the MOTOR OMNIBUS from Algiers to Bouïra.—SEA VOYAGE from Algiers to Bougie, comp. R. 22. From Algiers to (7½ M.) _Maison-Carrée_, see p. 247. Here our line, which forms part of the main E. Algerian line to Constantine (R. 43) and Biskra (R. 44) diverges from the Oran line (R. 33) to the S.E. The train crosses the _Harrach_ and skirts the S. side of the hills near Maison-Carrée. View, to the right, of the Tell Atlas and the serrated _Jebel Bou-Zegza_ (3386 ft.). Beyond (12 M.) _Maison-Blanche_ (36 ft.) the plateau adjoining _Cape Matifou_ (p. 248) appears on the left. We cross the _Oued el-Hamiz_. 16 M. _Rouïba_ (60 ft.; Hôt. Glacier; Hôt. de France), a large village in the most fertile part of the E. Mitidja, with many vineyards. Diligence to (4½ M.) _Aïn-Taya_, see pp. 247, 248. 20 M. _Réghaïa_. We cross the _Oued Réghaïa_ and pass through the so-called _Forêt de la Réghaïa_, with its sparse cork-trees. 24½ M. _Alma_ (66 ft.; Hôt. du Cheval-Blanc; Hôt. d’Europe, etc.), ¾ M. to the S. of the station, occupies an idyllic site among hills on the left bank of the _Oued Boudouahou_. The HIGH ROAD leads from the right bank of the Boudouahou in long windings through the beautiful hill-country of the _Sahel_, which flanks the N. side of the Tell Atlas. Passing mostly through underwood it crosses the _Oued Corso_, and leads viâ the villages of _Ste. Marie-du-Corso_ (125 ft.) and _Belle-Fontaine_ (p. 250), on the left, to _Ménerville_ (p. 250). The railway, carried partly through cuttings, intersects the Sahel to the N.E. 26 M. _Corso-Tahtâni_ (118 ft.), ¾ M. from the sea, near the mouth of the Oued Corso. To the left we have a brief outlook towards the sea. In the foreground rise the hills of the Sahel as far as Cape Djinet (p. 253). The train leaves the coast, passing at places through cuttings and between pleasant hills planted with mimosa, and enters, to the S.E., the vale of the _Oued Bou Merdès_, resplendent in spring with its mantle of golden broom. 30½ M. _Belle-Fontaine_ (167 ft.); the village lies on a fine open hill to the right (466 ft.). We next pass between mimosa-clad hills, backed by wooded mountains, and through a defile which forms the portal of the Isser valley and Great Kabylia (p. 252). 34 M. =Ménerville= (492 ft.; Hôt. Blanchard, plain but good), on the _Col des Beni-Aïcha_, a dirty village of 3000 inhab., is the junction for Tizi-Ouzou (R. 38). Our line descends to the S.E. into the valley of the _Isser_, and then ascends on its left bank. 38 M. _Souk el-Haad_ (230 ft.). Beyond (40½ M.) _Beni-Amran_ (420 ft.) begins the grand _Ravine of the Isser_ (Gorges de Palestro or des Beni-Hinni), which pierces the _Massif des Beni-Kalfoun_, 4½ M. long, rivalling the gorge of the Chiffa (p. 215). Views chiefly to the right; but owing to the numerous tunnels we see little of the bold limestone rocks. 48 M. =Palestro= (525 ft.; Hôt. de France, déj. 2 fr., Hôt. du Commerce, both humble), a poor village of 600 inhab. (with Wednesday market), defended by a fort, lies in the fertile central section of the Isser valley. Near it rises _Jebel Tegrimoun_ or _Tegrimont_ (3373 ft.), the highest of the Massif des Beni-Kalfoun (see above), commanding the famous view of the Jurjura Mts. (p. 258). Beyond (55 M.) _Thiers_ (624 ft.) the train leaves the Isser, offering a glimpse of the head of its valley to the right, and turns to the E. into the tame valley of its tributary _Oued Djemâa_. 61½ M. _Aomar-Dra el-Mizan_ (778 ft.), station for _Aomar_ (1266 ft.) and (7½ M.) _Dra el-Mizan_ (p. 254; diligence). The train runs to the S. E. along the foot of the _Beni Smaïl Mts._ (p. 254), and then, curving far round to the E., ascends rapidly to the head of the valley of the Djemâa, here called _Oued Bezzit_, and to the _Col de Dra el-Khemis_ (1962 ft.), the saddle between the W. Jurjura range and the hills of Aïn-Bessem (see below). Threading a tunnel the train then descends to the S. to the _Plaine du Hamza_, the upper region of the _Oued Eddous_ valley (called Oued Sahel lower down; p. 251). 76½ M. =Bouïra= (1722 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hôt. de la Colonie, R. 2–3, B. ¾–1, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; Hôt. des Voyageurs; pop. 7500), a small town with an old Turkish fort and a great Saturday market largely attended by Kabyles (p. 252), is connected by hill-paths with Boghni (p. 254) and Fort-National (p. 257). A ROAD (diligence twice daily) leads to the S.W. from Bouïra through the valley of the _Oued Lekhal_ to (15½ M.) _Aïn-Bessem_ (2221 ft.) in the _Plaine des Aribs_, and thence to the S. to (29 M.) _Aumale_ (2907 ft.; Hôt. Grossat, R. 2½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 10–12 fr.; Hôt. Raveu; pop. 6100), a little town on the N.E. spurs of _Jebel Dira_ (5938 ft.). This was the ancient _Auzia_, an important station on the Roman road to Mauretania (p. 124), of which numerous epigraphical monuments are now in the Museum. A beautiful road (p. 248) leads from Aumale to _L’Arba_ and _Algiers_; another to (20 M.) _Sidi-Aïssa_ and (84 M.) _Bou-Saâda_ (p. 270; diligence at 11 a.m., in 22 hrs.). The train now descends to the E., on the right bank of the Oued Eddous; on the left tower the rocks of the Jurjura (_Jebel Haïzer_ and _Jebel Akouker_, p. 258). 85 M. _El-Esnam._ 93½ M. _El-Adjiba_ (1247 ft.), near the influx of the _Oued Zaïane_ into the Eddous, which now takes the name of _Oued Sahel_ (the ancient _Navasath_). From El-Adjiba across the _Tizi n-Assoual_ to _Fort-National_, see p. 258. 100½ =M. Maillot= (1477 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, R. 2 fr., déj. or D. 2 fr., Hôt. de la Poste, Hôt. de l’Union, all poor), a small village 2½ M. to the N. of the station (about 1050 ft.; diligence meets some of the trains), lies on the slope of the _Lalla Khedidja_ (7572 ft.; p. 259), the highest peak of the Jurjura, famed for its cedar-forests (comp. p. 210). From Maillot viâ the _Tirourda Pass_ to _Michelet_, _Fort-National_, and _Tizi-Ouzou_, see R. 39; viâ _Fort-National_ to _Azazga_ (_Bougie_), R. 40. 107 M. =Beni-Mansour= (948 ft.; Rail. Restaurant, déj. or D. 3 fr., good), junction of the main line to Constantine and Biskra (RR. 43, 44) with the Bougie branch, lies on the boundary between the provinces of Algiers and Constantine. Near it is the finely situated old French fort, _Bordj de Beni-Mansour_, now a school. Sunday market near the station. The Bougie line (change carriages) crosses the _Oued Mahrir_ (p. 269), near its influx into the Oued Sahel, and crosses the latter near the mouth of the _Oued Tixiriden_ (p. 260). 112 M. _Tazmalt_ (902 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs), ½ M. to the N.W. of the station, the first village in the province of Constantine, with extensive olive-groves, lies near the _Oued Beni Mellikeuch_. This, like Maillot, is a station for the _Tirourda Pass_ (R. 39).—To the S. of the railway rise the _Beni Abbès Mts._ Below (115 M.) _Allaghan_ (774 ft.) the Sahel valley contracts. On the left rises the _Piton d’Akbou_, crowned with a late-Roman tomb of the 3rd cent, (a step-pyramid on a square base), but not visible from the train. On the right, beyond the mouth of the copious _Oued Bou Sellam_ (p. 269), which rises in the mountains of _Little Kabylia_ (p. 266), the serrated _Jebel Gueldaman_ (2638 ft.) juts far into the valley. 122 M. _Akbou_ (1050 ft.; Hôt. du Sahel; Hôt. Bellevue; pop. 1200; Mon. market), a large village, is the starting-point of a path to the _Col de Chellata_ (p. 260). Grand eucalypti in the environs. Far away to the left as we proceed towers _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262). 126 M. _Azib-ben-Ali-Chérif_ (512 ft.); 128½, M. _Ighzer-Amokran_, at the mouth of the brook of that name. The broad floor of the valley is clothed with meagre underwood. 133 M. _Takritz_, or _Takriets_ (364 ft.), is the station also for _Seddouk_, 5½ M. to the S.E.; 136 M. _Sidi-Aïch_ (295 ft.) has a Wednesday market well attended by the neighbouring _Fenaïa_ (p. 261) and _Beni Himmel_ tribes. Olives abound on the hill-sides farther on; in the valley below is a small grove of fig-trees. 142 M. _Il-Maten_ (361 ft.), on the left bank of the Sahel, whose valley, now called _La Soummam_, is fever-stricken lower down. On the left bank of the Sahel, near _Tiklat_, a village about halfway between Il-Maten and El-Kseur, are the interesting ruins of the Roman town of _Thubusuctu_ or _Thubusuptus_. Fragments of the walls of the baths, 33 ft. high, are still standing; the great Cisternes d’El-Arouia are 83 yds. long and 41 yds. wide; and there are relics of two aqueducts besides many tombs. 147 M. _El-Kseur-Amizour._ The village of _El-Kseur_ (p. 261) lies ½ M. to the N., on the Azazga road; that of _Oued-Amizour_ is 3¾ M. to the S.E. of the station. 149½ M. _Tombeau de la Neige._ 154½ M. _La Réunion_ (53 ft.), on the slope to the left, is near the mouth of the _Oued Rhir_ or _Ghir_. Road (8 M.) to _Toudja_ (p. 262). The train, running to the N.E., now enters the plain at the mouth of the Sahel. Fine view, to the right, of the _Gulf of Bougie_ and the hills of Little Kabylia. In the foreground, beyond the wooded and fertile _Plaine_, watered by the _Oued Srir_, appears _Jebel Gouraya_ (p. 265). 162 M. _Bougie_, see p. 262. 38. From Algiers to Tizi-Ouzou. From Camp-du-Maréchal to Tigzirt. From Algiers to _Tizi-Ouzou_, 66½ M., railway in 3½–6¾ hrs.; fares 12 fr., 8 fr. 55, 6 fr. 45 c.; 1st cl. return 16 fr. 90 c. (to Camp-du-Maréchal, 56 M., in 3–5¾ hrs.; fares 10 fr. 10, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 40 c.).—From Camp-du-Maréchal to _Dellys_, 19½ M., light railway in ca. 1¾ hr. (2 fr. 35 or 1 fr. 70 c.).—From Dellys to _Tigzirt_, 16 M., diligence in 3 hrs. (at night only).—MOTORING TOURS, comp. p. 173. The railway to Tizi-Ouzou forms the chief approach to =Great Kabylia= or _Grande Kabylie_, for which the best season is April or May, when the bare limestone peaks of the Jurjura (p. 258) are still capped with their winter snow, while the lower hills are clothed with the fresh verdure of spring. Most travellers are satisfied with a visit to Fort-National and Michelet and the drive across the Tirourda Pass (R. 39) but the long route from Fort-National to Bougie viâ Azazga and Taourirt-Ighil (R. 40) also is quite interesting. Beautiful coast scenery between Dellys and Tigzirt. The ruins at the latter will interest archæologists. The hotel-charges are everywhere disproportionate to the services rendered, and the cuisine is generally indifferent. Fairly good quarters are to be found only at Tizi-Ouzou, Tigzirt, Michelet, Azazga, and Taourirt-Ighil. The so-called _Kabyles_ (from the Arabic _kebila_, tribe) consisted, as far back as the Roman period, of five Berber tribes, united to form a state with a democratic constitution. In their remote mountain villages (_thaddart_) they successively repelled the attacks of the Romans, the Arabs, and the Turks, and it was not till 1852–7 that the French after protracted struggles succeeded in subduing them. During the Turkish period they were called _Zuawas_, whence the modern French Zouaves derive their name. Their language is a Berber dialect mingled with Latin and Arabic words. The men in the over-peopled W. and S. regions often migrate to the Algerian towns and even to foreign countries as hawkers (_iattaren_), or to the Mitidja as harvest labourers. The women, who are unveiled and often adorned with valuable trinkets, are seen to advantage at the wells. Many of the girls have pretty faces and good figures. From Algiers to (34 M.) _Ménerville_, see pp. 249, 250. To the left of the train, halfway to Félix-Faure, is the so-called _Mausolée de Blad-Guitoun_, the sadly dilapidated tomb, originally 33 ft. high, of a Christian Berber prince (4th or 5th cent.), in the style of the later Djedar (p. 208), but with an octagonal base. The interior, like that of the Tombeau de la Chrétienne (p. 238), contains a lion in relief, a winding gallery, and a tomb-chamber. The pyramid with its steps has disappeared. 38 M. _Félix-Faure-Courbet._ From the village of Félix-Faure (236 ft.), formerly called _Blad-Guitoun_, near the station, a road (diligence twice daily) leads to the N. through the hilly Sahel to (4½ M.) _Zaatra_ and (5½ M.) _Courbet_ (253 ft.), two villages chiefly inhabited by settlers from Alsace and Lorraine. The road ends at (8¾ M.) _Port-aux-Poules_ or _Mers el-Hadjadjeh_ (p. 248), a decayed seaport on the site of the Roman _Rusubricari_, the ruins of which have been almost entirely swept away by the waves. The train crosses the _Isser_ by viaducts of 110 and 160 yds. in length. 40½ M. _Les Issers_ (82 ft.; Hôt. du Marché, Hôt. des Issers, both humble) is the station for _Isserville_ (213 ft.; Hôt. Sigé), which holds a busy Thursday market. Diligence to (24½ M.) _Dra el-Mizan_ (p. 254). 43½ M. _Bordj-Ménaïel_ (53 ft.; Hôt. du Roulage; pop. 1100) holds market on Fridays. A ROAD leads to the N. from Bordj-Ménaïel through the Isser valley, avoiding the sand-hills at the mouth of the stream, and then skirting _Jebel Djinet_, the ‘frontier pillar’ of Great Kabylia, to (10 M.) the small bay, opening towards the W., of _Mersa Djinet_, near _Cape Djinet_ (164 ft.), whose basalt-quarries have yielded paving-stones for Algiers. The train leaves the Isser and ascends to the E. in the valley of the _Oued Chender_ to (51 M.) _Haussonvillers_ (492 ft.; Hôt. des Postes), peopled by settlers from Alsace-Lorraine. We are now carried over four viaducts, each over 100 ft. high, and through tunnels on the N. slope of the finely-shaped _Beni Mekla_ hills (2920 ft.), down to the _Sebaou Valley_, the chief valley of Great Kabylia. In the distance appears _Jebel Belloua_ (p. 254). 56 M. =Camp-du-Maréchal= (184 ft.; Hôt. Frœliger), peopled by Alsace-Lorrainers, has a Tuesday and a Thursday market. Cork-tree woods in the environs. From Camp-du-Maréchal to _Dellys_ and _Tigzirt_, see pp. 254, 255. We cross the _Bougdoura_. 60½ M. _Mirabeau_ (154 ft.; Hôt. Caratero, humble). FROM MIRABEAU TO BOGHNI, 18¾ M., light railway (continuation of the line from Dellys), in ca. 1¾ hr. (2 fr. 25 or 1 fr. 65 c.). The train at first runs to the S. on the Dra el-Mizan road (p. 254), through a eucalyptus avenue in the broad and featureless lower valley of the Bougdoura, to beyond (4½ M.) _Tléta_. A little farther on it leaves the highroad and penetrates very narrow cuttings up the winding upper Bougdoura valley, past (12 M.) _Maatkas_, in the territory of the tribe of that name, to (18¾ M.) =Boghni= (755 ft.; Hôt. Ricard, Hôt. Grossiard, both humble). The little village lies in the fertile green valley of the stream, here called _Oued Boghni_, between the lower hills and _Jebel Haïzer_ or _Haïzeur_, the chief peaks of which are _Râs Tachgagalt_ or _Pic Ficheur_ (7044 ft.) to the E. and _Tamgout Haïzer_ (6965 ft.) to the W. From Boghni to _Aïn-Sultan_ and _Fort-National_, see pp. 258, 257. FROM MIRABEAU TO DRA EL-MIZAN (26 M.). The highroad, beyond the cuttings near Tléta (p. 253), crosses the Bougdoura and runs to the W. for a short time in the valley of the _Oued Aguergoun_, in view of the fine S. slopes of the Beni Mekla Mts. (p. 253). It then bends to the S.W. into the pretty and secluded valley of the _Acif Tléta_ or _Oued Kessari_, which here intersects the lower hills and for a distance of 17 M. contains not a single human habitation. The hill-sides, however, are carefully cultivated by the neighbouring villagers, and are well planted with fig and olive-trees, eucalypti, and cork-oaks. We then ascend a high plateau, with a superb view of Jebel Haïzer (see above), to the village of (26 M.) =Dra el-Mizan= (1525 ft.; Hôt. Bellevue, Hôt. du Commerce, both humble), once famed for its textile fabrics, situated on the N.W. spurs of the _Beni Smaïl Mts._ (p. 250; 10 M. to the W. of Boghni; diligence). A picturesque road (7½ M.; diligence) leads from Dra el-Mizan, to the S.W., across the _Tizi el-Arba_ (beyond this, another view of Jebel Haïzer), to the rail. station of _Aomar-Dra el-Mizan_ (p. 250). The train next crosses the _Oued Sebt_, approaches the Sebaou after a long bend to the N., and then ascends past the Alsatian village of (64½ M.) _Bou-Khalfa_ (161 ft.), near the wooded W. slope of the finely situated _Jebel Belloua_ (2280 ft.). 66½ M. =Tizi-Ouzou= (620 ft.; Hôt. Lagarde, R. 3–5, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 3½, omn. ½ fr., quite good; Hôt. du Square and Hôt. du Roulage, unpretending; pop. 29,620), the chief town and market (Sat.) in the interior of Great Kabylia. Jebel Belloua may be ascended hence, and the poor and dirty Kabyle village at the N. end of the little town may be visited by the curious. From Tizi-Ouzou to _Fort National_ and _Michelet_ (Tirourda Pass), see R. 39. * * * * * The LIGHT RAILWAY TO DELLYS (19½ M.; p. 252) descends to the N. from _Camp-du-Maréchal_ (p. 253) through the broad _Sebaou Valley_, past unimportant stations; then, near the mouth of the stream, it turns to the N.E., away from the highroad, and skirts the coast, which is at first flat and sandy and afterwards bold, and abrupt. To the left rises the lighthouse, famed for its view, on _Cape Bengut_ (207 ft.), a spur of _Jebel Ouamri_ (1227 ft.), composed partly of basalt and other eruptive rocks. We now proceed to the E., at first through orchards and then on an embankment 26 ft. high, on the brink of a grand abraded terrace, 1 M. long, flanked with narrow perpendicular ledges of sandstone. We then pass through a short tunnel under the ‘dagger-pointed’ _Cape Dellys_. 19½ M. =Dellys= (203 ft.; Hôt. de la Colonie; pop. 3000, of whom 2000 are Mohammedans, mostly Berbers of the Arab type), a quiet little seaport, the W. sea-gate of Great Kabylia, probably on the site of the Roman _Cissi_, rises in terraces with luxuriant gardens on the E. slope of Cape Dellys, at the end of which is a small lighthouse. The deserted harbour is fairly protected against N. and N.W. winds only; the unfinished works at the end of the headland have been destroyed by the waves. Dellys offers little attraction beyond the strikingly beautiful view, stretching as far as Cape Tedlès (p. 256). A few relics of Roman _Cisterns_ and _Thermae_ also may be visited. The _Native Quarter_ is very picturesque. The _Ecole Nationale d’Apprentissage des Arts et Métiers_, numbering many Kabyle pupils, was transferred hither from Fort-National (p. 257) in 1871. The *COAST ROAD TO TIGZIRT (16 M.; diligence, see p. 252) leads to the E. from Dellys, up and down hill, in many windings, past small headlands and bays and the estuaries of torrents. At first we observe isolated European settlements, but farther on we pass through underwood and the fields and fig-groves of the Kabyle hill-folk. The latter half of the route leads through remains of the _Forêt de Mizrana_. 16 M. =Tigzirt= (66 ft.; Hôt. des Ruines-Romaines, plain; pop. barely 200), a poor little agricultural village founded in 1888, with a lively Wednesday market, occupies part of the site of the ancient _Rusuccuru_. This, as the name indicates, was originally a Berber settlement; it afterwards became a Phœnician seaport. In the late-Roman period it vied with Saldæ (p. 263) as one of the most populous places on this part of the coast, and under the Byzantines it was still fairly prosperous. The village lies on a low coast-terrace behind _Cape Tigzirt_, a small headland, running out to a storm-beaten rocky island, with which in the Roman period it was connected by a quay. The _Roman Town Wall_ extended from one shore to the other, as did also the shorter _Byzantine Wall_, which was nearer the promontory. The new buildings erected by the Byzantines, now a mass of ruins overgrown by bushes, superseded most of the Roman edifices on the promontory. The sole relic of the latter is a small *TEMPLE (14¾ by 7 yds.) of the time of Septimius Severus, of unusually heavy and massive form, which, according to the inscription, was dedicated to the genius of the municipium of Rusuccuru. The lofty front-wall of the cella, borne by two columns, immediately adjoins the small court of the temple without an intervening vestibule. The Roman ruins between the two town-walls, on the inland side, have been mostly either destroyed or built over by the modern villagers. The most important of the old buildings at Rusuccuru is the *BISHOP’S CHURCH, situated close to the Roman town-wall in the E. part of the village. Originally a columnar basilica, 44 by 23 yds., probably of the 5th cent., it is now a picturesque chaos of ruins, with remains of the old mosaic pavement. The entrances were through the chief portal in the narrow W. vestibule and by three smaller doorways in the wall of the façade, leading into an inner vestibule built into the nave. There are still traces of the two arcades of the nave, borne by clustered columns, all brought from ancient buildings, which rested without bases on stone pedestals. The rich plastic decoration of the imposts, with a touch of the Punic style, is noteworthy. The galleries over the aisles, accessible by outside stairs on the N.E. side only, were ruined by fire at an early period. On each side of the oldest altar-table at the end of the nave four steps ascended to the choir-recess, where remains of the columns of the later ciborium altar still exist. Two small doors led from the apse into the sacristies, which were shut off from the aisles. The diaconicon, on the left, was adjoined by the quatrefoil-shaped baptistery, also on the left, containing fragments of the old font. The W. portal of the baptistery led into a rectangular hall. In the late Byzantine period the E. half of the nave was walled off for the use of the greatly reduced congregation, while the old aisles and the sacristies were converted into burial-places. A few paces to the S. of the bishop’s church, above part of the ancient Roman baths, are relics of a smaller early-Christian _Basilica_, ending in a trilateral apse. Outside of the town lay the E. burial-ground, with an early-Christian _Chapel_ of similar design. From Tigzirt we may climb, 1 hr. to the N. E., through underwood, to the Berber village of =Taksept=, on the crest of the abrupt _Cape Tedlès_ (870 ft.). Among the stone huts of the villagers are many fragments of Roman buildings, hardly now recognizable, probably the ruins of _Iomnium_, whose harbour lay on the E. side of the promontory. On the highest point of the cape stands the chief landmark of this part of the coast, the so-called _Phare_ or _Mausolée de Taksept_, a late-Roman tomb, still about 29 ft. high, with an octagonal substructure adorned with eight Corinthian columns, above which probably once rose a step-pyramid. 39. From Tizi-Ouzou viâ Fort-National to Maillot or Tazmalt. 65 or 63½ M. ROAD. From Tizi-Ouzou to Fort-National 17 M. (diligence in 4 hrs., at 5 a.m. and 12.30 p.m.; returning at 8.45 and 1.15). From Fort-National to Michelet 12½ M. (diligence in 2½ hrs., at 5.15 p m., returning 6 a.m.). From Michelet to Maillot 35½ M., to Tazmalt 34 M. (no diligence). Carriage from Hôt. Lagarde at Tizi-Ouzou to Fort-National 25–45, to Michelet (two days) 50–75, to Maillot or Tazmalt 125–175 fr.; cheaper at the diligence office of Aug. Passicos (p. 257), who will send a carriage to the Tizi-Ouzou station if ordered by letter or telegram. Mules also may be hired at Michelet (on Frid. they must be ordered in advance). The Tirourda Pass is seldom fit for driving before the end of April. _Tizi-Ouzou_, see p. 254. The FORT-NATIONAL ROAD descends to the E. into the valley of the Sebaou, where, at the bridge (259 ft.) across its affluent _Oued Aïssi_, we enjoy a splendid *View of the Jurjura Mts. (p. 258). It then branches off to the S.E., a little before the village of _Sikh ou Meddour_, from the Azazga road on the left bank (p. 260), and begins to ascend rapidly to the long _Massif de Fort-National_, the most important branch of the *=Massif Kabyle=, which extends from the Sebaou to the base of the Azerou-Tidjer (p. 259). The road ascends in short windings, dangerous for motorists descending, at one time following the S.W. slope of the hill above the Oued Aïssi, where we have splendid mountain views, at another running along the N.E. slope, above a second side-valley of the Sebaou. On every side we see countless fig-trees, the favourite fruit-trees of the natives. We pass isolated cottages and a few small Kabyle villages (_Adeni_, _Tamâzirt_, and others), where the curious may obtain access to one or other of the poor and uninviting huts. Lastly, the road ascends by a long bend (cut off by a mule-track) to the N. to the top of the hill. =17 M. Fort-National.=—HOTELS (comp. p. 174). _Hôtel des Touristes_, R. 3, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr., food tolerable; _Hôt. Bellevue_, humble.—CARRIAGES at the diligence-office, kept by _Aug. Passicos_.—Picture post-cards at _Boussuge’s_, photographer. _Fort-National_ (3035 ft.; pop. 1000), in the territory of the _Beni Raten_ or _Iraten_ tribe, was built in 1857, to overawe the natives, on the site of a Kabyle village, and is now the capital of the Massif Kabyle, with a busy Wednesday market, and like Michelet (p. 258), is a favourite centre for excursions. It consists of little more than a single main street between the two town-gates. Several shops contain Kabylian pottery and wood-carvings. The trinkets sold here are often of Moroccan manufacture. The ‘cavalier’ or high bastion of the _Citadel_ (3153 ft.; adm. only by leave of the commandant) is a fine point of view, reached from the N.W. town-gate by the short Rue Maréchal. A similar distant view is obtained by walking round the _Town Walls_ on the N.E. side, and also from the Michelet road (p. 258). EXCURSIONS. The best insight into the character of the people and their land is afforded by the interesting, but rather fatiguing walk or ride through the =Djemâa Valley= to _Michelet_ (5–6 hrs.; mule 4–6 fr.; path unfit for riding at places). We leave the road a few hundred paces outside the S.E. gate of Fort-National, pass the large village of _Taourirt-Amokran_ (2424 ft.), the capital of the _Aït Ousammeur_ tribe, a place noted for its quaint old-fashioned pottery, and then descend abruptly to the S. to the (1 hr.) _Djemâa Bridge_ (about 1300 ft.). On the left bank of the brook we ascend through the territory of the _Beni Yenni_, well known for their various art-industries, to the village of _Aït-Larbâa_ (2166 ft.; mission-house of the White Fathers in the vicinity; p. 247), and then to the S.E. to (9½ M.) _Taourirt-Mimoun_ (2435 ft.), whose white school-house is conspicuous from a distance. The main track now leads to the S.E. on the crest of the Beni Yenni Mts. viâ _Taourirt el-Hadjadj_ (2598 ft.) to _Tassaft ou Guemoun_ (2545 ft.), and thence down steep zigzags to _Souk el-Djemâa_ (1477 ft.), where we reach the steep road ascending to _Menguellet_ (3350 ft.) and _Hôpital Ste. Eugénie_ (p. 258). Shorter, but often impassable after rain, is the mule-track from Taourirt-Mimoun to the (¾ hr.) _Djemâa Ford_ (about 1395 ft.), and thence through a side-valley to (1¼ hr.) Menguellet. To =Boghni= (8–9 hrs.; mule 8–10 fr.), a pleasant day’s excursion. From Fort-National we first follow, to the S.W., the fine open road to the village of _Aït-Atelli_ (2648 ft.), and then descend viâ _Aït-Frah_ (2126 ft.) to the _Lowest Djemâa Ford_ (about 900 ft.). Thence we follow the right bank of the _Oued Aïssi_ (p. 256) and go through the side-valley of the _Acif Djerra_ to _Souk el-Haad_ (about 1300 ft.), the chief market of the _Ouadhia_. We then skirt the S. slope of _Jebel Iril ou Moula_, crowned with the village of that name, and reach _Aïn-Sultan_ (1313 ft.), a copious spring shaded by huge nettle-trees (Celtis australis L.), 3¾ M. from _Boghni_ (p. 254). Good climbers, properly equipped, may in the warmer season explore some of the fine passes among the *=Jurjura= or =Djurdjura Mts.=, the Roman _Mons Ferratus_, and ascend some of the higher peaks. Provisions and guides necessary; night-quarters are obtainable at the school-houses. =1.= To _Souk el-Haad_, see p. 257 and above; then viâ _Aït-Krelifa_ (2230 ft.), along the W. spurs of the _Chenacha Mts._, and through the wild valley of the _Beni Bou Addou_ to the _Lac de Tizi-Koulmin_, one of the few mountain-lakes in the Atlas. The lake lies at the foot of the pass (5813 ft.) of that name, which separates the _Râs Tachgagalt_ or _Pic Ficheur_ (p. 254) from the _Azerou-Ncennad_ or _Pic de Galland_ (7002 ft.), the westmost peak of _Jebel Akouker_. From the pass we descend to the S.W. through remains of a fine cedar-forest to _Bouïra_ (p. 250).—=2.= From Fort-National viâ _Taourirt-Amokran_ (p. 257) to _Aït-Lahssen_ (2851 ft.), the north-westmost village of the Beni Yenni (p. 257); then viâ _Souk el-Arba_ (1221 ft.), a market-village in the valley of the _Acif el-Arba_, to _Aït-Touddeurt_ (2271 ft.) and _Taguemoun_ (3852 ft.), on the S. slope of _Jebel Kouriet_ (5027 ft.), one of the Chenacha Mts. (see above); thence across three passes, the _Col de Taguemoun_ (3681 ft.), the _Tizi Guessig_, on the E. side of the _Azerou es-Guessig_, one of the Akouker group, and the _Tizi Boulma_ (5532 ft.), between the Azerou-Ncennad (see above) and the _Râs Timedouine_ (7563 ft.), the highest peak of Jebel Akouker; thence down to _Bouïra_.—=3.= Viâ _Souk el-Arba_ (see above) to the village of _Tiroual_ (2664 ft.), on the spurs of the _Azerou ou Gougane_ (7080 ft.) and _Azerou Thaltatt_; next across the _Tizi n-Assoual_ (5683 ft.) to _Ansor el-Akhal_ or _Ansor Lekhal_ (about 2950 ft.), and through the valley of the _Oued Beurd_ to _El-Adjiba_ (p. 251). The ROAD TO MICHELET (29½ M.; diligence, see p. 256), starting from the S.E. gate of Fort-National, leads at first along the S.W. slope of the Massif de Fort-National, soon affording a superb *View of the Jurjura Mts., from Jebel Haïzer (p. 254), on the W., and from Jebel Akouker (see above) to the Lalla Khedidja (p. 259). To the right, in the valley, lies the village of Taourirt-Amokran (p. 257); opposite us, beyond the deep ravine of the Oued Djemâa (see p. 257), rise the Beni Yenni Mts. (p. 257). About 4½ M. beyond Fort-National a rough road diverges to the left to (20 min.) the small hill-village of _Icherridêne_ (3494 ft.) and the _Monument d’Icherridêne_, erected by the French in memory of the decisive battles of 1857 and 1871. Near the pyramid we obtain a splendid distant *View. We may descend to the highroad on the other side. For a short distance the road skirts the E. margin of the hills and overlooks the hill-country of the _Aït Yahia_. It then ascends in windings, passing near the villages of _Azerou-Kellat_ and _Taskenfout_ on the right, to a height where the road to (20 min.) _Hôpital Ste. Eugénie_ and _Menguellet_ (p. 257) branches off to the right. 29½ M. =Michelet= (3543 ft.; Hôt. des Touristes or Calanchini, R. 3–3½, B. 1–1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr., clean and quite good; mule to the Tirourda Pass 4–5, to Tazmalt 6 fr.; pop. 200, chiefly French), the capital of the _Canton du Djurdjura_, one of the most thickly peopled districts in Algeria, is prettily situated, on the partly vine-clad S.W. slope of the hills, with fine views all around. From (½ hr.) the crest of the hill (4042 ft.), to which a path ascends to the left from the Hôtel des Touristes, we have an extensive *Panorama of the neighbouring Jurjura Mts., among which the Lalla Khedidja (see below) stands forth grandly, of the Massif Kabyle, the depression of the Sebaou Valley, and the distant coast hills. The view is peculiarly impressive in the early morning, when the snow-capped Jurjura and the green lower hills with their countless Kabylian villages protrude like islands from the sea of mist in the valleys. The *=Lalla Khedidja= (7572 ft.), the highest of the Jurjura Mts., may be ascended from Michelet by one of two different routes. One route is viâ _Souk el-Djemâa_ (p. 257), the hill-villages of _Aït-Saada_ (3055 ft.) and _Darna_ (3314 ft.; night-quarters), and the passes _Tizi Tirkabin_ (4587 ft.) and _Tizi n-Kouïlal_ (5178 ft.), near the sources of the _Oued el-Hammam_. The other route is viâ the _Tirourda Pass_ (p. 260), the village of _Aït-Ouabane_ (about 3380 ft.), in the basin between the offshoots of the _Azerou Tidjer_ (see below) and the _Azerou Madène_ (6401 ft.), and across the Tizi n-Kouïlal, where the mules are left behind. The ascent is, however, easier and shorter from Maillot (p. 251). A bridle-path leads thence to the (4½ hrs.) village of _Tala Rana_ (4508 ft.; night-quarters). Then 1 hr. through cedar-forest (see p. 210), and lastly an ascent on foot, over loose stones, in 2 hrs. more to the top, where three ruinous stone huts afford some shelter. The imposing view embraces the whole mountain region of Great Kabylia, the main ranges of Little Kabylia (p. 266), the Sahel valley (p. 266), the Chaîne des Biban (p. 270), and the extensive Hauts-Plateaux (p. 169). Early in the morning in clear weather we may descry, with the aid of a telescope, the white houses of Algiers, while the sea is visible in the direction of Bougie. In the height of summer, on seven Thursdays, hundreds of the neighbouring Kabyles make this ascent. Beyond Michelet begins the finest part of the road, which now rapidly nears the Jurjura range. After ½ hr. it skirts for a short time the E. slope of the range, where a path to the left diverges to the village of _Aït-Mellal_; then, returning to the W. slope, it passes close below the villages of _Tifferdout_ (3927 ft.) and _Tazerout_ (3884 ft.). The *View is particularly grand at a bend near the 53rd kilomètre-stone (33 M.), whence we observe a road-mender’s house in the foreground, at the foot of the bare _Azerou Tidjer_ (5745 ft.), which conceals the Lalla Khedidja. Opposite, on the hill beyond the head of the Oued Djemâa valley (p. 257), lie the three large villages of the _Beni Akbil_. 35 M. _Maison Cantonnière_ (4111 ft.; closed in winter). The road soon crosses (7 min.) the narrow saddle between the lower hills and the Azerou Tidjer, and is then carried along the abrupt E. slope of the latter by means of numerous embankments, galleries, and two short tunnels. On the left lies the deep-set _Tirourda Valley_, enlivened by herds of cattle in summer, with the village of _Tirourda_ (about 3870 ft.), viâ which the pass may sometimes be reached when the road is blocked with snow. Behind it rise the four bare peaks of _Jebel Tizibert_ (5754 ft.) and the pointed cone of the _Azerou n-Tohor_ (p. 260). The road at length pierces the E. margin of the _Azerou n-Tirourda_ (6437 ft.) by means of a cutting called the _Porte Civili_ after its engineer, and ascends in a curve to the pass. 39½ M. =Col de Tirourda= (5775 ft.), the most frequented pass in the Jurjura, where we have a striking view of the hills of the Sahel valley, the Chaîne des Babors (p. 266), and Chaîne des Biban (p. 270). Most travellers are satisfied with the ascent of the slight hill on the right of the road. The view is, however, much more extensive from the _Azerou n-Tirourda_ (see p. 259 and above), and still more so from the marabout on the _Azerou n-Tohor_ (6181 ft.), which may be scaled in ½ hr. from the _Piste de Chellata_, the road to the _Col de Chellata_ (4806 ft.; p. 251). The road descends from the pass in many windings into the valley of the _Oued Aghbalou_, called _Oued Tixiriden_ lower down, and beyond the (44½ M.) _Maison Cantonnière d’Aïn-Zebda_ crosses to the right bank. The small villages of _Selloum_ (about 2630 ft.) and _Tixiriden_ (about 1970 ft.) lie a little to the right. Near the 94th kilomètre-stone (58½ M.) we reach the road in the valley, above the left bank of the Sahel, about halfway between (65 M.) _Maillot_ and (63½ M.) _Tazmalt_ (p. 251). The direct descent to Tazmalt by the bridle-path is preferable to the long drive round by the road. 40. From Fort-National viâ Azazga to Bougie. 77½ M. ROAD. From Fort-National to Azazga 22 M. (no diligence); from Azazga to Yakouren 7½ M. (diligence at 10.30 a.m., in 1½ hr.); from Yakouren vià Taourirt-Ighil to Bougie about 48 M. (no conveyances). Carr. from Hôt. Lagarde (p. 254), at Tizi-Ouzou, viâ Fort-National to Bougie 150–275 fr.; from Tizi-Ouzou to the Tirourda Pass (R. 39), returning viâ Fort-National to Bougie 175–300 fr.—Carr. hired from Aug. Passicos (comp. p. 257) and those also in the opposite direction, from Bougie (p. 262), when hired to Azazga or Fort-National only are rather cheaper. The Azazga road between Fort-National and the Sebaou Valley is hardly less attractive, especially in the reverse direction, than that between Tizi-Ouzou and Fort-National, although lacking the mountain view. Between Azazga and Bougie our route leads partly through the forests of the Algerian Tell Atlas (cork-trees, evergreen oaks, etc.), now sadly thinned. _Fort-National_, see p. 257. The AZAZGA ROAD branches to the left from the Michelet road (R. 39) a few hundred yards from the S.E. gate of the town, and leads through vineyards into the picturesque valley of the _Oued Bou Aïmeur_, the deep incision between the hills inhabited by the _Oumalou_, on the E., and the _Aït-Akerma Mts._ on the W., on the crest of which stand a series of five villages. Behind us is a fine view of Fort-National, which remains in sight as far as (6¼ M.) _Fontaine-Fraîche_. The road now runs on the E. slope of the hill, through fig-gardens and olive-groves, soon in full view of the beautiful wooded valley of the _Oued Rabta_ to the right, and descends in short windings to the saddle between the Oumalou hills and the _Takorrabt Bou Achbatzene_ (981 ft.), crowned with a saint’s tomb. Sweeping round to the W. our road next enters the featureless _Sebaou Valley_ (p. 254), where it joins that on the left bank coming from Tizi-Ouzou. A branch to _Mékla_ diverges ½ M. farther on. About 5½ M. farther we cross the Sebaou and then pass through a eucalyptus avenue to the Tizi-Ouzou and Azazga road on the right bank, where we ascend rapidly through underwood and fields to— 22 M. =Azazga= (1418 ft.; Hôt. Gebhardt, R. 3, B. 1½, déj. or D. 3 fr.; Hôt. Vayssières, plainer, good cuisine; pop. largely Alsatian), a large village on the N.W. spurs of the wooded _Jebel Bou Hini_ (3327 ft.). The road ascends, soon affording a pleasant view as we look back to the Sebaou plain, through beautiful woods in the territory of the _Beni Ghobri_, to the saddle between Jebel Bou Hini on the right and _Jebel Zraïb_ (3061 ft.) on the left. 29½ M. _Yakouren_ (about 2460 ft.; tavern), a small French settlement, near the Kabyle village of that name. As we ascend to the (35 M.) _Col de Tagma_ (3094 ft.) we look back for the last time to a great part of the Massif Kabyle (p. 257) and the Jurjura Mts. Beyond the pass we enter the _Province of Constantine_ and descend through oak-forest and underwood, and then through fields and orchards, skirting for many miles the N. slope of the hills of the _Forêt de Tizi Oufellah_ (4285 ft.). The road runs high above the valley of the _Oued el-Hammam_, where many Kabylian villages are perched on hills or ensconced among rocks. These and the small baths of _Acif el-Hammam_ lie on the left. Passing at some distance from the _Forêt d’Akfadou_, the most famous of the oak-forests of Great Kabylia, the road next skirts the N. slope of _Jebel Toukra_ (4806 ft.). Then, affording a distant view of the fine hill-region of the _Oued Dahs_ to the left, it passes close to the large village of _K’Bouch_ on a hill and approaches the neglected oak-woods of the _Forêt de Taourirt-Ighil_. 50½ M. _Chalet de Taourirt-Ighil_ (about 2950 ft.; rustic but good, R. 2, déj. 3–4 fr.), a resort of sportsmen. Beyond the hamlet of _Taourirt-Ighil_ the old road descends to the S.E., in wide curves, overlooking on the right the valley of the _Fenaïa_ and the hills of the _Sahel Valley_ (p. 266), to the (54 M.) _Col de Talmetz_ (2703 ft.; road-mender’s house). A little below the pass we survey the upper valley of the _Oued el-Kseur_ (p. 262). In the distance rises _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262). Besides oak-forest we pass also through beautiful underwood, where the fragrant erica abounds, vying in spring with the macchia of Corsica. Next to the forest-zone comes the fertile hill-region above the Sahel valley, beyond which are seen the mountains of Little Kabylia (p. 266). Passing several Kabylian villages, the road descends in many windings to (64½ M.) the village of _El-Kseur_ (295 ft.; Hôt. de l’Union, rustic). 65 M. _El-Kseur-Amizour_, and thence to (80 M.) _Bougie_, see p. 252. The new Bougie road reaches, on the S. slope of _Jebel ou Chiouen_ (3289 ft.), the upper valley of the _Oued el-Kseur_, a dull, uninhabited forest region, and then nears the S. base of the bare _Jebel Arbalou_. Farther on, in the vale of the _Oued Rhir_, we cross the La Réunion and Toudja road (p. 252). =Toudja= (650–1000 ft.) is a group of Kabylian villages in the abundantly watered upper valley of the Oued Rhir and on the S.E. slope of _Jebel Toudja_ (1998 ft.), the E. spur of _Jebel Arbalou_ (4291 ft.), the latter of which may be scaled in 3–3½ hrs. Toudja is famed for its oranges. The modern Bougie, like the ancient Saldæ (p. 263), is supplied with water from the springs of Toudja. The _Roman Aqueduct_ was 13 M. long; remains of its pillars are still to be seen on the _Col d’El-Hanaïat_ (about 1475 ft.), ½ hr. to the N.E. of Toudja. Lastly we descend into the vale of the _Oued Srir_ (p. 252) and reach (77½ M.) _Bougie_ (see below). 41. Bougie. RAILWAY STATION (Pl. B, 3), in the plain, to the W. of the old town, not far from the Kasba hill. ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers of the Comp. Générale Transatlantique (RR. 20, 22; office on the quay) anchor close to the Jetée Abd el-Kader (Pl. D, 3). Landing or embarkation 30, trunk 30–60 c.; small articles free. HOTELS (comp. p. 174). _Hôt. de France & Royal_ (Pl. a; C, 2), Chemin de l’Hôpital, quiet, R. 4–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 12–14, omn. 1 fr.—_Hôt. d’Orient_ (Pl. b; C, 2), R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 10½–13½, omn. ½ fr.; _Hôt. des Voyageurs_ (Pl. c; C, 2), poor; these two in Rue Trézel, with splendid view. CAFÉ. _Richelieu_, with terrace, Rue Trézel. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. 3; B, 3), Place Gueydon, corner of Rue Trézel.—BANKS. _Banque de l’Algérie_, next to the post-office; _Comp. Algérienne_, etc. CARRIAGES let out by _Spiteri_, _Pacce_, and _Ali ben Abdelkrim Frères_. Arrangements should be made personally with these or the drivers.—MOTOR CARS let out by _Vogelweith_, Rue Jeanne d’Arc.—MOTOR OMNIBUS, Messageries Automobiles Djidjelliennes.—DILIGENCE OFFICES, Place Gueydon and Rue Trézel. SEA BATHS in the bay of Sidi Yahia (p. 264). ONE DAY (when time is limited). In the morning, visit to Cape Carbon (p. 264); in the afternoon, walk round the town and the bay of Sidi Yahia. Photographing and sketching in or around Bougie are prohibited. The quiet seaport-town of _Bougie_ (pop. 11,000, of whom 6000 are Mohammedans and 600 Jews), defended by several forts, rises in terraces on the W. shore of the bay of that name, at the S. base of the steep _Jebel Gouraya_ (p. 265). The _Anse de Bougie_ or _d’Abd el-Kader_, a small bay between two headlands, the _Kasba Hill_ to the W. and the _Bridja Hill_ to the E., forms the harbour. The so-called _Darsenâa_ (see p. 90), the ancient Roman and Moorish harbour adjoining the plain to the W. of the Kasba Hill, and near the industrial suburb close to the station, is now choked with the deposits of the Oued Sahel (p. 251). The upper part of the Kasba Hill to the N., above the new French quarters, is the _Ville Indigène_ or Kabylian quarter (Pl. A, B, 1, 2), whose red-tiled stone huts resemble those of the villages of Great Kabylia (p. 252). A second native quarter, the _Faubourg des Cinq-Fontaines_ (Pl. B, C, 1), lies in the upper part of the valley, between the two hills. [Illustration: Port BOUGIE] The environs of Bougie, owing to the copious winter rainfall (p. 170), are remarkable for their luxuriant vegetation and their splendid timber. The town is most beautiful in spring, when the gardens don their freshest verdure and the terraces and slopes are gorgeously carpeted with bougainvilleas. In winter the blue bay contrasts most picturesquely with the snow-clad mountains of Little Kabylia (p. 266). Under the Carthaginians Bougie, like Igilgili (Djidjelli), was probably one of the chief seaports on this part of the coast, but its Punic name is unknown. In the Roman period, under the name of _Saldae_, it was the principal town on the bay. Its present name (Ital. and Span. _Bugia_) is derived from the Berber tribe of the _Bejaïa_ or _Bujaïa_, who settled in the vicinity in the 10th century. The town attained its brief prime in the middle ages, and was one of the most flourishing of the minor Moorish principalities when under the sway of the _Hammadites_ (1090–1152), fugitives from Kalàa des Beni-Hammad (p. 270). The Pisans, the Genoese, and the Venetians had their factories here. Wax being the chief export, the French still call their wax-candles _bougies_ (originally, in Ital., candele di Bugia). From the 15th cent. down to the French occupation, save during the Spanish period (1510–55), when it afforded an asylum to Emp. Charles V. on his retreat from Algeria (1541; comp. p. 221), it was a notorious haunt of the barbaresque pirates. The recent improvement of the harbour is expected to revive the ancient prosperity of the place. The finest mediæval building in the town is the dilapidated =Porte Sarrasine= (Pl. C, 2; Arabic _Bâb el-Bahar_, sea-gate), probably a relic of the town-walls erected by the governor En-Nasr, in 1067, extending along the top of the two headlands, up to the Plateau des Ruines (p. 265). Since the 16th cent. the bay has been commanded by the _Kasba_ (Pl. B, 3), a fortification of the Spanish period, and the ruinous (originally Turkish?) _Fort Abd el-Kader_ (Pl. D, 2, 3) on the rocky summit of the Bridja Hill. Both are now barracks (no adm.). The =Harbour=, exposed to the infrequent N. and N.E. winds only, one of the ‘least bad’ in Algeria, and now 65 acres in area, was improved in 1905–9 by the extension of the _Jetée Abd el-Kader_ (Pl. D, 3; a fine point of view), by the formation of a quay at the Pointe de la Kasba, and by the construction of the _Jetée du Large_, an outer breakwater, 525 yds. long. The town is entered from the harbour either by the Boul. des Cinq-Fontaines (Pl. C, 2, 1) or by the Rue de la Marine (Pl. C, 2) and Rue Duvivier, all ascending to the Rue Trézel. From the railway-station we ascend to the Place de l’Arsenal by the Rampe of that name (Pl. A, B, 2). The RUE TRÉZEL (Pl. B, C, 2), which ascends to the S.W. from the lower ground to the Kasba Hill, is the only fairly animated street in the town. On the left is the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. 2; C, 2), which contains a few antiquities, including a Roman mosaic (Oceanus and the Nereids) found near the hospital. The Fountain in front of the Hôtel de Ville has a hexagonal column with a Roman inscription in three parts recording the building of the aqueduct (p. 262). The PLACE GUEYDON (Pl. B, 2, 3), the focus of traffic, named after Admiral Gueydon (governor of Algeria, 1870–3), and adorned with a _Monument_ (a genius in bronze), affords a splendid *View of the bay from the parapet. From the Rue Trézel we cross the Place de l’Arsenal (Pl. B, 2) and ascend the Rue Fatima to the booths of the _Kabylian Market_ and to the Kabylian quarter, the chief boast of which is the pretty _Mosque_ (Pl. A, B, 2), completed in 1902. Close by is the _Porte Fouka_ (Pl. A, 2), the substructions of which are ancient. _Fort Barral_ (Pl. B, 2; formerly _Fort Moussa_), to the E. of the Rue du Gouraya (p. 265), dates from the Spanish period. Behind the Hôpital Civil are the _Citernes Romaines_ (Pl. B, 1; 509 ft.), which have been frequently altered. These and a few fragments of the _Roman Town Walls_ are the sole memorials of antiquity. The Rampe des Spahis (Pl. B, 2, 1) descends to the _Cinq-Fontaines_ (Pl. C, 1), a Mauro-Turkish fountain in the valley, whence the Chemin de Bridja leads to the _Porte du Cimetière_ (Pl. C, 1), the town-gate on the Bridja Hill. A charming walk is afforded by the road from the gate just named, passing the _Jewish Burial Ground_ (Pl. D, 1), and descending in windings through olive and carob groves and ruins of old fortifications, to the beautiful =Anse de Sidi-Yahia=. Thence, at the lime-kiln and cement-works, we may either turn to the right and go through the tunnel under Fort Abd el-Kader (p. 263) back to the harbour, or we may follow the coast-road (p. 265) leading to the E. to the bay of Les Aiguades. * * * * * The *EXCURSION TO CAPE CARBON (there and back 3½–4 hrs.) is best made on foot or by mule (3 fr., attendant 1 fr.). We leave the town by the Porte du Cimetière and follow the rough road to the N.E., passing (on the left) the _Catholic Cemetery_ (Pl. C, D, 1), and ascending amidst rich vegetation on the E. slope of _Jebel Gouraya_ (p. 265). Passing the pleasant path which diverges to the Petit Phare (482 ft.) on _Cape Bouak_, we soon reach the _Vallée des Singes_, whence we look down on the peaceful _Anse des Aiguades_ (p. 265), and the (1 hr.) _Pic des Singes_, on whose steep rocky slopes we may often see monkeys disporting themselves (comp. p. 171). Just beyond the short rock-tunnel, where the road ends, we obtain a superb **View of =Cape Carbon= (722 ft.), whose limestone precipices, descending sheer on every side, are crowned with a semaphore and the old lighthouse. We cross the low saddle between the _Anse des Salines_ (see below) on the left and the bay bounded by Cape Carbon and the Cape Noir (p. 130) on the right, and ascend past the _Old Lighthouse_ to the (20 min.) *_Semaphore_, from whose flat roof we have a splendid survey of the bay and of the bold coast of Great Kabylia as far as the _Ile Pisan_ (p. 130). From the saddle just mentioned a path descends to the _New Lighthouse_ at the foot of Cape Carbon. The beautiful new *COAST ROAD leads round the _Anse de Sidi-Yahia_ (p. 264), passing the marabout of that name and the large quarries and skirting the abrupt slopes of _Cape Bouak_ (p. 264). It pierces the point of the cape by means of a short tunnel, and ends, beyond the old pumping-works, at the *=Anse des Aiguades=. Its extension to the new lighthouse at Cape Carbon is projected.—When the sea is calm we may row from the harbour of Bougie (4–5 fr.; bargain necessary), past Cape Bouak and through the _Roche Percée_ at Cape Carbon, to the _Anse_ and the _Pointe des Salines_, with the _Grotte Ste. Anne_. On the return we may for variety land in the Anse des Aiguades and walk back to Bougie by the coast-road. The ascent of =Jebel Gouraya= (2166 ft.) takes 2–2½ hrs. on foot or 1¾ hr. by mule (3 fr., and fee of 1 fr.). We first follow the Rue du Gouraya and Chemin du Gouraya, or else a road on the Bridja Hill above the _Faubourg des Cinq-Fontaines_, to the Porte du Grand Ravin (Pl. B, 1). A steep road ascends thence in windings, through underwood, to the _Plateau des Ruines_, where there is a _Pénitencier_ for military convicts. Hence a path leads in ½ hr. to the small _Fort du Gouraya_, within which is the shrine of _Lalla Gouraya_. We then ascend to the right, round the fort, to the cairn on the W. peak, where we are rewarded with a charming view of the bay, the lower Sahel valley, the coast of Great Kabylia as far as Cape Sigli (p. 130), and Jebel Arbalou (p. 262). Excursion to _Toudja_ (carr. 20–30 fr.), and drive viâ Taourirt-Ighil to _Azazga_ (and Fort-National), see pp. 262, 261. 42. From Bougie through the Chabet el-Akra to Sétif. 72 M. ROAD. Motor-omnibus (p. 262) from Bougie at 6 a.m., in 7½ hrs. (to Kerrata, déjeuner station, in 4¾ hrs.); from Sétif at 7 a.m., in 6½ hrs.; fare 25 fr. 20 or 12 fr. 20 c. (to Kerrata 11 or 4 fr.); luggage at the rate of 10 fr. per 100 kilos (220 lbs.) for every 100 kilomètres (62 M.). Also a diligence to Kerrata, both from Bougie and from Sétif: from Bougie at 3.30 a.m., in 7½ hrs., from Sétif, at 5 a.m., in 6 hrs. (allowing an hour for lunch at Kerrata, 11–12); fare for the whole journey 15 fr. (intérieur 8 fr.). Those who do not care for the unattractive drive from Kerrata to Sétif, where there is direct correspondence in the direction of Constantine and Biskra only, or who are bound for Djidjelli, will return at once from Kerrata to Bougie.—Private carr. from one of the hirers at Bougie (p. 262) to Sétif about 100–140 fr. (or to Kerrata and back 50–60 fr.). Motor-car at Vogelweith’s (p. 262) ½ fr. per kilomètre Carr. from Sétif to Bougie 120, half-open (calaffe) 100 fr.; it is possible to drive all the way in one day, but in the reverse direction (Bougie to Sétif) it is best to spend a night at Oued-Marsa or Kerrata. The road skirts the gulf of Bougie (p. 130) all the way to the deep depression of the Agrioun Valley. Between Bougie and Kerrata it passes through the finest scenery of =Little Kabylia= or _Petite Kabylie_, a wooded hill-region, thinly peopled by Berber tribes. The _Chaîne des Babors_, the higher mountains, unlike those of the Jurjura (p. 258), rise but little over the intermediate hills. The _Chabet el-Akra_ is the grandest mountain-defile in Algeria. _Bougie_, see p. 262. The ROAD leads through the suburb at the station and then to the S.W. across the plain of the _Oued Srir_ (p. 252). Passing through the featureless plain on the right bank of the _Oued Sahel_ (p. 251), we obtain retrospects, growing finer as we advance, of Bougie and Cape Bouak and then of Cape Noir and Cape Carbon also. We soon reach the vine-clad coast-plain on the verge of the wooded hills of _Little Kabylia_, where the cork-oak abounds, and for a time turn away from the sea. Halfway between Bougie and Cape Aokas the coast-plain narrows. High above the rocky shore the road mounts a spur of the _Beni Mimoun Djoua Mts._, and then the (10½ M.) _Pointe Tichi_, an offshoot of the _Beni Amrous_ hills, beyond which it descends, in view of the picturesque Cape Aokas and the coast as far as Cape Cavallo (p. 267), into the vine-clad valley of the _Oued Djemâa_. At the (12½ M.) bridge over the stony bed of the stream, we observe up the valley the _Beni Slimane Mts._ (4160 ft.) and those of _Beni Bou Aïssi_, with the lofty _Jebel Imoulentaour_ (5715 ft.). Beyond the Djemâa valley begins one of the finest parts of the coast. The hills again come down close to the shore. The road passes the handsome _Villa Poizat_, with its great wine-cellars, and crosses the wild _Oued Zitoun_. On the slope above the torrent is a pretty farm-dwelling, nestling among eucalypti, bananas, and bamboos. We next round the _Cône d’Aokas_ (1519 ft.), precipitous all round, and come to a bend in the road at (15 M.) _Cape Aokas_, where we have a beautiful *View of the whole bay. Just before the village of _Oued-Marsa_, 6 min. beyond the cape, is the prettily situated little _Hôt. du Cap Aokas_ (R. 2½–3, B. 1, déj. or D. 3½ fr., quite good). The road now enters the broad coast-plain between the _Oued Marsa_ and the Oued Agrioun, lately brought under cultivation, overlooked by the _Beni Hassain Mts._ (4567 ft.), and still showing a few vestiges of the primæval _Forêt d’Acherit_, a swampy region notorious for malaria. We cross the _Oued Sidi Réhane_ and pass the village of that name, with its kubba shaded by venerable trees. A double tunnel under the bed of the torrential _Oued Sidi Resgoun_ next brings us to the broad mouth of the _Oued Agrioun_. 22 M. _Souk et-Tenine_ (Hôt. des Voyageurs, déj. 1½ fr., poor), the Monday market of the Beni Hassain, lies on a low hill at the entrance to the Agrioun valley. The road ascends on the left bank of the valley, flanked with cork-trees and beautiful underwood. The road to _Djidjelli_ diverges at the 36th kilomètre-stone (22½ M.) to the left from the Sétif road. The beautiful DJIDJELLI ROAD (from Bougie 60 M.; motor-omnibus daily, fare 14 fr. 30 or 10 fr. 30 c.; diligence daily at 5 a.m., in the reverse direction at 4 a.m., in 12 hrs., fare 10 or 7 fr.; provisions should be taken for the journey) continues to skirt the bay of Bougie, passing at places through fine old forest of cork-trees, pines, etc., thickly overgrown with creepers. It crosses the Oued Agrioun beyond the 36th kilomètre-stone and the _Oued Boulzazène_, and then returns, to the N.E., to the coast. Near the 42nd kilomètre-stone (26 M.) begin the *_Grandes Falaises_, a series of bold cliffs, extending along the coast for 1¼ M., through which the road is tunnelled at places. Fine view of the bay behind us, as far as Jebel Gouraya. We next skirt two secluded bays, separated by _Jebel Afoerer_ (473 ft.), pass the _Pointe Ziama_ (450 ft.), and cross the _Oued Ziama_. 32 M. _Ziama_ consists of a group of settlers’ dwellings near the site of _Choba_, a Roman seaport, where there are still considerable remains of the Roman town-walls, of baths dating from 196 A. D., and of the Byzantine ramparts. Beyond the cliffs of _Pointe Mansouria_ (hotel), off which rises the rocky islet of that name, we come to (37½ M.) the mouth of the _Oued Guelil_ or _Dar el-Oued_, near the stalactite _Grottes de Mansouria_ or _de Dar el-Oued_, discovered in 1901. The chief grotto, 165 yds. long and 16 ft. high, is lighted with acetylene (adm. 1 fr.). Passing several caverns on the coast, we next skirt the small _Anse de Taza_, at the mouth of the _Oued Taza_, which, farther up, has carved out a grand defile through the S. margin of _Jebel Taounnart_ (2546 ft.). Partly through cuttings and tunnels, the road now leads to (47½ M.) the village of _Cavallo_, near _Cape Cavallo_ (p. 130), the E. limit of the bay of Bougie. Near it are large granite-quarries. Off the rocky coast lie on the left the islets of _Grand_ and _Petit Cavallo_ (p. 131). 50½ M. _Montaigne_ or _Agadie_ is the only European settlement on this part of the coast. A little beyond the _Oued Kissir_ a road diverges to the left to the lighthouse on the _Râs Afla_ (p. 131). Our road skirts the wooded flanks of _Jebel Mes Ritan_ or _Mezritane_ (1294 ft.), and at the _Anse el-Kalâa_ sweeps round to the S., inland. Lastly, passing the small _Anse des Beni-Caïd_ (see below), it reaches the Porte de Bougie, the W. gate of— 60 M. =Djidjelli= (Café de France, R. 2 fr., déj. or D. 2 fr., quite good; pop. 6400, incl. 5000 Mohammedans), a poor seaport, consisting mainly of two streets planted with fine plane-trees. This was the ancient _Igilgili_, once an important mart of the Carthaginians, which in the middle ages long retained its trade as the seat of a Genoese factory, but after its occupation by Horuk Barbarossa (p. 221) became a mere den of pirates. The small _Harbour_, open towards the E., and inadequately sheltered on the N. and N.E. sides, admits lighters and fishing-boats only. On the adjacent _Crique de l’Ouest_ rise the _Citadel_ and the _Poudrière_, an old fort. At the _Vigie_, the clock-tower on the neighbouring aloe-clad hill, we enjoy a charming view of the hill-region around, noted in spring for its gorgeous wealth of flowers, backed by _Jebel Sedderts_ (3153 ft.) to the E. and by the inland hills of Little Kabylia. To the W. of the town, particularly on the headland between the Anse des Beni-Caïd and the Anse el-Kalâa (see above), are many _Punic Rock Tombs_, now empty. A highroad leads from Djidjelli to (42½ M.) _El-Milia_, (84½ M.) _Collo_ (p. 131), and (95½ M.) _Robertville_ (p. 303; motor-omnibus in 10 hrs., fare 25 fr. 30 or 20 fr. 30 c.); another viâ (66 M.) _Mila_ (Hôt. du Commerce, R. 2 fr., déj. or D. 2 fr., tolerable), the Roman _Mileum_ (with an interesting, well-preserved Byzantine town-wall), to (102½ M.) _Constantine_ (p. 297).—Railway viâ El-Milia and Mila to Constantine projected. The SÉTIF ROAD ascends gradually to the S., on the left bank of the wooded Agrioun valley, at the E. base of the hills of the Beni Hassain (p. 266). On the opposite bank, on the slope of the finely shaped _Jebel Beni Bou Youssef_ (3061 ft.), runs the new mineral railway of Tadergount (see below). 25 M. _Aux Deux-Fontaines_ (about 410 ft.; inn). The road ascends more steeply, high above the river-bed. At a bend just before the 43rd kilomètre-stone we have a splendid survey of the central Agrioun valley, enclosed in a semicircle by the lofty and barren crests of the _Chaîne des Babors_. The road then descends to the S.W. into the valley again. To the left we look into the lateral valley of the _Oued Tiraz_, with the iron-glance mines of _Tadergount_, on the slope of _Jebel Beni Felkaï_ (4452 ft.). Wild oleanders abound in the bed of the Agrioun. On the wayside are several Kabylian huts with orange and fig-gardens. Beyond the 49th kilomètre-stone we see, high above us, on the right, _Beni-Ismaïl_ or _Smaïl_, a mission-house of the White Fathers (p. 247) called after the tribe of that name, placed near a waterfall between Jebel Imoulentaour (p. 266) and _Jebel Takoucht_ (6221 ft.). Beyond the 50th kilomètre-stone (31 M.) two massive pillars of rock mark the lower end (about 590 ft.) of the **=Chabet el-Akra=, the grand ‘ravine of death’ (4½ M. long), between the bold and partly bush-clad Jurassic rocks of Jebel Takoucht, on the W., and _Jebel Adrar Amellal_ (5817 ft.) and _Kef Randek_, on the E. An inscription on the rock to the right records the construction of the extremely costly road (1863–70). Monkeys (p. 171) are sometimes seen on the hill-sides. Near the 54th kilomètre-stone (33½ M.) the road crosses the stream, which dashes over huge rocks far below the bridge, whence we have a fine view down the valley. About ½ M. farther the valley again contracts to a narrow defile. An inscription on a slab of rock in the bed of the stream recalls the first march of French troops through the gorge (1864). In the foreground rises a great rocky cone called the *_Pain de Sucre_ (Arabic _Drâ-Kalawi_), apparently closing the valley. Passing some strange rock-dislocations, with vertical strata, we reach (35½ M.) the upper end of the gorge. 37½ M. =Kerrata= (1575 ft.; Hôt. du Chabet, R., déj., D., each 2½–4 fr., very fair; Hôt. de Kerrata, humble; Tues. market), a village of the _Beni Meraï_ tribe, lies in a bleak hill-plain, adjoining the stony S. slope of the Chaîne des Babors. FROM KERRATA VI AÏN-ABESSA TO SÉTIF, 34 M., pleasanter, by carr. or cycle, than the main road viâ El-Ouricia, particularly in the reverse direction. This road leaves the highroad near (3¾ M.) the mouth of the _Oued Atteba_, one of the sources of the Agrioun, ascends its valley, and crosses a pass to (17½ M.) _Aïn-Talaouart_. Here to the right diverges the so-called Route des Caravansérails to the little town of _Aïn-Roua_ (3806 ft.), at the foot of _Jebel Anini_ (5243 ft.), noted for its mineral wealth, and to the sulphur-baths of _Hammam-Guergour_ or _Sidi el-Djoudi_, in the _Massif de Guergour_, which were already known to the Romans. From Aïn-Talaouart our road turns to the S.E. and ascends past the (20½ M.) village of _Aïn-Abessa_ (3616 ft.; Hôt. Copel) to the saddle (4019 ft.) between _Jebel Megriss_ (5700 ft.) and _Jebel Matrona_ (4679 ft.). Descending to the _Oued Bou Sellam_ (p. 251) the road here rejoins, a little before (30 M.) _Fermatou_ (see below), the main road to (34 M.) Sétif. The highroad ascends out of the Agrioun valley, soon offering a glimpse of _Jebel Babor_ (6575 ft.) on the left, and mounts in windings, to the S.E., through a once wooded hill-region to the (48 M.) _Tizi N’Béchar_ (2910 ft.), 1¼ M. below the large Berber village of _Takitount_ (3448 ft.), and 2 M. to the W. of _Aïn el-Hamda_, a village noted for its mineral water, known as ‘eau de Takitount’. We descend from the pass to (52½ M.) _Amoucha_ (Hôt. des Voyageurs, déj. 3½ fr.), in the upper valley of the Agrioun. A road leads to the S.E. from Amoucha to (7½ M.) =Périgotville=, the chief village in the Canton de Takitount, on the _Oued Aïn-Kebira_. It lies on the site of the small Roman town of _Satafis_. The school-yard contains a few antiquities. Diligence viâ _El-Ouricia_ (see below) to _Sétif_ (p. 271). As the road ascends we have another view of Jebel Babor. It winds up to the S. to the (59½ M.) _Teniet et-Tine_ (3806 ft.), a pass on the N. margin of the plateau of Sétif (p. 271) commanding fine views, and then descends to (64½ M.) _El-Ouricia_ (3543 ft.), a village near the head of the _Oued Bou Sellam_ valley (p. 251), with a few vineyards. 68 M. _Fermatou_, at the mouth of the brook of that name. 72 M. _Sétif_, see p. 271. 43. From Algiers to Constantine viâ Beni-Mansour, Sétif, and El-Guerrah. 288½ M. RAILWAY (comp. p. 173). Two express trains daily in 12¼–12¾ hrs. (fares 51 fr. 95, 37 fr. 10, 27 fr. 85 c.), one in the morning (with dining-car), the other in the evening (sleeping-berth 15 fr. extra). _El-Guerrah_ is the junction for Biskra (R. 44); _Le Khroub_ for Bona (R. 48) and Souk-Ahras (and Tunis; RR. 49, 51). Railway Restaurants at Bouïra, Beni-Mansour, Sétif, El-Guerrah, and Le Khroub. From Algiers to (107 M.) _Beni-Mansour_, see R. 37. The train now leaves the Sahel valley (p. 251), enters, to the S., the valley of the _Oued Mahrir_, and passes through a series of gorges flanked with blackish limestone rocks, between the hills of the _Beni Abbès_ on the left and the _Beni Mansour_ on the right, here almost uninhabited. To the left we have a final glimpse of the Jurjura range (p. 258) behind us. 115 M. _Les Portes-de-Fer_, the first station in the province of Constantine, with a Sunday market, lies at the entrance of the two passes over the _Chaîne des Biban_ (pl. of _bâb_, gate) or _Chabet es-Sétif_. These are the *_Grande-Porte_ (Arabic _Bâb el-Kebîr_), through which flows the _Oued Chebba_, the main branch of the Oued Mahrir, and the _Petite-Porte_ (_Bâb es-Serîr_), the ravine of its tributary the _Oued Bou-Ketoun_. The train runs through the former of these passes, a grand defile, where the rocks are curiously stratified. 125 M. _Mzita_ (1811 ft.) lies in a bleak plain on the S. margin of the Chaîne des Biban. The train now ascends rapidly to the S.E., between _Jebel Mzita_ (4813 ft.) on the left and _Jebel Kteuf_ (6109 ft.) on the right, to (130 M.) _Mansoura_ (2297 ft.), a village of immigrant peasants, with a sulphur-spring. Leaving the Chebba valley, we next pass, to the E., through a tunnel of 2405 yds. (5 min.) into the _Medjana_, a lofty and unattractive plain on the N. borders of the _Monts du Hodna_ (see below). 149 M. =Bordj-Bou-Arréridj= (3002 ft.; Hôt. des Voyageurs, unpretentious; pop. 3500, incl. many Alsatian settlers; Wed. market), a small town adjoined by a large Berber village. This is the best starting-point for the highly attractive TOUR TO BOU-SAÂDA, which vies in interest with the excursions to Figuig (p. 204), Ghardaïa (p. 216), and Biskra (p. 279). The road (78 M.; diligence at 4.30 a.m., in 17 hrs.; fare 10 fr. 10 or 6 fr. 60 c.; returning from Bou-Sâada at 5 p.m.) turns to the S. into the valley of the _Oued Ksob_, flanked on the W. and E. by _Jebel Gourin_ (3400 ft.) and _Jebel Mâadid_ (6112 ft.). The stream, having forced a passage through the _Monts du Hodna_, the N. borders of the lofty steppe, where phosphates abound, is afterwards called _Oued M’Sila_ and falls into the Chott el-Hodna (see below). In the E. side-valley of the _Oued Oucedjiit_, 2 M. off the road, and 8 M. from Bordj-Bou-Arréridj, lies _Lecourbe_ or _Ouled-Agla_, with scanty vestiges of the Roman _Equizetum_ (?). On the S. edge of Jebel Mâadid, about 9½ M. to the E. of the road, or reached from Bordj-Bou-Arréridj by diligence viâ (19 M.) _Bordj-R’dir_ (very poor inn), lie the extensive ruins (palaces, minaret, etc.) of the Berber town of _Kalâa des Beni-Hammad_, the residence of the Hammadites in 1001–90 (p. 263). At (36 M.) the little town of _M’Sila_ (1539 ft.; Hôt. Duhoux, Hôt. Reyre, both poor) we reach the _Plaine du Hodna_, a vast steppe, very hot in summer, notable for its abundance of game and the thousands of camels which browse on the extensive pastures. We cross several river-beds, where curious rose-shaped crystals, ‘roses of the desert’, are often found, and descend gradually past several artesian wells to the S.E. to the _Chott el-Hodna_ (1312 ft.), a vast salt-lake, 44 M. long and 12½ M. broad at its widest part, whose swampy shores are enlivened by countless water-fowl. Between this lake and Bou-Saâda we pass several shifting sand-hills. 78 M. =Bou-Saâda= (1903 ft.; cafés-hotels: Bailly, R. 2½–3, B. ¾–1, déj. or D. 2½–3, pens. from 5 fr., all according to bargain; Aragonés; pop. 7000, mostly Arabs, Mozabites, as to whom see p. 216, and Jews), the chief scene of the ‘lettres familières’ of Col. Pein (p. 175) and for ages a favourite resort of French painters of Oriental subjects, is most charmingly grouped round the Kasba hill (a fine point of view). The dates of its little *Palm Oasis rival those of the Sahara. Busy Monday and Tuesday markets. An important caravan-route (69½ M.; diligence every other day in 15 hrs.; 12 or 10 fr.; provisions necessary) connects Bou-Saâda with _Djelfa_ (p. 215). To the E. of the road, 9½ M. to the S. of Bou-Saâda, on the Oued Bou-Saâda, lies the zaouïa of _El-Hamel_, a famous seminary for priests, where good quarters are obtainable. From Bou-Saâda to _Aumale_, see pp. 251, 250. The train now turns to the S.E., in view of the Hodna Mts. (p. 270) to the right, crosses several affluents of the _Oued Ksob_ (p. 270), and passes unimportant stations. 164 M. _Aïn-Tassera_ (3395 ft.). Thence to the N.E. to (168 M.) _Tixter-Tocqueville_, the station for _Tocqueville_ (Arabic _Râs el-Oued_), 8½ M. to the S., the ancient Roman _Thamalla_, with remains of a Byzantine fortress, and beds of phosphate near it. On the left, farther on, we have a view of the _Massif de Guergour_ (p. 269), usually snow-clad in winter. We then enter the valley of the _Oued Bou Sellam_ (p. 251). 176½ M. _Hammam_; 184½ M. _Mesloug_, in the _Plateau de Sétif_, one of the granaries of Algeria, but often bitterly cold in winter. 191½ M. =Sétif.=—_Rail. Restaurant._—HOTELS (comp. p. 174), all in the Rue de Constantine: _Hôt, de France_, R. 3½–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; _Hôt. de Paris_, R. from 2, déj. or D. 2 fr., plain but quite good; _Hôt. d’Orient_, similar charges.—_Brasserie Gambrinus_, in the Hôt. de France.—MOTOR OMNIBUS viâ Kerrata to _Bougie_ (comp. p. 265).—DILIGENCES to _Bougie_, to _Hammam-Guergour_ (p. 269) viâ Aïn-Roua, and to _Périgotville_ (p. 269). _Sétif_ (3596 ft.; pop. 21,790, incl. 7800 Mohammedans and 1800 Jews), on one of the highest sites in Algeria, stands on a slight eminence to the N.W. of the station. It was the _Sitifis_ of the Romans, which became the capital of the new province of _Mauretania Sitifensis_ in 297 (comp. p. 244), but after the irruption of the Arabs it lost all importance. Horse-breeding is one of the chief resources of the natives, and the horse-races are famous. From the suburb near the station we enter the town through the Porte de Constantine. Near the Porte d’Alger, in the Place Nationale, adorned with a fountain, rise the _Hôtel de Ville_ and the new _Mosque_. In the _Jardin d’Orléans_, outside the Porte d’Alger, are a few Roman antiquities (altars, tombstones, etc.). The old Byzantine fortress with its eleven towers, to the N. of the town, has been converted into the _Quartier Militaire_. Outside the Porte de Biskra, where the Marché Arabe is held daily, lies a large _Berber Village_ with thatched houses. On the old Roman road to Saldæ (Bougie), which runs past the E. side of the Jardin d’Orléans (see above), about 1 M. to the N.W. of the town, rises the _Mausolée de Sétif_ (popularly called Tombeau de Scipion), a rectangular edifice, 10 by 8 yds., on a basement with two steps, one of the best-preserved Roman tombs in Algeria. From Sétif through the _Chabet el-Akra_ to _Bougie_, see R. 42. The region between Sétif and El-Guerrah is one of the dreariest in Algeria. 200 M. _Chasseloup-Laubat_ (3445 ft.). 210½ M. _St. Arnaud_ (3117 ft.; Hôt, de la Gare, poor), a small town of 2100 inhab., on the N. border of the barren _Plaine des Eulmas_, with its small salt-lakes, continued to the N.E. by the _Plateau des Sbakh_ (p. 274). The EXCURSION TO DJEMILA, 19 M. to the N. of St. Arnaud, toilsome but very repaying, is best made in one day, as there are no good night-quarters on the route. We start very early, by mule, carrying a supply of food. We follow the highroad to _Sillègue_ (diligence in the aft.) as far as the (12 M.) crossing of the bridle-path from Sétif, and ride thence to the N.E. in about 2 hrs. to =Djemila=, a poor Berber village on a narrow and lofty plateau amid barren mountains. This was once the Roman _Cuicul_, whose ruins, partially excavated of late, are the finest memorials in Algeria of the late-Roman epoch. The W. entrance to the forum was the _Arch of Caracalla_, a single gateway 40 ft. high, of the year 216, recently marred by a buttress for its support. On the S.E. side of the forum is a _Temple_, of which part of the peribolos (55 by 37 yds.) and the walls of the cella alone survive. To the N.W. of the forum are remains of a _Fountain_. In the S.W. part of the ancient town are the ruins of _Thermae_. The *_Theatre_, which originally had 24 tiers of seats, is remarkable for its well-preserved stage, 37 by 8 yds., and still 19 ft. in height, the front-wall being similar to that of Timgad (p. 293) or of Khamissa, etc. 220 M. _Navarin_ (3170 ft.; Arabic _Bîr el-Arkh_); 228 M. _St. Donat_ (2812 ft.), on the _Rhumel_ (p. 297). 239 M. _Mechta-Châteaudun_, station for _Châteaudun-du-Rhumel_ (2625 ft.), a small town 5½ M. to the N., on the Sétif and Constantine road, with a great Thursday cattle-market. Near it are extensive pastures, enlivened in summer by thousands of Sahara nomads with their herds of camels. 250½ M. _Oued-Séguin-Télergma_ (2480 ft.), in the _Plaine de Télergma_, where the neighbouring garrisons have their summer training. It is the station for (5½ M.) the little town of _Oued-Séguin_ (2474 ft.), on the river of that name, a tributary of the Rhumel, and for _Oued-Athménia_, with the splendid thermæ of the Roman villa of Pompeianus, and _Aïn-Smara_, with its marble quarries, two villages on the Sétif and Constantine road. 265½ M. =El-Guerrah= (2412 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. de la Gare, R. 3, D. 3½ fr., quite good), junction of the line from Constantine to Batna and Biskra (R. 44), lies on the _Garah_ or _Guerrah_, one of the sources of the Oued Bou Merzoug (see below). The station occupies an isolated site on a steppe enclosed by barren mountains. Extensive view to the S.W. towards Batna. The Constantine train descends to the N.E. into the _Oued Bou Merzoug_ valley. 271½ M. _Ouled-Rahmoun_ (2264 ft.; Rail. Restaurant, plain), around which are many megalithic tombs. FROM OULED-RAHMOUN TO AÏN-BEÏDA AND KHENCHELA, 91½ M., narrow-gauge line in 5¾–6¼ hrs.; fares 15 fr. 80, 11 fr. 75, 8 fr. 85 c. (change at Aïn-Beïda). The line traverses a hilly steppe, ascending to the S.E. along the Oued Bou Merzoug, the main stream of which is called _Oued Kleb_ farther up. 7½ M. _Sigus_ (2523 ft.), on the site of the Roman town of that name, with scanty relics of a forum-basilica with three halls. Near it are a Roman and a contemporaneous Berber burial-ground, the latter containing many dolmens (p. 324) and also remains of old quarries. Beyond (20½ M.) _Aïn-Fakroun_ (3032 ft.) we ascend rapidly to the _Col d’Ourkis_ (about 3480 ft.), which crosses one of the offshoots of the _Plateau des Sbakh_ (p. 274). 41 M. _Canrobert_ (3041 ft.; Arabic _Um el-Buaghi_), at the S. base of _Jebel Sidi R’gheïss_ (5341 ft.; with argentiferous lead-mines). The line runs to the E., across an upland plain where ruins abound. 58 M. =Aïn-Beïda= (3307 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, Hôt. de Paris, both rustic; pop. 2400), in the territory of the _Haractas_, a large Berber tribe differing but slightly from Arabs, is the starting-point of a road (diligence in 11 hrs.; railway under construction) viâ (20 M.) _Meskiana_ to (52½ M.) _Tebessa_ (p. 315). The _Jardin Public_ contains several Roman inscriptions. From Aïn-Beïda the line turns to the S.W. towards the spurs of the _Aurès Mts._ (p. 278). Stations unimportant. 72½ M. _Tarf_, near the salt-works of the great salt-lake _Garaet et-Tarf_ (2723 ft.). Far to the left rises _Jebel Tafrent_, rich in phosphates. 83 M. _Baghaï_ (2914 ft.), on the _Oued Baghaï_, formerly _Bagai_, was one of the chief towns of the Donatists in the 4th cent. (Thamugadi being the other, p. 289), where in 394 a council of 310 Donatist bishops was held, but after the 12th cent. it fell to decay. The only memorial of its ancient importance is the ruinous _Ksar Baghaï_, a Byzantine fortress (built in the time of Justinian, after 539), 360 by 335 yds., with 25 towers. On the N.W. side is a castle dominated by a keep 84 ft. high.—The line then winds up to— 91½ M. =Khenchela= (3730 ft.; Hôt. de France, Hôt. du Square, both poor), a little town of 2900 inhab., once the Roman _Mascula_, the key of the E. Aurès passes, and still the starting-point of important caravan-routes to the Sahara. It carries on a thriving art-industry (manufacture of trinkets, etc.) and holds a busy Tuesday market. The Roman ruins were swept away when the present town was founded about 1860; but there is a small collection of antiquities (conservator M. Catalogne). Road to Timgad, Lambèse, and Batna, see p. 286. From that road another diverges to the left to (4½ M.) _Aïn-el-Hammam_ (about 3940 ft.), prettily situated in the wooded valley of the brook of that name, with a hot chalybeate spring (158° Fahr.). This was the _Aquae Flavianae_ of the Romans, whose *_Thermae_, probably erected under Vespasian, and restored under Septimius Severus in 208, the best-preserved in Barbary, are now again in use. We note specially the round hall, once domed, with its circular piscina 26 ft. in diameter, and the large open piscina, 45 by 33 ft., with two vaulted lateral passages, flanked with side-rooms and basins.—A bridle-path leads to the S.W. from Aïn-el-Hammam to (12½ M.) the forester’s house of _Aïn-Mimoun_ (4413 ft.), amidst fine cedar-woods (p. 210), whence we may descend to the N.E. to _Foum-Tizourit_ on the Batna road. 278½ M. =Le Khroub= (2051 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. Victoria, near the station; Hôt. d’Orient; pop. 9700, all Mohammedans but 500), the next station on the Constantine railway, has an important cattle-market. On a stony hill to the E. of the town (2527 ft.), about 1 hr. from the railway, rises the _Mausolée du Khroub_, called by the natives _Sauma_ (tower), the tomb of a Berber prince of pre-Roman times, built of huge blocks of stone in the Græco-Punic style. The square pedestal, resting on a basement in three steps, and part of the groundfloor adorned with round shields still exist. The upper story, which consisted of a hall resting on eight Doric columns with a grooved cornice, and the conical (?) summit were probably destroyed by an earthquake. From (Constantine) Le Khroub to _Bona_, see R. 48; to _Souk-Ahras_ (_Tebessa_, _Tunis_), see R. 49. Near (281½ M.) _Oued-Hamimin_ we sight the suburbs of Constantine to the left. To the left rises also _Jebel Chettaba_ (p. 297). 286 M. _Hippodrome_, station for the Constantine race-course. 287 M. _Sidi-Mabrouk_, a villa-suburb of Constantine. To the left, on the Batna road, are five arches of the *_Roman Aqueduct_, once extending from Ras el-Aïn Bou Merzoug (near Ouled-Rahmoun, p. 272) to the Coudiat-Aty (p. 297), a distance of 23 M. At the foot of the _Plateau de Mansoura_ (2303 ft.) the train enters the _Rhumel Valley_. On the left are the blue-washed houses of the native quarter of (288½ M.) _Constantine_ (p. 297). 44. From Constantine to Biskra viâ El-Guerrah and Batna. 149 M. RAILWAY. Through-train, including a 1st class saloon carriage (10 fr. extra) with ‘wagon-restaurant’ in winter, in 7 hrs.; ordinary train in 8¾ hrs. (fares 26 fr. 85, 19 fr. 20, 14 fr. 40 c.). Views to the right as far as Fontaine des Gazelles. Railway Restaurants at El-Guerrah, Batna, and El-Kantara. Among the intermediate stations _Batna_ is important only as the starting-point for Lambèse and Timgad (R. 45). _El-Kantara_ deserves a stay of some days for the sake of its own scenery and as a base for excursions to Tilatou, the Maâfa valley, etc. From Constantine to (23 M.) _El-Guerrah_, see above and pp. 273, 272. Passing (31 M.) _Aïn-M’Lila_ (2527 ft.), we reach the _Plateau des Sbakh_, the great steppe of E. Algeria, with its numerous salt-lakes, ‘dreary in the extreme, yet grand in its motionless repose, with tufts of grey-green alfa growing here and there on the salt soil, backed by the bold precipices and pinnacles of bare rocky mountains’. Appropriate accessories are, however, furnished now and then by the huts or tents of nomadic tribes with their herds. On the right rises the bare _Jebel Nif-Ensser_. Farther on we obtain, especially by morning light, a fine view of the salt-lake of _Tinsilt_, backed by the spurs of the Sahara Atlas (p. 170). 42½ M. _Les Lacs_ (2592 ft.), on the neck of land between Lake Tinsilt and (on the left) _Chott Mzouri_. We now traverse a long embankment crossing Lake Tinsilt, which is often enlivened by flamingoes and wild-duck. 53 M. _Aïn-Yagout_ (2891 ft.). 58 M. _Fontaine-Chaude_ (about 2790 ft.), with a few tents of nomads, near the small _Oued Mader_. Just before the station we observe on the left the =Medracen= (Arabic _Madghasen_), a pre-Roman royal tomb (of Masinissa?), the finest of the kind in Algeria after the Tombeau de la Chrétienne (p. 238). The huge monument (reached by a field-road from the station in 1¼ hr.) stands in an ancient Berber burial-ground on the flat saddle between two low, bare ranges of hills, about halfway between Fontaine-Chaude and the (6 M.) _Sebkha Djendeli_, the ancient _Lacus Regius_. The Medracen, one of the few existing tumulus-tombs in the Græco-Punic style, consists of a massive cylindrical basement, 64 yds. in diameter and only 14½ ft. high, on which rises a conical pyramid in twenty-four steps, crowned with a platform of 12½ yds. in diameter (the total height being 60 ft.). The sixty unfluted Doric half-columns recall the oldest Greek temples of Sicily, while the concave moulding above the architrave is Egyptian in character. The rude engravings on the basement, as well as the Libyan and late-Punic inscriptions, are ancient. Of the vestibule, 26 by 16 yds., but few vestiges are left. The straight passage leading to the two small tomb-chambers in the centre of the building collapsed in 1865. The two other shafts were bored by treasure-hunting natives. In the lofty valley of the Oued Mader we now reach the N. fringe of the Sahara Atlas, between the spurs of the _Bellezma Mts._ on the W. and _Jebel Bou Arif_ (5728 ft.), a range parallel on the N. with the Aurès Mts. (p. 278). 62½ M. _El-Mader-Pasteur_ (2851 ft.) is the station for _El-Mader_, the Roman _Casae_, a village with a little Byzantine fortress, situated 5 M. to the S.E., at the foot of Jebel Bou Arif. A road leads from this station also to (8 M.) _Pasteur_ and (19 M.) _Zana_. The village of _Pasteur_ (two inns), on the _Oued Seriana_, was the ancient _Lamiggiga_. In the market are Roman and early-Christian relics. =Zana= (no inn), the Roman _Diana Veteranorum_, a considerable colony of veterans, has several interesting ancient buildings. A triumphal arch of 165 A. D. is well preserved with the exception of the attica. An arch of Macrinus (217 A. D.) formed afterwards part of a small Byzantine fortress. The portal of a temple is still standing. The ruined Byzantine church in the forum was built chiefly of materials from Roman ruins. The train mounts a steep gradient to (66½ M.) _Fesdis_ (3032 ft.), in a defile scantily overgrown with bushes, between _Jebel Azeb_ (4485 ft.; on the left) and the Bellezma Mts. 73 M. =Batna.=—_Rail. Restaurant_, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr., good.—HOTELS (sometimes crowded in the season): _Hôt. des Etrangers_, Rue de Sétif. R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3–3½, D. 3½–4, omn. ¾–1 fr.; _Hôt. de Paris_, Rue de Constantine, next the town-hall, R. 2½, B. 1¼, déj. 2½, D. 3, omn. ½ fr., plain but good; _St. Georges_, Rue de Sétif, unpretending (attentive host). _Batna_ (3412 ft.; pop. 7500, incl. 2400 Mohammedans and 700 Jews), founded in 1844 as a military base for the advance upon Biskra, and now the chief military station in S. Constantine and the key to the important Sahara pass of El-Kantara, is a peaceful country-town with regularly-built streets, and offers no attraction save perhaps the ‘_Village-Nègre_’ (comp. p. 181), to the S.E. of the Quartier Militaire. It lies near the sources of the Oued Mader in a broad valley, often very cold in winter, between the wooded Bellezma Mts. on the W., Jebel Azeb (see above) on the N.E., and the spurs of the Aurès Mts. (p. 278) on the S. Tho finest point of view is =Jebel Touggour= or _Pic des Cèdres_ (6870 ft.), to the W. of tho town, a grand pyramid belonging to the Bellezma group. A rough road (mule 4–5 fr.), leading close past the station, ascends the valley to the W. and then the _Ravin des Gardes_, between Jebel Touggour and _Jebel Bou Merzoug_ (5840 ft.), to (7½ M.) the _Maison Forestière Oued Hamla_. Thence a bridle-path on the richly wooded S. slope of Jebel Touggour; lastly a climb, towards the N.E., through ancient but neglected cedar-forest (p. 210), to the (4 hrs.) summit. The immense panorama embraces tho Bellezma group and the distant Hodna Mts. (p. 270) to the W., the Plateau des Sbakh and the Tell Atlas near Constantine to the N.E., the long range of the Aurès Mts. to the S.E. and S., and part of the Sahara to the S.W. From Batna to _Lambèse_ and _Timgad_, see R. 45. Beyond Batna the train crosses the watershed (3543 ft.) between the Plateau des Sbakh and the Sahara. Far away to the S.W. are seen Jebel Metlili and the depression of the pass of El-Kantara (see below). 80 M. _Lambiridi_ (3527 ft.), near the scanty ruins of the Roman town of that name. We descend the broad valley of the _Oued el-Ksour_ or _Oued Aïn Touta_, one of the sources of the Oued Biskra (p. 279), to (94 M.) _Mac-Mahon_ (3002 ft.; Arabic _Aïn-Tuta_), a poplar-shaded oasis and alfa station (p. 171), originally founded by Alsatians. The next part of the line, through a steppe furrowed by the brook and the winter rains, is curious and interesting. 99 M. _Les Tamarins_ (about 2460 ft.) is not far from the famous gorge of the stream, here called _Oued Tilatou_ (comp. p. 277). The train next threads tunnels and cuttings through the saddle between the Tilatou valley and that of the _Oued Fedhala_ or _Guebli_, the second feeder of the Oued Biskra, whence we descend in a wide bend to the E. to (103 M.) _Maâfa_ (about 2130 ft.), at the influx of the brook _Maâfa_ into the Fedhala (excursion to the Maâfa valley, see pp. 277, 278). In the foreground we again sight the bold rocky slopes of El-Kantara. We recross the Oued Guebli, which, below the mouth of the Tilatou (see above), is named _Oued el-Kantara_, skirt the S.E. base of the Metlili (p. 277), and cross the stream to— 114 M. =El-Kantara.=—_Rail. Restaurant._—HOTEL (comp. p. 174). *_Hôt. Bertrand_, with view, R. 3–3½, B. 1, déj. 3–3½, pens. 10, omn. ½ fr.—POST OFFICE, opposite the hotel.—CARRIAGE 2½ fr. per hour.—MULE with English saddle, per day 5 fr., with Arabian saddle 3½ fr. (in the villages of the oasis 2½ fr., when not ordered through a guide). _El-Kántara_ (1772 ft.; ‘the bridge’, so named from its Roman bridge), the Roman _Calceus Herculis_, one of the most important caravan-stations in E. Algeria prior to the opening of the railway, owes its fame to the grand gorge of the Oued el-Kantara, called by the natives _Fumm es-Sahara_ (‘mouth of the desert’). The river here suddenly emerges from a wild Alpine region, flanked by the red limestone rocks of _Jebel Gaous_ and _Jebel Essor_, into a highly picturesque palm-oasis, below which it skirts the spurs of the _Aurès Mts._ (p. 278) and careers rapidly down to the Sahara. From the station the road on the left bank, overlooking the river-bed, with its profusion of wild oleanders, and the charming orchards on the floor of the valley, descends in 10 min. to the _Hôtel Bertrand_, situated at the finest and wildest point of the ravine, in a basin almost entirely shut in by grey rocky slopes. A few hundred paces farther, just before the mouth of the *Gorge (here barely 45 yds. wide), is the _Roman Bridge_, which was too thoroughly restored in 1862 under Napoleon III., carrying the old road, now partly destroyed by a landslip, from the right bank of the river to the left. From the bridge we enjoy a peculiar and striking view across the palm-oasis to the red weather-worn rocks of the Montagne d’Albâtre (p. 278). A similar view is offered by the _Iron Bridge_, 8 min. lower down, whence we may look back also into the ravine with Jebel Metlili rising behind it. The neighbouring *OASIS (pop. 3500), with its three mud-built villages, inhabited exclusively by natives of Berber descent, is, next to Bou Saâda (p. 270), the northmost palm-oasis in Barbary. From the iron bridge the road leads past a kubba and cactus-gardens to (12 min.) _Dahraouïa_, the only village at the foot of the red rocks of the right bank of the stream, named also _Village Rouge_ from the red mud-walls of the houses at its W. end, below the old burial-ground. The flat roof of the lower mosque, situated on the steep bank of the stream, affords a splendid view of the village and of the oasis as far as the Village Noir (see below). We now descend through luxuriant gardens to the right bank of the El-Kantara, above which the village extends picturesquely, cross the stream 10 min. lower down (by mule, or wading, or carried by a native), and then, from the generally dry bed of the _Rivière Blanche_ (p. 278), mount to the right to _Bourabès_ or _Village Noir_. From the N. end of this village we ascend the valley in 8 min. to _Gueraguère_ or _Khrekar_, known also as the _Village Blanc_, the largest village in the oasis. We may walk through it and regain the hotel in 20–25 minutes. If the El-Kantara is swollen we must return from Dahraouïa to the iron bridge and visit Gueraguère and Bourabès from the left bank. By carriage (7½ M., in 1½ hr.) we drive viâ Dahraouïa to the S. end of the oasis, and return on the left bank viâ Bourabès and Gueraguère. In the villages themselves we alight that we may better appreciate the novelty of the scene. The *=Jebel Metlili= (4900 ft.), a range of hills to the N.W. of El-Kantara, scantily overgrown with scrub and alfa-grass (p. 171), commands a splendid view of the steppe of El-Outaya (p. 278) and the Sahara, as well as of the fringes of the Sahara Atlas as far as Jebel Ahmar-Khaddou (p. 284). The clearness of the air and the wonderful effects of light and shade enhance the fascination of the scene. The mule-track (2½–3 hrs.) leads to the W. through the valley of the generally dry _Oued Chebba_ and then winds up through a gorge and over the hill-side to the summit. On the way are sometimes seen gazelles and aoudads or maned sheep (Ovis tragelaphus, Arabic arwi; occasionally even at El-Kantara). The excursion to the *=Gorges de Tilatou= takes a whole day, or about 5–6 hrs. only if we go by train to _Les Tamarins_ (p. 276), sending mules thither beforehand (provisions should be taken). Travellers from Biskra should go by the morning train to El-Kantara and proceed thence on mule-back to Les Tamarins, where they arrive in time for the afternoon train to Constantine.—The very picturesque entrance to the Tilatou valley is about 3 M. to the N.W. of El-Kantara. The grandest part of the gorge is at the Berber village (dasbera) of _Tilatou_, with its curious, still partly inhabited rock-dwellings. The village lies about halfway between the mouth of the river and the station of _Les Tamarins_. A visit to the _Maâfa Valley_ takes a whole day from El-Kantara, or from the _Maâfa_ station (p. 276), with the ride back to El-Kantara, 6–7 hrs. at least. The mule-track leads past the S. base of _Jebel Groun_ (3905 ft.) and the small mosque of _Sidi Yahia_ to the rock-villages of _Fetatcha_ and _Ameradsa_, inhabited by the Chaouïa (see below), at the entrance to the wildest parts of the ravine. Good riders may return to El-Kantara viâ _Beni-Ferah_ (see below). The =Aurès Mts.=, the _Mons Aurasius_ of antiquity (Arabic _Auras_), inhabited almost exclusively by the _Chaouïa_ (‘shepherds’), a Berber tribe, not subdued by the French until 1845, rise to the E. of El-Kantara, culminating in _Jebel Chelia_ (7634 ft.) and _Kef Mahmel_ (7615 ft.), the two highest peaks in Algeria. This grand mountain-region, with the wild and interesting valleys of the _Oued Abdi_ and the _Oued el-Abiod_, is as yet almost inaccessible to tourists, no quarters being obtainable except by the courtesy of the French officials or of the natives. A tour here, especially in winter, necessitates almost as tedious and costly preparations as travelling in Morocco (comp. p. 97). Better communication will, however, be provided by the new, still unfinished road from _Markouna_ (p. 289) to _Biskra_ (p. 279), by way of _Medina_ (4780 ft.) and _Aris_ (3842 ft.), opening up the head of the Oued el-Abiod valley, thence following the line of the ancient Roman road through the grand _Ravine of Tighanimine_, and descending from the zone of the cedar-forests to _M’chounech_ and _Droh_, the palm-oases on the _Ahmar-Khaddou_ (p. 284). A glance at the wild scenery of the Aurès Mts. is obtained by riding past the _Jebel Haouidja_ (see below) to (10 M.) _Aïn-Zatout_ or _Beni-Ferah_ (about 2950 ft.), a picturesque hill-village of the _Beni Ferah_ tribe. Strength permitting, we may ride thence to the S. to (17½ M.) *_Djemmorah_ (quarters at the sheikh’s) and (29 M.) _Branis_ (988 ft.), two palm-oases in the lower Oued Abdi valley, belonging to the _Ouled Ziane_, the only Arab tribe in the Aurès, and to (42½ M.) _Biskra_ (p. 279). After leaving El-Kantara the RAILWAY passes through three short tunnels into the _Gorge of El-Kantara_ (p. 276). Near the Roman bridge we obtain a striking glimpse of the _Palm Oasis_, which, farther on, beyond the bed of the _Rivière Blanche_, we survey in its full extent. Looking back, on the right, we have a fine view of the red rocks in the gorge. Running to the S.W., generally close to the Oued el-Kantara, the train skirts the slopes of the _Montagne d’Albâtre_ or _Kef ed-Darsa_, a spur of _Jebel Haouidja_ or _Jebel Kteuf_, which are geologically interesting and have a splendid red glow in the sunshine. 125 M. _Fontaine des Gazelles_ (1280 ft.) lies in a stony waste between _Jebel Selloum_ (2569 ft.), the S.W. buttress of Jebel Haouidja, and the singular _Jebel Kroubset_. The small sulphur-baths of _Hammam Sidi el-Hadj_, ½ hr. to the S.E. of the station, used by the natives only, occupy the site of the Roman _Aquae Herculis_; an elliptical Roman piscina, 107 yds. in circumference, still serves as a bath. The spring (97° Fahr.) rises at the N. base of _Jebel el-Melah_ or _Gharribou_ (2057 ft.), noted for its rock-salt. Nearing (131 M.) _El-Outaya_ (905 ft.), we survey on the right the extensive steppe of _El-Outaya_ (‘the plain’), a kind of forecourt of the Sahara, bounded on the S. by the Chaîne de Sfa (p. 282) and Jebel Matraf. The soil is white with saltpetre in places. To the left, beyond the station is a small palm-grove. [Illustration: BISKRA] A little before (138 M.) _Ferme Dufourg_, the station for a modelfarm 2½ M. to the W., on the right bank of the stream, we sight on the left the hills of _Ahmar-Khaddou_ (p. 284), sometimes snow-clad in winter, the landmark of Biskra. We cross the _Plaine de Dar-Raous_ or _Dar el-Aroussa_, often enlivened by gazelles; it lies between the Aurès streams _Oued Bou Gatou_ and _Oued Abdi_ (p. 278), which here fall into the El-Kantara, now called _Oued Biskra_. Beyond the ‘_Col des Chiens_‘, a barren gorge at the foot of _Jebel el-Mlaga_ (p. 282), we observe on the left the _Barrage_ of the Oued Biskra, constructed in 1897 and guarded by a block-house. On the right lies the Catholic cemetery and in the distance are the palm-oases of— 149 M. =Biskra.= The STATION (Pl. A, 1) is at the N.W. end of the town, 8–12 min. from most of the hotels. Sleeping-car office at _Bouillard & Simon’s_, Rue Berthe. =Hotels= (comp. p. 174; often crowded in Feb. and March). *ROYAL HOTEL (Pl. a; C, 3), Avenue Delacroix, at the S. end of the town, with garden-court, terrace, belvedere (p. 281), and restaurant, R. 4–20, B. 1½–2, déj. 3½–4, D. 5–7, pens. 13–25, omn. 1 fr., closed May-Oct.; *PALACE HOTEL (Pl. b; B, C, 4), next the Casino (see below), well situated, with pretty garden, R. 6–20, pens. 16–25 fr., closed 16th April to 30th Nov.; GRAND-HÔTEL EXCELSIOR (Pl. g; B, C, 4), with garden, R. 3–10, B. 1½, déj. 3–4, D. 4–5, pens. 12½–25 fr., closed 16th May–31st Oct., well spoken of.—*HÔT. VICTORIA (Pl. c; A, 2), Boul. Gambetta, with small garden, R. 3–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 11–15, omn. ¾ fr., closed 16th May to 14th Oct.; *HÔT. DU SAHARA (Pl. e; B, 2), Rue Berthe, with restaurant and garden-court, R. 3–7, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 9–10, omn. ¾ fr.; HÔT. DE L’OASIS (Pl. d; C, 2), Rue du Card. Lavigerie, with restaurant, R. 3–5, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, pens. 9–12, omn. 1 fr., patronized by the French, open the whole year, good; HÔT. DES ZIBANS (Pl. f; C, 2), Rue du Card. Lavigerie, R. 2½–5, B. 1, D. 2½, pens. 8½–10 fr., plain. =Cafés.= At the _Casino_ (see below); _Glacier_, Rue du Card. Lavigerie. =Carriages= (stand in Square Dufourg; Pl. C, 3). From station to town with luggage 1½, per hour 2½, to Chetma or the Dunes of Oumache 10, to Sidi-Okba or Droh 20, to Oumache or Bordj Saâda 25 fr.—The tariff is high, but a bargain may often be made for much less, if without the intervention of hotel-porters or guides. =Horse= or =Mule=, 3–6 fr., according to distance.—CAMEL, with attatouch (p. 174) for ladies, 4 fr. per day; attendant ½–1 fr. =Tramway= from the Casino (see below) every ½–1 hr. on the Route de Touggourt (Pl. C, 4, 5) to Old Biskra (in 12 min.; 10 c.; terminus near the Kasba Hill); also four times daily viâ Beni-Mora to Hammam es-Salahin (in 50 min.; 50 c.)—DILIGENCE to Sidi-Okba (at 8.30 a.m.; returning at 3 p.m.); also to Touggourt (comp. p. 284). =Physicians.= _Dr. Couillaud_, Rue Malakoff 15 (2–4 o’cl.); _Dr. Dicquemare_, at the Gr.-Hôt. Excelsior.—CHEMIST. _G. Isaac_, Rue Berthe.—MOORISH BATH (Pl. C, 4), Route de Touggourt.—PHOTOGRAPHS at _Fréchon’s, Bougault’s_, and _Maure’s_, all in Rue Berthe. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. B, 2), Rue Saad 3. =English Church Service= (Jan.-April) at the former Cercle Civil (Pl. 1; B, C, 2), Rue Graillet. =Amusements.= _Casino Dar-Diaf_ (Pl. B, C, 4; p. 281), Route de Touggourt, with theatre and concert-room; varieties, dances of the Ouled Naïl, etc.—_Ouled Naïl_ dancing-girls (originally of the nomadic tribe mentioned at p. 215), and other native artists perform at the small native cafés in the Rue Arcelin and Rue Lapeyrouse (Pl. B, C, 3); visitors pay 1 fr. (incl. cup of Arabian tea or coffee). =Festivals.= The _Courses de Biskra_, held for three days between 1st and 20th Feb., comprise camel-races (courses sahariennes de mehara), horse-races in the hippodrome of Beni-Mora (p. 283), ‘Fantasia Arabe’ (equestrian performances, p. 99), and processions of the natives.—The ‘grande prière’ on the Kasba Hill at the end of the fasting-month of Ramadan attracts many spectators.—To join the _Falcon Hunts_ of an agha (see below) special permission is required. =Guides= (p. xxvi; 4–5 fr. a day; 2 fr. for an evening only), like hawkers and beggars, are a local pest, but their services are entirely superfluous, even for drives or rides in the environs, where the drivers or attendants give information. =Climate.= The season is Nov.–April. Lying at the S. base of the Sahara Atlas and on the margin of the desert, Biskra has all the characteristics of the Sahara climate (pp. 170, 171). The great fluctuations of temperature (mean winter maximum 65° Fahr., mean minimum 45°) are comparatively little felt, even by invalids, owing to the remarkable dryness of the air. The rainfall is very slight and sunless days are quite the exception. The dust, however, is sometimes troublesome, even in winter, and sand-storms, especially during the sirocco (S.E. wind), may occur at any season. When a cold N. or N.W. wind blows from the Sahara Atlas, the palm-oasis alone affords some shelter. As yet no special arrangements for invalids exist at Biskra. =Sights=, when time is limited. On arrival, view from the belvedere of the _Royal Hotel_ (p. 281). 1st Day. Visit to _Market_ (p. 281) early, then _Villa de Bénévent_ and *_Old Biskra_ (p. 281); in the afternoon, ride or drive to the _Col de Sfa_ (p. 282). 2nd Day. Excursion to _Sidi-Okba_ (p. 283). The little town of _Biskra_ (400 ft.; pop. 7400, of whom 6300 are Mohammedans, incl. Old Biskra) lies at the S. base of the low _Chaîne de Sfa_ (p. 282), on the right bank of the _Oued Biskra_, generally a very poor stream below the Barrage (p. 279). Owing to its convenient situation at the end of the E. Algerian Sahara railway, and to its fine climate, it has grown into great favour of late as a winter resort and the ‘Nice’ of Algeria. The present town, with streets regularly built as in all the modern Algerian towns, has sprung up only since the French occupation of 1844. The mediæval Biskra, named after the small Roman settlement of _Bescĕra_, lay in the midst of the palm-oasis (p. 281), on the top and on the slopes of a low hill, where, after the destruction of the town by Sala Reïs (1553), a Turkish fort (kasba) was built. The natives then settled anew in the still existing seven villages of the oasis. Biskra is the capital and administrative centre of the _Zab_ (‘oasis’, pl. _ziban_), the extensive girdle of oases on the S. fringes of the _Monts du Zab_ (p. 170) and the _Aurès Mts._ In accordance with their sites these oases are named _Zab Dahraoui_ (N. Zab), on the margin of the Monts du Zab, _Zab Guebli_ (S. Zab), on the _Oued Djedi_ (p. 284), and _Zab Chergui_ (E. Zab), between the Aurès Mts. and the _Chott Melrir_ (p. 284). The natives of the Zab, who are under an ‘agha’ or chief, are mostly Berbers with a large infusion of Arabian and in some cases Turkish blood. Many of them, under the name of _Biskris_, are met with in the coast-towns as small traders. The only business street is the RUE BERTHE (Pl. B, C, 1–3), in the S. part of which there are a few small European shops. It intersects the whole town and connects the railway-station with the strangers’ quarter on the S. side. Between the Rue Berthe and _Fort St. Germain_ (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), the nucleus of the town, built in 1849–51, runs the _Grande Allée_ past the _Jardin Public_, which, on its N.E. side, is adjoined by the _Jardins de la Garnison_. The Rue Berthe leads to the AVENUE DELACROIX (Pl. C, 3), the favourite haunt of guides and hawkers, where, at its junction with the Square Dufourg, rises a bronze statue of _Card. Lavigerie_ (Pl. 2, C, 3; p. 346), the benefactor of Biskra. The belvedere of the _Royal Hotel_ (p. 279), 92 ft. high, resembling a minaret (visitors kindly admitted), commands an excellent *Panorama of the town and its environs, finest in the early morning, or towards sunset, when the Ahmar-Khaddou (‘rosy cheek’; p. 284) is bathed in a ruddy glow. The _Casino Dar-Diaf_ (Pl. B, C, 4; ‘house of the guests’), built by A. Ballu (p. 289) in the neo-Moorish style in 1892–3, is the fashionable evening resort. The _Mairie_ (Pl. B, 2), the small _Mosque_ (Pl. B, 3), and other public buildings are situated between the Rue Berthe and the quiet Boul. Carnot (Pl. A, B, 2, 3), which joins the Avenue Delacroix at the Casino. The MARCHÉ (Pl. B, 3) presents a busy and picturesque scene, especially in the early morning, which will interest new-comers. The motley throng of traders, many of them Mozabites (p. 216), offer the art-industrial products of the Berber tribes of the Aurès and the Sahara, besides Moroccan wares and ‘Oriental’ articles made in Europe, at unduly high prices. The fruit and vegetable market affords evidence of the fertility of the oases. The _Marché aux Bestiaux_ is held in the Boul. Carnot on Mondays. Camel caravans from the Sahara may be seen at the _Fondouks_ (Pl. A, 3), the inns of the natives on the Route des Zibans. The quite modern _Village-Nègre_ (Pl. C, 4; comp. p. 181) is very dirty and uninteresting. A few hundred yards to the S. of the town, between the Route de Touggourt and the Route de Sidi-Okba, is the VILLA DE BÉNÉVENT or _Jardin Landon_ (Pl. C, 5; adm. 2 fr.), a creation of Count Landon (p. 305), the beautiful *Grounds of which are stocked with a marvellous profusion of tropical and subtropical plants, and afford a delightful shady retreat in hot weather. The great attraction in the nearer environs is *=Old Biskra= (_Vieux-Biskra_; see inset Map, at p. 279), with its clay-built oasis-villages (_ksar_, pl. _ksûr_) inhabited by Biskris (p. 280), and its oasis 3 M. long by 110–550 yds. wide, with some 150,000 date-palms and 6000 fruit-trees (apricots, figs, oranges), besides corn-fields and small kitchen-gardens. The palms, being well watered from the Barrage (p. 279), are well grown and beautifully green; the dates, however, have less flavour than those of the Oued Rhir (p. 285), the Djerid (p. 386), and particularly those of the Souf (p. 285). The traveller may induce a native (20–30 c.) to show him one of the palm-gardens, or he may be satisfied with a glimpse at them over the low mud-walls or through gaps. From the Villa de Bénévent (p. 281) walkers follow the right bank of the Oued Biskra, in the bed of which stands the kubba of _Sidi Zerzour_, to the (20 min.) village of _M’Cid_, the eastmost in the oasis, with its tall cypress, 130 ft. high, and its pertinacious beggars. The lofty minaret of the small mosque of _Sidi Moussa_ or _Sidi Malek_ (muezzin, 30–50 c.) affords a fine survey of the oasis, backed on the N.E. by the distant and usually snow-clad Jebel Chelia (p. 278), and extending to the S.E. to Sidi-Okba (p. 283). About ¼ hr. to the S.W. of M’Cid is the picturesque village of _Bab el-Dharb_, infested by begging children, where, at the great lotus-tree near the two conduits, we enjoy a charming view of the palm-gardens. Close by is the mosque of _Sidi Abd el-Moumen_, whose minaret is another famous point of view (ascent toilsome). Between Bab el-Dharb and the tramway-terminus (p. 279; Café Petit Robinson) rises the _Kasba Hill_, crowned with the old mud-built Turkish fort, now partly washed away by rain, where the first French garrison was massacred by the natives in 1844. View limited. The village of _Bab-Fath_, to the S.W. of the Kasba Hill, has a picturesque shrine, the marabout of _Sidi Lahsen_. We return to Biskra by tramway on the Route de Touggourt, passing the poor _Mohammedan Cemetery_ on the left and the _Hôpital Lavigerie_ on the right; or we may choose the road (½ hr.) through the village of _Ras el-Guéria_, noted for the gaily coloured costumes of its inhabitants. For CARRIAGES (tariff, see p. 279) the route prescribed for avoiding the narrow roads is viâ M’Cid to Bab el-Dharb, and back by the Route de Touggourt or viâ Ras el-Guéria. With this excursion may be combined a drive to the small oasis of _Cora_, with most characteristic Sahara surroundings, and to (6¼ M. from Biskra) the _Dunes d’Oumache_, or even to the (10 M.) _Oase Oumache_, where the ksar, defended by ancient moats, contains many remains of Roman buildings. Fine view at the marabout. The excursion to Oumache takes at least half a day. Provisions should be taken. The (5 M.) *=Col de Sfa=, which has long been famed for its view, is a depression in the _Chaîne de Sfa_, between _Jebel Bou Rezel_ (1322 ft.) and _Jebel el-Mlaga_ (1302 ft.), on the shadeless road to El-Kantara and Batna. We drive (by the hour, see p. 279), or (preferable) ride to the pass; in the latter case we may extend our trip from the pass to the (¼ hr.) ruinous Poste Optique, whence we survey the steppe of El-Outaya (p. 278) to the N., and to the S. the endless undulating expanse of the yellow Sahara, spotted like a panther’s hide, as Strabo has described it, with its green oases (Chetma, Biskra, Sidi-Okba, etc.). Finest light towards sunset. The (5 M.) =Hammam es-Salahin= (443 ft.; ‘bath of the saints’) or _Fontaine-Chaude_, the Roman _Ad Piscinam_, is most conveniently reached by tramway (p. 279). The car runs through the whole of the Boul. Carnot (p. 281), turns to the W. past a hill crowned with a disused _Optic Telegraph_ (Pl. A, 3), and then passes the small oasis of _Beni-Mora_ and crosses the streamlet _Oued Zemour_. The _Bath House_ (pens. with baths 10 fr.) attracts many visitors from Biskra, especially in summer. It lies in a most dreary region between _Jebel Bou Rezel_ (p. 282) and the sandy _Jebel Maouya Gorah_. The quadrangle, where the surprisingly copious salt and sulphur spring (115° Fahr.) bursts forth, is enclosed by cells for Europeans (1½ fr.) and men’s and women’s baths for the natives. The roof-terrace affords a good view of the environs. About 1 M. to the N. is a small mountain-lake of volcanic origin. _Jebel Maouya Gorah_, the E. spur of Jebel Matraf, is a good standpoint for surveying the girdle of oases formed by the Zab Dahraoui and Zab Guebli (p. 280), stretching to the distant Oued Djedi (p. 284). The S. base of this range, where the building and paving stones of Biskra are now quarried, is skirted by the _Route des Zibans_, much used by caravans. The EXCURSION TO SIDI-OKBA (13 M.; diligence, see p. 279; carr. tariff, see p. 279, but 12–15 fr. is usually accepted) is the favourite among the longer trips from Biskra. The Route de Sidi-Okba (Pl. C, 4, 5) fords the Biskra (sometimes dangerous after winter rains) and skirts the small oases of _Lalia_ and _Filliache_. Between these is the _Nécropole_, once a Berber burial-ground. For the long drive through the dreary steppe at the S. foot of the Aurès Mts., enlivened only by the begging children of the nomads, we are repaid by the verdant _Palm Oasis of Sidi-Okba_, the most fertile of the Zab Chergui group (p. 280), watered by a network of conduits from the Oued el-Abiod (p. 278). The small town of =Sidi-Okba= (144 ft.; restaurant, at the entrance to the town; pop. 4900), the religious centre of the Zab, owes its origin and its fame as a resort of pilgrims to the tomb of Sidi Okba (p. 322), who ended his victorious career in the adjacent oasis of Thouda. The now poor town, with its mud-built fortifications and houses, and its beggars, lepers, and importunate guides, vividly recalls a mediæval Sahara town. On alighting we walk straight on, then bear to the left, and soon reach a small square with the _Maison du Kaïd_ and other picturesque houses. Turning here to the left we come to a second place, where on the left, preceded by a colonnade, rises the plain _Mosque of Sidi-Okba_, the oldest in Algeria, containing the tomb of the saint, which is shown on Fridays only. The main entrance to the court of the mosque consists of a carved *Door in the so-called Berber style (10th cent.). The minaret should be ascended for the sake of the excellent survey it affords of the town and the oasis (custodian 50 c.). Adjoining the mosque is the _Zaouïa_, with a Mohammedan law-school. Passing through the gateway we now follow the first street on the right to the _Market_, with its quaint and busy crowd. The steppe adjoining _Aïn-Naga_, 14½ M. to the E. of Sidi-Okba, on the caravan route to _Négrine_, which in late-Roman times was an important military road, is a favourite resort in winter of gazelle-stalkers from Biskra. Mirages (Fata Morgana) are often witnessed here. The *EXCURSION TO M’CHOUNECH, which is much grander than the last-named, is very fatiguing, but will be greatly facilitated by the opening of the new road through the Aurès Mts. (p. 278). We ride to the E., across the Biskra ford, to (5 M.) _Chetma_, a small palm-oasis on the outskirts of the Aurès, where the road at present ends. After a short rest in the village (ksar), with its mud-built houses, or beside the adjoining springs, we proceed viâ (10½ M.) _Droh_ to (14 M.) _El-Habel_ (778 ft.), where we reach the deep-set valley of the _Oued el-Abiod_ (p. 278). We then ascend on the right bank of the stream to (19 M.) =M’chounech= (1083 ft.; quarters at the sheikh’s), a beautiful palm-oasis with 1300 inhab., at the foot of the _Ahmar-Khaddou_ (6315 ft.). The hill on which the ksar stands affords a very curious and striking view of the neighbouring *Ravines (accessible in dry weather only) and the upper course of the stream with its oases, as far as Baniane; but we may obtain a still grander view by riding to the (24 M.) _Poste Optique_ (3691 ft.), on the S. margin of the Ahmar-Khaddou, whence the most impressive desert panorama stretches as far as the Chott Melrir (see below). The summit of the mountain may be gained in 4–5 hrs. more, but few travellers will care to face the toilsome ascent. From Biskra to Branis, Djemmorah, Beni-Ferah, and _El-Kantara_, see p. 278; to the _Gorges de Tilatou_, see p. 277. Hardy and well-equipped (pp. 173, 174) travellers will be repaid by the interesting SAHARA ROUTE TO TOUGGOURT (127 M.; ‘courrier postal’, open omnibus with awning, on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 3 a.m., in 28 hrs., excl. 10 hrs.’ halt for the night at M’raïer; fare 40 fr.; carr. from the hirers Viallard or Tourenq, 300–400 fr.; a driver that speaks French should be asked for). A railway from Biskra to Touggourt is now under construction.—The Route de Touggourt leads to the S.E. from Old Biskra (p. 281) through the steppe to (19 M.) _Bordj Saâda_ (85 ft.), in the plain of the _Oued Djedi_ (comp. p. 215), and thence to the S. to (32½ M.) _Bordj Chegga_, to the W. of the _Chott Melrir_ (95 ft. below the sea-level), the largest salt-lake in Algeria. 45½ M. _Bir Sethil_, on the _Oued Itel_, across the bed of which, generally dry, the road is carried by an embankment over 100 yds. long, built of blocks of gypsum. 50 M. _Kef ed-Door_ (374 ft.), a plateau affording fine views, with a Poste Optique communicating with Ahmar-Khaddou (see above), and said to be the southmost point reached by Sidi Okba (p. 322) in the course of his campaigns. 63½ M. _Ourir_, a small oasis near the _Chott Merouan_, the S. arm of Chott Melrir, contains the kubba of _Sidi Makfi_, a favourite resort of pilgrims. 69 M. =M’raïer= or _Merayer_ (13 ft. below sea-level; Caravansérail, R. 2–3, B. ½, D. 3½ fr.; pop. 1700), a thriving but fever-haunted village, with a luxuriant palm-oasis watered by artesian wells. We next come to the region of the =Oued Rhir=, also malarious, with the largest girdle of oases in Algeria. These oases, artificially irrigated under the French régime by the sinking of numerous very costly artesian wells, have gained immensely in fertility, and their palms (about 950,000) supply the European markets with dates of the clear or pale variety (deglet en-nûr). Passing the posting-stations of _Sidi-Khelil_ and _El-Berd_ we come to _Ourlana_ (69 ft.; pop. 4000), on the so-called _Sea of Ourlana_, a chain of lakes where the water of the Oued Rhir comes to the surface. 109½ M. _Djemaâ_ (Caravansérail, R. 3, B. ¾, D. 3 fr., quite good), lies near the oasis of _Tiguedidin_, with its pretty lake in a palm-grove. Then _Tamerna_, with 1600 inhab., and _Sidi-Rached_. The swarthy complexion of the natives, mostly _Rouaras_, akin to the Harrâtin (p. 94), now indicates that we are nearing the Sudan. 127 M. =Touggourt= or _Tougourt_ (259 ft.; Hôt. de l’Oasis, Grande Place, near the Bureau Arabe, R. 3, D. 3, pens. 12½ fr.; mule and attendant 5 fr. per day; pop. 7100), a rapidly increasing little town, with a great Friday market, is important as the junction of the caravan-routes to the Mzab (p. 216), Ouargla (or Wargla), and the Souf (see below). New Touggourt (_T. el-Djedida_) lies at the foot of a hill crowned with the ruins of Old Touggourt (_T. el-Khedima_). The distinguishing features of the town are two tall square towers, a minaret, and the clock-tower of the Kasba. The new gypsum-built houses, some of them in several stories, produce a striking effect. The inhabitants—Rouaras, many Mozabites (p. 216), and Jews and negroes who have embraced Islam—live in separate quarters (_zgag_) and in large suburbs. Their home-industries, especially weaving and carpet-making, are thriving. It is very interesting to ride through the *_Oasis_, or to make an excursion to the S. to the little oasis town of (8 M.) _Temacin_ and the (9½ M.) _Zaouïa of Tamelhat_, one of the most influential monasteries in the Sahara, with a superb *Mosque. In order to avoid the long route back to Biskra, and at the same time to see more of the Sahara, we may ride from Touggourt viâ _El-Oued_, to the N.E., in 4–5 days direct to _Nefta_ (p. 387; trotting-camel to El-Oued 10, and for the ‘Saharien’ a fee of 3 fr. per day; comp. also p. 174). The caravan-route, marked only by pyramidal signals, crosses the great dunes of the =Souf=, where ‘desert-roses’ (p. 270) abound, one of the N. offshoots of the _Erg Oriental_, as the great E. desert of the Sahara is called. The only houses of call are (12½ M.) _Bordj Mguitla_, (24 M.) _Bordj Mouiat Ferdjana_, and (44½ M.) _Bordj Mouiat el-Kaïd_. The first village in the Souf is (53 M.) _Ourmes_. 61½ M. =El-Oued= (263 ft.; good quarters at the house of the merchant Sagnier, R. 3, déj. or D. 4¼ fr.; pop. 7400), the interesting capital of the Souf, with windowless houses covered with barrel-vaulting and small domes, is best viewed from the minaret or from the dune on the N. side. El-Oued and particularly the neighbouring oasis of _Guémar_ are famed for their weaving; their wares are sent by the caravan-route to the S.E. viâ Bir er-Ressof (Beresof) to Ghadâmes in Tripolitania. The *_Oases_ of the Souf, containing about 180,000 palm-trees, have quite a different system of cultivation from all others in Barbary. The remarkably thick and long-leaved palms stand in funnel-shaped hollows (entonnoirs, Arabic ritan), and are protected against sand-drift by palisades of palm-twigs. The irrigation is provided by surface-water collected in wells, from which the water is raised by means of long draw-beams. The dates, owing to the peculiar mode of culture and the great heat of the sun, are noted for their sweetness and fine flavour. They are usually exported to Europe by way of S. Tunis. Beyond (74½ M.) _Debila_, where the high dunes end, we ride to the Tunisian frontier across the pastures of the nomadic tribes, watered by artesian wells. A delightful scene is presented by the watering of the cattle, driven in from every direction, and indefatigably supplied by the swarthy herdsmen. Beyond _Choucht el-Ihoudi_ and _Bir el-Asli_, the first stages in Tunisia, we traverse the dreary steppe to the N.W. end of the _Chott Djerid_ (p. 386), through which we ride for a short way on the _Trik Douaria_. 137 M. _Nefta_ (p. 387), where we must announce our arrival at the custom-house.—From Nefta viâ _Tozeur_ to _Metlaoui_ (and _Gafsa_), see pp. 387, 386. 45. From Batna viâ Lambèse to Timgad. ROAD, to Lambèse 7 M. (diligence four times daily, in 1 hr.), to Timgad 23½ M.—The diligence from Batna to (67 M.) Khenchela (p. 273), starting at 4 a.m., reaches at 8 a.m., beyond the 35th kilomètre-stone (22 M.), the point where the Timgad road diverges. One may therefore alight there and walk in less than ½ hr. to Timgad. Returning from Khenchela the diligence passes this point about noon. During the season motor-omnibuses of the Hôt. des Etrangers run from Batna to Lambèse and Timgad (75 fr. for the whole vehicle; single seat 25 fr.). A motor-omnibus of the Hôt. Meille at Timgad also conveys travellers from the station at Batna to Timgad and back (20 fr. each person; best to order beforehand). Carriages (for one day 20–30, for two days 30–40 fr.) may be had at the hotels or through the Rail. Restaurant. The fares are rather lower when arranged with the drivers direct. Bicycles in the Square at Batna, 5 fr. per day. If pressed for time we may take the evening train from Constantine to Batna, visit Lambèse and Timgad next day, and go on to Biskra in the afternoon by train. Those who reach Batna from Biskra or El-Kantara about noon may take lunch at the station, go on to Lambèse, staying there for 1½–2 hrs., and thence to Timgad, whence they may return next morning to Batna in time for the afternoon train to Constantine. _Batna_, see p. 275. The road leaves the town by the _Quartier Militaire_ and ascends slightly, to the S.E., through the dreary upland plain, where it is sometimes bitterly cold in winter, and along the N. margin of the _Aurès Mts._ (p. 278). As we near the hill-region of Lambèse we sight the ‘Prætorium’ in the distance. 7 M. =Lambèse= or _Lambessa_ (3875 ft.; quarters at the poor cafés only), a village with a large _Pénitencier_, or Maison Centrale de Correction, was founded in 1848 as a prison for political offenders and partly built out of the ruins of the Roman _Lambaesis_. Lambæsis was the headquarters of the famous Third Legion, the nucleus of the Roman forces in Numidia, transferred hither about 100 A. D. from Tebessa (p. 315) for the defence of the chief Aurès passes, those to the Oued Abdi and the Oued el-Abiod (p. 278). Their oldest camp, recently discovered, lay 1¼ M. to the W. of Lambèse; the newer camp, mentioned as early as 146 A. D., is now partly built over by the penitentiary and its garden. On a hill rising steeply from the plain, 1¼ M. to the S. of the later camp, lay a civilian settlement (_canăbae_), occupied at first by traders, artisans, and the soldiers’ families, but erected into a municipium under Marcus Aurelius (161–180). This became the seat of the governor of Numidia and for a short time prospered. But the punishment of the Third Legion by Gordian III. (238), who removed it to the Rhine for twenty-five years, the earthquake of 268, the extension of the military frontier under Diocletian (284–305) to the S. border of the Sahara Atlas, and the transference, under Constantine the Great, of the governor’s seat to Cirta (p. 298) were disasters from which Lambæsis never recovered, so that by the 5th cent. it was completely abandoned. The Roman *CAMP, one of the best-preserved in existence, ‘the classic ruin of military occupation’ as it has been called, forms a rectangle of 547 by 460 yds., with the usual rounded corners, and four gates, between which ran the two main streets, the _Cardo_ and the _Decumanus_. We alight at the ancient _Porta Sinistra_, the W. gate. Between this and the ‘Prætorium’ (see below) recent excavations have unearthed remains of the Decumanus and its three N. side-streets, all once flanked with colonnades, and the foundations of the barracks built of concrete (p. 290). The _Porta Praetoria_, the N. gate, at the end of the well-paved Cardo, with its two passages and the substructures of its two towers, is particularly well preserved. Near it, adjoining the relics of the camp-wall, are the ruins of several other towers. At the intersection of the Decumanus and the Cardo, 156 yds. from the N. gate, rises the so-called **_Praetorium_, probably rebuilt in 268, the monumental entrance-gateway of the residence of the legate (prætorium or principia), the only intact Roman building of the kind and the grandest Roman ruin in Algeria. This great rectangular pile of solid masonry in two stories, 33½ by 25 yds. in area and 49 ft. in height, is adorned outside with Corinthian columns on high pedestals and with Corinthian pilasters. The four great round-arched passages, of which the side and end ones are flanked, respectively, by three and two smaller archways, open into a central space, which, to judge from the four large bases of pillars, was once probably furnished with a roof and lighted by the four round-arched windows in the upper story. Of the so-called _Forum_, the chief court of the Prætorium, there still exist remains of the colonnade and a number of side-chambers, once armouries. (In the so-called arsenal at the N.W. angle many cannon-balls and other missiles have been found.) To the S. of the forum is the _Posticum_, with its offices and _Scholae_, the club-rooms of the officers and sergeants (now ticketed), and the _Chapel_ for the flags and insignia of the Legion, recognizable by its large niche. The cellars served as the _Treasury_. The _Thermes du Camp_, the ancient baths, to the S.E. of the Prætorium, show remains of the heating apparatus (comp. p. 294). From the E. gate, once the _Porta Dextra_, ran the road to Verecunda (p. 289) and Timgad and the Via Septimiana to the town-hill, 1¼ M. distant. In the open ground outside of it rises the ruinous single _Arch of Commodus_. Near this is the _Amphitheatre_, whose stones were used in building the penitentiary (p. 286). We now drive to the S. from the S.E. angle of the camp, where carriages usually wait, to the VILLAGE. At the _Mairie_, mainly built with the stones of the Septizonium, a nymphæum or fountain, we find the museum attendant (fee ½ fr.), who if desired will show also the town-hill (fee). The small _Musée Municipal_, near the church, comprises, under a shed, some mediocre statues from the temple of Æsculapius and splendid *Mosaics found in 1905 (one with an inscription by a Greek artist), missiles, etc. The garden contains architectural fragments, inscriptions, etc. A road leads from the S. end of the village to the TOWN HILL, where excavators have not as yet discovered even the forum. Near the (¼ hr.) _Aïn-Drinn_, which now supplies the village with drinking-water, are the almost unrecognizable remains of the _Temple of Neptune_. From this point we walk to the N.E. past the ruins of the _Aqueduct_ and the foundations of four _Dwelling Houses_ to (10 min.) the chief temples. The *_Temple of Æsculapius_, at the W. end of the temple area, a curiously planned edifice dating from the time of Marcus Aurelius, consists of a cella, well-preserved in its foundations, with a large semicircular niche for the statues of Æsculapius and Salus (or Hygiea), and of a semicircular terrace (concave inwards), where a square basement in front bore a Doric portico, which collapsed in 1852. In front of the flight of six steps lie remains of the architrave, bearing the dedicatory inscription of the temple. Colonnades connected the temple with two semicircular projections, flanking the terrace, on which stood the ædiculæ or chapels of Jupiter Valens and Silvanus. Behind the cella are vestiges of the _Thermae_ connected with the temple. A straight ancient road leads to the S.E. from the temple of Æsculapius to the capitol, the distinctive feature of every Roman colony. On the left lie the substructures of _Chapels_ dedicated to eight different gods (about 200 A. D.), all rectangular and each with its niche, usually rounded. The *_Capitol_, the largest temple of Lambæsis, dedicated to the cult of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, adjoins the W. wall of the ancient temple-court, a quadrangle of 66 by 60 yds., of whose colonnades eight columns only survive. A flight of twenty steps, most of which also have disappeared, ascended to the temple portico, with eight Corinthian columns in front and four at the back. The cella, still fairly preserved, 22½ by 12¼ yds., consists, exceptionally, of only two chambers, separated by a partition, with square niches for the sacred images. On the temple steps lie fragments of the dedicatory inscription of the ‘Respublica Lambæsis’. The capitol is adjoined on the E. by the court of a third _Temple_, 82 by 38 yds. We now follow the road on the hill to the E., leaving on the left the so-called _Bains des Chasseurs_, and in 3 min. reach the ruins of a _Triumphal Arch_ with three gateways, on the old road to Verecunda (p. 289), and 3 min. farther a smaller _Archway_, to which point carriages should be ordered. We then drive back to the plain, to the N.W., by the Bertouli road, skirting the town-hill. [Illustration: TIMGAD] About halfway between this road and the highroad we pass the ruins of a building once erroneously called the _Palais du Légat_, and those of _Latrinae_. On the ancient Via Septimiana (p. 287), about a hundred yards farther, rises the *_Arch of Septimius Severus_, with its three passages, bereft of its columns and attica. The HIGH ROAD ascends past the remains (on the left) of a _Roman Burial Ground_, with the substructures of an _Early Christian Chapel_, under the ciborium altar of which are two martyrs’ tombs. After a long bend to the N. it reaches (9 M. from Batna) =Markouna= (about 4260 ft.), a country-house surrounded by fruit-trees, cypresses, and pines, not far from the site of the little Roman town of _Verecunda_. Beyond Markouna, just before the new road to Medina (and Biskra; see p. 278) diverges, rises the _Arch of Marcus Aurelius_ (172 A. D.). A little way to the S.W., on the old Roman road coming from the town-hill of Lambæsis, stands another _Archway_, dedicated to the same emperor in 162. As the road now descends to the N.E. into the dreary valley of the _Oued Mérien_, we obtain on the right, beyond the 16th kilomètre-stone (10 M.), a fine view of the crest of the Kef Mahmel (p. 278), which is snow-clad in winter. Beyond the 24th kilomètre-stone (15 M.) we overlook a great part of the Aurès Mts. with Jebel Chelia (p. 278). On the left is _Jebel Taguertine_ (4511 ft.). After the 27th kilomètre-stone (17 M.) we sight, far to the S.E., at the foot of the spurs of the Aurès, the ruins of _Timgad_, where the two tall columns of the capitol gradually grow more conspicuous. The road to (23½ M. from Batna) Timgad, which diverges to the right beyond the 35th kilomètre-stone (21½ M.), crosses the Oued Mérien and ends on the N. side of the ruins. * * * * * =Timgad.=—HOTEL. _Hôtel Meille_, 4 min. to the N. of the ruins, opposite the Berber market (Thurs.), with a fine view of the Aurès Mts., R. 3–4, B. 1–1½, déj. 3½, D. 4 fr., plain but well spoken of. The RUINS may be visited at any time. The chief sights, named in the text in heavy type, may be cursorily seen within 2–3 hrs. For closer study _A. Ballu’s_ Guide Illustré de Timgad (at book-shops 2½, 3½ fr. at the Agence, p. 291, where photographs and picture post-cards also are sold) is valuable. Information as to recent excavations may be obtained from the inspector _M. Barry_.—Comp, also ‘Carthage, Timgad, Tébessa’, by _R. Cagnat_ (Paris, 1909). _Timgad_ (3520 ft.), known by the Berber name of _Thamugadi_ in the late-Roman period and one of the most thriving towns in the E. Algerian highlands, dates from 100 A. D., when the legate P. Munatius Gallus, commander of the Third Legion (p. 286), was ordered by Trajan to found the _Colonia Marciana Trajana Thamugadi_, probably about the same time as Lambæsis, as the key of the Fount Ksantina (p. 296). The town saw its prime in the second half of the 2nd and in the 3rd cent., but in the 4th cent., like Bagai (p. 273), it was a centre of the Donatist movement and suffered severely in the wars of the period. After fruitless attempts by the Vandals to revive it, Thamugadi was destroyed by the hostile Berber tribes of the Aurès Mts. in 535. Having been finally abandoned at the close of the Byzantine domination, the ruins of the town, with the exception of Trajan’s Arch, were gradually buried under the deposits of torrents, and for twelve centuries the place was consigned to complete oblivion. The excavations begun by the French government in 1880, and recently conducted by the architect A. Ballu, have brought to light the most important parts of the town, including the Forum, two Markets, the Capitol, and no less than eleven Thermæ. While the private houses are mostly unpretending and very inferior to those of Pompeii, the public buildings afford most striking evidence of the ancient prosperity of this remote Roman provincial town. The oldest town, laid out as a square camp (comp. p. 286) of 384 yds. each way, in conformity with its original destination as a frontier-fortress, has four central gates, between which ran the two main streets, the Cardo Maximus and the Decumanus Maximus, intersecting each other at right angles. The ‘Cardo Maximus Nord’ opens into the Decumanus at the Forum, where it stops owing to the unevenness of the soil. Some 90 yds. farther to the W., however, the ‘Cardo Maximus Sud’ leads out of the Decumanus. The rapid increase of the population, especially on the E. and W. sides, on the busy roads to Tebessa (p. 315) and Lambæsis, led as early as the 2nd cent. to the construction or extensive new streets on a less regular plan. By the 5th cent. the population, which had greatly declined, withdrew from the suburbs into the ancient walled precincts, which by this time had been much built over at places. The main streets are bordered with Doric colonnades and paved with bluish limestone slabs; the smaller streets have sandstone pavement. The waggon-ruts are deep, especially in the Decumanus Maximus, and are slightly farther apart than at Pompeii (4 ft. 3 in. and 4 ft. 1 in.). The excellent drainage-system is now utilized anew, as may be seen from the gutters at the street-corners. The usual building material was concrete (_opus incertum_, small stones mixed with mortar), often faced with brick, or stone-framework (the interstices being filled with brick or rubble-work). The private houses usually occupy an _Insula_, as the square block enclosed by four streets was called. The shops (_tabernae_) in the main streets were all entered from the street, except when the trader lived in the same house. As a rule the houses, like modern Moorish houses, have their backs turned to the street, looking into an arcaded court (peristyle) in Oriental fashion, instead of opening into a roofed atrium in the ancient Roman style. We begin our walk at the N. end of the town. On the right, just outside the old town-wall, lie the— *=Grands Thermes du Nord= (Pl. D, 1), the largest Roman baths in N. Africa. They form a rectangle of 88½ by 70½ yds., and contain thirty-five different chambers, all symmetrically constructed like others of the later Roman period. Parts of the walls are still 23 ft. in height. A flight of ten steps on the E. side of the building leads to the _Vestibulum_, the main entrance to the baths. The adjoining chamber on the left opens on to a suite of three spacious halls. The two outer ones were probably the _Palaestra_ for gymnastics and games. In the corner, obliquely opposite the entrance-wall, is a kind of shaft or passage leading to the _Apodyterium_ (undressing and dressing room). The central hall is the largest _Frigidarium_, containing three basins (_piscinae_). The chamber on the S. side, between the two smaller basins, served as a passage to the _Tepidarium_, for hot-air baths and massage. Adjoining the tepidarium on the S. is the largest _Caldarium_, with three hot-water basins (_alvei_). Two side-rooms were the _Laconica_ or sweating-baths. Adjacent to them were two smaller _Caldaria_, to the N. of which, next to the palæstra, were two other _Tepidaria_. The two rooms at the S.E. and S.W. corners of the baths, each with an ante-room (apodyterium?) and large semicircular niche, are supposed to have been _Frigidaria_.—As to _Heating Apparatus_, comp. p. 294. A little to the left of the main entrance to these Thermæ is the quaint _Mannikin Fountain_ (Pl. D, 1), restored from ancient fragments. The insignificant building on the E. side of the road is the =Agence-Musée= (Pl. D, E, 1), containing the offices of the directors of the excavations and a collection of objects found at Timgad. These, however, with the exception of some mosaics, the chief adornment of the African-Roman dwelling, show a provincial and mechanical style of art. Along the outside walls are ranged the larger sculptures, a great stone vase, fragments of buildings, and Saturn stelæ. The Entrance Room (I) contains pottery, including numerous lamps.—Room II. Smaller fragments of sculpture, bronze implements, etc.—Rooms III & IV. Desk-cases containing the most valuable finds, notably glass, clay-vases, small implements in bronze and bone. Under the cases are water-pines, etc.—Against the walls are placed mosaics: in R. III, Diana and Actæon, with the name of the artist (Selius), and Neptune in a quadriga; in R. IV, Jupiter and Antiope (inscription, ‘Filadelfis vita’), and Amphitrite on a marine centaur. We now enter the oldest part of the town by the central _Porte du Nord_ (Pl. D, 1), 13¼ by 5¾ yds., preserved only in its lower parts. Between the pillars of the gateway, once enriched with Corinthian half-columns and pilasters, are the ancient guard-rooms. On the floor are relics of an inscription of 149 A.D., which names Antoninus Pius as the restorer (or finisher) of the gateway. The first building on the left side of the CARDO MAXIMUS NORD, a street ascending steeply for 185 yds., is that of the Petits _Thermes du Nord_ (Pl. E, 1). On the left, beyond the fourth side-street, is the— *=Library= (Pl. E, 2), one of the most curious buildings in the town, resembling the library in the forum of Pompeii, which was once supposed to be a shrine of the Lares. The building is preceded by an open colonnade, with two small chambers on each side. Two side-doors lead into the rectangular book-rooms, while the central door, as in all antique libraries, opens into a kind of sanctuary, with a large central niche flanked by four recesses on each side (for the sacred images), and approached by a basement in three steps, with ornamental columns. The Cardo Maximus Nord leads to the main entrance to the Forum (see below) in the DECUMANUS MAXIMUS, the chief thoroughfare of the town. To the right, at the W. end of the latter, rises Trajan’s Arch (p. 295). We descend to the left. On the left, near the old E. gate of the inner town, are the _Grands Thermes de l’Est_ (Pl. F, 2), whose tepidarium contains remains of mosaic pavement. We turn back here, and in the third S. street off the Decumanus Maximus we come to the _Petits Thermes de l’Est_ (Pl. F, 2), where two of the rooms contain restored marble benches. Next, on the same side of the Decumanus, comes the *=Marché de l’Est= or _East Macellum_ (Pl. E, F, 2), the smaller town-market, very curiously planned. A flight of eight steps ascends to a semicircular vestibule occupying the middle of a platform 30 yds. wide and 2¼ yds. deep, on to the right and on to the left sides of which open six small shops, three of them facing the street and three the courtyard. The latter, really a double court, consists of two segments of a circle with a triangular fountain at their intersection. Adjacent, along the back-wall, right and left, are five stalls with the old stone counters. In the centre of each half-court is an open semicircular colonnade with water-runlets. Almost immediately to the W. of the market-hall, a later addition, is the =Maison aux Jardinières= (Pl. 4; E, 2), a private house with a fine garden-court, once adorned with flower-beds. These were enclosed by high segment-shaped stone balustrades. Near the _Fountain_ at the next street-corner, at the N.E. angle of the Forum, are the =Latrinæ= (Pl. 3; E, 2), the finest ancient building of the kind, with a washing-basin and excellent cleansing arrangements. The double seats (originally 25) have marble arms adorned with dolphins. A propylæum, with a vestibule (16 ft. wide) and twelve steps forms the main entrance to the *=Forum= (Pl. E, 2, 3), the focus of municipal life, to which foot-passengers only were admitted. It was completed in the reign of Trajan, and conforms pretty closely in plan to the rules laid down by Vitruvius. It forms a large rectangle, 110 by 65 yds.; the area or central space, 55 by 47 yds., is enclosed by Corinthian colonnades. The vestibule and area were once adorned by a crowd of equestrian statues of emperors and figures of distinguished governors of Numidia and eminent citizens. The so-called Marsyas, the symbol of civic liberty, marked Thamugadi as one of the most favoured colonies, whose inhabitants enjoyed the full rights of Roman citizenship. Besides the pedestals of thirty-two statues, we note also several representations of figures of a game (comp. p. 318) on the stone slabs of the pavement; among the inscriptions annexed is the light-hearted ‘venari lavari ludere ridere occ (hoc) est vivere’ (to hunt, bathe, play, and laugh is to live). The chambers on the N. side of the Forum were perhaps _Club Rooms_. The two-storied _Shops_ on the S. side opened, on the upper floor, into the Theatre Street (p. 293). The only building on the E. side of the Forum is the very dilapidated =Basilica= (Pl. E, 3), once the exchange and court of justice. Unlike most other ancient edifices of the kind, it is a single hall (31 by 16 yds.), with three niches at the N. end and five small chambers on the E. side. The large square niche at the S. end, at the foot of the theatre hill, served as a law-court. Of the buildings on the W. side of the Forum the two in the middle are the =Curia= (Pl. E, 3), where the town-council (ordo decurionum) met, a rectangle of 17 by 12 yds., with a colonnade in front and platform behind, and a small _Temple_ (Pl. 8; E, 3), preceded by a speaker’s platform (_rostra_), 6¾ ft. high. The purpose of the other buildings is unknown. Near the _Fountain_ at the N.W. angle of the Forum we turn to the S., out of the Decumanus into the Voie de la Curie, and thence to the left into the Voie du Théâtre (38 ft. wide), on the S. side of the Forum. The =Theatre= (Pl. E, 3), dating from 167, lies on the W. slope of an isolated hill. It held about 4000 spectators, but little of it is left, as the materials were used in building the Byzantine fortress (p. 296). The semicircular orchestra, with its three tiers for the places of honour (_bisellia_), allotted to the decuriones and other persons of distinction, is well preserved. The _Cavea_, or auditorium, 69½ yds. wide, rising on the hill-side, once had twenty-six tiers of seats, but of these the seven lowest only remain. The stage (_pulpitum_) has been destroyed with the exception of the front-wall, with its niches and steps, and the hyposcenium, consisting of brick pillars (29½ in. high), which supported the floor of the stage. The large colonnaded hall behind the former back-wall of the stage served as a promenade (‘foyer’). The hill behind the cavea of the theatre, where the remains of a _Temple Court_ have been unearthed, affords a splendid *Survey of the ruins. The view extends to the W. to the distant hills near Batna; to the S.E., beyond the great débris-strewn slopes of the lower hills, rise the Aurès Mts. From the centre of the theatre colonnade we may walk to the W. to the _Petits Thermes du Centre_ (Pl. E, 3), with admirably preserved heating apparatus in the caldarium and laconicum (p. 291) on the W. side. On the W. side of these baths runs the CARDO MAXIMUS SUD, the finely paved main street of the S. quarter of the town, leading past the entirely ruined S. Gate (Pl. E, 4) and the house of the Sertii (on the right; p. 294), and ending at a _Fountain_ in the Voie des Thermes. The *=Thermes du Sud= (Pl. E, 4), of the 2nd cent., extended in 198 and restored about the end of the 3rd cent., are the finest in the town next to the N. Thermæ. A peculiarity of this building consists in the three great Exedræ, semicircular projections on the N.E. and S. sides. The semicircle near the S. entrance contained the Latrinæ, now almost entirely destroyed. The great colonnaded hall near the N. entrance served as a promenade. From the Palæstra, 26 by 10 yds., the largest hall in the baths, bathers could enter the Apodyterium as well as the Frigidarium, flanked by its two piscinæ. The small ante-rooms behind the Frigidarium opened into the heated rooms: on the right the Tepidarium, on the left the large Caldarium with its three hot-water basins, and, straight in front, a smaller Caldarium with two basins. The quadrangular space between the caldaria was the Laconicum. The cellars on the S. side were partly occupied by the _Praefurnium_ (furnace room). Huge stoves (_furnaces_) heated the water in cylindrical boilers (_testudines_, no longer existing) and also the air, both for the _Hypocaustum_, or hollow floor resting on low brick pillars, and for the hollow tiles (_tubuli_) or nipple tiles (_tegulae mammatae_) with which the hollow walls of the hot rooms were lined. To the S.W. of the thermæ is an _Artisan Quarter_ with a pottery and a bronze-foundry. We may now visit the Byzantine Fortress (p. 296) or else go direct to the =House of the Sertii= (Pl. D, E, 4), one of the richest families in the town (comp. p. 295). This building, a great rectangle of 68 by 35½ yds., comprising no fewer than three insulæ or blocks, was built on the site of the ancient town-wall, and extends as far as the Voie du Capitole. The colonnade in the Cardo Maximus Sud opens on a square _Vestibulum_. Adjacent, on the right, were a shop of the owner’s, the lodge of the porter (_ostiarius_), and the stairs ascending to the bath-rooms (_balineum_). Next to the vestibule came the _Peristyle_, a colonnaded court in the Doric style, off which opened the owner’s reception-room (_tablinum_), the dining-room (_triclinium_), and several bedrooms (_cubicula_). On the left there was a staircase to the upper story. A second peristyle, with a fountain-basin and a fish-pond (_vivarium_) was flanked by the offices. The large room at the back was the banqueting-room (_oecus_). On the W. side of the building were several shops for letting. On the W. side of the inner town, outside the town-wall, which has here been built over, runs the broad VOIE DU CAPITOLE, at the upper end of which rises the— *=Capitol= (Pl. C, D, 4; comp. p. 288), originally one of the grandest temples in the whole country. A flight of four steps ascends to the propylæum, a portico of twelve columns lately re-erected. The vast temple-court is an irregular quadrangle of about 98 by 68–73 yds.; the peribolos or enclosing wall was restored, according to an inscription, under Valentinian I. in 365. Still later the S. colonnade was converted into a closed corridor with shops. In the middle of the court is the basement of the ancient altar. A lofty flight of steps, originally 38, broken halfway up by a platform, formed the approach to the temple (58 by 25 yds.). The cella, now destroyed, had three niches, a portico of six columns, and lateral colonnades, while the back-wall was closed. Two of the gigantic columns of the portico, 44 ft. high, have been re-erected, while the huge drums and capitals of others lie around, notably on the S. side of the temple. We now walk down the Voie du Capitole to the =Marché de l’Ouest= (Pl. D, 3), or _West Macellum_, the largest covered market in the town, probably built by one of the Sertii (p. 294) early in the 3rd century. The entrance is in the small Place du Marché, on the S. side of the Decumanus Maximus. The entrance colonnade (_chalcidicum_) leads into the quadrangle, 37 by 27 yds., paved with large slabs of limestone and surrounded by colonnades. In the centre originally stood a square fountain (_tholos_). At the N. end, near the entrance, were two shops on each side and the stairs to the upper floor. The most curious feature of the building is the raised *_Exedra_, once roofed, on the S. side of the court, with seven deep recesses, closed, like those of the E. Market (p. 292), by the stone counters of the sellers. Remains of the entablature are exhibited on the outer wall. The rectangular ‘_Marché aux Vêtements_’ (Pl. C, D, 3), on the W. side of the Place du Marché, was probably a minor market. Close by, on the N. side of the Decumanus Maximus, rises the small _Temple du Génie de Timgad_ (Pl. C, D, 3, 4), ‘a miniature capitol’, dedicated in 151 to the genius of the colony. Three flights of steps ascend to the temple-court with relics of the altar. The temple, with its four Corinthian columns in front, is a mere ruin. We next visit *=Trajan’s Arch= (Pl. D, 3), the best-known triumphal arch in Algeria, an extremely massive structure, 40 ft. high, much restored in 1900. This was once the W. gate of the inner town (comp. p. 296). Instead of the usual corner-columns of the earlier triumphal arches, it has on each side four projecting Corinthian columns, whose entablature is relieved with rounded pediments in front of the attica. The two middle columns on the E. side terminate in eagles holding thunderbolts in their talons, instead of in volutes as in the usual capital. Of its three passages, which could be closed by means of portcullises, the central one was for vehicles, the two side-arches for foot-passengers. The square niches over the side-gateways, each crowned with an ædicula, were originally adorned with statues. We now return to the inner part of the town. Between the first and the second S. side-street of the Decumanus Maximus is the _Maison de la Piscina_ (Pl. D, 3), a large dwelling-house occupying two insulæ, so named from the granite basin in the peristyle, adorned with nine little columns of red marble. The œcus, or festal hall, at the S. end, has a tasteful mosaic pavement. Between the second and third S. side-streets of the Decumanus Maximus lies the open quadrangle of a _Granary_ (horreum), containing numerous grindstones (pilons à blé; Pl. 7, D 3). The house beyond the third side-street contains a _Cellar_ (hypogæum) resting on pillars and lighted by small windows. The fourth N. side-street of the Decumanus Maximus, in a line with the Voie de la Curie, leads to the ruins of a =Monastery= of the Byzantine age, containing a balineum or bathroom. The _Basilica_ (Pl. 2, D, 2) is a complete ruin. To the N.W. of it is the _Baptistery_ (Pl. 1; D, 2), with relics of the font and its colonnade. The _House of Januarius_ (Pl. 5; D, E 2), to the N.E. of the church, still has its balineum. * * * * * Time permitting, we may visit the ruins outside the town. From the great N. Thermæ (p. 290) we may walk past the _Dépôt des Tapis Indigènes_, where the carpets made by the Berbers of the Aurès are sold (adm. free), to other remains of _Thermes_ (Pl. C, 1). To the S. of this point lies the early-Christian =Cathedral= (Pl. C, 2), separated by a low hill from the outer Decumanus Maximus. This was a basilica with nave and two aisles, 42 by 18½ yds., with clustered columns and traces of the choirscreen and altar-basement. The sacristies (prothesis and diaconicon), adjoining the raised apse, seem to have been entered from the aisles only. We next cross the hill and descend to the S.W. to the outer Decumanus Maximus. Here, on the left, quite near the bed of a recently formed torrent, is the _Château d’Eau_ (Pl. B, 3), the remains of an octagonal nymphæum or fountain. Crossing the bed of the stream, and passing, on the left, the _Thermes du Nord-Ouest_ (Pl. B, 2), we reach the outer _Porte de l’Ouest_ (Pl. B, 2), a single gateway of the age of Marcus Aurelius, well preserved in its lower parts. From the Nymphæum we ascend on the right bank of the brook towards the Capitol (p. 294), past an early-Christian _Chapel_ (Pl. C, 4), almost destroyed by the stream. Another early-Christian _Basilica_ lies to the S.W. of the Capitol. In the vicinity a large _Monastery_, including a church and a baptistery containing a font with fine mosaics, has recently been discovered. Climbing over the hill to the S. of the Capitol, we have another survey of the extensive ruins, and then walk to the S. to the Byzantine fortress, 5 min. beyond the S. Thermæ (p. 293). The *=Byzantine Fortress= (beyond Pl. E, 4), erected under Justinian with stones from the theatre, the Capitol, and other Roman buildings for defence against the Aurès Berbers, forms a vast rectangle, 122 by 80 yds., with walls 8 ft. thick, still rising to a height of 23 ft. on the W. side. Four central and four corner towers, and on the S. side a sallying gate, have been preserved. The so-called _Gregory’s Basilica_, on a hill 3 min. to the S.W. of the fortress, the latest building in the town, dates only from the time of the governor Gregory (7th cent.; p. 371). About 2 hrs. to the S.W. of Timgad lie the ruins of the ancient Berber town of =Ichoukkàn=, on a lofty plateau inaccessible on three sides, above the rock-gateway of _Foum Ksantina_ (‘Constantine-Gate’), so called from the resemblance of its situation to that of Constantine. Near it are extensive burial-grounds with thousands of graves. [Illustration: CONSTANTINE] 46. Constantine. The STATION (Pl. D, 4; _Rail. Restaurant_) for Algiers (R. 43), Biskra (R. 44), Philippeville (R. 47), Bona (R. 48), and Souk-Ahras (Tebessa, Tunis; RR. 49–51) is in the Faubourg d’el-Kantara, on the right bank of the Rhumel, 15–18 min. from the hotels. HOTELS (comp. p. 174). _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. a; B, 4, 5), Rue Nationale 2, corner of Place de Nemours, with good restaurant, R. 3½–5, B. 1–1½, déj. 3½, D 4–5, pens. 10–12½ fr., omn. 1 fr.; _Hôt. St. Georges & d’Orient_ (Pl. b; B, 4), Rue Caraman 9, R. 3, pens. 10, omn. ¾ fr., good cuisine; _Hôt. de Paris & Royal_ (Pl. c; B, 4), Rue Nationale and Place de Nemours, R. 4, B. 1½, D. 4, pens. 9–11, omn. 1½ fr.—_Hôt. Terminus_, near the station, for a short stay, R. 3, déj. or D. 3 fr., plain but quite good; _Hôt. Rouvière_ (Pl. e; B, 4), unpretending but well spoken of. CAFÉS. _Café Germain_, Place de Nemours; _Café Glacier_, Place du Palais 8; _Café Honorat_, in the Hôt. de Paris, Place de Nemours (music in the evening).—RESTAURANTS (beer). _Taverne Gambrinus_, Rue Caraman 6; _Brasserie de l’Etoile_, Place de Nemours. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. 10; B, 5), Place de Nemours. CABS (stand, Place de Nemours), first ½ hr. 1¼ (after 10 p.m. 1½) fr.; for 1 hr. 2½, each addit. ½ hr. 1 fr.; half-day (6 hrs.) 10, whole day (12 hrs.) 20 fr.—OMNIBUS from the Place de Nemours to the Station 10, trunk 25 c.; also to the Faubourg St. Jean. BATHS. _Bains Lyonnais_, Rue Damrémont; _Bains Rémès_, in the ravine of the Rhumel (p. 302). BOOKSELLERS. _Braham_, Rue du Palais 4; _Roubille_, Rue Damrémont 37.—NEWSPAPER. _Dépêche de Constantine._ THEATRE. _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. B, 5; Nov.–Feb. only), Place de Nemours. ONE DAY. Forenoon, _Place de Nemours_ and _Squares_, _Museum_, _Palais de Hadj Ahmed_, _Jewish Quarter_, *_Quartier Perrégaux_ (pp. 299–301). Afternoon, *_Gorges du Rhumel_ (p. 301). Guide quite unnecessary. _Constantine_ (1752–2113 ft.; pop. 55,000, incl. 28,300 Mohammedans and 8300 Jews), Arabic _Ksantina_ or _Blad el-Hawa_ (‘cité aérienne’, ‘town of air’), the capital of the province of that name and the seat of a bishop and of a medersa (Mohammedan college), is the third-largest town in Algeria. The old town, typically Berber in its difficulty of access, lies on a chalky limestone plateau, descending to the S.E. and N.E. almost perpendicularly to the _Ravine of the Rhumel_, and to the N.W. to the bed of a brook, while on the S.W. it is connected by a narrow saddle with the spurs of the long _Jebel Chettaba_ (4313 ft.). The town has three suburbs, the small _Faubourg d’el-Kantara_ near the station, and the faubourgs _St. Jean_ and _St. Antoine_ on the margin of the _Coudiat-Aty_ (Pl. A, 5, 6), a hill recently almost levelled to form a building-site. Constantine is the centre of the Algerian grain-trade and has an important wool-exchange. Several manufactures too are very active (tanning, shoemaking, saddlery, and weaving). The chief centres of trade and manufacture are still the native quarters, resembling the Kasba of Algiers, the picturesque charm of which has so far been marred by the construction of but few new streets. The gay costumes of the Mohammedans and the mediæval attire of the Jewesses are specially interesting. Constantine has but a poor climate. Spring is the best season for visiting it. In winter the cold (p. 170) is very severe and the winds are often bitter, while in summer and autumn the hot sirocco is more prevalent than anywhere on the coast. The low ground flanking the Rhumel is malarious from June to October. Constantine, originally the Phœnician _Kartha_ (‘town’), afterwards called _Cirta_ by the Romans, was the greatest inland centre of culture in the territory of the Numidian kings, and under Syphax became their residence. The first recorded conquest of the town was by Jugurtha (p. 321), in B.C. 112, who wrested it from his cousin Adherbal. Under the Roman empire Cirta, the chief of the four allied _Coloniæ Cirtenses_ (Constantine, Milo, Philippeville, and Collo), belonged to the _Diocesis Numidia_, the domain of the legate of the Third Legion (p. 286). Having been destroyed by the troops of Emp. Maxentius in 311, the town sprang up anew from its ruins the following year; it then superseded Lambæsis as the capital of Numidia, and was named _Constantina_, in honour of its patron Constantine the Great. In 435 it was the only town in Barbary that repelled the attacks of the Vandal Genseric (p. 322), but it remained politically unimportant till the Moorish period, when it was occupied by the Hammadites (p. 263), and afterwards belonged in turn to the Almohades (p. 95), the Merinides (p. 95), and the Hafsides (p. 323). In the middle ages it rivalled Bougie as a seat of learning. In the Turkish period Constantine was the capital of the E. Algerian beylic, and for centuries groaned under the despotism of the beys. In French military annals it was noted for its heroic defence by _Ahmed Bey_, who after the fall of Algiers had become the independent ruler of E. Algeria. In 1836 the first French attack upon the El-Kantara gate from the hill of Mansoura proved a disastrous failure, over five hundred of the besiegers being hurled into the ravine of the Rhumel. The capture of the town in 1837, effected from the Coudiat-Aty, was purchased with the death of generals Damrémont and Perrégaux. During the first decades of the French domination all the Roman buildings were destroyed except the aqueduct (p. 302), the Rhumel bridge (p. 301), and the cisterns (p. 300). The buildings of the Turkish period afford an instructive example of the sad decline of late-Moorish art. The railway-station (Pl. D, 4) is at present connected with the old town by the iron bridge of *=El-Kántara= (Pl. D, 3; 1863), of one arch, 139 yds. long and 407 ft. above the Rhumel. Far below we see the Roman bridge (p. 301), and upstream we have a fine view of the S. part of the gorge. Much higher up is the _New Bridge_ (comp. Pl. C, 6), a marvellous feat of engineering. It spans the Rhumel ravine, at a height of 330 ft. above the river, with a single arch of masonry, 230 ft. in width. From the former Porte d’el-Kantara runs the new RUE NATIONALE (Pl. C, B, 4), the chief thoroughfare of Constantine, leading through the whole town to (½ M.) the Place de Nemours. Halfway, where the street bends and is crossed by the Rue Perrégaux (p. 301), rises the new _Medersa_ (Pl. 7, C 4; see p. 297) in the Turkish-Moorish style; from its staircase we enjoy an even finer view of the Rhumel ravine than from the crossroads. Halfway along the upper part of the street, on the left, rises the =Grande Mosquée= (Pl. B, 4, 5; Arabic _Jâma el-Kebîr_), which received a new façade and minaret when the street was made. The very dissimilar columns which support the timber ceiling in the interior are partly from ancient buildings. Two antique Doric capitals recall the columns of the mausoleum of Le Khroub (p. 273). The noisy and dusty PLACE DE NEMOURS or _Place de la Brèche_ (Pl. B, 4, 5; 2054 ft. above sea-level), on the site of the _Bâb el-Djadia_ or _Porte de la Brèche_, is the chief scene of the town’s traffic. A few paces to the S.W., between the old town and the _Coudiat-Aty_ (p. 297), are two public gardens. On the left, next the street leading to the new bridge, is the pretty _Square No. 1_ (Pl. A, B, 5), with a bronze statue of Valée; and on the right _Square No. 2_ (Pl. A, 5), with numerous Roman antiquities. The latter affords a splendid view of Jebel Chettaba (p. 297), of the lower valley of the Rhumel visible a long way down, and of the distant heights of El-Kantour (p. 303). The road between the two squares proceeds to the S.W. to the _Monument of Gen. Lamoricière_ (Pl. A, 5) by Belloc (1909), in front of the _Halle aux Grains_.—From the latter the new _Viaduct_ (comp. Pl. A-C, 5, 6; 490 yds.), now under construction, will eventually lead to the New Bridge (p. 298). Beneath the Hôtel de Paris et Royal (p. 297), at the E. corner of the Place de Nemours, a flight of 90 steps descends to some interesting _Grottoes_ (adm. 1 fr.), whose sparkling, rose-shaped crystals of gypsum produce a very unique effect.—From the N. angle of the square the Boul. de l’Ouest leads along the town-wall to the HÔTEL DE VILLE (Pl. 6; A, B, 4), of 1903, whose staircase and vestibule are enriched with onyx and six kinds of marble from Aïn-Smara (p. 272). The first floor contains the _Town Library_ and behind it the— =Musée de Constantine=, comprising antiquities and natural history collections. Adm. (except Sun. and Tues.) 9–11 and 3–5, 50 c. Conservator, M. Ulysse Hinglais. Catalogue (1905) 1 or 5 fr. On the STAIRCASE are Roman mosaics. ROOM I. In the central cases are prehistoric finds from the Tell Atlas and the Oued Rhir (p. 285); Byzantine and early-Moorish antiquities from Morsott (p. 314) and Kalâa des Beni-Hammad (p. 270); natural history specimens (incl. vegetable fibres utilized industrially). The wall-presses contain fossils from the hill of Mansoura (p. 302) and Jebel Sidi M’Cid; Phœnician and Roman antiquities from the necropolises of the Coudiat-Aty, of Collo, Bulla Regia, etc. (clay vases, fine Roman bronzes, a glass cinerary urn, trinkets, cut gems). By the wall of exit are Spanish-Moorish, Italian, and Kabylian ceramics, Moorish fayence from Tlemcen, Nabeul (p. 365), etc.; a late-Moorish door; a Turkish executioner’s sword from Khenchela. Here too are a map of the artesian wells in the province of Constantine and a model of a boring apparatus. ROOM II. The show-cases contain coins and medals. In the wall-presses, natural history specimens; marble and onyx from Aïn-Smara. On the walls, a small collection of pictures. GALLERY (on the left of R. I). Large Roman clay vessels, neo-Punic and Roman stelæ, Roman sculptures, Moorish fragments, casts. From the Boul. de l’Ouest the Boul. du Nord (Pl. A, B, 4, 3; fine views) and (to the right) the Rue du Rocher lead to the _Kasba_ (p. 300). The busiest streets of the European quarter, where many of the inhabitants are Italians and Maltese, are the RUE CARAMAN (Pl. B, 4) with the Rue Chevalier, the Rue d’Aumale, and the RUE DAMRÉMONT (Pl. B, 4, 3), all to the N. of the Place de Nemours. Between these lines of streets lies the spacious PLACE DU PALAIS (Pl. B, 4). The =Palais de Hadj Ahmed= (Pl. B, 4; now military headquarters), on the N.E. side of the square, built by Ahmed Bey in 1828–35, contains four picturesque courts, adorned with tiles. The front court is decorated with clumsy frescoes depicting chief towns of the Orient. The interior is not shown. Concierge ½ fr. The =Cathedral= (Pl. 2, B 4; _Notre-Dame des Sept-Douleurs_), on the E. side of the Place du Palais, was once the Market Mosque (_Jâma Sûk er-Rezel_), with its nave and double aisles, built in 1707. The women’s galleries next the entrance-wall now contain the organ. The choir is a modern addition. In the outer right aisle, in the middle of the E. wall, with its well-preserved tile and stucco decoration, is the old mihrâb (p. 180), now a chapel. The mimbar in the inner left aisle is now the pulpit; behind it is a copy of the inscription on the Rocher des Martyrs (p. 301). The Rue Caraman, continued by the Rue Chevalier, and the Rue de France (Pl. B, C, 4, 3) both lead to the N.E. to the PLACE NÉGRIER (Pl. C, 3), in which rises the Mosque of _Sidi el-Kettani_ (Pl. 8; B, C, 3), built by Sala-Bey. The first floor of the building contains a marble mimbar executed by Italian sculptors. On the N. side of the square is a new _Synagogue_ (Pl. 11; C, 3). At the N. end of the town, partly on the site of the Roman capitol, is the old =Kasba= (Pl. B, 3; 2116 ft.; 666 ft. above the Rhumel), now a group of new buildings, including barracks and the military hospital. Of the _Roman Cisterns_, originally a quadrangle of 164 by 39 yds., about one-third has been preserved and is now again in use. The view from the garden of the _Artillery Arsenal_ (Pl. B, C, 2, 3), at the N. end of the Kasba, immediately above the ravine of the Rhumel, is justly extolled. Adm. by leave of the military authorities (Palais de Hadj Ahmed; see above). Entrance in the Rue Damrémont (p. 299). From the Kasba the new _Suspension Bridge_ (‘Pont Suspendu’; Pl. C, D, 2, 3) crosses the Rhumel at a height of 590 ft. to the _Hôpital Civil_ (Pl. D, 2). The *=Native Quarters=, intersected by the upper Rue Nationale, with their lively, picturesque, crooked streets, lie in the lower part of the town, between the Place de Nemours, Rue Caraman, Rue de France, and the Rhumel ravine (p. 301). The most interesting streets are those inhabited by Mohammedan artisans, largely Mozabites (p. 216), between the Rue Combes (Pl. B, 4) and the Rue Vieux (Pl. B, C, 4, 3), both of which lead to the N.E. to the Place Rahbet es Souf (‘wool-market’) or Place des Galettes (Pl. C, 4), with its _Market Hall_. Between this square and the Boul. de l’Est (Pl. C, 3), a fine point of view, lies the _Jewish Quarter_, which is worth seeing, especially on Saturdays. Still more picturesque than these quarters is the purely Mohammedan *_Quartier Perrégaux_, which descends the triangular S. part of the rocky plateau, often in steep steps, from the Rue Nationale to the Rhumel Ravine. Through this quarter runs the RUE PERRÉGAUX (Pl. C, B, 4, 5), the chief thoroughfare between the Rue Nationale and the old Turkish _Porte Djebia_ (Pl. B, 5). Near this gate, at the corner of the Rue Perrégaux and Rue des Tanneurs, is a _Mosque Portal_ with charming tile-decoration. From the Rue Perrégaux we may descend by the Rue de l’Arc and (to the right) the Rue de l’Alma, or direct by the Rue Morland, under the new bridge, to the small kubba of =Sidi-Rached= (Pl. B, C, 6; 1752 ft.). From the adjacent rocky height we have a grand view of the upper Rhumel ravine. Opposite, near the old _Pont du Diable_ (Pl. B, C, 6), is the _Rocher des Martyrs_, bearing an old inscription in memory of the Christian martyrs of 259. * * * * * The **=Gorges du Rhumel=, the grandest ravines in the Tell Atlas, present a most impressive scene, especially during the melting of the snow or after heavy rain, but in summer much of their charm is lost owing to the lowness of the stream and the stench of the tanneries. The gorge was first made accessible in 1895 by the _Chemin des Touristes_, a path 1¾ M. in length, constructed by the engineer Fr. Rémès. From the S. entrance (Pl. C, 6; 1811 ft.), near the new bridge, it descends parallel with the Chemin du Rhumel (10 min. above the station), close past the main entrance (see below) and under the El-Kantara bridge and the new Suspension Bridge to the lower end of the ravine (1512 ft). It is to be connected with the new N. entrance (Pl. B, 2), on the Corniche road (p. 302), by a side-branch. Tourists pressed for time may go direct from the station to the S. entrance, walk down the gorge as far as the grottoes, turn back there, and then leave by the main entrance. A ticket for the day (2 fr., or for repeated visits ½ fr. each time) admits also to a bath in the Bains Rémès. The main-entrance, near the so-called Porte Vitruve (1730 ft.), is reached from the Boul. de l’Est, 45 yds. to the N. of the old El-Kantara gate (p. 298), by an uncomfortable path descending in steps; another descends from the Corniche road on the opposite side (‘Entrée’; Pl. D, 3), 3 min. below the bridge. Before entering the gorge we may glance at the remains of the _Roman Bridge_, which crosses the river at the narrowest part, 66 yds. across. The sculptures, two elephants and a weather-worn relief of Africa, belonged perhaps to a still older bridge. From the ticket-office we first walk upstream, on the right bank, by the UPPER PATH, often up and down steps. The rocky sides of the gorge are enlivened by numerous storks, pigeons, and hawks; far below us the river dashes down its stony bed. High above peep the picturesque houses of the native quarter. On the left bank are the _Bains Rémès_, with a hot spring (90° Fahr.), and remains of a Roman _Aqueduct_. They are reached by a side-path to the right, ca. 220 yds. beyond the ticket-office. The baths, or _Piscinae_, originally Roman, have been entirely renewed. Farther up (¼ hr.), a path in steps ascends to the left, under the new bridge, not far from the Pont du Diable and the Pointe de Sidi-Rached (comp. p. 301), to the S. entrance. We now return to the chief entrance, and near the office descend to the left, by a path with steps and iron stairs, to the *_Grottoes_, 230 ft. high at places, through which the river flows, mostly underground, for a distance of 330 yds.; the huge dome of rock is specially impressive when viewed from the middle of the iron footbridge. A winding staircase next descends to the LOWER PATH, with its wire-fence and benches. Passing below the new Suspension Bridge (p. 300) we reach the last arch of rock (retrospect of the grottoes) and in a few minutes the lower (N.W.) end of the gorge, above the _Cascades_ (Pl. B, 2). Those who do not care to return to the El-Kantara bridge may ascend direct from the last archway to the Corniche road. The Rhumel Fall, dashing over rock-terraces to a depth of 212 ft., the precipice below the Kasba, and the Rocher Sidi M’Cid (see below) are all admirably viewed from the =Moulins Lavie= (Pl. A, 2), on the left bank, 10 min. from Square No. 2 (p. 299). The traveller should not omit to take a short walk on the superb *=Route de la Corniche= (Pl. D-B, 3–1), starting from the El-Kantara bridge. Below the _Hôpital Civil_ (p. 300) two short tunnels carry the road through the _Rocher Sidi M’Cid_, an offshoot of Jebel Sidi M’Cid (2575 ft). The finest point is (¼ hr.) a small projecting platform at a bend in the road, whence we look down on the Rhumel Fall and the baths of Sidi M’Cid. In a dale at the N. base of the Rocher Sidi M’Cid lies the pleasant _Hammam Sidi M’Cid_ (Pl. B, 1), with saline springs and two large swimming-baths. The ‘GRAND TOUR’ (1–1¼ hr.; carr. 3–4 fr.; bargain advisable) is a favourite drive by the Route de Sétif (Pl. A, 5, 6; affording a fine retrospect of the Quartier Perrégaux), and across the uppermost Rhumel bridge, to the _Roman Aqueduct_ (p. 274); thence from the Route de Batna to the right to the _Pépinière_, in a dale full of fruit-trees, and charming in spring; lastly over the pine-clad _Mansoura Hill_, crowned with a fort, and back by the Chemin de Mansoura (Pl. D, 5) to the bridge of El-Kantara. From Constantine to _Algiers_, see R. 43; to _Bona_, see R. 48; to _Biskra_, see R. 44; to _Philippeville_, see R. 47; to _Djidjelli_ (_Bougie_), see R. 42; to _Souk-Ahras_, see R. 49; to _Tunis_, see RR. 49, 51. 47. From Constantine to Philippeville. 54 M. RAILWAY in 3–4¾ hrs. (9 fr. 75, 7 fr. 30, 5 fr. 35 c.). Railway Restaurant at Col-des-Oliviers. _Constantine_, see p. 297. Running to the N., the line pierces the _Rocher Sidi M’Cid_ (p. 302) by tunnels, proceeds high above _Hammam Sidi M’Cid_ (p. 302) and the Rhumel, with a splendid retrospect of Constantine, and then curves round to (4½ M.) _Le Hamma_ (1614 ft.), station for the _Oasis du Hamma_, a luxuriantly fertile dale with countless fruit-trees, watered by the Hamma and several springs. 8 M. _Bizot_ (1805 ft.). It then descends to the _Oued Smendou_, a tributary of the Rhumel, and ascends its right bank to (17 M.) _Condé-Smendou_ (1838 ft.). We cross several feeders of the Oued Safsaf (see below) and pass through the _Hills of El-Kantour_ in several tunnels, below the pass of that name, now called also _Col-des-Oliviers_. 25½ M. _Col-des-Oliviers_ (1365 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), station for a group of small villages inhabited by immigrant farmers. Thence a steep, winding descent, in a hill-region denuded of its forest, to (31 M.) _Bougrina_, like Robertville, a station for the large village of _El-Arrouch_. 35½ M. =Robertville= (348 ft.; several inns), a village on the _Oued Ahmar_, is the starting-point of the fine hill-roads through the _Massif de Philippeville_ viâ (23 M.) _Bordj Tamalous_ to (40 M.) _Collo_ (p. 131; diligence twice daily in 8 hrs.), and to _Djidjelli_ (p. 267; motor-omnibus, see p. 267). The train now descends into the valley of the _Oued Safsaf_, where wild olives, poplars, and cork-trees abound. 42½ M. _St. Charles_ (138 ft.; Hôt. du Lion d’Or), the oldest farming settlement in the district, founded by Germans and Belgians in 1840, was at first defended by four small forts. FROM ST. CHARLES TO BONA, 61½ M., railway in 4–5 hrs. (7 fr. 50, 5 fr. 5, 4 fr. 5 c.). 9 M. _Râs el-Ma_, with a quicksilver-mine; 15½ M. =Jemmapes= (312 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient; pop. 2800), on the _Oued Fendek_, a little town founded in 1848, the chief place on the roads from Philippeville to Bona and to Guelma (p. 308); 19½ M. _Oued-Hammimine_, a small bath-hotel (pens. with bath 6 fr.), with three hot sulphur-springs (95–115° Fahr.; season Sept.–Nov. only); 41 M. _Aïn-Mokra_ (85 ft.), on a slope near the malarious flats of _Lac Fetzara_, a swamp of about 35,000 acres, and the now abandoned iron-mines of the Comp. du Mokta el-Hadid; 45½ M. _Aïn-Daliah_, for the new mine of _Marouania_ belonging to the same company. 61½ M. _Bona_, see p. 309. We descend the narrow Safsaf valley to (47½ M.) _Safsaf_. 50½ M. _Damrémont_ (33 ft.) is the station also for _Valée_ (122 ft.), a village on the vine-clad right bank, on the Bona and Guelma road (see above).—The train leaves the Safsaf, crosses its tributary _Oued Zeramna_ (p. 305), and passes through a tunnel under the W. slope of _Mont Skikda_ (p. 304). 54 M. =Philippeville.=—The STATION (Pl. C, 2; no buffet) is not far from the quay, a few paces from Place de Marqué. ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. RR. 20, 22). The steamers of the Gén. Transatlantique (agent, Fauré, Place de Marqué) moor at the quay; those of the Transports Maritimes (agent, Caffa) and of the Navigation Mixte (agents, Daprela & Campiglia, Place du Commerce) anchor in the Grande Darse (Pl. C, D, 1). Cab-fares, see below. Portefaix (porter) for articles under 20 kilos (44 lbs.) to the station 25, to the town 40 c.; trunk 50 or 75 c. HOTELS (comp. p. 174). _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. a; C, 2), Place de Marqué, with fine views, R. 3–5, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 8½ fr., good; _Hôt. Foy_, same square (Pl. B, 2), new, R. 3–6 fr., B. 60 c., déj. or D. 2½, pens. from 8 fr.; _Hôt. de France & de la Marine_ (Pl. b; B, 2), same square, No. 3, R. 2–3, B. ¾, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; _Hôt. Léger_, Rue Nationale, R. 2–5, B. ¾, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 6–7 fr., plain but good; _Nouvelle Poste_ (Pl. d; B, 2), Place du Commerce, _Cinq Nations_ (Pl. e; C, 3), Rue de Constantine, corner of Rue Gambetta, both plain. CAFÉS-RESTAURANTS. _Café de Foy_, at the hotel (see above); _Boutin_, Plage du Château-Vert (in summer). POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. 5; B, 2), Place du Commerce. BANKS. _Banque de l’Algérie_, Avenue du Troisième-Zouaves; _Comp. Algérienne_ and _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue Nationale 30 and 51. BATHS in the _Grand-Hôtel_; also _Tenienski_, Rue Buffon.—SEA BATHS. _Bassin du Château-Vert_ (see below); at _Stora_ (p. 306), etc. THEATRE. _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. 7; B, C, 3), Place Corneille (sometimes Italian pieces).—BAND on Sun. in the Place de Marqué. CABS (stand, Place Corneille). Drive 1 fr.; first hr. 2½, each addit. hr. 2 fr.; half-day 10, whole day 18 fr.—DILIGENCE to Stora (50 c.), St. Antoine (25 c.), etc. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _W. H. Miller_, Rue Téophile Réguis. _Philippeville_ (Arabic _Skikda_; pop. 26,000, incl. 16,000 Europeans, mostly Italians and Maltese, and 4800 Mohammedans), the youngest Algerian seaport, was founded by Marshal Valeé in 1838 as a harbour for Constantine. It lies on the fine _Gulf of Stora_ (p. 128), about 1 M. to the W. of the mouth of the Safsaf (p. 303), in a ravine between _Mont Skikda_ (548 ft.) to the E. and _Jebel Bou Yala_ to the S.W. Its site is that of the ancient _Rusicade_, once a Phœnician town, but founded anew by the Romans in 45 B.C. Under the empire, as the _Colonia Veneria Rusicade_, it belonged to the league of Cirta (p. 298), but, according to local tradition, it had ceased to exist by 484. The chief harbour in the gulf, being well sheltered, was formerly the neighbouring _Asthoret_, now _Stora_ (p. 306), but it has been superseded by that of Philippeville, constructed in 1860–80 at a cost of some 20 million francs. The =Harbour=, after Bona (p. 309) the chief outlet for the produce of the province of Constantine, consists of an excellent inner basin of 50 acres (_Grande Darse_; Pl. C, D, 1) and an _Avant-Port_ (Pl. A, B, 1) of 75 acres. The _Grande Jetée du Nord_ (Pl. D, 1), running out from Cape Skikda, is 1 M., the _Jetée du Château-Vert_ (Pl. A, 1), on the W. side, ¼ M. in length. The best points for viewing the harbour and bay are the _Place de Marqué_ (Pl. B, C, 2; popularly _Pl. de la Marine_), the pretty _Petit Bois_ or _Jardin de l’Hôpital_ (Pl. C, 2), adjacent on the E., and the lofty _Place des Zouaves_ (Pl. D, 2, 3; drilling-ground). [Illustration: PHILIPPEVILLE] Past the Place de Marqué runs the RUE NATIONALE (Pl. B, C, 2–4), the main street, connecting the chief gates, the N.W. _Porte de Stora_ (Pl. B, 2) and the S. _Porte de Constantine_ (Pl. C, 4), whence issue the Constantine, Bona, and Guelma roads. The narrow gorge affords room for only a few parallel streets. The side-streets ascend the hill-sides partly in steps. The _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. 7; B, C, 3), in the narrow Place du Commerce, on the W. side of the Rue Nationale, stands on the foundations of a Roman temple. A little farther, on the E. side of the street, is the pretty _Square Carnot_ (Pl. C, 3).—To the W. from this square the Rue Gambetta leads to the _Collège Communal_ (Pl. B, 3). On the N.E. slope of Jebel Bou Yala, behind the school (apply to the concierge here, 30–50 c.) lies the— =Roman Theatre=, the largest in Algeria, erected at the earliest under Hadrian; but as it was used as a quarry for building the modern town, little of it is now left. Of the cavea, 90 yds. wide, which held 5–6000 spectators, only a few steps, two passages, and relics of vaulting remain. The stage is below the school-building. From the Rue Gambetta the Rue Valée (Pl. B, C, 3, 4) leads through the heart of the Mohammedan quarter to the Rue St. Augustin and the— =Museum= (Pl. 3; C, 4). The collections include some valuable Roman antiquities. Adm. daily, 8–6; Sun. and Thurs. free; on other days 1 fr.; catalogue (1901) 1 fr. 10 c.; curator, M. L. Bertrand. The GARDEN contains numerous Roman columns, statues, etc. The PAVILLON CENTRAL has archæological collections on the groundfloor. In the centre, 173. Roman milestone, from Hadrian’s road from Rusicade to Cirta (p. 298); 151. Antoninus Pius, in marble. In the first wall-press are objects from Roman tombs, mostly from Rusicade; 687. Genius, a statuette in marble. Detached, 749. Punic tomb-stela. In the second wall-press, Roman vases and lamps; also, *805. Bust of a youth, after an Attic work of the age of Praxiteles; 806. Bust of Agrippina the Elder; 778. Punic stela of the goddess Tanit, from Carthage; 779. Mithras stone; 783. Boy’s head; 904. Clay statuette of a woman bathing; 968. Bust of Hadrian. By the following end-wall, Roman inscriptions and altars. At the other end, one early-Christian (293) and two late-Roman sarcophagi (224, 331), Roman inscriptions, etc.—The 1st Floor contains ethnographical and natural history collections and pictures. The PAVILLON NORD contains coins and medals, the PAVILLON SUD a small collection of weapons and flags. EXCURSIONS. Bearing a little to the left from the Porte de Constantine (see above), we cross the large Place des Chameaux (Pl. D, 4), where an interesting _Cattle Market_ is held on Thursday mornings, and then follow the S. slope of Mont Skikda (p. 304), past the _Cemetery_, to (½ hr.) the =Château Landon= or _Domaine des Lions_, which has a beautiful garden. (Visitors require the permission of M. Gallard, the superintendent, Rue Galbois.) The St. Charles (and Constantine) road leads through the _Faubourg de l’Espérance_ in the fertile dale of the _Oued Zeramna_, past the (2½ M.) _Ecole Pratique d’Agriculture_, to the prettily situated village of (3¾ M.) _St. Antoine_ (33 ft.; diligence 25 c.). From St. Antoine we may visit, viâ the Route de Praxbourg, the _Oued Amida_, or upper valley of the Zeramna, a hill-region where cork-tree plantations abound, and a favourite resort of wild-boar and jackal hunters. Or we may follow the Chemin de la Carrière Romaine across the _Col Chambœuf_, on _Jebel Soubouyou_ (1050 ft.), to _Damrémont_ (p. 303). To the W. of the Porte de Constantine a picturesque road leads viâ _Montplaisant_ to the dale of _Beni Melek_, famed for its wine. We may return thence viâ the Porte des Citernes (Pl. A, 3) and Rue d’Orléans, or descend the Chemin du Beni-Melek to the Route de Stora. For a visit to =Stora= we may take the *_Route de la Corniche_, the beautiful new shore-road which starts from the Place de Marqué (Pl. B, C, 2) and at places is tunnelled through the living rock (ca. 2 M.; diligence). Or we may follow the picturesque _Route de Stora_ (2½ M.), the old upper road, beginning at the Stora Gate (p. 305). _Stora_, a fishing-village with sea-baths, is now inhabited chiefly by Italians. The fine view hence extends to Jebel Filfila and the Cap de Fer (p. 131). On the steep shore are fragments of an _Aqueduct_, partly underground, and several _Cisterns_ (restored), relics of the Roman Asthoret (p. 304). A vault now used as a laundry probably belonged to a _Nymphaeum_ or fountain. 48. From Constantine to Bona viâ Duvivier. 135½ M. RAILWAY, in 7–8¾ hrs. (24 fr. 65, 17 fr. 60, 13 fr. 20 c.). The morning train has a dining-car between Le Khroub and Duvivier. Buffets at Le Khroub and Duvivier. The only intermediate station of interest is Hammam-Meskoutine. From Constantine to (10 M.) _Le Khroub_, see pp. 274, 273. Our line diverges to the E. from those to Algiers and Biskra (RR. 43, 44) and ascends between low hills in the bleak valley of the _Oued Berda_, a tributary of the Oued Bou Merzoug (p. 272). 18 M. _Bou-Nouara_ (2330 ft.) has an ancient _Berber Necropolis_, whose dolmens and rock-tombs, 1¼ M. to the N. of the railway, extend along the spurs of _Jebel Mazela_ (3412 ft.). 25½ M. _Aïn-Abid_ (2822 ft.), the highest point on the line, lies on the watershed between the Oued Berda and the _Oued Zenati_, one of the feeders of the Seybouse (p. 308). 35 M. _Aïn-Regada_ (2487 ft.), also in a dreary steppe. 42 M. =Oued-Zenati= (2268 ft.; Hôt. de France), pleasantly situated on a partially wooded hill-side, the only large village before Guelma, has a busy market (Sun., Mon., Thurs.). The ROAD TO GUELMA (28 M.; diligence in 4¼ hrs.) leads to the N.E. through a pretty hill-country direct to _Medjez-Amar_ (p. 308), just before (14¼ M.) _Aïn-Amara_, and below _Thibilis_ (p. 307). Road and railway make a long bend to the W. round the hill-region of _Bou Hamdan_. Beyond (52 M.) _Bordj Sabath_ (1759 ft.), where, below the influx of the _Oued Sabath_, the Zenati is called _Oued Bou Hamdan_, the scenery changes. The valley, whose slopes are richly overgrown with olive-trees and underwood, contracts. In the stony river-bed grow many wild oleanders. 59 M. _Taya_ (1312 ft.), a pleasant oasis with fruit-trees and eucalypti, lies near the stalactite grottoes, not easy of access, in the limestone hill of _Jebel Taya_ (3963 ft.). The valley again contracts in the two _Gorges de Taya_. 68 M. =Hammam-Meskoutine= (1312 ft.; *Hôtel des Bains; R. 5–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 14, motor-omn. 1¼–1½ fr., open 15th Nov. to June), the Roman _Aquae Thibilitanae_, is now one of the most noted baths in Algeria. The ‘indifferent’ springs are strongly impregnated with chloride of sodium and sulphate of lime; one, containing iron, has a temperature of 187° Fahr., the others 226°. The latter form the *_Grande Cascade_, 5 min. from the station, on the way to the hotel, falling over a terrace of calc-sinter 42 ft. high, a miniature edition of the terraces of Yellowstone Park, or of Hierapolis (in Asia Minor). Below the terrace rise date-palms and splendid olive-trees, while the bed of the _Oued Chedakra_ with its profusion of oleanders further enhances the peculiar charm of the scene. The curious limestone cones, a few paces to the E., relics of old eruptions, have given rise to the Arabian legend of the petrified wedding party, from which the place derives its name (‘Baths of the Petrified’). Smaller springs rise beyond these cones and also 3 min. to the E., near the railway. Enclosed by the houses of the bath-hotel is a charming _Garden Court_, with orange and lemon trees. Most curious among the numerous Roman antiquities (stelæ, funerary inscriptions, etc.) placed here is the house-altar of the Antistii, from Thibilis (see below), on the S. terrace, shaded by a venerable terebinth. The ruined _Piscinae_ are the only relics of Roman buildings. EXCURSIONS. To the S.W. lies the (¾ hr.) _Lac Souterrain_, a pond 88 ft. deep, in a cavern formed in 1878 by a landslip. In sunshine (best 2–4 p.m.) the water assumes a beautiful blue colour.—To the S., a little aside from the lake just mentioned, we may ride on mule-back, or walk, viâ _Aïn-St. Charles_ and _Aïn-Amara_ (see above) to (2 hrs.) _Announa_, the Roman =Thibilis=, lying on a narrow hill (ca. 2300 ft.), high above the _Announa Valley_, where excavations have been made since 1905. We note specially the _East Gate_, the _Entrance Arch_ of the forum, vestiges of the _Market Basilica_, the house of _Magister Pagus_, and the sadly ruined _South Gate_, the only two-arched Roman gateway in Algeria. Outside the late-Byzantine town-walls, on the S.W. side of the little town, is the _Byzantine Basilica_ built of fragments of Roman buildings; in the semicircular choir-recess are five rows of seats for the clergy, with the bishop’s place in the centre.—A new road (carr. 12 fr.) leads to the N.W. to (9½ M.) the ancient Berber _Necropolis of Roknia_, on the W. slope of _Jebel Debar_ (3442 ft.), with many dolmens (p. 324) and rock-tombs, sadly damaged of late. The train next makes a wide bend to the S., round the wooded hills of the _Beni Addi_, past the influx of the _Oued Cherf_ into the Bou Hamdan, which now takes the name of _Seybouse_. 72 M. _Medjez-Amar_ (958 ft.), amid fine hill scenery. 80 M. =Guelma= (916 ft.; Hôt. d’Orient, Rue Sadi-Carnot, tolerable; Hôt. de l’Univers; pop. 10,200), a pleasant little town, in a broad olive-clad basin, was founded on the site of _Calama_, in 1836, when the _Byzantine Town Walls_ of the time of Solomon (p. 315) were partly used to build the French camp. The striking ruins of the Roman _Thermae_ (2nd cent. A. D.), with walls still about 33 ft. high, and the _Jardin Public_, with Roman antiquities, are worth seeing. There is a small collection of antiquities also at the _Mairie_. The restoration of the _Roman Theatre_ was begun in 1907 but never finished. Guelma holds the greatest _Cattle Market_ in E. Algeria (Mondays; chief of all, last Sunday in April). The poor-looking oxen, mostly light-grey, of the E. districts as far as the Tunisian frontier, are known as Guelma cattle. An interesting excursion may be made from Guelma by carriage (12 fr. whole day) to _Thibilis_ (p. 307). As the train proceeds, we have a fine view, to the right, of _Jebel Mahouna_ (4630 ft.), often snow-clad in winter. 82½ M. _Millésimo_ (755 ft.); 86 M. _Petit_, amidst pleasant wooded hills. 93 M. _Nador_ (430 ft.), with the poor huts of the natives half-hidden by cactus-hedges, is the station for the zinc-mines on _Jebel Nador_ (2418 ft.), owned by the Vieille-Montagne Company.—We next traverse the _Gorges du Nador_, clad with underwood. 101 M. =Duvivier= (312 ft.; Rail. Restaur.; Hôt. Lagarde, poor; pop. 2000), below the mouth of the _Oued Melah_ (p. 312), junction for Bona, Souk-Ahras (Tunis, Tebessa; RR. 49–51). Our line now runs to the N. through the Seybouse valley. 103½ M. _Boudaroua_, 105½ M. _Oued-Frarah_, 110 M. _St. Joseph_, all on the W. border of the wooded hills of the _Beni Salah_. On the right, just before (117 M.) _Barral_, is the new reservoir of the _Canal d’Irrigation de la Seybouse_. The chief branch of the conduit runs on the left bank through the plain of Bona. A minor branch, along with the highroad, crosses to the right bank, below the picturesque village, by the iron _Pont de Barral_. We now enter the _Plaine de Bône_, the broad, largely marshy flats of the Seybouse, a picture of luxuriant fertility in spring, with their extensive vineyards, flower-carpeted meadows, tall aloes, and picturesque clumps of trees. 120½ M. _Mondovi_ (72 ft.; Hôt. Honorati), the agricultural centre of the district, with many thriving farms. [Illustration: BÔNE] 124 M. _St. Paul_, junction of a branch-line to (7 M.) _Randon_. To the left appears the _Massif du Beleliéta_ (876 ft.), in front of Jebel Edough (see below); then, between (127 M.) _Duzerville_ and (130½ M.) _Allélik_, is seen the low _Massif du Bou Hamra_ (499 ft.), with its very ancient iron-mines, now worked by the Mokta el-Hadid Company (p. 303). Skirting the fringes of the hills last named the train now runs close to the Seybouse, and beyond the castle-hill of _Hippo Regius_ (p. 311), on the left, crosses the _Oued Boudjimah_. 135½ M. =Bona.=—STATIONS. 1. _Gare de la Comp. Bône-Guelma_ (Pl. A, 4), the chief station, for Constantine and for Souk-Ahras and Tunis (RR. 49, 51).—2. _Gare de la Comp. du Mokta el-Hadid_ (Pl. A, B, 4), for the St. Charles line (p. 303).—3. _Gare de la Calle_ (Pl. B, 4), for the light railway to La Calle (p. 131). ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. RR. 20, 22). The steamers of the Gén. Transatlantique (agent, De Pleurre), of the Transports Maritimes (agent, Teddé), and of the Navigation Mixte (agent, Fadda) are all berthed at the Quai Nord (Pl. B, C, 3), in the Petite Darse. Cabs, see below. HOTELS (comp. p. 174). _Hôtel d’Orient_ (Pl. a; B, 2), Cours Jérôme*-Bertagna, with frequented restaurant, well spoken of; _Hôt. Cramet_ (Pl. b; B, 3), Rue Prosper-Dubourg; _Hôt. Continental_ (Pl. c; B, 2), Passage des Thermopyles (entrance next the Hôt. d’Orient), with good restaurant, déj. 2, D. 2½ fr., plain; _Hôt. Moderne_, Rue des Volontaires, new. CAFÉS. _Café St. Martin_, Cours Jérôme-Bertagna; _Brasserie du Petit Gambrinus_, Rue du Quatre Septembre. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. B, 3), Place de la Poste. BANKS. _Banque de l’Algérie_, _Comp. Algérienne_, _Crédit Lyonnais_, and _Crédit Foncier d’Algérie et Tunisie_, all in the Cours Jérôme-Bertagna.—BOOKSELLERS. _Faure_ (_Legendre_), cor. of Rue St. Augustin and Rue du Quatre Septembre; _Borel & Langlade_, Cours Jérôme-Bertagna. BATHS. _Euvremer_, Rue Damrémont; _Bains Maures_ (comp. p. 175), Rue Bélisaire.—SEA BATHS. _Grenouillère_ (p. 310), in the Avant-Port; _Plage Chapuis_ and others at St. Cloud-les-Plages (p. 311).—THEATRE (Pl. 4; B, 2), Cours Jérôme-Bertagna.—RACES, 24th April. CABS (stand, Cours Jérôme-Bertagna). Drive 1 (and back 1½) fr.; first hr. 2, each addit. hr. 1½ fr; half-day 8, whole day 15 fr.—OMNIBUS from the Cours Jérôme-Bertagna to the Plage Chapuis, etc. CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _H. A. Scratchley_, Rue du Rempart 3.—U.S. Consular Agency, Rue Thiers. ONE DAY. Forenoon, _Harbour_, _Cours Jérôme-Bertagna_, _Hippo Regius_ (pp. 310, 311); afternoon, _Cap de Garde_ or _Bugeaud_ (p. 311). _Bona_, French _Bône_, Arabic _Enneba_ (pop. 42,900, incl. 28,300 Europeans, mostly French, 11,200 Mohammedans, and 1700 Jews), on the W. side of the _Gulf of Bona_ (p. 128), a fortified town, is the chief seaport of Algeria after Oran and Algiers and the most important outlet for the produce of the département of Constantine, such as phosphates (p. 315), iron (comp. pp. 310, 314), zinc, cork, cattle, and cereals. Besides its fine harbour, the town offers no sights; but it deserves a visit especially in winter, for the sake of its pretty situation at the foot of _Jebel Edough_ (3307 ft.; p. 169), not far from the picturesque _Cap de Garde_. Bona lies on the small _Anse du Cassarin_, about 1¼ M. to the N.E. of _Hippo_, which was one of the chief Phœnician colonies on the coast of N. Africa. Under Masinissa (p. 321) Hippo was the capital of Numidia, and under the Roman empire, when it was called _Hippo Regius_, it was the richest port on the N. coast next to Carthage and rivalled Cæsarea (p. 244). Here in 393 met a council of over three hundred bishops, who for the first time recognized the present canon of the New Testament. On that occasion St. Augustine (born in 354 at Thagaste, p. 313), attended as a presbyter and co-bishop. Chief among the four ‘Latin fathers’ and a keen opponent of the Donatists (p. 322), St. Augustine, after his conversion at Milan by St. Ambrose (387), settled at Hippo, where he was bishop from 395 to 430, and died there during the siege of the town by the Vandals. After its destruction by Genseric and the downfall of the Vandals, whose king Gelimer (p. 322) sought his last asylum on Mt. Edough, Hippo arose from its ruins once more under the Byzantines, but it succumbed to the assaults of the Arabs in 697 and was thenceforth entirely abandoned. The present town of _Bona_, founded later by the Arabs on the slope of the Kasba hill, was seized by the Genoese in the 15th cent. for the sake of its valuable coral-fishery. After the conquest of Tunis (p. 332), it was occupied for a short time by the Spaniards in 1535, and afterwards temporarily by the Compagnie d’Afrique from Marseilles. In 1837, soon after the entry of the French (1832), the old Kasba, built under Charles V., was blown up, and since then the native quarter has been modernized in French fashion. The *=Harbour=, which has been so improved of late years as to rival that of Algiers, consists of three basins. The _Petite Darse_ (Pl. B, C, 3), 27 acres in area, the old inner harbour, lies near the railway-stations and the mouth of the _Seybouse_; the _Grande Darse_ (Pl. C, D, 3, 2; formerly the outer harbour), 170 acres in area, is a new basin between the _Môle Cigogne_ (Pl. C, 3) and the small creek of _Grenouillère_ (sea-baths); the _Avant-Port_ is a new outer basin of nearly 100 acres adjoining the _Pointe du Lion_. The outer entrance to the harbour, 270 yds. wide, between the _Jetée du Lion_, 1200 yds. long, and the _Jetée Sud_ (Pl. C, D, 4, 3), 1800 yds. long, is difficult of access during N. or N.E. gales. The inner entrances, through the _Jetée Babayaud_ and at the _Môle Cigogne_ (see above), are only 77 yds. wide. The Quai Nord (Pl. B, C, 3) in the Petite Darse is for the large French passenger-steamers, the Quai Ouest (Pl. B, 3) for phosphate, and the Quai Sud (Pl. B, C, 4) for the iron-ore from the mine near Aïn-Daliah (p. 303). Adjoining the last quay and bordering the new reclaimed lands (82 acres) is the new _Quai aux Phosphates_ (Pl. C, D, 3, 4), to be used for the phosphate depots and for the Ouenza iron ores (comp. p. 314). The broad COURS JÉRÔME-BERTAGNA (Pl. B, 2, 3; formerly _Cours National_), the main street of the town, with the pretty grounds of the ‘Square’, skirts the W. side of the native quarter. To the W., in the European quarter, are the covered _Marché_ (Pl. B, 2), the interesting _Fondouk_ (Pl. 1, A 2; native market), and, in the Boul. des Jujubiers, the _Marché aux Grains_ (Pl. A, 3). Outside the W. gates, Porte des Karézas (Pl. A, 3) and Porte Randon (Pl. A, 1), are the _Marché aux Bestiaux_ (Pl. A, 2; Thurs.) and the grounds of the SQUARE RANDON (Pl. A, 2). The NATIVE QUARTER, where also the Jews reside, is intersected by the Rue St. Augustin (Pl. B, C, 2). From the Boul. Victor-Hugo (Pl. B, C, 2), on the N. side of this quarter, we may mount in 10 min. to the =Colline de la Kasba=, or _Colline des Santons_ (358 ft.), crowned by the _Kasba_ (Pl. C, D, 1; no admittance). The pine-clad slope is skirted by the pretty _Boul. des Caroubiers_ (Pl. C, D, 2, 1). A beautiful walk may be taken from the Porte des Caroubiers (Pl. D, 1) on the busy *=Chemin de la Corniche=, round the E. side of the _Batterie du Lion_, always skirting the shore and passing many villas with luxuriant gardens. It leads to the N.W. to the suburb of (2½ M.) _St Cloud-les-Plages_, on the _Baie des Caroubiers_, with its sea-baths (p. 309). In clear weather a pleasant drive may be taken past the little _Baie des Corailleurs_ and the old _Fort Génois_ to (7 M.) the _Cap de Garde_. At the _Semaphore_ (519 ft.), above the lighthouse, we enjoy a delightful view of the bay. From the _Faubourg Ste. Anne_ (Pl. A, 1) a hill-road with fine views, but almost shadeless as far as the (5 M.) _Col des Chacals_ (1578 ft.), ascends in windings to (9 M.) =Bugeaud= (2809 ft.; Hôt. Fuster, Hôt. Kittler, Hôt. Cronstadt, etc.), a favourite summer resort, beautifully situated among woods of cork-oaks. In clear weather the *Panorama from (1½ hr.) _Kef Seba_ (3307 ft.), the summit of Mt. Edough, embraces the whole coast from the bay of Stora (p. 128) to the Kroumirie (p. 326). The dusty Route de Constantine (Pl. A, 4) leads through the S. town-gate to a (12 min.) _Bridge_ the foundations of which are Roman, spanning the _Oued Boudjimah_ (p. 309). Between this brook and the _Seybouse_, whose mouth once lay farther to the S.E. and was used as a harbour, extended the site of =Hippo Regius= (p. 309). The road straight on, beyond the bridge, leads to the (ca. 5 min.) _Fortin_, which together with the castle-hill (see below) formed the nucleus of the Roman town. Here once lay the Roman villa quarter. Excavations in the former _Jardin Chevillot_ (adm. 50 c.), now belonging to the town, have brought to light several Roman columns and mosaics (Apollo and the Muses, Triumph of Amphitrite, etc.), the foundations of a small early-Christian basilica, and notably a fragment of wall, about 22 yds. long, composed of enormous blocks of granite, 10–13 ft. long, 39 in. thick, and 27 in. high. This last is probably the oldest and most interesting specimen of Phœnician building in Barbary. In the adjoining property of _Mme. Dufour_ part of the foundations of a Roman villa and superb mosaics have been laid bare. Among the latter are a very lifelike representation of a hunt, fishing-scenes, houses of a town, etc. (admission kindly granted). Of the _Ancient Theatre_ a few steps only now exist. To the right, just beyond the Boudjimah bridge (see above), diverges the Chemin de Beleliéta, whence after 9 min. a fine road leads to the right to the old CASTLE HILL (181 ft.). On its slope lie the _Roman Cisterns_ of Hippo, resembling in plan those of Bordj el-Djedid (p. 350), but modernized in 1893 for the waterworks of Bona (small fee for admittance). As Lalla Bouna, a famous saint, is supposed to have been buried here, the spot attracts Mohammedan pilgrims on Fridays, when they may be seen picturesquely grouped round the bronze _Statue of St. Augustine_ (1843). The castle-hill is crowned with the handsome _Basilica of St. Augustine_, founded by Card. Lavigerie (p. 346), and built by Abbé Pougnet in 1885–1900 in a semi-Oriental style, on the model of the cathedral of Carthage (p. 347). The INTERIOR is unfinished. Over the high-altar is preserved a highly-revered relic of St. Augustine, whose bones were carried in 496, during the Vandal period, by fugitive Catholic bishops to Sardinia, whence they were removed to Pavia by the Longobard king Liutprand in 722. In front of the church we have a fine view of the coast, with its dunes, as far as Cape Rosa (p. 131). From Bona to _St. Charles_ (_Constantine_), see p. 303; to _Souk-Ahras_, see R. 49; to _Tunis_, see R. 51. 49. From Constantine or Bona viâ Duvivier to Souk-Ahras (_Tebessa_, _Tunis_). FROM CONSTANTINE TO SOUK-AHRAS, 134 M., railway in 7–9¼ hrs. (24 fr. 30, 17 fr. 35 c., 13 fr.). Change at Duvivier. Railway Restaurants at Le Khroub, Duvivier, and Souk-Ahras. FROM BONA TO SOUK-AHRAS, 66½ M., railway in 3¼–5¼ hrs. (11 fr. 95, 8 fr. 55, 6 fr. 40 c.). _Constantine_, and thence to (101 M.) _Duvivier_, see p. 297 and R. 48.—From _Bona_ to (34½ M.) _Duvivier_, see pp. 309, 308. We cross the _Seybouse_ and follow the narrow dale of the _Oued Melah_ to the S.E., with its fine growth of underwood. 107½ (or 40½) M. _Medjez-Sfa_ (476 ft.); the village (758 ft.) lies to the right, on the Souk-Ahras road. We then mount to (113 or 46 M.) _Aïn-Tahamimine_ (about 1100 ft.), with its eucalyptus groves. The finest part of the line lies between this point and Laverdure. We cross the ravine of the _Oued Cherf_ by a viaduct. 116 (or 49) M. _Aïn-Affra_ (1739 ft.). We ascend the hill-side to the N.E., partly through plantations of young cork-trees and underwood, and then on the crest of the hill turn sharply back to the S.W. Below lies the line just traversed. At several points we obtain a splendid view of the distant hills of the _Beni Salah_ (p. 308). Among the cork-trees appear the first evergreen oaks. 124 (or 57) M. _Laverdure_ (2369 ft.). The village (2526 ft.; Hôt. Arena; Hôt. Raschiero), 1 M. to the W., on the Souk-Ahras road, with its woods and beautiful views, attracts summer visitors. To the left appears _Jebel Mahabouba_ (4144 ft.), often snow-clad in winter. Passing through woods of cork and evergreen oak, fringes of the _Forêt de Fedj el-Makta_, we come to the _Col de Fedj el-Makta_ (tunnel), the watershed between the Seybouse and the Medjerda (p. 325). 127 (or 60) M. _Aïn-Sennour_ (2552 ft.). The forest-zone is succeeded by a region of meadows, fields, and vineyards. To the left we sight the bare mountains to the N. of Souk-Ahras. 134 (or 66½) M. =Souk-Ahras.=—_Railway Restaurant._—HOTELS. _Hôtel d’Orient_, in the market-place, with good restaurant, R., déj., D., 2½ fr. each, pens. 7½ omn. 1 fr., quite good; _Hôt. de l’Univers_, similar charges; _Hôt. de France_.—_Café de Marseille_, in the market-place. _Souk-Ahras_ (2297 ft.; pop. 9000) lies very prettily in a lofty, undulating plain enclosed by distant hills. It is a rapidly rising place, with quite a European aspect, and is one of the pleasantest provincial towns in Algeria. It dates only from 1852, when it was founded as a convenient centre for roads radiating to Constantine, Bona, and La Calle, and as a mart for the phosphates of Tebessa (p. 315). It stands on the site of _Thagaste_, the birthplace of St. Augustine (p. 310), who mentions it with affection in his Confessions. At the foot of the old castle-hill, an excellent point of view, are placed a few antiquities from Khamissa (see below). Cattle-breeding and vine-culture are the chief industries in the environs. The EXCURSION TO KHAMISSA, about 23 M. from Souk-Ahras, is best made by motor-car as far as Ksar Tifech and thence on mule-back. We follow the Sedrata highroad to the S.W., soon crossing the _Medjerda_ (p. 325). About halfway we enter the _Plaine de Tifech_, watered by the Oued Tifech and once fertile and populous. We then reach the _Ksar Tifech_ (3150 ft.), on the slope of _Jebel Tifech_ (3609 ft.), with the ruins of a Byzantine fortress, the most considerable relic of the Numidian _Tipasa_. Thence we ride to the N.W., in the direction of the ancient Roman road, to *=Khamissa= or _Khemissa_ (3084 ft.; no inn), the interesting site of the Roman _Thubursicum Numidarum_, one of the oldest and most important towns in Inner Numidia. It lies on a hill high above the valley of the Medjerda, which rises a little to the N.W. on the _Râs el-Alia_ (4321 ft.). Among the ruins may be noted the _S.E. Gate_, a triumphal arch with a single passage, on the Tipasa road; near it, the underground _Columbarium_ (hypogæum); the _Thermae_; and also, in the Platea Vetus, the chief square in the E. quarter of the town, an unfinished _Roman Temple_ besides other buildings. On the crest of the hill we come upon the foundations of a _Byzantine Basilica_ and a small _Byzantine Fortress_ (‘Ksar el-Kebîr’). On the N. hill-side is the _Roman Theatre_, with its fairly preserved stage-building (comp. p. 293). The _Forum_, on the W. margin of the hill, and a _Triumphal Arch_ with three passages were afterwards incorporated with a second _Byzantine Fortress_. All around are extensive _Burial Grounds_, some of them with rock-tombs. From Souk-Ahras to _Tebessa_, see R. 50; to _Tunis_, see R. 51. 50. From Souk-Ahras to Tebessa. 79½ M. NARROW GAUGE RAILWAY, in 5½–6½ hrs. (14 fr. 35, 10 fr. 25, 7 fr. 70 c.; 1st cl. return 20 fr. 20 c.). Railway Restaurant at Clairefontaine only. Morsott is preferable to Tebessa for night-quarters. _Souk-Ahras_, see above. We cross the Tunis line (R. 51) by a viaduct, and descend to the S. into the valley of the _Medjerda_ (p. 325), latterly through underwood and Aleppo pines. 5 M. _Les Tuileries_. We next ascend the narrow and picturesque side-valley of the _Oued Chouk_, through pine and cork-oak woods. Beyond (9 M.) _Oued-Chouk_ (1975 ft.) we skirt the upper course of the stream, now called _Oued el-Hammam_, in a barren hill-country, and at places through limestone gorges, bordered with Aleppo pines. 17½ M. _Dréa_ (2634 ft.), an alfa (esparto grass) station. From Dréa we may visit the native village of _Mdaourouch_ (3058 ft.), 3 M. to the S.E., on the N.W. slope of _Jebel Bou Sessou_ (3566 ft.). This was the ancient =Madaura= or _Madauros_, the birthplace (about 125 A. D.) of the Roman author _L. Apuleius_. It was once the seat of a famous school of oratory, at which St. Augustine (p. 310) was educated. On its site, where there are relics of a Roman _Mausoleum_ and the foundations of an early-Christian _Basilica_, rises the conspicuous _Byzantine Castle_, dating from the time of Solomon (p. 315), a building curiously irregular in plan, partly enclosed by later (Berber?) fortifications. Large _Thermae_ also have been recently excavated. Beyond Dréa we traverse fields and poor pastures to the S.W. 22½ M. _Mdaourouch_ (2809 ft.; no inn), the highest point on the line, the watershed between the Medjerda and the Mellègue (see below). In the vicinity is the village of _Montesquieu_. A field-road leads to the E. from the station to (4½ M.) the village of _Mdaourouch_ (see above). _Khamissa_ (p. 313) may be visited from Montesquieu (see above) or Mdaourouch if we are fortunate enough to find mules there. We follow the Sedrata highroad to the W. to (9 M.) the caravanserai (Bordj; 2756 ft.) in the Plaine de Tifech (p. 313), whence we turn to the N. to (13 M.) _Ksar Tifech_ (p. 313) and thence go on to (16 M.) _Khamissa_. Beyond Mdaourouch there are long stretches of bleak steppe-like country. The train descends to (30 M.) _Oued-Damous_ (1982 ft.), in the valley of that name. It then skirts the _Oued Kebarit_ and rounds the E. slope of _Jebel Kréréga_ (3251 ft.), a tableland with scanty woods of pine and arbor vitæ. Far away to the left rises _Jebel Ouenza_ (4229 ft.), with the largest iron-mines in Algeria, owned by the ‘Société d’Etudes de l’Ouenza’. (Mineral-line to Bona or to Nebeur projected; comp. p. 325.) We now ascend the valley of the _Oued Mellègue_. To the right appear the bare _Kef Bou Djabeur_ (2504 ft.) and _Kef Raghma_ (2700 ft.), similar in type to the hills fringing the Sahara. 38 M. =Clairefontaine= (2146 ft.; Buffet, D. 3 fr., very fair), an important alfa station, with artesian wells. Sunday market. Passing between _Jebel Mestoula_ (3488 ft.) on the right and _Jebel el-Dzeroua_ (3432 ft.) on the left, we enter, to the S.E., the valley of the _Oued Chabrou_. To the S., above the steppe, which is overgrown with alfa and enlivened by browsing camels, rise the ranges of _Jebel Metloug_ (4111 ft.) and _Jebel Mzouzia_ (4514 ft.). 60 M. =Morsott= (2559 ft.; Hôt. de Lyon or Sivignon, good cuisine), below _Jebel Hout es-Srir_ (3445 ft.), a thriving European settlement, with its Monday market and alfa trade, is the starting-point of the mineral-line to (9½ M.) _Jebel Bou Kadra_ (4734 ft.) and the iron-mines of the Mokta el-Hadid Company (p. 303). Here, partly seen from the train, are relics of the Roman _Vasampus_: a _Gateway_ of solid masonry, perhaps that of a temple-court; _Thermae_, with unusually small chambers; and two _Mausolea_. There are also remains of the foundations of an early-Christian _Basilica_, curiously planned, 40½ by 16¾ yds. (three portals to the nave, apse with four side-recesses, baptistery behind the choir-recess). 69½ M. _Youks les Bains-Boulhaf le Dyr_, station for the baths of _Youks-les-Bains_ (p. 318), 7 M. to the S.W., and junction of the mineral-line to the phosphate-beds of _Jebel Dyr_ (4977 ft.). On the right rises the ‘_Chapeau de Gendarme_’ (4393 ft.; Arabic _Jebel bel-Khifeh_), whose characteristic form we do not see until near Tebessa. A line of rails to the left leads to the phosphate-deposits of _Aïn-Kissa_. In the foreground appear the hills of Tebessa, to the S. _Jebel Tenoukla_ and _Jebel Osmor_ (p. 318), and S.W. the _Jebel Doukkan_ range (5528 ft.). Tents of the nomads are often seen on the steppe. We cross the _Oued el-Kébir_, as the Oued Chabrou is called here. 79½ M. =Tebessa.=—The STATION lies to the W. of the town, outside the Porte de Constantine, 8 min. from the Place d’Armes. Omn. twice daily. HÔTELS. _Hôtel d’Orient & de la Métropole_, Rue Caracalla, 2 min. from the Arch of Caracalla, R. 3–3½, B. ¾, déj. 2, D. 3, pens. 8–9½, omn. 1 fr.; _Hôt. du Cours_, Place d’Armes, unpretending, but very fair. A hasty visit to the sights, in the following order, takes 2–3 hrs.—For the description of Tebessa comp. also _Cagnat’s_ book mentioned at p. 289. _Tebessa_ (2717 ft.; pop. 5700, mostly Mohammedans), a poor town, now unimportant except as the centre of the E. Algerian phosphate trade, was the ancient _Theveste_, one of the most prosperous towns in Inner Numidia from the Punic period (about B.C. 250–200) onwards. It was the first headquarters of the Third Legion (p. 286); in 123 A. D. it was connected with Carthage by a Roman military road; and after its destruction by the Berbers it was re-founded in 535 by Solomon, the general of Justinian (p. 541). Its ruins of the late-Roman and Vandal periods are among the finest in Barbary, but as they lie off the beaten track they are almost forgotten. The town is still enclosed by the =Byzantine Walls= built by Solomon, forming a rectangle of 350 by 306 yds., with fourteen towers, two gates, and a sally-port on the S. side. The old upper gallery and the battlements were removed in 1852 when the walls were restored. The modern W. Gate, the Porte de Constantine, leads first to the pleasant PLACE D’ARMES, the centre of traffic. Two minutes’ walk to the E. of this is the so-called _Porte de Solomon_, the most interesting part of the fortifications, with a round-arched passage and two square towers 56 ft. high. Outside of it the natives hold market on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. The N. Gate, where the walls project a little on both sides, is formed by the *=Arch of Caracalla=, dating from 214 A. D., once in the middle of the far more populous Roman town, but now at the end of the main street coming from the Place d’Armes. This arch, resembling the Janus Quadrifrons at Rome, is the most imposing Roman monument of the kind in Algeria, rivalling those of Tripoli (p. 408) and Leptis Magna (p. 412). It forms a square of about 12 yds. each way, with four round-arched passages, 27 ft. high and 15 ft. wide. Each pillar is adorned on its two outer sides with two Corinthian pilasters and two projecting Corinthian columns, all on a common base. Of the sculptures on the keystones of the archways, under the lavishly decorated architrave, there are preserved, on the E. side, a medallion in high relief of Minerva and a Medusa, and on the W. side a Fortuna (goddess of the town) and an eagle holding a bundle of thunderbolts. On three sides, in the middle of the attica, which is 4 ft. high, there are Latin inscriptions referring to Caracalla and his parents, Septimius Severus and Julia Domna. On the N. side, when the arch was restored, there was added an inscription in honour of Solomon. On the S. side is still preserved an ædicula, one of the four destined for statues adjoining the central dome. On the inner side of two of the pillars are long inscriptions from the testament of C. Cornelius Egrilianus, the builder of the triumphal arch. The highroad now descends to the N. to the (7 min.) so-called **=Basilica=, the most remarkable early-Christian ruin in Algeria, still in some respects an enigma to archæologists. Built mainly of Roman materials, and itself used for centuries as a quarry, it still forms an immense quadrilateral of about 213 by 88–115 yds., systematically excavated for the first time in 1888–92. The oldest parts of the edifice, perhaps of the late 4th cent., are believed to be the basilica and the memorial chapel; the main street, the court, and the ‘stable’ seem to belong to a second building period, perhaps also prior to the Vandal era. The monastery, with its fortifications, and the additions to the memorial chapel date probably from the Vandal period; the small ‘emergency chapel’ is perhaps a later Byzantine addition. The custodian (fee ½–1 fr.) is to be found at the little house near the E. gate. The _E. Gate_, the old main entrance, once adorned externally, in the style of a Roman triumphal arch, with Corinthian pilasters and jutting columns, is in fair preservation. Thence ran the paved _Main Street_, 8 yds. wide, without wheel-ruts, past the Basilica on the right and the court and ‘stable’ on the left, to the _W. Gate_, the ancient subsidiary entrance. From the N. side of the main street, formerly flanked with three colonnades, a flight of fourteen steps, 9½ ft. high in all, ascends to the portico of the BASILICA, which was once preceded by eight columns. Three portals here opened into the Atrium, the square forecourt of the church, with remains of the _Cantharus_, or fountain of purification, in the centre. Near the entrance-wall are two side-rooms whence winding staircases ascended to the upper floor and the church galleries. The Church, built of solid masonry, consisted of nave and two aisles, 50 by 24 yds. in all; but now nothing remains save the external wall of the left aisle, two arcades of the nave, and the choir-recess. The formation of the arcades, with low pillars and Corinthian columns in front, is peculiar. The site of the choirscreen and of the base of the altar is still traceable. Of the galleries, supposed to have been added on the occasion of a restoration of the church, there still lie fragments of the columns and imposts all around. The mosaic pavement is covered with earth. From the front part of the right aisle twelve steps descend into an almost square outer building (25½ by 22 yds.), contemporaneous with the church. The middle of this is occupied by the Trichorum, a trefoil-shaped hall, with three rounded apses, probably a MEMORIAL CHAPEL, resembling the early-Christian cemetery-chapels, and dedicated to some martyr or bishop buried under the altar. The four corner-rooms served as _Tomb Chambers_. Among the later additions of the Vandal period are the _Square Chamber_ on the S. side of the memorial chapel, which also was used as a burial-place, with its small ante-room, and the _Baptistery_, accessible only from the atrium by three steps, containing remains of the old font. To the same period belong the other additions to the basilica. Extending round the church from the memorial chapel on the E. to the W. side of the atrium are twenty-seven square chambers, partly built of heathen tombstones, commonly supposed to have been the _Monks’ Cells_, though unusually large for that purpose. Between these and the castellated _Monastery Wall_, whose towers do not project externally in the usual Byzantine fashion, probably lay the _Monastery Garden_, which was used down to the Moorish period as a burial-ground. Lastly we note the small ‘_Emergency Chapel_’ on the N. side of the memorial chapel, a small church, probably hastily built subsequent to the irruption of the Berbers (p. 315), with nave and two aisles, portico, choirscreen, rounded apse, and a square sacristy added on the N. side. The QUADRANGLE, 60 by 46 yds., on the S. side of the main street, formerly called the forum, was once divided into four sections by two cross-ways bordered by marble balustrades. In spite of the unevenness of the ground these sections are supposed to have been basins (watering-places for cattle and horses?), the water being supplied from the square reservoir still existing at the S.E. corner of the quadrangle. From the cross-ways steps ascended to narrow terraces enclosing the quadrangle on three sides, that on the S. side being a porticus of twenty-two columns. More enigmatical still is the WEST BUILDING, 53 by 24 yds., a hall with three aisles borne by pillars. This was afterwards converted, by the insertion of two low partitions, into a central chamber of three aisles with eleven two-storied side-rooms on each side of the outer aisles. The curious stone boxes or troughs (mangers?) on the partitions, together with the holes in the walls, of a kind that recur in many Byzantine buildings (perhaps for the rings to which horses were attached), have led to the conjecture that the building was a stable. The small building behind the _Porticus_ of six columns on the N. side of the main street, opposite the so-called stables, contains similar stone boxes. The _Kubba Sidi Djaballah_, about 5 min. to the N. of the Basilica, near the Catholic cemetery, is a Roman mausoleum with a Moorish dome. On the way back to the town we call at the _Bureau des Ponts et Chaussées_, on the right, a little off the road, 2 min. before the Arch of Caracalla, to ask M. Coggia, the curator, for the key of the museum. The so-called *=Temple of Minerva=, the best-preserved Roman temple in Algeria, now used as a museum, dates from the 3rd cent. A.D. The only relic of the old temple-court is the gateway wall, adorned with Corinthian pilasters, now forming the façade of a zaouïa (Mohammedan school) in the main street, close to the Arch of Caracalla. The temple, a pseudo-peripteros of 19¾ by 10 yds., on a substructure 13 ft. high, is in a side-street, adjoining the N. town-wall. A new flight of twelve (once twenty) steps ascends to the portico, with four Corinthian columns in front. The structure of the temple shows many of the peculiarities of African provincial art. Instead of an architrave there is a frieze with bulls’ skulls and eagles grasping serpents; above it is an attica in similar style, overladen with reliefs but without a cornice. Instead of a pediment there was probably a flat terrace on the summit. The present roof and the whole front-wall of the cella are modern. The =Town Museum= contains antiquities from Tebessa, Morsott, etc. (catalogue for the use of visitors). In the court are relics of antique and early-Christian buildings, inscriptions, altars, Saturn-stelæ and tomb-stelæ, some of them with bowls on the pedestal for the repasts of the deceased. The cella contains bronzes, vessels and sculptures in clay, etc.; a sarcophagus with the Muses; two mosaics from the baths which were removed to make way for the cavalry barracks, one with Nereids and sea monsters, the other with a home-coming ship and numbered figures of a game (bull, ostrich, gazelle, boar, etc.; comp. p. 292). The =Catholic Church=, at the N.W. angle of the town-wall, is adorned in the interior with a few fragments from the Basilica. Thus, over the high-altar, are remains of an early-Christian sarcophagus with three curious figures in relief (Christian Roma?). ENVIRONS. The _Roman Aqueduct_, 547 yds. long, restored in turn by the Moors, the Turks, and the French, still conveys water from the spring of _Aïn el-Bled_.—About 1¾ M. from the Porte de Constantine (p. 315) are the extensive late-Roman ruins of _Tebessa Khalia_ (‘Old Tebessa’), the nature of which is still unexplained. Diligence daily to (11 M.) _Youks-les-Bains_ (2625 ft.), with ‘indifferent’ hot springs (95° Fahr.), 2 M. to the S.W. of the Meskiana and Aïn-Beïda road (p. 273). To avoid the long return-journey from Tebessa to Souk-Ahras, we may ride or drive to the N.W. viâ (26 M.) _Haidra_ (p. 362) to (40½ M.) _Thala_ (p. 362) or to (37½ M.) rail. stat. _Kalaâ-Djerda_ (p. 362). A mineral-line also runs thence to the Algerian frontier and the phosphate-beds on _Jebel Kouif_ (3871 ft.; leave to travel by it is usually granted by the manager). A road leads to the S.W., past _Jebel Osmor_ (5052 ft.), noted for its Punic rock-tombs, then across the _Tenoukla Pass_, between _Jebel Tenoukla_ (5118 ft.) on the right and _Jebel Bou Roumane_ (p. 320) on the left, and past _Bou-Chebka_ (caravanserai), to (47 M.) _Feriana_ (p. 371). Diligence viâ Feriana to _Gafsa_ (p. 383) in two days (fare 30 fr.). [Illustration: ALGERIA] VII. TUNISIA. Route Page Geographical and Historical Sketch. Preliminary Notes 319 51. From (Constantine, Bona) Souk-Ahras to Tunis 325 Thuburnica, 325.—Simitthu. From Souk el-Arba, through the Kroumirie, to Tabarca, 326.—From Pont-de-Trajan to Béja. From Béja to Tabarca. Chaouach, 328. 52. Tunis 329 a. The New Town, 333.—b. The Old Town (Djamâa ez-Zitouna, Souks, Dâr el-Bey, Kasba, Mosque of Sidi Mahrez), 334.—c. Environs (Jardin du Belvédère, the Manoubia Hill, the Bardo, etc.), 338. 53. Carthage 343 Jebel Khaoui, 351. 54. From Tunis to Bizerta 351 Ferryville. Barrage des Pêcheries, 352.—From Tunis to Bizerta by road (Utica, Porto-Farina), 353. 55. From Tunis to Dougga (Le Kef) 354 Henchir Maâtria (Numluli), 355.—From Medjez el-Bab to Le Kef, 357. 56. From Tunis to Le Kef and Kalaâ-Djerda 358 From Bir-Kassa to La Laverie, 358.—From Smindja to Zaghouan. From Tunis to Zaghouan by road. Jebel Zaghouan, 359.—Maktar, 360.—Kalaât es-Senam. Haidra. From Kalaâ-Djerda to Kasserine viâ Thala, 362. 57. From Tunis to Susa 363 Jebel Bou-Kornin, 363.—From Fondouk Djedid to Menzel Bou-Zelfa. From Soliman to Korbous. From Bir Bou-Rekba to Nabeul, 364.—Takrouna. Hergla, 365.—From Susa to Mehdia viâ Moknine, 369.—Chebba, 370. 58. From Susa to Kairwan 370 From Aïn-Ghrasesia to Metlaoui (Sbeïtla, Kasserine, Thelepte, Feriana), 370. 59. From Susa to Sfax 378 60. From Sfax to Metlaoui viâ Gafsa 383 From Gafsa to El-Guettar, 385.—Gorges du Seldja, 386. 61. From Metlaoui to the Djerid 386 The Djerid, 386.—Kebilli. El-Hamma, 388. 62. From (Sfax) Graïba to Djerba viâ Gabes and Médenine 388 The Monts des Ksour, 390.—Tatahouine, 391.—The Island of Djerba, 393. _Tunisia_, the eastmost part of the _Maghreb_ (p. 93), a territory of about 50,000 sq. M., has a population of ca. 1½–2 millions, the great majority being Mohammedans (Berbers, Arabs, Moors, Kuluglis, and negroes). Of the remainder about 60,000 are Jews (Arabic _Ihûdi_, pl. _Ihûd_), either natives or settlers (from Spain and the so-called Livornese), 105,680 Italians, 40,850 French, 12,200 Maltese (p. 397), and 4800 other Europeans. The coast, about 620 M. long, extends from _Cape Roux_ (p. 131) to _Râs Adjir_ (p. 406). The abrupt coast of the _Tell Atlas_ (p. 169), which stretches from the _Fedja Grandpré_ (3783 ft.) on the Algerian frontier to _Cape Blanc_ (p. 129), and comprises the wooded hill-country of the _Kroumirie_, the _Nefza_ and _Mogod Mts._, and several ranges of lower heights, is broken by the small coast-plain of _Tabarca_ alone. The dunes to the E. of Bizerta, rising to 1033 ft., the greatest range of sand-hills on the Mediterranean, separate the _Lake of Bizerta_ from the _Gulf of Tunis_ (p. xxx), into which fall the _Medjerda_ and the _Oued Miliane_, the two chief rivers of the country, forming a number of lagoons and tongues of land at their mouths. The Algerian _Sahara Atlas_ (p. 170) extends to the N.E. from _Jebel Bou Roumane_ (5250 ft.) and _Jebel Zebissa_ (4167 ft.) near Tebessa (p. 315) to _Cape Bon_ (p. 153), broken by stony plateaux (_Hammada_, _Kalaâ_, _Dyr_), and finally descends abruptly to the sea. Its most important peaks in Tunisia are _Jebel Chambi_ (5217 ft.), _Jebel Bireno_ (4655 ft.), _Jebel Rekaba_ (or _Râs Ali Bou-Mouzine_, 4987 ft.), _Jebel Serd_ (4511 ft.), and, beyond the deep depression of _Jebel Faroua_ (2362 ft.), _Jebel Zaghouan_ (4249 ft.), which last is the most striking landmark for mariners in all Tunisia. The S. slope of the Sahara Atlas is remarkable for its terraced formation due to the action of water. The whole country consists mainly of great basins with floors of clay or sand of recent origin, separated from each other by elliptically shaped hills of more solid rock, chiefly of chalk formation. The _Oued Hathob_ (pp. 362, 370) flows through no fewer than six basins of the kind. From the _Gulf of Hammamet_, on the S. margin of the peninsula of Cape Bon, to the _Lesser Syrtis_, now the _Gulf of Gabes_, extends an alluvial plain of marine formation. This steppe-like tract, with its large fresh-water lake (_Lac de Kelbia_, p. 370) and many salt-marshes (_Sebkha_, comp. p. 169), is thinly peopled by nomads only, except on the strip of coast, with its lagoons, flanking the _Sahel_. To the W. of the Gulf of Gabes lies the region, 250 M. long, of the _Shotts_ (_Chotts el-Fedjedj_, _Djerid_, and _Rharsa_), belonging to the great _Bassin du Melrir_ (p. 170); it forms the N. fringe of the desert, lying largely below the sea-level, and contains the finest palm-oases in Barbary. The transition from the shotts to the highlands of Tripoli is formed by _Jebel Tebaga_ (1608 ft.), and by the _Monts des Ksour_ (2460 ft.), famed ever since the time of Herodotus for their troglodytes or cave-dwellers, and bounded on the S.W. by the _Erg Oriental_ (p. 285). Tunisia, unlike its neighbour Algeria, which is shut in all round by high mountains, covered with snow in winter, opens due E. upon the Mediterranean and enjoys a mild winter climate, but in summer and autumn is directly exposed to the sirocco (Arabic _samûm_), the burning wind from inland Africa, which is hotter and drier here than in Algeria. The mean temperature of January is at Tunis 51° Fahr. (minimum 28½°), at Aïn-Draham 42½° (min. 9½°), at Le Kef 45° (min. 23°), at Kairwan and Tozeur 50° (min. 25°), at Djerba 54½° (min. 35½°). The mean temperature of August at Tunis is 81° (maximum 122°), at Kairwan 85° (max. 120°), at Djerba 81° (max. 115°), and at Tozeur reaches 91° (max. 120°). The greatest rainfall in N. Africa is in the region of the Kroumirie (65 inches per annum at Aïn-Draham); to the S. of the Medjerda it decreases to 20–24 inches (at Le Kef 21½ in.); it is still lower at Tunis (17¾ in.), on the E. coast (Susa 16½, Sfax 9¾ in.), and particularly in the district of the shotts (at Tozeur 5 in.). The rain falls in short, torrential showers; owing to the destruction of the forests and the paucity of reservoirs the water rushes down unhindered to the salt-lakes and the sea, inundating the plains on its way. A few hours after each shower the thirsty soil is as dry as before, but the devastation caused by erosion is aggravated. The fauna and flora are almost identical with those of Algeria (p. 171). The chief products of Tunisia are the tanner’s bark and cork of the Kroumirie, early vegetables from the environs of Tunis, cereals from the Medjerda valley and from the dales of the Sahara Atlas (here horse and cattle breeding also thrive), alfa or esparto grass (p. 171), olive-oil from the Sahel and from Sfax, and dates from the oases of the Sahara. Fish abound on the coast and the sponge fishery also is productive, while the coral-fishing has sunk into complete insignificance. The principal ores worked here are zinc, lead, iron, and copper. At Kalaât es-Senam, Kalaâ-Djerda, Metlaoui, Redeyef, and Aïn-Moularès there are immense deposits of phosphate, the yield of which has rapidly increased the traffic of _Tunis_ and _Sfax_, and is expected greatly to augment that of _Susa_ after the completion of its harbour. Tunisia owes its ancient culture, the earliest in Barbary, to its numerous Phœnician colonies, such as Utica, Kambe, Hadrumetum (Susa), Leptis Minor, and Carthage. The Carthaginians wisely introduced the irrigation system of Mesopotamia into N. Africa and promoted the corn and vine culture, but the agricultural prosperity of the country was confined chiefly to the littoral, inhabited by Libyan-Phœnicians, a mixed Berber and Phœnician race, and to the valley of the Medjerda. The contiguous region of _Numidia_ was first opened up to Punic culture by _Masinissa_ (B.C. 201–149), the most distinguished of the ancient Berber kings. The Roman republican period was unfavourable for the development of the new province of _Africa_. The chief events were the war with Jugurtha (111–106), the grandson of Masinissa, and the battles between Pompey, whose adherents were aided by Juba I., and Cæsar, which, after the battle of Thapsus (p. 369), led to the annexation of Numidia as the province of _Africa Nova_. The marvellous progress of the country during the first centuries of the Roman empire is evidenced by the colonization of the central Tunisian and S. Algerian steppe, a triumph of Roman enterprise. A great network of roads was constructed, chiefly from the reign of Hadrian onwards, to connect Carthage, the new capital, and other towns with Tebessa, Hippo Regius (p. 309), Tripolitania, and even the distant Mauretania Tingitana (p. 95), and numerous towns were founded in the interior of Tunisia and Numidia. But soon (about 238) a period of decline set in. Its causes were manifold. The Berbers were constantly rebelling, the Roman soldiers quarrelled, advancing Christianity and expiring paganism were struggling fiercely for the mastery, and the Christians, at length victorious, persecuted with the greatest ferocity. To add to these troubles, the terrible peasant-war of the so-called Circumcelliones broke out in the 4th cent., followed in the 4th and 5th cent. by the religious wars between Catholics and Donatists. Once more, however, the ancient glory of Tunisia revived, though for but a brief period (439–77), under _Genseric_, the Arian king of the Vandals. After he had completed his victorious expedition from S. Spain to Carthage (429–39) he proceeded, in alliance with the Donatist Berbers and with the still Punic speaking inhabitants of the coast, to attack the effete western empire. With his newly formed fleet he conquered Sicily (440), Rome (455), Tripolitania, Malta (456), and Sardinia (458), and in 476, after the overthrow of the W. Roman empire, was recognized by Zeno, the E. Roman emperor, as lord of the whole western Mediterranean. But the incompetence and intolerance of his successors soon shattered this new empire, and in 533 king _Gelimer_ was defeated by Justinian’s able general _Belisarius_. Even in Justinian’s time, however, the new rulers were incessantly attacked by the Berbers of the mountains, while the Byzantine governors (534–698) persecuted Donatists and Arians alike, with the result, according to Procopius’s estimate, that five millions of the inhabitants of N. Africa perished. The fate of the country was thus sealed and its conquest by Islam greatly facilitated. After eight successive campaigns (647–98) the first Arabian governors (representing the caliphs), _Abdallah ibn Saâd_, _Moauya ibn Hodeij_, _Sidi Okba ben-Nâfi_ (founder of Kairwan, p. 372), _Zoheir ibn Kaïs_, and _Hassan ibn en-Nôman_ (destroyer of Carthage, p. 346), drove the Byzantines out of ‘Ifrikia’ and overcame the desperate resistance of the Berber mountaineers, thus sweeping Christianity from African soil and destroying the last vestiges of Punic and Roman culture. Ere long, however, their ineradicable love of independence led the Berbers, who after the conquest of Andalusia (p. 50) had formed the sect of the _Kharijites_ and later that of the _Shiites_, to unite in opposing the orthodox Arabs and to found (about 740) several small states of their own, such as that of the _Ibadites_ in Tiaret (p. 208) and that of the _Sofrites_ in Sijilmassa (Tafilet, p. 96). In Tunisia the _Aglabides_ (800–909), a Berber dynasty, who were originally governors under Hârûn er-Rashid, declared themselves independent, and in 827 they proceeded to conquer Sicily. Under the _Fatimites_, who also were Berbers, the seat of government was transferred in 916 from Kairwan to Mehdia (p. 369), and in 973, after the conquest of Egypt, it was removed to Cairo (comp. p. 443). The revolt of the _Zirites_, a new dynasty of Tunisian governors, named after _Bologgîn ez-Ziri_, led in 1045 to the fateful irruption of the _Beni Hilal_ (_Hilalides_) and _Beni Soleïm_, two marauding tribes of nomadic Arabs. At the instigation of the Fatimites they overran Barbary like a swarm of locusts, defeated the allied Zirites and Hammadites (p. 270), destroyed Kairwan and many other towns, demolished most of the forests and the irrigation-works, and drove the Berbers back to their mountains. After a time the Zirites partly succeeded in subduing these hordes, but in 1148 the whole of the Sahel with its capital Mehdia was wrested from them by the Normans of Sicily (p. 148). In 1160 the Normans were expelled by _Abd el-Mûmen_ (p. 95), and Tunisia was incorporated with the great empire of the Almohades. At length, under the _Hafsides_ (1206–1573), Tunisia regained independence, with Tunis as the capital. Towards the end of this period troubles began anew. After interminable wars with the Merinides (p. 95) Tunis was captured by Kheireddin (p. 221) in 1534, and was attacked, though without permanent success, by the crusading Maltese knights (p. 398), by Emp. Charles V. (in 1535), by Juan de Vega (1551), and by Don John of Austria (1573). From 1574 to 1650 Tunisia was governed by Turkish officials (_pashas_, _deys_, _beys_), after which the dynasty of the _Husseinites_ was founded by _Hussein Ali ben-Turki_. From 1705 onwards Tunisia, often only a nominal dependency of Turkey, degenerated into a mere pirate-state, which down to 1830 took an active part in the marauding expeditions of its barbaresque Algerian neighbours. Since 1881 the French protectorate has paved the way for a new period of prosperity and opened up the greatly impoverished and thinly peopled country to European trade and culture. The present bey is _Sidi Mohammed en-Nasr_ (born in 1855). The minister for foreign affairs is the French resident-general, and the minister of war is the commandant of the French garrison. Finance, postal arrangements, public works, and education are all superintended by French officials, with whom are associated a Mohammedan prime minister and a secretary of state. Europeans and their dependents are under the jurisdiction of the French law-courts; the natives are dealt with by the courts of the Ouzara and the ‘Shaâra’. The bey is allowed a body-guard of 600 men of the infantry, cavalry, and artillery, uniformed like the Zouaves. Lovers of art will find Tunisia a most attractive country. As in Algeria and Morocco, so here also the megalithic monuments (dolmens, basinas, etc.), built of huge blocks of stone, are the chief memorials of the Libyan (or ancient Berber) culture. The Punic art of Tunisia, at first under Assyrian, Egyptian, and Greek influence, but exclusively Greek after the first campaigns in Sicily, has become better known of late, especially since the rich yield of the rock-tombs of Carthage. Apart from the tomb at Dougga (p. 355), as little of Punic architecture remains as in Algeria. On the other hand no other country can boast of such a profusion of Roman ruins (called by the Mohammedans Henshir) as Tunisia. The early Moorish art of Tunisia, as in the whole of the Maghreb, betrays the influence of Andalusian masters, but most of the buildings are no earlier than the Turkish period. Contrary to their Algerian methods the French have preserved the Oriental character of the country, so that the seaports of the E. coast, Kairwan, and the oasis villages still contain fine Moorish buildings. Travellers may explore any part of the country in safety and without escort, but they should not enter Mohammedan burial-grounds or shrines (comp. p. xxv). The only mosques and zaouïas open to Christians (but not to Jews) are those of Le Kef, Kairwan, Gafsa, and Tozeur. The means of communication are similar to those in Algeria (comp. p. 173). The network of RAILWAYS, mostly belonging to the company of the Chemins de Fer de Bône-Guelma (p. 173), extends to central Tunisia only. Between Susa and Sfax (until the opening of the new railway) and between Sfax or Graïba and Gabes the motor-omnibus or the diligence (p. 173) is at present the only conveyance. The shotts are visited by carriage from Metlaoui, or, if preferred, from Gabes. A visit to S.E. Tunisia (Monts des Ksour, Gightis, Djerba) is usually paid from Gabes, where introductions had better be obtained from the authorities of the Territoire Militaire. Susa, Sfax, Gabes, and Djerba are also steamboat-stations (comp. R. 64). In Tunisia mid-European time (1 hr. ahead of Greenwich time), which is observed also on the Italian steamers, has recently been introduced. First-class HOTELS are to be found in Tunis only. Those in country places are similar to the Algerian (p. 174), but still plainer and less up to date, apart from a few creditable exceptions. In the steppe and on the Sahara one must often have recourse to the fortified caravanserai or to the hospitality of the local authorities. The POST OFFICE of the regency of Tunis has its own stamps (letter-postage within Tunisia or to France 10, to Italy 20 c. etc.; post-cards 5 c.). A passport visé by the consul must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters. The COINAGE, since the introduction of the gold standard (1891), has been French, with Arabic and French inscriptions. The gold coins are of 10 and 20 francs, the silver of ½, 1, and 2 francs, the copper of 5 and 10 centimes. Italian, Swiss, Belgian, and Greek silver coins (except 5 fr. pieces) and copper coins are rejected. English or American money should be exchanged for banknotes of the Banque de France or the Banque de l’Algérie (p. 174), or for gold of the Latin monetary union. BOOKS (comp. also pp. xii, 175). _Douglas Sladen_, Carthage and Tunis (2 vols., London, 1906; illus.); _Frances E. Nesbitt_, Algeria and Tunis (London, 1906; illus.); _G. Petrie_, Tunis, Kairouan, and Carthage (New York, 1909; $4.80); _A. M. Broadley’s_ ‘Tunis, Past and Present’ (London, 1882) gives an interesting account of the French conquest of Tunisia. Of French books may be mentioned La Tunisie (Législation, Gouvernement, Administration) by _D. Gaudiani et P. Thiaucourt_ (Paris, 1910; 12½ fr.); _H. Lorin_, L’Afrique du Nord (Paris, 1908); _J. Toutain_, Les Cités Romaines de la Tunisie (Paris, 1896; 12½ fr.); _R. Cagnat et H. Saladin_, Voyage en Tunisie (Paris, 1887); _R. Cagnat_, L’Armée Romaine d’Afrique (Paris, 1892; 40 fr.); _Charles Diehl_, L’Afrique Byzantine (Paris, 1896; 20 fr.); _H. Saladin_, Tunis et Kairouan (Paris, 1908; 4 fr.). Carthage is the scene of _Gust. Flaubert’s_ historical novel Salammbô. MAPS of the Service Géographique de l’Armée (comp. p. 175): sheets on the scale of 1 : 50,000, each 1½ fr.; on the scale of 1 : 100,000, each 1 fr. 20 c.; and on the scale of 1 : 200,000, each 70 c.—A general survey is afforded by the Carte des Routes et des Chemins de Fer de la Tunisie, 1 : 500,000 (Tunis, 1908). See also Map, p. 319. 51. From (_Constantine, Bona_) Souk-Ahras to Tunis. RAILWAY from Souk-Ahras to Tunis, 154 M., direct train with dining-car between Ghardimaou and Tunis (déj. 4, D. 4½ fr.) in 7 hrs. (27 fr. 80, 20 fr. 85, 14 fr. 90 c.; from Constantine to Tunis 14¼ hrs.); also ordinary train in 11¼ hrs. on Mon., Wed., & Frid.—Custom-house examination at Ghardimaou, strict as to tobacco and cigars, which are a government monopoly in Tunisia. All luggage not accompanied by the owner will be detained at the custom-house. MOTORISTS from Bona (p. 309) to Tunis must go viâ La Calle (p. 131), Tabarca (p. 327), and Béja (p. 328). From Constantine to (134 M.) _Souk-Ahras_, see RR. 48, 49.—The line from Souk-Ahras to Tunis, opened in 1879 (before the establishment of the French protectorate), crosses the Tebessa line (R. 50) and then descends to the S. into the _Medjerda Valley_ (pp. 313, 320), called by the Carthaginians _Makar_, and by the Romans _Bagradas_, the most fertile and most important in Tunisia. Beyond (5½ M.) _Tarja_ (1611 ft.) the valley forms a short ravine. 10½ M. _Sidi-Bader_, in a meadowy dale, the future junction of the line from Bona to the mines on Jebel Ouenza (p. 314). The train traverses a lonely mountain-region to (20½ M.) _Oued-Mougras_ (1171 ft.), a finely situated village, and then runs through a narrow valley in the frontier-hills, with dense underwood, to (30½ M.) _Sidi el-Hemessi_ (853 ft.), the last Algerian village. 37 M. =Ghardimaou= (673 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. du Commerce; Algerian and Tunisian frontier, see above), a colonists’ village (Tues. market) at the entrance to the _Regba_, the upper plain of the Medjerda, which is fertile only in rainy seasons. About 7 M. to the N. of Ghardimaou, beyond the _Oued Raraï_, lies _Henchir Sidi Ali Bel-Kassem_, on a hill between the _Oued el-Hammam_ and the _Oued Henja_. This was the Roman town =Thuburnica=, among the ruins of which are the cellæ of two temples and a Byzantine fortress. 45 M. _Oued-Meliz_ (584 ft.; Mon. corn-market), a village a little above the Oued Raraï (p. 325) and the mouth of the _Oued Meliz_. Oued-Meliz is the station for the village of _Chemtou_ (590 ft.), 2 M. to the N.E., at the influx of the _Oued Melah_ into the Medjerda, the =Simitthu= of the Carthaginian and Roman periods. Its once famous quarries of yellowish red ‘Numidian’ marble are now abandoned. Among the ruins are a Roman bridge across the Medjerda, where the old road to Le Kef diverges (p. 360); also remains of the forum (44 by 27 yds.), of thermæ, cisterns, and an aqueduct; an interesting Roman wall on the bank of the Melah; the fairly preserved *Theatre; and, near the ancient Tabarca road, the burial-ground with its numerous tombstones. On the slope of the town-hill (830 ft.), which is crowned with a small Byzantine fortress, lies the so-called Temple des Boucliers, of the Punic and Roman periods. 50 M. _Sidi-Meskine_, at the mouth of the Regba, between _Jebel el-Herrech_ (2277 ft.) on the left and _Jebel Bou-Rebbah_ (2431 ft.) on the right. The train now enters the _Dakla_, the central plain of the Medjerda, about 25 M. long, partly swampy in winter and malarious and extremely hot in summer, which from ancient times till now has been the chief granary of Tunisia. 57½ M. =Souk el-Arba= (470 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. du Commerce; Hôt. de France; pop. 1500), a thriving village of immigrant farmers, partly built with materials from Bulla Regia, and named after its Wednesday (‘fourth day’) corn-market, the most important in N. Tunisia next to those of Béja and Mateur. Road to _Le Kef_ (p. 360) viâ the small village of _Nebeur_, the terminus of the railway from Béja (p. 328), with important iron-ore mines. From Souk el-Arba a field-road leads to the N., in the direction of the conduit, somewhat apart from the Tabarca road, to (4½ M.) =Bulla Regia=, the prosperous ancient capital of the Dakla in the Carthaginian period, and in 203 the scene of Scipio’s victory over Hasdrubal and Syphax. The village lies on a terrace on the S. slope of _Jebel Rebia_ (2123 ft.) and owes its modern name _Hammam-Darradji_ to its spring. Among the interesting Roman ruins are the large *_Thermae_; a *_Nymphaeum_, or fountain; a _Temple of Apollo_, an open court with three cellæ in the style of Punic sanctuaries (comp. p. 357); a *_Dwelling House_, with an almost intact groundfloor, a mosaic pavement, vaults, and stairs to the upper floor. The _Cisterns_ now serve the natives as habitations and the old _Byzantine Fortress_ is now a caravanserai. The ruins of the _Amphitheatre_ are less important. Three well-preserved subterranean _Palaces_ and a _Punic Fortress_ have been recently excavated. The rock-tombs of the _Necropolis_ date partly from the Punic period. FROM SOUK EL-ARBA TO TABARCA, 42 M., by the highroad. (Diligence to Aïn-Draham, in summer only, at 1 p.m., in 6 hrs.; from Aïn-Draham to Tabarca at 10.45 a.m., in 6 hrs., there and back 6 fr.) This excursion, only suitable for the warmer season, introduces us to the most beautiful parts of the *=Kroumirie=, which, thanks to its ample rainfall (p. 321), is the most richly wooded region in Barbary. Now and then we meet with an almost virgin forest of cork-trees, evergreen oaks, elms, ashes, and other trees, in whose shade grow luxuriant ferns, while babbling brooks refresh the wayfarer. It was owing to violations of the frontier and thefts of cattle committed by the _Kroumirs_ that the French at length occupied Tunisia in 1881, but the natives are now peaceable herdsmen, wood-cutters, and charcoal-burners. The tombs of this Berber tribe still recall the ancient megalithic monuments of their ancestors. The road ascends to the N.W. from the Dakla, through a depression between Jebel el-Herrech and Jebel Rebia (p. 326), to the saddle on the N.E. slope of _Jebel Halloufa_ (1512 ft.), and then turns to the N. into the valley of the _Oued Rzella_, a feeder of the Oued Bou Heurtma (see below). It passes (13 M.) _Fernana_ (820 ft.; Restaurants Dauteroche and Richetti) and ascends, soon more rapidly, to the (19½ M.) forester’s house of _Camp de la Santé_ and (20½ M.) _Les Chênes_ (2461 ft.; Hôt. des Chênes), a small summer resort superbly situated amid venerable evergreen oaks. The road descends in windings for a short time and then ascends again between _Jebel Bir_ (see below) on the right and _Kef Sidi Abdallah_ (2861 ft.) on the left, on whose slope is the kubba of Sidi Abdallah Ben-Djemel, the chief saint of the Kroumirs.—25½ M. =Aïn-Draham= (about 2625 ft.; Hôt. de France, Hôt. Serrières, both quite good; Mon. market), an agricultural village amidst cork-trees and evergreen oaks, lies in the heart of the Kroumirie, at the N. base of *_Jebel Bir_ (3327 ft.), which commands a splendid survey of the Kroumirie and the Nefza Mts. (p. 328), stretching to the N. to the sea, to the N.W. to the lakes near La Calle (p. 131), and to the S. to the Dakla. The road now descends across the _Col des Ruines_ (2382 ft.) in windings to (30½ M.) _Babouch_ (1637 ft.; frontier custom-house), a village of immigrant farmers, where the road to La Calle diverges to the W. (22½ M. from Aïn-Draham; diligence 5 fr.). Our road, flanked at first by cork-trees and then passing through groves of olive and fig-trees, now descends the picturesque valley of the _Oued el-Kébir_, the ancient _Tusca_, the boundary between the Roman province of Africa (p. 321) and Numidia. 42 M. =Tabarca= (Hôt. Tiret, plain but quite good; Hôt. de France; pop. 1300, of whom 1100 are Europeans; Frid. market), a quiet little seaport in the fertile coast-plain between the Oued el-Kébir and _Cape Tabarca_, was the Roman _Thabraca_, the busiest harbour on the coast-road between Utica (p. 353) and Hippo Regius (p. 309), the outlet for the marble of Simitthu (p. 326) and for the timber and the wild beasts of the Kroumirie. Hardly a trace of that period now exists. The loftily situated Turkish _Bordj Djedid_ is now used as barracks. Opposite lies the bare island of _Tabarca_, rising abruptly on the N. side, with a picturesque old Genoese castle. Of the two, originally Carthaginian, quays connecting the island with the mainland the westmost has lately been restored, but the shallow harbour is scarcely used except by Sicilian fishermen. The steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. 130) anchor in the open roads.—For the future railway to _Mateur_, see p. 352. From Tabarca to _Béja_, see p. 328. 64 M. _Ben-Bachir_, not far from the influx of the _Oued Mellègue_, the ancient _Muluth_, and of the _Oued Tessa_ (p. 357) into the Medjerda. We cross the _Oued Bou Heurtma_, the _Armascla_ of the Romans. Fine view of _Jebel Gorra_ (p. 355). 71½ M. _Souk el-Khemis_ (427 ft.; ‘fifth-day market’), a thriving agricultural village, the largest at this end of the Dakla. The valley now contracts. 79½ M. _Sidi-Zehili_. 87½ M. _Pont-de-Trajan_ (Rail. Restaurant), misnamed after a three-arched *_Bridge_ of the time of Tiberius, 99 yds. long and 8 yds. wide, one of the oldest Roman structures in Barbary. FROM PONT-DE-TRAJAN TO BÉJA, 9 M., branch-line in 24 min. (1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c., 80 c.). The line ascends the bare valley of the _Oued Béja_, to the N.—9 M. =Béja= (715–1000 ft.; Hôt. de France, etc.; pop. 12,000, incl. 1600 Europeans), the _Vaga_ of the Roman period, when it had a great market and was one of the most thriving places in the Medjerda valley, owes its present prosperity to the grain-trade and the culture of early vegetables. To the E., bordering the Avenue de la Gare, is the new quarter of the Italian and French farmers, with the _Halle aux Grains_. To the W., on the slope beyond the _Oued Bou Zegdem_, rises the picturesque old town. On its N.E. margin the Grande Rue leads to the _Marché_ (cattle-market, Tues.) and to the _Souks_ (p. 335). The _Grande Mosquée_, built in the form of an Egyptian cross (p. 376), one of the oldest in Tunisia, is famed for its borrowed wealth of ancient Roman capitals. The only Roman ruins are the _Bâb el-Aïn_ (‘fountain-gate’) and relics of _Thermae_ and of a _Basin_. The _Town Walls_, with their many towers, were originally Byzantine, but have been repeatedly restored. With the exception of the ‘keep’, the Byzantine fortress on the top of the hill has been superseded by the _Kasba_, built largely of Roman materials. On the _Bou Hamdan_ (1047 ft.), a hill 1 M. to the N.W. of Béja, lies a large _Punic Burial Ground_, with rock-tombs.—Railways run from Béja to the N.E. to _Mateur_ (p. 351) and to the S.W. to _Nebeur_ (p. 326). The picturesque route to Tabarca (45 M.; motor-omnibus or diligence) leads to the N. from Béja, past the zinc-mines of _Jebel Charra_ (1414 ft.), and through the now treeless valleys of the Oued Béja (_Oued Djorfane_ in its upper course) and the _Oued Sersar_. It next passes the richest calamine or zinc-ore mines in Tunisia (_Jebel Damous_, _Aïn-Roumi_, _Jebel Sidi Ahmed_) and leads through the grand ravine of _Khanguet Kef Tout_ into the valley of the _Oued Maden_. 25 M. _Djebel-Abiod_ (Hôt. des Nefzas, quite good), a village in the _Nefza Mts._, famed for their cork-tree woods, their abundant game, and their great deposits of hæmatite. (Railway from Mateur to Djebel-Abiod, see p. 352; thence to Tabarca under construction.) We now drive to the W., between _Jebel Kherouf_ (2035 ft.) on the left and a chain of *Dunes (650 ft.) on the right, to _Râs er-Radjel_, and cross the Oued el-Kébir to (45 M.) _Tabarca_ (p. 327). From Pont-de-Trajan to _Teboursouk_ (_Dougga_), see p. 355. The Medjerda, in its sinuous course, then forces its way through the bare hill-country below Pont-de-Trajan. For a short distance the train runs to the N.E. into the side-valley of the _Oued Zarga_, stopping at (100½ M.) _Oued-Zarga_ (322 ft.), and then returns to the E., through hilly country, and below _Toukabeur_ and _Chaouach_ (see below), into the valley of the Medjerda. 113 M. =Medjez el-Bab= (197 ft.; Hôt. des Colons; omn. to the diligence office 30 c.), a considerable village on the right bank of the Medjerda, 1¼ M. to the S. of the station, was formerly _Membressa_, a busy place on the Roman road from Carthage to Tebessa (p. 315). The eight-arched _Medjerda Bridge_ was built in the 18th cent. with the materials of the Roman bridge; and the Roman _Triumphal Arch_, to which the village owes its name (‘ford by the gateway’), has lately been almost entirely demolished for a similar purpose. Important corn-market on Mondays. On the slope of _Jebel Chaouach_ (1778 ft.), some 5½ M. to the N.W. of Medjez el-Bab, lies _Chaouach_ (1480 ft.), with the ruins of the small Roman town of _Sua_ (triumphal arch, nymphæum, town-wall, etc.). About 1¼ M. to the W. of Chaouach are the ruins of _Toukabeur_ (1221 ft.), the Roman _Thuccabor_, with its ancient cisterns, gateways, temple, etc. From Medjez el-Bab to _Teboursouk_ and _Dougga_ (_Le Kef_), see R. 55. [Illustration: TUNIS] [Illustration: REBAAT BAB DJAZIRA] The train now proceeds, generally somewhat apart from the tortuous stream, at the foot of bare hills (_Jebel Heïdous_, _Jebel Lansarine_, etc.), to (119 M.) _El-Heri_ and (122½ M.) _Bordj Toum_. 133 M. =Tebourba= (133 ft.; Hôt. Cafort, R. 2, B. ½, D. 2½, pens. 6 fr.; pop. 2000) is pleasantly situated among olive-groves. On a height (164 ft.) crowned with the kubba of _Sidi Ras-Allah_, between the village and the Medjerda, are the scanty ruins of the Roman town of _Thuburbo Minus_. About ½ hr. to the S. of Tebourba lies the dam or *_Bridge of El-Bathan_, originally Roman, but restored to form a reservoir for watering the olive-trees. Adjacent are a small manufactory of chechias (a kind of fez) and barracks. Near Tebourba are large quarries of gypsum. 139 M. _Djedeïda_, junction for Bizerta (R. 54), with a barrage and an agricultural school and farm of the Alliance Israélite. The train crosses the Medjerda and, at the arches of the *_Aqueduct of Carthage_ (p. 348), still 7½ M. long, the watershed between the Medjerda valley and the undulating plain of Tunis. 148 M. _La Manouba_ (p. 342). We then pass _Kassar-Saïd_ (on the left; p. 342) and the (150½ M.) _Bardo_ (p. 339), and for a short time skirt the N. side of the _Sebkha es-Sedjoumi_ (p. 332). Lastly the train rounds the S. edge of the old town (_Rebat Bab-Djazira_, p. 337) and passes close to the _Manoubia Hill_ (p. 339) and the _Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen_ (p. 339). 154 M. _Tunis_ (Gare du Sud, see below). 52. Tunis. ARRIVAL BY SEA. The _Quay_ where almost all the steamers (p. 331) are berthed is 10–15 min. from the hotels. The _Douane_ is close by. It is best to entrust luggage at once to the hotel servants; if a porter (hamal) is required his charge should be asked (usually 10 c. for small packages, and 25 c. for each trunk carried to the cab or omnibus). Cab (into the town 1 fr., each trunk 15 c.) and tramway (No. 1), see p. 330. =Railway Station.= _Gare du Sud_ (Pl. E, 5; Restaurant), Place de la Gare (Rue es-Sadikia).—Railway and sleeping-car office in the town, König & Co. (p. 331). =Hotels= (comp. p. 324; often full in Feb.-April). *TUNISIA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. c; E, 4, 5), Avenue de Carthage, behind the Casino Municipal (p. 331), with a small garden, R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 13–20, omn. 1½–2 fr.; *HÔT. DE PARIS & IMPÉRIAL (Pl. a; D, 5), Rue al-Djazira 23bis, R. 3–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½–4, D. 4–5, pens. 9–16, omn. without luggage 1 fr.—*GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. b; D, 4), Avenue de France, R. 3½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr.; *HÔT. ST. GEORGES, Avenue de Paris (N. of Pl. E, 2), near the Belvedere Park (p. 338), suitable for some stay, R. 3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 9–12½ fr. (with dépendance HÔT. SUISSE, moderate); HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. d; D, 5), Rue Léon-Roches 8, quiet site, pens. 9–11, omn. 1 fr.—Plainer: HÔT. EYMON (Pl. e, D 4; ‘Gigino’), Rue de l’Eglise 1, corner of Place de la Bourse, R. 3–4, B. ¾, déj. or D. 2½, pens. 8 fr., good; TUNIS HOTEL & DE GENÈVE (Pl. f; D, 4, 5), Rue d’Italie 12, R. 2½–6, B. ¾, déj. 2–2½, D. 2½–3, omn. 1–1¼ fr.; HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE, Ave. Jules-Ferry 37, R. 2½–5, B. ¾, déj. 2, D. 2½, pens. 7½, omn. 1¼ fr.; HÔT. MAISON DORÉE, Rue de Hollande 10 (Pl. E, 5), with restaurant, similar charges; HÔT. MODERNE (Pl. g; D, 4), Rue de Constantine 12, corner of Rue de Bône, R. from 3½, déj. or D. 3, pens. from 9½ fr.; HÔT. DE LA POSTE, Rue d’Espagne 5 (Pl. D, 5).—=Hôtels Garnis.= HÔT. BELLEVUE (Pl. h; D, 4), Rue es-Sadikia 1; HÔT. RÉGENCE (dépendance of the Hôt. Eymon), Ave. de France, R. 3–8, B. 1 fr.; SPLENDID HOTEL, Ave. Jules-Ferry 74; ROYAL HOTEL, Rue d’Espagne 19, R. from 3 fr.; HÔT. CENTRAL, Ave. de Paris 8; FAMILY HOTEL, Rue d’Allemagne 15 (Pl. D, 5), near the marché (p. 333), plain.—_Furnished Rooms_ (20–70 fr. per month) abound. =Cafés.= _Café du Casino_, in the palmarium of the Casino Municipal (p. 331), with a summer terrace in the Ave. Jules-Ferry; _Café-Restaurant de Tunis_, Ave. de France 2, in the Hôt. Bellevue, much frequented; _Café de Paris_, same street, No. 16. Arabian cafés (p. 174) in the Halfaouine quarter (Pl. B, 2), at the Bab Djedid (Pl. C, 6), etc.—CONFECTIONERS. _Engerer_, Place de la Bourse 1; _Wagner & Co._, Rue d’Italie 24, and Ave. de Paris 8; _Montelateci_, Ave. de France 7. =Restaurants.= *_Brasserie du Phénix_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 74, in the Splendid Hotel (see above); _Café-Restaurant de Tunis_, see above; _Salvarelli_, Ave. de France, adjoining the Grand-Hôtel; _Maxéville_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 63 (déj. or D. 1½ fr.); _Maison Dorée_, in the hotel (see above); _Restaurant du Rosbif_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 56; _Restaurant de la Poste_, Rue d’Angleterre 8. Carriages. │ │ Voiture │ Voiture de Place │de Remise ═══════════════════════════════╪═══════════════════╤═════════╪═════════ │ │With two │ │ With one horse │ horses │ │ (2–3 │ │ │ │ pers.) │(4 pers.)│ „ │ Drive (course) in the town │ │ │ │ (petite banlieue) │ 0.80│ 0.90│ 1.—│ 1.60 Outside the town, up to 8 │ │ │ │ kilomètres (5 M.) │ 2.50│ 2.70│ 3.—│ 4.50 Hour in the town │ 1.30│ 1.50│ 1.80│ 2.40 Hour outside the town │ 1.80│ 2.—│ 2.40│ 3.20 Day (12 hrs.) │ 12.—│ 12.—│ 15.—│ 20.— The chief limits of the inner town are the Bardo and the Belvedere Park. From 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. (or in April-Sept. 11–5) a fare and a half is charged. During festivals and races, and also for long drives, bargain advisable. Small packages free; trunk 15 c.—There are also TAXIMETER MOTOR CABS (comp. tariff). =Motor Cars.= _Auto-Palace_, Rue d’Autriche Prolongée 3; _Garage Peyrard_, Rue de Belgique 10; _Tunisienne Automobile_, Rue de Grèce. =Tramways= (fares by zones, from 5 c. upwards; also transfer-tickets), from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.: =1.= _Porte de France_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry (Pl. E, 4), Ave. du Port, _Harbour_.—=2.= _Porte de France_, Rue al-Djazira (Pl. D, 5, 6), Ave. Bab-Djedid (Pl. D, C, 6), _Place de la Kasba_ (Pl. B, 5).—=3.= _Porte de France_, Rue des Maltais (Pl. D, 4), Place Bab-Souika (Pl. B, C, 3), _Kasba_.—=4.= _Rue al-Djazira_ (Rue d’Algérie; Pl. D, 6), Rue es-Sadikia (Pl. D, 5; Gare du Sud), Rue de Rome (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 4, 3), Place Bab-Souika, _Bab Bou-Saâdoun_ (Pl. A, 2).—=5.= _Place Bab-Souika_ (Pl. B, C, 3), Bab Bou-Saâdoun, _Bardo_ (p. 339; every ¼ hr., 15 c.), _La Manouba_ (p. 342; every ½ hr., 30 c.).—=6.= _Porte de France_, Rue des Maltais (Pl. D, 4), Bab el-Khadra (Pl. C, 2), Cimetière Municipal, _Belvedere Park_ (p. 338; Ave. Carnot, 15 c.).—=7.= _Rue de Rome_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 4–2), _Belvedere Park_ (Rond-Point; every 10 or 15 min., 15 c.; on week-days there and back 25 c.), _Ariana_ (p. 338; every ½ hr., 30 c.).—=8.= _Ave. de France_ (Pl. D, 4), Ave. de Carthage (Pl. E, 5–7), Bab Alleoua (Pl. E, 7), _Abattoirs_ (to the S. of Pl. E, 7).—For the electric tramways to _Carthage_ and _La Marsa_, see p. 343. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. D, 5), Rue d’Italie 30; branches on the quay and in the Place Bab-Souika. =Steamboat Agents.= For the _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (RR. 21, 22), Banque de Tunisie, Rue es-Sadikia 3, and on the Quai Ouest; for the _Società Nazionale_ (RR. 25, 26, 64), Florio, Rue d’Alger 1; for the _Comp. de Navigation Mixte_ (RR. 21, 26, 64), Ave. Jules-Ferry and Quai Ouest; for the _Hamburg-American Line_, the _Hungarian Adria_, and the _German Levant Line_, Siebert & Co., Rue d’Italie 5bis; for the _North German Lloyd_, Heckmann, see below. =Tourist Offices.= _Eisen_ (travel and sport), Rue Léon-Roches 6; _König & Co._, Rue es-Sadikia; _Pernull & Myddleton_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 39; _R. Heckmann_ (Universal Tourist Office), Ave. de Carthage, opposite Tunisia Palace Hotel; _Lubin_, Ave. de France 5.—_Comité d’Hivernage_, Ave. de Carthage 8. =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _E. J. L. Berkeley_, Place de la Bourse (Pl. D, 4); vice-consuls, _Chas. A. Goodwin_, _R. Schembri_.—U. S. Vice-Consul, _A. J. Proux_, Ave. de France. =Physicians.= _Dr. Domela_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 72; _Dr. Valetta_, Rue d’Espagne; _Dr. Zammit_, Rue Amilcar (all three speak English); _Dr. Jaeggy_, Rue d’Autriche; _Mlle. Dr. Gordon_, Rue de Rome 18.—CHEMIST. _Heyler_, Ave. Jules-Ferry 54 (Théâtre Rossini, Pl. E, 4). =Baths.= _Dublineau_, Rue d’Allemagne 17 (Pl. D, 5; well fitted up; bath 1½, Turkish 3 fr.); _Bains Français_, Rue de Suisse 8; _Bains Maures_ (comp. p. 175), Ave. Bab-Menara. =Banks= (comp. p. 174). _Banque de l’Algérie_, Rue de Rome 18; _Comp. Algérienne_, Rue de Rome; _Banque de Tunisie_, Rue es-Sadikia 3; _Comptoir d’Escompte de Paris_, Ave. de France; _Cooperativa Italiana_, Rue es-Sadikia 7; _Krieger_, Rue al-Djazira 45. =Goods Agents.= _Meyer_, Porte de France 35; _Dana_, Rue es-Sadikia 9. =Booksellers.= _Niérat & Fortin_, Ave. de France 15, and _Saliba_, No. 17.—PHOTOGRAPHS (and photographic materials). _Lehnert & Landrock_, Ave. de France 17, and _Garrigues_, No. 9; _Neuer_, Rue Léon-Roches 6; _Vella_, Rue d’Allemagne 4.—NEWSPAPERS. _Dépêche Tunisienne_, _Tunisie Française, Unione_ (Ital. and Fr.).—SHOP for European goods, _Magasin Général_, Ave. de France 22 (fixed prices). Oriental goods at the _Musée Ahmed Djamal_, Souk el-Attârîn 11 and Rue d’Autriche 108; _Pohoomull Frères_, Ave. de France 17. The Oriental articles in the SOUKS (pp. 335–337) and even the fezes (chechia) are mostly of European make and may be bought cheaper at home. Important purchases should not be made without the aid of a friend who knows the country and its ways (bargaining necessary). The services of touts, guides, and hotel servants should be declined, as they tend to raise prices. =Theatres.= _Théâtre du Casino Municipal_, in the Casino Municipal (see below), entrance in the Ave. Jules-Ferry, for operas and operettas, 15th Nov. to 15th April; _Théâtre Rossini_ (Pl. E, 4), Ave. Jules-Ferry 48, for Italian and French dramas.—CASINO MUNICIPAL (Pl. E, 4), Ave. de Carthage 1, with hall for concerts and varieties (‘Palmarium’), a summer terrace, card-rooms, and American bar. The _Pavillon du Belvédère_, in the park of the Belvedere (p. 338), is the summer casino of the same company.—BAND on Sun. and Thurs. afternoons, Place de la Résidence; on Wed. in front of the Cercle Militaire. =English Church.= _St. George’s_ (‘Egl. anglic.’; Pl. C, 3), Rue Bab-Carthagène 39, service at 10.15 a.m. =Sights.= _Bardo Museum_, same as Musée Alaoui, see below. _Bardo Palace_ (p. 340), week-days, at any hour; tickets at the Musée Alaoui (comp, below). _Bibliothèque Française_ (p. 333), week-days 9–11 and 2–4 (in summer 8–11 only). _Dâr el-Bey_ (p. 336), daily, 9–11 and 3–5; fee ½–1 fr. _Jardin d’Essais_ (p. 338), daily 8–11 and 1–5 (April-Oct. 7–11 and 3–6). _Musée Alaoui_ (p. 340), daily except Mon. and great Catholic festivals 9.30–11.30 and 1–4 (16th Feb. to 15th Oct. 2–5), 1 fr. (Sun. free); the same ticket admits to the Bardo Palace also, if visited on the same day. =Two Days.= 1st. Forenoon, _Ave. Jules-Ferry_ and _Ave. de France_ (p. 333); walk through the _Souks_ of the Medina (p. 335) and the adjoining _Mohammedan Quarters_ (p. 334); visit to _Place el-Halfaouine_ (p. 337). Afternoon, _Bardo Museum_ (p. 340) or _Belvedere Park_ (p. 338), or, by carriage, both.—2nd. Excursion to _Carthage_, see R. 53. _Tunis_, Ital. _Túnisi_, capital of the _Régence de Tunis_, and seat of the French Resident-General (p. 323) and of the Mohammedan university, is the largest city in N. Africa after Cairo and Alexandria, and vies with Sfax as a most important harbour. Population about 200,000, of whom about 115,000 are Mohammedans, 22,500 Jews, 41,000 Italians, 14,000 French, 5400 Maltese, and 250 Greeks. The town lies in 36°47′ N. lat. and 10°10′ W. long., on the E. margin of the narrow tongue of land (rising to 190 ft.) between the _Lac de Tunis_ (or _Lake Bahira_, p. 129) and the small salt-lake _Sebkha es-Sedjoumi_, an old lagoon. The central part of the sea of houses composing the old town is the _Medina_, the oldest Moorish quarter, built largely out of the ruins of Thunes, Carthage, and Utica, and now the chief focus of trade and industry. Adjacent, to the N. and S., are two poor quarters, also chiefly Mohammedan, the _Rebat Bab-Souika_ and _Rebat Bab-Djazira_, formerly N. and E. suburbs. The monotonous European new town in the low ground to the E. of the Medina, exposed in summer to the exhalations of Lake Bahira, is gradually extending from the _Porte de France_ (formerly _Bab el-Bahar_, sea-gate) towards the harbour. On the brow of the hill to the W. of the old town are the old Kasba and most of the public buildings, almost all built under the French protectorate. Some of these lie outside the Turkish town-wall, once 6000 yds. long, erected in the 17th century. _Tunis_, the ancient _Thunes_, a Berber name given to an earlier Phœnician colony, appears in history in 508 B.C. as an ally of Carthage. In 395 it was destroyed by rebellious Berber tribes. It was from Thunes that Agathocles (p. 163) and Regulus (p. 345) advanced against Carthage, and here, after the first Punic war, the discontented mercenaries from Sicca Veneria (p. 360) established themselves. Tunis was probably destroyed by the Romans at the same time as Carthage (146 B.C.) and rebuilt later. After the downfall of Carthage Utica (p. 353) entered into the heritage of her proud neighbour, but for a short time only; for from 29 B.C. onwards Carthage resumed her ancient supremacy and continued to flourish down to her second destruction in 698 A.D. This time Tunis was her natural successor. But the nomadic Arabs, being ignorant of navigation, and the Aglabides (p. 323) preferred Kairwan (p. 372), which had recently been founded in the heart of the Tunisian steppe; and the succeeding Fatimite and Zirite dynasties favoured the Sahel, with Mehdia (p. 369) as their new capital, to the detriment of N. Tunisia. At length, under the Hafsides (1206–1573; p. 323), Tunis became the capital, and rapidly grew to be the greatest and fairest city in the land, as well as a zealous promoter of the glorious Moorish art and science of the 13th and 14th centuries. The most distinguished of the Hafside sovereigns was Abû Abdallah Mohammed el-Mostanser Billah, who in 1270 defended his capital successfully against Louis IX., the Saint (p. 346). After the decline of that dynasty at the close of the 15th cent. and the capture of Tunis by Kheireddin (p. 221) in 1534, the city was attacked by the Spaniards in three different campaigns (p. 323), and was conquered four times by the Turks and the Algerians (in 1569, 1573, 1689, and 1757); yet in the 17th and 18th centuries, thanks to its Oriental trade and the booty of its pirates, it again enjoyed great prosperity. The only mediæval buildings in the old town which have survived all these vicissitudes are three mosques, now much modernized. The distinctive character of the present town is of Mauro-Turkish origin. Those who cross the threshold of the Orient here for the first time will be specially struck with the narrow and crooked lanes of the Mohammedan quarters, only 12–16 ft. wide, with the motley crowd in the Souks (p. 335), and with the picturesque concourse of all the tribes of N. Africa and the Sahara. The poor Jewish quarter (p. 337) is less interesting. The strange costume of the women, with their kufias or sugar-loaf hats, loose jackets, and tight-fitting trousers, is now rarely seen except on members of the older generation, while the pretty, old-fashioned costume of the girls is a thing of the past. _John Howard Payne_ (b. 1792), author of ‘Home, Sweet Home’, was United States consul at Tunis from 1842 until his death in 1852. a. The New Town. From the _Harbour_ (Port; see inset map, Pl. E, 1), which together with the Bahira Canal (p. 129) was constructed in 1888–96, the short Avenue du Port (tramway No. 1, p. 330) leads through the _Piccola Sicilia_, a group of workmen’s huts, into the town, ending at the bronze statue of _Jules Ferry_ (1832–93), the French statesman who brought about the occupation of Tunisia. The AVENUE JULES-FERRY (Pl. E, 4), or AVENUE DE LA MARINE, the finest street in the new town, 66 yds. wide and 710 yds. long, is planted with double avenues of fig-trees. On the left, just beyond the divergence, to the right and left, of the unfinished Avenue de Paris (p. 338) and Avenue de Carthage (Pl. E, 5–7), which together are 2¼ M. long, rises the _Casino Municipal_ (Pl. E, 4; p. 331). The Ave. Jules-Ferry ends at the PLACE DE LA RÉSIDENCE (Pl. D, 4; band, see p. 331), the centre of the new town. To the left, on the S. side, rises the =Palais de la Résidence= (Pl. D, E, 4), or _Maison de France_, built in 1856–60 for the French consulate (see p. 334), and tastefully remodelled in 1890–2 by _Dupertuys_ as a dwelling for the resident-general. The beautiful garden is not accessible. Opposite the Residence is the =Cathedral= (Pl. D, 4); erected in 1893–7. The Rue es-Sadikia leads to the S. from the W. end of the square to the _Gare du Sud_ (p. 329). The Ave. Jules-Ferry is continued by the much narrower AVENUE DE FRANCE (Pl. D, 4), intersecting the older European quarter, the favourite promenade of the town. A little to the S. of it, in the Rue d’Italie, which leads to the _Post and Telegraph Office_ (Pl. D, 5), is the _Marché_ (Pl. D, 5; interesting from 7 to 10 a.m.). In the Rue de Russie, the southmost street in this quarter, is the _Bibliothèque Française_ (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 331), which is well supplied with literature relating to N. Africa. b. The Old Town. At the W. end of the Ave. de France (p. 333), the starting-point of several tramway-lines (see p. 330), is the Porte de France (p. 332), and beyond it lies the PLACE DE LA BOURSE (Pl. D, 4), which presents a busy scene all day. In and near this square are most of the =Consulates= (British among others), as during the Turkish period. The old _French Consulate_ (about 1650 to 1860), which served also as a warehouse (fondouk), is at No. 15 Rue de l’Ancienne-Douane. To the W. from the Place de la Bourse run the two chief thoroughfares of the Medina. To the right is the RUE DE LA KASBA (Pl. D, C, 4, 5; p. 336), leading past the Jewish quarter (p. 337) and the _Souk el-Grana_ (Pl. C, 4) to the upper boulevards (p. 336), to which it is the chief approach. To the left is the RUE DE L’EGLISE (Pl. D, C, 4, 5), leading direct to the Souks of the Medina, the main business street of the Christian merchants in the Turkish period. We follow the Rue de l’Eglise. On the left is the small church of _Ste. Croix_ (Pl. C, D, 4, 5; 1662), to which the street owes its name. Then, on the right, is the _Administration des Habous_, the headquarters of the Mohammedan pious foundations. Lastly we pass through a vaulted passage under the _Direction des Antiquités_. The Rue de l’Eglise ends at the Rue de Djamâa ez-Zitouna, on the E. side of the chief mosque, the =Djamâa ez-Zitouna= (Pl. C, 5), which is said to trace its origin to the tomb of St. Oliva of Palermo, a Christian saint revered even by many Mohammedans. The mosque was founded in 732 by Obeïd Allah ibn el-Habbab, enlarged by the Aglabide Sijadet Allah I. (p. 374), and repeatedly altered under the Hafsides. When Tunis was plundered by the troops of Emp. Charles V. the mosque was used as a stable. Since then the edifice has been much modernized, and is lavishly adorned with spoils from Carthage. The chief portal, behind the colonnade in the Rue de Djamâa ez-Zitouna, where on Fridays the clergy receive the Sheikh ul-Islam, or supreme pontiff, and the side-portal in the Souk des Etoffes (p. 335) have each an ornamental ancient pillar as a lintel. The many-aisled interior, with its 161 columns and two domes over the nave, is similar in plan to the Sidi Okba Mosque at Kairwan (p. 374). The new minaret, 145 ft. high, erected in the Andalusian style by _Si Slîmân Ennigro_ in 1894, is a free copy of the old tower. The pile of buildings is best surveyed from the roof of the Dâr el-Bey (p. 336). The mosque serves also as a lecture-room for the Mohammedan _University_. The instruction is under the direction of the Sheikh ul-Islam; there are about a hundred teachers and 400 students. Admittance to the twenty-two medersas, or colleges, for students from other parts of the country, and to the library famed for 7000 Oriental MSS. is granted to none but Mohammedans. The Zitouna Mosque lies in the region of the *=Souks= (Pl. C, 5; Arabic _sûk_, market), the market quarter of the Medina, dating from the Hafside period (13th cent.). As usual in the East the lanes are roofed over. The small narrow shops are shut in by a counter, over which the trader swings himself into his seat with the aid of a rope. Most trades have their own streets. It is interesting to watch the people at work in those souks where the wares are made on the spot. The larger bazaars in some of the streets are designed solely to attract foreigners. The busiest time is the early morning. Friday is the Mohammedan, and Saturday the Jewish day of rest. As to purchases, see p. 331. In and near the Souks are many small Arab coffee-houses and barbers’ shops. From the Rue de Djamâa ez-Zitouna we turn to the right to visit the =Souk el-Attârîn=, the spice-market, founded in 1249. Besides the spices and perfumes sold here (such as essence of jasmine and rose-geranium, sometimes palmed off on strangers as attar of roses), we observe amber, dried henna-leaves, henna-powder (p. 108), and the big candles, often branched, which are used at weddings and for the tombs of saints.—The side-street to the right, opposite the N. side of the mosque, is the _Souk el-Blagdjia_, for leather-wares. At the W. end of the spice-market, to the left, opposite the Rue Sidi Ben-Arous (see below), is the =Souk des Etoffes=, on the W. side of the mosque, with its display of silk and woollen stuffs, carpets from Kairwan, and rugs from the Djerid (p. 386) and from Djerba (p. 393). Adjoining the Souk des Etoffes is the busy _Souk des Femmes_, the only one frequented by Mohammedan women, where female apparel, trinkets, and slippers of Saffian leather (p. 109) are sold. Between these two souks the _Souk el-Leffa_ (Pl. C, 5), off which, on the right, is the _Souk el-Kebabdjia_ (lace), leads to the *=Souk Sekajine=, the saddle-market, where, among gorgeous caparisons embroidered in gold and silver, we are specially struck with the ornaments worn by horses at the fantasias (p. 99). We return to the Souk el-Leffa. Thence, to the left, we follow the short _Souk ed-Dziria_, past the _Hôpital Sadiki_ (Pl. B, C, 5), destined for natives, to the— Rue Sidi Ben-Ziad, on the S. side of the Dâr el-Bey (p. 336). The small _Sidi Youssef Mosque_ (‘Mosquée’; Pl. C, 5), belonging to the Hanefites (p. 445), with the handsome tomb of the founder and an octagonal minaret, dates from 1610–37.—At the lower end of the street, where the Souk el-Bey branches off to the left to the Place de la Kasba, we turn to the right into the— =Souk el-Berka=, the slave-market, which was abolished only in 1842. Down to 1816 Christians captured by the pirates were sold here by auction. This is now the seat of the silversmiths, goldsmiths, and dealers in antiquities, mostly Jews. The best of their gold trinkets are from Paris; the fine silver filigree is Genoese or Maltese; the ancient coins are often spurious. From the Souk el-Berka the _Souk el-Trouk_, the street of the tailors, almost all Jews, who make the rich costumes of the Moslems, leads back to the Souk el-Attârîn. From the N.W. angle of the Zitouna Mosque the Rue Sidi Ben-Arous leads into the Rue de la Kasba (p. 334). At the junction of these streets, adjoining the burial-chapel of _Mohammed Murad Bey_ (d. 1705), is the Hanefite _Mosque of Sidi ben-Arous_ (Pl. C, 5), of 1654, similar in plan to that of Sidi Youssef (p. 335), with an elegant minaret. The Rue de la Kasba ends at the PLACE DE LA KASBA (Pl. B, C, 5), with its charming grounds. On the S. side of this square rises the =Dâr el-Bey= (Pl. B, C, 5), the largest pile of buildings in the Medina, erected in 1810 on the foundations of a Roman theatre(?) by Moroccan architects under Hamuda Bey as his town-palace. It is now the seat of the French secretary-general and other authorities. The Bey usually comes hither on Monday mornings from La Marsa (p. 351) for the transaction of business. Admittance, see p. 331. The entrance is by the portal where a sentry is posted. The covered quadrangle (patio) on the first floor forms the centre of the palace. The fine timber ceiling in the dining-room is the only object of interest in the state apartments. The council-chamber of the ministers has a dome with remarkably fine stucco-work. Here, as in the Bardo and at Kassar-Saïd, the effect is marred by European gewgaws. Fine *View from the flat roof over the white houses of the town, the Zitouna and many smaller mosques. Best light at and after noon. To the W. of the Place de la Kasba, at the junction of the two upper boulevards Bab-Benat (Pl. B, 4; p. 337) and Bab-Menara (Pl. B, C, 5, 6), the old town culminates in the =Kasba= (Pl. B, 5), an extensive group of barracks on the site of the palace of the Hafsides and the Turkish citadel. The _Kasba Mosque_, with its fine minaret, well restored in 1904, dates from 1231–5. Near the old Bab-Menara, where the Souk des Sacs diverges to the reservoir of the waterworks (p. 339), is the small _Mosquée el-Ksar_ (Pl. C, 5), the oldest in Tunis, said to have been founded by Hassan ibn en-Nôman (p. 322). The handsome minaret (1545) is an addition of the Turkish period. On the N. side of the mosque runs the Rue du Château. No. 3 is the DIVISION D’OCCUPATION (Pl. C, 5), the seat of the French commandant, formerly the *_Dâr-Hussein_ (18th cent.; well restored in 1876), one of the finest Mauro-Turkish palaces in Tunis. (Adm. by special introduction only.) The _Rue des Andalous_ (Pl. C, 5), which begins here, and its side-street Rue du Riche are the aristocratic streets of the Medina. Many of the houses have elegant marble portals and artistically grated windows. Parallel, on the E., leading to the Avenue de Bab-Djedid, runs the long Rue Tourbet el-Bey, in which at No. 62, at the corner of the Rue Sidi-Zamouhl, rises the _Tourbet el-Bey_ (Pl. C, 6), the domed tomb of the Husseinites (p. 323; ladies sometimes admitted). The Rue Sidi Kassem, the next side-street on the left, leads to the _Djamâa Djedid_ (‘new mosque’), or _Mosquée des Teinturiers_ (Pl. C, 5, 6), founded by Hussein Ali ben-Turki (p. 323). The modern minaret is by Si Slîmân Ennigro (p. 334). The open space near the dilapidated _Bab Djedid_ (Pl. C, 6), dating from 1277, is an afternoon haunt of snake-charmers and story-tellers (5–10 c. to the boy soliciting money). Between the Bab Djedid and the Place aux Chevaux (Pl. B, 6; p. 339) is the =Market Quarter= of _Rebat Bab-Djazira_ (p. 332), containing the _Souk el-Aâssar_, the _Souk des Armes_, and the _Marché-au-Blé_. From the Bab Djedid we return to the Place de la Kasba (p. 336; tramway No. 2, see p. 330). In the BOULEVARD BAB-BENAT, in an old Moslem cemetery on the right, is the _Tekia_ (Pl. B, 4, 5), a home for the aged (1905). On the left, founded in 1876, is the _Collège Sadiki_ (Pl. B, 4), a high school for Moslems. Farther on rises the handsome _Palais de Justice_ (Pl. B, 4; 1901). These two buildings are in the neo-Moorish style. We may now proceed direct to the Place Bab-Souika (see below; tramway No. 3, p. 330); but it is better to take the less direct route through the N.W. part of the Medina, by the Rue du Lutteur (diverging to the right from Boul. Bab-Benat, a little before the Palais de Justice), Rue du Pacha (Pl. B, 4), Rue de la Hafsia (Pl. B, C, 4), Rue Achour (Pl. C, B, 4, 3; with the Hanefite _Mosque of Sidi Mohammed Bey_ on the left), Rue el-Monastiri, and Rue Sidi-Mahrez. On the left, in the last-named street, rises the *=Mosque of Sidi Mahrez= (Pl. B, 3), with several domes in the Turkish style, built in the latter half of the 17th cent., resembling in the interior the Ahmed Mosque of Constantinople (p. 550). The square minaret was added early in the 19th century.—On the right is the school or _Zaouïa Sidi Mahrez_. The picturesque PLACE BAB-SOUIKA (Pl. B, C, 3) lies between the Medina and the poor _Rebat Bab-Souika_ (p. 332). Executions took place here in the Turkish period. The Rue el-Halfaouine (‘alfa street’), partly vaulted over, and lined with butchers’ shops, leads hence to the lively and industrious— PLACE EL-HALFAOUINE (Pl. B, 2), with its numerous Arab cafés, where on Mohammedan festivals, such as Ramadan (p. 447) and Bairam, the evenings and nights are spent in mirth and frolic. On the W. side is the _Djamâa Sahab et-Taba_ (Pl. B, 2), one of the largest mosques in Tunis, founded on blocks of stone from Carthage. The _Souk el-Djedid_ on the N. side is for silk wares. Time permitting, we may glance at the _Rue des Potiers_ (Pl. C, 3), seat of the once noted pottery of Tunis, or at the =Jewish Quarter= (_Hara_; Pl. C, 3, 4), in the N.E. part of the Medina. The chief _Synagogues_ (visitors admitted) are in the Impasse es-Snadli, at the corner of Rue Sidi-Mardoun, in Rue Zarkoun (Pl. C, D, 4), etc. The interesting _Old Jewish Cemetery_ (Pl. D, E, 3), just outside the old town, is entered from the Rue du Cimetière-Israélite. c. Environs. =1.= About 1¼ M. to the N. of Tunis lies the *=Jardin du Belvédère=, laid out in 1892, the most popular promenade in the environs, well shaded with palm-trees, but still unfinished. The grounds cover 250 acres on the slope of _Belvedere Hill_ (269 ft.), which was fortified in the Turkish period. The chief entrance is at the Rond Point at the end of the Ave. de Paris (p. 333; tramway No. 7, p. 330), and there is a side-entrance (tramway No. 6) in the Ave. Carnot, near the _Pépinière Municipale_ (nursery-ground) and the _Cimetière Municipal_ (opened in 1883). Halfway up, above the main entrance, rises the _Pavillon du Belvédère_ (café; fine view from the terrace). On the S. slope of the hill, ¼ M. from the Avenue Carnot and concealed amid the thick vegetation, is the _Mida_, the ruin of a mosque-court brought from the souks of the Medina. Farther up is the *_Pavillon de la Manouba_, a freely restored Moorish garden-pavilion from the Palais de la Manouba (pp. 342, 343), with fine ornamentation in stucco and a charming view. The top of the hill affords a splendid *Panorama, especially towards evening. To the S. is the old town with the Kasba, the Manoubia Hill, and Fort Sidi Bel-Hassen; more to the right, beyond the Sebkha es-Sedjoumi, rise the distant hills of Zaghouan; to the E. lies Lake Bahira with the island of Chikly, the Ship Canal, and the little towns of Goletta and Rades, backed by the Gulf of Tunis and Cape Bon; then, more to the N.E., rise the hills of Carthage, with the cathedral and Sidi Bou-Saïd; a little to the left, in the plain, lie La Marsa and the Sebkha er-Riana; to the W. are seen the Bardo and the two aqueducts. Adjoining the _Institut Pasteur_ (1904), on the N. side of the Rond-Point, is the entrance to the =Jardin d’Essais= (adm., see p. 331), opened in 1892, with many tropical and subtropical plants. Connected with it is the _Ecole Coloniale d’Agriculture_, founded in 1898. The tramway (No. 7) runs on through olive-groves to (3 M.) the village of _El-Ariana_, once famed for its Hafside palace of _Abu Fehr_, and now noteworthy for its beautiful roses. It is a favourite resort of the Jews of Tunis, especially on Saturday afternoons, when Jewish musicians and dancers perform at the cafés. =2.= A less extensive but more picturesque *View than that from the Belvedere is obtained from the hill, to the W. of the old town, on which lie the decayed Turkish forts of =Bordj Flifel= and =Bordj Rabta= (193 ft.). The shortest way to the hill is by the Rue Bab el-Allouch (Pl. B, 3; see tramway No. 3, p. 330) and through the gate of that name. We then follow the Bardo road (comp. p. 339), straight on, between the garden of the _Hôpital Civil_ (Pl. A, 3, 4), on the right, and the _Ecole Professionnelle Loubet_ (Pl. A, 4), a technical school, on the left. About 6 min. from the gate we diverge to the right by a field-road, and we reach the top in 6 min. more. Near the forts are numerous dilapidated _Silos_ (rabta), once the bey’s granaries. [Illustration: TUNIS et ses environs] The Bardo is about 1 M. farther on, but we now return to the crossroads (see above) and follow another road to the S., leaving the village of _Mélassine_ on the right, to the _Bab Sidi Abdallah_ (Pl. A, 5). Close to this gate is the _Château d’Eau_ or _Reservoir_ (Pl. A, B, 5; visitors admitted) of the waterworks of Tunis, which was substituted in 1859–62 for the Roman aqueduct of Carthage (p. 348). It is supplied by the main conduit from Zaghouan (p. 359), 58½ M. long, by an auxiliary branch from the Aïn Djouggar (1276 ft.), 23 M. distant, and (since 1905) by a new branch, 50 M. long, from Djebel Bargou, which flows partly through a tunnel 4 M. in length. =3.= The =Manoubia Hill= (240 ft.) may be reached in ¼ hr. by a road to the S. from the _Bab Sidi Kassem_ (Pl. A, 6), a town-gate 3 min. to the S. of the reservoir. Or we may start from the Place aux Chevaux (Pl. B, 6; p. 337), whence, near the _Collège Alaoui_ (seminary for teachers), we have a good view of the city and of Lake Bahira, and then follow the Rue Bab el-Gorjani (Pl. B, C, 7). The hill offers a fine view, especially in the morning, of the city, Lake Bahira, the hills of Carthage and Cape Bon; at our feet lies the Sebkha es-Sedjoumi; to the S. rise the hills of La Mohamédia and Oudna, backed by the jagged mountains of Zaghouan. =4.= From the _Bab Alleoua_ (Pl. E, 7; station of tramway No. 8, p. 330) diverge the roads to Rades (p. 363), Hammam-Lif (p. 363), and the Mornag (p. 358). We ascend across the _Cimetière Sidi Bel-Hassen_ (Pl. E, 7), the largest Mohammedan cemetery of Tunis, now desecrated and therefore open to ‘unbelievers’, to the (12 min.) _Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen_, where we enjoy a charming view of the city and Lake Bahira. The mosque, where many of the former beys’ wives are buried, stands on the site of a cavern which was for many years inhabited by the Moroccan saint Sidi Bel-Hassen ech-Chadly, the founder of the Chadlya brotherhood. The beautiful view from the top of the hill (240 ft.), a little apart from the small _Fort Sidi Bel-Hassen_, resembles that from the Manoubia Hill. =5.= The =Bardo=, the former winter-residence of the beys, lies in the fertile plain to the W. of Tunis, 1¼ M. from Bab Bou-Saâdoun (Pl. A, 2), and 2 M. from Bab el-Allouch (Pl. A, B, 3, 4; see p. 338) or from Bab Sidi Abdallah (Pl. A, 5). Starting from the Porte de France, we may go by tramway No. 3 (p. 330; 5 c.) to Place Bab-Souika, and thence by tramway No. 5 (15 c.) to the Bardo. About halfway we cross the _Aqueduc du Bardo_, originally Roman, a branch of the Carthage aqueduct (p. 348), restored by Andalusian Moors in the 16th century.—Those who prefer to go by carriage should drive out past the Reservoir (see above), and return round the N. side of the old town, past the _Feskia_ or _Ancien Réservoir_ (Pl. A, 1, 2; for rain-water) and the Mohammedan _Cimetière el-Bsili_ (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), to _Bab el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 2). During the Turkish period the Bardo, like the Moroccan palaces of the present day, formed a little town by itself. It included several palaces of the beys and of the widows of deceased princes, a treasury, dwellings of the court officials, a mosque, baths, barracks, and a prison (zendala), and the whole group was enclosed by a massive rectangular wall. Most of the sadly ruined buildings have been utilized since 1900 as material for the new harbour-works. At the S. end the outer wall has disappeared. From the tramway station we enter the pretty grounds (1903) to the right. Immediately to the left is the way to the remains of the chief palace of the beys, and beyond it, on the left, to the Museum. Straight ahead rises the ruin of a domed building; beyond it are the mosque and the prison (now a reformatory for natives). The =Palace of the Beys=, erected after 1782 by Hamuda Bey (p. 336), contains several objects of interest, apart from its tasteless European furniture and poor pictures. Adm., see p. 331. We enter by a flight of steps, adorned with marble lions of mediocre Italian workmanship, and through a vestibule with delicate decoration in stucco. The anterior colonnaded court is adjoined on the right by the hall of justice, where the beys used to pronounce sentences of death which were immediately carried out close by; opposite to it is the reception-room. A passage to the left brings us to a second colonnaded court. A tasteful marble portal (Italian) leads thence into the Salle des Glaces, which has a fine ceiling and a valuable Kairwan carpet. We then mount the staircase to the First Floor, where the large festal hall is on the right. The old _Palace of the Harem_, a creation of the extravagant bey Sidi Mohammed (1855–9), rivalling the Alcázar of Seville (p. 61) in its wealth of decoration, was carefully restored in 1885–1888 and converted into a national museum. The *=Musée du Bardo=, or _Musée Alaoui_, named after Bey Ali Pasha (1882–1902), containing the rich yield of excavations in every part of Tunisia, is now the finest collection in Barbary. The Moorish and Turkish antiquities were arranged in 1900 in a pretty little adjoining palace under the name of _Musée Arabe_. Adm., see p. 331; catalogue (1897) 10 fr., supplement (1906–10) 27 fr.; director, M. Merlin. =Ground Floor.= The ENTRANCE ROOM contains Roman mosaics from Henchir Sidi Djedidi, etc.; family tombstone of the imperial slave Optatus, from the burial-ground of the Officiales (p. 348). Also, on the right, votive stones from the temples of Saturn at Aïn-Tounga and on Jebel Bou-Kornin (p. 363), Roman milestones from the Tebessa road, etc.; on the left, Roman tomb-cippi and inscriptions. Then two altars bearing regulations in favour of farmers on the imperial estates: D441. from Henchir-Mettich near Testour (time of Trajan), and D 442. from Aïn-Ouassel (time of Septimius Severus); C 1030. Statue of Concordia from Djorf Bou-Grara (p. 392). At the end of the room, a much damaged Roman sarcophagus with the Muses.—On the right is— ROOM I (Pre-Roman Room). Along the walls are Punic and neo-Punic votive stones dedicated to Baal, Tanit (p. 356), and other deities; then tomb-stelæ, catapult-balls from an arsenal at Carthage, etc.—At the back-wall of the side-room is a stela from Maktar, nearly 7 ft. high, with a Libyan and neo-Punic inscription.—On the left of the Entrance Room is— ROOM III (Early-Christian Room). In the centre, B 53. Font from El-Kantara (p. 394). Along the walls are mosaics from Tabarca and other places, and sarcophagi. In the show-case, lamps and vessels in clay from Oudna (5–6th cent.).—In the passage to R. IV, terracotta slabs with reliefs, once the mural decoration of churches. ROOM IV (Bulla Regia Room), containing finds from Hammam-Darradji (p. 326): Roman sculptures of the time of Antoninus Pius (138–161), incl. C 1017. A Minerva Polias in the style of a Parthenos with the cornucopia of Bonus Eventus and a mural crown; *C 1018. Torso of Athena; C 1014. Æsculapius, after a Greek original of the 4th cent.; C 1013. Colossal statue of Apollo, after the school of Scopas; C 1015. Ceres; Roman inscriptions.—In the adjoining Room V, terracotta figures from the temples of Baal and Tanit at Bir Bou-Rekba. On the STAIRCASE, C 1033. Head of Hercules, Roman mosaics, etc.; on the upper landing, C 939. Statue of Apollo from the theatre at Carthage. =First Floor.= ROOM VI, the old inner court (patio) of the palace. In the centre are two large Roman mosaics from Oudna (2nd cent. A. D.): A 103. Bacchus presenting the vine to the Attic king Icarius (A 104. Hare and fox hunt, in front); A 105. Representation of a country estate, with hunting scenes. Between the columns of the portico are Roman statues in marble from Carthage (C 944. Ganymede; C 979. Bacchus; C 924. Juno; C 982. Isis; and others). Along the walls are marble busts and heads, most of them from Carthage.—Adjoining this room on the N. is— ROOM VII, formerly the banqueting-room, with superb *Dome carved in wood. In the centre, A 1 Mosaic pavement, about 150 sq. yds., from a Roman villa near Susa (‘Cortège de Neptune’). By the end-walls, A 25–27. Three semicircular mosaics from Tabarca (beginning of the 4th cent. A.D.) representing a country seat with park, stable, granary, sheds, and cellar. By the left side-wall are two Roman mosaics (A 7. Fishing; A 12. Head of Oceanus); A 19. Early-Christian relief with circus-scenes; old Christian *Sarcophagus Mosaics from Tabarca, mostly representing the deceased in the attitude of prayer, between two candles. The wall-presses contain Punic, Rhodian, Roman, and early-Christian lamps. By the back-wall are Roman pottery, and implements in bronze, ivory, and bone. Also a fine bust of Athena from Carthage.—Next comes— ROOM VIII. In the centre, bronze armour of Campanian origin (end of 3rd cent. B.C.), found in a Punic tomb at Ksour-Essaf (p. 370): *E 3. A silver-gilt patera (sacrificial bowl) from Bizerta, weighing nearly 24 lbs., with reliefs (contest of Apollo and Marsyas, sacrifice to Dionysus, Bacchic scene).—In the side-cases are gold trinkets and cut gems, mostly from Carthage. In the window-cases are Mauretanian, Roman, and Byzantine coins. Along the walls are Roman mosaics from Dougga and from *Chebba (A 292. Neptune and the Four Seasons; A 293. Orpheus among the animals); C 1115. The Graces and the Four Seasons (front of a fine marble sarcophagus). ROOM IX. In the centre, A 287. The Procession of Bacchus, a large mosaic from El-Djem. Along the walls are Roman mosaics from El-Djem (A 288. Hare-hunt; A 289. Nine Muses; etc.), from Thina (Thænæ), from Susa (A 6. Boat with quaint representation of the water), and from Djorf Bou-Grara (A 301, A 301 bis. Wrestlers). In the corners, C 1026. Torso of a draped woman, perhaps a Victoria, in black marble; C 72. Head of Augustus; C 1027. Head of Hercules (all from El-Djem). In the press on the left, three leaden urns and six admirably preserved glass cinerary urns from the burial-ground of the Officiales at Carthage (p. 348). In the press on the right, bronze utensils. In the wall-cases, leaden and bronze objects from Carthage and Hammam Darradji; also so-called ‘tabellæ defixionum’, rolls of lead with curses directed against enemies in the circus (found in tombs at Susa). Detached, C 16. Torso of a Bacchante from El-Djem.—We return to R. VI and thence, to the left, enter— ROOM XI, formerly the concert-room, containing Roman mosaics. In the centre, A 166. Mosaic pavement from Medeïna, showing the different kinds of Roman trading vessels; also the heads of a river-god and of Oceanus. By the entrance-wall, A 171. Temple (containing statues of Apollo and Diana, and hunting scenes) from Carthage. By the wall opposite, A 162. A seriously damaged representation of a banquet (4th cent. A.D.) from Carthage.—The opposite— ROOM XII was formerly the dining-room. The presses contain relics from Punic tombs (some of them imported, Egyptian, Greek, and Etruscan). In the two central cases, terracotta-masks (to avert evil spirits), which also were among the objects buried with the dead.—A door on the same (W.) side of R. VI as that to R. XII gives access to three rooms (XIV-XVI) containing objects discovered at the bottom of the sea near Mehdia (see p. 370) in 1907–10. ROOM XIV. A bronze *Hermes of Dionysus, in an archaic style, by Boëthus of Chalcedon (according to the inscription; 2nd cent. B.C.). On a shelf are remains of a large bronze capital with two female heads. In the glass-cases are two bronze lamps with the figure of a runner; numerous bronze statuettes, among others an Eros playing a lyre, two female dancers, a buffoon, Satyr, and actors; bronze utensils. ROOM XV. In the centre, a bronze *Statue of a winged Eros (4½ ft. high). Along the walls, a leaden anchor; terracotta amphoræ, bars of lead with stamps in Latin, flour-mills; in the glass-case, a terracotta lamp with its wick still preserved. ROOM XVI (marble objects). Large mixing bowls (‘crateræ’), adorned with Bacchic subjects; candelabra in the neo-Attic style; capitals; Greek inscriptions; busts and heads, among which should be noted, in the middle, a well-preserved Aphrodite; torsos and statuettes. We return to R. VI and descend five steps into— ROOM XIII, an octagonal *Domed Chamber (formerly the bey’s bedroom), with four side-rooms richly adorned with stucco and tiles (once occupied by his four favourite wives). In the centre, A 10. Roman mosaic from Bir-Chana, with the gods of the seven days of the week and the signs of the zodiac. In the right wing, *A 266. Roman mosaic from Susa, Virgil writing the Æneid. In the wing opposite the entrance, C 4. Torso of a Satyr pouring out wine (after Praxiteles). In the left wing, *C 969. Ceres, from Carthage, with traces of painting; also C 970, C 971. Two draped female statues.—In the corner-room on the right, without number, Large alabaster vase from Carthage with haut-relief (head of Bacchus with vine-wreath).—In the corner-room on the left are terracotta figurines from Susa. In the GALLERY of R. VI (p. 341) are a relief-map of Carthage, models of buildings in Carthage, Dougga, Le Kef, Oudna, Sbeïtla, and Djorf Bou-Grara; also photographs of Tunisian monuments. From the staircase (p. 341) we enter the =Musée Arabe=. In ROOM I, tastefully decorated in stucco, are mural tiles from Tunis, Nabeul (p. 365), and Morocco, and knotted carpets from Kairwan. The side-rooms contain metal-work, enamelled vessels, wood-carving, weapons, etc. In the COURT (patio) are mural tiles; in the small side-rooms on the left, costumed figures, national garbs, and models in stucco. In ROOM II, furniture (incl. a sumptuous bed) and embroidery (incl. haïtis, velvet hangings with gold and silver embroidery). In the side-rooms are Tunisian (from Djerba and Moknine) and Algerian trinkets; also beautiful Kairwan carpets. Behind the Bardo is =Kassar-Saïd=, a château of the bey (no admittance). Here, in 1881, was concluded the Bardo Treaty, which ended the independence of Tunisia. The highroad goes on, past the _Hippodrome of Kassar-Saïd_ (races in spring), to (2½ M.) =La Manouba= (rail. station, see p. 329; tramway No. 5, see p. 330), a group of decayed Moorish country-houses with fine orange-gardens. The _Palais de la Manouba_ (now cavalry-barracks) was once the country-seat of Hamuda Bey (p. 336). The kubba of _Lalla Manouba_ attracts many pilgrims. [Illustration: CARTHAGE] From Tunis to _Dougga_, see R. 55; to _Zaghouan_, _Le Kef_, and _Kalaâ-Djerda_, see R. 56; to _Rades_, _Hammam Lif_, and _Susa_, see R. 57; to _Bizerta_, see R. 54; to _Malta_, see R. 63; to _Tripoli_ (_Syracuse_), see R. 64. 53. Carthage. An ELECTRIC TRAMWAY starts from Tunis Terminus, Ave. Jules-Ferry (Pl. E, 4), near the Casino, for Carthage and (¾ hr.) Marsa-Plage. The chief stations on this line are _La Goulette_, for the little town of Goletta; _Carthage_, for the castle-hill (St. Louis de Carthage), for the plateau of the Odéon, and for the cisterns at the Bordj el-Djedid; _Ste. Monique_, for Damous el-Karita; and _Sidi Bou-Saïd_, for the lighthouse. The terminus, _Marsa-Plage_, close to the shore, is connected by a branch-line (½ M.) with _Marsa-Ville_, which is the terminus of another electric tramway running from the Ave. de Paris (Pl. E, 3) at Tunis viâ El-Aouina.—Uniform fares from Tunis to Goletta, Carthage, Marsa-Plage, or Marsa-Ville single 1 fr. 20 or 65 c., return 1 fr. 75 c. or 1 fr. A DRIVE (carr. 15 fr.) from Tunis to Sidi-Daoud, La Malga (amphitheatre and cisterns), La Marsa, Sidi Bou-Saïd, Carthage (cisterns at Bordj el-Djedid, theatre, and museum), Goletta, Maxula-Rades (p. 363), and back to Tunis is recommended. Luncheon (brought from Tunis) may be taken beside the lighthouse at Sidi Bou-Saïd or at Carthage. Good carriages are to be had also at Goletta and the stations of Carthage and Marsa-Ville (2 fr. per hr.; but the fare should be fixed beforehand).—In cool weather, especially in the forenoon, the WALK from La Marsa viâ Sidi Bou-Saïd to Carthage is very enjoyable. HOTELS at Carthage: _Hôt. St. Louis de Carthage_, on the castle-hill, tolerable, déj. or D. 3–3½ fr., wine dear; _Pavillon Beau-Séjour_, R. 3, B. 1¼, déj. 2½, D. 3 fr.; _Hôt. des Citernes Romaines_, near the cisterns of Bordj el-Djedid (p. 350), plain but good. For a short visit to the ruins the following description will suffice. For further study the traveller is referred to the Carte archéologique et topographique des Ruines de Carthage (Paris, 1907; three sheets, scale 1 : 5000) and to ‘Carthage autrefois, Carthage aujourd’hui’ (2½ fr.; to be had at the Musée Lavigerie), a full description, but partly out of date. Comp. also the chapters on Carthage in _Cagnat’s_ book mentioned at p. 289.—The guides and beggars are very importunate. Native vendors offer spurious antiquities (cameos, coins, etc.), ‘just dug up’. It should be noted that the ruins abound in awkward cavities and fissures, and that, in summer especially, scorpions lurk under the loose stones. The ELECTRIC TRAMWAY (see above) to Carthage and Marsa-Plage runs to the _Harbour_ (p. 333), crosses its N. entrance by an embankment, and follows the N. bank of the ship-canal across Lake Bahira (comp. p. 129), skirting the passing-place of the steamers. On the left is the islet of _Chikly_ (p. 129). 6¼ M. _Arrêt du Bac_, station for the Goletta steam-ferry mentioned at p. 363.—7 M. _La Goulette_, on the W. side of the little town of— =Goletta=, or _La Goulette_ (Hôt. de la Gare, unpretending; pop. 5000, chiefly Sicilian and Maltese fisher-folk), the former little harbour of Tunis, deserted since the opening of the ship-canal. It was strongly fortified by Kheireddin (p. 221) in 1534 and transformed into a great naval station, but was soon captured by the Spaniards and formed the base whence they kept Tunis in check (1535–74). On the island between the ship-canal and the two narrow inlets to the harbour are the _Dâr el-Bey_, an old palace of the beys, and the disused _Marine Arsenal_ founded by Ahmed Bey (1837–55). On the shore, beyond the old harbour-mouth, which is only 6½ ft. deep, rises the _Kasba_, now barracks. From Goletta to Maxula-Rades, see p. 363. Between old Goletta and the ancient harbour of Carthage stretches a tongue of land, the ancient _Taenia_ or _Ligula_, between Lake Bahira and the open sea, where bathing-places abound: 7¼ M. _La Goulette Neuve_, with a long row of humble lodging-houses, chiefly patronized by the poorer Jewish families from Tunis; 8 M. _Khéreddine_, where the old palace of Khéreddine, once the all-powerful minister of Bey Mohammed es-Saddok (1859–82), is now a casino; 9 M. _Le Kram_, another favourite Jewish resort, on the small _Baie du Kram_. The next station is (9¾ M.) _Salambo_, a new colony of villas named after Flaubert’s novel; near it is the ‘_Lazaret_‘, an old palace of the beys’ harem, on the shore, between the two ancient harbours of Carthage (p. 345), used as a cholera hospital in 1884 (now barracks). 10 M. _Douar ech-Chott_, on the E. side of this picturesque native village (comp. p. 345). 10¼ M. _Dermèche_, station for _El-Kheraïb_ (‘the ruins’), supposed to have been once the market-place of Carthage (p. 345), on the S. side of the Kothon, and also for the _Palais de Dermèche_, once the palace of the minister Mustapha ben-Ismaïl, and now the property of the bey. 10½ M. =Carthage= (hotels, see p. 343), station for the road to the castle-hill and abbey-hill of Carthage (pp. 346, 349). 11¼ M. _Ste. Monique_, between the convent of that name on the right and Damous el-Karita (p. 349) on the left. Passing _Briqueterie_, we ascend to (13 M.) _Sidi Bou-Saïd_ (p. 351). 13¾ M. _Arrêt de l’Archevêché_, for the archiepiscopal palace; _Arrêt de la Corniche_, the last halt. We then descend to the N.W. to (14½ M.) _La Marsa-Plage_ (p. 351). * * * * * =Carthage=, once the proud queen of the seas, lay 10 M. to the E. of Tunis on a low range of hills culminating in _Cape Carthage_ (p. 351). The cape was originally an island, but was probably united with the mainland by the deposits of the Medjerda before the foundation of the city (comp. p. 129). The neck of land between Lake Bahira on the S. and the _Sebkha er-Riana_ on the N., where the army of Regulus was annihilated in 255 and where Scipio encamped in 146, was, according to Polybius, only 3000 paces (ca. 1½ M.) wide, but is now 3 M. at the narrowest part. In the middle ages Douar ech-Chott (p. 344; ‘village on the salt-lake’) lay on Lake Bahira. Carthage possessed two harbours. The outer or commercial harbour lay between the Baie du Kram (p. 344) and Bordj el-Djedid (p. 350), where considerable remains of its quays are preserved for a distance of nearly a mile. The inner or naval harbour (Kothon) was an artificial inland basin, probably on the same site as the two modern lagoons, with a rectangular entrance-basin and a circular main harbour. On an islet in the latter lay the naval arsenal. Between the two harbours ran the triple town-wall, which on one side extended from the Bordj el-Djedid to the plateau between the Odeon and Damous el-Karita (p. 349), and on the other side enclosed the castle-hill (see below) on the S. and W. sides. The market-place (p. 344), on the N. side of the naval harbour, was connected with the castle-hill by three narrow streets, the chief scene of contest during the storming by Scipio. To the N.W. of the city-wall, as early as the Punic period, lay the villa-suburb of _Megara_ or _Magalia_ (now La Malga). HISTORY. Carthage was founded about 880 B. C. by Phœnicians from Tyre, under the leadership, according to tradition, of Dido, adjacent to _Kambe_, a colony from Sidon. Under the name of _Kart-hadasht_ (‘new town’) it extended gradually from the dale on the N.E. side of the Bordj el-Djedid up to the castle-hill. Thanks to its most advantageous site near the Sicilian straits and on the sea-route between Egypt and Spain, and to its proximity to the valleys of the Medjerda and the Oued Miliane (p. 363), the richest in the land, it soon surpassed Utica (p. 353) and the smaller Phœnician seaports in wealth and power. From the 6th cent. onwards Carthaginian fleets contended with the Greeks and with the Etruscans, from whom they wrested Corsica and Sardinia, for the mastery of the W. Mediterranean, and in 480 their army of mercenaries, in alliance with Xerxes, even attacked the Greeks of Sicily. After a great struggle of more than two centuries for the possession of Sicily, during which Agathocles (p. 163) carried the war into his enemies’ country (310–307), the intervention of Rome led to the three Punic wars (264–241, 218–201, and 149–146), to the occupation of Spain by the Carthaginians, and to the capture and destruction of Carthage, after a heroic resistance, by Scipio in 146 B. C. On its ruins, in 122, C. Gracchus attempted to found a Roman colony, but it was not till the year 44 that the far-seeing policy of Cæsar led to the firm establishment of the _Colonia Julia Carthago_. The despatch by Augustus of a colony of veterans and the erection of the city into the capital of the province in place of Utica (29 B. C.) paved the way for the renewed glory of Carthage, which soon became the greatest Mediterranean seaport next to Alexandria and the third-greatest city in the Roman empire. Far and wide its schools of rhetoric and philosophy were famous. Passionate champions of Christianity, like Tertullian (160 to about 245), founder of the sect called after him, and Cyprian (d. 258), who protested against the claim of Rome to precedence in the church, were residents in Carthage, the chief bishopric in N. Africa. In numerous councils (from 393 onwards) the dogmas of the Catholic church were here discussed and settled, and at the synod of the Gargilian Thermæ in 411 St. Augustine with fiery eloquence combated the doctrines of the Donatists (p. 322) and the Tertullianists. Genseric (p. 322) converted the old palace of the proconsuls into his royal residence and made Carthage the capital of the Vandal empire, and a little later the city became the residence of the Byzantine governors. After Hassan ibn en-Nôman (p. 322) had destroyed the city in 698, almost as completely as Scipio had done, and after he had even caused the harbours to be filled up, the ruins were used for centuries as a quarry for the building of Kairwan (p. 372), Tunis, Goletta, and the small towns around, while many of the Roman and Byzantine columns were carried off by the Moors to Cordova and by the Italians to Palermo, Amalfi, Pisa, and Genoa. The attempts of the Hafsides (p. 323) to resuscitate Carthage met with little success. To that dynasty belonged El-Mostanser-Billah, against whom Louis IX., the Saint, directed his last crusade. It was on the castle-hill of Carthage that Louis died of the plague in 1270, and it was from Carthage that Emp. Charles V. led his expedition against Tunis in 1535. Modern builders have again been busy, at the cost of the ancient ruins, since the time of Card. Lavigerie (1825–92), who made the Missions d’Afrique (see below) the centre of the catholic missions in N. Africa and succeeded in 1884 in obtaining the restoration of the old archbishopric. After all this endless havoc, and owing to constant alterations in the earth’s surface, it is now very difficult to trace the plan either of the Punic or of the Roman Carthage, which seems to have been laid out in chessboard fashion. Yet the beauty of the scenery and the wealth of historical memories amply compensates for the deplorable state of the ruins. The valuable yield of recent excavations is now preserved in the Musée Lavigerie (see below), in the Bardo Museum (p. 340), and in the Louvre. The =Byrsa= (194 ft.), the ancient castle-hill of Carthage, 660 yds. from the sea, was the site in the Punic period of a temple of Eshmun, and in the Roman period of a temple of Æsculapius and of the palace of the proconsul. It is now called the _Colline de St. Louis de Carthage_ and is occupied by the chapel of St. Louis, the seminary, and the archiepiscopal cathedral. The terrace on the side next the sea, adjoining the Hôtel St. Louis de Carthage (p. 343), commands a delightful *View of the gulf of Tunis and the site of ancient Carthage. The _Grand Séminaire de Carthage_, founded in 1875 by Card. Lavigerie as a mission-house and seminary for the Pères Missionnaires d’Afrique (commonly called Pères Blancs from their white semi-Arab garb), contains the *=Musée Lavigerie=, dating from 1875, where the yield of the excavations made by Père Delattre, the learned principal of the seminary, is preserved. Adm. on Mon., Thurs., Frid., and Sat., 2 to 5.30; on Sun. and holidays 2–3 and 4 to 5.30; probably also before 11, and on other afternoons, on application (closed in Holy Week after Wed.). Visitors make a donation to the offertory-box. No catalogue. In the SEMINARY GARDEN, below the small _Chapelle de St. Louis_, built in 1845 to the memory of King Louis the Saint (see above), are preserved eight barrel-vaults, with semicircular niches, relics of some ancient edifice of unknown character. On the terrace in front of the chapel is a large Roman sarcophagus in marble. Around it are placed numerous Punic cinerary urns. In the grounds lie fragments of ancient buildings. Along the garden-walls are ranged Roman mosaics, inscriptions, and fragments of sculpture. The COLONNADE of the seminary is adorned with three colossal figures of Victory in high-relief, of the time of the proconsul Q. Aurelius Symmachus (373–5), one of the last champions of expiring paganism.—The VESTIBULE contains two sadly mutilated early-Christian reliefs, the Annunciation to the Shepherds and the Adoration of the Magi, from Damous el-Karita (p. 349).—To the left, in the SALLE DE LA CROISADE, are Punic, Roman, and early-Christian inscriptions.—On the right is the— PUNIC ROOM, containing the most valuable collection, almost exclusively from Punic rock-tombs (8th–2nd cent. B.C.), unrivalled except in the museum of Iviza. In the 1st Case in the middle of the room are Egyptian scarabs and amulets, trinkets (some Egyptian), and weights. 2nd Case: lamps and vases in clay, gold trinkets, beautiful Greek ivory carving (swan bearing a goddess), an Etruscan inscription (the only one yet found in Africa), Egyptian signet-rings, etc. 3rd Case: necklaces composed of amulets, glass amulets with faces of iridescent glass, gold signet-rings with engraved figures, fragments of painted ostrich-eggs, toilet articles in lead, Cupid in terracotta resembling the Tanagra figurines, a Greek work. 4th Case: bronze mirrors and ‘little axes’ or razors, probably amulets.—In the wall-presses, on the left of the entrance, Punic vases and terracotta masks, iron and bronze weapons. By the left side-wall are statuettes in clay in the Egyptian and Cyprian style, Corinthian and Attic vases, an Etruscan vase (toilet scene), two bronze jugs with fine figures as handles. By the back-wall are terracottas.—At the end of the right side-wall, in the window-niche, cinerary urn of the priest Baalchelek, also that of another priest with a beautiful relief of the deceased. By the last window but one, on the right side, are five cinerary urns; in front of them stands a sarcophagus with two skeletons. Then, at the end of the room, are four anthropoid *Sarcophagi in the Greek style (end of 4th cent. B.C.); two bearded priests in the attitude of prayer (one of them a cast); a priestess, with remarkably well-preserved painting, holding a dove and a situla. Lastly we enter the ROMAN-CHRISTIAN ROOM from the garden. By the end-wall on the left are early-Christian mosaics and lamps. By the back-wall, Roman mosaics (incl. Autumn and Winter); marble sculptures (Ceres, bust of Apollo, etc.). By the right end-wall are Roman terracottas, *Lamps with figure-compositions, and three reliefs in stucco from the tomb of a lady of rank. By the entrance-wall, Roman and Byzantine weights.—The 1st Case in the middle of the room contains early-Christian relics from the abbey-hill (p. 349), mostly of the Vandal period. 2nd Case: a bronze lamp and the clay statuette of an organ-player (upper part broken off). 3rd Case: Roman bronzes and glasses; rolls of lead inscribed with curses, from the burial-ground of the Officiales (p. 348); Byzantine and mediæval coins. 4th Case: coins of the Phœnician down to the Byzantine periods. The =Cathedral= (_Primatiale de St. Cyprien et de St. Louis_), a basilica with nave and two aisles, built in 1884–90 by _Abbé Pougnet_, in the Byzantine-Moorish style, contains (in the choir) the archiepiscopal throne and the tomb of Card. Lavigerie (p. 346). Over the high-altar is the valuable reliquary of St. Louis, executed by Armand Caillat, a goldsmith of Lyons. Adm. from 5 to 11.15 and 12.30 to 5.30 (in summer 6.45). The limestone blocks on the S.W. side of the cathedral, near the small eucalyptus grove, are remains of the stylobate of a _Roman Temple_. From the brow of the hill we obtain a good survey of the site of the ancient naval harbour (p. 345) and of the Roman circus (see below). The view of Lake Bahira is charming at sunset. Between the brow of the hill and the road descending to Douar ech-Chott (p. 344) Père Delattre’s excavations have brought to light a number of buildings a thousand years apart in date. Above, on the margin of the hill, is an interesting _Punic Necropolis_ with rock-tombs; lower down are remains of the _Town Walls_, hastily restored under Theodosius II. (p. 541) in 424, and traces of the _Roman Road_ leading to the harbour; then Punic tombs again, and below them the foundations of a _Byzantine Dwelling House_ (a room here contains early-Moorish tombs). Below the S. angle of the castle-hill we come upon ancient fortifications. Farther down is a wall or buttress composed of thousands of early-Roman earthenware amphoræ; also a rock-hewn _Chapel_ (key at the Seminary) with remains of wall-paintings (saint bestowing a blessing) in the style of the catacomb frescoes. Time permitting, we follow the Sidi-Daoud road to the N.W. from the castle-hill, cross the Goletta and La Marsa highroad, and reach (¼ hr.) the Roman =Amphitheatre=, which has been broken up only since the 16th cent., and which Edrisi, the geographer (1154), has described as one of almost matchless splendour. All that is left of it consists of a few remains of substructures deeply imbedded in rubbish, several underground passages, and in the centre of the arena (where a chapel with a cross recalls the martyrs Perpetua and Felicitas, p. 350) three underground chambers, probably for the machinery used in theatrical performances. To the S., not far from Douar ech-Chott (p. 344), are a few vestiges of the Roman _Circus_. It measured 770 by 110 yds.; the Spina, or partition round which the racing chariots passed, was 380 yds. long. Scarcely a hundred paces to the N.W. of the amphitheatre, near a farm-building, is a _Burial Ground of the Officiales_ (1st–2nd cent.), the imperial freedmen and slaves employed in the proconsul’s office (tabularium).—Beyond the amphitheatre the road passes a second _Burial Ground_ of the same kind on the right and the foundations of the _Villa of Scorpianus_ (identified by the inscription ‘Scorpianus in adamatu’) on the left. To the W. of the highroad, 12 min. from the castle-hill, lies the dirty village of =La Malga= (82 ft.), which swarms with begging children. On the N.E. side of the village are scanty ruins of Roman _Thermae_. The CISTERNS in the middle of the village, 15 (originally 24) barrel-vaults now in a very ruinous condition and partly used by the natives as dwellings or stables, once formed the chief reservoir fed by the _Roman Aqueduct_ (pp. 329, 353, 358), begun under Hadrian in 117, but not completed till 163. The whole city was supplied thence by means of leaden pipes. A _Roman Road_ leads almost in a straight line from La Malga, to the N.E., close past Damous el-Karita (p. 349) and past the Basilica Maiorum (p. 350), to the Arrêt de la Briqueterie (p. 344). From La Malga we follow the road to the S.E., past the _Croix de St. Cyprien_, a memorial of the famous bishop (pp. 345, 346), along the course of the old ‘Conduit Souterrain’, to the =Abbey Hill= (171 ft.), often groundlessly called _Colline de Junon_, rising to the N.E. of the castle-hill. Here are situated the _Monastère du Carmel_, a Carmelite nunnery, and the _Petit Séminaire_, the original mission-house of the White Fathers, now an orphanage presided over by the Sœurs Missionnaires d’Afrique, a sisterhood also instituted by Card. Lavigerie. On the roadside, between these buildings, remains of _Roman Houses_ and _Cisterns_ have been excavated. On the slope of the =Odeon Plateau= (181 ft.), the N.E. continuation of the abbey-hill, near the bridge of the electric tramway, and 3 min. to the left of the upper Carthage and Sidi Bou-Saïd road (p. 350), are relics of the _Roman Theatre_, including several rows of the seats of the cavea (p. 293) and parts of the stage-building. After the partial restoration of the theatre a grand performance took place here in 1908 and similar representations will be occasionally repeated.—A few paces to the S.W. of the stage we come to the foundations of a small Roman _Temple Circulaire_. To the N.E. of the theatre, on the S.E. slope of the plateau, are the more considerable remains of _Roman Houses_, but these have recently been threatened with demolition. On the plateau itself, about a hundred paces above the theatre, in the midst of a _Punic Necropolis_ (3rd cent. B.C.), are relics of pavement and several underground passages marking the site of the _Odeon_, a roofed theatre (theatrum tectum) for concerts, built under the proconsul Vigellius Saturninus (about 212 A.D.). Both the theatre and the odeon are said to have been destroyed by the Vandals in 439. Outside the old town-wall (p. 345), about 135 yds. to the N. of the Odeon, and 3 min. to the W. of station Ste. Monique (p. 344), lies an extensive early-Christian cemetery, in the centre of which lie the ruins of =Damous el-Karita= (domus caritatis?), a great basilica. This church, 71 by 49 yds., was built at different periods. The oldest basilica with its ten aisles (4th cent.) was orientated to the S.E., and the second, with eight aisles, probably of the Vandal period, was turned towards the S.W. A third building, again with ten aisles, evidenced by its reduced size the decline of Carthage in the Byzantine period, as it consisted only of the old transept converted into a nave and of the four N.W. aisles of the second basilica. Within the oldest nave, in the axis of the first choir-recess, a new apse was erected. The =⟙=-shaped building thus resulting, with its very short and many-aisled body, seems to have been the model on which Hassan ibn en-Nôman built the Kairwan mosque, as well as the source of much of its material (comp. pp. 374, 376). Adjoining the basilica on the N.E. is a vast semicircular _Atrium_ (see p. 316), belonging to one of the two earlier churches, with remains of the fountain of purification and of a trefoil-shaped memorial-chapel (comp. p. 317) built into the colonnade. On the S.W. side of the basilica lie the foundations of a _Baptistery_ with an octagonal font. On the outskirts of a small olive-grove, reached either across the fields from Damous el-Karita (in 8 min.) or to the W. from the Arrêt de la Briqueterie (2 min.; p. 344), is the =Basilica Maiorum=, excavated in 1907. In the Vandal period this was the church of the Arian bishop. In the Confessio (10½ by 10¼ ft.), according to an inscription, the martyrs Perpetua and Felicitas (d. 203; see also below and p. 348) were buried. In the contiguous early-Christian cemetery bishops’ tombs and a cistern have been discovered. We conclude our visit with a glance at the ruins in the PLAIN by the sea. On the slope of the Odeon plateau, between the two roads to Sidi Bou-Saïd, extends a large =Punic Necropolis= (_Nécropole de Douïmès_), containing many rock-tombs of the 7–5th centuries. Near it are remains of _Punic Pottery Kilns_ and the foundations of the _Basilica of Dermèche_, a Byzantine church with double aisles and traces of a baptistery with its octagonal font. A few paces to the N. we come to a _Roman Cistern_, 85 ft. deep, and vestiges of an _Early Christian Monastery_ (St. Stephen’s?). Close by are the *=Cisterns of Bordj el-Djedid=, on a side-branch of the lower road, the largest in the ancient city after those of La Malga, whence they were supplied. They were restored in 1887 and utilized for the new waterworks of Tunis (p. 339). The building, once dreaded by the natives as the ‘devil’s cavern’ (Douames ech-Chiatinn), forms a rectangle of 147 by 44 yds., with seventeen parallel barrel-vaults of 33 by 8 yds., two filtering basins, and broad side-passages (keeper ½ fr.). Close to the sea, a little to the S.E., perhaps on the site of the harbour of Kambe (p. 345), lie the shapeless ruins of the =Thermes d’Antonin=, or _Baths of Dermèche_, re-erected under Antoninus Pius about 145, once perhaps the largest at Carthage. Between the baths and the ruinous Turkish fort _Bordj el-Djedid_ (49 ft.) lie the foundations of the superb _Roman Stairs_ (Escalier Monumental) which once ascended from the quay to the Platea Nova, one of the largest squares in Roman Carthage. Their marble blocks were used in the building of the cathedral in 1884. An underground Roman building, with a flight of twenty-five steps, to the N.E. of the Bordj el-Djedid, formerly called Fanum Cereris, but now termed _Carcer Castrensis_, is said to have been the prison of the martyrs Perpetua and Felicitas (see above).—Near it is a _Roman Tower_ resembling a bastion, half in the sea. On the new road from Bordj el-Djedid to station Ste. Monique (p. 344) is the ‘_Kubba Bent el-Re_‘, a number of underground chambers of unknown object, formerly called ‘Baths of Dido’. A picturesque rock-path skirting the abrupt coast, besides the two roads named on p. 350, leads from Carthage to =Sidi Bou-Saïd=, about 2¼ M. from the Byrsa. This wealthy and highly picturesque village, almost entirely Mohammedan, with the bey’s summer residence, a fine beach for bathing, and the shrine of the local saint (much frequented on Fridays), lies at the E. end of _Cape Carthage_ or _Cartagena_ (423 ft.; Arabic _Râs Sluguia_), which has kept its Punic name throughout the ages. From the entrance to the village (station and cab-stand) we ascend straight to a small square with several Arab cafés, then by a path in steps to the left, again to the left, and lastly to the right, to the round lighthouse (_Phare_; ½–1 fr.). From the top we enjoy an exquisite *View, which is finest by morning light, of the site of Carthage, the whole of the bay stretching to Cape Farina (p. 129), and Lake Bahira with its mountain background. From the lighthouse a beautiful path leads past the _Poste Optique_ and behind the vineyards of the _Archiepiscopal Palace_, to the Arrêt de la Corniche (p. 344) and (½ hr.) =La Marsa= (Hôt. de la Régence), a village in the fertile plain between Cape Carthage and Jebel Khaoui (see below), with many country-houses and a bathing beach (dangerous currents). About halfway between the two stations (p. 343) is the _Palais du Bey_, where the present prince (p. 323) usually resides. (Adm. to the stables only, containing the state-carriages; fee 1 fr.) To the N.W. of La Marsa extends =Jebel Khaoui= or _Kraoui_ (345 ft.; ascent from La Marsa and back viâ Kamart ca. 2½ hrs.). On the top and the N. slope are many rock-tombs, remains of the _Jewish Necropolis_ of Roman Carthage. Fine view, to the S. to Tunis, and to the N.W. over the _Sebkha er-Riana_ to the Medjerda delta as far as Utica (p. 353). On the N. side of the hill, on the reddish _Cape Kamart_, lies the picturesque, palm-girt village of _Kamart_, with the ruined _Bordj Ben-Aïed_. 54. From Tunis to Bizerta. 61 M. RAILWAY. Express on Wed. only (back on Sat.), corresponding with the steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (R. 21), in 2½, ordinary trains in 2½–3¾ hrs. (11 fr., 8 fr. 35, 5 fr. 90 c.).—The HIGH ROAD (37½ M.) is recommended in the cool season only, as the Medjerda flats are malarious. From Tunis to (15 M.) _Djedeïda_, see p. 329. The train diverges here to the N. from the main line to Algeria. 19 M. _Chaouat_; 24 M. _Sidi-Athman_, near the _Garaa Mabtouha_, backed by the offshoots of _Jebel Kechbata_ (p. 354). We then run through hilly country, to the W., to (31 M.) _Aïn-Rhelal_. 40½ M. =Mateur= (Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. de France, etc.; pop. 5000, incl. 1600 Italians), a small town nearly 1 M. from the station, lies pleasantly on a hill beyond the influx of the _Oued Tine_ into the _Oued Jemine_ or _Joumine_, and is still enclosed by its old walls, built partly out of the ruins of the Roman _Oppidum Matarense_. It is the corn and cattle market for the fertile _Plaines de Mateur_, which were densely peopled in ancient times, and for the Berber tribes of the _Bejaoua_ and _Mogod Mts._ A railway runs from Mateur viâ (17 M.) _Jefna_, in the Nefza Mts., to _Djebel-Abiod_ (p. 328), whence it is being extended to _Tabarca_ (p. 327).—Another line connects Mateur with _Béja_ (p. 328). The train crosses the plain, to the N., towards the _Garaet Ichkeul_ or _Achkel_, the _Sisara Lacus_ of the ancients, a freshwater-lake abounding in fish, but very shallow and rapidly filling up. On the S. side is a marshy tract where within the last few decades a large herd of half-wild Italian buffaloes has sprung up. Above it towers _Jebel Ichkeul_ (1667 ft.), noted for its marble, the chief landmark of the bay of Bizerta. 50 M. _Oued-Tindja_ (Hôt. de la Gare) lies on the strip of land, barely 2 M. broad, between Lake Ichkeul and the =Lac de Bizerte= (Arabic _Garaet Tindja_). The latter, the ancient _Lacus Hipponensis_, ca. 30,000 acres in area and 40 ft. deep at places, is now the chief French naval harbour on the Mediterranean next to Toulon. A strategic railway and a road (omn. 20 c.) lead to the E. from Oued-Tindja to (2 M.) =Ferryville= (Hôt. de l’Amirauté; Hôt. de l’Arsenal; pop. 3000, largely Italian dock-labourers), the youngest town in Tunisia, named after Jules Ferry (p. 333), and to (2¾ M.) the small bay of _Sidi-Abdallah_, on which, 9½ M. from the open sea, a _Naval Arsenal_, with five large dry-docks, was built in 1899–1908. The train crosses the _Oued Tindja_, the sinuous effluent of Lake Ichkeul, and rounds the marshy W. bank of Lake Bizerta. 55½ M. _Sidi-Ahmed_, opposite _Djezira el-Kebira_, the largest island in the lake. 59 M. _La Pêcherie_, on the _Goulet_, a narrow arm of the sea to the N., which, with the new harbour-canal (p. 353), connects the dockyard with the open sea. On the small _Baie Ponty_, now used as a torpedo-boat station, rise the _Arsenal de la Défense-Mobile_ and the handsome _Amirauté_. A road leads to the S. from the station through olive-woods to (½ M.) the =Barrage des Pêcheries=, two fish-dams about 1000 yds. long, adjoining the S.W. end of the Goulet (here 55 yds. across), where the fish descending from the lakes to spawn in the sea are caught in great numbers. The yield, a few years ago ca. 580 tons, but now much reduced, is sent to Tunis and Marseilles. We pass the _Baie de Sebra_, the inner harbour of Bizerta, as yet little used, and the _Artillery Arsenal_, intersect the new S. wall of the town and the garden-suburb of _Bijouville_, and reach the station of (61 M.) _Bizerta_, on the harbour-canal. =Bizerta.=—_Railway Restaurant._—HOTELS (comp. p. 324). *_Grand-Hotel_, Place d’Europe, in an open site near the station, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 10–12, omn. ½ fr.; _Hôt. de la Paix_, _Hôt. de France_, etc.—CAB. Drive 30, for 3 pers. 40, with pair 50 c.; hour 1–1¼ or 1½–2 fr.; ½ day (6 hrs.) 4, 5, or 7 fr.; whole day (12 hrs.) 6, 7, 12, or 14 fr. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Hon. T. Bourke_, Rue de Provence. _Bizerta_, Fr. _Bizerte_, Arabic _Bent-Zert_ (pop. 17,300, of whom 9500 are Moslems, 5100 Italians and Maltese), a town strongly garrisoned with 7000 men, the ancient _Hippo Diarrhytus_ (_Zarytus_), was one of the earliest Phœnician settlements on the Tunisian coast. It lies on the W. shore of the _Bay of Bizerta_, between a range of hills on the N.W., culminating in _Jebel Kebir_ (900 ft.), and a strip of land (once bounding the Bizerta Lake, and also fortified), to the S.E., beyond the harbour-canal. The old town, to which many Moors flocked after the fall of Granada (p. 75), and which was occupied for a short time by Charles V. on his way back from Tunis in 1535 (p. 323) and was to a great extent destroyed by a Venetian fleet in 1785, rises on the hill-side between the ruined _Kasba_ and the _Fort d’Espagne_, both originally built by the Spaniards. The _Old Harbour_, unimportant in ancient times, became in the 16th cent. a favourite haunt of pirates, but is now used by fishing-boats only. Of the _Old Harbour Canal_, completely choked up with the mud of centuries, the mouth alone now exists. The new town, with its busy market (Tues. and Thurs.), is still in embryo. The _Avant-Port_, 215 acres in area, constructed by the Compagnie du Port de Bizerte in 1890–5, is sheltered by two piers, the Jetée du Nord (1337 yds. long) and the Jetée du Sud (1041 yds.), and by a new mole or breakwater (670 yds.). The commercial harbour consists of the _New Harbour Canal_, 1 M. long, 263 yds. broad, and 33 ft. deep, the entrance to the Goulet (p. 352), and also of the Baie de Sebra (p. 352). Two steam-ferries (bacs à vapeur; passage free) cross to the N.E. bank of the canal, where there are large coal-stores near the village of _Zarzouna_. The HIGH ROAD FROM TUNIS TO (37½ M.) BIZERTA diverges to the N., between the Bardo (p. 339) and Kassar-Saïd (p. 342), from the road connecting Tebourba with Medjez el-Bab (p. 328), intersects the Roman *Aqueduct of Carthage (p. 348), which was here restored in the 16th cent., and ascends through olive-woods to the saddle (269 ft.) between the hills of Ariana (p. 338), on the right, and _Jebel Ahmar_ (1060 ft.), on the left. 10 M. _La Sebala_ lies on the S. edge of the marshy Medjerda delta (p. 129), now called _Sebala_. 16 M. _Fondouk el-Kantara_, a caravanserai on the right bank of the Medjerda, near the old seven-arched bridge. Just beyond (19½ M.) _Oued Cherchara_ a road branches off, to the N.E., past the spurs of _Jebel Menzel Roul_ (541 ft.), once a cape, to (2 M.) the ruins of =Utica=, the earliest Phœnician settlement in this region. Before the rise of Carthage it was the richest trading town in Barbary, and from 146 to 29 B.C. it was the capital of the province of Africa and seat of the Roman proconsul. It was here that the younger Cato committed suicide (46 B.C.) on the overthrow of Pompey’s party in the civil war against Cæsar. The harbour, entirely silted up since the middle of the 3rd cent., lay between the cape and a small island off the coast. The sea is now 5½ M., and the mouth of the Medjerda, near the Porto-Farina lagoon (p. 354), is nearly 10 M. distant. The Roman town was destroyed by Hassan ibn en-Nôman (p. 322) in 698, at the same time as Carthage. The ruins, now called _Henchir Bou-Chateur_, consist chiefly of the aqueduct and cisterns, a theatre, a vast amphitheatre, and large thermæ. Beyond Jebel Menzel Roul the Bizerta road traverses a desolate plain, strewn with Roman ruins. On the S.E. side of _Jebel Kechbata_ (1370 ft.), and also in the marshy plain beyond it, roads diverge to the right (one 12½, the other 15 M.) to =Porto-Farina= (pop. 1400, incl. 320 Europeans, mostly Maltese), the _Ruscinona_ of antiquity, a notorious pirates’ harbour in the Turkish period. In 1665 it was destroyed by an English fleet, but it was restored and fortified by Ahmed Bey (1837–55). Potatoes are largely cultivated in the neighbourhood. The _Lac de Porto-Farina_, on the S. side of _Jebel Nadour_ (883 ft.), once abounding in fish, has been filled up by the deposits of the Medjerda since the middle of last century. Beyond the dunes of _Aïn Bou-Ras_, where the new water-conduit of Bizerta, 8½ M. long, has its source, our road runs close to the lake of Bizerta, passes (34½ M.) _Menzel Djemil_, and ends on the old neck of land on the harbour-canal of (37½ M.) _Bizerta_ (see p. 353). 55. From Tunis to Dougga (_Le Kef_). Excursionists to Dougga usually start from the station of _Medjez el-Bab_ (Hôt. des Colons; p. 328), 41 M. by train from the S. Station at Tunis (in 1¼–2½ hrs.; fares 7 fr. 40, 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 95, return 10 fr. 35, 7 fr. 85, 5 fr. 55 c.). Thence by motor-omnibus (starting every morning; 5 fr.) to Dougga direct. Or we may take a carriage (30 fr.; ordered in advance at the Hôt. des Colons) or the diligence (6 hrs.; 2½ fr.) from Medjez el-Bab to (28 M.) _Teboursouk_, whence we go on to (3¾ M.) Dougga by carr. (5–6 fr.) or on mule-back (3–4 fr.).—The journey may be made also from the station of _Pont-de-Trajan_ (p. 327; 66½ M. by railway in 2¾–4 hrs.; fares 12 fr., 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 40 c.); ride thence (mule being ordered beforehand at Béja, p. 328) viâ _Henchir Maâtria_ to (17½ M.) Teboursouk; or from the station of _Gaffour_ (p. 360; 75 M. in 4½–5½ hrs.; fares 13 fr. 55, 10 fr. 30, 7 fr. 25 c.); ride thence across _Jebel Sidi Abdallah Ben-Cheid_ to (19 M.) Teboursouk. The excursion from Tunis to Dougga and back, in one day, is far more easily made by motor-car (p. 330). Motoring parties are occasionally formed at the tourist offices (p. 331). From Tunis to (41 M.) _Medjez el-Bab_ by railway, see pp. 329, 328.—The two roads from Tunis to Medjez el-Bab, one direct (35½ M.) viâ _Bordj el-Amri_, the other, passing the station and running viâ _Djedeïda_ and _Tebourba_ (p. 329), unite on the left bank of the Medjerda, near the bridge (p. 328). Our road leads from Medjez el-Bab in the same direction as the Roman road from Carthage to Tebessa (see p. 328), to the S.W., generally a little apart from the Medjerda, past a good many Roman ruins. 9 M. _Slouguia_ (299 ft.; the ancient _Chidibbia_), a village with a slender minaret, lies on a hill on the right bank. The road then leads through olive-woods and vineyards to (12 M.) =Testour=, on the site of the Roman _Tichilla_, now a little town of 3500 inhab., mostly descendants of Andalusian Moors, with thriving potteries and a large Friday market. We cross the _Oued Siliana_, not far from its influx into the Medjerda, and then ascend in long windings above the valley of the _Oued Khalled_, a tributary of the Medjerda. 18 M. _Aïn-Tounga_ (821 ft.; no inn), on the N. slope of _Jebel Tounga_ (1575 ft.), the site of the small Roman town of _Thignica_, has the ruins of two triumphal arches, a temple of =Mercury= (170 A.D.), and a Byzantine fortress. We descend, in sight of Teboursouk and the distant capitol of Dougga, into the valley of the Oued Khalled. We pass through many side-valleys, cross the river, and then ascend a branch of the road to the right, soon joining the Gaffour road (p. 360). 28 M. =Teboursouk= (1378 ft.; Hôt. International, R. 3½) B. ½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 10 fr., quite good, but charges should be agreed upon beforehand; Hôt. de la Poste, humble; pop. 3000, (incl. 300 Europeans) has a fine open site on the olive-clad slope of _Kef Teboursouk_, high above the valley of the _Oued Zebbès_. Into the walls of the narrow and picturesque streets are built many fragments from the ruins of the once considerable town of _Thubursicum Bure_. We note also the _Byzantine Fortress_ (with remains of a Roman triumphal arch in its N. wall) and the _Neo-Punic Burial Ground_, to the S.W. of the town. A superb distant view is obtained at the ruined tower at the upper end of the town. The rough, hilly road from _Pont-de-Trajan_ (p. 327) to Teboursouk leads through the rugged hill-region to the S. of the Medjerda, and passes (12½ M.) _Henchir Maâtria_, the ruins of the small Roman town of _Numluli_ or _Numiulis_ (foundations of the capitol of 170 A.D., early-Christian chapel in quatrefoil form with four apses, and Byzantine fort). It ends at the N. gate of (17½ M.) _Teboursouk_. The ROAD TO DOUGGA, 3¾ M. from Teboursouk, leaves the Le Kef road (p. 357) after ½ M. and ascends to the S.W. over a plateau thinly overgrown with scrub. =Dougga= (about 1970 ft.), a poor Berber village on the S. margin of _Kef Dougga_, is the ancient _Thugga_, one of the oldest and most important places in the heart of Tunisia. The site of the ruins, which vie with those of Gightis (p. 392), is the most beautiful in the whole country. The name is of Berber origin (_thukka_, pasture). It appears to have been the seat of a Berber dynasty allied with Carthage. It then belonged successively to the Carthaginian dominions and to those of Masinissa (p. 321), and attained its prime about the end of the 2nd cent. A.D. The grand late-Roman ruins, partly excavated since 1891, the venerable olive-woods on Kef Dougga, and the view of the Oued Khalled valley and of the N. Tunisian hills, stretching far away to Jebel Zaghouan and Jebel Bou-Kornin (p. 363), combine to form a fascinating picture. On the N.W. horizon is _Jebel Gorra_ (3160 ft.), famed ever since ancient times for its lead and zinc mines. Comp. ‘Thugga’, by _Dr. Carton_ (Tunis; 2½ fr.). The old _Porte de l’Est_, where a branch of the Tebessa road ended, and the _Thermae_ near it are entirely ruined. From that gate we walk along the S. slope of the hill to the *=Mausoleum= of a Berber prince (5th or 4th cent. B.C.), probably the oldest existing Punic-Libyan monument of the kind. Built in the style of the Egyptian and Syrian tombs of kings, the mausoleum, originally about 55 ft. high, consisted of a pile of huge limestone blocks. The substructure, resting on a foundation of six steps, is adorned with narrow corner-pillars and three blind windows. The middle part, which is square, rises above three steps and has two portals flanked with Ionic mural columns and an Egyptian concave moulding instead of a cornice. Three more steps, once embellished at the angles with figures on horseback, bore a small pyramid crowned with the figure of a lion. The upper part was unfortunately destroyed in 1842 by natives employed by Sir T. Reade, with the bey’s permission, to remove the inscription in the Phœnician and the Libyan language, which is now in the British Museum. The monument, however, has been recently completely restored The tomb-chamber is probably underneath the monument. Passing through the village, to the W., we come to the ruins of other _Thermae_ and the so-called _Dâr el-Acheb_, a Roman building of some kind, of which the steps and façade alone remain. We ascend thence to the N.E., past the foundations of _Roman Houses_, to the hill of the Capitol. The *=Capitol= (comp. p. 288), the conspicuous landmark of Dougga, is one of the finest ruined temples in Tunisia, vying with the three temples of Sbeïtla (p. 371). It is a Corinthian pseudo-peripteros, with a lofty flight of eleven steps and a portico of six columns, 43 ft. high and 24 ft. deep, the whole consisting of great limestone blocks. The square cella, 15 by 14 yds., has been destroyed, with the exception of the portal and the stone-panelled back-wall, with its semicircular niche in the centre and two square side-niches for images. The inscription on the frieze of the portico, of the time of Marcus Aurelius (166–9 A.D.), names two citizens of Thugga as the founders. In the Byzantine period the temple formed the nucleus of the citadel. The **=Roman Theatre=, on the hill-side a little to the E. of the Capitol, is not only the best-preserved in N. Africa but is unique in the richness and beauty of its embellishment. The twenty-five tiers of seats in the Cavea, or auditorium, are almost intact, except that the upper colonnade has fallen into the orchestra. The stage (pulpitum) still has the old pavement, the front-wall, articulated like similar structures in Algeria, and the superb rear wall, with its three niches and remains of rich columnar decoration. The founder of the building, as recorded by the inscription now lying on the ground, was the flamen perpetuus L. Marcius Quadratus. Of the _Forum_ and of the street connecting it with the Capitol fragments of the pavement only have been unearthed. The *=Temple of Cælestis=, in the olive-wood to the N.W. of the Capitol, is the strangest ruin at Dougga. The crescent-shaped court represents the half-moon, the symbol of the Punic goddess Tanit, or Astarte, whose name was Latinized in the Roman period. The ruin stands on the hill-side, supported by huge substructures. The court terminated in a rectangular antechamber, 46 by 20 yds. The two entrances, with dedicatory inscriptions, lay at the sides, preceded by square chambers (or towers). The semicircular wall of the court (57 yds. in diameter), in concrete, is partly preserved. A large hall here, with two corner-pillars and twenty-three Corinthian columns, formed along with the antechamber the meeting-place of the congregation. The temple itself, in the centre of the court, which was probably planted with trees, was a rectangle of 18½ by 10½ yds., but its foundations alone survive. The flight of steps and the two semicircular apses at the back of the cella date from a restoration in the Byzantine period. The inscription names a wealthy citizen of the time of Alex. Severus as the founder (222–35). We next walk through olive-wood to the E. to the _Roman Cisterns_, once fed by the partly preserved aqueduct of Aïn el-Hammam (S.W. of Dougga), and then, past the ancient N. gate of the town, the _Arch of Alexander Severus_, called by the Arabs _Bâb er-Rûmia_ (‘gate of the Christian woman’), to the ruins of the _Numidic Citadel_ and the _Roman Hippodrome_. Near this is the ancient _Berber Burial Ground_, containing several dolmens. On the steep slope of a bare hill to the N.N.E. of the Theatre, and once no less conspicuous than the Capitol, was enthroned the =Temple of Saturn=, founded by a rich citizen in 195 A.D. The ruin probably stands on the site of a Punic temple of Baal Hâman. The peculiar ground-plan is reminiscent of the Phœnician temples, whose open colonnaded courts contained altars for burnt offerings. The pronaos or vestibule, resembling a corridor, to which there was an approach at the S. end only, had a portico of four Corinthian columns facing the E., high above the Oued Khalled; but of all this there are but scanty traces. From the pronaos a small gate admitted into a quadrangle, paved with limestone slabs, and enclosed on three sides by Corinthian colonnades. On the W. side these were divided by partitions into three sections, forming ante-rooms to the three cellæ. The raised central cella, once railed in, was the chief shrine, richly adorned with wall-paintings and reliefs in stucco. * * * * * THE HIGH ROAD (FROM MEDJEZ EL-BAB) TO LE KEF, which is joined by the road from Teboursouk 3 M. to the S. of the latter, runs high above the Oued Khalled, and soon passes (32 M. from Medjez el-Bab) _Aïn-Hedja_ (about 1300 ft.), below the ruins of _Agbia_ (Byzantine fortress, etc.). Farther on, leaving the zinc-mines of _Jebel Fedj el-Adoum_ on one side, we traverse the hill-country to the N.W. of the _Plaine du Krib_ (p. 360). 38 M. _Aïn-Rharsalla_ (about 1600 ft.), below the Byzantine castle of _Aunobaris_. 39 M. _Kubba Sidi Abd er-Rehou_, not far from _Henchir Mest_, the ruins of _Mustis_ (including two arches on the Tebessa road, one being a triumphal arch of Gordian III.). 46 M. _Bordj Messaoudi_, a large caravanserai, with Friday market for the peasants of the Krib, adjoins the ruins of the small town of _Thacia_, near which the Roman road to Le Kef diverged from the road to Tebessa. We descend into the valley of the _Oued Tessa_, a tributary of the Oued Mellègue (p. 327), and then, on the N. slope of _Jebel Kebouch_ (2723 ft.), pass a _Roman Bridge_ and the ruins of _Ucubis_. The road now skirts the _Dyr el-Kef_ (3570 ft.; ‘rock-plateau’), with its Poste Optique, and in the plain of _Bled Zafran_ (p. 360) joins the road from Maktar (p. 360) and, a little farther on, that from Souk el-Arba (p. 326). 70 M. _Le Kef_, see p. 360. 56. From Tunis to Le Kef and Kalaâ-Djerda. FROM TUNIS TO LE KEF, 125½ M., railway, two trains daily in 8¼–9 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 60, 17 fr. 15, 12 fr. 10 c.); also local trains from Tunis to Pont-du-Fahs and Gaffour.—FROM TUNIS TO KALAÂ-DJERDA, 146 M., two trains daily in 10–11 hrs. (fares 26 fr. 30 c., 20 fr., 14 fr. 10 c.); also a local train between Gaffour and Kalaâ-Djerda.—Railway Restaurants at Gaffour and Les Salines only. _Tunis_, see p. 329. Our line diverges, to the S.E., near Bab Alleoua (p. 339), from the Algeria and Bizerta line (RR. 51, 54) and skirts Lake Bahira below the _Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen_ (p. 339). 2½ M. _Djebel-Djelloud_, close to the _Jebel Djelloud_ (138 ft.) is the junction for Susa (R. 57) and has railway-works, large quarries, and lime-kilns. The train now runs to the N.E. to (5 M.) _Bir-Kassa_. BRANCH LINE TO LA LAVERIE (17½ M. from Tunis, in ca. 1¾ hr.; 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 40 c.; many stops). Beyond (6 M. from Tunis) _Bordj-Gourbel_ the _Oued Miliane_ (p. 363) is crossed. On the right bank is the fertile, olive-clad _Plaine du Mornag_. 13 M. _Haut-Mornag-Crétéville_, at the S. base of _Jebel Bou-Kornin_ (p. 363). Crétéville lies on the road from Tunis to Grombalia (p. 364), near the grand _Khanguet el-Hadjadj_ (‘pilgrim-pass’), a deep ravine between Jebel Bou-Kornin and Jebel Ressas (see below), through which formerly passed the traffic between the interior and the harbours on the E. seaboard. In this defile, now clothed with vineyards, lay the little town of _Neferis_, which was destroyed by the Romans at the same time as Carthage. 17½ M. (from Tunis) _La Laverie_ (377 ft.) is a village of Italian miners, at the W. foot of _Jebel Ressas_ (2608 ft.; ‘lead-mountain’), where lead-mines were already worked in Roman times. Beyond (8 M.) _Nassen_ we cross the Miliane. 12½ M. _Khledia._ 15 M. =Oudna.= In the hill-country, ½ hr. to the S.E., is the large Ferme Ducroquet, situated among the ruins of _Uthina_, one of the wealthiest towns of N. Tunisia in the Roman age. Of the public buildings nothing remains but the _Cisterns_ and scanty traces of the _Theatre_ and _Amphitheatre_. Among the ruins of private houses is the _Palace of the Laberii_ (end of 3rd cent. A.D.), a fine specimen of a sumptuous African-Roman dwelling, with a large peristyle as its centre (comp. p. 290) and numerous mosaics (now mostly in the Bardo Museum). The adjoining Balineum (baths) was long used, from the 5th cent. onwards, as a potter’s workshop. Fine view from the highest hill (407 ft.); on a lower hill is a _Byzantine Fortress_. Beyond Oudna the line intersects the Roman *_Aqueduct of Carthage_ (p. 359), in a landscape bright with flowers in spring. 17½ M. _Bou er-Rébia_, on the Tunis and Zaghouan road (p. 359). 22½ M. _Djebel-Oust_ lies at the N. base of _Jebel Oust_ (1800 ft.), on which are noteworthy remains of two large piscinæ, Roman irrigation-works, and marble quarries, worked since ancient times. 30½ M. _Smindja_ or _Depienne_ (450 ft.), a village of ‘colonists’ in the _Plaine de Smindja_, a dale, containing numerous ruins, at the foot of the Zaghouan hills. BRANCH LINE TO ZAGHOUAN (8 M., in ½ hr.; fares 1 fr. 45, 1 fr. 10 c., 75 c.; return-ticket from Tunis 9 fr. 75, 7 fr. 35, 5 fr. 20 c.). At _Moghrane_ (525 ft.), the only intermediate station, the two Roman aqueducts and the modern conduits (p. 339) from Jebel Zaghouan and Jebel Djouggar unite. The ROAD FROM TUNIS TO ZAGHOUAN (34½ M.) leads past the _Abattoirs_ (beyond Pl. E, 7) and the _Sebkha es-Sedjoumi_ (p. 332) to (8 M.) _La Mohamédia_, a poor village, with the decayed residence of Ahmed Bey (p. 344). It crosses the Oued Miliane near the arches of the Roman aqueduct, here 66 ft. high, and beyond _Bou er-Rébia_ (p. 358) leads along the E. slope of Jebel Oust to (34½ M.) Zaghouan. A branch of the road from La Mohamédia, passing _Oudna_ (p. 358), also leads to Zaghouan. =Zaghouan= (821 ft.; Hôt. de France, déj. 3 fr., plain but quite good, orders should be given in advance; pop. 1200, incl. 530 Europeans, mostly Ital.), Arab. _Zaghwân_, a charming place, specially in spring, lies amidst olives, oranges, and cypresses on a terrace at the foot of Jebel Zaghouan (see below), ¼ hr. above the station. The Roman _Triumphal Arch_, at the entrance to the village, is the sole relic of the small town of _Onellana_ (_?_); the columns of the nymphæum now adorn the _Chief Mosque_. We may thence walk in ½ hr. to the _Prise d’Eau_ (902 ft.), the reservoir of the new conduit which supplies both Zaghouan and Tunis with water from the _Aïn Ayed_. The direct route leads from the station past the barracks of the tirailleurs; or we may follow a rough but romantic path from the little town, through a secluded valley, where numerous nightingales nest among the oleander-bushes by the bed of the stream. From the Prise d’Eau a rocky path leads to the S.W. to the (12 min.) *NYMPHÆUM (_Temple des Eaux_; Arabic _Henchir Aïn-Kasba_, ‘ruined castle of the fountain’), the well-house of the Carthage aqueduct (p. 348), shaded by groups of splendid old trees. Near the basin are two flights of steps leading to the semicircle of the fountain-shrine, with its colonnade, twenty-four empty niches for statues, and a domed central chamber, the ante-room of the cella. *=Jebel Zaghouan= (4245 ft.), the ancient _Mons Ziquensis_, the finest mountain in Tunisia, offers from the summit, called _Râs el-Kasa_, a superb panorama of the greater part of N. Tunisia and of the E. coast as far as Susa. It is ascended from the Nymphæum path in 4 hrs., past the kubba of _Sidi Sala Bou-Ghobrin_ (2264 ft.) and the zinc-mines (with their humble canteen), and lastly by rough and toilsome paths. Less extensive, but also very grand, is the view near the _Poste Optique_ (3199 ft.), 2 hrs. above the Prise d’Eau (bridle-path; mule 2–3 fr.). Our train, running to the S.W. with a fine view of Jebel Zaghouan on the left, now intersects the Smindja plain and reaches the _Fahs er-Riah_, the fertile upper basin of the valley of the Oued Miliane, which is here formed by the _Oued Jarabia_ and the _Oued el-Kébir_. Its inhabitants are of the Riah tribe, descendants of the Beni Hilal (p. 323). 40 M. _Pont-du-Fahs_ (574 ft.). The village (Hôt. Calega, poor), occupied by immigrants, lies ½ hr. to the N.E., on the left bank of the Miliane. Behind it, on the spurs of _Jebel Djaffar_ (1185 ft.), are the extensive ruins of _Henchir-Kasbat_ (702 ft.), the ancient _Thuburbo Majus_; in the forum are two ruined temples, one of them, dedicated to Mercury, dating from 211 A.D.; there are also triumphal arches, thermæ, and a Byzantine fortress. On the right rises the curiously shaped _Jebel Klab_ (1204 ft.). We cross the Oued el-Kébir and run to the W. through the Jarabia valley to (48½ M.) _Tarf ech-Chena_, 3 M. to the N.W. of _Apisa Majus_. Farther on almost the only habitations visible are the tents and gourbis (twig-huts) of nomadic tribes. Beyond (55½ M.) _Bou-Arada_ we cross the watershed between the Oued Miliane and the _Oued Siliana_ (p. 354). 65 M. _El-Aroussa_, station for _Ksar Hellal_, which has an early-Christian chapel of trefoil form. 70 M. _Sidi-Ayed_, on the Oued Siliana. We then ascend the winding valley to the S.W. 75 M. =Gaffour= (about 1080 ft.; Rail. Restaurant, with rooms), with its railway-works, is the station for the large estate of the Société Foncière de Tunisie, 72,500 acres in area, where extensive corn-fields are seen in spring. From Gaffour a road, tolerably fit for driving in dry weather, leads over _Jebel Sidi Abdalla Ben-Cheid_ (2070 ft.) to _Teboursouk_ (Dougga; comp. p. 354). 82 M. _El-Akhouat_, in the valley of the _Oued Soufi_, near the zinc-mines on _Jebel el-Akhouat_ (2061 ft.); 86½ M. _Le Krib_, on the S. edge of the fertile _Plaine du Krib_. 93 M. _Sidi Bou-Rouis_, on the _Oued Tessa_ (p. 357), which here forms a wide bend to the E. round _Jebel Maïza_ (2920 ft.). To the left rises the chain of _Jebel Massouge_ (3019 ft.). 103 M. _Le Sers_, on the N. margin of the broad dale of that name (Arabic _Bled es-Sers_), one of the most fertile inland districts in Tunisia. 106 M. =Les Salines= (Rail. Restaurant), junction for Kalaâ-Djerda (see p. 361), lies on the highroad from Le Kef to Souk et-Tléta and on a rough road to (19 M.) Maktar. =Maktar= (3117 ft.; inn), the _Maktarium_ of the Libyans and the _Ælia Aurelia Augusta Mactaris_ of the Romans, to the W. of the richly wooded _Hammada Kessera_, is now a small village of ‘colonists’ with a fortified bordj (Contrôle Civil; containing an epigraphical collection), and is the administrative centre for the district of the Ouled Aoun and Ouled Ayar. Extensive orchards and Sunday market. Among the antiquities are numerous dolmens, Roman ruins (arch of Trajan of 116 A.D., mausolea, an aqueduct, etc.), and an early-Christian basilica. The train next ascends to the N.W., between Jebel Maïza, on the right, and _Jebel Lorbeus_ (2641 ft.), on the left, and crosses the _Oued Lorbeus_, up whose valley once lay the Roman _Lares_, later _Lorbeus_, a small town destroyed in 1048 by the Hilalides (p. 323).—118 M. _Zafran_, on the spurs of _Jebel Zafran_. Traversing the bleak mountain plain of _Bled Zafran_ we soon have a fine view of Le Kef and the barren _Dyr el-Kef_ (p. 357). 125½ M. =Le Kef= (2477 ft.; Hôt. Dalban, Milano, etc., very plain; pop. 7000, incl. 1400 Europeans, 900 of them Italians), superbly situated near an abrupt rocky slope, the S.W. spur of Dyr el-Kef, was down to modern times the chief town in W. Tunisia. In its earliest period it was famed for its temple of Astarte. After the first Punic war the discontented mercenaries (p. 332) were banished hither. Under Augustus the town became a Roman colony named _Sicca_, with the cognomen of _Veneria_ derived from its temple of Venus. Under the later Roman empire it was of great strategic importance, lying at the junction of the roads to Thacia (p. 357), Theveste (Tebessa), Thagaste (p. 313), and Simitthu (p. 326); by the Arabs it was even regarded as the key of Algeria. During the Turkish period fierce battles were fought under its walls (in 1694, 1705, and 1807) between the beys of Tunisia and Algeria, and during the French advance in 1881 Le Kef was hardly a less important objective than Tunis itself. Since then the mosques have been open to visitors (tickets at the Contrôle Civil). From the station (omnibus) we ascend through the new European quarter, with its red-tiled roofs, to (20 min.) the Boulevard de Tunis, once the rampart on the N.W. side of the town, where we have an extensive view. The only Roman ruins are the basin of _Aïn el-Kef_ and the _Thermae_ at the W. angle of the old town. The old town, still enclosed on three sides by the mouldering Turkish wall, consists of narrow and irregular streets built partly out of Roman and Byzantine ruins. The old _Dâr el-Bey_ is now the Hôtel de Ville. The _Chief Mosque_ (Djamâa el-Kebîra) is built into the ruins of an early-Christian basilica (?). The early-Christian *CHURCH OF ST. PETER (Arabic _Dâr el-Kuss_) was a small columnar basilica of the early 5th cent, with nave and aisles (23 by 10½ yds.); but the narthex (vestibule, now used as a church) and the fine choir-recess have alone been left standing. Many Roman sculptures, mostly from a temple, have been built into the walls of the aisles, which were originally vaulted. The nave, which once had a timber roof, retains relics of its old mosaic pavement. The zaouïa of _Sidi Kaddour el-Mizouni_, one of the three largest Tunisian establishments of the widely diffused Mohammedan brotherhood of the Kadria (p. 183), enjoys a high reputation. The zaouïa of _Sidi Salah ben-Aïssa_, belonging to the Rahmania, contains a fine modern cenotaph of the saint. Steep lanes and passages in steps connect the old town with the Turkish _Kasba_ (now barracks). Outside the town is a third early-Christian church, the so-called _Kasr el-Ghûla_ (‘castle of ghosts’). The _Roman Cisterns_ to the N. of the Kasba are still used. From Le Kef to _Souk el-Arba_, see p. 326; to _Tunis_, see R. 55. * * * * * The RAILWAY TO KALAÂ-DJERDA runs to the S.W. from Les Salines (p. 360) through the pass of _Khanguet Fras_ to (112 M. from Tunis) _Les Zouarines_, in the plain of the _Bled Zouarine_. 119 M. _Ebba-Ksour_ is the station for the ruins of _Ebba_, the _Obba_ of the Carthaginians and Romans, destroyed by the Hilalides (p. 323) in 1048, and for the village of _Ksour_ (2164 ft.), on the N. edge of the rocky upland plain of _Ouartane_, the site of a Libyan-Phœnician town. We cross the _Oued Medeïna_ below the ruins of _Medeïna_, the Roman _Althiburus_ (with theatre, capitol, triumphal arch, etc.). 125 M. _Aïn-Mesria_; 128½ M. _Fedj el-Tameur_, junction for (19½ M.) the mines of _Slata_. The train next passes over the saddle between the lofty plateau of _Khremensa_, rich in phosphates, on the right, and _Jebel Ayata_ (3480 ft.), on the left, and then descends past _Jebel Zrissa_, on the right, with its iron-mines, into the valley of the _Oued Sarrath_, the chief feeder of the Oued Mellègue (p. 327). 138½ M. _Oued-Sarrath_ (ca. 1900 ft.), on the right bank. BRANCH LINE from Oued-Sarrath (18½ M., in 1¼–1¾ hr.) down the left bank of the Sarrath viâ _Majouba_ to =Kalaât es-Senam= (Hôt. de Jugurtha), the station for the great phosphate deposits of the Comp. des Phosphates du Dyr on the _Jebel Kalaât es-Senam_ (4111 ft.). The top of the huge mountain, conspicuous far and wide, consists of a tableland, occupied by a deserted Berber village and an old Byzantine fort, accessible only by steep paths with steps. The train skirts the Sarrath and then ascends the side-valley of _Oued Haidra_. On the left, _Jebel Bou el-Hanèche_ (4040 ft.). 146 M. =Kalaâ-Djerda= (about 2130 ft.; hotel), near the rich phosphate mines of an Italian company on the hills of that name (2886 ft.). A most interesting excursion may be taken to (11 M.) =Haidra= (about 2790 ft.), the Tunisian frontier custom-house, on the site of _Ammaedara_ (_Colonia Augusta Emerita Ammaedara_), founded perhaps by Vespasian as a Roman colony of veterans, and in the later Roman age no less important than Tebessa. Originally a frontier-fortress it was, like Timgad (p. 289), a model Roman camp. The Carthage and Tebessa road formed the Decumanus Maximus and the Kasserine and Gafsa road the Cardo Maximus. On the left bank the ruins have partly fallen into the bed of the Oued Haidra. The much smaller suburb lay on the right bank. The castellated *_Byzantine Fortress_ of the time of Justinian (p. 541), the largest in N. Africa, was built to guard the passage of the stream. Within the vast enclosure, 219 by 120 yds., are remains of a Byzantine basilica, cisterns, etc.—The imposing *_Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Septimius Severus (p. 407) was used by the Byzantines as a fort also. Near it are an early-Christian _Basilica_, with aisles and extensive Byzantine additions (curious, unexplained holes in the masonry; comp. p. 317), and a second _Basilica_ with double aisles and numerous tombstones. A column, 33 ft. high, is the sole relic of a Roman _Temple_, the only one of which there is a trace. High above the stream, almost intact, rises a Roman *_Mausoleum_, with an open loggia on the upper story.—From Haidra over (10½ M.) _Jebel Kouïf_ to (26 M.) _Tebessa_, see p. 318. A ROAD leads from Kalaâ-Djerda to _Kasserine_ (43 M.; diligence to Thala daily, thence to Kasserine on Tues. and Frid. only) over the central Sahara Atlas (p. 320) and through the valley of the _Oued Hathob_ (p. 320), by which of old the Arabs invaded Algeria. (From Kasserine to Feriana, see p. 371.) The only village on the route, as in the time of Marius (p. 384) it was the only settlement between Lares (p. 360) and Gafsa, is (8¾ M.) Thala (3337 ft.; Hôt. Recli, Hôt. Gros, both rustic; pop. 800, incl. 80 Europeans), which holds market (Sat.–Mon.) for the Arab-like Berber tribes of the Fraichich (the Frexes of Ptolemy) and Madjeur. It lies on the N.E. slope of _Jebel Char_ (4321 ft.), 40½ M. to the N.E. of Tebessa (p. 315). The Roman antiquities of the town, which was most prosperous under Diocletian, are uninteresting. Near the Esplanade, in the centre of the Roman town, are traces of a temple of Cælestis (p. 356). 57. From Tunis to Susa. 93 M. RAILWAY, two trains daily in 4½–5 hrs. (fares 16 fr. 80, 12 fr. 75 c., 9 fr.); also local trains between Tunis and Hammam-Lif (return-fares 3, 2, 1 fr., or, in summer, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 60 c., 80 c.); also a train to Bir Bou-Rekba (Nabeul). Views on the left.—Railway Restaurants at Bir Bou-Rekba, Enfidaville, and Kalaâ-Srira.—STEAMERS to Susa, see R. 64. From Tunis to (2½ M.) _Djebel-Djelloud_, see p. 358. Our train turns to the E. to (3¾ M.) _Mégrine_, a station amidst vineyards. Pretty views of Tunis, behind us, to the left. 6¼ M. _Maxula-Rades_, in a marshy site, at the S. end of the tongue of land between Lake Bahira (p. 129) and the open sea. On a height, ¼ hr. to the S. of the station, lies the picturesque little town of =Rades=, which, like Sidi Bou-Saïd (p. 351), is a favourite summer residence of the wealthy Moslems of Tunis. Near the _Fort_ (184 ft.) behind the town we have a splendid view of Lake Bahira, the hills of Carthage, the bay of Tunis, and the fertile Mornag (p. 358). To the N. of the station lies _Maxula_, a colony of the villas of European families in Tunis, on the site of the Roman town of that name. A road leads thence to (1¼ M.; tramway in summer) the bathing-beach on the bay of Tunis. A ROAD, enlivened by many vehicles, especially on Sundays and holidays, leads from Maxula to (3½ M.) _Goletta_ (p. 343). It runs to the N. through the isthmus, past swamps and fig-gardens, and, on the left, past large salt-ponds, where in summer salt is obtained by evaporation, and finally it skirts the sea. About an hour’s walk brings us to the steam-ferry (bac à vapeur; free) across the new _Bahira Canal_ (p. 129), opposite the station of the electric tramway to Carthage (p. 343). We cross the _Oued Miliane_ (p. 358), below a five-arched bridge (1749; not visible from the train) and close to the shore, which is here marshy at places. 10½ M. =Hammam-Lif= (Hôt. de Paris, near the sea, plain; Terminus Hôt., near the station, humble; pop. 1000, incl. 650 Italians), formerly oftener called _Hammam el-Enf_, the ancient _Naro_, is prettily situated at the N. base of Jebel Bou-Kornin (see below). On the wooded slope, to the right of the railway, where the hot salt-springs rise (117–120° Fahr.), is the old _Dâr el-Bey_, a palace now converted into barracks, on the foundations of the Roman baths _Aquae Persianae_, so called from the founder, C. Julius Perseus. Near it is the ‘_Fondouk_‘, the modern unpretending bath-house. Of the late-Roman _Synagogue_ (3rd cent.), discovered here in 1883, scarcely a trace is left. To the N.E. of the station is (¼ M.) the _Bathing Beach_, with a summer casino. Fine view of Goletta, the Carthage hills, and the peninsula of Cape Bon. The *=Jebel Bou-Kornin=, or _Bou-Kournine_, so named from its two ‘horns’, the W. (1890 ft.) and the E. (1626 ft.), separated by a deep hollow, commands a splendid panorama of N. Tunisia. The W. peak, once crowned with a temple of Saturnus Balcaranenis (Saturn-Baal of Mt. Karnaïm), the most famous shrine of Baal in the land, is ascended by a new bridle-path on the E. slope or by a steep old path on the W. margin of the N. spur (925 ft.). A little farther on we pass between the eucalyptus groves and vineyards of the estate of _Potinville_, where many negroes are employed, to (15 M.) _Bordj Cédria_. To the left we sight Jebel Korbous (see below). The train next runs to the N.E. across the _Plain of Soliman_ (see below), a depression between the main chain of the Sahara Atlas (p. 320) and the hills of the peninsula of _Cape Bon_, passing at first through a steppe where browsing camels are often seen. 18 M. _Fondouk Djedid_, a village of immigrant settlers on the wooded spurs of _Jebel Zaïana_. FROM FONDOUK DJEDID TO MENZEL BOU-ZELFA, 8½ M., branch-line in ¾ hr. (through-carr. from Tunis to Soliman by the morning train; return-fares 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 55 c.). Also from Tunis (Auto-Palace, p. 330) motor-omnibus Sun. and Thurs. at 8.30 a.m., in 1½ hr. (fare 8, return 10 fr.). The only intermediate station is =Soliman= (145 ft.; Hôt. Zammit, humble; pop. 2200, incl. 150 Europeans; Frid. market), a picturesque little town founded by Andalusian Moors in 1616, with a lofty minaret. Thence through venerable olive-woods to _Menzel Bou-Zelfa_ (or _Zalfa_; 197 ft.), famed for its luxuriant orchards, with a zaouïa of the Kadria brotherhood and an important cattle-market (Thurs.). A ROAD FROM SOLIMAN, where a hotel-omnibus from Korbous meets the morning train (fare to Korbous 2, there and back 3, luggage 1 fr.; other vehicles also), leads at first to the N.E. through pleasant olive-groves, and then, beyond the _Oued Bezirk_, runs behind the low coast-dunes to _Mraïssa_, the ruins of the little Roman town of _Carpis_. At (7½ M.) the kubba of _Sidi Raïs_, near which are seen fragments of walls of the harbour of Carpis, begins the new coast-road to Korbous. This skirts the rocky slopes of _Jebel Korbous_ (1375 ft.), being strongly buttressed at places, and affords a delightful view, especially in the morning, of Tunis, the Carthage hills, and the W. shore of the bay as far as Cape Farina (p. 129). 11 M. =Korbous= (Hôt. des Thermes, R. 2–6, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.), a small watering-place, and of late a winter resort also, has hot springs (alkaline and saline, 111–151° Fahr.), an old palace of the beys situated on the shore and now used as a bath-house, and scanty ruins of the Roman baths (_Aquae Carpitanae_). 22 M. _Khanguet_, for Khanguet el-Hadjadj (p. 358); 23½ M. _Grombalia_ (154 ft.), a village of colonists; 30 M. _Bou-Arkoub_ (236 ft.). We then cross the watershed between the bay of Tunis and the _Gulf of Hammamet_. 37½ M. =Bir Bou-Rekba= (Rail. Restaurant), at the foot of bare hills, 10 min. to the W. of _Kasr ez-Zit_, the ruins of _Siagu_ (early-Christian basilica, Byzantine fort, etc.). FROM BIR BOU-REKBA TO NABEUL, 11 M., branch-line in about ¾ hr. (1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 45 c., 1 fr.). The only intermediate station is (2½ M.) =Hammamet= (82 ft.; Hôt. de la Plage, on the shore, R. 2 fr., B. 60 c., déj. or D. 2, pens. 5–6 fr., quite good; pop. 6000, incl. 200 Europeans; Wed. market), most picturesquely situated on a small headland, ¼ hr. to the S. of the station. The ramparts of the ruinous _Kasba_ (now partly a Poste Optique) afford a charming view of the bay as far as Hergla (p. 365). Pretty bathing-beach. The coast between Hammamet and Nabeul has unfortunately been entirely denuded of wood, but the climate in winter is the mildest and healthiest in Tunisia next to that of Djerba (p. 393). The lemons, mandarins, oranges, and other fruits are considered the best in the land. The finest *Fruit Gardens, some of them shaded by groups of old cypresses, lie to the W., in the direction of the ruins of _Pupput_, now called _Souk el-Abiod_, and also on the Nabeul road.—Beyond Hammamet the train crosses numerous torrents. 11 M. =Nabeul= (43 ft.; Hôt. de France, R., déj., D. 2½ fr. each, omn. ½ fr., good; Hôt. des Voyageurs; carr. to Hammamet 5–6 fr.; pop. 11,900, incl. 2000 Jews and 400 Europeans; Frid. market), with its small _Souks_ (p. 335) and pretty gardens, is the chief town on this part of the coast. Its famed old pottery is again thriving. Fayence with geometrical patterns, after Punic and late-Roman models, and porous, unglazed water-jugs (gargoulettes) are the chief products. The small _Poterie Artistique_ (Tissier’s), behind the church, is worth seeing. Pleasant walks are to the N.E. to (20 min.) _Dar-Chabane_, a purely Moslem village; to the S. to the small anchorage near the kubba _Sidi Slîmân_, or to the ruins of _Neapolis_, now largely submerged; a little seaport destroyed at the same time as Carthage (146 B.C.), to which Nabeul owes its name and much of its building-material; to the E. to (3¾ M.) _El-Mamoura_, near the caverns in the _Râs Mamoura_, the N.E. boundary of the bay of Hammamet; to the N. to the (½ hr.) _Râs Tefal_, where the potters dig their clay. The SUSA TRAIN turns to the S.E., quitting the highroad, on which, beyond _Pupput_ (see above), is the so-called _Kasr Menara_, a large Roman circular building resembling the tomb of Cæcilia Metella, the only monument of the kind in Barbary. We approach the spurs of the Sahara Atlas. All around is scanty underwood, with occasional tents of nomads and many pasturing cattle. To the left we have a glimpse of the N. coast of the bay as far as Nabeul (see above). To the W. towers _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359). Beyond the _Oued er-Rebia_, at (49 M.) _Bou-Ficha_, begins the =Enfida=, an estate of 300,000 acres owned by the Société Franco-Africaine, the ancient granary of central Tunisia, but a wilderness for centuries after the irruption of the Beni Hilal (p. 323). Among the farm-labourers are many Sicilians. There are still, however, great desolate tracts, dotted with Roman ruins and old irrigation-works, inhabited only by the nomadic _Oulad Saïd_, descendants of the Hilalides. 54½ M. _Aïn-Hallouf_, near the ruins of _Aphrodisium_, now _Sidi Khalifa_ and _Henchir Fradiz_, close to the salt-marshes of the _Sebkha Djiriba_, which are 19 M. long. 62 M. =Enfidaville= (131 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Hôt. d’Enfidaville, déj. 2½ fr., well spoken of; pop. 6700, incl. 500 Europeans), a rising town of colonists, the largest in the Enfida, is a pretty oasis of trees and vegetable-gardens. Alfa (p. 171) is largely exported. Near the station is a village of nomad-tents. Above the Zaghouan road (p. 359), about 4 M. to the W. of Enfidaville, on _Jebel Takroun_ (657 ft.), is perched the interesting Berber village of _Takrouna_ (pop. about 500), not easily accessible.—In the valley of the _Oued Boul_, 7½ M. to the W. of Enfidaville, on _Jebel Garci_, rises the chalybeate spring of _Aïn-Garci_, on the site of the Roman _Aggersel_.—Some 9½ M. to the S.E. of Enfidaville lies _Hergla_ (reached also by a branch of the road from Sidi Bou-Ali; see p. 366), the ancient _Horrea Caelia_, the corn-mart and export-harbour of the Enfida. The steppe-like character of the landscape again asserts itself. Wild asparagus abounds. To the right in the distance are the bare hills of central Tunisia behind Kairwan (p. 372). 71 M. _Menzel Dar el-Bouar_, not far from the _Sebkha Halk el-Menzel_. On the road, to the N.E. of the station, is an ancient Berber cemetery, with numerous dolmens (p. 324), mostly ruined of late. 76½ M. _Sidi Bou-Ali_, a smiling oasis, with olive and fruit-trees and a few date-palms. We again traverse a stony hill-region, dotted with stunted olive-trees, and then descend into the thickly peopled _Sahel_ (see below), with its many thriving little towns. 85 M. _Kalaâ-Kebira_ (161 ft.; pop. 6500). To the left, farther on, we see the little town of _Akouda_, on a low hill; then the distant _Hammam-Sousse_ in the valley of the _Oued Laya_. 88 M. _Kalaâ-Srira_ (181 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), on the right bank of the Oued Laya, where visitors for Kairwan (R. 58) change carriages. Our train descends the _Oued Kharoub Valley_ to the E. to the coast, with a view of the sea on the left. 93 M. =Susa.=—The STATION (Pl. B, C, 1) for Tunis, Kairwan (R. 58), Mehdia (p. 369), and for the future line to Sfax (R. 59), is in Boul. René Millet, 3–5 min. from the hotels, or 6 min. from the quay. ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. R. 64). The steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (office, Banque de Tunisie, see below), the Società Nazionale (agent, Rue Villedon), and the Comp. de Navigation Mixte (Rue Jules-Ferry 4) all moor at the N. quay (Pl. D, 2). Harbour-tax 4 or 3 fr.—Cabs, see below. HOTELS (comp. p. 324). _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. a; D, 2), Cours de la Marine, R. 4–7, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 11–15 fr.; _Hôtel de France_ (Pl. b; C, 1), Avenue Krantz, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3–3½, pens. 10–12 fr., well spoken of; _Hôtel du Sahel_ (Pl. c; D, 1), Rue Jules-Ferry, unpretending. CAFÉS. _Brasserie_, at the Grand-Hôtel; _Glacier_, Place Pichon; _Bellevue_, Place de la Marine.—_Casino Municipal_ (Pl. 8; C, 1), with a hall for balls and theatrical performances, etc. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. C, 2), Place Pichon.—BANKS (comp. p. 174). _Comp. Algérienne_, Rond-Point de la Douane; _Banque de Tunisie_, Rue du Marché; _Crédit Foncier et Agricole d’Algérie_, Place Colonel Vincent.—BOOKSELLERS. _Petit_, Place Pichon; _Berra_ (Imprimerie Rapide), Rue Jules-Ferry. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _W. Galea_, Rue Général-Logerot (cor. of Rue de l’Eglise).—LLOYD’S AGENT, _D. Cattan_. CABS (stand, Place Pichon). Drive ¾ (outside town 1) fr.; hour 1¾ (or 2), day 15–20 fr.; after 7 (in summer 9) p.m. one-half more.—MOTOR CARS at _Auvin’s_, Ave. Krantz. HALF-DAY. Visit to the _Museum_ (p. 367), the _Souks_ (p. 368), and the _Kasba_ (p. 369). _Susa_, French _Sousse_, Arabic _Sûssa_, (pop. 25,000, incl. 2800 Italians, 1500 French, and 900 Maltese), which has been since ancient times the chief seaport in the _Gulf of Hammamet_ (p. 364), is now the most important in Tunisia after Tunis and Sfax. It is also the capital of the _Sahel_ (p. 320). This coast-region, 20–25 M. in breadth, famed in the Roman age for its olive-oil, yields corn also, like the inland plain of Kairwan, although its rainfall is slight. According to the latest statistics the Sahel has 6 million olive-trees, 212,000 acres of barley, and about 4000 date-palms, which here, however, mostly yield date-wine (‘lagmi’) only. As yet the manufacturing industries are practically limited to the oil-mills and soap-works in the suburbs close to the sea; there are also several salt-works on the coast between Susa and Mehdia. [Illustration: SOUSSE] Susa, the Roman _Hadrumetum_, is one of the oldest Phœnician colonies on the coast of Tunisia. It appears for the first time in history at the end of the second Punic war, when it was Hannibal’s base of operations, and, after the battle of Zama (B. C. 202), his place of refuge. It escaped the fate of Carthage in 146 B. C., and it was again spared a century later, although it had sided with Pompey in the civil war. Under the later Roman empire Hadrumetum was remarkably prosperous, being the great outlet for the produce of the numerous and thickly peopled inland colonies as far as Tebessa. The fertility of its environs is indicated by the name given to it when re-colonized under Trajan (Colonia Concordia Ulpia Trajana Frugifera Hadrumentina). At that period the whole coast from Hadrumetum to El-Alia and Chebba (p. 370) was bordered with sumptuous country-houses. After its conquest by the Arabs (in 665, and again in 689) Susa, whose present name is said to date from the 8th cent., was outstripped by Kairwan and Mehdia. It afterwards suffered severely from the irruption of the Hilalides (p. 323) and its conquest by the Normans (1135), and in more modern times from its bombardment by the Spaniards (1537 and 1550), the French (1769), and the Venetians (1783). The HARBOUR, 35 acres in area, constructed in 1886–9, is tolerably sheltered by two moles and by the _Grande Jetée_ (737 yds.), the end of which is a splendid point of view. The _Digue Sud_ (Pl. D, 4, 5), where new harbour-works are in progress, is occupied by storehouses for the phosphates from Aïn-Moularès (p. 372). Between the N. mole and the dunes of _Bou-Jaffar_, near the Punic-Roman harbour (Kothon), of which scarcely a trace is left, lies the new town, dating from 1881. The busy parts of it are the Rond-Point de la Douane (Pl. D, 2), near the steamboat-quay, and the PLACE PICHON (Pl. C, D, 2), from which the Boul. René Millet leads to the station. Between the two small public gardens here is the *=Museum= (Pl. C, 2), a valuable collection of Punic, Roman, and early-Christian antiquities, mostly excavated of late in the Sahel. Adm. daily, except Mon., 8–11 and 2–4 (from 1st July to 15th Oct. 7–11 only). No catalogue. Curator, M. E. Gouvet, the town architect. The chief treasures of the museum are the numerous mosaics from Roman villas. In the centre of the hall is a large pavement from El-Alia, already freely restored in ancient times, representing an inundation of the Nile, with two-storied houses, a hippopotamus, a crocodile, etc.; by the entrance-wall, Neptune in a chariot with sea-horses, ducks, and fish; by the back-wall, procession of Bacchus, fishing scenes, a gazelle among edible animals and fruits (from a dining-room), the rape of Ganymede, a Nile scene, a basket with fish and lobsters; by the end-wall to the left, a peacock. By the right end-wall, an early-Christian mosaic, with the signature of the artist (Theodulos). By the back-wall are relics of wall-paintings and the marble statuette of a negro boy. By the entrance-wall, fragments of Roman reliefs in stucco: head of a bearded man, from El-Djem (2nd cent. A. D.); bust of Athena and female head in profile, from Susa (2nd cent.). By the left end-wall, a large relief, from Susa, of the triumphal procession of a Roman emperor, with a fettered warrior behind the chariot. The central presses contain (on the left) *Terracotta Figures from Susa (mother and child, Venus, female harpist, rider on a camel, etc.) and fine vessels in clay; (on the right) ancient coins; a fine bust in bronze and leaden rolls inscribed with curses (comp. p. 341), from Susa; bronze utensils, trinkets, implements in bone; Punic, Roman, and early-Christian lamps; mosaic of Virgil writing the Æneid. The old town, an irregular quadrilateral almost unspoiled by modern improvements, contains no buildings of outstanding importance, but its Oriental streets are strikingly picturesque. The many-towered *_Town Wall_, with its gallery of defence and its crowning battlements, was erected by the Aglabides (p. 323) in 827. From the Place Pichon we first visit the Place Bab el-Bahar (Pl. C, 2), named after the old ‘sea-gate’, almost always enlivened by a dense and busy throng. The main streets of this quarter are the Rue de France and Rue Général-Logerot, between which rises the _Chief Mosque_ (Pl. C, 2), built in the Aglabide period on a =⟙=-shaped plan (p. 376), with forecourts like the Gâmia Ibn Tulûn at Cairo (p. 451). In the secluded streets to the N.W. of the chief mosque, which are best reached from the Hôtel de Ville (Pl. 3, B, C, 2; new building in course of construction in the Ave. Mougeot, in front of the harbour) by the Rue Général-Riu and Rue du Kasr, rises the so-called =Kasr er-Ribât= (Pl. 5, C, 2; ‘castle-convent’), originally a Byzantine fortress, but used since the Aglabide period as a fortified monastery (Kasr al-Morabitîn, castle of the marabouts) for defenders of the faith against the infidels. It is now a humble medersa (p. 228). The building, modernized in the Turkish period, was originally square, with four round corner-towers and four at the sides. The domed vestibule contains fragments of the Byzantine edifice. In the interior (no admittance) there is a small mosque. The Rue Général-Sabatier on the W. side of the chief mosque, and the Rue de Paris, its continuation to the S., lead to the Rue el-Mar (Pl. B, 3, 4). Here, at the corner of the Rue de la Kasba (p. 369), rises a fine _Minaret_. At the end of the street is an interesting old _Dwelling House_, thoroughly restored in 1906, with horseshoe and multifoil arches. In the Rue de la Soffra (Pl. B, 3), above the Rue el-Mar, are the _Roman Cisterns_, which have been repeatedly restored since the middle ages (keys at the town architect’s; see p. 367). To the W. of the Rue de Paris are the picturesque =Souks= (p. 335). Immediately to the right, adjoining the Souk el-Rbâ (Pl. B, 3), the vaulted lane in the middle, and at the entrance to the Rue Bin el-Kaoui, is the _Kahwât el-Kubba_ (Pl. 4, B, 3; ‘domed café’), a small early-Moorish building with an interesting dome, four wall-niches, and windows partly built up. The Souk el-Caïd, continuing the Souk el-Rbâ, ascends to the _Bâb el-Gharbi_ (Pl. A, 3), the old Moorish W. gate.—In the Rue Dâr el-Bey, between the Souk el-Caïd and Rue de la Kasba, is the _Dâr el-Bey_ (Pl. 1; B, 3), an old palace of the beys of Tunis, now the Contrôle Civil and office of the caïd (driba). The Rue de la Kasba, or from Bâb el-Gharbi the boulevard outside the town, leads to the =Kasba= (Pl. A, B, 4; 131 ft. above the sea), the Moorish-Turkish citadel, built partly on the foundations of a Roman temple, now the barracks of the tirailleurs (adm. on presenting visiting-card; a sergeant acts as guide). The ‘Salle d’Honneur’ contains neo-Punic and Roman antiquities from the Camp Militaire (see below), including valuable mosaics (victorious racehorses, etc.) and early-Christian objects from the catacombs (see below). From the N. terrace of the Kasba, or from the tower (now lighthouse; not always open), there is a splendid *View of the town and harbour, of the Sahel, the whole bay of Hammamet, and of the inland Tunisian hill-country as far as Jebel Zaghouan. From the Bâb el-Gharbi a road leads to the W. to Kalaâ-Srira (p. 366) through the _Camp Militaire_ (Pl. A, 3, 4), whose huts stand partly on the ancient Punic burial-grounds. About ¾ M. from the gate are remains of a _Roman Burial Ground_; also, on a road diverging to the left a little before, extensive early-Christian _Catacombs_ (adm. 1 fr.), 3 min. to the S. of the highroad. FROM SUSA TO MEHDIA, 39½ M., railway in 3¼ hrs. (7 fr. 5, 5 fr. 35, 3 fr. 80 c.). The line runs, a little apart from the Sfax road (R. 59), at first to the S.W., through the beautiful hill-country of the _Sahel_, to (6 M.) _M’Saken_ (p. 378). 11 M. _Ouardenine_, where the new line to Sfax (see p. 378) diverges to the S. Our line sweeps round to the E. to (16 M.) _Djemmal_.—22 M. =Moknine= (181 ft.; Café-Restaurant de la Gare; pop. 9000, incl. 700 Jews and 70 Europeans) is noted for its Jewish goldsmiths’ work in an antique style like that of Djerba (p. 394). On the road to Monastir (p. 405), 3¾ M. to the N.W. of Moknine, are the ruins of the very ancient Phœnician-Roman seaport _Leptis Minor_, now _Lamta_ or _Lempta_ (remains of the old quays, cisterns, etc.), near which is the Punic necropolis _Henchir Meskhal_. The train skirts the _Sebkha de Moknine_. 27½ M. _Teboulba_ (146 ft.; pop. 2900), a small town amidst pretty orange and mandarin gardens, on the S. shore of the _Bay of Monastir_ (p. 405). Farther to the S.E. we come to (30 M.) _Bekalta_ (pop. 3400), a little town with the ruins of the seaport of _Thapsus_, famed for Cæsar’s victory (p. 322; large Roman cisterns, amphitheatre, quay of the Punic-Roman Kothon, Punic rock-tombs). 39½ M. =Mehdia= or _Mahdia_ (66 ft.; Hôt. de France, Grand-Hôtel, both very humble; Brit. cons. agent, G. Violante; pop. 10,000, incl. 600 Europeans), the ancient capital of Ifrikia (p. 322), founded in 916 as _Mahedia_ by the Fatimite Obeïd Allah el-Mahdi, on the site of the Phœnician-Roman _Zella_ (_Africa?_), is now a poor little seaport-town with hardly a trace of its former renown. Being centrally situated on the E. coast of Tunisia, on the narrow and once strongly fortified headland _Râs Mehdia_, the _Cape Africa_ of earlier writers, Mehdia, after the destruction of Kairwan (p. 372), developed into the most prosperous town and important harbour of Tunisia, but suffered severely from the transference of the seat of government to Tunis (p. 332). In war also it was often sorely tried. It was conquered by a Pisan fleet in 1087, occupied by the Normans in 1148–60, and captured by the knights of Malta in 1530, by Kheireddin’s (p. 221) former general Dragut in 1540, and in 1550 by the Spaniards, who on their retreat after the naval battle of Djerba (p. 394) blew up its fortifications. The chief sights are the picturesque ruins of the _Town Walls_ and the _Grande Mosquée_ of the 10th cent., formerly connected with a college, with its many arcades and a fine gateway-tower, resembling the Bâb Lella Rejana at Kairwan (p. 375). To the S.E. of the headland are remains of the _Kothon_, the Punic-Roman harbour, which in the middle ages was defended by two towers. The new harbour, the centre of the Sicilian allache (kind of sardine) fishery, lies to the S.W. of the headland. Near the town are large _Salt Marshes_. The _Necropolis_, 2 M. to the W., with several well-preserved Punic and neo-Punic rock-tombs, deserves a visit. About 1 M. from the town are extensive early-Christian _Catacombs_ (adm. 1 fr.).—Off Mehdia, in an ancient sunken ship, beautiful works of art, now at the Bardo Museum (see p. 344), have been recently discovered. A road (carr. 15 fr.) leads to the S.W. from Mehdia viâ (8 M.) _Ksour-Essaf_ to (26 M.) _El-Djem_ (p. 379). In the olive-clad hill-country to the S. of Mehdia, on the road to Sfax (p. 380), lie the ruins of the ancient seaport of _Sullectum_ (now _Salakta_), of _Acholla_ (p. 398; now _Biar el-Alia_), both with Punic burial-grounds, and of _Uzalis_ (now _El-Alia_). Farther on, beyond the _Râs Kapoudia_ (or _Râs Khadidja_), the ancient _Caput Vada_, where Belisarius (p. 322) landed in 533, lies the small seaport of =Chebba=, noted like El-Alia for its Roman mosaics. Near it are the ruins of _Ruspae_ (now _Henchir Sbia_). From Susa to _Kairwan_, see R. 58; to the ruins of central Tunisia and to _Metlaoui_, see R. 58; to _El-Djem_ and _Sfax_, see R. 59. 58. From Susa to Kairwan. 36 M. NARROW GAUGE RAILWAY in 2¼–2½ hrs. (6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 50 c.; return 9 fr. 10, 6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 90 c.). Passengers from Tunis (return-fares 30 fr. 25, 22 fr. 95, 16 fr. 25 c.) change at Kalaâ-Srira (Rail. Restaurant). From Susa to (5 M.) _Kalaâ-Srira_, see p. 366. The line runs, nearly in the same direction as the Susa and Tebessa (p. 315) Roman road, to the S.W., on the right bank of the _Oued Laya_ (p. 366), to the (8 M.) _Réservoir_ of the Susa waterworks. At (10 M.) _Oued-Laya_, a small oasis of fruit-trees and vegetables, the olive-zone of the Sahel ends. 17½ M. _Kroussiah-Sahali_. 23 M. _Sidi el-Hani_, not far from the ruins of _Vicus Augusti_ (_?_). To the left, farther on, we obtain a glimpse at the _Sebkha Sidi el-Hani_, 25 by 12½ M., the largest salt-lake of central Tunisia. To the right, a little farther on, beyond a chain of flat hills, is revealed a striking view of the vast _Plain of Kairwan_, enclosed by distant mountains, with the town of _Kairwan_ in the background. The low ground, through which the _Oued Hathob_ (p. 320), _Oued Merguellil_, and many smaller streams descend from the Sahara Atlas and its plateaux to the _Lac de Kelbia_ (p. 320; not visible from the train), is often flooded after the winter rains. It is inhabited almost exclusively by the Arab-like nomadic tribes of the _Djlass_ or _Zlass_. The train runs through plantations of Indian figs. 30½ M. _Aïn-Ghrasesia._ FROM AÏN-GHRASESIA TO METLAOUI, 182 M., railway in 13 hrs. (fares 32 fr. 85, 24 fr. 95, 17 fr. 55 c.; from Susa 38 fr. 35, 29 fr. 10, 20 fr. 50 c.). This new railway, diverging here to the S.W., affords the easiest access to the ruins of Sbeïtla, Kasserine, Thelepte, and Feriana in central Tunisia. It runs over a low saddle between the Sebkha Sidi el-Hani (see p. 370) and the marshy plain of the _Oued Hathob_, and across the bleak plain of Kairwan, to the S.W. borders of the Sahara Atlas, which it reaches at the foot of _Jebel Touila_, with its zinc and lead mines. 47½ M. _Hadjeb el-Aïoun_, the ancient _Masclianae_, on the _Oued Zourzour_, is the chief market (Tues.) for the _Oulad Sendassen_, a branch of the Djlass tribe (p. 370), and, like the following stations, possesses an alfa-depot. Branch-line to _Sbiba_, the ancient _Sufes_, projected. Farther on we pass the foot of _Jebel Hadjeb el-Aïoun_ to (58½ M.) _Djilma_ (1152 ft.), the Roman _Cilma_, on a tributary of the Hathob, here called _Oued Djilma_, We now enter, to the W., the valley of the _Oued Menasseur_, at the foot of _Jebel Mrilah_ (4508 ft.) and _Jebel Sbeïtla_, inhabited by the _Madjeur_ tribe (p. 362). 76 M. =Sbeïtla= (1762 ft.; hotel), near the extensive ruins of _Sufetula_, on a plateau on the right bank of the _Oued Sbeïtla_, as the Oued Menasseur is named here. It was a poor castellum in the time of Augustus, but after the 2nd cent, became one of the most important junctions of different routes, and in the 5–7th cent. attained its prime under the Vandals and the Byzantines. In 645 it became the residence of Gregory, the governor, who had rebelled against Byzantium; it was soon after attacked by the Arabs under Abdallah ibn Saâd (p. 322), and in 648 it was entirely destroyed. The chief boast of Sbeïtla is the *_Capitol_ (comp. p. 288), rising in the midst of the ruins. The temple-court, once used by the Byzantines as a fortress and now destroyed save a few fragments of the limestone pavement, was entered by a three-arched propylæum, bearing an inscription in honour of Antoninus Pius (138–61). The chief temple was pseudo-peripteral, with composite columns; there are still traces of the steps up to it and of the portico. The three cellæ are well preserved, especially at the back, and have a transverse wall, instead of a semicircular apse, adjoining the Corinthian smaller temples. We may note also a fine _Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Constantine, the remains of a _Byzantine Church_ incorporated with a temple, to the N. of the capitol, a _Chapel_ built into a smaller temple, to the E., and the _Aqueduct_ across the Oued Sbeïtla. Higher up is the spring of the new water-conduit, 103 M. long, which supplies the town of Sfax. Passing many other ruins we come to the _Plaine du Foussana_ (about 2650 ft.), one of the upper districts of the Oued Hathob, here called _Foussana_, at the S. foot of _Jebel Semmama_ (4307 ft.; with the zinc-mines of _Aïn-Khamouda_ on its N. side). Then a descent to (95 M.) =Kasserine= (2382 ft.), the ancient _Cillium_, a flourishing town from the 2nd cent. A.D. under the name of _Colonia Cillitana_, now a poor village with a caravanserai on the Thala and Feriana road (see p. 362 and below), not far from the chalky limestone masses of _Jebel Chambi_ (5217 ft.; p. 320). We may here visit the ruins of the Roman _Arch_ and of the _Tomb of the Petronii_, and above all the interesting _Mausoleum of T. Flavius Secundus_, of the time of Trajan. This is a kind of tower in three stories, in the Phœnician fashion, terminating in a pyramid; the 110 bombastic lines of the inscription correspond with the number of years attained by the deceased. A little to the S., on the _Oued Derb_, are remains of a Roman _Barrage_,—The landscape farther on, where Roman ruins still abound, assumes more and more the Sahara character. 116 M. =Thelepte= (hotel) is the station for the ruins of the ancient town of that name, now called _Medinet el-Khedima_ (‘the old town’), which in the 2nd–4th cent. A.D. was the chief place on the road between Tebessa (p. 315) and Gafsa (p. 383). Large thermæ, ruins of early-Christian basilicas, and a Byzantine fortress with many towers are to be seen here. The extensive Roman _Quarries_ are interesting. 118½ M. =Feriana= (2628 ft.; Hôt. Hostelier; Restaurant Bernard; pop. 1200), an oasis of corn, fruit, and vegetables on the _Oued Feriana_, in the midst of a sandy plain, has a new and pretty mosque.—Thence we cross the _Plateau de Msila_ (2930 ft.), overgrown with alfa, and descend to (134 M.) _Maâjen Bel-Abbès_, with the ruins of a Roman town, 28 M. to the N.W. of Gafsa. 141 M. _Sidi Bou-Beker_. 153½ M. _Henchir Souatir_ (about 1640 ft.). A short branch-line diverges hence to _Aïn-Moularès_ (1806 ft.), a caravanserai near the great beds of phosphate on the Algerian frontier. 166 M. _Tabeditt_ is connected by railway with (9½ M.) _Redeyef_, which has rich phosphate deposits.—Beyond Tabeditt the train runs through the valley of the _Oued Seldja_ (p. 386), here inhabited by the _Oulad Sidi-Abid_ nomads, to (183 M.) _Metlaoui_ (p. 386). The KAIRWAN LINE runs to the W. over the bleak steppe, often passing the tents and the browsing camels and cattle of the Djlass (p. 370). We cross the Oued Hathob, here called _Zeroud_. To the right, especially in the afternoon, we have a delightful *View of the white houses of Kairwan, with its countless domes and towering minarets. Nearing the station we see extensive fields of cactus and large alfa-stacks. 36 M. =Kairwan.=—HOTELS (comp. p. 324). _Splendid Hotel_ (Pl. a; C, 5), R. 3, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, omn. ½ fr.; _Hôt. de France_ (Pl. b; C, 5), R. 2½–4, B. ¾, déj. or D. 3, pens. 7½ fr.; both in the Place Carnot, tolerable.—_Café de France_, Rue Massicault.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. C, D, 4), Rue de la Poste.—PHYSICIAN. _Dr. Santschi_ (a Swiss), Grande Rue, near the Bâb Djelladin. In HALF-A-DAY, if pressed for time, we may visit the _Grande Rue_, the _Souks_, the _Sidi Okba Mosque_, and the _Mosquée du Barbier_. Tickets for the mosques are obtained at the office of the Contrôle Civil (p. 373) or at the hotels. The overseers of the mosques mostly speak Arabic only. The guides, who are quite unnecessary, are very importunate. Travellers in haste should endeavour to secure a cab (as yet only one), drive to the Contrôle Civil, the Barber’s Mosque, and back to the Porte de Tunis (p. 377), and there begin their inspection of the town. _Kairwan_ or _Kairouan_ (243 ft.; pop. 22,000, incl. about 800 Europeans), the oldest capital of Ifrikia, is a town of purely Arabian type, the most curious in Tunisia. The old town is an irregular rectangle, enclosed by a wall 33 ft. high and 2 M. in length; the large W. suburb, also purely Oriental, is the _Faubourg des Djlass_, called after the nomadic tribe of that name (p. 370); to the S. is a new suburb near the station. The numerous mosques and zaouïas date mostly from the Turkish period. The town holds market for the extensive plain of Kairwan, and the souks are still important, though manufactures have declined. The climate (p. 321) is extremely hot in summer. Kairwan was founded by Sidi Okba ben-Nâfi (p. 322) in 671, and was appointed by the caliphs to be the seat of the governors of Ifrikia. As the capital of the great Aglabide empire (p. 323) and the seat of the oldest high school in N. Africa, it was hardly less important than Cordova (p. 68), and the sumptuous mosque of Sidi Okba rapidly became the favourite goal of pilgrims from E. Barbary. After the Hilalides (p. 323) had destroyed the greater part of the town in 1048 it was for centuries almost deserted, notwithstanding the favour shown to it by Abd el-Mûmen (p. 95), the Hafsides, and the Merinides (p. 95). In the early 16th cent. several quarters still lay in ruins. It was not till the Turkish period that the sacred town, ‘one of the four gates of Paradise’, which neither Christian nor Jew durst enter, again became the religious centre of the land. To spend one’s last days within its walls, and to be buried in hallowed earth outside its gates, seemed to believers the height of bliss. Its sacred character, which however did not prevent the beys of Tunis from bombarding and partly destroying the rebellious town, was finally lost when the mosques were desecrated by the entry of the French troops in 1881. [Illustration: KAIROUAN] In the centre of the S. suburb, almost exclusively inhabited by Europeans, is the PLACE CARNOT (Pl. C, 5), with its small _Jardin Public_. On its W. side the Rue du Contrôle, with the building of the _Contrôle Civil_ (Pl. C, 5; see p. 372), leads to the N. to the Place Mérabet (Pl. C, 4) and the S. gate of the town-walls, which were largely rebuilt after the bombardment of 1740. On emerging from the Rue du Contrôle we see immediately to the left the _Zaouïa Sidi ben-Aïssa_ (Pl. C, 5), where the hideous castigations of the Aïssaoua sect, originally Moroccan, are held on Friday afternoons. A little to the N.E., in the Rue de la Poste, is the _M’sala Darb et-Tamar_ (Pl. D, 4; no admittance), a large open place of prayer for great Mohammedan festivals, with an underground cistern for rain-water. The main street of the old town, between the _Bâb Djelladin_ (Pl. C, 4; ‘Porte des Peaussiers’), or S. gate, now partly demolished, and the N. gate, the Porte de Tunis (p. 377), is the GRANDE RUE (Pl. C, B, 4, 3), officially called Rue du Général-Saussier, enlivened by a picturesque crowd and numerous small shops. In the Rue Sidi el-Guerian, the second side-street on the right, is the zaouïa of =Sidi Abid el-Guerian= (Pl. C, 4), an elegant building of the Turkish period (16th cent.?). The handsome portal, with the black and white striped decoration so often recurring in the other buildings, leads into a vestibule with tiled walls and stucco decoration, beyond which are a fine colonnaded court in two stories (with the sumptuous tomb of the saint on the left) and a small mosque. Adjacent on the left is the court of the Medersa (p. 228), where the capitals of the columns are remarkable for their richness and variety. Farther on in the Grande Rue are several mosques of little architectural interest. The gateway on the right, halfway between the two town-gates, leads to the =Souks= (Pl. C, 3, 4). The vaulted main street here, the _Souk des Selliers_ and _Souk des Cordonniers_, is intersected by two vaulted side-streets, the _Souk des Parfums_ and _Souk des Tapis_. The latter, for the sale of carpets, woollen rugs (margums), etc., has declined since the vegetable dyes have been superseded by the aniline. The farther part of the main street is the _Souk des Gandourahs_, ending at the quiet Place Finot (Pl. C, 3). To the S.E. from the Place Finot the short Rue Moulei-Taïeb leads to the— =Djamâa Tleta Biban= (Pl. C, D, 3; Mosquée des Trois-Portes), in the Rue Hassin Lalenni. It dates from the time of Obeïd Allah el-Mahdi (p. 369), being the only early-Moorish building in Kairwan besides the Sidi Okba mosque, but was much altered in 1440 and 1509. The peculiar façade in three sections, with blind arcades (possessing Byzantine capitals) on the lower story, is composed above of older slabs with geometrical ornamentation. The interior is uninteresting. We follow the Rue de la Mosquée des Trois-Portes to the N.E., then the Rue Zoughar to the right, and at the end of it a street to the left to the town-wall. To the left, in 2 min. more, we reach the Place de Sousse, with the _Bâb el-Khoukha_ (Pl. D, 2, 3), the E. town-gate, an interesting double gateway, with two fine Byzantine capitals on the inner archway. From the N. end of the Place de Sousse the broad Rue de la Grande-Mosquée leads to the— *=Sidi Okba Mosque= (_Grande Mosquée_; Pl. D, 1, 2), one of the oldest in the world, and, next to the Kairwin mosque at Fez, the most important in Barbary. After the mosques of Mecca and Medina and the Dome of the Rock at Jerusalem (p. 477), this has ever been deemed the greatest sanctuary of Islam. The poverty of the oldest building, founded by Sidi Okba ben-Nâfi in 671, is evidenced by the mud-built walls of the old mihrâb (p. 377). A new building was first erected in 703 by Hassan ibn en-Nôman (p. 322), the conqueror of Carthage. The plan seems to have been suggested by that of the oldest Egyptian mosques (such as the mosque of Amru, p. 460), combined with that of the Damous el-Karita (p. 349), while the ruins of Carthage, Susa, and Sbeïtla (p. 371) supplied the building-materials. Of a second new building by the governor Bichr ibn Safuan, in 724, the fortress-like lower story of the minaret still exists. A further extension was made in 821 by the Aglabide Sijadet Allah I. The central story of the minaret, the arcades of the quadrangle, the Bâb el-Behou (p. 376), and the last enlargement of the sanctuary itself are due to the Aglabide Ibrahim ibn-Ahmed (d. 875), who erected also the fine dome of the mihrâb, caused the mihrâb-wall to be decorated by Bagdad artists, and presented the superb Friday pulpit. The present maksûra (seat of the caliph) dates from the time of the Zirite Abû Teminn el-Muizz (p. 443). The decay of the mosque after the irruption of the Hilalides seems to have been first arrested by Abd el-Mûmen and the Hafside El-Mostanser Billah (p. 332). The latter, in 1284, caused most of the outer gateways to be rebuilt. At a later period we hear of restorations by Mohammed Murad Bey (p. 335) and Hussein Ali ben-Turki (p. 323). In 1828–42 the insecure state of the mosque necessitated the rebuilding of the external walls on the N.W. and N.E. sides and the restoration of the minaret, the Bâb el-Behou, and the arcades of the court. In 1872 the nave and its two adjoining aisles also were restored, but with little taste, and since 1895 the French government has bestowed its attention on the transept and the side-portals. The immense edifice, an irregular quadrilateral of 136 by about 78–82 yds., covers an area of over 2¼ acres. The fortress-like OUTER WALL, with its huge buttresses, has four doors on both its longer sides. These have lost their bronze mountings and some of them their cupolas. Above the S.E. wall rises the dome of the mihrâb chapel and above the N.W. wall the minaret. We first walk round the whole enclosure. From the Rue de la Grande-Mosquée a short street leads to the right, past the new _Court of Ablution_ (comp. p. 63), to a large open space adjoining the S.E. end of the mosque, where there are numerous underground silos or granaries. From the walls here project the buildings of the mihrâb chapel and the maksûra, with the Bâb el-Imâm (p. 377). A few paces farther, at the beginning of the ‘Boulevard Ali Bey’, a poor street on the N.E. side of the precincts, is the massive square gateway tower of *_Bâb Lella Rejana_, adjoined by the insignificant domed tomb of that saint. The front half of the gateway, restored in 1828, is painted like the minaret with ‘giant-spiders’ to ward off snakes and scorpions, and is adorned below the battlements with blind horseshoe arcades. The perforated stucco decoration of the arch-recesses of the side-portals is one of the earliest examples of such work. The long inscription over the door extols caliph El-Mostanser-Billah (p. 374), the builder. Passing the next three gates we come to the N. angle of the precincts, where their fortress-like character is most apparent. Beside the embrasures of the minaret (p. 376) are seen cannon-ball marks made during the bombardments of the 18th century. The S.W. wall of the mosque, in the Rue de la Grande-Mosquée, which we now regain, is most in conformity with the original plan. Most noteworthy here are the first gateway-tower, near the N.W. angle, and the _Bâb es-Sultân_, the last gate, through which led the shortest way from the caliph’s palace to the maksûra (comp. p. 377). The domes, now adorned with the Turkish crescent, still possess their girdle of battlements and have their old cornice of bricks placed crosswise. The present ENTRANCE GATEWAY (visitors knock) is one of the small middle gates beside the Bâb es-Sultân. We descend a few steps to the court (now below the level of the street), where the irregular plan of the building is most distinctly seen. The *COURT is bordered on the N.W. side by a single colonnade and on the other sides by double arcades, which on the S.E. side form the porch of the sanctuary. In contrast to the orange-court at Cordova (p. 70), it is much larger than the sanctuary itself. The marble pavement is modern. The perforated stone in the centre of the court conducts the rain-water from the gutters on the flat roofs into a filtering-apparatus and into three _Cisterns_ below. The old _Court of Ablution_ (Ancienne Mida; comp. above), near the W. angle, and the rooms adjoining the minaret are now used as lumber-rooms. The _Minaret_, 128 ft. high, an extremely massive tower in three stories, rises in the centre of the N.W. wall, and not in the central axis of the building as is usual. The substructures have been built of Roman stones and the doorway framed with antique decorative slabs. The square lowest story and narrower middle story are crowned with peculiar battlements with small embrasures. Above the three metal balls (p. 195) of the present dome is perched the Turkish crescent. The *ASCENT OF THE MINARET (127 easy steps) should not be omitted. On the lower platform we note the muezzin’s hut (p. 180). The upper platform commands a superb survey of the many-domed town, of the Barber’s Mosque (p. 378), of the large cemeteries to the W., and of the great plain of Kairwan, bounded by Jebel Trozza and other distant hills. In the centre of the porch of the sanctuary is the square _Bâb el-Behou_ (‘pavilion-gate’) with a great horseshoe archway and pinnacled summit. The drum and dome, formerly resembling the dome of the mihrâb, were rebuilt in 1828. The timber ceiling of the adjoining arcades is now partly replaced by brick-vaulting. The *_Main Door_ of the sanctuary, in cedar-wood, also was renewed in 1828 by wood-carvers from Sfax (p. 380). The wings are beautifully enriched with network, rosettes, and arabesques (p. 445). Over the door are a frieze with an inscription and another adorned with mashrebîyeh or lattice-work, and above these is a pediment decorated with charming scroll-work. The side-doors, also in cedar-wood, and partly modern, have a simpler geometric ornamentation, resembling that of the maksûra screen (p. 377). The *INTERIOR of the sanctuary, in the form of a so-called Egyptian cross (=⟙=), with a broad transept at the back, has a nave and sixteen aisles, with eight rows of arcades. In the axis of the Bâb el-Behou, above the intersection of the nave and transept, rises the dome of the mihrâb-chapel, in front of the mihrâb-recess. The timber ceilings of the aisles, dating from different centuries, still retain interesting traces of their old painting. The effect of the nave is marred by the new braces and the clumsy modern stucco-decoration of the upper walls. The candelabra are ancient, but of little artistic value. The old pavement has disappeared and so too have the tapestries once used for festivals. The somewhat colourless aspect of the interior is compensated by the beauty of the columns, which here, as well as in the court, merit careful study. The shafts, as at Cordova, are of surprisingly various materials: white and coloured marble, onyx, granite, porphyry, and variegated breccia. Besides the few Moorish capitals in the more modern parts of the mosque, we note Roman, early-Christian, Byzantine, and even Punic-Ionic forms. Owing to their unequal lengths some of the columns have been raised while others are partly buried in the earth. The *_Mihrâb Chapel_, unfortunately thickly whitewashed, is specially noteworthy for its sumptuous decoration and the peculiar construction of its dome. The chief enrichment of the wall consists of *Fayence with gold lustre, the oldest mediæval relic of this art-industry, the origin of which seems to be indicated by the name of ‘tchini’ (China tiles) given to it by native writers. The two beautiful Byzantine columns which bear the archivolts of the mihrâb are said to have come from Carthage. Through the marble screen of the niche, now disfigured by painting, we obtain a glimpse at the ancient mihrâb of the time of Sidi Okba (p. 374). The **_Mimbar_, or Friday pulpit, unfortunately very tastelessly restored in 1907, adjoining the mihrâb-recess on the right, is one of the earliest and most beautiful creations of early-Moorish art. On the model of the Byzantine ivory carving, its rectangular sections are most charmingly enriched with a great variety of scroll-work and arabesques. The material is sycamore-wood. The present *_Maksûra_ (see p. 71), to the right of the pulpit, seems to be now enclosed with fragments of an older screen of the caliph’s maksûra and parts of the wooden screen of a former maksûra for the ladies of the court (to the left of the pulpit). The central sections, destroyed in part, with their plain geometric decoration, are framed with graceful arabesques. The long Cufic inscription under the pinnacles of the summit records the name of the founder (p. 374) amidst verses from the Koran. At the back of the Maksûra is a *Door, framed with late-Roman marble ornamentation and tastefully embellished with iron nails and two knockers, leading into a corridor. The side-room on the left, with another fine old door, contains a few relics of the once famous Kairwan _Library_. The small door in the external wall is the _Bâb el-Imâm_ (‘gate of the preacher’). We now return by the Rue el-Kadraouine (Pl. D, C, 2, 3) to Place Finot (p. 373) and the Souks; or we follow the town-wall, through the Rue Sidi Abd el-Kader (Pl. D, C, 2) and past the zaouïa _Sidi Abd el-Kâder el-Djilâni_ (p. 183) and the _Kasba_ (Pl. B, C, 2; barracks), and so regain the Grande Rue. At the N. end of the Grande Rue is the new _Porte de Tunis_ (Pl. B, 3; adjoining the fine old gateway, adorned with antique columns), leading into the PLACE DE TUNIS, the outer market-place, a haunt of reciters and jugglers, with a large _Fondouk_ (see p. 281). From the Place de Tunis we may now walk to the N., past the pretty park of the _Pépinière_ (Pl. B, 1), to the (10 min.) _Bassins des Aglabides_, two round reservoirs, the smaller of which was once used for filtering purposes. Both have been utilized since 1885 for the conduit of Cherichera, 18¾ M. long. A road, much used by caravans, leads from the Place de Tunis, past the dilapidated _Feskia du Saïd_ (Pl. A, 2; a rain-water basin), of the time of Sijadet Allah I., and between cactus-hedges, to the N.W. to (¼ hr.) the so-called— *=Mosquée du Barbier= (beyond Pl. A, 2), the finest building of the Turkish period. This mosque, which has long been regarded as the second great sanctuary of Kairwan, lies most picturesquely among low hills and is surrounded with white tombs of saints and Moslem cemeteries. It is dedicated to Abû Zemaâ el-Beloui, the traditional friend (sahâb) and barber of the prophet. The extensive group of buildings, with several medersas annexed, dates chiefly from the 17–19th centuries. The outer gate leads into a low forecourt. In the corner, between the two main entrances, rises the handsome minaret (*View), in four stories, with blind arcades in the two lower, and crowned with pinnacles and the muezzin’s turret. The large W. portal, adorned like the minaret with Byzantine columns, opens into the first inner court, on whose W. side rises the plain mosque itself with its nave and two aisles. A remarkably beautiful domed chamber leads into the second *Inner Court, a perfect gem, with its slender little marble columns, old wall-tiles, rich stucco-decoration, and modern soffited ceilings. A superb marble portal of Italian workmanship (18th cent.) leads to the alleged tomb of Sidi Sahâb, which is railed in and surrounded with valuable old Kairwan carpets besides much European frippery. From the domed chamber a *Colonnade to the left and another ante-room, also embellished with fine mural tiles, lead us back to the outer court. The large _Moslem Cemeteries_, which extend round the _Faubourg des Djlass_ (p. 372) from the Barber’s Mosque all the way to the S. suburb, still contain some very old tombstones. They afford a beautiful view of Kairwan, especially by evening light. The =Djamâa Amor Abeda= (Pl. A, 3, 4; popularly called Mosquée des Sabres), whose five huge domes of mediæval type dominate the poor streets of the Faubourg des Djlass, was built by the saint of that name (d. 1871), formerly a smith, with alms collected for the purpose. 59. From Susa to Sfax. Till the opening of the new railway (81½ M.) in 1911, which diverges from the line to Mehdia at Ouardenine (p. 369), this excursion must be made by ROAD (79½ M.). Motor-omnibus or the Bône-Guélma Co., starting from the station, in 6½ hrs. (in the reverse direction 7 hrs.), fare 7 fr. 50 c.; at El-Djem, halfway (fare 3 fr. 75 c.), the ½ hr. allowed for visiting the amphitheatre barely suffices. Seats should be secured beforehand; outside (impériale) preferable in fine weather. Diligence at night, in 14 hrs., fare 12 fr. 90 c. (to El-Djem in 6½ hrs., 6 fr.), uncomfortable.—STEAMERS to Sfax, comp. R. 64. _Susa_, see p. 366. The road leads round the town on the side next the sea. It then ascends through the new industrial and villa quarters, and past the _Jewish_ and the _Christian Cemeteries_ (on the left), to the hill-country of the _Sahel_ (p. 366). A little to the left lie the thriving villages of _Zaouïet-Sousse_ and _Ksiba_, and to the right _Messadine_. The soil is extremely fertile; the road is bordered with huge olive-trees and tall cactus-hedges. To the right, also off the road, lies (7½ M.) =M’Saken= (154 ft.; Hôt. de France; pop. 10,000), a station on the Mehdia line (p. 369), whence a road leads to Kairwan (p. 372). The country beyond M’Saken, one of the most fertile parts of central Tunisia in ancient times, has become a mere desert since the Arab irruptions. In the midst of the dreary steppe, scantily overgrown with alfa, appear a few corn-fields and olive-plantations, the first signs of renewed colonization. Here and there are seen Arabs with their camels, belonging to the _Souassi_ tribe, now partly settled on the land, descendants of the Hilalides (p. 323). In the distance to the right, beyond _Bourdjine_, the only village before El-Djem, appears the _Sebkha Sidi el-Hani_ (p. 370). 23 M. _Col de Koudiat el-Goulal_ (525 ft.), the highest point on the road. We are now in sight of the amphitheatre of _El-Djem_, whose enormous pile dominates the landscape for miles around. 40 M. =El-Djem= (361 ft.; Hôt. de l’Amphithéâtre, R. 2–3, B. ¾, déj. 3, D. 3¼ fr., humble, charges should be ascertained), a poor Arab village with a few olive and cactus plantations, is the site of _Thysdrus_, which in the late-Roman age was one of the most thriving towns near the E. coast and the junction of seven roads. About ¼ M. from the inn and the post-office (halting-place of the motor-omnibus) is the **_Amphitheatre_, the grandest Roman structure in Barbary (first half of the 3rd cent.), noted in history also as a fortress. Here in 689, after the defeat of the united Byzantines and Berbers by Zoheir ibn Kaïs (p. 322), the prophetess (kahina) Damia, the legendary leader of the Berbers, is said to have still defied her enemies. In 1685 the building, still almost intact, where many a rebel had sought refuge, was blown up on the W. side by order of Mohammed Murad Bey (p. 335). Since then it has served the villagers of El-Djem as a quarry. The topmost story, consisting of an attica with Corinthian pilasters, the tiers of seats, and the stone steps have gradually disappeared. The ascent (not without the Arab keeper; ½ fr.) is very toilsome. The remaining three stories are 108 ft. high; the groundfloor is now buried 10 ft. below the surface. The arches (once 60) of the lower and upper stories are adorned with Corinthian mural columns; the central story has composite capitals. The axes are 164 and 136 yds. respectively; the arena where the gladiators and wild beasts fought, unearthed in 1909, with its huge substructures (comp. p. 348), measures 71 by 57 yds. (This is the fifth in size of Roman amphitheatres: Colosseum 205 by 170, the Capuan 186 by 153, that of Italica near Seville 170 by 147, and that of Verona 167 by 134 yds.). Recent excavations outside the village, whose dirty streets flank the amphitheatre on two sides, have revealed vestiges of _Thermae_ (about 10 min. to the N.W.), of _Cisterns_, a _Circus_, and a small older _Amphitheatre_. In the forecourt of a kubba, 6 min. to the S.W., are placed several large Roman capitals. Road from El-Djem to _Mehdia_, see p. 370. We again traverse a very monotonous region, without a single village. On the left is the _Sebkha m’taa el-Djem_, a salt-lake. Beyond it lies the hill-country of the Arab _Metellit_ tribe, belonging to the _Terres Sialines_ (see below). Beyond (61½ M.) _Ste. Juliette_ we enter the olive-zone of Sfax. 71½ M. _Kubba Sidi-Salah_, on the _Oued Sidi Salah_, which flows largely underground and now partly supplies Sfax with water. Lastly the road leads between garden-walls built of mud and fringed with Indian figs and through the suburb of _Moulinville_ to— 79½ M. =Sfax.=—The RAILWAY STATION (Pl. C, D, 2), for Metlaoui (R. 60) and for the new line to Susa (see p. 378), is close to the sea, ¼ M. from the hotels or from the quay. Here at present the motor-omnibus from Susa stops. ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. R. 64). The steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (office, Boul. de France 13), the Società Nazionale (office near Douane), and the Navigation Mixte (office, Rue Emile Loubet) moor at the quay. Harbour-dues 4 or 3 fr.; cabs, see below. HOTELS (comp. p. 324). _Hôt. de France_ (Pl. a; B, 3), Rue Victor-Hugo 4, R. 3–6, B. 1, déj. or D. 3, pens. 9–10 fr., plain; _Hôt. Moderne_ (Pl. b; B, 3), same street, No. 6, R. 3–5, B. 1, D. 8, pens. 7½–10 fr.—CAFÉS. _Cristal_ and _Glacier_, Boul. de France. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Pl. 6; C, 3), Avenue de Paris. BANKS (comp. p. 174). _Banque de l’Algérie_, Rue Michaud; _Comp. Algérienne_ (No. 32) and _Comptoir d’Escompte de Paris_ (No. 15), Ave. de Paris.—BOOKSELLERS. _Chabert_, Rue de la République 51; _Revol_, same street, No. 17. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _S. Leonardi_.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _E. Carleton_.—ENGLISH PHYSICIAN, _Dr. P. Buckwell_. CABS (stands near the Marché aux Céréales, p. 381, and in the Rue de Thina, Pl. B, C, 3). Drive within a radius of 2 kilomètres (1¼ M.) from Bâb Diwân, ½ fr.; with two horses, ¾ or 1 fr.; per hr. (one horse) 1 fr. 30, (two horses) 1 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 70 c.; half-day (6 hrs.) 5½, 7, or 9 fr.; day (12 hrs.) 9, 12, or 15 fr. DILIGENCE OFFICE (p. 173) in the theatre (Pl. C, 3).—MOTOR CARS, for excursions, at _Garage Pasquier_, Rue Lamoricière (100–150 fr. per day); _Central Garage_, Rue Charles-Quint. The SIGHTS may be visited in 2–3 hrs. _Sfax_, Arabic _Sfakês_ (pop. 70,000, incl. 6400 Europeans, of whom 3100 are Italians and 1300 Maltese), the second-largest town in Tunisia, is also its chief seaport next to Tunis. It lies on the shallow N. shore of the _Gulf of Gabes_, adjacent to the _Kerkenna Banks_ and opposite the _Kerkenna Islands_ (p. 405). Many of the natives live in small houses outside the town, amidst the beautiful orchards which girdle Sfax for nearly 10 M. around. Beyond the gardens lies the olive-zone, like them artificially irrigated, covering some 500 acres, and numbering three million trees. It lies chiefly in the _Terres Sialines_, a region named after the Siala family, but now owned by the state. After the Arab incursions it became a mere desert, but modern cultivation has restored its ancient prosperity. Sfax owes its rapid rise to the export of olive-oil, almonds, figs, and vegetables from the interior, dates from the Djerid (p. 386), alfa from the steppes, of which cables are made in the Kerkenna Islands, and above all to its trade in the phosphates of Metlaoui (p. 386) and Redeyef (p. 372). It is important also as a fish-market and as a mart for the sponges of the bay, especially from the Kerkenna banks. In the sponge-fishery Greeks, Maltese, and Sicilians vie with the Kerkenna islanders. [Illustration: SFAX] Sfax, the ancient _Taparura_, which was one of the smallest seaports on the bay of Gabes, is of little historical note. In the first half of the 12th cent. it fell, along with Mehdia (p. 369), into the hands of the Normans (p. 323), and in 1539 it was occupied for a time by the Spaniards, who possessed also the Kerkenna Islands. Its harbour was much benefited by the French occupation of Algeria, as the caravans from the Sudan thereafter went to Sfax, Gabes, and Tripoli (p. 406). It was not till 1832 that Christian merchants were allowed to settle outside the Bâb Diwân, the sea-gate. When the French arrived in 1881 Sfax, like Kairwan, was a camp of the warlike nomads of central and S. Tunisia, owing to whose resistance the town had to suffer a bombardment and to pay a war-indemnity of 15 million francs. For that disaster and for the decline of its trade with inland Africa the colonization of the environs and the improvement of the harbour (1895–7) have since made amends. From the open roads at the end of the Kerkenna inlet, where larger vessels formerly had to anchor, a _Harbour Canal_, 2952 yds. in length and 44 in breadth, now leads into the =Bassin= (Pl. D, E, 4) of 25 acres, adjoining which is the _Bassin des Torpilleurs_ (Pl. C, D, 4). On the quay bordering the town, 492 yds. long, are the _Douane_ and two large warehouses. On the N.E. quay are the stores of the phosphate railway, whence ships are loaded by means of a long shoot. The _Chenal pour petits Bateaux_ connects the main harbour with the small _Darse_ (Pl. B, 4), the harbour for fishing-boats. The mud-banks between the new harbour and the old quay (now Boul. de France) have been artificially raised and converted into an area of 50 acres for building. The projected new quarter, with its straight and shadeless streets, has made little progress as yet. Between it and the older suburb, built since 1832, are the Avenue de Paris and the palm-avenue of the BOULEVARD DE FRANCE (Pl. B, C, 3), where most of the public buildings are situated. In the Ave. de Paris are the Contrôle Civil (Pl. 1; C, 3), the Post Office (Pl. 6; C, 3), and the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. C, 3). The last has a small museum (open daily except Sun.) containing Roman antiquities, mostly from Thænæ (p. 383). Among the mosaics are fishing scenes, Arion on the dolphin, and Pugilists. Beyond the E. end of the Boul. de France and the Place Carnot (Pl. C, 2) lies the _Jewish Quarter_. The Boul. de France leads to the W., past the Rue de la République, the chief business street of the new quarters, to the _Marché aux Céréales_ (Pl. B, 3), which may be reached also by the Rue Victor-Hugo. Near this, adjoining the harbour of the fishing-boats, is the _Marché_ (Pl. B, 3, 4) for pottery, where the large ‘jarres d’huile’, made chiefly by the Metellits (p. 380), resemble the ancient amphoræ. The picturesque but not over-clean old town is still enclosed by its battlemented *=Town Walls=, with their numerous towers and bastions. The fortifications next the sea, the _Kasba_ (Pl. A, 3; barracks, no admittance) and the _Bordj en-Nar_ (Pl. C, 2), were the chief objects of attack by the French ships and troops in 1881. The old town is entered by the _Bâb Djedid_ (Pl. A, 3), the _Bâb Diwân_ (Pl. B, 2), at the end of the Rue de la République, and the new _Porte Delcassé_ (Pl. B, 2; 1903). Its main streets are the Rue de la Grande-Mosquée, the shortest way to the Souks (see below), and the RUE DU BEY (Pl. B, 2, 1). In the Rue des Aïssaouas (No. 12), a few paces to the right of the Rue du Bey, is the _Zaouïa Sidi ben-Aïssa_ (p. 373), with its fine portal. The castigations practised by the sect may be seen here on Fridays, from 2.30 to 5 p.m. In the Rue de la Driba, the third street to the right off the Rue du Bey, No. 4, on the left, is the _Driba_ (Pl. 2; B, 2), a fine type of an aristocratic mansion, with a picturesque colonnaded court on the first floor (fee ½ fr.). Opposite, at No. 5 Rue Régulus, one of the _Portals_ has the geometric ornamentation so common in every part of the town. At the end of the RUE DE LA GRANDE-MOSQUÉE rises the venerable _Chief Mosque_ (Pl. B, 2), with its square whitewashed minaret, whose upper half is of the 13th century. The main façade recalls Syrian types (Kalat Simân), and the ten arcades of the interior are like those of the Sidi Okba mosque (p. 374). Just beyond the mosque are the =Souks=, or markets. Their centre is the vaulted _Souk des Etoffes_ (Pl. B, 2), with a large assortment of ‘gadrouns’, the chief garment of the people of Sfax, blankets from Gafsa, etc. Its continuation, the Rue des Teinturiers, leads to the _Bâb Djebli_ (Pl. A, 1), the picturesque N.W. gate. To the right the town-wall is skirted by the Rue des Forgerons (Pl. B, 1), with its balconies. To the left, Rue Abd el-Kader 62, is the law-court of the _Ouzara_ (Pl. A, 1; sits Wednesday and Saturday forenoons), with a pretty court. Outside Bâb Djebli is the bustling cattle-market, enclosed by fondouks or caravanserais, where we have a pretty view of several saints’ tombs and palm-shaded gardens. A pleasant glimpse of the country and its inhabitants is afforded by a drive to the Toual el-Chridi (tariff, see p. 380; but bargain advisable). Beyond the Bâb Djebli we pass the large _Feskias_, or rain-water reservoirs, and then numerous _Nasrias_ or small cisterns. The *Orchard Zone extends about 5 M. inland. Passing through olive-groves and flanked with straight rows of trees the road ascends to the (13½ M.) =Toual el-Chridi= (433 ft.), a hill with a geometric signal, a kind of pyramid in steps, where we have an extensive view stretching to the sea. On the road to Gabes (p. 389), beyond the S.W. suburb of _Picville_ and the Rond-Point, is the _Jardin Public_, watered by large basins, with the Jardin d’Essai, or botanic garden. In the sea, nearly 1 M. outside the harbour, is a _Biological Station_ for the promotion of the sponge-culture (comp. p. 381). From Sfax to _Gafsa_ and _Metlaoui_, see R. 60; to _Djerba_, see R. 62; to _Tunis_ by sea, see R. 64; to _Tripoli_ and _Malta_, see R. 64. 60. From Sfax to Metlaoui viâ Gafsa. 151 M. NARROW GAUGE RAILWAY (Comp. des Phosphates et du Chemin de Fer de Gafsa), in 9¾–10¼ hrs. (27 fr. 20, 20 fr. 65, 14 fr. 60 c.); to Gafsa, 127 M., in 8–9 hrs. (22 fr. 95, 17 fr. 45, 12 fr. 30 c.; return-ticket, valid for 5 days, 32 fr. 15, 24 fr. 40, 17 fr. 20 c.). Railway Restaurant at Graïba only; it is advisable to take provisions. _Sfax_, see p. 380. The train skirts the inland side of the town and then runs to the S.W., near the coast. To the left rises the lighthouse of _Râs Tina_ (p. 405), near the ruins of _Thaenae_, once the chief harbour for the export of olive-oil from the interior. 18 M. _Oued-Chaffar._ 22½ M. _Maharès_ (pop. 1000), a fishing village and market for the _Mehadla Tribe_, is the last fruit-tree oasis to the S.W. of Sfax. Above it rises an old fortified Bordj. On the left, close to the shore, near the Gabes road (R. 62), is seen the castle of _Ounga_, with its eight towers, which is said to have been built by the knights of Malta (p. 398). Leaving the coast the train runs to the W., through an almost uninhabited sandy waste, to (39½ M.) _Graïba_ (Rail. Restaurant), from which a diligence plies to Gabes (p. 389). In the distance appears the bare S. Tunisian hill-country, with _Jebel Bou-Hedma_ (2559 ft.). On the left lie the flats of the large _Sebkha en-Nouaïl_. 61 M. _Mezzouna_, at the N. base of _Jebel Mezzouna_ (1329 ft.), where alfa abounds. 76½ M. _Maknassi_ (hotel), a village of colonists, with olive-groves, and an important alfa station, lies in the _Bled Maknassi_, a monotonous plain on the N. spurs of _Jebel Maknassi_ (1332 ft.). To the N.W. appears _Jebel Majora_ (2871 ft.). 98 M. _Sened_ (1575 ft.), the highest point on the line, with large alfa-stacks, is the station for Sened (1706 ft.), a village 5 M. to the S.E., on the olive-clad slope of _Jebel Biadha_ (3248 ft.). We now descend through cactus plantations, and in spring through corn-fields, to the _Bled el-Hamra_, a lofty plain to the N. of _Jebel Oum el-Alleg_ (3839 ft.), in the territory of the great nomadic tribe of the _Hamama_. 110½ M. _Aïn-Zannouch_, the only station with good drinking-water. On the right are extensive dunes, formed by disintegration. The train rounds _Jebel Orbata_ (p. 385) and then enters the valley of the _Oued Baïech_. 127 M. =Gafsa.=—The STATION (about 1000 ft.) lies on the left bank of the stream, 2¼ M. to the S.E. of the old town (diligence twice daily in ½ hr.). HOTELS. _Hôtel de France_, Place de la Kasba, R. 3–5, B. ¾, déj. or D. 3, pens. 8–10, omn. 1 fr., plain; _Buffet-Hôtel_, at the station. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Place de la Poste. CARRIAGES (limited in number), 20–25 fr. per day; to Tebessa (p. 315) or to Kairwan (p. 372) 120 fr.—DILIGENCE to Tebessa, see p. 318.—HORSE or MULE (3–5 fr. per day), best obtained through the Contrôle Civil, where tickets for the mosques also are obtained. _Gafsa_ (1067 ft.; pop. 4500, incl. about 1000 Jews and 360 Europeans), the ancient _Capsa_, is a peaceful little oasis-town, with two hot springs (88–91½° Fahr.) and several cold, rising in or near the river-bed. The old town lies on the edge of the plateau, on the right bank of the Oued Baïech, which almost everywhere else is dry. It has formed a valley about 3 M. broad, between _Jebel Orbata_ (3839 ft.; p. 385), on the E., and the spurs of _Jebel Bou-Ramli_ (3609 ft.) on the N.W., this being the only considerable pass between the S. Tunisian steppe and the shotts (p. 320). The town is sheltered by _Jebel Ben-Younès_ (3002 ft.) and _Jebel Assalah_ from the cold N.W. and N. winds, and like El-Kantara (p. 276) is a portal of the desert. Its mild climate and beautiful oasis render it a fine winter residence for persons of moderate requirements. Capsa is said to be one of the oldest towns in the interior of Tunisia. Owing to its remote situation in the extreme southern part of his dominions Jugurtha (p. 321) made it one of his headquarters and his treasury; but one morning at dawn, after a nine days’ march from Lares (p. 360), so graphically described by Sallust, it was surprised by Marius and razed to the ground in 106. Under Augustus the town was still in ruins, yet in the 2nd cent. it vied with Thelepte (Feriana, p. 371) as one of the wealthiest towns in S. Tunisia. Through Capsa ran the important caravan-routes between Tebessa and Gabes, those to Feriana, Sbeïtla, and Susa, and viâ Tozeur to the Limes Tripolitanus (p. 412). With the exception of the Piscinæ (see below) all the Roman structures have been demolished for modern building purposes. The town-walls were rebuilt by Solomon (p. 315) in Justinian’s reign, and in the Moorish period were succeeded by a triple mud-built wall, of which scarcely a trace is left. The Byzantine citadel, built of Roman materials, was succeeded by the Moorish Kasba, which the French have now converted into barracks. Since the entry of the French troops in 1881 the mosques have been regarded as desecrated. From the new _Gafsa-Gare_ quarter a street leads to the Oued Baïech, crosses it, where native washerwomen and thirsty camels often present an entertaining scene, and ascends on the border of the oasis (p. 385) to the old town, dominated by groups of palm-trees and two minarets. The large Champ de Foire and the _Fondouk_ (p. 281), on the E. side of the town, are full of life when caravans arrive with their dates from the Djerid (p. 386). The corn-market in the _Halle aux Grains_ also is of some importance. From the Place du Marché (market on Wednesday), at the S. end of the Champ de Foire, the Rue du Gén.-Philebert leads through the town to the Place de la Kasba. Here, on the W. side, rises the _Kasba_, with its towers and white pinnacled walls, once the chief sight at Gafsa, but now the barracks of military convicts. View from the Poste Optique (adm. on application). The _Jewish Quarter_ with its narrow streets, lies to the N.E. of the Place de la Kasba, on the N. side of the town. The dilapidated Roman PISCINÆ (Arabic _Termid_, from ‘thermæ’) are still used as baths. The Jewish Bath is fed by the Kasba spring. The largest basins, supplied by the hot spring outside the Kasba and chiefly used by the Moslems, are in the _Dâr el-Bey_, to the S.E. of the Place de la Kasba. The men’s bath (Termid er-Rayel), where the children love to dive for sou-pieces, is worth seeing. In the beautifully clear water tiny fish (Chromis, occurring also in the underground waters of the Sahara), little black snakes, and small tortoises disport themselves among the bathers. A little to the S. of the Piscinæ are the _Souks_. Foremost among their wares are bright-coloured blankets (frechias), burnouses, and carpets (guétifs), mostly made by the _Hamamas_ (p. 383). The _Sidi Yakûb Mosque_ (Grande Mosquée), to the S.W. of the Dâr el-Bey, one of the oldest in Tunisia, is noteworthy for its interior with nave and eighteen aisles, in the style of the Sidi Okba mosque at Kairwan (p. 374). The minaret, especially towards evening, affords a charming *View of the town and the oasis, and of the finely shaped hills and the yellow desert to the S. The **=Oasis=, nearly 4 sq. M. in area, the richest and greenest palm-oasis in all Barbary, offers many delightful walks. Most of the paths conveniently overlook the little gardens lying below them, watered by numerous runlets from the Piscinæ. In the shade of the palms grow apricots, peaches, figs, pomegranates, quinces, almonds, pears, and olives, and here and there oranges and lemons. The vine, with its vigorous and picturesque tendrils, climbs up the palm trees or the nettle-trees (Celtis australis) planted for its support, yielding ripe grapes as early as June. Below all these trees the soil is carpeted, in the cooler season, with vegetables, melons, wheat, and barley. The W. margin of the oasis, however, where water is scarce, yields olives only. Fine points of view are the hill of _Sidi Bou-Yahia_, crowned with a kubba, on the N.W. margin of the oasis, the _Ksour Nala_, a spur of Jebel Ben-Younès, and, separated from the latter by the depression of the _Foum el-Maza_, _Jebel Assalah_, whence we survey also the steppe stretching to the N. to Jebel Sidi Aïch. From Gafsa to _Maâjen Bel-Abbès_ (Feriana), see p. 372; viâ Feriana to _Tebessa_, see p. 318. A ROAD leads to the S.E. viâ the olive-oasis of _El-Ksar_ to (3¾ M.) _Leïla_, a charming little palm-oasis; then, aside from the _Sebkha d’el-Guettar_, to (12½ M.) =El-Guettar= (952 ft.; two caravanserais; pop. 1800), a palm and olive oasis at the S. base of _Jebel Orbata_ (3839 ft.; fine view from the Poste Optique; ascent by bridle-path 2½–3 hrs.). The route from El-Guettar to (83 M.) _Gabes_ (p. 389), leading almost all the way through an arid wilderness, is fit only for those who are used to fatigue and privations. (Poor quarters at _Bir Saâd_ and _El-Haffey_ only.) Beyond Gafsa the train crosses the Oued Baïech and beyond the oasis it enters the sandy and stony waste between the salt-marsh _Garaet el-Oglal_ (on the right) and the chain of _Jebel Rosfa_ (1411 ft.) and _Jebel Jellabia_ (1346 ft.; to the S.). Beyond the dry bed of the _Oued Melah_ the long range of _Jebel Tarfaoui_ (p. 388) appears far to the left. We skirt the S. base of _Jebel Stah_ (2953 ft.), _Jebel Tarfai_ (2166 ft.), and _Jebel Metlaoui_ (1805 ft.), all rich in phosphates. These hills, overgrown with alfa-grass only, are, like those near Gafsa, a favourite haunt of the gazelle; the maned sheep (p. 277) also occurs. 151 M. =Metlaoui= (643 ft.; Hôt. Rey, R., déj., D., 3 fr. each, quite good), Arabic _Metlâwi_, on the S. slope of _Jebel Seldja_, not far from the _Oued Seldja_ (p. 372), lies in the heart of the S. Tunisian phosphate-region, which extends to Redeyef (p. 372), to Aïn-Moularès (p. 372), and to Jebel Mrata on the Algerian frontier. The phosphate is detached from the hill-sides by blasting (foudroyage) and then spread out to dry on the ground, where it is turned over several times by ploughs. The works employ about 5000 hands, mostly Italians and natives, and yield about 800,000 tons per annum. Adm. to the ‘Grande Recette’ of the works by leave of M. Bursaux, the manager. Interesting walk or drive to the (3 M.) *=Gorges du Seldja=, a wild rocky defile (about 4½ M. long) between Jebel Seldja and _Jebel Alima_ (2559 ft.). For the new railways to _Henchir Souatir_, _Redeyef_, and _Aïn-Moularès_, see p. 372. 61. From Metlaoui to the Djerid. ROAD viâ (35½ M.) _Tozeur_ to (51 M.) _Nefta_ (railway to the former under construction). A carriage may be hired at one of the inns at Metlaoui, but as the road is bad a mule is preferable. It is best to ride direct to Tozeur (carrying provisions, wine, etc.). Nefta may be visited from Tozeur, El-Oudiane best on the way back from Tozeur to Metlaoui (early start required). The *=Djerid= (Arabic _Belad el-Jerid_), the narrow isthmus between the _Chott Djérid_ (65–80 ft. above the sea), the largest salt-marsh in Barbary, and the _Chott Rharsa_ (65 ft. below sea-level), with its four picturesque oases of _Tozeur_, _Nefta_, _El-Oudiane_, and _El-Hamma_ (_du Djérid_), is the largest date-palm region in N. Africa. The number of palm-trees is estimated at about a million, but nearly half belong to the ‘hakhana’, an unfruitful species. The yield of dates is 12½–15,000 tons annually, of which 500 tons only are of the transparent variety. They are exported chiefly viâ Gafsa and Sfax. The mildness of the climate (p. 321) adapts Tozeur in particular for winter residence, but malaria is prevalent in summer. The population (about 30,000), which is said to have included scattered remnants of Christian communities down to the 18th cent., is chiefly of Berber origin, but with the Arab nature fully developed. _Metlaoui_, see above. The road leads to the S.W., through an almost bare waste, at first near the left bank of the Seldja and then down its dry bed. 15½ M. _Bordj Gouïfla_ (269 ft.; no drinking-water), a deserted caravanserai, lies at the junction of the Gafsa road, beyond the influx of the Oued Seldja into the _Oued Melah_ (p. 387). We then skirt the spurs of _Jebel Tarfaoui_ (p. 388). The road to El-Oudiane (p. 388) branches to the left. Not far from the delta of the Oued Melah we near the _Chott Rharsa_, which in the hot season is reduced to a few streamlets and pools, and next reach the E. border of (30 M.) the oasis of =El-Hamma du Djérid= (164 ft.; Bordj, quarters 1 fr.). This oasis, the smallest in the Djerid, with 900 inhab., about 54,000 palms, and a few olive-trees, has of late had mud-walls (tabias) built to shelter it from sand-drift. The _Hammâm_, a piscina in a kind of palm-hut, whose water (109° Fahr.) is in high favour with the natives, is of Roman origin. The road crosses the (32½ M.) downs of _Drah Tozeur_ or _Drâht en-Nadour_ (269 ft.), and reveals a striking *View of the green oasis of Tozeur and the glittering surface of the _Chott Djérid_. 35½ M. =Tozeur= (197 ft.; Hôt. Bellevue, R. 3, B. ½, déj. or D. 3 fr., unpretending, with attentive landlady; pop. 10,000, incl. 65 Europeans), the ancient _Tusuros_, Arabic _Tûzer_, is the seat of the authorities of the Djerid. The houses, mostly one-storied, built of crude (tobs) and burned bricks, have a peculiar geometric ornamentation in brick network, which differentiates them from most of those in the other oases. The _Souks_ are less important than those of Nefta (see below). Interesting *Views are obtained from the minarets of the _Zaouïa Sidi Abid_ and the new _Sidi Mouldi Mosque_ (tickets at the Contrôle Civil). The *OASIS, which is hardly inferior to that of Gafsa in richness and variety of vegetation (p. 385), contains about 420,000 palms. Several hours may be pleasantly spent in riding to the chief points of interest. Leaving the town we ride to the W., viâ _Chabia_ village, with its curious huts of palm-logs, to the _Râs el-Aïoun_, where 194 springs unite to form the _Oued el-Mechta_. We then skirt the S.W. border of the oasis and descend viâ the villages of _Zaouïet-Sahraoui_, _Djehim_ or _Djem_, and _Abbas_ or _Abbès_ to the kubba of _Sidi Ali Bou-Lifa_, near the shott, with a huge and venerable lotus-tree. Thence we should return to Djehim and ride to _Bled el-Adhar_, a village in the W. half of the oasis. The interesting mosque here, the oldest in the Djerid, stands on the site of a Roman temple, which is said to have been converted into a Christian basilica. The *Mihrâb, or prayer-niche, unfortunately whitewashed, dating from 1194, is most elegantly decorated in stucco. We return thence to Tozeur, where the half-dead lotus-tree and the little mosques present a picturesque bit of scenery. A ROAD, with fine points of view, leads from Tozeur to the W., viâ _Chabia_ (see above) and along the S. margin of the dunes of _Koudiat Oum el-Arouah_ (558 ft.), to (51 M.) =Nefta= (200–300 ft.; Djerid Hotel, R. 3–4, B. 1, déj. or D. 3–4, pens. 8–10 fr., quite good; carr. at the Khalifa’s only; pop. 14,000, incl. many Jews but only a few Europeans), the Roman _Aggarsel Nepte_. The houses resemble those of Tozeur in style, but blocks of gypsum from the vicinity also have been used as building-material. We are struck with the great number of small mosques and zaouïas, among which is the zaouïa of the Kadria (p. 361), the most important in S. Tunisia and a religious house of the Rahmania order. The souks, which are much patronized by the Sahara caravans, offer all the products of the Djerid, such as white frechias (p. 385), burnouses (‘djeridi’), silk haiks, etc. Before riding through the *=Oasis= (2–3 hrs.; mule with guide 3–4 fr.), the finest in the Djerid, with its 187,000 palms, we proceed from the souks to the so-called *_Corbeille_ (Arabic _Kasr el-Aïn_, ‘castle of the springs’), a grand gorge in the middle of the town, where the copious springs (152, it is said) unite to form a brook. We then ride to the N.W., past the _Zaouïa of the Kadria_ (p. 387) and along the mud-walls (p. 387), to the _Parcelle Forestière_ (fine view), or to the _Poste Douanier_, another good point of view. We then return, past the mosque of _Sidi Merzoug_ and the palm-garden of _Ghitane ech-Chorfa_, to the _Barrage_, a Roman dam below the Corbeille (at the weir, a little lower, good bathing-place), and visit the elegant kubba of _Sidi Bou-Ali_, in the heart of the oasis. =El-Oudiane=, the eastmost oasis of the Djerid, with 6000 inhab. distributed among six villages, lies 6¼ M. to the N.E. of Tozeur and 3 M. to the E. of El-Hamma (p. 387), on the slope of _Jebel Bou-Hellal_ (624 ft.), the W. offshoot of _Jebel Tarfaoui_ (1821 ft.). This oasis, 4½ M. long, watered by a number of small springs, possesses about 185,000 palms and 25,000 olive-trees, while numerous orange and lemon trees add a special charm. The chief village is _Deggach_ (180 ft.; pop. 3000), built partly of stone. Thence we ride past _Zaouïet el-Arab_, with its minaret (fine view), and _Kriz_, on the slope of _Jebel Nadour_ (519 ft.), to the walled village of _Cedadda_ (230 ft.). At _Guebba_, a village adjoining Kriz, close to the shott, are some Roman ruins. The _Trik el-Oudiania_, a caravan route once used by the Romans but sometimes impassable after heavy winter rains, leads from Kriz across the Chott Djérid, to the S.E., to the _Caïdat du Nefzaoua_, a part of the S. Territories (p. 390) between the shott and the Erg Oriental (p. 285). The first oasis beyond the salt-marshes is (30½ M.) _Debabcha_, on the peninsula of that name. 43 M. _Telmine_, the ancient _Turris Tamaleni_, was the westmost frontier-fortress on the Limes Tripolitanus (p. 412). 47 M. =Kebilli= (quarters in the Bordj), the ancient _Vepillium_ (?), is now the chief town in the Nefzaoua, with 5000 inhab., a market well attended by the Sahara caravans, and the finest palm-oasis in this region. ROADS lead from Kebilli: (1) To the N.E., through the waterless sandy waste between the _Chott el-Fedjedj_ (p. 389) and _Jebel Tebaga_ (1608 ft.) and past (9½ M.) _Limagues_ and (34½ M.) _Oglet Nakhla_, to (53 M.) =El-Hamma= (quarters at the Bordj), the ancient _Aquae Tacapitanae_, with hot springs (118° Fahr.) and a charming palm-oasis; then past the S. base of _Jebel Dissa_ (492 ft.; Poste Optique) to (74 M.) _Gabes_ (p. 389).—(2) To the S.E., through the desert on the S. side of Jebel Tebaga (see above), past _Henchir Bou-Garfa_ and _Tamezred_, to (about 68 M.) _Matmata-Kebira_ (p. 391). 62. From (_Sfax_) Graïba to Djerba viâ Gabes and Médenine. HIGH ROAD from Graïba viâ (52 M.) Gabes to (101 M.) Médenine. Diligence to Gabes, in 9 hrs. (starting at 11.30 p.m., returning at 5.15 p.m.); thence to Médenine, in 8 hrs. ROADS from Médenine to the two starting-points for the island of Djerba: one viâ (37½ M.) Zarzis to (52 M.) Marsa el-Kantara; the other viâ (17½ M.) Djorf Bou-Grara to (30 M.) Marsa el-Adjim.—ROADS from El-Kantara (15½ M.) and El-Adjim (14 M.) to Houmt-Souk. A motor-car should be hired from Sfax (p. 380) to Médenine, or all the way to Marsa el-Kantara. Or we may drive thither from Graïba, by carr. previously ordered from Gabes. At Médenine it is advisable to telegraph to Houmt-Souk for a carr. to meet the traveller at El-Kantara (or El-Adjim, as the case may be).—Houmt-Souk is a steamboat-station between Tunis and Tripoli (comp. R. 64). From Sfax to _Graïba_ (39½ M.; railway in ca. 2 hrs.; fares 7 fr. 5, 5 fr. 35, 3 fr. 80 c.), see p. 383. The ROAD leads to the S. from Graïba to (5½ M.) _Archichina_, a caravanserai on the W. side of the _Sour Kenis Bay_, where we join the main road from Sfax. It then traverses a desolate sandy waste on the W. side of the _Gulf of Gabes_ (p. 405), inland from the little seaport _Skira_ (for the alfa trade). On the (28 M.) _Oued Akarit_ we enter the province of _Arad_. Between _Jebel Roumana_ (564 ft.) and _Jebel Dissa_ (p. 388), offshoots of the hills around the shott region, extends the flat _Isthmus of Gabes_, 12½ M. broad, bridging the space between the bay and the _Chott el-Fedjedj_ (76 ft. above sea-level), the E. continuation of the Chott Djérid (p. 386). In 1873 Ferd. de Lesseps (p. 437) suggested that, by cutting a canal through the isthmus, the whole of the shotts, as far as the Chott Melrir (p. 284), might be converted into a great inland sea; but several of them lie much above the sea-level. 34 M. _Domaine de Oued-Melah_, an olive and palm oasis (10,000 palms), on a brook generally dry, is partly watered by the oldest artesian wells in Tunisia (1885). To the right, a little off the road to Gafsa (p. 383), lie the palm-oases of _Oudref_ and _El-Methouia_, and to the left _Ghennouch_. Near the (49½ M.) poor oasis of _Bou-Chemma_ we join the road from Kebilli (p. 388). Our road leads through the palm-oasis of Gabes (p. 390) and past _Djara_ (p. 390) to (52 M.) _Gabès-Port_. * * * * * =Gabes.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA (comp. R. 64). The steamers anchor in the open roads (at low-tide over ½ M. from the fishing-boat harbour). Landing or embarking, especially in summer, in N.E. or E. wind, is often impossible. HOTELS (comp. p. 324; sometimes crowded with motorists in spring). _Grand-Hôtel_, _Hôt. des Voyageurs_, both at Gabès-Port, ½ M. from the pier. CAB from the pier to Gabès-Port 40 c. (for several pers. 20 c. each); one hour 1½ fr., each addit. ¼ hr. 25 c.; day of 10 hrs. 10–12 fr.; carr. and four horses, for long excursions, 20 fr. a day. BRITISH CONSULAR AGENT, _C. Calleja_. _Gabes_ or _Gabès_ (Europ. pop. 900, mostly Italians and Maltese; total, incl. oasis, 10,200), the ancient _Tacape_, the chief harbour on the stretch of coast called _Emporia_ by the Greeks and a rival of Leptis Magna and Tripoli (comp. p. 407), is now the capital of the _Arad_ and headquarters for the S. Territories, which are still under military rule. It is the only harbour of importance on the S. coast of the _Gulf of Gabes_ (p. 405). The chief exports are the sponges of the bay, alfa or esparto grass, dates, and woollen goods. In the war annals of 1881 the bombardment of Gabes from Menzel (see below) and the protracted resistance of the inland tribes are memorable. It was here that Gen. Logerot intercepted the tribes of the E. coast who tried to pass through the Arad to Tripolitania. The small _Harbour_, for fishing-boats only, at the mouth of the _Oued Gabes_, protected by two stone piers, is exposed to every wind and choked with sand. To the N.W. of the estuary, on the border of the oasis, which is here protected from sand-drift by palisades, rise low dunes; to the S.E., near the lighthouse, is an admirable bathing-beach. The modern GABÈS-PORT, adjoining the _Camp Militaire_, contains no attraction except the garden of the _Cercle Militaire_. It is garrisoned with 160 native horsemen (Spahis or Cavaliers du Maghzen), who guard the Tripolitanian frontier of the S. Territories. The tradespeople are mostly Jews. Beyond Gabès-Port, also on the barren right bank of the river, lie the large Berber villages, partly built of Roman materials, of DJARA (_Grand-Djara_; pop. 3500) and MENZEL (pop. 4500, incl. about 1000 Jews). The market-place of Djara, a square enclosed by primitive arcades with shops, is frequented chiefly by the S. Algerian caravans. Almost the only sight of Gabes is the beautiful, but in summer malarious *=Oasis=, once somewhat over-praised by Pliny, which extends 3¾ M. up the left bank of the river and is 1–1¼ M. in breadth. Among the remarkably tall and well-grown date-palms (about 200,000) are many bananas and other fruit-trees. The river and the small channels, often enlivened by women washing or carrying water, are crossed by numerous bridges of palm-logs. A walk or ride to the most interesting spots takes 3–4 hrs. (mule 2–3 fr.). From Menzel we go upstream to the _Barrage du Sidi el-Bey_ (1894), and past the remains of a Roman _Dam_, built of huge blocks, to the _Râs el-Oued_ (213 ft.), a hill at the W. end of the oasis often covered with clouds of dust, where the principal feeders of the river, 30 in all, form a number of waterfalls. Turning here, we follow the largest irrigation-conduit to the village of _Chenini_ (pop. 1000) and cross the Sfax road (p. 382) to the N.W. half of the oasis, where many of the palms are overgrown with vines. The *=Monts des Ksour= (p. 320), bordering the Sahara on the S. side of the Arad, are well worth visiting from Gabes or from Médenine (p. 391; carr. tariff, see p. 389; an ample supply of food and rugs advisable; comp. also p. 278). These barren hills culminate in _Kef Toudjane_ (p. 391), which is almost everywhere conspicuous from the coast, and _Jebel Smerten_ (each about 2100 ft.), and in _Kef Demeur_ or _Jebel Demmer_ (2460 ft.). The inhabitants, the _Troglodytes_ of antiquity (see p. 320), are, in the N.W. part, the _Matmatas_, on the plateau of that name, and, in the S., members of the _Ouerghamma League_, Berber tribes which for centuries withstood the attacks of the Arabs and the predatory Sahara nomads. They still often live in caverns, with a court resembling a shaft as the centre of their dwelling, and cavities used as side-rooms or offices. The gardens, laboriously irrigated by dams and cisterns, yield olives, dates, and figs; in the valleys grain, chiefly barley, and vegetables are cultivated. The Matmatas often go to Tunis as porters or artisans but always return home in their old age. A glimpse of this region is obtained by driving from Gabes to (28 M.) _Matmata-Kebira_ or _Kalaâ-Matmata_ (1838 ft.; p. 388; quarters at the Kaïd’s), on the Matmata plateau, whence an excursion (on mule-back) should, if possible, be taken to the picturesque rock-village of _Hadege_. A new but very hilly road leads from Matmata-Kebira through the mountains viâ (12½ M.) _Toudjane_ (919 ft.), a village grandly situated on the slopes of _Kef Toudjane_ (2090 ft.), direct to (37½ M.) _Métameur_ (see below). * * * * * The MÉDENINE ROAD (diligence, see p. 388) now leads to the S.E. through a steppe-like hill-country, fringing the Monts des Ksour (p. 390) and intersected by many valleys, passing the small oases of _Menara_ (200 ft.) and (55 M.) _Teboulbou_ (artesian wells; much olive-culture). Next come the valleys of the _Oued Merzig_ and _Oued Ferd_, with the small oasis of (56 M.) _Ketena_. 74 M. _Mareth_ (Bordj), a large palm-oasis on the _Oued Mareth_. We then cross the _Oued Zigraou_ to (77 M.) _Aram_. Beyond the spurs of _Jebel Touati_ and _Jebel Souinia_ rises the main range of the Monts des Ksour (p. 390). Beyond the valleys of the _Oued Zeus_ and _Oued Hallouf_ the road rounds _Jebel Tadjera_ (968 ft.; Poste Optique). 97½ M. _Métameur_, formerly a ‘camp militaire’, on the brook of that name, below the small oasis and (½ hr.) Berber village of _Ksar Métameur_ (391 ft.), whose storehouses (rhorfas), with keel-arched vaulting, recall very ancient buildings in Asia Minor. 101 M. =Médenine= (361 ft.; Médenine Hôtel, R. 2½, B. ½, déj. 2½ fr., good; pop. 1000, incl. 100 Europeans), capital of the _Ouerghamma_ (see above), the league of the Berber tribes _Khezour_, _Touazine_, _Ouderna_, and _Accara_. The high-lying _Camp Militaire_, with its garrison of Spahis (p. 390) and Infanterie Légère d’Afrique (‘Joyeux’), is the largest on the Tripolitanian frontier. The deserted and ruinous *_Ksar_, in a small palm-oasis, consists of a great number of the old storehouses of the League, some of them in four or five stories, now replaced by retbas or rabtas (p. 338). They are dug deeply in the hill-side, and are accessible only by stairs of mud or stepping-stones. Travellers used to privations and content with such poor quarters as the natives can offer may, after consulting the military authorities at Médenine, visit the S. part of the _Monts des Ksour_ (p. 390). The best centre there is (34 M.) =Tatahouine=, the seat of the military and civil authorities, with an important market, well attended by caravans on their way from the Sahara and the Sudan by way of Ghadâmes in Tripolitania (p. 285). The chief villages of the cave-dwellers (Ksûr) near this are _Tlalet_, formerly _Talalati_, a frontier-fortress on the Limes Tripolitanus (p. 412), _Beni-Barca_, *_Chenini_, and *_Douirat_ (2090 ft.). The ZARZIS ROAD (37½ M.) descends to the E. from Médenine through the sandy coast-plain to (15½ M.) _Aïn-Mader_, near the saline marshes of that name on the S. bank of the Mer de Bou-Grara (see below), and then traverses the hill-region of the _Accara_ tribe (p. 391), between the sea and the large _Sebkha el-Melah_. To the left, a little off the road, 4 M. from Zarzis, are the ruins of the little Roman town of _Zita_, now _Zian_, where the small forum is still enclosed with the remains of its colonnade. 37½ M. (or from Graïba 138½ M.) =Zarzis= (accommodation at the Bordj), on the site of the Roman seaport _Gergis_, amidst extensive olive-groves famed for their oil, has two artesian wells and a small harbour for fishing-boats. Important sponge-fishery. A road (the chief route to the island of Djerba) leads to the N.W. from Zarzis across the _Péninsule de Zarzis_ or _des Accara_ to (14½ M., or, from Graïba, 153 M.) _Marsa el-Kantara_, a village near the _Râs Marmor_, on the S. side of the E. entrance (1¼ M. wide) to the Mer de Bou-Grara (see below). The dilapidated Roman dam which crosses the strait here to El-Kantara is still used by camel-caravans at low tide (6½ ft. below high-water), but it is better to cross by fishing-boat. From El-Kantara to _Houmt-Souk_, see p. 394. The DJORF BOU-GRARA ROUTE to Djerba is shorter (30 M.) and will repay antiquarians. The rough road (mule preferable to carr.) leads from Médenine to the N.E. viâ _Bir Saâdou_, and then past some small salt-marshes, to the _Mer de Bou-Grara_, a large landlocked bay between the mainland and the island of Djerba, accessible for large vessels by the _Canal d’Adjim_ only (not quite 1 M. across; see p. 393). This bay, in which fish abound, and Lake Bizerta (p. 352) are the best natural harbours in Tunisia. 17½ M. (or from Graïba 118½ M.) =Djorf Bou-Grara= (no inn) is near the site of *_Gightis_, a small Punic-Roman seaport, which attained great prosperity in the 2nd cent. A.D. The harbour, which was always shallow at low tide, is now entirely silted up. Excavations begun in 1896 have revealed the ruins of curiously cramped and irregular streets, with various public buildings, villas remarkable for their coloured incrustation and rich mosaics, and Byzantine houses built of Roman materials. A broad street ascends from the harbour to the _Macellum_, with fountain and exedra similar to those at Timgad (p. 295). The small _Forum_, 60 by 44 yds., has on the E. side an archway, the _Curia_, and the _Market Basilica_, with the tribunal, while the _Severus Arch_ on the N. side formed a lateral entrance. On the S. side rises the _Capitol_ (see p. 288), in the style of the capitol or ‘Jupiter temple’ at Pompeii. _The Temple of Mercury_, to the S. of the forum, has columns in its peribolos, or outer wall, with curious capitals adorned with cables, in allusion to the occupation of the founder. The building is curiously planned, having several small rooms or ‘sacristies’ behind the cella; it is adjoined by a chapel of Mercury and one of Minerva. A _Temple of Isis_ (_?_), a _Temple of Hygiea_, the _Thermae_, and a late-Punic _Cemetery_ also have been unearthed. If a fishing-boat is available at Djorf Bou-Grara we may sail direct to _Adjim_ (p. 394; 13½ M. in ca. 1½ hr.). If not, we must go 12½ M. farther to (30 M., or from Graïba, 131 M.) _Marsa el-Adjim_ at the _Râs el-Djorf_, the N. point of the peninsula, opposite Adjim (1⅓ M. distant; boat in ¼ hr.). * * * * * The =Island of Djerba= (highest point 118 ft.), 17½ by 14 M., is the largest on the N. African coast. From the lotus-tree (Zizyphus Lotus; Arabic nebga, Fr. jujubier), which thrives here, Homer called it the island of the _Lotophagi_. It was later named _Meninx_ and was the birthplace of the Roman emperors Vibius Gallus and Volusianus (251–3). It is now one of the most fertile and prosperous regions in Tunisia. Secure in their insularity against the attacks of the nomadic Arabs, the inhabitants (about 40,000), mostly Berbers of the Kharijite sect (p. 323), have retained their old language and customs. They vie in industry with their kinsmen the Mozabites (p. 216) and go forth as traders to all the seaports of the Orient. Agriculture also thrives. There are 1,300,000 date-palms, 500,000 olive-trees, and as many orange, lemon, and peach trees; early vegetables too are now largely grown. The sponge, polypus, and other fisheries and the oyster-beds in the Canal d’Adjim (p. 392) are very productive. Djerba has four harbours, _Houmt-Souk_, _Adjim_, _El-Kantara_, and _Aghir_. The only towns are Houmt-Souk, _Hara-Kebîra_, and _Hara-Serîra_; the villages are merely local markets for their districts. The countless little mosques have white domes like most of the houses, but are distinguished by conspicuous slender minarets of the Turkish type, resembling lighthouses. The farm-houses (menzel) scattered throughout the island often have a castellated appearance. In the entire absence of brooks the soil is irrigated from cisterns and wells, among which are two very copious artesian wells. The winter climate (p. 321) is the mildest in Tunisia, but gales are frequent. For excursions there are few carriages available (20 fr. per day); the usual conveyance is an araba or country-cart; for a mule the charge is 4–5, for a donkey 3 fr. per day. The tourist should beware of the countless scorpions, especially in the warmer season. =Houmt-Souk= (Hôt. de l’Oasis or Crolet; Hôt. de France; Brit. cons. agent; pop. 5900, incl. 560 Maltese, French, Italians, and Greeks), the capital of the island, lies on the sandy N. coast, ½ M. from the sea and 5 M. from the anchorage of the steamers (comp. p. 405). The dilapidated _Bordj el-Kebîr_ on the shore recalls the time of the Spanish domination. Near it is the _Christian Cemetery_, where repose the bones, collected in 1848, of the 18,000 Spaniards who were massacred here in 1560 after the naval victory of Dragut (p. 370) and Ochiali Pasha, and yielded trophies for the ghastly Bordj er-Rious (tower of skulls). In the interesting _Souks_ (Mon. and Thurs.) are seen all the products of the island. Among the numerous religious buildings may be named the _Mosquée el-Gheriba_ and the _Mosquée des Turcs_. A road leads to the S. from Houmt-Souk to the Jewish villages of (¾ M.) _Hara-Kebîra_ (pop. 3500) and (4½ M.) =Hara-Serîra= or _Hara-Sghîra_ (pop. 1500), where numerous goldsmiths make silver-gilt trinkets of antique and Byzantine patterns, with enamel and jewels (mostly imitation). The _Gheriba_, the synagogue of Hara-Serîra, where, according to an old tradition, one of the tables of the law of Moses was once found, is a great resort of Jewish pilgrims from S. Tunisia and Tripolitania, and is much revered by Moslems and Catholics also.—From Hara-Serîra the road leads to the S. to (14½ M.) =Guallala=, the centre of the pottery-manufacture carried on in Djerba ever since ancient times (oil-jars, porous water-jugs, vases, etc.). Near it is the hill of _Dahrat-Guallala_, which yields the clay. A road leads to the S.E. from Houmt-Souk viâ _Hara-Kebîra_ (see above) and (10⅓ M.) _Cedouikeche_ (potteries) to (15½ M.) =El-Kantara=, the seaport for Zarzis (p. 392), not far from the extensive but unimportant ruins of _Meninx_, the ancient capital of the island.—Another road leads to the S.W. to (14 M.) =Adjim=, a rising little seaport and market (Wed.), with an artesian well 760 ft. deep. To _Djorf Bou-Grara_ (and _Gightis_), see p. 392. Near the E. coast of the island, on the roads to the _Râs Taguermess_ (p. 406) and the small summer harbour of _Aghir_, lie the villages of =Midoune= (Frid. market) and _Mahboubine_, with many villas of the merchants of Houmt-Souk, situated amid palm and olive groves and charming *Fruit Gardens, where the oranges and lemons blossom in March. On the road to Midoune is the _Mausolée de Borgho_, the only intact Roman monument in the island. VIII. SEA ROUTES IN THE EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN. Route Page 63. From Tunis to Malta (Syracuse) 396 64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta 404 65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna 412 Leptis Magna, 412.—The Cyrenaica, 413. 66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete 415 67. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said 417 68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi 418 Miramar. Divača, 427. 69. Alexandria 431 70. Port Said 436 71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo 437 Cairo 439 History, 443.—History of Art, 444.—a. Northern Quarters (The Ezbekîyeh Garden, the Muski, Gâmia el-Azhar, Muristân Kalâûn, Gâmia el-Muaiyad), 445.—b. The S.E. Quarters (The Arab Museum, Gâmia Ibn Tulûn, Gâmia Sultân Hasan, Citadel, Gâmia en-Nâsir, Gâmia Mohammed Ali), 450.—c. The New Town (The Ismaîlîyeh and Tewfîkîyeh Quarters, Egyptian Museum, Gezîreh), 454.—d. Environs (The Mameluke Tombs, Heliopolis Oasis, Heliopolis-On, Old Cairo, Pyramids of Gîzeh, Memphis, and Sakkâra), 458. 72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut (Smyrna, Constantinople) viâ Jaffa 466 From Haifa to Nâbulus; to Damascus viâ Derât (Nazareth, Tabarîya), 468. 73. From Jaffa to Jerusalem 470 From Jerusalem to Bethlehem, 480. 74. Beirut. Excursion to Damascus 481 75. From Beirut to Smyrna (and Constantinople) 489 76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (and Constantinople) 491 77. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Athens (and Constantinople) 493 78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (and Constantinople) viâ Brindisi and Patras 496 Corfu, 496. 79. Athens 502 History, 505.—a. Walk from the Palace round the S. side of the Acropolis (The Olympieion, Stadion, Monument of Lysikrates, Theatre of Dionysos, Odeion, Areopagus), 508.—b. The Acropolis (The Temple of Nike, Propylæa, Parthenon. Erechtheion, Acropolis Museum), 512.—c. Walk from the Palace to the Theseion. Dipylon. Hill of the Nymphs. Pnyx. Monument of Philopappos, 520.—d. The Modern Quarters (Academy of Science, University, Library, Polytechnic Institute), 525.—e. The National Archæological Museum, 526.—f. Walks (Lykabettos, Kolonos, New Phaleron), 528. 80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople 529 81. Constantinople 536 History, 541.—a. Galata and Pera (Galata Tower, Petits Champs, Dolma Bagcheh Palace, Top Haneh), 542.—b. Stambul (Yeni Valideh Jami, Seraglio, New Museum, Chinili Kiosque, Aya Sophia, Mosque of Ahmed I., Great Bazaar, Mosques of Bayazid, Suleiman the Great, and Mohammed II., Land-Wall), 545.—c. The Golden Horn (Eyub, Sweet Waters), 555.—d. Scutari, 556.—e. The Bosporus, 557. =63. From Tunis to Malta= (_Syracuse_). 258 M. STEAMERS (agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Malta, see p. 400). =1.= _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (Marseilles, Tunis, and Malta line, R. 21) on Wed. (returning Thurs.) afternoon, in 18 hrs. (55 or 40 fr.).—=2.= _Hungarian Adria_ (R. 22) once a month (cabin, without food, 25 fr.).—Other steamers calling at Malta (P. & O., German Levant cargo-boats, etc.) are mostly bound for distant ports. Embarking and landing, comp. p. 399.—English money is the currency at Malta, but French and Italian gold are in general use. The steamers follow the Palermo and Naples course (comp. R. 26) as far as _Cape Bon_, and then steer to the E.S.E. into the _Straits of Pantelleria_ or _Sicilian Straits_ (p. xxx). The island of _Pantelleria_ (p. 154), which is sighted in clear weather off Cape Bon, is passed by the French steamers at night. The lighthouse of _Spadillo_ (68 ft.), on the N. E. point of the island, long remains in sight. The distant _Linosa_ (610 ft.; ancient _Æthusa_), with a lighthouse, is visible only in very clear weather. In the early morning the abrupt coasts of _Gozo_ (p. 403) and _Malta_ (p. 399) appear in the distance. The vessel rounds the island of Gozo, whose lighthouse on the _Giurdan Hill_ (499 ft.) on the N. side, is visible for 27 M. Beyond _Râs el-Kala_, the E. point of Gozo, we sight the narrow _Straits of Flieghi_ or _Comino Channels_, lying between Gozo and Malta, and named alter the island of _Comino_ (p. 397). On the N. E. coast of _Malta_, above which soon appears the huge dome of Musta (p. 403), we pass the _Baia di Melleha_ or _Mellieha Bay_, with the pilgrims’ resort of that name in the background, the _St. Paul’s Bay_ (p. 403), and _Salina Bay_, with its salt-works. Next appear the village of _St. Julian_ (_San Giuliano_), on the bay of that name, and the town of _Sliema_ (p. 400). We then pass _Fort Tigné_ (p. 401; lighthouse) and the entrance to the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (p. 399). The entrance of the _Grand Harbour_, the chief harbour of _Valletta_, between _Fort St. Elmo_ (p. 400; lighthouse) and _Fort Ricasoli_ (p. 401; lighthouse), is protected against N.E. gales by the new _St. Elmo_ and _Ricasoli Breakwaters_.—Arrival, comp. p. 399. * * * * * The =Maltese Islands= (_Isŏle Maltesi_), composed of tertiary rock formation, were considered by earlier geographers to belong to Africa, but are now assigned to Europe. They lie halfway between the Straits of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal, on the chief route from the Atlantic to the Levant and to India. The principal island is _Malta_, with the capital _Valletta_ and many small towns and villages (_casal_). It is 20 M. long, 9¾ M. broad, and, at its culminating point, 847 ft. in height. The island is much over-peopled. So is the island of _Gozo_ (600 ft.), which measures 10¼ by 5¼ M.; but _Comino_ (248 ft.), 1¼ by 1 M., is uninhabited. The mean temperature of the year is 66½° Fahr., of January 53½° (almost the same as that of Djerba and Tripoli), of August 79½°. Gales, particularly the dreaded N.E. wind (_Gregale_), often make a winter residence in Malta uncomfortable, while the _Sirocco_ (p. 321), here very moist, is specially trying in autumn. At first sight the islands seem destitute of vegetation, the fields and gardens being enclosed by lofty walls, while the growth of trees is prevented by the violent winds. By means of laborious tilling and artificial irrigation about a third of the area of the islands has been converted into luxuriantly fertile arable land. After the corn and hay harvest in May and June the land is sown a second time, mostly with cotton, afterwards manufactured in the interior. Among other valuable products are early vegetables and potatoes, which yield two crops in the year. The oranges are excellent but other fruits are scarce. Cattle, poultry, and eggs are largely imported from Turkey, Tunisia, Tripolitania, and Barca (p. 412). The population of Malta (96½ sq. M.), is ca. 184,000, apart from the garrison (nearly 9000 soldiers); that of Gozo (27 sq. M.) is 21,200. The British and foreign residents number about 10,000. The natives, especially in the seaports, Phœnician in origin, are partly descended from the various races that have here held sway. The _lingua Maltese_ is akin to Arabic, but has borrowed much from the Sicilian dialect of Italian, and of late from English also. The educated classes speak Italian which is used also in the law-courts. The language of commerce is English. The _faldetta_, the peculiar black head-dress of the women, is the sole relic of the old national costumes. The Maltese are much attached to the church of Rome, and nowhere in so small a community are the churches so numerous and gorgeous. About one-third of the soil is said to belong to the clergy. The Maltese are well-known throughout the Mediterranean as enterprising mariners, merchants, and fishermen. Their island being the most densely peopled region in the Mediterranean next to Monaco, an immense number of the inhabitants have emigrated during the last century. From 1807 onwards they settled largely in the Tunisian seaports, from Tabarca to Zarzis, where they formed the bulk of the Christian population, but of late they have had to contend against the growing competition of the Sicilians and other Italians. In Algeria they have formidable rivals in the Italians and Spaniards. Within the last few decades the stream of emigration has flowed chiefly to Tripolitania, Barca, Egypt, and even to Zanzibar and Delagoa Bay. Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of _Ogygia_ described by Homer, where Odysseus is fabled to have been enslaved by the nymph Calypso, whose alleged cavern is still pointed out on the N. coast of Malta, and also in the island of Gozo. Between 3000 and 2000 B.C. a prehistoric race (Hamitic?), probably from Libya, settled in Malta. Of their stage of civilization, which lasted a thousand years, traces are still found in the massive stone structures in the cyclopean style, which reveal, especially in their circular ground-plan, an affinity with the _sesi_ of Pantelleria, the _nuraghi_ of Sardinia (see p. 145), and the megalithic monuments of Barbary, S.E. Spain, and the Balearic Islands, and fall within the sphere of influence of pre-Mycenæan (‘insular’) and Mycenæan culture. Later the Phœnicians of Sidon founded a colony here, which soon became important enough to send forth settlers to Acholla (p. 370) on the Tunisian coast. Next, in 736 B. C., came Greek immigrants, and two centuries later the Carthaginians, who took possession of the island. They now called it _Melita_ and had a capital of that name (now Notabile), but they in their turn were ousted by the Romans in 218 B. C. It was on the N. coast of Melita that St. Paul was wrecked in 62 A. D. (Acts, xxvii. xxviii). He was received and courteously lodged by Publius, the governor, and founded a Christian community in the island before resuming his voyage. Four centuries later came the Vandals (p. 322), and after another century the Byzantines, who in 870 were driven out by Moors from Tunis. Under the Moors the island was infested with pirates. At length when the Normans under Roger conquered Sicily in 1090, Malta also fell under their sway, and thenceforward it shared the fortunes of Sicily until 1522. In that year arrived the Knights of St. John, banished from Rhodes by the Turks, and to that Order in 1530 Malta, Gozo, and Tripoli were granted by Emp. Charles V. The knights then took the name of Knights of Malta and gallantly defended their island, which became one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was that of Borgo (Vittoriosa, p. 400) in 1565, when they were attacked by the whole forces of Suleiman the Great under Dragut (p. 370), Mustapha, and Piali. In consequence of that event the Grand Master Jean de la Valette founded and fortified the new town of La Valette (Valletta), which became the capital and was deemed impregnable. In 1798 Bonaparte, when on his way to Egypt, gained possession of the town by treachery and stratagem; but on 8th Sept. 1800, after a siege of two years by the Maltese, assisted by British and Neapolitan troops, the French garrison was compelled to capitulate and leave the island. Since the treaty of Paris (1814) Malta has belonged to Britain.—The present governor of the island is _Lt.-Gen. Sir H. M. Rundle, K. C. B._ [Illustration: MALTA VALLETTA] The island of =Malta= presents an undulating and richly varied N.E. coast, but on the rocky S.W. side it rises abruptly from the sea. The _Grand Harbour_ and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_, the two grand natural harbours of Valletta, originally valleys hollowed out during the tertiary period, form one of the most important of British war-harbours and the headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet. Owing to its central position Malta is also a great coaling-station, vying with Gibraltar, Algiers, and Genoa. In 1908–9 the harbour was entered and cleared by 3212 vessels of 4,036,752 tons of burden. =Valletta.=—ARRIVAL. The great British liners lie to in Sliema Creek (p. 400); the French, Italian, and German steamers anchor in the Grand Harbour, near the Custom House, or, during N.E. gales, in the sheltered Marsa Creek. Boat to or from steamer 6_d._, with baggage 9_d._ (at night 1_s._). Passports may sometimes be useful at custom-house, post-office, etc. =Hotels= (all more or less in the English style). =1.= _At Valletta_: HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE, Strada Stretta 34, with a fine fresco-painted dining-room (17th cent.), pens. 9_s._, good; ST. JAMES’S HOTEL, Strada San Paolo 226, pens. 9_s._, well conducted; HÔT. ROYAL, Strada Mercanti 30, pens. 10_s._; WESTMINSTER, Strada Reale 11; IMPERIAL, Via Santa Lucia 134; QUEEN’S, Strada Mercanti; HÔT. D’AUSTRALIE, Strada Stretta 53, pens. 8½ fr.; HÔT. CENTRAL, Strada Stretta 44, pens. 8½ fr., good cuisine, commercial house. Also the family hotels, OXFORD (No. 29), GREAT BRITAIN (No. 67), and OSBORNE (No. 50), all in Strada Mezzodì, quiet and pleasant.—=2.= _At Sliema_ (p. 400), for some stay: *NEW IMPERIAL, Strada Ridolfo; SAVOY, Strada Imrabat 6, with garden, pens. (with bath) 6–8_s._, good; these two in an open site. =Restaurant.= _National Restaurant_, Strada Reale 253.—CAFÉS. _Risazza_, near the Exchange Buildings; _Regina_, Piazza Tesoreria; _Anglo-Maltese_ (Engl. beer), _Commerce_, both in Strada Reale; Express. =Post Office=, Strada Mercanti 4.—=Telegraph Office=, Strada Reale 38. =Banks.= _Anglo-Egyptian_, Strada Reale 233; _Banco di Roma_; _Anglo-Maltese_ and _Banco di Malta_, Exchange Buildings, Strada Reale.—MONEY CHANGERS. _Coppini_, Strada Mercanti 58; _Thos. Cook & Son_, Strada Reale 308.—BOOKSELLER. _J. Critien_, Strada Reale, and others.—NEWSPAPERS. _Daily Malta Chronicle_, _Malta Herald_, _Gazzetta di Malta_, etc. =Shops.= LACE at the _Malta Lace School_, Strada Mezzodì 28; _Borg_, Strada Reale 269; _Mifsud_, Strada Santa Lucia.—FILIGREE WORK at _Amabile’s_. =Theatres.= _Royal Opera_, Strada Reale, at the corner of Strada Mezzodì (Nov.–April, Ital. opera); _Teatro Manoel_, Strada Teatro, built by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena (p. 401) in 1731, for operas and varieties.—VARIETIES at the Alhambra. =Cabs.= Within Valletta and Floriana, incl. the Marina 4_d._ (luggage according to bargain); to Sliema 1_s._ 2_d._, to Burmola, Senglea, or Vittoriosa 1_s._ 8_d._, to Musta 2_s._, to Notabile or Krendi 2_s._ 6_d._, to Boschetto 3_s._, to Mnaidra or St. Paul’s Bay 4_s._—By time: ¼ hr. 6_d._, ½ hr. 1_s._, 1 hr. 1_s._ 6_d._, each addit. ¼ hr. 4_d._ =Lift= from the harbour to the Upper Barracca (p. 402), 1_d._ =Tramways= from Porta Reale (1) viâ Marsa and Casal Paula (2_d._) to Burmola, (2) viâ Curmi to Zebbug, (3) viâ Hamrun to Birchircara. =Steam Ferry= across the Grand Harbour to Senglea (½_d._); across Marsamuscetto Harbour to Sliema (½_d._); to Pietà and Misida (1_d._); in summer to St. Julian’s also (2_d._).—STEAMER TO GOZO every week-day at 7, on Sun. at 8 a.m.; on Sun., Tues., Thurs., Sat. at 1 p.m. also; returning at 10.30 or 4.30; return-fare 1_s._; dep. from Grand Harbour; to or from steamer 4_d._ =Malta Railway= (station between Royal Opera and Porta Reale), 24 trains daily (more on Sun.) to Attard 3_d._ or 1½_d._, to Notabile (Città Vecchia) 7_d._ or 3½_d._ =Steamboat Offices.= _Peninsular & Oriental_, Worcester, Strada Mercanti 41; _Cunard_, Lowe, Strada Stretta 81; _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (p. 396), Vadala, Strada Reale 292; _Società Nazionale_ (R. 64), Civitelli, Strada San Paolo 225; _German Levant_, P. Cutajar & Co.; _Hungarian Adria Co._ (RR. 22, 23), Kohen, Piazza Regina 6. =United States Consul=, _J. O. Laing_; vice-consul, _James A. Turnbull_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Gollcher & Sons_, Strada Zaccaria 21. =Sights.= _Cathedral_ before 8 and from 10 to 10.30 a.m.; also after 2 p.m.—_Library_ on week-days, 9 to 3.30.—_Governor’s Palace_ daily, 9–12 and 1–5, 6_d._ (guide unnecessary).—_Valletta Museum_ on week-days 9–1 (in June-Sept. 3–6 also), 6_d._, Sat. 3_d._ ; Sun. 9–12 free. ONE DAY. Visit to _Cathedral_, _Palace_, and _Museum_ (p. 401), and view from _Barracca Superiore_ (p. 402) in the forenoon; in the afternoon, trip to _Notabile_ (p. 403; cathedral, bastions, museum), or to _Gozo_ (p. 403). _Valletta_ or _Valetta_ (197 ft.; pop. 25,000, or incl. Floriana 32,000), the capital of Malta, is the seat of the Governor (see p. 399), of the Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Forces (Gen. Sir Ian Hamilton), and of a University founded in 1769. It lies in 35°34′ N. lat. and 14°31′ E. long., at the extremity of the peninsula, formerly called _Monte Sceberras_, 1½ M. long and ½ M. broad, between the _Grand Harbour_ (to the S.E.) and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (to the N.W.). Enthroned above its harbours, with its grand fortifications partly hewn in the rock, the model of a 16th. cent, fortress, it presents a very striking appearance when approached from the sea. Opposite Valletta, on the three central creeks of the Grand Harbour, lie the ‘Three Cities’ of _Borgo_ (Malt. _Birgu_; pop. 6200), the oldest seat of the Maltese Order, also called _Vittoriosa_ since the great Turkish siege, _Sénglea_ (pop. 8100), and _Búrmola_ or _Cospicua_ (pop. 14,100), with the naval arsenal. In the Marsamuscetto Harbour lies the island of _Jezira_, with the Lazzaretto, beyond which, on the _Sliema Creek_, rises the town of _Sliema_ (pop. 12,000). The =Fortifications= were an object of ceaseless attention under the rule of the Order. The oldest part of them is _Fort St. Angelo_, originally built by the Moors in 870 and renewed in 1530, which in the siege of 1565 proved the chief bulwark of Borgo. _Fort St. Elmo_, originally built in 1488 but now entirely altered, fell into the hands of the Turks in 1565. The town-wall of _Borgo_ was built in 1530 and that of _Sénglea_ in 1554. The *Town Walls of _Valletta_, with their thirty bastions, deep moats, drawbridges, and casemates, date chiefly from the time of the foundation of the town (1566–71). The outworks of _Floriana_ are of 1635. The older ramparts of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Burmola, called the _Firenzuola Lines_, were strengthened by the addition of new outworks in 1668 called the _Cottonera Lines_. The later harbour-forts are _Fort Ricasoli_, of 1670, _Fort Manoel_ in Jezira, of 1732, and _Fort Tigné_, of 1792. All these works are supplemented by the British _Harbour Batteries_. The streets ascend steeply from the two harbours, many of them by means of long flights of steps. The main business streets are the STRADA REALE, leading on the top of the peninsula from Fort St. Elmo to Porta Reale (over ½ M.), and the Strada Mercanti. From the latter the Strada Cristoforo descends past the _University_, established in an old Jesuit college (Strada San Paolo 109), to the _Lower Barracca Gardens_, a bastion affording a good survey of the mouth of the harbour and the ‘Three Cities’. The plain PALACE, once the seat of the Grand Master and now that of the governor of Malta (see p. 399), was erected in 1573–7 by _Girolamo Cassar_ in the Strada Reale and Piazza Tesoreria, in the centre of the town. The garden court on the left is adorned with a bronze statue of Neptune by _Giovanni da Bologna_; in the court on the right rises a huge Araucaria excelsa. Adm., see p. 400; entrance by the green gate in the upper court. The chief attraction is the PALACE ARMOURY on the first floor, containing armour, weapons, flags, and trophies of the Order (catalogue 5_s._). The principal hall, 88 yds. long, contains also state-coaches in the pseudo-classical style and charters of Pope Paschalis II. (1113) and Charles V. (1530; investiture of the Order). On the walls of the adjacent corridor are painted views of old Malta. The Council Room on the left is hung with superb Gobelins, designed by _Franç. Desportes_ (1703). The wall-paintings represent naval battles fought by the Order. An inscription on the Doric portico of the _Main Guard_, opposite the N.W. façade of the Palace, records the cession of Malta to Great Britain. A band often plays in the square in the evening. In the Piazza Tesoreria, opposite the S.W. façade of the Palace, is the _Public Library_ of 56,000 vols. (adm., see p. 400; entrance under the arcades). The CATHEDRAL OF SAN GIOVANNI (_St. John’s_), to the left in the second side-street in the direction of the Porta Reale, built in 1573–7 by _Girol. Cassar_, and lavishly decorated in the interior, was the Order’s temple of fame. Adm., see p. 400. INTERIOR. The oil-paintings on the barrel-vaulting are by _Mattia Preti_ (‘il Cavaliere Calabrese’; 1613–99). On the floor are about 400 slabs of coloured marble, tombstones of the knights. The chapels dedicated to the nine nations of the Order are lined with a number of tombstones of Grand Masters, mostly in the baroque or rococo style. In the Portuguese chapel (2nd on the right) are those of Ant. Manoel de Vilhena (1722–36) and Manoel Pinto de Fonseca (1741–73), the founder of the university.—In the Crypt, below the high-altar (of 1686), repose, among others, L’Isle Adam (1530–4), the first Maltese Grand Master, and Jean de la Valette (1557–68), the gallant defender of Borgo (see p. 398). Sumptuous Brussels tapestry (1697–1701), after designs by _Rubens_ and _Mattia Preti_, is hung up in the church on festivals. The *VALLETTA MUSEUM, Strada San Giovanni 38, opposite the façade of the Cathedral, affords an admirable survey of the history of Maltese art and culture from the prehistoric age down to the close of the Knights’ period. Adm., see p. 400; no catalogue; curator, Dr. Themistocles Zammit. ENTRANCE ROOM. On the left the ‘sacred stone’ from the Torre dei Giganti (p. 404); Roman inscriptions from Gozo (about 140 A. D.); a fine Norman capital, Norman and Cufic (early Arabic) inscriptions, etc.; also models of stone balconies and of a Norman window at Victoria (p. 404). FIRST FLOOR. Prehistoric objects from Egypt (the Faiyûm); the Lord Grenfell collection of Egyptian antiquities; Greek vases from Benghazi and Cyrene; Arabian glass, etc. SECOND FLOOR. In the _Ante Room_ are Roman sculptures.—The _Chief Hall_ contains prehistoric, Phœnician, Punic, and Roman objects from tombs in Malta and Gozo. By the entrance-wall is a large collection of vases arranged in types. In the last case are potsherds from various neolithic stations. By the back-wall are prehistoric finds from Hal-Saflieni (see below) and Hagiar Kim (p. 403), vases, amulets, projectiles, flint implements, seven seated stone figures, etc.; adjacent, on the left, is the unique Phœnician-Greek dedicatory inscription in which Phœnician characters were for the first time deciphered (on the right, cast of a similar inscription in the Louvre). By the window-wall are copies and models of the so-called chief temple of Hagiar Kim and of Phœnician tombs; also an Arabian tombstone (1173), with a long Cufic inscription. In the first case in the centre is Phœnician glass; in the fourth, a Phœnician terracotta sarcophagus, with the recumbent figure of the deceased. The _Second Room_ contains memorials of the period of the Order.—In the _Passage_ are drawings of the Roman house at Notabile (p. 403) and its mosaics.—The _Third Room_ contains old plans, maps, and views of Malta of old; model of a state-galley of the Grand Masters; a collection of coins from the Phœnician age to the present day. Each of the nine nations of the Order had its own ‘auberge’ or house of assembly. Most of these were built by Girol. Cassar. The _Auberge d’Aragon_ is in the Piazza Celsi. At the upper end of the town are the _Aub. de Provence_, at the corner of the Strada Reale and Strada Britannica, the _Aub. d’Italie_ (1574), in the Strada Mercanti, opposite the post-office, and the handsome _Aub. de Castille_ (1574; altered in 1744), in the Piazza Regina.—A few paces from the Piazza Regina are the _Upper Barracca Gardens_ (laid out on the large bastion of Barracca Superiore; lift, see p. 400), embellished with numerous statues, and affording a fine view of the Grand Harbour, especially by evening light. Through the _Porta Reale_ (P. R. on the map) we reach the plateau between Valletta and the suburb of FLORIANA. Near the gate is the tramway-station (p. 400). On the right, farther on, is the _Parade Ground_. In the middle of the plateau, beyond the bronze statue of _Ant. Manoel de Vilhena_ (p. 401), runs the long narrow _Maglio Garden_, enclosed by high walls. Farther on we come to the bastions of Floriana, on which are situated the _Argotti_ or _Botanic Garden_, belonging to the university, and the _Sarrìa_, a handsome church of the Maltese Order (1678). At _Casal Paula_ or _Paula_, 2 M. to the S. of Floriana, beyond the _Creek of Marsa_, lies the prehistoric _Hypogaeum of Hal Saflieni_, containing circular caves, some of them richly decorated, of the period of the neolithic civilization. Entrance (6_d._) in Catacomb Street, 5 min. from the tramway-terminus (p. 400). RAILWAY (p. 400) from Valletta to Notabile (carr., see p. 399). After the long tunnel under Floriana come the stations of _Hamrun_, _Misida_, _Birchircara_, and (4½ M.) _Attard_ (Alb. Melita). About 10 min. to the N. of Attard is the _Palace of Sant’Antonio_ (1625), once the summer seat of the Grand Master (visitors admitted to the fine garden). The road in front of the palace goes on to (2 M.) _Musta_, with a remarkable church, whose huge dome, 118 ft. in diameter, was constructed in 1853–64 without the aid of scaffolding. 7 M. =Notábile= or =Città Vecchia= (Hôt. du Point-de-Vue, with fine view, pens. 7–8_s._; pop. 7500), still popularly called _Medina_ (Arabic for ‘town’), the seat of the bishop, was the old fortified capital of the island as far back as the Roman age. From the Notabile station a road leads to the Piazza Sakkaya, on the hill between the old town and the S. suburb of _Rábato_. Thence we pass through the Porta dei Greci to _St. Paul’s Cathedral_ (San Paolo), before whose portal are planted cannons as in the time of the Order. The sumptuous interior contains many marble tombstones of Maltese bishops. Fine choir-stalls of 1480. The Strada dei Bastioni behind the church commands an extensive view. In Museum Road, not far from the Piazza Sakkaya, is a Roman house, excavated in 1881, now converted into a _Museum_, containing mosaic pavements, statues, bronzes, and glass (fee 3_d._).—The adjacent _Esplanade_ affords a fine view of Musta, the town-walls of Notabile, and the pleasant green valley at the foot of the _Imtarfa Hill_, with the barracks and the Museum Station (terminus of the railway, which goes through a tunnel under Notabile). The parish church of _San Paolo_, in the Piazza Parrocchiale of the suburb of Rabato, stands over a cavern, in which, according to the legend, St. Paul dwelt during his three months’ stay in the island in the year 62. From the church the Strada San Cataldo and Strada Sant’ Agata soon lead to the _Catacombs of St. Paul_ and the _Cemetery of St. Agatha_, both pre-Christian in origin but used in Christian times (fee 3_d._). To the N.W. of Notabile rise the _Bingemma Hills_ (784 ft.), with Phœnician rock-tombs and a fort on the coast.—About 2 M. to the S.W. of Notabile, near _Casal Dingli_, is the _Naval Signal Station_ (847 ft.), the highest point in the island, whence we overlook the whole group of islands and the surrounding sea.—Some 2 M. to the S. of Notabile lies the _Boschetto_, a large public garden (carr., see p. 399), adjoining the _Verdala Palace_ (1586), once a summer seat of the Grand Masters (now that of the governors).—To the S.E. is (4½ M.) _Casal Krendi_ (carr., see p. 399), near the luxuriantly wooded gorge of _Makluba_, 132 ft. deep, probably formed by an earthquake. We may visit (20 min. to the W.) the prehistoric ruins of _Hagiar Kim_, buildings of huge blocks of stone without mortar. About 7 min. farther to the W. are the similar ruins of _Mnaidra_. _St. Paul’s Bay_ (Baia di San Paolo; carr., see p. 399) on the N. side of the island, 5½ M. to the N. of Notabile, with the islet of _Selmun_ (colossal statue of the apostle), is the supposed scene of St. Paul’s shipwreck. The sister island of =Gozo= (p. 397), to the N.W. of Malta, the ancient _Gaulos_, Maltese _Ghaudex_, which also was once fortified by the Maltese Order, is more fertile and varied than the main island. The coast is precipitous all round. The small local boat (p. 400) crosses in 1½ hr., affording a fine view of the N.E. coast of Malta, and, on the way back, of the caves on the W. shore of Comino. We land in _Migiarro_ or _Miggiar Bay_ (Malt. _Mjiar_), on the S. coast of Gozo, below _Fort Chambré_ (1750), where carriages are in waiting (to Victoria and back 3_s._, whole day 5_s._). _Victoria_ (299 ft.; Duke of Edinburgh Hotel, and others; pop. 5000), called _Rábat_ down to 1887, the capital and episcopal residence of Gozo, lies in the centre of the island, 4 M. to the N.W. of the landing-place. The streets show a good many relics of mediæval architecture (comp. p. 402). The neglected _Citadel_ dates from 1600. The women of Gozo are much occupied with lace-making. A branch of the road from the harbour to Victoria leads to the village of _Sciarra_ (486 ft.; Maltese _Casal Xaghra_). Below Sciarra, on a height covered with fruit-trees, rises the _Torre dei Giganti_ (Malt. _Ggantija_), similar to the ruins of Hagiar Kim (p. 403; adm. by leave of the proprietor, Marquis Cassar Desain). 64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta. BETWEEN TUNIS AND TRIPOLI, 544 M.: =1.= _Società Nationale_, Line XIX (Linea Circolare della Tunisia e Tripolitania, see p. 142) from Tunis Wed. aft., from Susa Thurs. foren., from Sfax Frid. night, arr. at Tripoli Sun. morn. (in the reverse direction leave Tripoli Thurs. aft., arr. at Tunis Mon. morn.). Fare 103 or 75 fr.—=2.= _Comp. de Navig. Mixte_ (p. 128) leave Tunis Frid. even., Susa Sat. noon, Sfax Sun. midnight, Gabes Mon. noon, Djerba Mon. even., arr. at Tripoli Tues. morn. (in reverse direction leave Tripoli Tues. aft., arr. in Tunis Sat. evening). Fare 100 or 75 fr.—From Tunis to Susa viâ Sfax and back, also steamers of the Comp. Gén. Transatlantique (p. 128; leave Tunis Sun. aft., Sfax Mon. aft., Susa Tues, aft., regaining Tunis Wed. morn.).—Between Algiers and Tripoli direct, or viâ Malta, there are also the cargo-steamers of the German Levant Line.—At Gabes, Djerba, and Tripoli gales sometimes make landing impossible; passengers are then landed at the next port and sent back free, paying for their extra food only.—Agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Susa, see p. 366; at Sfax, see p. 380; at Tripoli, see p. 406. BETWEEN TRIPOLI AND SYRACUSE, 325 M.: _Società Nazionale_, Line XX (Linea Circolare, see above), also Line VIII (Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi, Constantinople; R. 66). The vessels of the principal line leave Tripoli Sun. aft., Malta Mon. night, arr. at Syracuse Tues. morn. (returning from Syracuse Mon. night, from Malta Wed. foren., arr. at Tripoli Thurs. morn.); steamers of the other line usually leave Tripoli every second Wed. aft., Malta Thurs. night, arr. at Syracuse Frid. morn. (returning from Syracuse every second Frid. night, from Malta Sun. foren., arr. at Tripoli Mon. morn.). Fare 74 fr. 50 c. or 51 fr.—From Malta to Tripoli there is a fortnightly steamer of the Banco di Roma and occasionally a cargo-boat of the German Levant Line.—Between Malta and Syracuse the Hungarian Adria (p. 132) plies daily except Mon. (from Malta after midnight, from Syracuse in the afternoon; in 8 hrs.; fare without food 25 or 15, return 37½ or 22½ fr.).—Agents at Malta and Syracuse, see p. 400, 162. From Tunis to _Cape Bon_, see p. 153. Our steamer, generally at night, next skirts the steep E. coast of Cape Bon, passes _Râs el-Mirh_, and off _Râs el-Mustapha_ steers to the S.S.W. for Susa. On the latter headland lies the little town of _Kelibia_, the ancient _Aspis_ or _Clupea_, whose castle-hill is crowned with a lighthouse. The flat coast of the _Gulf of Hammamet_ (p. 364) recedes from view; beyond it, in the background, are the distant _Jebel Zaghouan_ (p. 359), _Jebel Zeriba_ (2412 ft.), and _Jebel Fadloun_ (1306 ft.). Nearing =Susa= (p. 366), we have a pleasant view of the olive-clad hills of the _Sahel_, while the town itself presents a most striking picture with its great expanse of white houses. Leaving the coast, where the low dunes conceal the salt-marshes of the _Sebkha de Sahline_, we steer to the E.S.E. towards the _Pointe de Monastir_, the S. limit of the bay of Hammamet. The little town of =Monastir= (82 ft.; Hôt. de Paris, Hôt. de France, both primitive; Brit. vice-cons., A. B. Geary; pop. 9000, incl. 600 Europeans) lies superbly on the olive-clad headland. It owes its name to a monastery, which in early Moorish times still existed as the sole relic of the Roman seaport of _Ruspina_. From the steamer we first sight the white pinnacled town-wall and the numerous shrines outside of it. Then, as we pass between the headland and the three islets off the coast (_Djezira Sidi el-Rhedamsi_ or _Ile Egdemsi_, etc.), appears the dilapidated Moorish _Kasba_ with the tower of _En-Nadour_. To the E. in very clear weather we descry the lighthouse on the distant _Kuriat Islands_. After a short stay in the _Bay of Monastir_, on the S. side of the town, we steer to the S.E., past the _Dahar Cliffs_ (on the left), and across the bay; then, beyond the _Râs Dimas_, along the coast to =Mehdia= (p. 369), where the steamer seldom stops long enough to admit of our visiting the town. Next (generally at night) we pass _Râs Kapoudia_ (p. 370), the N. limit of the _Gulf of Gabes_ (the ancient _Syrtis Minor_), where the discrepancy between flow and ebb (6½ ft.) is greater than in any other part of the Mediterranean. Avoiding the silted _Kerkenna Passage_, the vessel steers round the _Kerkenna Islands_ (_Ile Chergui_ and _Ile Gharbi_, the ancient _Cercina_ and _Cercinitis_). The steamer usually arrives at =Sfax= (by way of the harbour-canal, p. 381) early in the morning. Beyond Sfax the vessel skirts the uninteresting coast as far as _Râs Tina_ (p. 383), and then steers to the S.S.W. across the bay to =Gabes= (p. 389), where it generally allows time for a short visit to the oasis. Leaving Gabes we may in clear weather descry the _Monts des Ksour_ (p. 390) bounding the horizon. We then steer to the E. to the sandy N. coast of =Djerba= (p. 393), and anchor in the open sea off _Houmt-Souk_ (p. 393). The process of going ashore and returning takes so long that it is hardly ever possible to visit the place. After losing sight of the lighthouse of _Râs Taguermess_ (or _Turgoeness_), the E. cape of Djerba, we steer for a long time to the E.S.E., at some distance from the sandy coast with its salt-marshes, where the _Râs Adjir_ marks the frontier of Tripolitania. The monotonous sandy coast, with its numerous oases, with the little port of _Sansur_, and the watch-tower of _Gergârish_ (p. 411), is scarcely visible till we are nearing _Tripoli_. The _Lighthouse_, rising above the abraded terrace on the N.W. side of the town, and the ruinous _Spanish Fort_ (1510) at the end of the headland are the chief landmarks. Numerous reefs make it difficult, and in a N.W. gale sometimes impossible, for vessels to enter the harbour. * * * * * =Tripoli.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the inner roads, more than ½ M. from the pier, and are at once boarded by the hotel-agents (charges should be asked). Landing or embarking 50 c., but with baggage 1–1½ fr. according to distance and bargain. Dogana at the pier (Pl. B, 1; comp. p. 537). For a prolonged stay a passport visé by a Turkish consul is necessary, but otherwise a ‘permis de voyage’ (1 fr.) from the Contrôle Civil at Tunis, or even a visiting-card, may suffice. The services of the importunate Jewish guides should be declined. =Hotel.= HÔT. MINERVA (Pl. a, B 2; Maltese landlord; bargain advisable), déj. 2½, pens. 6–8 fr., tolerable.—CAFÉ-RESTAURANT: _Circolo Militare_ (p. 409; Maltese host), near the Bâb el-Khandek. Many small Arab cafés on the quay (Marina), near the clock-tower (Orologio), etc.; small cup of coffee (gâhua) 5 c., very sweet ‘hlu’, slightly sweetened ‘gídgid’; cup of tea (shâi) 10 c.; no gratuities. =Moorish Baths= (comp. p. 175), tolerable; the best is the _Hammôm_ (_bagno árabo_) in Strada del Bagno (Pl. B, 2); Europeans pay 3 fr. or more according to their rank. =Post Offices.= _Italian_, at the Ital. consulate (Pl. 7; B, 2), Strada del Consolato Italiano; _French_, at the French consulate (Pl. 4; B, 1), Strada del Consolato Francese; _Turkish_, on the quay (Marina). Poste Restante letters should bear the name of the office where they are to be found.—=Telegraph Office.= _Eastern Telegraph Co._ (Pl. 10; B, 2), on the quay; payment must be made in gold or in Turkish money. =Consulates.= BRITISH (Pl. 5; B, 1): consul-general, _J. C. W. Alvarez_; vice-consul, _A. Dickson_.—UNITED STATES (Pl. 9; B, 4): consul, _J. L. Wood_; vice-consul, _A. E. Saunders_. =Steamboat Offices= (comp. p. 404, and RR. 65, 66): _Società Nazionale_, Labi, Strada del Bagno; _Comp. de Navigation Mixte_, Fratelli Farrugia, Strada del Consolato Italiano; _German Levant Line_, Sûk el-Harrâra (Pl. B, 2; near Sûk et-Turk). =Banks.= _Banco di Roma_ (Pl. 2; B, 2), in the Piazza (p. 409); _Ottoman Bank_ (Pl. 1; B, 2), on the quay; _Labi_, see above. Government offices accept Turkish money only, but Tunisian silver and copper, and in the town even Italian copper, besides 10 and 20 fr. gold pieces, are in general circulation. =Carriages= (stand on the S.E. side of the Serâi, p. 409) 1½–2½ fr. per hour according to the quality of the vehicle; drive round the oasis 3–5 fr.; as few of the drivers speak Italian it is best to get a resident to make the bargain and specify the route.—DONKEYS (at the Sûk el-Khobsa, p. 410), ½ day 1–2, day 2–3 fr.—ROWING AND SAILING BOATS at the pier; about 2 fr. per hour. The LANGUAGE of the natives is an Arabic dialect, interlarded with Berber and Italian words; many of the officials, however, speak Turkish only. In the European colony Italian predominates. This is largely due to the fact that the Italian state supports several schools, which are attended by Jewish and Maltese children as well as Italian. There are three French schools also. [Illustration: TRIPOLI] ONE DAY should be devoted to a walk of 2–3 hrs. through the town and to an excursion to the oasis (p. 410). One must be very careful not to enter mosques, saints’ tombs, or Moslem cemeteries (comp. p. xxv). It should be observed also that the military authorities, dreading spies, are jealous of visitors near the fortifications (comp. p. 175). Otherwise the public safety is well provided for in the town and environs. For excursions in the interior the leave of the Sublime Porte must be obtained. _Tripoli in Barbary_ (Ital. _Tripoli di Barbería_, Fr. _Tripoli de Barbarie_ or _d’Afrique_, Arabic _Tarabulus el-Gharb_, _i.e._ ‘Tripoli of the West’, to distinguish it from the Syrian Tripoli), the ancient _Oëa_, is the capital of the Turkish vilayet of _Tripolitania_, presided over by the Vali or governor-general. The town lies in 32° 54′ N. lat. and 13° 10′ E. long., on a triangular peninsula, which consists of quaternary dune-sandstone resting on tertiary limestone rock. A series of rocky islets and reefs, 1¼ M. long, running out from the peninsula, form a roomy but much silted harbour. The mixture of nationalities converging at Tripoli, as one of the chief portals to inland Africa, is unparallelled except in Egypt. Of the 46,000 inhab. two-thirds are Berbers (p. 94), Arabs, Moors (p. 171), and Turks; there are 10,000 Jews, 2000 Maltese, 800 Italians, 150 Greeks (besides many Greek sponge-fishers in summer), 200 other Europeans, and lastly some 2000 negroes, descendants of slaves from the Sudan. Negroes are to be found also among the very numerous officers of the garrison of 6000 men. The town with its white houses, its slender minarets of the Turkish type, its green gardens and groups of palms, the reddish-yellow dunes of drift-sand from the Sahara, and the deep-blue sea, all bathed in dazzling sunshine, present a most fascinating picture. HISTORY. The three Phœnician seaports between the Syrtis Minor and Major, _Leptis Magna_ (p. 412), _Oëa_, and _Sabratha_, together called _Tripolis_ by the Sicilian Greeks, were even in the Punic age connected by caravan routes with inland Africa and by a coast-road, 512 M. long, with Carthage. After their annexation to the Roman province of _Africa_ on the fall of Jugurtha (p. 321) the ‘three cities’ flourished anew. To them, as also to Tacape (Gabes), the Garamantes, or Libyan (Berber) inhabitants of Phazania (now Fezzan), brought from the Sudan ostrich-feathers, gold-dust, ivory, ebony, elephants, and black slaves, to be exported thence to Carthage, Rome, and the chief seaports of S. Europe. This region yielded also large supplies of corn, while the productive olive-trees were deemed the most abundant on the Mediterranean. To the Roman emperors _Septimius Severus_ (193–211) and _Alexander Severus_ (222–35), natives of this district, the three towns owed much improvement and embellishment. The Punic language and the Greek, which was that of the educated classes, were then still so prevalent that Alexander Severus, for example, was unacquainted with Latin till his arrival in Rome. Sept. Severus made Oëa the capital of his _Provincia Tripolitana_, and when the artificial harbours of the two sister towns fell into decay Oëa succeeded to their trade and their joint name. After the Vandal period (p. 322) and after the domination of the Byzantines, who succeeded only in 567 in Christianizing the Garamantes, the repeated irruptions of the Arabs (p. 322) brought ruin and misery to the whole country. From 670 onwards, apart from the short periods of occupation by the Normans (1140–59), the Spaniards (1510–30), and the Maltese Knights (1530–51), Tripolitania remained for centuries under Arab or Berber sway, sharing the fortunes of Tunisia (comp. p. 322), while from 1216 onwards the Genoese had a monopoly of the coast-trade of Tripolitania and Barca. In 1551 the corsair Dragut (p. 370), driven out of Mehdia, founded a new Turkish tributary state at Tripoli. From that time down to 1816 the inhabitants took an active part in the depredations of the ‘Algerian pirates’, bringing down upon them the sanguinary reprisals of an English fleet in 1663 and of French fleets in 1685 and 1728, which caused the almost entire destruction of the town. In 1804 Tripoli and in 1805 Derna (p. 414) were stormed by the Americans. The native dynasty of the _Karamanli_, founded in 1714, was overthrown by the Turks in 1835, after which Tripoli became a usual place of exile for Turkish civil and military offenders and again lapsed into decay. At length, in 1899, the partition of the inland regions between Great Britain and France stimulated the Turks to renewed activity and defensive measures. In spite, however, of these, and of the very favourable situation of the town, the caravan trade with the interior is on the decline and the local industries are inconsiderable. The OLD TOWN, a pentagon, is still enclosed on four sides by the mouldering Spanish _Town Wall_, 40 ft. high at places, built of sandstone from Gergârish (p. 411), and consists of three different quarters. Near the harbour, and behind the _Marina_ (Pl. B, 1, 2) skirting it from the Dogana or Custom House (Pl. B, 1) onwards, lies the quarter of that name, inhabited chiefly by the Christians, and therefore the least Oriental in appearance. To the W. is the _Hárra_ (_Kebîr_, the great, and _Serîr_, the little), the Jewish quarter, with its crooked and dirty streets. The purely Mohammedan _S.E. Quarter_ contains the main business streets, which lead to the outer markets and the new town (p. 409). The principal streets are paved and are lighted at night with petroleum lamps, but many others, especially in the Jewish quarter, being unpaved in Oriental fashion, are almost impassable after rain and pitch-dark at night. In the narrow Strada della Marina (Arabic Bâb Bahr, sea-gate), leading from the Dogana and the fish-market to the S.W. to the Jews’ quarter, rises on the right the _Roman Triumphal Arch_ (Pl. B, 1), built by the consul C. Orfitus in the reign of Antoninus Pius (138–161) but in 163 rededicated to that emperor’s successors, Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus. The arch, 41 ft. broad and 33 ft. deep, has four fronts (‘quadrifrons’; comp. pp. 315, 316), showing that it stood over cross-streets. Among the sadly mutilated sculptures are still seen statues of Victory, figures of animals, and trophies. The back, with the inscription, is half covered, and the fourth side is almost entirely built over. The lower half is buried in the ground. The interior is used as a shop. The vaulting of the passages is lacunar. The central space is covered with a flat dome, rising from an octagonal cornice. We next come to the _Gurji Mosque_ (Pl. B, 1), with an octagonal minaret, and to the main street of the _Hárra Kebîr_ (see above), with its numerous workshops, where curious gold and silver trinkets are sold by weight. From the _British Consulate_ (Pl. 5; B, 1) we follow the Church Street to the S.E. to the Italian Gothic church of _Santa Maria degli Angeli_ (Pl. B, 2), completed in 1846, belonging to an Italian Franciscan monastery. By leave of the superior we may ascend the tower, whose gallery (141 ft.) is a fine point of view. From the Piazza (Pl. B, 2; Arabic Mussâiya) near the church the Strada del Consolato Italiano leads to the S. to the Sûk el-Harrâra (Pl. B, A, 2, 3), the chief thoroughfare between the Marina (p. 408) and the W. gate, _Bâb el-Jedîd_ (Pl. A, 3; ‘new gate’), opened in 1860. This sûk contains the shops of the cloth and silk weavers and several curious antiquated _Bakeries_, with millstones turned by camels. A road from the W. gate leads to the W., past several wells (p. 410), to the (8 min.) extensive _Jewish Cemetery_; another, to the N., to the ancient _Necropolis_ (Pl. A, 2), on the abrupt coast (82 ft.), not far from the town-wall, containing many rock-tombs and cisterns.—The _Greek_ and the _Catholic Cemeteries_ (Pl. A, B, 1) lie between the Lazaretto and the lighthouse. The busiest streets in the S.E. quarter are the Zanga Sûk et-Turk (Pl. B, 2, 3) and, diverging from it at the Piazza dell’Orologio, the Sûk el-Khadra or Sûk Urba (Pl. B, C, 3). The tasteless three-storied _Torre dell’ Orologio_, Arabic _Sâa_ (Pl. B, 3), which tells Turkish time, was built in 1870. In front of the Arab cafés here auctions are held on Friday forenoons. The SÛKS (p. 335) consist here in part only of vaulted passages; many have wooden roofs with vine-trellises. The wares are mostly Tunisian or European, and therefore seldom worth buying here. A side-entrance adjoins the _Jâma el-Bâsha_ (Pl. C, 3), the chief mosque. The massive pile of buildings by the sea, a few paces to the E. of the clock-tower, is the _Serai_ (Pl. C, 2, 3; Arabic Kasba), originally the Spanish citadel. It now contains barracks, many courts, several prisons (habbês), partly underground, and the government offices. The terrace next the sea affords a fine view of the harbour and towards the oasis. Outside the S. gates, Bâb el-Khandek and Bâb el-Menshia or el-Mnshîa (Pl. C, 3; oasis gate), rises the _Fontana Maggiore_, an elegant well-house in the Turkish rococo style. Near it is the _Circolo Militare_ (Pl. C, 3; p. 406), a fashionable resort, especially when the military band plays (Sun. and Frid., 5 or 8 p.m.). The pretty little garden, whence we survey the Moslem cemetery (p. 411), contains four fine antique statues in marble, all of them torsos from Leptis Magna (p. 412). Outside the S. gates lies the featureless NEW TOWN (_Città Nuova_), in which among other buildings are situated the _Town Hall_ (Beledîa; Pl. C, 3), the _Azizia_ (Pl. C, D, 3, 4), erected under Abdul Aziz as a residence for the commandant, the new _Vali’s Residence_ (Pl. C, 4), and the _Technical School_ (Pl. D, 4). The _Sûk el-Khobsa_ or bread-market (Pl. C, 3), with its fondouks (inns), is worth seeing in the early morning. The sandy beach, nearly ¾ M. long, is the scene, early on Tuesday mornings, of a great *WEEKLY MARKET (_Sûk et-Tlett_; Pl. D, E, 3, 4), attended also by camel caravans from the interior. Among the many products of the country offered for sale here are fruit and cereals from the oases (see below), olive-oil (Arabic zeit), henna (see below), alfa or esparto, reed-mats, pottery, leather goods (such as the girbas, water-skins in goat-leather for journeys in the desert, made at Ghadâmes). It is a market also for pack-camels (Arabic jemél), donkeys (hmâr), sheep, and goats. Beyond the market are a barracks quarter (_Kishla_) and the suburb of _Dahra_, inhabited by Turks, Arabs, and Maltese, with a strange-looking mosque and a Catholic nunnery-orphanage. A little to the S., on the road to Másri (p. 411), is a _Negro Village_ with conical reed-huts.—To the E. of the market, close to the sea, lies the _Giardino Pubblico_ (Pl. E, 3, 4; bands on Frid. and Sun.). The =Menshia= or _Mnshîa_ (pop. about 14,000, mostly Berbers), the coast-oasis of Tripoli, once far more extensive, stretches 7½ M., with a breadth of 1–2½ M., as far as the dunes bordering the _Jefâra Steppe_. In spring it is one sea of blossom. To the S. of the steppe rise the limestone hills fringing the _Sahara_ (Shára, desert), commonly called the _Jebél_ (mountain; 1300–1650 ft. high). The deep ravines, filled with considerable streams during the winter rains (14 in. per annum at Tripoli, but considerably more in the Jebél), continue to send down a supply of water underground even during the dry season. This water is obtained from countless draw-wells (sânia), bordered with white walls, and generally shaded by tamarisks (Arabic âtel). Day and night oxen or donkeys toil at the drawing of the water, which is then collected in reservoirs and conducted thence to the fields. In spite of this imperfect mode of irrigation and the primitive wooden agricultural implements used by the natives the excellent soil is wonderfully productive. Beneath the fruit-trees of every variety, olive-trees, mulberry-trees, and alcanna-shrubs (henna, Lawsonia inermis; p. 108), which thrive under the tall overshadowing date-palms, the soil still gives sustenance to barley (Arabic shaîr), wheat (gammah), maize, lupins, tobacco (dokhàn), madder, rose-geraniums, red pepper (filfil ahmar), onions, tomatoes, spinach, beans, melons, etc. The excellent early potatoes are sent to Europe under the name of ‘Malta potatoes’. The fields and gardens are enclosed by mud-walls 3–7 ft. high, overgrown with Indian figs (prickly pears; Opuntia Ficus indica; Arabic ‘hind’), which prevents them from collapsing in wet weather. It is harvest all the year round. From April to June almonds, apricots, and corn are gathered in, then in July and August peaches (khûkh), from July to September figs and luscious grapes, from October to December dates and olives, from November to April excellent oranges, and at almost any season lemons. In autumn the nomadic Arabs of the steppe pitch their dark goats’-hair tents (beit shâar, house of hair) in the vacant fields in order to gather the fresh yellow dates. The dates of the coast are, however, inferior in flavour to those of the Sahara oases and unsuitable for exportation. The following EXCURSION takes about 2 hrs. (best to drive or ride; see p. 406). From the Sûk el-Khobsa (p. 410) the road leads to the S.W., cutting through a Moslem cemetery destroyed by an inundation in 1904, to (1¼ M.) _Bumeliâna_, where a pumping-station supplies several public fountains in the town. It then runs to the E. to (1 M.) _Másri_, with its large artillery and cavalry barracks, where the dunes command a fine view of the steppe, visible in clear weather as far as the distant Jebél. Turning to the S.E., and passing the mud-built fort, _Gasr el-Hâni_, we come to (2½ M.) the road leading to the N. to the (¾ M.) official house of the Sheikh of the Menshia (_Hôsh esh-Skiûkh_; fine view towards the sea from the balcony). About 1¼ M. to the N.E. are the _Sûk el-Jêma_ (Friday market) and the extremely dirty village of _Amrûs_, inhabited by about 600 Jews, mostly smiths. Thence back to Tripoli 3 M. On the _Sherrashhet_, the road leading from Dahra (p. 410) near the coast, are several country-houses and (about 2 M.) the largest _Mohammedan Cemetery_, containing two dilapidated domed tombs (of the Karamanli dynasty, p. 408), visible from Tripoli. Near it, close to the sea, is the _Protestant Cemetery_, where we have a charming view of Tripoli. About 7½ M. farther, on the caravan-route to Lebida (p. 412), are the village of _Mélaha_ and the oasis of _Tajûra_, with its colonnaded mosque. The W. end of the Menshia is 1½ M. from the town. We may thence cross the undulating steppe, past several mud-built forts, to the small oasis of (4½ M.) _Gergârish_, with its old sandstone quarries and ruined watch-tower (Gasr Jehalî, tower of the ignorant), originally Roman. * * * * * From Tripoli the steamer proceeds to the N.N.E. to =Malta= (p. 399). Off the abrupt S. coast of the island, with its numerous caves, lies the uninhabited rocky islet of _Filfola_, which forms a target for the artillery practice of the British Mediterranean fleet (p. 399). Farther on we obtain a striking view of the barren E. coast, with the bay of _Marsa Scirocco_, bounded by _Benhisa Point_ and _Delimara Point_. On a height rises the old _Fort St. Lucian_. Beyond _St. Thomas’s Bay_, with the old castle of _St. Thomas_ and the bay of _Marsa Scala_, the steamer rounds the _Ponta tal Zonkor_, the N.E. point of the island, and soon reaches the entrance to the _Grand Harbour_ of _Valletta_ (comp. p. 399). The VOYAGE TO SYRACUSE is performed at night. We steer to the N.N.E. towards _Cape Passero_ (the ancient _Promontorium Pachynum_), the fissured headland at the S.E. point of _Sicily_, with its lighthouse and two small harbours (_Porto d’Ulisse_ and _Porto Palo_). Next, on the E. coast of Sicily, stands forth the _Penisola della Maddalena_ (177 ft.), once a coast-island but now joined to the main island by the deposits of the _Ciani_ and _Anapo_. It ends in the _Capo Murro di Porco_, with a lighthouse on the top. Entrance to the harbour of _Syracuse_, see p. 162. 65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna. STEAMBOATS (agents at Tripoli, see p. 406; at Alexandria, see p. 432). =1.= _German Levant Line_ (cargo-boats), three times monthly (80 marks).—=2.= Steamers of the _Banco di Roma_ (p. 406) fortnightly viâ Malta, Benghazi, Derna, and Solum.—Between Tripoli, Lebida (occasionally), Mesurata, Benghazi, and Derna there plies a fortnightly steamer of the Società Nazionale (comp. R. 66). _Tripoli_, see p. 406. Skirting the flat, sandy coast, with its numerous oases, including that of _Tajûra_ (p. 411), we pass the small _Râs Sotara_, _Râs el-Hamra_ (‘red cape’), and _Râs Ligata_. In the fertile undulating plain to the E. of the small port of _Ligata_ (lighthouse; sailing-boat from Tripoli in about 7 hrs. if the wind is favourable) lies _Lebida_, _Lebda_, or _Khoms_ (pop. 3500; Brit. vice-cons.), in its oasis, a poor little seaport (for alfa) with open roads, relics of old fortifications, and an Italian school. About 2 M. to the S.E. of Lebida lies the site of =Leptis Magna=, which fell into decay after the first irruption of the Arabs. In ancient times it was one of the richest trading towns in N. Africa. It was the starting-point of the coast-road to Carthage (see p. 407) and also of the Limes Tripolitanus, the Roman frontier-wall, which down to the conquest of the Garamantes (p. 407) and the Gætuli in the 2nd and 3rd cent. A.D. protected the province of Africa against the Sahara tribes. The ancient harbour, with its massive quays, at the mouth of the _Kinyps_, which was a copious stream in the Roman age (now a scanty brook, the _Oued Lebda_), is completely choked with sand. The once famous oasis and the grand ruins of the time of Septimius Severus (p. 407) also, except the triumphal arch (comp. pp. 315, 316), are almost entirely buried in sand. On the rocky coast, which here endangers navigation, we next pass the _Râs et-Tabia_, adjoined by the little port of _Marsa Ugra_, and then, situated in the oasis near the _Râs es-Sahal_, _Slîten_ or _Zelythen_ (pop. 7000), a seaport for alfa. Beyond the _Râs el-Ihûdi_ we sight _Cape Mesurata_, the ancient _Promontorium Trikeron_ (‘triple horn’) or _Cephalus_, a striking landmark. The small port of =Mesurata= or _Misrâta_ (pop. 3000), in its little oasis of palms, fruit, and olives, is noted for its carpets and woven stuffs. Leaving the coast we now steer to the E. across the _Syrtis Major_, or _Gulf of Sidra_, the largest on the N. African seaboard. The town of =Benghazi= or _Bengâsi_ (Albergo Maffei, near the harbour, Italian; Brit. consul, J. F. Jones; pop. 20,000, incl. 1200 Europeans, mostly Maltese and Greeks, and 2500 Jews; garrison 3000) is the capital of the Turkish province (mutessariflik) of _Benghazi_ or _Barca_, which was separated from Tripolitania in 1869. Its dazzling white houses extend beyond the isthmus of the _Sebkha_ or salt-lake (with its large evaporating grounds) and over the broad corn-growing coast-plain bordering the plateau of Merj (p. 414). The large _Gasar_ or castle, now the seat of the governor (mutessarif), with barracks, together with the lighthouse and a windmill, form the chief landmarks as we make for the harbour. The harbour, much silted up and very imperfectly protected by an unfinished breakwater, is sometimes rendered inaccessible for months in winter by the prevailing W. gales. The steamers have to lie to, under steam, some 3 M. off the coast, and passengers are landed in lighters or in rowing-boats. The chief sight is the _Market Quarter_, where caravans from the interior are sometimes met with. The minarets, as at Tripoli, are in the Turkish style. The European colony is mainly Maltese, Greek, and Italian. The _Italian School_ is attended chiefly by Jewish children. A branch of the _Banco di Roma_ (p. 406) and an _Italian Post Office_ have been recently established.—To the E. of the town is a beautiful _Palm Grove_. To the N.E. of Benghazi lie the ruins of _Euhesperidae_, or _Berenice_, as the town was called after the wife of Ptolemy III. Euhesperidæ, famed in Greek myth for the gardens of the Hesperides, was the westmost seaport-town of Barca, the ancient =Cyrenaica=, a fissured hill-region rising in terraces from the sea, which was colonized in the 7th cent. B.C. by Greeks, mostly Dorians from Thera (p. 417) and Crete (p. 415). From its loftily situated capital _Cyrene_ (p. 411), one of the richest and most brilliant cities in the Greek world, Greek culture spread rapidly over the whole coast-region, where the numerous seaports acquired also great wealth through the caravan-traffic with the interior. For a time (about 400–330 B.C.) the Cyrenians succeeded in repelling the attacks of the Carthaginians with their mighty fleet, but in 322 they succumbed to Ptolemy I. (p. 433), who united the different parts of the district under the name of _Pentapolis_ (‘five cities’). In 96 B.C. this region along with the Marmarica (p. 415) fell into the hands of the Romans, and it was united by Augustus with Crete as a Roman province. In the great revolt of the numerous Jews who had settled in Egypt and Barca in the Ptolemaic age, 200,000 Greeks and Romans are said to have perished in Trajan’s reign. This terrible disaster was followed by the irruption of Berber tribes and of Arab marauders, and later (after 1551) by the misgovernment of the Turks. The ruin of the country was completed by a gradual subsidence of the coast which seriously prejudiced navigation. Though well supplied with rain, extremely fertile, and not too hot in summer, this region is now but thinly peopled (about 500,000), and the only towns of any size are Benghazi, Merj (p. 414), and Derna (p. 414). The highlands are occupied by hordes of nomadic Arabs, who often defy the Turkish authorities, and who are largely under the influence of the fanatical brotherhood of the Senussîyeh. The convents of the sect serve also as caravanserais. European goods are conveyed by the caravan-route to Kufra, the headquarters of the sect, and thence to equatorial Africa. Fire-arms are frequently smuggled into the country, especially from Greece. The chief exports are cattle (to Malta, Syracuse, etc.), goatskins, barley (to England), wool (to Marseilles and Genoa), and butter (to Constantinople). Large flocks of sheep are driven overland into Egypt. Beyond Benghazi the steamer rounds _Râs Adrian_; whose name recalls the town of _Adrianopolis_ founded by Hadrian. On a height, farther on, appears _Tokra_, a poor village near the ruins of the Greek twin-towns of _Tauchira_ (_Teuchira_) and _Arsinoë_. The next place on the coast, at the foot of a chain of high hills overgrown with brushwood, is _Tolmeita_ (Ital. _Tolemáide_), the ancient _Ptolemais_ or _Tolometta_, now the site of imposing *Ruins (Greek, Roman, and early-Christian). The Greek Kothon was the harbour of =Barca=, a thriving Greek colony on the margin of the plateau, about 15 M. inland, founded about 540 B.C. and temporarily destroyed by the Persians in 510. The town was still a place of some importance in the middle ages as a military station and a resting-place for Mecca pilgrims, but now, under the name of _Merj_ or _Medinet el-Merj_, which has been given to the whole province, it has become a poor little Turkish garrison-town, inhabited by Arabs and Jews. No trace of its ruins is left. Passing the rocky islet of _Sarat_ and _Râs el-Hamâma_, the ancient cape _Phycus_, we reach the bold _Râs Sem_, the northmost point of Barca, about 10 M. to the N.W. of Cyrene (see below). In a small plain on the coast, between the Râs Sem and _Râs el-Hilil_ (the ancient _Naustathmus_), lies the poor seaport of _Marsa Susa_, recently colonized by Moslems from Crete. Near it are the ruins of _Apollonia_ (later _Sozopolis_), once the harbour of Cyrene, but destroyed by the silting up of the coast. From Marsa Susa a mule-track ascends to the S.W., through valleys with luxuriant vegetation and venerable olive-groves, past several ancient rock-hewn _Granaries_, and past a *_Necropolis_ with countless rock-tombs, to (3–4 hrs.) the ruins of =Cyrene= (2002 ft.; now _Krennah_ or _Gurena_), lying on the edge of a lofty plateau, with fine views all around. This was the capital of the Cyrenaica, founded near the fountain of Cyra about 620 B.C., but already spoken of in the 4th cent. A.D. as ‘urbs deserta’. The ruins have not yet been scientifically explored, but there are traces of streets, and, beneath a mantle of dense vegetation, scanty remains of the acropolis, the temples, and a Roman circus. Near them is a convent of the Senussîyeh, to which unbelievers are not admitted. About 10 M. to the S.E. of Marsa Susa, on the caravan-route to Guba (or Mara), once lay the town of _Ghermes_, whose *Ruins are the best preserved in the Cyrenaica (town-wall, forum, stadium, etc.). Beyond the bay of _Marsa el-Hilil_ the coast is again rocky. Near a beautiful, richly wooded ravine are the ruins of _Erythrum_. We next steer past _Râs Turba_ and then round the little _Tsor Kersa Islands_ and the _Râs Boasa_ (lighthouse). =Derna= (pop. 4000), the _Darnis_ or _Darnae_ of antiquity, a small seaport to the E. of the headland, but entirely destitute of a harbour, is now the chief trading town in E. Cyrenaica. Vessels anchor in the open sea, over a mile from the landing-place. Near the Turkish fort and the custom-house are remains of American fortifications (comp. p. 408) and a wireless telegraph-station. The town itself lies on a plateau in the finest *_Coast Oasis_ of Barca (yielding dates, figs, almonds, tobacco, etc.). In the principal square, near which the camel-caravans from the interior encamp, is the unpretending residence of the Turkish kaimakam. The shops in the busy market-street are mostly owned by Arabs and Greeks. Beyond the _Râs et-Tîn_ (Gr. _Chersonesos_), the coast recedes far to the S. The _Gulf of Bomba_, with its rocky islands, here forms a large natural harbour, open towards the E. only. Beyond _Menelaus Island_ (now _Susra Mesrâta_) once lay the _Portus Menelai_. The _Platea Island_ near it received from Thera, about 640 B.C., the first Greek colony in the Cyrenaica. We next skirt the _Marmarica_; the coast-region between the gulfs of Bomba and _Solum_. In the deep-set bay of _Tobruk_ (the ancient _Antipyrgos_) it possesses the best natural harbour between Bizerta and Alexandria, frequented chiefly by sponge-fishers. The featureless and inconspicuous coast of _Egypt_ is bounded by the low white dunes near the borders of the Libyan desert. Lastly we steer across the broad so-called _Arabian Gulf_, between the _Râs ed-Dabba_ and the _Nile Delta_ (p. 418), and enter the harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 418). 66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete. Between Tripoli and Constantinople there is a fortnightly service by the _Società Nazionale_ (Line VIII: Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi, Constantinople; comp. R. 64). Dep. from Tripoli every second Mon. aft., from Mesurata Tues. morn., from Benghazi Thurs., from Derna Frid. noon, from Canea Sat. night, from Candia Sun., from Smyrna Mon. midnight, arr. at Constantinople Wed. morn. (returning from Constantinople Mon. night, arr. at Tripoli the second Wed.); fare 117 fr. 60 or 78 fr. 40 c.—From Canea to the Piræus (for Athens) there are corresponding steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., of the Thessalian line of the Austrian Lloyd, and of Line X (p. 493) of the Società Nazionale. For the voyage from Tripoli to _Derna_, see R. 65. The steamer next touches at =Crete= (Gr. _Krētē_, Turk. _Kirid_, Ital. _Candia_), the fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean (5402 sq. M.; 303,550 inhab.), formerly Turkish, but nominally independent since 1908. Nearing the island we first sight the _Aspra Vuná_ (_Madaraes Mts._, 7907 ft.), generally snow-clad, the ancient _Leuka Orē_ (White Mts.). The vessel steers round _Cape Krio_, the S.W. point of Crete, and _Cape Busa_, the N.W. point, and passes the island of _Grabusa_. We next proceed to the E.N.E., past _Kisamo Bay_ and _Cape Spada_ (_Psakon_), the N. point of the island. Beyond the cape opens the broad _Bay of Canea_ (Gr. _Chanía_). In favourable weather the steamer anchors in the open roads of =Canea= (Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt.-Restaur. Bristol, pens. 5–8 fr.; at both it is advisable to ask charges; Brit. cons.-gen., R. Peel; pop. 21,000), the capital of Crete, on the site of _Kydonia_. The remains of the Venetian fortifications are interesting. Fine view from the lofty reservoir of the waterworks. Most of the consuls reside at _Chalepa_, the E. suburb. In stormy weather the steamers round the broad headland of _Akrotiri_ (once _Kyamon_) and anchor in _Suda Bay_, the only good harbour in the island. (Road to Canea.) After leaving Canea and passing _Cape Drépano_ we have a pleasant view of _Harmyro Bay_ and _Rethymno_, Ital. _Rétimo_ (pop. 9300), the ancient _Rhithymna_, now the third-largest town in Crete. In the heart of the island tower the _Psiloriti Mts._, the ancient _Ida_, often snow-clad, culminating in the _Stavros_ (8065 ft.). Farther on we pass _Cape Stavros_, an important landmark. We then steer to the S.E., between _Cape Panaghia_ and the barren island of _Dia_, Ital. _Standia_ (870 ft.), where vessels seek refuge from northerly storms, into _Candia Bay_ and anchor in the roads a little off the quay (lighthouse). =Candia= (Hotels, both near the landing-place: Cnossos, pens. 9–15 fr., with restaurant; Angleterre, rooms only, unpretending; advisable to ask charges at both; Brit. vice-cons., A. Calocherino; pop. 22,480), Gr. _Herákleion_, formerly _Megalókastron_, the seat of the Metropolitan of Crete, is said to have been founded by the Moors on the site of Herakleion, the port of Knossos. Here also the fortifications were built by the Venetians, and were bravely defended by their admiral Franc. Morosini against the Turks for three years until he had to capitulate in 1669. We walk from the landing-place through the main street and past a handsome Venetian palace to the chief square, with the _Morosini Fountain_. Straight on we come, at the E. end of the town, to an open space, at the N.E. angle of which is the— *_Museum_, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete. To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings, fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake. From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than an hour to the site of _Knossos_, the ancient capital of the island. The *_King’s Palace_, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned down in the Mycenæan period. The steamer next crosses the _Cretan Sea_, to the N.N.E., to two islands of the _Cyclades_ (p. 492): _Anaphe_ (1349 ft.) and _Santorin_ or _Thira_ (1857 ft.), the ancient _Thera_. Close to _Cape Oia_ (lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of an old crater (p. 492), are seen the ruins of _Thera_, the ancient capital. Next, on the left, we sight the island of _Iós_ or _Niós_ (2408 ft.). We then pass through the strait between _Amorgós_ (1233 ft.; lighthouse), the eastmost island of the kingdom of Greece, and the small island group of _Eremonisia_, flanking Naxos on the S.E. side. The high mountains of _Naxos_ (3289 ft.), the largest of the Cyclades, remain in sight long after we have passed the islet of _Donusa_ (1600 ft.). The islands of _Delos_, once the religious and economic centre of the Cyclades, and _Mykonos_ (1194 ft.) are only visible in the far distance in very clear weather. The ship presently nears the W. coast of _Nikaria_ (p. 492), an island belonging to the _S. Sporades_ (p. 490), and then (as do also the steamers from the Levant) passes through the _Strait of Chios_ (p. 492) and across the _Gulf of Smyrna_ (comp. p. 530). _Smyrna_, and thence to _Constantinople_, see pp. 530, 533–536. 67. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said. 1174 or 1278 M. STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at Alexandria, p. 432; at Port Said, p. 437). =1.= _North German Lloyd_: (a) from (Marseilles) Naples to Alexandria, in Jan.-April, on Frid. at noon (from Marseilles on Wed. aft.) in 4 days; returning from Alexandria Wed. aft. (from Naples Sat.); fares from Naples 240–480 or 140–180 marks (from Marseilles 280–520 or 160–200 marks); (b) E. Asiatic Line. (R. 24), from (Algiers, Genoa) Naples to Port Said every second Frid. night (returning Frid.), in 4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks; (c) Australian Line (R. 21), from (Genoa) Naples to Port Said every fourth Wed. night (returning Frid.), in 3–4 days; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=2.= _German E. African Line_: E. circular tour (RR. 17, 23) from (Marseilles) Naples to Port Said every third Mon. in 4 days; W. circular tour (RR. 4, 17, 23) from Port Said to Naples every third Sat.; fare 242 or 176 marks.—=3.= _Rotterdam Lloyd_, Batavia Line, from Marseilles every second Thurs. direct to Port Said (returning Tues.) in 5 days.—=4.= _Nederland Royal Mail_, Batavia Line, from Genoa direct to Port Said in 5 days.—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean Line, from Marseilles direct to Alexandria (Port Said, Jaffa, Beirut, R. 72), every Thurs. noon (returning Frid. aft.), in 4 days; fare 315 or 240 fr.; return-ticket (‘interchangeable’), available also for the quick boats of the Austrian Lloyd (R. 68), 603½ or 433¼ fr.—=6.= _Società Nazionale_, Line V (Genoa to Alexandria), from (Genoa, Leghorn) Naples on Thurs. aft. to Alexandria (returning Thurs. aft.), in 4 days; fare 252 or 172½ fr. The great liners of the P. & 0., Orient Royal, Royal Mail, White Star, Bibby, and other British companies are almost exclusively for through-passengers from Gibraltar or Marseilles to Port Said, India, Australia, etc. From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to _Naples_, see RR. 23, 24; from Naples to the _Straits of Messina_, see R. 27. On the left, beyond Messina, are seen the ruins of _Reggio_ (p. 159), at the foot of the _Aspromonte_, the S. point of Calabria. Leaving the Straits of Messina, we steer across the _Ionian Sea_, to the E.S.E., in a direct line for Egypt. _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159) remains long in sight. For two days we lose sight of land. The mountains of Crete (p. 415) are visible on the voyage to Alexandria only in perfectly clear weather; but on the voyage to Port Said we pass within a few miles of Crete and near the island of _Gavdos_, Ital. _Gozo_ (1063 ft.; lighthouse), which flanks Crete on the S.W. On the ALEXANDRIA VOYAGE, nearing land, we overlook the long isthmus of _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), from the sand-hill near _Abusîr_, on the E. shore of the _Arabian Gulf_ (p. 415), to _Ramleh_ (p. 436) and _Fort Abukîr_ on the W. shore of that gulf. The chief landmarks are the lighthouse of _Râs et-Tîn_ (p. 434) and _Fort Cafarelli_ or _Napoléon_ (p. 434). We pass through the strait of _Boghaz_, amidst the chain of cliffs between Râs et-Tîn and the fortified _Marabout Island_, and sight the two lighthouses of _El-Meks_ in succession. Lastly we steer through the outer harbour, with its breakwater, and past the _New_ or _Gabbari Mole_ (Môle aux Charbons), 1000 yds. long, into the inner harbour of _Alexandria_ (comp. p. 434). * * * * * On the PORT SAID VOYAGE the flat coast of Egypt is generally approached at night. We first sight the lights of _Damietta_, on the E. bank of the Damietta branch of the _Nile_, the ancient _Phatnitic Arm_. This and the Rosetta arm are now the only mouths of the river, which had seven in ancient times. A conspicuous landmark is _Fort Jemil_, between the former _Mendesian_ and _Tanitic_ mouths. It rises on the low downs flanking _Lake Menzaleh_ (970 sq. M.), the largest lagoon in the Nile delta. The entrance to _Port Said_ (p. 436), 766 yds. in breadth, is marked by a lighthouse, several minor lights, and a number of buoys. On the W. pier (r.) rises the Lesseps monument (p. 437). 68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ Brindisi. BETWEEN VENICE AND ALEXANDRIA (1423 M.), _Società Nazionale_ (Line VII: Venice, Alexandria, Port Said) on the 14th and 28th of every month (returning 1st and 15th), viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi, in 5–6 days; fare 280 fr. 95 or 191 fr. 30 c. (from Brindisi 195 fr. 25 or 132 fr. 15 c.). Agents at Venice, see p. 420; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432. BETWEEN TRIESTE AND ALEXANDRIA (1383 M.), _Austrian Lloyd_, two lines: 1st. Quick steamer from Trieste on Thurs. noon (from Brindisi Frid. aft.), in ca. 4 days (returning from Alexandria Sat. aft., from Brindisi Tues. foren.); fare 360 or 245 fr. (from Brindisi 300 or 200 fr.). 2nd. Trieste and Syria Line (R. 72), on Sat. foren., viâ Gravosa (occasionally) and Brindisi, in 5 days (returning Thurs. aft.); fare 250 or 175 fr. (from Brindisi 200 or 135 fr.). Agents at Trieste, see p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432. [Illustration: VENEZIA] BETWEEN TRIESTE AND PORT SAID, _Austrian Lloyd_, Syrian Line, see above; also the Bombay steamers (usually 1st and 16th of every month; to Port Said in 4 days), the Calcutta steamers (12th and 25th of each month; 6 days), and the Japan steamers (27th of each month; 6 days). Agent at Port Said, see p. 437. From Brindisi to Port Said, _P. & O._ on Sun. morn., corresponding with Calais and Brindisi express, chiefly for through-passengers to India. =Venice.=—At the RAILWAY STATION (Pl. C, D, 3; Restaurant, good), where care of heavier luggage may be left to the hotel porters, are a gondola station and two piers for the local steamers (see below).—Agents for sleeping-cars, _Thos. Cook & Son_ and _P. Faerber_ (see p. 420). ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor in the Canale di San Marco, opposite the Punta della Salute (Pl. G, 6). Custom-house examination on board. Gondola tariff, see below. =Hotels.= HÔT. ROYAL DANIELI (Pl. a; H, 5), on the Riva degli Schiavoni with its fine views, R. 7–30, B. 2, déj. 4, D. 7–10, pens. 15–25 fr.; *HÔT. DE L’EUROPE (Pl. b; G, 6), on the Canal Grande, entrance Calle del Ridotto, R. 5–8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 14–18 fr., frequented by American and French travellers; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. o ; F, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Via Ventidue Marzo, Ramo Minotto 2322, R. 7–30, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 7 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. BRITANNIA (Pl. c; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Corte Barozzi, similar charges; four high-class houses.—Less pretending: *GR.-HÔT. D’ITALIE (Pl. h; G, 6), in Campo San Moisè and on the Canal Grande, R. 3½–15, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5–6 fr., often full; *GRAND CANAL HOTEL & MONACO (Pl. l; G, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Vallaresso, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; *HÔT. REGINA (Pl. t; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. 5–18, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., frequented by English and American travellers; HÔT. DE MILAN & BRISTOL (Pl. u; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3–3½, D. 4½–5 fr.; HÔT. BEAU-RIVAGE (Pl. r; H, I, 5), Riva degli Schiavoni, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr., patronized by English and American travellers. =Restaurants.= *_Bauer-Grünwald_, Via Ventidue Marzo, adjoining the Gr.-Hôt. d’Italie; _Pilsen_, in the Moderne Hôt. Manin, N.W. corner of the Piazza of St. Mark. =Cafés.= _Florian_, _Aurora_, _Quadri_, all in the Piazza of St. Mark.—TEA ROOM. _Ortes_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2288. =Gondolas=, the famous and picturesque boats which are the cabs of Venice, have their chief station on the Molo (Pl. H, 6; p. 422). Tariff: in the town, per hour, 1–2 pers. 1½, 3–4 pers. 2, 5–6 pers. 2½ fr. (after dusk ½ fr. extra); half these charges for each addit. ½ hr.; from the _Molo_ to the sea-going steamers, or the reverse, 20 c. each passenger; trunk 20, small packages 5 c.—A boat with two _gondolieri_ costs double. (As a rule one, ‘basta uno’, is enough.) In case of dispute with the boatmen, often insolent and especially towards ladies travelling alone, a _vígile municipale_ (policeman) may be applied to. The =Local Steamers= (_Vaporetti Comunali_), which do not carry luggage, ply (except in fog) on the main line through the Canal Grande every 10–15 min., from 6 a.m. till midnight; fare 10, to the Lido 20 c. (money changed on board; fare paid on landing). The chief landing-stages (_Pontoni_), beginning from the station, are: 1. _Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3), near the exit from the station; 2. _Cerva_, Riva del Carbón (Pl. G, 4), for the Rialto bridge (p. 421) and streets (p. 421) leading to St. Mark’s; 3. _San Tomà_ (Pl. E, 5), for the church of the Frari (p. 422); 4. _Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6), for the picture-gallery (p. 422); 5. _San Marco_ (Pl. G, 6; near the Calle Vallaresso), for St. Mark’s; 6. _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, 5), for the Riva degli Schiavoni and St. Mark’s; 7. _Giardini Pubblici_ (Pl. L, 7); 8. _Lido_ (p. 424; April-Oct. only). In the reverse direction the steamers call at the _Riva del Carbón_ (Pl. G, 4) instead of Cerva, and at _Santa Lucia_, close to the entrance to the railway-station (see above), instead of Scalzi. A minor line connects the Riva degli Schiavoni (comp. Pl. H, 5, 6) with the islands of _San Giorgio Maggiore_ (Pl. H, I, 7; p. 424) and _Giudecca_; in April-Sept. every ½ hr., in winter hourly. A third line plies from the Riva degli Schiavoni (dep. near the Ponte della Paglia, Pl. H, 5, 6) direct to the _Lido_, every 20–30 min. Ticket 15, return 25 c.; or, incl. adm. to bath-house 40 c., incl. bath 1 fr. 30 c. =Post Office.= Fóndaco dei Tedeschi (Pl. G, 4; p. 421), near the Rialto bridge, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; poste restante in the court, on the left.—=Telegraph Office= (Pl. G, 6; also branch post-office), Bocca di Piazza, behind the W. side of St. Mark’s Piazza. =Banks.= _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2188; _Società Bancaria Italiana_, San Marco, Bocca di Piazza 1239; _Guetta_ (_American Express Co._), Campo San Moisè; _Thos. Cook & Son_, see below.—BOOKSELLER. _Istituto Veneto di Arti Gráfiche_, Piazza San Marco 40. =Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Piazzetta dei Leoni 289 (N. side of San Marco); _P. Faerber_, in Hôt. d’Italie (p. 419), also town-agent for the railway. =Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_, Piazza San Marco 118; _Hamburg-American_ (for winter pleasure-cruises by ‘Meteor’), P. Faerber, see above; _Società Nazionale_, Campo Morosini 2802; _Austrian Lloyd_, for the Venice and Trieste Line (p. 425), in the Piazzetta (p. 423); _Hungarian Croatian Co._, Thos. Cook & Son (see above). =Consuls.= British, _E. de Zuccato_, Traghetto San Felice, Grand Canal.—United States Consul, _J. V. Long_, Campiello Querini Stampaglia 5257. =Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), Campo San Vio 731; _Presbyterian_, Piazza of St. Mark 95. ONE DAY may suffice for a hurried glance, but a week or more should if possible be devoted to this unique city. Sail through the _Grand Canal_; inspection of the piazza and the church of _St. Mark_ and the _Doges’ Palace_ (p. 423).—Of the _Churches_ St. Mark’s (p. 423) is open throughout the day, Santi Giovanni e Paolo (p. 424) and Frari (p. 422) save from 12–2 (adm. in the afternoon, till their restoration is completed, 50 c.). The _Doges’ Palace_ is open on week-days, 9–3 (adm. 1 fr., or incl. visit to the Archæological Museum and the Prigioni 2½ fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free. _Academy_ (p. 422) on week-days 9–4 (adm. 1 fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free. _Venice_, Ital. _Venezia_, once the most brilliant commercial city in the world, now a provincial capital, with 148,500 inhab., of whom one quarter are practically paupers, is a commercial and naval port. It lies 2½ M. from the mainland in the lagoons, a shallow bay 25 M. long by 9½ M. broad, separated from the Adriatic by narrow sandy strips of land (_lidi_). The city is built on piles, on 117 islets, and is intersected by over 150 canals, which are crossed by 378 bridges. The interior of the town consists of a labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes, some of them scarcely 5 ft. wide. The centre of traffic is the _Piazza San Marco_ (‘la Piazza’), with the adjacent _Piazzetta_. The other open spaces are called _campi_ or _campielli_. The local name for a street is _calle_ or _salizzada_, and for a narrow canal _rio_. The tribe of the _Veneti_, the ancient inhabitants of N.E.Italy, were of Illyrian race, but became Romanized in the 3rd cent. B. C. The havoc committed on the mainland by the barbarian Huns compelled the inhabitants of the coast to seek refuge in the islands of the lagoons, where in 697 they formed the Venetian League, headed by a doge (_dux_). In 811 _Rivoalto_ (now Venice) became their capital. Aided by its close connection with the Byzantine Empire (p. 541), the town rose to be a rival of Genoa in its important traffic between East and West. In its art also Venice was under Oriental influence throughout the middle ages. After the conquest of Constantinople by the great doge _Enrico Dandolo_ in 1204, the lion of St. Mark laid his mighty talons on the coasts and islands of Greece and Asia Minor. On the Italian continent also the republic gradually extended its conquests to Bergamo. The 15th cent. saw the zenith of the republic’s glory, when her fleet commanded the whole of the E. Mediterranean. But after their capture of Constantinople in 1453 the Turks began to menace the Venetian supremacy. The discovery of America and of the new sea-routes to India carried the world’s traffic into new channels, while her continental possessions involved her in the wars between the rival powers of France, Austria, and Spain. Her protracted conflicts with the Turks led in 1718 to the final loss of all her Oriental possessions, and in 1798 her political independence was destroyed by the French. From 1814 to 1866 Venice belonged to Austria, and since 1866 has formed a part of the kingdom of Italy, under whose auspices her trade has somewhat revived. The *=Canal Grande= or _Canalazzo_, the main artery of Venice, intersects the city from the _Railway Station_ (Pl. C, D, 3) to the harbour (_Canale_ or _Bacino di San Marco_, Pl. G-K, 6, 7), from N.W. to S.E., and resembles an inverted _S_ in shape. The voyage through it by steamer (p. 419; 25 min.) or by gondola (p. 419; 1 hr., preferable) conveys a most striking impression of the magnificence of mediæval Venice. The canal is bordered with fine old guild-houses, sumptuous churches, and stately palaces of the 12–18th cent., and each of its bends reveals a new and picturesque vista. LEFT. │ RIGHT. │ _Chiesa degli Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3; │ church of the barefooted friars), │ in the highly ornate baroque style │ (1649–89). │ │ │_Fóndaco dei Turchi_ (Pl. E, 3; │‘trade hall of the Turks’), a late │Romanesque edifice (11th cent.), │restored in 1861–9, now the _Museo │Civico_. *_Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi_ (Pl. │ E, F, 3), the most beautiful │ early-Renaissance palace in Venice │ (1509), in which Richard Wagner │ died in 1883. │ │ │_Palazzo Pésaro_ (Pl. F, 3), the │most brilliant example of │late-Renaissance (1679), now the │_Gallería d’Arte Moderna_. *_Cà Doro_ (Pl. F, 3), the most │ elegant Gothic palace (15th cent.).│ │ _Fóndacodei Tedeschi_ (Pl. G, 4; p.│ 420), once the warehouse of the │ Germans (1505). │ The *_Ponte di Rialto_ (Pl. G, 4; ‘Rivo Alto’, the ancient name of Venice; comp. p. 420), is a marble arch of 29½ yds. span and 74 ft. in breadth, flanked with shops (1588–92). Near the bridge are the │ steamboat-piers of Cerva and Riva │ del Carbón (p. 419), whence the │ _Mercería_ (Pl. G, 4, 5), a street │ of shops, and the Calle dei Fabbri │ (Pl. G, 5) both lead in 5 min. to │ _St. Mark’s_. │ │ _Pal. Loredan_ (Pl. F, 5) and _Pal.│ Farsetti_, once Dándolo, both │ Romanesque (12th cent.). │ │ *_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance, │_Pal. Papadópoli_ (16th cent.). Sanmicheli’s masterpiece (16th │ cent.). │ │ │_Pal. Pisani_ (_a San Polo_), │Gothic (15th cent.). │ _Pal. Corner-Spinelli_, │_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance early-Renaissance, in the style of │(16th cent.). the Lombardi. │ │ │Near it is steamboat pier San Tomà │(Pl. E, 5; p. 419), for the old │Franciscan church *_Frari_ (Pl. E, │5; adm., see p. 420; ticket valid │also for San Tomà), in the Gothic │style (1380–1417), the │resting-place of many eminent │Venetians, with admirable │altar-pieces by Giov. Bellini and │Titian (temporarily in _San Tomà_, │close by; adm. 9–5, ticket 50 c. │admitting also to the Frari │church). │ │*_Pal. Fóscari_ (Pl E, 5), Gothic │(15th cent.). │ │_Pal. Rezzonico_ (Pl E, 6), built │in 1680. Robert Browning died here │in 1889. Between the Campo San Vitale (Vidal) and the Campo della Carità is the _Ponte di Ferro or dell’Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6). │Near the bridge is steamboat pier │Accadémia (p. 419) for the │*_Accadémia di Belle Arti_ (Pl. E, │6), containing admirable Venetian │pictures (G. Bellini, Carpaccio, │Titian, P. Veronese). Adm., see p. │420. │ _Pal. Cavalli_ (Pl. E, 6), now │ _Franchetti_, Gothic (15th. cent.).│ │ _Pal. Corner della Cà Grande_ (Pl. │ F, 6), by Jac. Sansovino (1532). │ │ _Pal. Contarini-Fasan_ (Pl. F, G, │*_Santa Maria della Salute_ (Pl. F, 6), Gothic (14th cent.). │G, 6), by Bald. Longhena (17th │cent.); fine pictures by Titian in │the sacristy. │ │_Dogana di Mare_ (Pl. G, 6), │custom-house (1676–82), on the │point between the Grand and the │_Giudecca_ canals. │ _Giardino Reale_ (Pl. G, 6), or │ royal garden, behind the Procuratie│ Nuove (p. 423). │ │ _Molo_ (Pl. H, 6), adjoining the │ Piazzetta (p. 423). │ From the Molo, or from one of the steamboat-piers (p. 419) of San Marco (Pl. G, 6) or San Zaccaria (Pl. H, 5), we next visit the **=Piazza di San Marco= (Pl. G, 5), the centre of the traffic of the city. Even now this far-famed piazza (182 yds. long, 100 yds. wide at the E. end, 61 at the W. end; paved with slabs of trachyte and marble) conveys an admirable idea of the ancient glory of Venice. On the N. and S. sides of the piazza rise the PROCURATÍE, once the residences of the nine procurators or highest officials of the republic. The _Procuratíe Vecchie_, on the N. side, were erected in 1480–1517. The _Procuratíe Nuove_, now used along with the adjacent old Library (see below) as a royal palace, were begun by Vinc. Scamozzi in 1584. The _Atrio_ or _Nuova Fábbrica_, on the W. side, dates only from 1810. The groundfloors of these buildings, flanked with arcades, are now occupied by cafés (p. 419) and shops. The old CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO, at the corner of the Old Library, collapsed in 1902, but has been rebuilt. The top of the tower (adm. 15 c.) commands a fine and extensive *View. The _Torre dell’ Orologio_, a clock-tower built in 1496–9, adjoining the Old Procuratie, forms the entrance to the _Mercería_ (p. 421). The church of **=San Marco= (Pl. H, 5), which is said to contain the bones of St. Mark, was begun in 830, rebuilt after a fire in 976, and restored after the middle of the 11th cent. in the Byzantine style. The ground-plan (83½ yds. long, 56¾ yds. broad in front) is in the form of a Greek cross (with equal arms), crowned with five domes. The front arm of the cross is flanked with a colonnade. Outside and inside the church is adorned with over five hundred marble columns, mostly Oriental, and with mosaics, chiefly of the 10–16th centuries. The Gothic additions to the façade (15th cent.) enhance its fantastic charm. Over the main portal are four antique bronze-gilt horses from Constantinople. The INTERIOR is wonderfully impressive. The beauty of the outlines and the magnificence of the decoration are equally striking. The priceless _Pala d’Oro_, which forms the altar-piece, from Constantinople (1105), is shown on week-days (11–2; ticket, 50 c., admits also to the _Tesoro_ in the right transept, 11–2). Adjoining the Piazza of St. Mark, on the side next the lagoon, is the *=Piazzetta= (Pl. H, 5, 6). The *_Librería Vecchia_, or old library, now part of the royal palace (see above), by Jac. Sansovino (1536–53), is one of the most beautiful secular buildings in Italy. The adjacent _Zecca_ (mint) now contains the famous library of San Marco. On the opposite (E.) side of the square rises the— **=Doges’ Palace= (_Palazzo Ducale_; Pl. H, 5), which is said to have been founded in 814 as the residence of the first doge. It was rebuilt after the fires of 976 and 1105, and has since been repeatedly restored and altered. The Gothic exterior is flanked with two superb arcades with pointed arches; the W. front dates from 1423–8; the S. front, next the lagoon, is of the 14th century. The _Porta della Carta_, the late-Gothic chief portal, next to the church, leads into the quadrangle of the palace, where the façades, though still partly Gothic, show the influence of the new Renaissance style. In the interior (adm., see p. 420) we visit the central and upper floors, containing the state-apartments which were redecorated after the fires of 1574 and 1577, a brilliant example of the Venetian late-Renaissance and rococo art. The countless pictures by Titian, Paolo Veronese, Jac. Tintoretto, and other masters, proclaim the ancient glory of Venice. (Guide unnecessary. Catalogues for public use on week-days.) The groundfloor contains the _Archaeological Museum_ (antiques, Renaissance sculptures, etc.). At the E. end of the Molo (p. 422) the _Ponte della Paglia_ (Pl. H, 5, 6), which crosses the _Rio di Palazzo_, affords a good view of the ‘Bridge of Sighs’ (_Ponte dei Sospiri_; Pl. H, 5), specially interesting to readers of Childe Harold. The latter bridge connects the Doges’ Palace with the _Prigioni di San Marco_. The contiguous =Riva degli Schiavoni= (Pl. H, I, 5; ‘quay of the Slavonians’) forms the sunniest promenade in the town. To the left, nearly opposite the _Monument of Victor Emmanuel II._, a narrow lane leads to the church of _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, I, 5; adm. in the afternoon 50 c.), built in 1458–1515. Over the second altar on the left is a Madonna by Giov. Bellini (1505). A few paces to the W. of the church is Campo San Provolo. The street of that name to the right, the first bridge to the left, and then the Calle Corte Rotta and the Ruga Giuffa (Pl. H, 5) lead to _Santa Maria Formosa_ (Pl. H, 4; knock at W. portal; gratuity 25–30 c.), with the famous *St. Barbara by Palma Vecchio. From the Campo Santa Maria Formosa we follow the Calle Lunga to the E., and near the end of it the Calle Bragadin to the left (N.) to the— Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, with the *_Monument of Colleoni_ (Venetian condottiere, d. 1475), the grandest equestrian statue of the Italian Renaissance, by the Florentine Andrea Verrocchio. The church of *_Santi Giovanni e Paolo_ (Pl. H, 4; adm. see p. 420), once the church of the Dominicans and the burial-church of the doges, erected in the Gothic style in 1330–90, is quite a museum of Venetian sculpture. The finest monument is that of Andrea Vendramin (d. 1478; in the choir, on the left), by Tullio and Ant. Lombardi and Al. Leopardi. On the S. side of the _Canale di San Marco_ (p. 421), reached by ferry from the Molo (‘traghetto’, 1–2 pers. 15, 3–4 pers. 20, 5–6 pers. 30 c.), or more quickly by steamer from the Riva degli Schiavoni (see p. 419), are the island and the Benedictine church of =San Giorgio Maggiore= (Pl. H, 7; if closed, ring on the right), built by Palladio (1565) and Ant. Palliari. The _Campanile_, 197 ft. high (ascent to the left of the choir; easy wooden stairs), offers a superb **View of the city, the lagoons, and the sea, embracing in clear weather the Alpine chain far away to the N. (finest in the early morning or just before sunset). [Illustration: TRIESTE] [Illustration: CHIARBOLA] The =Lido=, the most fashionable sea-bathing place in Italy (height of season July and Aug.), is reached either by the direct steamers or by those coming from the railway-station (p. 419, 420). An electric tramway connects the pier with the _Bath Establishment_ (café-restaurant) and with the large hotels on the shore.—See also _Baedeker’s Northern Italy_. * * * * * =Trieste.=—=Railway Stations=, 1. _Stazione Meridionale_ (S. Station; Pl. B, C, 2; buffet), 10 min. to the N. of the Piazza della Borsa, for Vienna, Abbazia and Fiume, and Cervignano (Venice).—2. _Stazione dello Stato_ or _di Sant’ Andrea_ (State Railway Station; Pl. A, 6), at the S. end of the Old Harbour (p. 426), 15 min. to the S.W. of the Piazza della Borsa, for the Tauern Railway, and for Assling and Vienna. Cabs, see below; hotel-omnibus 1 _K_. =Arrival by Sea.= The _Austrian Lloyd_ steamers anchor in the New Harbour (p. 426), at Moles I-III, near the Dogana (Pl. B, 2, 3) and the S. Station, or at the Molo San Carlo (Pl. B, 4; excursion-steamer ‘Thalia’). =Hotels.= GRAND-HÔTEL, Riva dei Mandracchio, adjoining the Lloyd Palace (p. 426), a first-class house, to be opened in 1911; HÔT. DE LA VILLE (Pl. a; C, 4), Riva Carciotti, with first-class restaurant, high charges, variously judged; HÔT. VOLPICH ALL’ AQUILA NERA (Pl. d; C, 4), with good café-restaurant, R. 3–8 _K_, B. 1 _K_ 20 _h_, D. 3 _K_, HÔT. TONIATO (Pl. h; C, 4), R. 3–10 _K_, both Via San Nicolò, good; HÔT. BALKAN (Pl. c; C, 3), Piazza della Caserma, R. from 3 _K_, B. 70 _h_, D. 2 _K_ 80 _h_; HÔT. VANOLI (Pl. k; B, 4, 5), Piazza Grande 2; HÔT. DELORME (Pl. b; C, 4), Via del Teatro 5; HÔT. CENTRAL (Pl. f; C, 4), Via San Nicolò 15, R. from 2 _K_ 50–4 _K_ 50 _h_, B. 1 _K_ 20 _h_. =Cafés.= _Caffè degli Specchi_, _Caffè al Municipio_ (in the town-hall), _Orientale_ (in the Lloyd Palace), all in Piazza Grande; _Stazione_, Piazza della Stazione. =Restaurants= at the hotels. Also, _Restaurant Dreher_, Via della Cassa di Risparmio (Pl. C, 4), near the Old Exchange (p. 426); _La Cooperativa_, Piazza San Giovanni 5 (Pl. D, 3, 4). =Cabs.= From or to the stations 1 _K_ 60 _h_ (9 p.m. to 6 a.m. t2 _K_); in the inner town per drive with one horse 1 _K_ (at night 1 _K_ 20 _h_), farther out 1 _K_ 40 or 1 _K_ 60 _h_; by time: ½ hr. 1 _K_ 20 _h_, at night 1 _K_ 60 _h_, ¾ hr. 1 _K_ 60 or 2 _K_ 20 _h_, 1 hr. 2 _K_ or 2 _K_ 80 _h_, each ¼ hr. more 50 or 60 _h_ (with pair, 1 _K_ 40 or 1 _K_ 60 _h_; 2 _K_ 20 or 2 _K_ 40 _h_; 2 _K_ 80 or 3 _K_ 20 _h_; 70 or 80 _h_). Trunk 50 _h_; small articles carried inside free, outside 20 _h_. =Tramways= from the Boschetto (beyond Pl. E, 2) viâ the Piazza della Borsa and Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea (p. 427) to _Servola_ (p. 427); from the S. Station to _Barcola_ (p. 427), etc.—ELECTRIC HILL-TRAMWAY (views on left, best to sit backward), from the Piazza della Caserma (Pl. C, D, 3) viâ (2½ M.) _Obelisco_ (80 _h_) in ½ hr. to (3¾ M.) the rail, station of _Opčina_ (p. 427; 1 M. to the S.W. from the S. Station). =Motor Omnibus= in the forenoon, on week-days only, every hour to _Miramar_ (p. 427; return-fare 3 _K_). =Steamboat Lines.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (offices in Lloyd Palace, Pl. B, 4) to Venice (daily in summer, in 4–6½ hrs.; in winter Tues., Thurs., Sat., returning Mon., Wed., and Frid.); quick boats to Alexandria; other lines to Syria and to Port Said (comp. p. 418); quick boats to the Piræus (for Athens) and Constantinople (R. 78), etc.; _Cunard Line_ (agents, Schröder & Co.), viâ Fiume, Palermo, Naples, and Gibraltar to New York (R. 16); _Austro-American Line_ (office Via Molin Piccolo 2) to Buenos Ayres, to Almeria, Cadiz, and Las Palmas, to New York, and to Patras (R. 78) and Palermo; _German Levant Line_ to Tunis, Algiers, and Oran; _Hungarian-Croatian Co._ (agent, Maule, Riva dei Pescatori 16) and _Croatian Steamboat Co._ to Fiume.—LOCAL STEAMERS (from Molo San Carlo, Pl. B, 4) to Barcola (p. 427), half-hourly in summer, and to Miramar (p. 427) twice daily. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 12; C, 3), Piazza delle Poste. =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _J. B. Spence_; vice-consul, _N. Salvary_.—United States Consul, _M. G. Hotschick_; vice-consul _O. Demartini_.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _R. Greenham_, Via San Lazzaro 15. =English Church Services=, in the Via San Michele 1714, every Sun. at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. _Trieste_ (pop. 221,000, Italians, Slovenians, and Germans; in 1758 about 6400 only), the Roman _Tergeste_, the chief seaport of Austria and in the E. Mediterranean, lies on the E. shore of the _Bay of Trieste_, at the head of the Adriatic and at the foot of the _Karst_ or _Carso Plateau_ (1945 ft.), which is often visited by N.E. gales (Bora). Having become the heiress of Venice Trieste was a free harbour from 1719 to 1891; in 1833 it became the seat of the _Austrian Lloyd_, the oldest and one of the greatest of the steamboat companies in the Mediterranean. The harbour is entered by ca. 12,000 vessels annually (imports 573, exports 508 million florins). The new Tauern Railway, completed in 1909, the direct route to the Baths of Gastein, the Tyrol, and thence to Germany, is expected to give a new impulse to the trade of the city. The =Harbour= comprises the _Porto Vecchio_ (Pl. A, B, 4), sheltered by the _Molo Santa Teresa_ (Pl. A, 5; lighthouse) of 1756, the _Porto Nuovo_ (Pl. A, 1–3), with its four moles and a breakwater 1186 yds. long, constructed in 1867–83, and the _Porto Nuovo di Sant’ Andrea_ or _Francesco Giuseppe Primo_ (Pl. A, B, 7). The last, in the _Bay of Muggia_, was completed in 1910. Between the Porto Nuovo and Porto Vecchio is the _Canal Grande_ (Pl. C, 4), completed in 1756, for small vessels only. Near the old harbour are the two busiest squares in the town, the PIAZZA GRANDE (Pl. B, C, 4) and the PIAZZA DELLA BORSA. In the Piazza Grande are a marble _Statue of Charles VI._ and the _Maria Teresa Fountain_ (1751). On its E. side rises the _Municipio_ or town-hall (Pl. C, 4). Next to the sea are pleasure-grounds; at the S. end of these is the _Lloyd Palace_ (Pl. B, 4); at the N. end is the _Luogotenenza_ (or governor’s residence; Pl. 7, C, 4). To the N. of the Piazza Grande are the _Theatre_ (Teatro Comunale Giuseppe Verdi, Pl. C, 4) and the _Tergesteo_ (Pl. 13; C, 4), the new exchange, built in 1852. The _Borsa_, or old exchange (Pl. C, 4), is now the seat of the chamber of commerce. The VIA DEL CORSO (Pl. C, D, 4), the main street of Trieste, running to the E. from the Piazza della Borsa, separates the new town from the streets of the old town, which ascend the castle-hill. The old _Castello_ (Pl. D, 5) now contains the barracks. Fine views are obtained from the terraces of the _Convento dei Cappuccini_ (Pl. D, 4, 5) and of the CATHEDRAL (_Basilica San Giusto_; Pl. 3, D, 5; closed 12–3), which is composed of three early-Christian churches (6th cent.), united in the 14th century. Between the cathedral and the Piazza Grande are the open-air _Museo Lapidario_ (Pl. 9; C, 5), Via della Cattedrale 9, and the _Arco di Riccardo_ (Pl. 1a; C, 5), the remains of a Roman arch. In the Piazza Lipsia, to the S.W. of the Piazza Grande, rises the _Commercial and Nautical Academy_ (Pl. 1; B, 5), containing the _Museo Civico_ of natural history and antiquities. Near it is the Piazza Giuseppina (Pl. B, 5), with a bronze monument by Schilling to the _Archduke Maximilian_ (d. 1867; see below). ENVIRONS. By the _Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea_ (Pl. A-E, 6, 7), past the _Stabilimento Tecnico_ (Pl. B, 7) and _Lloyd Arsenal_ (Pl. C, D, 7), to (2½ M.) _Servola_ (tramway, p. 425).—By hill-tramway (p. 425) to *=Obelisco= (1125 ft.; Hotel), with terrace; walk thence to the N.W. along the foot of the Karst to the _Belvedere_ (1303 ft.; fine view; best in the evening). The *Excursion to Miramar is best made in the afternoon; the traveller should ascertain whether or not the park and château are open. The highroad (4½ M.; motor-omnibus, see p. 425) skirts the coast. We may take the train also from the S. Station to (5 M.) _Miramar_ or to (5½ M.) _Grignano_ and descend thence in ¼ hr. (or ½ hr.) to Miramar, or take the tramway (p. 425) to _Barcola_ (sea-baths; Hôt. Excelsior) and walk thence to (2½ M.) Miramar (motor-omnibus 60 _h_). The pleasantest route, however, is that of the steamer (p. 425),—The imperial château of =Miramar=, on the beautiful _Punta di Grignano_, was built in 1854–6 by Archd. Maximilian. It was here that he accepted the imperial crown of Mexico (1864). The château, which has a charming park, is open to the public (10–12 and 3–5, in winter 2–4; adm. 60 _h_). From the S. station of _Opčina_ (pronounced Óptchina; see p. 425; ordinary trains only stop here) directly in ½ hr. (or from Trieste viâ Miramar, 10½ M. Nabresina, and 18 M. Opčina in 1¼–2½ hrs.) to (10 or 28 M.) =Divača= (pronounced Divátcha; 1418 ft.; Buffet, also R. 2 _K_ 80 _h_, good; quarters also at the Restaurant Obersnel), station for (1 M.) _Kronprinz Rudolf’s Grotto_ (tickets, etc. at the buffet), for the (¾ hr.) _Stephanie-Warte_ (1428 ft.; view), and for the grand _Cataracts and Caverns of St. Canzian_ (tickets and guides at the inn of Joh. Gombač at _Matavun_, ½ hr. below the Stephanie-Warte, ¾ hr. from Divača). See also _Baedeker’s Austria-Hungary_. * * * * * The ITALIAN STEAMERS from Venice to Alexandria usually leave the lagoons to the N. of the _Lido_ (p. 424), avoiding _Chioggia_ and the marshy delta of the _Po_. They then steer down the Adriatic Sea towards Ancona. In clear weather we obtain a superb view of the Alps, of the Euganean hills to the N.W., and of the _Apennines_, whose offshoots come close down to the Adriatic near _Rimini_. =Ancona= (Hôt. Roma e Pace, etc.; Brit, vice-consul; pop. 33,300, incl. about 6000 Jews), 140 M. to the S.E. of Venice, a strongly fortified town and the busiest seaport on the E. coast of Italy, is splendidly situated between the headlands of _Monte Astagno_ and _Monte Guasco_, the N.W. spurs of Monte Conero (p. 428). The _Harbour_, an oval basin open towards the W., is considered the best in Italy. The well-preserved _Arch of Trajan_, in marble, of 115 A.D., and a _Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Pope Clement XII. (1730–40) recall the two founders of the N. quays. The _Banchina_, on the E. side of the harbour, is a modern quay (1880). From the Dogana we may walk to the E. in a few minutes to the church of _Santa Maria della Piazza_, with its lavishly decorated façade (1210), and to the late-Gothic _Loggia dei Mercanti_ (Exchange; 1454–9). A little to the E. is the _Prefettura_ (15–16th cent.), with its fine quadrangle and a superb Renaissance archway. The Via del Comune, near this, leads to the N., past the _Palazzo del Comune_ (of 1493, but much modernized), to the *_Cathedral_ (San Ciriaco; closed 12 to 4.30), on Monte Guasco, a fine point of view. The church, in which Byzantine and Romanesque forms are mingled, dates from 1128–89; the fine porch is of the 13th century. The STEAMERS round the N. pier, and beyond _Monte dei Cappuccini_ (lighthouse) pass _Monte Conero_ (1877 ft.; the ancient _Promontorium Cunerum_), crowned with a Camaldulensian monastery. This limestone mass does not form part of the Apennines, in front of which it lies, and geologically considered is perhaps, like Monte Gargano (see below), a relic of the great Dalmatian limestone tableland (p. 429). The coast recedes. In clear weather we sight in succession the summits of the Central Apennines, snow-clad till July: _Monte Vettore_ (8130 ft.), the highest of the _Monti Sibillini_, the _Gran Sasso d’Italia_ (9561 ft.) in the _Abruzzi_, and the _Maiella_, with _Monte Amaro_ (9170 ft.). After some time we pass the four low _Trémiti Islands_, the mythical _Insulae Diomedeae_, and then the rocky island of _Pianosa_ (ancient _Planasia_), beyond which we sight _Monte Gargáno_ (3464 ft.; _Mons Garganus_), once, as late as the tertiary age, an island separated from the mainland by a strait. Off the lighthouse of _Vieste_, on the E. side of the peninsula, we steer away from the _Bay of Manfredonia_ and due S.E. to— =Bari= (Hôt. Cavour, Corso Vittorio Emanuele; Caffè del Risorgimento, at the hotel; Brit. vice-cons. and U. S. cons. agent; pop. 73,400), the ancient _Barium_, a provincial capital and the largest trading town in Apulia. As in the time of Horace, this is the part of the Adriatic where fish are most abundant. From the _Porto Nuovo_, on the N.W. side of the old town, Monte Gargano, often cloud-capped, is visible even in rainy weather. The small _Porto Vecchio_, on the E. side, admits small craft only. The sights of the old town are the _Castle_, once that of the Hohenstaufen, dating from Emp. Frederick II. (1223; now barracks and signalling station), the _Cathedral_, a Romanesque church of the 12th cent. modernized in 1745, and the church of _San Nicóla_, dedicated to St. Nicholas of Bari. San Nicola and the small church of _San Gregorio_ near it date from the end of the 11th century.—The old town and the new (_Borgo_) are separated by the broad _Corso Vittorio Emanuele_, which ends in pleasant promenades. Beyond Bari we skirt the coast, where in the seaports of _Mola di Bari_, _Polignano a Mare_, and _Monopoli_, with their white houses, we see the first signs of the Orient. The _Faro di Penna_, the lighthouse on _Capo Gallo_, and the lighthouses in the islands of _Sant’ Andrea_ (see below) and _Le Petagne_ mark the approach to (475 M.) _Brindisi_ (see below). The AUSTRIAN LLOYD STEAMERS, on leaving _Trieste_ (p. 425), steer to the S.W. through the _Bay of Trieste_, avoiding the numerous bays of the N.W. coast of _Istria_; then, beyond the lighthouse of _Salvore_, the ancient _Silvium Promontorium_, they keep in sight of the hilly, olive-clad W. coast of Istria. We pass the small coast-towns of _Umago_, _Cittanuova_, and _Parenzo_ (ancient _Parentium_), then the lighthouse on the _Marmi Bank_, the _Canal di Leme_, a kind of fiord, backed by _Monte Maggiore_ (4580 ft.), and the harbour of _Rovigno_, sheltered by cliffs (scogli). Beyond the cliff of _San Giovanni in Pélago_ (lighthouse) we pass the _Isŏle Brioni_, where the Venetians once quarried stone for their palaces and churches. Fine view of the deeply cut bay of _Pola_, the chief naval seaport of Austria, used also by the Romans of the imperial age as a naval harbour. Beyond _Cape Promontore_ (ancient _Polaticum Promontorium_), the flat S. extremity of Istria, with a lighthouse on the _Porer Cliff_, a delightful view in clear weather is revealed of the Dalmatian islands, relics of the ancient Dalmatian limestone plateau, now submerged in the Adriatic. The most conspicuous are _Lussin_ (_Apsorus Insula_), culminating in _Monte Ossero_ (1929 ft.), and to the E., overtopped by it, _Unie_ and _Sansego_ with their lighthouses. We pass the large islands of _Lunga_ or _Grossa_ and _Incoronata_ (_Celadussae Insulae_), lying off the coast near Zara. A good way farther on we sight the rocky islet of _Pomo_, midway between Dalmatia and the E. coast of Italy; then the islands of _Sant’ Andrea_ (1001 ft.), _Busi_ (788 ft.; containing the _Spelonca di Ballon_, resembling the blue grotto of Capri), and _Lissa_ (1920 ft.; ancient _Issa_), where the Austrian fleet defeated the Italian in 1866. Between the islands of _Cazza_ (797 ft.) and _Lagosta_ (1368 ft.; ancient _Ladesta_) and the Italian island-group of _Pelagosa_, we may descry _Monte Gargano_ (p. 428) to the S.W. in clear weather. We now steer straight towards the _Faro di Penna_ (p. 428). =Brindisi.=—The QUAY is on the N.E. side of the town; the STATION, on the S.W. side, is ¾ M. from the quay. Between them runs the Corso Garibaldi, continued to the W. by Corso Umberto Primo. HOTELS (charges should be agreed upon beforehand). _Grand-Hôt. International_, at the quay, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.; _Albergo Europa_, Corso Garibaldi 147, R. from 2 fr.; _Alb. Centrale_, Corso Garibaldi 67, near the harbour; these two, with restaurants, fairly good.—_Café Caprez._ CAB (bargaining necessary) from station to quay 60 c., 2 pers. 1 fr., 3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; ½ hr. 2, 1 hr. 3 fr.; at night 20 c. more; trunk 20 c. =Post & Telegraph Office=, Corso Umberto Primo and on the quay. BRITISH CONSUL, _S. G. Cocoto_. STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Società Nazionale_, Via Margherita 32; _Austrian Lloyd_, Thos. Cook & Son, Strada Marina.—The steamers are generally moored at the quay; otherwise, landing or embarkation 60 c.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _Sig. Nervegna_.—ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE in winter. _Brindisi_ (pop. 22,000), a quiet town, the seat of an archbishop, has been ever since ancient times an important starting-point for the East. In the middle ages its harbour was often sought by the Crusaders, and hosts of travellers now pass through it on their way to or from Egypt, India, Australia, etc. The inner harbour, sheltered from every wind, consists of two natural creeks formed by erosion; in the southmost, the Seno di Ponte Piccolo, 492 yds. long, the large steamers are easily berthed. The channel connecting the inner harbour with the outer had become choked with sand in the later middle ages, but was reopened in 1755 and lined with masonry in 1866. On the island of _Sant’ Andrea_, outside the harbour, rises a castle of the 15th cent., now a quarantine station. The town offers few sights. On a height close to the quay stands a _Column_, 62 ft. high, with a rich capital containing figures of gods. Adjacent is the base of a second column. The unfinished inscription on the first mentions Lupus Protospatha, a Byzantine governor, who restored the town in the 10th cent. after its destruction by the Saracens. These columns are said to have marked the end of the Via Appia which led from Rome to Tarentum and Brundisium, and they perhaps bore a beacon-fire. The Gothic _Castle_, with its huge round towers, on the N. creek, to the W. of the town, built by Emp. Frederik II. about 1235 and strengthened by Charles V., now contains a bagno for galley convicts. The baptistery of _San Giovanni al Sepolcro_ (11th cent.), with its fine portals and frescoes, is now a museum of antiquities. The _Cathedral_, in its present form, is of the 18th cent.; at the corner of a street opposite is a mediæval house with an elaborate balcony. The Norman church of _San Benedetto_ (early 13th cent.) has an interesting side-portal and fine cloisters. _Santa Lucia_ has a crypt with relics of Byzantine frescoes. Leaving Brindisi the STEAMER next passes through the _Straits of Otranto_, the entrance to the Adriatic, about 47 M. in breadth, within sight at first of the flat and marshy coast of Apulia, with the lighthouse of _San Cataldo_. To the E., on the coast of _Albania_, rise the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (p. 496). Far away to the left appear the _Othonian Islands_ (p. 496), belonging to Greece, and the W. coast of _Corfu_ (p. 495). Steering through the _Ionian Sea_ we near the W. coast of _Kephallenía_ (p. 500) and _Zante_ (p. 502). Off the _Strophades_ (p. 502) we sight the _Messenian Peninsula_, with _Mt. Ægaleon_ (p. 502). Beyond the _Œnussae Islands_ (p. 493) we proceed to the E.S.E. till at length we pass the W. coast of _Crete_ (p. 415) and the island of _Gavdos_ (p. 418). We then lose sight of land until near _Alexandria_ or _Port Said_ (comp. p. 418). [Illustration: ALEXANDRIE] 69. Alexandra.[6] ARRIVAL. Most of the steamers are berthed at the quay in the inner harbour (otherwise the fare to or from the steamer is 2 pias., at night 3 pias., each trunk 1 pias.). After the formalities of the sanitary authorities are concluded, the care of heavier baggage is entrusted to one of the Arabian hotel porters, or to Cook’s agents (p. 432), who wear an official cap or badge. The inclusive charge to the hotel or to the railway-station is 15–20 pias., which through-passengers to Cairo may sometimes pay in advance at one of the tourist agencies before starting on their journey. The custom-house examination is usually lenient. Footnote 6: MONEY. The _Egyptian Pound_ (£E, ‘livre égyptienne’) contains 100 _Piastres_ (pias.) of 10 _Millièmes_ (mill.) each. The Arabic for piastre is _kirsh_, pl. _kurûsh_ (pronounced in Cairo _’irsh_ and _’urûsh_), but the European name is known everywhere. Petty traders often distinguish between the ‘great piastre’ of 10 mill, (_kirsh sâgh_) and the ‘little piastre’ of 5 mill. (_kirsh tarifa_). In the following data the ‘great’ is always understood. The Egyptian pound is worth ca. 20_s._ 6_d._, the piastre nearly 2½_d._ Egyptian gold coins are rare, their place being taken by the sovereign (_ginê inglîsi_, 97½ pias.), the French 20 fr. piece (_bint_, 77 pias.), and the Turkish pound (_mejidîyeh_, 87½ pias.), which are all legally current. The silver coins are _riyâl masri_ (20 pias.), _nusse riyâl_ (10 pias.), _rub’a riyâl_ (5 pias., 1_s._ ¼_d._, often called a ‘shilling’ at Cairo), _kirshen_ (2 pias.), and _kirsh_ or _kirsh sâgh_ (1 pias.). Nickel: _nusse kirsh_ or _kirsh tarifa_ (½ pias.), 2 mill. (⅕ pias.), and 1 mill. (ca. ¼_d._). Copper: ½ and ¼ mill. Eastern European time, which is about 2 hrs. in advance of Greenwich, is observed in Egypt. =Railway Station.= GARE DU CAIRE or BAB EL-GUEDID (Pl. G, 5; buffet), near the old Porte Moharrem Bey. =Hotels= (English style). SAVOY PALACE (Pl. g; H, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette 35, R. 40–70,. B. 10, déj. 20, D. 30, pens. 80, omn. 5 pias.; METROPOLE HOTEL (Pl. k; F, G, 3), Rue Avéroff, near the E. harbour, R. 20–30, B. 6, déj. 15, D. 20, pens. 40–60, omn. 5 pias., well spoken of; EXCELSIOR HOTEL (Pl. a; H, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette 15; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. b; F, 4), Square Ste. Catherine, R. from 25, B. 6, déj. or D. 20, pens. 60–80, omn. 5 pias.; WINDSOR HOTEL (Pl. d; G, 3), Rue Avéroff 7, near the E. harbour, R. from 17, déj. 15, D. 20, pens. from 50 pias.; HÔT. BRISTOL (Pl. i; G, 4), Rue de la Gare de Ramleh; HÔT. DES VOYAGEURS (Pl. f; F, 4), Rue de l’Eglise Ecossaise 4, pens. 11 fr.; HÔT. BONNARD (Pl. e; F, 3), Rue Champollion 7, pens. from 42 pias.—=Hôtels Garnis.= HÔT. DU NIL (Pl. h: F, 3), Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 11; HÔT. CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; F, 4), Rue de France 2. =Cafés= (cup of Arabian coffee 1 pias.). Several in Place Méhémet Ali (Pl. F, 4), etc.—CONFECTIONERS. _Confiserie Albengo_, Rue Chérif Pacha 17; _Groppi_, same street, No. 33; _Zola_, Rue Toussoun Pacha 3; _Sault_, Rue _Chérif_ Pacha 26. =Restaurants.= _Ristorante Firenze_, Rue de la Poste 14 (Pl. F, 3, 4); _Restaurant Universel_, Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 9 (Pl. F, 4); same street, Nos. 3 and 6, _Old Bourse Bar_ and _Spathis_; _Castelli_, Rue Chérif Pacha 1. =Tramways= (see Plan), all diverging from Place Méhémet Ali. Uniform fare, 1st cl. 10, 2nd cl. 5 mill., with right to one change of car.—Electric line to Ramleh (p. 436) every 5 min. till midnight (dep., see Pl. G, 3).—There are in addition several services of MOTOR OMNIBUSES plying within the town and to the suburbs. =Cabs= (Arabic _arabîyeh_). In the town, drive of 10 min. 2 pias., with two horses 3 pias.; 20 min. 2½ or 4 pias.; ½ hr. 3 or 5 pias.; hr. 6 or 9 pias.; each addit. ¼ hr. 1½ or 2 pias.; from steamer to railway-station 3 or 5 pias. (See tariff in vehicle as to suburbs). The aid of a friend who speaks the language is desirable in bargaining for long drives. =Post Office= (Pl. F, 3), open 7–12 and 2 to 9.30. Postage, see p. 441. France has its own post-office, Rue de la Gare de Ramleh 2.—=Telegraph Offices.= _Egyptian_, Rue Tewfik Premier 1; _British_, Rue du Télégraphe Anglais 5 (Pl. F, 4). =Consulates.= British (Pl. 6; H, 3), Rue de l’Hôpital Egyptien: consul-general, _D. E. Cameron_; vice-consul, _E. H. Mulock_.—United States, Rue Chérif Pacha 21; consul, _D. R. Birch_; vice-consul, _F. L. Romeo_. =Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue de la Porte de Rosette 2; _Clark_, Grand-Hôtel; _Hamburg-American_, Square Ste. Catherine (Pl. F, 4); _F. Th. Fotiades & Co._, Rue Chérif Pacha 22. =Physicians.= _Dr. Morrison_, Place Méhémet Ali; _Dr. Webb Jones_, Rue de Stamboul; _Dr. Elkins_ (Government Hospital); _Dr. Forster_ (lady-doctor); _Dr. Hoddad_, Rue de la Gare de Ramleh 29. =Steamboat Offices.= _Peninsular & Oriental_, Rue Avéroff (Haselden & Co.; ‘Box 153’); _Messageries Maritimes_ (RR. 67, 72), Ricard, Rue de l’Eglise Debbane 5; _Austrian Lloyd_ (RR. 68, 72), Rue de la Porte de Rosette; _Società Nazionale_ (RR. 67, 68, 72), Capt. Baldovino, Rue Sésostris 12; _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (RR. 72, 75, 76), Rue Centrale; _North German Lloyd_ (R. 67) and _Rumanian Mail_ (R. 76), Müller & Co., Rue Sésostris 16; _German Levant Line_ (R. 72), Stross, No. 11, same street; _White Star_, Ross & Co., Rue de la Marine; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (RR. 72, 75, 76), Reidemeister, Rue St. Marc 1. =Banks= (usually 9–12 and 3–5). _Ottoman_, Place Méhémet Ali 5 (Pl. F, 4); _National Bank of Egypt_, Rue Toussoun Pacha 4 (Pl. G, 4); _Anglo-Egyptian_, Rue Chérif Pacha 7; _Crédit Lyonnais_, same street, No. 4; _Bank of Egypt_, Rue Tewfik 4; _Deutsche Orientbank_ (Pl. F, 4), Rue Adib 4. =Photographs.= _Reiser & Binder_, Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse 6 (also art-dealers); _Lassave_, Rue de l’Eglise Debbane 7; _Fettel & Bernard_, Rue Toussoun Pacha 1. Photographical requisites at _Delmar’s_, Rue Tewfik Premier. =Theatres.= _Zizinia_ (Pl. G, 4), Rue de la Porte de Rosette, often closed; French and Italian operas, alternating after 1st Jan. with Cairo.—VARIETY THEATRES (all with gardens): _Alhambra_ (Pl. G, 4); _Nuovo Teatro Alhambra_, cor. of Rue Misalla and Rue de la Gare de Ramleh (Pl. G, 3).—_Jardin Rosette_, Rue de la Porte Rosette (Pl. H, 4). =Churches.= _English_ (_St. Mark’s_; ‘Egl. anglicane’; Pl. F, 4), Place Méhémet Ali; chaplain, _Ven. Archdeacon Ward, M. A._; services on Sun. at 8, 11, and 6.15 o’clock.—_Presbyterian_ (_St. Andrew’s_; Pl. 1, F, 3, 4), Rue de l’Eglise Ecossaise; service on Sun. at 10.30 a.m.—_American Mission_ (‘Egl. améric.’; Pl. G, 4), Rue Sidi el-Metwalli. ONE DAY, when time is limited. Forenoon, _Place Méhémet Ali_ (p. 434), the _Arab_ and _Turkish Quarters_ (p. 434); tramway or cab to _Pompey’s Pillar_ (p. 435); *_Catacombs of Kôm esh-Shukâfa_ (p. 435). Afternoon, _Rue Chérif Pacha_ (p. 435) and _Museum_ (p. 436). A ‘billet cumulatif’ obtained at the Museum (8 pias.) admits also to Pompey’s Pillar and the Catacombs. _Alexandria_, called by the Arabs and Turks _Iskanderîeh_, the second town of Egypt, strongly fortified, and one of the most important trading places on the Mediterranean, lies in 31° 11′ N. lat. and 29° 53′ E. long., at the W. end of the _Nile Delta_ (p. 418), on a strip of land separating _Lake Mareotis_ from the sea. The population is about 377,000, incl. 48,000 Europeans (‘Franks’), chiefly Greeks and Italians, but many French and Austrians and a lesser number of English and Germans. The Moslems live mostly in the N. and W. quarters (comp. p. 434), the Europeans chiefly in the E. quarter or in Ramleh (p. 436). Alexandria was founded in 331 B. C. by _Alexander the Great_, who endeavoured to blend the land of the Pharaohs with his new Greek empire. His Egyptian governor and successor, _Ptolemy I. Soter_ (323–286), made Alexandria a centre of art and science. He founded the Museum, an institute for the promotion of science and poetry, to which the famous Alexandrine library was attached. The highly advantageous position of the town, which was connected, through Lake Mareotis, with the Nile by several navigable channels, and whose harbour (unlike the other older seaports at the mouth of the Nile) was protected by marine currents from being silted up, led to the surprisingly rapid development of its trade and prosperity under the _Ptolemies_. Alexandria had attained its zenith when, in 48 B. C., the Romans intervened in the quarrels between _Cleopatra_ and her husband _Ptolemy XIV._ Both _Caesar_, who entered Alexandria in triumph after the murder of Pompey at Pelusium, and _Antony_ were ensnared by Cleopatra. After the defeat of Antony’s partisans _Augustus_ founded the large E. suburb of _Nicopolis_. When at its prime the city is said to have had a population of half-a-million inhabitants. The Greek element predominated, after which came the Egyptian, while a Jewish community had existed here ever since the time of Ptolemy I. Christianity also took root in Alexandria at an early period, having been first proclaimed here, according to tradition, by St. Mark the Evangelist. In the time of _Trajan_ (96–117) the revolt of the Jews, who then composed one-third of the population, gave rise to terrible bloodshed and disaster. A century later the emperor _Caracalla_ (211–7) paid a fateful visit to the city, and, to punish the citizens for their contumacy, ordered many of them to be massacred and the famous academy to be closed. The city suffered even more severely from the persecution of the Christians under _Decius_ (250) and _Valerian_ (257), from the plague in the reign of _Gallienus_, and from its battles with the Palmyrenes (260–8). Having become, like Carthage, a stronghold of Christian erudition, Alexandria afterwards became the chief scene of the embittered controversies between _Arius_ (d. 336), a presbyter of the city, and the ‘orthodox’ bishops _Alexander_ and _Athanasius_ (328–78). Even after the victory of the Athanasians at the councils of Nicæa (325) and Constantinople (381) the Arian heresy, which admitted the divine nature of Christ but denied his identity with the Father, subsisted for centuries among the Germanic tribes. Under _Theodosius I._ (379–95) paganism received its death-blow, when the patriarch _Theophilus_ waged war against all heathen temples and monuments. But the material prosperity of the city declined at the same time. The citizens were no longer able to pay for the cleansing of the Nile and the maintenance of the canals, and they were further impoverished when the patriarch _Cyril_ banished the Jews. In 619 the Persian _Chosroes_ made Alexandria his base for the conquest of Egypt. The country was next overrun by the hordes of caliph _Omar_, whose general Amr ibn el-Âsî captured Alexandria in 641. Its importance now declined still further in the same proportion as Cairo, the new capital of the conquerors, rose to wealth and importance. In 1303 and 1326 a great part of the city, with the Pharus (p. 434), was destroyed by earthquakes. Lastly, the discovery of America and of the sea-route to India completed the ruin of its trade. About the year 1800 the population of Alexandria had dwindled to about 5000, but _Mohammed Ali_ (p. 414) wisely laid the foundations of a new era of prosperity. He improved the harbours and constructed canals. His great work was the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 434), begun in 1819, which fertilized anew the environs of the city and again connected it with the interior of Egypt, which had long been obliged to export its produce by way of Damietta and Rosetta. Subsequent rulers also were zealous for the welfare of Alexandria. During the revolt of the national party under _Arâbi Bey_ (1882) Alexandria was bombarded by the British fleet and the European quarter was burned down, but since then the city has resumed its steady and vigorous career of progress. The old town of to-day lies partly on the _Heptastadion_, the embankment ‘seven stadia’ (about 1430 yds.) in length, which ever since the time of the Ptolemies has connected the mainland with the island of _Pharos_, but which in the course of centuries has been greatly widened. At the E. extremity of the island, now peninsula, rises the picturesque _Fort Kâït Bey_ (Pl. D, E, 1), on the site of the famous ‘Pharus’, a lighthouse erected under Ptolemy II. Philadelphus by Sostratus of Cnidos, in 280–279; it was originally 400 ells (590 ft.) in height, and was deemed one of the seven wonders of the world; it is supposed to have been the prototype of the Egyptian minaret (comp. p. 445). The main or ‘great’ harbour of that period, protected by a huge embankment, is now the _Port Est_, the new quays of which afford a pleasant seaside walk and are being completed as a fashionable boulevard. The _Port Ouest_, the ancient _Eunostos_ (‘haven of happy return’), was little used till the later Roman age. Improved since 1871 it now consists of an inner basin of 475 acres, and a new outer harbour of 1750 acres (p. 418). From the beginning of the Gabbari Mole extend quays with warehouses along the E. side of this harbour to the _Naval Arsenal_ (Pl. C, D, 3). Of the 2000 steamers entering the port annually more than half are under the British flag. The inner harbour is connected with the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 435) by means of locks. The chief exports are cotton, cotton-seed, grain, beans, rice, sugar, onions, and tomatoes. The Rue de la Marine (Pl. E, D, 5, 4; tramways, see p. 431) and its continuation the Rue Moutouch Pacha (Pl. D, 4, 3) form one of the chief approaches to the peninsula of _Pharos_ (see above). Between the viceregal _Palace of Râs et-Tîn_ (Pl. A, B, 3) and the Port Est lies the TURKISH QUARTER, with its pretty houses and a few gardens. The RUE RÂS ET-TÎN, the main street of the N. quarters, leads past the _Government Buildings_ (Pl. D, E, 3), to the S.E., to the ARAB QUARTER, lying on the ancient Heptastadion (see above) and containing several _Sûks_ or markets, which present an interesting picture of Oriental life. The Rue de France (Pl. E, F, 3, 4), the S.E. prolongation of the Rue Râs et-Tîn, leads to the =Place Méhémet Ali= (Pl. F, 4), the focus of European life, planted with trees and adorned with a _Statue of Mohammed Ali_ (p. 444) on horseback. The chief buildings here are the _Palais de Justice_, the _Bourse_, and the _English Church_. The last is adjoined by _St. Mark’s Building_, belonging to the British community and used as a school and for official purposes. From the W. harbour the Place Méhémet Ali is reached by the Rue Bab el-Karasta (Pl. E, 5) and Rue Anastasi (Pl. E, F, 5, 4), skirting the lofty _Fort Cafarelli_ or _Napoléon_ (Pl. E, 5; signalling station). A few paces to the S. of the Place Méhémet Ali lies the triangular Square Ste. Catherine (Pl. F, 4), named after the Catholic _Church of St. Catharine_. From this point we walk (or take a car or motor-omnibus, see p. 431) to the S.E. through the Rue Abou Dardah (Pl. F, 4, 5) and Rue de la Colonne Pompée (Pl. F, G, 6, 7), past the _Sidi Amr Mosque_ (Pl. G, 6) and a large _Cimetière Arabe_ (Pl. F, 6, 7), to a bare hill, on the right, covered with débris. Here in the time of the Ptolemies rose the _Serapeum_, the most superb temple in the city, dedicated to Serapis, god of the lower regions. On the same site now stands POMPEY’S PILLAR (Pl. F, G, 7; adm. 3 pias.; see also p. 432), the grandest memorial of antiquity in the city. We ascend by steps to the plateau. All around are traces of recent excavations, chiefly bringing to light relics of Roman edifices. The column, composed of red granite from Assuan, is 88 ft. high including the mutilated base. It is perhaps a Christian monument of victory, dating from the time of Emp. Theodosius I. (p. 433), signalizing the destruction of the Serapeum (391). In the middle ages it was supposed to be the tomb of Pompey. We follow the Rue Karmouss (Pl. G, 7, 8), which leads hence to the S. to the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_, and diverging to the right viâ the Rue Bab el-Melouk, we pass a small mosque and reach (10 min.) the entrance (Pl. ‘E.’; F, 8) to the— *=Catacombs of Kôm esh-Shukâfa= (Pl. F, 8; ‘hill of potsherds’), an Egyptian burial-place of the 2nd cent. A.D., hewn in the rock. Adm. from 8 a.m. till dusk (5 pias.; see also p. 432). The tombs, discovered in 1900, consist of several stories and afford an excellent example of the characteristic Alexandrine blend of the Egyptian with the Græco-Roman style. They probably belonged to some Egyptian magnate. Around the principal chambers are plainer vaults for the domestics of the family. Modern stairs ascend to the restored entrance on the hill-top. The interior is rendered accessible by wooden bridges and lighted by electricity, but is partly under water. A spiral staircase, lighted by a large round shaft, descends near a sarcophagus-chamber of later date to two stories. From the entrance to the upper story we enter a rotunda covered with a kind of dome. On the right are two smaller vaults with niches, sarcophagi, and shelf-tombs (loculi). On the left is a large chamber, the Triclinium Funebre, used for funeral banquets. The stairs divide farther down, affording a survey of the principal chambers, and lead round the entrance to the *Tomb Chapel on the lowest floor, with three niches for sarcophagi. Round the chapel runs a gallery, accessible from the vestibule, with 91 shelf-tombs. An important thoroughfare, leading to the N.E. from the Rue Abou Dardah (p. 434), is the Rue Sidi el-Metwalli (Pl. F, G, 5, 4), with its continuation the RUE DE LA PORTE DE ROSETTE (Pl. F-I, 4, 3). These streets unite at the end of the busy Rue Chérif Pacha (Pl. F, G, 4), a street of shops, coming from the Place Méhémet Ali (p. 434). This thoroughfare corresponds with the E. half of the _Dromos_, the main street of the ancient city, which ended at the _Canopic Gate_, the site of the now removed Porte de Rosette. In the Rue du Musée, a N. side-street, is the— *=Museum= (Pl. H, 3), a building in the Greek style, which contains an extensive collection of Græco-Roman antiquities, mostly Alexandrine, found in catacombs and tombs. Adm. daily, 9–12 and 3 to 5.30, 2 pias. (see also p. 432; closed on Thurs. in summer). From the ante-room we see the statue of Hercules in the transverse gallery between the main wings of the building (see below). The side-room contains a topographical collection. Room I (on the right). Christian antiquities, including tombstones and some of the terracotta flasks in which pilgrims brought holy oil from the tomb of St. Menas (d. 296) at Mariut.—Rooms II-V. Alexandrian coins, stamps from Greek amphoræ, etc. Room VI. Inscriptions and tombstones. On the right, Ptolemaic *Tombstones (Nos. 83, 97, etc.), resembling those of Attica in the 4th cent. B.C.—Rooms VII-IX. Egyptian antiquities. (In Room VIII, No. 380. Fine bas-relief with a man, a harper, and singing-women.) Rooms X & XI. Egyptian monuments and smaller sculptures. (In R. XI, No. 3704. Portrait-head in black basalt.)—Rooms XII & XIII. Portrait-busts and sculptures. (In R. XII, Case B, admirable small busts of Alexander; *66. Marble Head of Hercules or, according to others, of Zeus.) Rooms XIV & XV. Architectural fragments. (In R. XV, No. 3, painted capitals from palaces of the Ptolemies.)—Room XVI. Sculptures. Rooms XVII & XVIII. Small objects of art. In R. XVII glass; mummies with portraits of the deceased painted on wood (2nd cent. A.D.). In R. XVIII small clay figures of the Ptolemaic and Roman periods; among the former, *Figures of girls in the style of the Tanagra figurines. Room XIX. A mosaic and cinerary urns from Shatbi.—Room XX. Tomb accessories.—Room XXI. Objects from tombs, including elegant bronze wreaths; terracotta figures.—Room XXII. Architectural fragments; mosaics from Canopus. In the gallery crossing the garden is a colossal figure of Hercules. From the Museum the Rue du Musée to the N.W., the broad Rue d’Allemagne to the left, and the Rue Missala to the right soon lead to the old _Ramleh Railway Station_, now used for the electric line (see p. 431) to =Ramleh= (_i. e._ ‘sand’), a villa suburb and sea-bathing place, inhabited in summer by wealthy Alexandrians and Cairenes. At _San Stefano_, the terminus, is the _Hôtel Casino San Stefano_, with a theatre and concert-rooms (adm. 5 pias.). From Alexandria to _Cairo_, see R. 71. 70. Port Said. ARRIVAL. The steamers moor alongside the Quai François-Joseph or in the Bassin Ismaïl. If they are not berthed at the quay the fare for landing at the Custom House (Pl. 8) is 1½–2½ piastres (trunk 2, small packages 1 pias.). The North German Lloyd provides a steam-tender in winter, which lands passengers free of charge. Heavy luggage had better be entrusted to one of the hotel-porters, or to an agent of Messrs. Cook (comp. p. 431) or of the Hamburg-American Line. RAILWAY STATION near Lake Menzaleh (p. 418), 10 min. to the W. of the Custom House. HOTELS. *_Eastern Exchange Hotel_ (Pl. a), Rue Sultan Osman, pens. from 12s., English house; *_Savoy_ (Pl. d), corner of Quai François-Joseph and Rue el-Tegara, with restaurant and bar, pens. from 62 pias. ; _Hôt. Continental_ (Pl. b), Rue el-Tegara, with bar, pens. 10_s._ 6_d._; _Hôt. de la Poste_ (Pl. c), Rue du Nil. CAB from the quay to the station 4 (at night 5) pias. [Illustration: PORT-SAÏD] POST OFFICES. Egyptian (Pl. 14) and French (Pl. 15), Rue du Nil.—TELEGRAPH OFFICES. Egyptian (Pl. 18), Rue el-Tegara; Eastern Telegraph Co. (Pl. 17), Quai François-Joseph, for Europe. CONSULATES at the Quai François-Joseph. British (Pl. 3): consul-general, _E. C. Blech_; vice-consul, _T. D. Dunlop_.—United States (Pl. 2): consular agent, _H. Broadbent_. TOURIST AGENTS. _Thos. Cook & Son_, Quai François-Joseph; _F. C. Clark_, Savoy Hotel; _Hamburg-American Line_, Rue du Nil. STEAMBOAT OFFICES. All the important companies have offices on the quay. _L. Saxon & Co._ (Società Nazionale) are also Lloyd’s Agents. BANKS. _Bank of Egypt_ and _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue du Nil; _National Bank of Egypt_, Rue Eugénie; _Ottoman_, Bassin du Commerce.—Money, see p. 431. PHYSICIANS. _Dr. Curling_, _Dr. W. Hayward_ (Egyptian Government Hospital); _Dr. E. Cuffey_ (Lady Strangford Hospital); _Dr. J. H. Wigham_. ENGLISH CHURCH. _Church of the Epiphany_ (‘Eglise angl.’ on Plan), Rue el-Tegara; services every Sun. at 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. _Port Said_ (pop. 42,000, incl. 11,300 Europeans) lies at the E. end of the strip of land between _Lake Menzaleh_ (p. 418) and the open sea, at the N. end of the _Suez Canal_, to which it owes its foundation. Its trade, chiefly through-traffic, is growing rapidly. The _Harbour_ of 570 acres has a depth of 26 ft., which is maintained by laborious dredging. It is sheltered by two massive breakwaters, the _Jetée Ouest_, 2460 yds. long, with a statue of Ferd. de Lesseps (1805–94), the builder of the Suez Canal (1859–69), and the _Jetée Est_, 1750 yds. long. The former protects it against the mud of the Nile. Between these is the _Digue Nouvelle_, an inner breakwater 597 yds. long, for shelter against E. winds; on the mainland opposite (to the W.) rises the *_Phare_, a lighthouse 174 ft. high, visible 23 M. away. The inner harbour of 220 acres consists of the _Bassin Ismaïl_ (with its three very shallow creeks), the _Bassin des Chalands Charbonniers_, and the _Bassin Abbas Hilmi_ or _Africa Basin_, with the quarantine establishment. The Rue Quai du Nord (tramway) leads to the N.W. to the _Quartier Arabe_. 71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo. FROM ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO, 130 M., express in 3, ordinary train in 6–6¾ hrs.; 1st cl. 87½, 2nd cl. 44 pias.—FROM PORT SAID TO CAIRO, 145 M., express (with dining-car) in 4–4¼, ordinary in 5 hrs.; 96 or 48 pias.—As to transport of luggage, see p. 431.—The buffets at the intermediate stations are poor. _Alexandria_, see p. 431. The Cairo railway, the oldest in the East (1855), rounds _Lake Mareotis_ (p. 432), which during the Nile inundation rises at places to the permanent way. On the left is the _Mahmûdîyeh Canal_ (p. 434). On the right beyond (17 M.) _Kafr ed-Dâwâr_ appear the first cotton-fields.—38 M. _Damanhûr_ (pop. 22,100), the ancient Egyptian _Timē-en-Hor_ (town of Horus) and Roman _Hermopolis Parva_, is now the capital of the province of _Beheireh_, which extends from the Rosetta arm of the Nile (p. 418) to the Libyan desert. The soil becomes more fertile. Villages of wretched mud-huts and a few groups of trees appear. We cross the _Rosetta Arm_. 64½ M. _Kafr ez-Zaiyât_. 76 M. =Tanta= (Buffet; Hôt. Khédivial, etc.; Brit. cons. agent, E. Erba; pop. 80,000), capital of the province of _Gharbîyeh_, between the Rosetta and Damietta arms (p. 418), possesses a palace of the Khedive and an unfinished mosque of _Seiyid el-Bedawi_, a popular Egyptian saint, born at Fez (12th cent.). The great August fair (_el-Mûlid el-Kebîr_; ‘the great mûlid’, or nativity of the saint) is often attended by half-a-million persons, including a number of European merchants. Farther on we pass several cotton-cleaning mills, evidencing the prosperity of this region, and then cross the _Damietta Arm_. 101 M. =Benha= (Buffet), junction of the Port Said (see below) and Suez lines, is noted for its fruit. 120½ M. _Kalyûb_ (or _Qualioub_). The Libyan hills become more prominent; so also the _Mokattam Hills_ (p. 443) and the citadel with the slender minarets of the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454). Gardens and villas appear. On the left are the site of ancient Heliopolis (p. 459; obelisk not visible), Matarîyeh with its sycamores, Kubbeh, the residence of the Khedive, and the suburb of Abbâsîyeh (p. 459). 130 M. =Cairo= (chief station), see p. 439. * * * * * _Port Said_, see p. 436. The Cairo line at first skirts the W. bank of the _Suez Canal_ (p. 437). On the right lies _Lake Menzaleh_. Beyond (28 M.) _El-Kantara_ (‘the bridge’), the isthmus between lakes Menzaleh and _Balah_, traversed by the time-honoured military and caravan route from Egypt to Syria, we cross the bed of the latter lake, now largely drained. We next cross _El-Gisr_ (‘the barrier’), a hill 52 ft. high, between lakes Balah and _Timsâh_ (‘crocodile’), once the most serious obstacle in the way of the canal. 49 M. =Ismaîlîya=, or _Ismaïlia_ (Buffet; pop. 7000), junction for Suez, a quiet little town on the N. bank of Lake Timsâh. The train now runs to the W. through the _Arabian Desert_, intersected here by the _Wâdi Tûmîlât_, and skirts the _Ismaîlîyeh Canal_ (p. 454). Near (85 M.) _Abu Hammâd_ begins the well-watered and well-planted E. part of the Nile Delta. To the S. of the railway lies the Biblical land of _Goshen_ (Gen. xlv. 10), which was miserably neglected during the Turkish period, but has now awakened to new life. [Illustration: CAIRO (LE CAIRE)] 97 M. =Zakâzîk= (Buffet; Brit. cons. agent, G. Diacono; pop. 60,000), capital of the E. Egyptian province of _Sharkîyeh_, favourably situated at the junction of several railways and on the _Muizz Canal_ (part of the ancient Tanite arm of the Nile, see p. 418), is a rapidly improving place. It is the chief seat of the Egyptian cotton and grain trade. The large cotton-mills give some quarters of the town quite a European look.—Near _Tell Basta_, ½ hr. to the S.E. of Zakâzîk, are the ruins of the ancient _Bubastis_ (Egyp. _Per-Bastē_, the _Pi-beseth_ of Ezekiel xxx. 17). 116 M. _Benha_, and thence to (145 M.) _Cairo_, see p. 438. Cairo.[7] =Railway Stations.= =1.= _Central Station_ (Pl. B, 1; Buffet), for Alexandria, Port Said, and Upper Egypt, to the N.W. of the town, beyond the Ismaîlîyeh Canal, ½ M. from the Ezbekîyeh.—=2.= _Pont Limûn Station_, or _Gare de Matarîyeh_, adjoining the central, for Matarîyeh (Old Heliopolis), for the electric line to the Heliopolis Oasis (see p. 441), etc.—=3.= _Bâb el-Lûk Station_ (Pl. B, 5), for Helwân (p. 464).—The hotel omnibuses and the porters and tourist-agents (p. 441) await the arrival of the express trains. Or an Arab porter, wearing a metal badge on his arm, may be engaged to carry luggage to an omnibus or a cab (tariff, see p. 441). Heavy luggage is taken to the hotels in separate vehicles. Footnote 7: A STREET is often called _sikkeh_ or _tarîk_. A _shâria_ (French _chareh_) is an avenue or boulevard; _derb_ is a road (also caravan-route); _hâra_, a lane (also quarter of the city); _atfa_, a blind alley or _cul-de-sac_; _mîdân_, a square. Most of the names have been affixed, since the British occupation, in Arabic character and in English or French transliteration. It should be noted that in the Plan and in the text the English _ee_ is replaced by the continental and more usual _i_ or _î_ and the French _ou_ or English _oo_ usually by _u_ or _û_. =Hotels= (mostly in the English style and excellent, but generally crowded in Jan.-March; advisable to telegraph for rooms from Alexandria or Port Said; closed in summer or charges reduced). _In the Town_: *SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Kâmel, with terrace, garden, restaurant, bar, post-office, etc., pens. from 80 pias., patronized by American and English travellers; *SAVOY (Pl. B, 4), Mîdân Suleimân Bâsha, pens. from 80 pias., with excellent restaurant (déj. 30, D. 50 pias.); *SEMIRAMIS (Pl. A, 5), Kasr ed-Dubara, on the Nile, with garden and roof-terrace, restaurant, post-office, etc., pens. from 80 pias.; *CONTINENTAL (Pl. B, C, 3), Place de l’Opéra, with terrace, restaurant, etc., pens. from 70 pias., frequented by English travellers; *HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Maghrâbi, with terrace, etc., pens. 70–80 pias.—*NATIONAL (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Suleimân Bâsha, pens. from 50 pias.; NEW KHEDIVIAL HOTEL (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Bâb el-Hadîd, pens. from 45 pias.; EDEN PALACE (Pl. C, 3), Shâria el-Genaïneh, pens. from 50 pias., frequented by English and American travellers; VILLA VICTORIA (Pl. B, 3; private hotel), Shâria Shawarbi Bâsha, quiet and well-situated, pens. 70 pias.; VILLA NATIONALE, Shâria Shawarbi Bâsha (Pl. B, 3), also a private hotel, with garden and tennis-court, pens. 50 pias.; BRISTOL & DU NIL (Pl. C, 2, 3), Mîdân el-Khaznedâr, pens. from 65 pias., commended; MÉTROPOLE (Pl. B, C, 3), Hâret Zogheb, pens. 50–60 pias., well spoken of; HÔT.-PENS. ROSSMORE HOUSE (English), Shâria el-Madabegh 13, pens. 40–50 pias.—HÔT. DES VOYAGEURS (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Nubar Bâsha, pens. 45–50 pias., with good cuisine, patronized by the French; HÔT. ROYAL (Pl. C, 2), Shâria Wagh el-Birket, with bodega, pens. 60 pias.; HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. B, 2, 3), Shâria Kâmel, pens. 40 pias.; HÔT.-PENS. SUISSE, Shâria el-Genaïneh 10 (Pl. C, 3), pens. 33–40 pias. _On the Island of Gezîreh_ (p. 457): *GHEZIREH PALACE HOTEL, with restaurant, large gardens, daily concerts, etc., open Dec.-April, pens. from 80 pias. (electr. omnibus to station; motor to Shepheard’s and Semiramis Hotels frequently). _At the Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459): HELIOPOLIS PALACE HOTEL, a new extensive establishment of the first class, on the Metropolitan Line (p. 441), with all modern appliances, a garden, pavilion, etc., open in winter only, pens. 80–150 pias.; *HELIOPOLIS HOUSE, a first-class family-hotel, opposite the former, with a large terrace, restaurant, American bar, and concerts, pens. 40–50 pias.; PENS. BELLE-VUE, with restaurant (déj. 12, D. 16 pias.), pens. 40 pias. _Near the Pyramids of Gîzeh_ (p. 461): *MENA HOUSE HOTEL, with restaurant, swimming-bath, tennis-courts, golf-links, riding-track, etc., open 1st Nov. to 15th May, pens. 60–100 pias.; SPHINX HOTEL, near Kafr el-Haram (p. 463), a village 10 min. to the S.E. of the tramway-station, new, pens. from 10_s._ =Restaurants= at the hotels, with grill-rooms. Also _Santi_, in the Ezbekîyeh Garden, déj. 20, D. 25 pias.; _St. James’s_, Shâria Bûlâk, opposite the Egyptian Telegraph Office; _Restaurant du Nil_, Shâria Elfi Bey, déj. 14, D. 16 pias.; _Hermes_, Shâria Kâmel, opposite the Ezbekîyeh Garden. =Bars & Cafés.= _New Bar_, Place de l’Opéra; _Splendid Bar_, Shâria Kâmel; _Bar High Life_, Shâria Wagh el-Birket 42.—European style, but not for ladies: _Sphinx Bar_, Shâria Bûlâk, with grill-room; _Café Egyptien_, opposite Shepheard’s Hotel, with female orchestra; _Eldorado_, Shâria Wagh el-Birket.—The Arabian cafés (_kahwa’s_) are small and dirty. =Confectioners.= _Lehrenkrauss_, Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 34, with tearooms; _Sault_, _Groppé_, both Shâria el-Manâkh. =Beer.= _Restaurant Falck_, Shâria el-Mahdi (Pl. B, C, 2, 3); _Bavaria_, Mîdân Kantaret ed-Dikkeh (Pl. B, 2), good restaurant (déj. 12, D. 15 pias.); _Kemmler_, in the street on the N. side of the Crédit Lyonnais (p. 442); _Flasch_, near the Ezbekîyeh Garden. =Tramways= (fare 1 or ½ pias. unless otherwise stated; separate compartment for women). The following are the chief lines: 1. From the _Atabet el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 3) to Place de l’Opéra (Pl. C, 3), Shâria Bûlâk (Pl. B, A, 3), Kasr en-Nîl (Egyptian Museum), Kasr el-Aïni (Pl. A, 7), Rôda, Gîzeh Village, and the Pyramids (Mena House, see above), every 30 (aftern. every 20) min.; fare 4 or 2 pias.—2. From the _Atabet el-Khadra_ to Bâb el-Khalk (Pl. D, 4; Arab Museum), Shâria Khalîg el-Masri, Place Seiyideh Zeinab (Pl. C, 6), Shâria Mawardi, and the _Abattoirs_ (beyond Pl. B, C, 7), every 7½ min.—3. From the _Mîdân el-Khaznedâr_ (Pl. C, 3) to Kasr en-Nîl, Kasr el-Aïni (Pl. A, 7), Gezîret Rôda (p. 461), Pont Abbâs II., and the _Village of Gîzeh_ (p. 461), every 10 min.; fare 2 or 1 pias.—4. From the _Mîdân el-Khaznedâr_ to Mîdân Bâb el-Lûk (Pl. B, 4), Mîdân Ismaîlîyeh (Pl. A, 4, 5; for the Great Nile Bridge and Egyptian Museum), Shâria Kasr el-Aïni, Fum el-Khalîg (Pl. A, 7), and _Old Cairo_, every 6½ min.—5. From _Kasr en-Nîl_ (Gezîreh, p. 457) to Zoological Garden and _Village of Gîzeh_, every 10 min.—6. From _Bûlâk_ (p. 454) to Shâria Abou el-Ela (Pl. A, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, Atabet el-Khadra (see above), Bâb el-Khalk (see above), and the _Citadel_ (Place Rumeileh; Pl. E, 6), every 3 min.—7. From _Zabtîyeh_ (Shubra), to Central Station (Pl. B, 1), Shâria Clot Bey, Atabet el-Khadra, Mîdân Bâb el-Lûk (Pl. B, 4), and _Mîdân Nasrîyeh_ (Pl. B, 5), every 3 min.—8. From _Central Station_ (Pl. B, 1) to Shâria Abbâs (Pl. B, A, 2, 3), Shâria Mariette Bâsha (Pl. A, 4; Egyptian Museum), Kasr en-Nîl, _Mîdân el-Azhâr_ (Pl. B, 4; Gare de Bâb el-Lûk), every 9 min.—9. From _Ghamra_ (to the N. of Pl. D, 1) to Mîdân ez-Zâhir (Pl. D, E, 1), Bâb esh-Sharîyeh (Pl. D, 2), Muski, Bâb el-Khalk, and thence as No. 2, every 6 min.—10. From the _Atabet el-Khadra_ (Pl. C, 3) viâ the Place de l’Opéra, Shâria Bûlâk, Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn (Pl. B, 3, 2), Bâb el-Hadîd (Pl. B, 1), and Abbâsîyeh to the _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459), every 10 min.; in ca. 50 min.; fare 1½ or 1 pias. =Electric Railway= (‘Métropolitain’) from the _Pont Limûn Station_ (Pl. B, 1) every 10 min. (from 6.30 a.m. till 12 p.m.) to the _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459), in 10 min.; fares 1st cl. 2, 2nd cl. 1 pias. =Steam Ferries= between Bûlâk (Shâria Abou el-Ela; to the W. of Pl. A, 3; corresponding with tramway No. 6) and Gezîreh (p. 457), and between Old Cairo (p. 460; corresponding with tramway No. 4) and the village of Gîzeh (p. 461).—_Local Steamers_ from the Bûlâk Bridge (Pl. A, 4) to Bûlâk. =Cabs= (comp. p. 431), open victorias with two horses, abound in the European quarters and tourist-resorts. Closed cabs (landaus) usually have to be ordered, and the fares are higher. The TARIFF (in cab) is for 1–3 pers. (each addit. pers. 2, trunk 1 pias.) as follows: 1. DRIVE within a radius of 4 kil. (2½ M.) from the Administration Building (Gouvernorat; Pl. D, 4), for 1 kil. 3, each addit. kil. 2 pias.; if dismissed outside the zone named, 2 pias. more per kil.; waiting, up to ¼ hr., 2 pias. 2. BY TIME (Arab, bis-sâa), in town 1 hr. 10, each addit. ¼ hr. 2 pias.; per day (12 hrs.) 70 pias. 3. LONGER DRIVES. To the Citadel 10, and back 20 pias. (incl. stay of 1 hr.); to Old Cairo 12 or 18 pias. (halt of 1 hr.); to the Pyramids 50 or 80 pias. (halt of 3 hrs.); to the Heliopolis Oasis 30 or 50 pias. (halt of 2 hrs.). A gratuity (bakshîsh) of 5–10 per cent over the fare is usually given. Complaints, with the number of the cab and other details, should be lodged at the police-office (p. 442). During the season the demands of the cabmen are often exorbitant, but the mere mention of the dreaded word ‘karakól’ (prison) generally brings them to reason. =Motor Cabs= (with taximeter): 3½ pias. for the first 1200 mètres (¾ M.), 1 pias. each addit. 400 mètres (¼ M.), waiting 1 pias. for each 5 min. In addition to these fares a surtax must be paid for each drive as follows: from or to the Mena House (Pyramids) 10 pias., Heliopolis 8 pias., Citadel, Gîzeh 5 pias., Gezîreh 3 pias. =Donkeys= (Arabic _homâr_; per hour about 2, day 12 pias.) abound. They are pleasant on bridle-paths free from dust. The donkey-boys (_hammâr_) often lash the animals into a gallop, but this should be checked. _Ala mahlak_ means ‘slow’, _erbût_ or the English _stop_ ‘halt’. The bakshish should be of course proportioned to the donkey-boy’s behaviour. =Post Office= (Pl. C, 3; p. 446), corner of Shâria Tâhir and Shâria el-Baidak. The outside-offices, for the sale of stamps only, are open from 7.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. (inland letter ½, in postal union 1 pias.; post-cards 3 and 4 mill.). The offices inside are open from 9 to 6.30, with a short break at 12.30. Lists of the over-sea mails are exhibited in the vestibule. Notice of the arrival of registered letters is sent to the addressee, who obtains delivery by producing the notice, stamped by the hotel or signed by some well-known person. Branch-offices at Shepheard’s, the Continental, Ghezireh Palace, and Mena House. Letter-boxes at all the hotels. =Telegraph Office.= _Eastern Telegraph Co._ (Pl. B, 3), corner of Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn and Shâria el-Manâkh. _Egyptian_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, corner of Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn.—Branches at Shepheard’s, the Crédit Lyonnais, and Ghezireh Palace. =Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN, Shâria Gâmia esh-Sherkes (Pl. B, 4): consul-general and plenipotentiary, _Sir Arthur Hardinge_; consul, _A. D. Alban_; vice-consul _R. M. Graves_.—UNITED STATES, Kasr ed-Dubara: consul-general and plenipotentiary, _P. A. Jay_; vice-consul, _L. Belrose_. Also French, German, Austrian, Italian, etc. =Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_ (Pl. B, 2, 3), Shâria Kâmel 6; _Lubin_, Shâria Bûlâk 5; _F. C. Clark_, near Shepheard’s; _Hamburg-American Line_, Hôt. Continental (Pl. B, C, 3); _D. E. Munari_, Shâria Kâmel 5. =Steamboat Offices.= _Khedivial Mail_, _White Star_, _Union Castle_, _Thos. Cook & Son_ (see p. 441); _Messageries Maritimes_, Shâria el-Maghrâbi 10; _Società Nazionale_, Figari, Shâria el-Maghrâbi 33; _Austrian Lloyd_, Heller, same street, No. 2; _North German Lloyd_, _Rumanian State Maritime Service_, Sterzing, Place de l’Opéra 3; _German East African Line_, Fix & David, Shâria Mansûr Bâsha; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Alchewsky, Shâria el-Manâkh 6.—Notices of departure also posted in the hotels. =Police Office= (Pl. D, 4; p. 450; _Zabtîyeh_). About 300 officials, incl. a few Europeans, chiefly Italians, obliging to strangers and well organized. Complaints against the police must be lodged at the traveller’s consulate. =Banks.= _Crédit Lyonnais_ (Pl. C, 3), Shâria el-Bosta; _Ottoman_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn 13; _Bank of Egypt_ (Pl. B, 3, 4), Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 17; _Anglo-Egyptian_, Shâria el-Manâkh; _National Bank of Egypt_, Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 35; _Deutsche Orientbank_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Manâkh 23; _Banque d’Athènes_. =Shops.= BOOKSELLERS. _Diemer_, at Shepheard’s Hotel; _British Library_, opposite the Savoy.—PHOTOGRAPHS, at _Diemer’s_; also sold by _Dittrich_, Shâria Elfi Bey; _Paul_, Shâria el-Manâkh 26.—EMBROIDERY, CARPETS, and various ORIENTAL ARTICLES (mostly made in Europe): _Chellaram_, Hôt. Continental; _Madjar_, at Shepheard’s; _Spartali_, opposite the Savoy; _J. Cohen_, _Valliram Bros._, and other dealers in the Khân el-Khalîli (p. 446).—ARABIAN WOODWORK. _Parvis_, next to Shepheard’s (large warehouse near the entrance to the Muski, p. 446; to the left in the court); _Haloun_, Sikket el-Gedîdeh (Pl. D, 3); _Furino_, Shâria Suleimân Bâsha.—ANTIQUITIES (genuine) at the Egyptian Museum (p. 455). =Physicians= (addresses obtainable at the hotels, at Diemer’s, or at the chemists’). _Dr. Keatinge_ (head of the Kasr el-Aïni school of medicine), _Dr. Murison_ (of Victoria Hospital), _Dr. Milton_, _Dr. Phillips_, _Dr. Tribe_, _Dr. Madden_, and _Dr. Richards_, all English; _Dr. Keichline_, American. =Chemists.= _Pharmacie Anglo-Américaine_, Place de l’Opéra; _Pharm. Coscarelli_, Shâria Abdîn 17; _Pharm. Nardi_, in the Muski; _Anglo-German Dispensary_, Shâria el-Bawaki 11; _Savoy Pharmacy_ (_Norton & Co._), Shâria Kasr en-Nîl 34; _Stephenson & Co._, Shâria el Manâkh 15. =Theatres.= _Khedivial Opera_ (Pl. C, 3; p. 446; French or Italian), boxes dear; evening dress compulsory; office open 8–12 and 2–5.—_Théâtre Abbas_ (Pl. B, 2), Shâria Kantaret ed-Dikkeh, Ital. operas and Fr. operettas.—_Théâtre Printania_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Elfi Bey.—_Ex-Verdi_, Shâria Bâb el-Bahari 5, Arabian and Greek.—_Nouveautés_, Shâria Nubar Bâsha 9; _Jardin de Paris_, Shâria Imâd ed-Dîn; at both varieties.—_Summer Theatre_, mostly Italian pieces, in the _Ezbekîyeh Garden_ (p. 445).—EVENING CONCERTS by English military bands on Tues. and Thurs. in the Ezbekîyeh Garden (p. 445). =Churches.= _Church of England Services_ at _All Saints Church_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria Bûlâk (services at 8 and 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m.), and at _St. Mary’s_ (Pl. A, 5), Shâria Kasr el-Aïni.—_Church of Scotland_ (_St. Andrew’s_; Pl. A, 3), Shâria Bûlâk, to the S. of the Bridge of Abu’l Eileh.—_American Mission_ (Pl. B, C, 3), opposite Shepheard’s.—_Rom. Cath._ (_L’Assomption_; Pl. D, 3), Shâria el-Banadkiah 2, in the Muski; _St. Joseph’s_, in the Ismaîlîyeh quarter (Pl. A, B, 4).—_Orthodox Greek_ (_St. Nicholas_; Pl. D, 2, 3), in the Hamzâwî (p. 447).—_Coptic Cath._ (Pl. D, 3) and _Coptic Orthodox_ (Pl. C, 2).—_New Synagogue_ (Pl. B, 3), Shâria el-Maghrâbi, and others. =Collections= (closed on Frid. and Mohammedan festivals): _Arab Museum_ (p. 450), 9 to 4.30 (May-Oct. 8–1), adm. 5 (in summer 1) pias.—_Egyptian Museum_ (p. 455), 9 to 4.30 (May-Sept. 8.30 to 1), adm. 5 (in summer 1) pias.—_Khedivial Library_ (p. 451), exhibition-room 9–4, free. Visitors are admitted to most of the _Mosques_ (p. xxv) and to the _Mameluke Tombs_ (p. 458) daily except Frid. and at the hour of noonday prayer. Ticket (2 pias.) at the entrance. Fee of ½–1 pias. to the attendant who supplies slippers. THREE DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Muski_ (p. 446), _Market Quarter_ (p. 446), *_Gâmia el-Azhar_ (p. 447), _Muristân Kâlaûn_ (p. 448), *_Gâmia el-Muaiyad_ (p. 450), _Bâb Zuweileh_ (p. 450); afternoon, _Mameluke Tombs_ (p. 458) or _Gezîreh_ (p. 457) or _Heliopolis Oasis_ (p. 459).—2nd. Forenoon, _Arab Museum_ (p. 450; closed Frid.), _Medreseh Kâït Bey_ (p. 451), *_Gâmia Ibn Tulûn_ (p. 451); afternoon, *_Gâmia Sultân Hasan_ (p. 452), _Citadel_ (p. 453).—3rd. Forenoon, *_Egyptian Museum_ (p. 455; closed Frid.); afternoon, *_Pyramids of Gîzeh_ (p. 461).—Intercourse with natives, see p. xxv.—Guides, touts, and beggars should be summarily shaken off. _Cairo_, Arabic _El-Kâhira_ or _Masr el-Kâhira_, or simply _Masr_ or _Misr_ (after the old Semitic name of Egypt), lies in 30° 4′ N. lat. and 31° 17′ E. long., on the right bank of the Nile, about 12½ M. to the S. of the ‘cow’s belly’, where the river divides into the Rosetta and Damietta arms (p. 418).—On the E. side of the city, which covers an area of about 11 sq. M., rise the reddish rocky slopes of the _Mokattam Hills_ (p. 454; about 650 ft.), marking the beginning of the Arabian desert. Cairo, the largest city in Africa and in the whole of the Arabian world, is the residence of the Khedive and of all the chief authorities. The population is estimated at 630,000, including 50,000 Europeans, chiefly Greeks and Italians. The great majority of the citizens are Egypto-Arabian, Fellah (peasant) settlers, Christian Copts (also nearly pure descendants of the ancient Egyptians), Nubians, Turks, Armenians, and (about 6000) Jews; then negroes of many different tribes, Berbers and Arabs from the N. African seaboard, Bedouins (nomadic Arabs), Syrians, Persians, Indians. The street scenes in the older quarters are very curious and picturesque. HISTORY. In hoar antiquity a suburb of Heliopolis (p. 459) lay on the E. bank of the Nile, opposite the great Pyramids, and was called by the Egyptians _Kherē-ohē_, or place of combat, because the gods Horus and Seth, the tutelary deities of Upper and Lower Egypt respectively, are said to have fought there. The Greeks called it _Babylon_, probably in imitation of the Egyptian name of the island of Rôda, _Perhapi-n-On_, the ‘Nile city of On’ (Heliopolis). The Roman citadel of Babylon was garrisoned under Augustus by one of the three legions stationed in Egypt. In 611 A.D. the town was conquered by _Amr ibn el-Âsî_ (p. 433), who founded the new capital of the country in the plain to the N. of the fortress, a city which, unlike Alexandria, was to be free from the hated Christian element. On the site of his _fostât_ or tent he built a mosque, and the new city then took the name of Fostât. Between Fostât and the citadel and adjoining the older suburb of _El-Askar_ (of 815) the new quarter of _El-Katâi_ was begun by _Ahmed ibn Tulûn_ (868–83), founder of the Egyptian dynasty of the Tulunides, but it was burned down in 905. The Cairo of to-day owes its origin mainly to _Gôhar_, the general of the Fatimites (p. 323), who conquered Egypt in 969 and founded a new town to the N.E. of El-Katâi and made it the residence of the caliph and head quarters of his army. At the hour when its foundations were laid the planet Mars (Arabic Kâhir, ‘the victorious’) is said to have crossed the meridian of the new city, whence it received its new name of _Masr el-Kâhira_ or _El-Kâhira_, while Fostât was afterwards called, by way of distinction, _Masr el-Kadîmeh_ or _el-Atika_ (Old Cairo). In 973 _Abû Teminn el-Muizz_ transferred his residence from Mehdia (p. 369) to Cairo. Two centuries later the famous _Saladin_ comes prominently on the scene. This was the Kurd general of mercenaries, _Salâheddîn Yûsuf ibn Aiyûb_, who, on the death of the last Fatimite in 1171, usurped the supreme power. He built a new citadel on the slope of the Mokattam Hills and enclosed the whole city with a wall 29,000 ells long (p. 453), and Cairo soon became the most populous place in N. Africa next to Fez. Under the dynasty of the _Aiyubides_ (1171–1250) and the _Mameluke Dynasties_ (Bahrite, 1250–1382, and Circassian or Borgite, 1382–1517), the sultans chosen from the white body-guard, Cairo witnessed almost continuous scenes of revolution, rapine, and bloodshed. In 1302 it suffered severely also from an earthquake, and terribly in 1295 and 1492 from the plague. And yet, in spite or all these disasters, the city grew and prospered wonderfully. After his victory at Heliopolis in 1517 the Osman sultan _Selim I._ (p. 542) marched into Cairo; _Tûman Bey_, the last Mameluke sultan, was captured and executed; and Selim caused the finest marble columns in the citadel to be removed to Constantinople. Cairo now became the seat of a bey (‘prince’), who was placed over the twenty-four Mameluke chiefs entrusted with the government of Egypt and was controlled by a Turkish pasha. Thenceforth the city was a mere provincial capital. It was not till 1798 that Cairo again became prominent in history. After the Battle of the Pyramids _Bonaparte_ had his headquarters for several months in the ancient city of the caliphs. From Cairo in 1799 he started on his Syrian expedition; and when he returned to France Kléber remained behind as commander-in-chief of the French troops. Kléber was assassinated in Cairo in 1800, and the following year the French garrison, hard pressed by the grand-vizier and the British troops, had to capitulate. Under _Mohammed Ali_ (1805–48), the new Turkish pasha, with whom begins the modern chapter in the chequered history of Egypt, and who did much to develop the resources of the country, the citadel of Cairo witnessed another tragedy in 1811, when by his order the last of the Mameluke beys were shot (comp. p. 453). His successors, particularly _Ismaîl_ (1863–79; Khedive or viceroy from 1867) and _Tewfik_ (Arabic _Taufîk_; 1879–92), greatly improved and extended the city by the construction of new quarters (Ismaîlîyeh and Tewfîkîyeh, p. 454), though to the prejudice of its mediæval architecture; and under the present Khedive _Abbâs II. Hilmi_ (b. 1874) Cairo has expanded as far as the islands in the Nile. Since the defeat of the national party under _Arâbi Bey_ (p. 433) in 1882 the country in general and Cairo in particular have prospered greatly. The paramount British control of the administration is more noticeable at Cairo than at Alexandria or on the Suez Canal. A convenient short history of Cairo is ‘The Story of Cairo’, by _Stanley Lane-Poole_, in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (2nd ed., London, 1906). Comp, also ‘Cairo and its Environs’, by _A. O. Lamplough_ and _R. Francis_ (London, 1909, illus.; 20_s._) and ‘The City of the Caliphs’, by _E. A. Reynolds-Ball_ (Boston and London, 1897). HISTORY OF ART. The Arabian architecture of Egypt is founded partly on antique, on Byzantine, and on Coptic models which the conquerors of the country found ready to their hand, and partly on Persian types, developed under the Sassanides and adopted by the Arabs with the aid of native builders. The chief Arabian edifices at Cairo are the mosques, the fountains, and the tombs. The period of their construction extends from the time of the Tulunides (9th cent.) down to the conquest of Egypt by the Turks (1517). Of the earlier buildings, known to us only from the fantastic descriptions of Arabian authors, hardly a trace is left. The later edifices, partly of Arabian-Turkish type with Egyptian-Arabian ornamentation, seldom show much artistic merit. The oldest mosques (_gâmia_, or chief mosque; _mesgid_, smaller mosque or chapel), such as the Amru Mosque (p. 460) and that of Ibn Tulûn (p. 451), are simple in plan. A quadrangle (_sahn_), answering to the atrium of the Byzantine basilica, is flanked with four flat-roofed colonnades (_lîwân_), which on three sides are single or double, while on the fourth side, in the direction of Mecca, the chief lîwân (sanctuarium) is composed of several aisles or arcades. The cruciform _medreseh_ (school-mosque), of Persian origin, was first introduced by Saladin the Aiyubide. The lîwâns were now roofed with massive barrel-vaulting, and in their four corners were introduced schools or lecture-rooms for the four orthodox sects of Islam (Hanefites, Shafiites, Malekites, and Hambalites). To the second Mameluke dynasty (1382–1517) Cairo owes its most beautiful specimens of Arabian architecture. In the smaller mosques the lateral lîwâns were shortened, the court reduced in size, roofed in, and lighted from above, and the transepts were again roofed with flat timber ceilings. In the Turkish period, as in the case of the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454), the four lîwâns were often replaced by a single vaulted hall, preceded by a forecourt. The minarets, always in three stories, are of the Pharos or lighthouse type (p. 434; Arabic _manara_, light). Most of the mosques built since the middle of the 14th cent. have a _sebîl_ attached. This is a public street-fountain, roofed over, with a chamber above it (_kuttâb_) used as an elementary school. The tombs of sultans and emirs are always connected with the mosques. The tombs of saints or _sheikhs_, on the other hand, as everywhere in the East, are independent buildings, domed like the burial-chapels in the mosques. The ordinary tombs of the Moslems are underground chambers; above the vault usually stands a sarcophagus or cenotaph (_tarkîbeh_). Wealthy families enclosed their tombs with halls for funeral festivals, rooms for the mourners, a dwelling for the custodian, etc., collectively called a _hôsh_. Of the old palaces and caravanserais a few ruins only remain. The latter (_okellas_; Arabic _wakkâleh_) served also as warehouses (_khân_). Of the mediæval dwelling-house the so-called Bookbinder’s House (p. 449) is a good example. Sculpture and painting existed as independent arts under the Tulunides and Fatimites, being favoured by the Persians and the sect of the Shiites, but in the later Egyptian-Arabian art they survived only in the ornamentation of walls. The main features of this surface decoration consisted in curiously interlaced geometrical figures (entrelacs) and conventional foliage (arabesques). Both mosques and private houses often have charming _kamarîyehs_, or windows of perforated slabs of plaster, inlaid with coloured glass. The façades of the older houses are adorned also with picturesque oriel-windows and with _mashrebîyehs_, or balcony-gratings or lattice-work of beech-wood rods. a. Northern Quarters. The main thoroughfare here is the SHÂRIA CLOT BEY (Pl. B, C, 2; tramway No. 7, p. 440), leading from the _Railway Stations_ and the _Limûn Bridge_ (Pl. B, 1) to the Mîdân el-Khaznedâr (Pl. C, 3), adjoining which, between the old Arabian Cairo and the new town (p. 454), is the— =Ezbekîyeh Garden=, the chief rallying-point of strangers. The name is derived from the Ezbek mosque which once stood here, built in 1495 in honour of a general of the sultan Kâït Bey (p. 458). The grounds (adm. ½ pias.), 20 acres in area, laid out by _Barillet_ in 1870, contain many rare trees and plants. The open spaces are planted with _Lippia nodiflora_ instead of grass, which does not thrive in this dry climate. Among the attractions are a café, a restaurant, a summer theatre, and evening concerts (see p. 442). To the S. of the Ezbekîyeh Garden rises the _Opera House_ (p. 442), between which and the Hôtel Continental is the PLACE DE L’OPÉRA (Mîdân et-Teatro; Pl. B, C, 3), with the monument of the famous general _Ibrâhîm Pasha_ (d. 1848). From this point the Shâria Abdîn leads to the S. to the spacious _Mîdân Abdîn_, where the _Khedivial Palace_ (Pl. C, 4, 5) rises on the left. To the E. of the Place de l’Opéra, between the Ezbekîyeh and the Opera House, the Shâria et-Teatro leads to the small Mîdân Ezbek, in which are the _Tribunaux Mixtes_ (Pl. C, 3; international law-courts). A parallel street, Shâria Tâhir, in which is the _General Post Office_ (Pl. C, 3; p. 441), on the right, leads to the ATABET EL-KHADRA, where the principal tramways intersect (p. 440). On the E. side of this square begins the *=Muski=, or =Mouski= (Pl. C, D, 3), which, with its continuations the Sikket el-Gedîdeh and Shâria esh-Sharawâni (Pl. E, F, 3), is 1 M. long, and forms the chief artery of the Oriental quarters, intersecting the whole of the old town. Externally these streets have lost their mediæval character, the shops appearing quite European, but the motley throng that surges through them at all hours is still quite Oriental. At the end of the Muski, near the Sûk el-Kanto (Pl. D, 3), we enter the old =Fatimite City= (_Masr el-Kâhira_, p. 443), to whose second wall, dating from 1074, belonged the still existing N. gateways _Bâb el-Futûh_ and _Bâb en-Nasr_ (Pl. E, 2; p. 449), and the S. gateway _Bâb Zuweileh_ (Pl. E, 4; p. 450). The old town was bounded on the W. by the old town-conduit _El-Khalîg_, now Shâria Khalîg el-Masri (tramways Nos. 2 & 9, p. 440). The _Gâmia el-Ashraf_ (Pl. E, 3), a small mosque built by Sultan Bars Bey (1422–38), at the point where the Sikket el-Gedîdeh is crossed by the old and important line of streets (1 M. long) between Bâb el-Futûh and Bâb Zuweileh, lies in the heart of the =Market Quarter=, which, though usually overcrowded, especially in the early morning, should by all means be visited. Immediately to the left of the Shâria el-Khordagîyeh (Pl. E, 3; p. 448), which leads from the mosque to the N., is the _Sûk es-Sâigh_ (pl. siyâgh), the bazaar of the goldsmiths and silversmiths, who keep their wares under glass in their cramped little shops, selling them by weight (but often spurious). On the opposite (E.) side of the same street is the _Khân el-Khalîli_ (Pl. E, 3), founded in 1400 on the site of the Fatimite tombs, and once the centre of business. Vendors of silks and carpets, of trinkets and other wares are still located here. Buyers who are judges of carpets will select those of Bagdad or Brussa, but exorbitant prices are generally asked. The silk-stuffs of Lyons and Crefeld often do duty for those of Damascus. The main street of the khân, Sikket el-Bâdistân, contains two pretty Arabian gates. To the S. of the mosque of El-Ashraf runs the Shâria el-Ashrafîyeh (Pl. E, 3), whence the Shâria el-Hamzâwî es-Seghîr diverges to the right. This street, continued by the Shâria el-Hamzâwî el-Kebîr (Pl. D, 3), forms the _Sûk el-Hamzâwî_, the market of the Christian traders (Syrians and Copts). Here, immediately to the left, is the Shâria et-Tarbîyeh (Pl. E, 3), with the _Sûk el-Attârîn_, or spice-market (comp. p. 335). Opposite the entrance to the Hamzâwî is the Shâria es-Sanâdikîyeh (Pl. E, 3), also called _Sûk es-Sudân_, for the produce of the Sudan (india-rubber, dûm-palm nuts, etc.).—The last side-street on the left, the Shâria el-Halwagî (Pl. E, 3; the direct way to the university from Shâria esh-Sharawâni, p. 446), is the seat of the _Booksellers_ (over 20 shops). In the Shâria el-Azhar, behind the small _Mosque of Mohammed Bey Abû Dahab_ (1770), is the chief entrance of the— *=Gâmia el-Azhar= (Pl. E, 3, 4; adm., see p. 442; photographing prohibited), ‘the flourishing’, the finest building of the Fatimite period. It was completed by Gôhar (p. 443) in 973, and converted into a university by caliph El-Azîz in 988, but after the earthquake of 1302 was almost entirely rebuilt by Emir Salar. The venerable edifice, whose rectangular plan is still distinctly traceable, was again materially altered by the wealthy Abd er-Rahmân Kikhya in 1759. The university is still considered the most important in the territories of Islam. In 1909 there were 10,000 students (_mugâwirîn_) and 319 teachers (_sheikhs_). The rector is called the _Sheikh el-Azhar_. Adjoining the N.W. façade, erected by Abbâs II. (p. 444) in the neo-Arabian style, is the Bâb el-Museiyinîn (‘barber’s gate’), built in the time of Abd er-Rahmân, now the chief entrance, where a guide is assigned to the visitor. Adjacent to the gateway, on the right, is the _Mesgid Taibarsîyeh_, restored by Abd er-Rahmân, containing a superb mihrâb or prayer-recess of 1309, richly adorned with mosaics. On the left is the _Zâwiyet el-Ibtighâwîyeh_, also of the 14th cent., now the library. The handsome inner portal, built along with the contiguous minaret by Kâït Bey (p. 458), leads into the _sahn_ (p. 444), or chief quadrangle, flanked with five minarets, and always enlivened by knots of students, mostly grouped in their various nationalities. The colonnades, restored in the time of Tewfik (p. 444), have the Persian keel-arches, in special favour with the Shiites, the walls above which are tastefully decorated with medallions and niches and crowned with pinnacles. The lateral lîwâns on the N.E. and S.W. sides of the quadrangle are allotted to students of different countries and provinces as sleeping-apartments and studies (riwâk). The court of ablutions (p. 63), behind the N.E. lîwân, dates from the time of Kâït Bey. The _Chief Lîwân_, or sanctuary, on the S.E. side of the quadrangle, with its 140 antique and Byzantine marble columns, forms the great lecture-room. No lectures are given on Thursdays or during the fasting-month of Ramadan. The low front half of this great hall, with its four much restored rows of arcades, belongs to the original building. The dome of the vestibule, the broad transept borne by two rows of columns, and the dome of the old mihrâb, all point to the Sidi Okba mosque of Kairwan (p. 374) as their prototype. The raised inner half of the sanctuary, with its two prayer-niches, was added by Abd er-Rahmân. The dilapidated _Okella of Kâït Bey_ (1496), behind the S. angle of the university, with its sebîl (p. 445), has a charming façade. We next visit the N. half of the old city of the Fatimites. In the SHÂRIA EL-GOHERGÎYEH (Pl. E, 3), in line with Shâria el-Khordagîyeh (p. 446), we are struck with the façades (on the left) of the Muristân Kalâûn, the Medreseh Mohammed en-Nâsir, and the Barkûkîyeh, on the site of the Fatimite palaces. The =Muristân Kalâûn= (Pl. E, 3), a great hospital begun by the Mameluke sultan El-Mansûr Kalâûn (1279–90) in 1285, shows the influence of the European architectural style which the Crusaders had introduced into Syria. The massive portal, flanked with a minaret 192 ft. high, leads into a long corridor. On the left is a small _Mosque_, partly restored. On the right is the *_Tomb of Kalâûn_, completed in 1293 by his son Mohammed en-Nâsir (1293–1340), one of the most beautiful Arabian buildings in Cairo. The square hall has a rich timber ceiling; the mosaics of the walls and central pillars are composed of marble and mother-of-pearl, and the superb prayer-niche is enriched with porphyry columns and dwarf arcades. The wards for the sick and lecture-rooms, grouped round the large quadrangle, now partly used as store-rooms and workshops, are sadly disfigured. The adjoining *_Medreseh Mohammed en-Nâsir_ (Pl. E, 3), dating from 1303, also is in a ruinous condition. It is entered by a Gothic church-portal brought from Acre in Syria. The fine minaret, the sanctuary (on the left), and the tomb of the founder (on the right) show remains of tasteful stucco decoration recalling the Alhambra (p. 79). The _Barkûkîyeh_ (Pl. E, 3), the medreseh of the Mameluke sultan Barkûk (1382–99), with its octagonal minaret, has suffered from the gaudy modern painting of the sanctuary and of the mausoleum, in which reposes a daughter of Barkûk. The dikkeh for the prayer-reciter (p. 180) is modern. Farther to the N. in the same line of streets is the lively SHÂRIA EN-NAHHÂSÎN, in which is the market of the coppersmiths. On the right is the façade of the _Dâr Beshtâk Palace_ (Pl. E, 3), erected by Emir Beshtâk in 1330, but now entirely altered. At the next bifurcation we come to the *_Sebîl Abd er-Rahmân_ (p. 447), one of the finest structures of the kind. Upstairs the hall of an elementary school affords from its windows a capital view of the busy Nahhâsîn Street. Farther on the main street is called SHÂRIA EL-MARGUSH EL-BARRÂNI. Immediately to the right is the _Gâmia el-Ahmar_ (Pl. E, 2; ‘red mosque’), built in 1125 by the grand vizier of the Fatimite Amr ben Mustali. The fine façade, recently brought to light in part, with its high pointed niches in square framework alternating with smaller niches in two stories, shows the oldest stalactite vaulting in Cairo, and is therefore historically interesting. Near the end of the same thoroughfare, here called Shâria Bâb el-Futûh, we come to the entrance, on the right, of the ruinous _Gâmia el-Hâkim_ (Pl. E, 2), begun, outside the oldest town-wall, by El-Aziz (p. 447) in 990, on the model of the mosque of Ibn Tulûn (p. 451), and completed by his son El-Hâkim in 1012. The two minarets, with their heavy square setting, rise from the middle of the second town-wall (p. 446), which is here well preserved. Their superstructures, crowned with domes and resembling an Arabian censer (_mabkhâra_), belong to the period when the mosque was restored after the earthquake of 1302. The two ancient gate-towers, the _Bâb el-Futûh_ (Pl. E, 2; ‘gate of the conquests’) at the end of the street and the neighbouring _Bâb en Nasr_ (‘gate of victory’; reached by the Shâria el-Kassasineh), which was pierced with loopholes in the time of Bonaparte, recall the late-Roman and Byzantine gateway castles. The town-wall (adm. 2 pias.) affords an interesting survey of the whole group of buildings. We now return to the Gâmia el-Ashraf (p. 446) to complete our visit to the S. part of the old town of the Fatimites. At the beginning of the SHÂRIA EL-GHÛRÎYEH (Pl. E, 4), the continuation of the Shâria el-Ashrafîyeh (p. 446), rises the double monument of the Mameluke sultan Kânsûh el-Ghûri (1501–16), with its fine façades: on the right is the _Medreseh el-Ghûri_ (Pl. E, 3, 4), whose minaret, 213 ft. high, is incongruously crowned with five modern dwarfed domes; on the left is the _Mausoleum_, with its charming sebîl. The sultan, who fell in Syria, was not, however, buried here.—A few paces to the E., in the Shâria et-Tableta which leads to the Azhar mosque (p. 447), is the _Okella of El-Ghûri_ (Pl. E, 3, 4), now entirely disfigured. In line with the Shâria el-Ghurîyeh, farther to the S., is the SHÂRIA EL-AKKÂDÎN (Pl. E, 4). A little to the E. of it, in the side-street Hôsh Kadam (No. 12), is the so-called *BOOKBINDER’S HOUSE (_Beit Gamâl ed-Dîn_; Pl. E, 4), built in 1637 by the president of the merchants’ guild, an admirable example of an Arabian dwelling-house (fee 2 pias.). A crooked passage (_dirkeh_) leads into the court of the Salamlîk, the apartments of the owner, with two well-preserved façades. In the S.W. angle are stairs ascending to the Makad or reception-room, an open colonnade with two arches. Adjoining it is an oriel-window closed with mashrebîyehs (p. 445), from which the women could overlook the court. Farther on we come to the handsome Kâa, the banqueting-room of the harem, adorned with superb mosaics. In the centre of it is a lower chamber (_durkâa_) roofed with a wooden dome. The flat timber ceilings of the two _lîwâns_, or lateral rooms, are very fine. Still farther to the S., in the same line, runs the SUKKARÎYEH (Pl. E, 4), the market for sugar, dried fruit (_nukl_), fish, candles, etc.—On the right rises the— *=Gâmia el-Muaiyad= (Pl. D, E, 4), begun by the Mameluke sultan Sheikh el-Mahmûdi Muaiyad (1412–21), and completed a year after his death. In plan it resembles the convent-mosque of Barkûk (p. 458). The sumptuous portal, with its striped marble enrichment and stalactite or honeycomb half-domes, is well preserved. The *Bronze Gate, the finest in Cairo, was brought from the mosque of Hasan (p. 452). The main court and the lateral lîwâns, with their heavy modern outer walls, now form shady grounds. The sanctuary, restored in 1880, is a splendid hall of three arcades with lofty stilted arches. The decoration of the back-wall and the coloured wooden ceiling are charming. To the left of the sanctuary is the mausoleum of the sultan, and to the right that of his family. The two minarets, 167 ft. high, rise from the platform of the _Bâb Zuweileh_ (Pl. E, 4; p. 446), or _Bâb el-Mitwelli_, the S. gate of the Fatimite city. From the Bâb Zuweileh the Shâria Taht er-Rebâa leads to the W. to the Place Bâb el-Khalk (Pl. D, 4; see below); to the S. run the Kasabet Radowân, a _Shoemakers’ Market_, where the favourite red slippers (p. 97) are sold, and the Shâria el-Khiyamîyeh, the bazaar for gaily coloured _Tent-Covers_, leading to the Shâria Mohammed Ali (see below). To the E. of the Bâb Zuweileh runs a line of streets, bending round to the S., to the _Citadel_ (p. 453). Nearly opposite the gate, at the corner of Kasabet Radowân and Derb el-Ahmar, is the small _Mosque of Sâlih Telâyeh_ (Pl. E, 4), dating from the reign of El-Âdid, the last of the Fatimites (1160). The sanctuary contains some beautiful stucco ornamentation in the Syrian-Arabian style.—In the Derb el-Ahmar, farther on, to the left, rises the small *=Mosque of Emir Kijmâs= (Pl. E, 4), built in 1481 by a master-of-the-horse of Kâït Bey (p. 458). The interior is a perfect gem of its kind. Farther on this line of streets is called Shâria et-Tabbâneh. On the right rises the *=Mosque el-Merdani= (Pl. E, 5), one of the largest in Cairo. It was built by the cup-bearer of sultan Mohammed en-Nâsir (p. 448) in 1338–40 and after having almost fallen to ruin was recently restored. The sanctuary is still separated from the court by its old _maksûra_, or wooden screen. The prayer-recess and its sides are lavishly enriched with costly mosaics. The dome in front of the prayer-niche, partly restored with cement, rests on ancient Egyptian granite columns. b. The South-Eastern Quarters. Starting from the Place Atabet el-Khadra (p. 446) the featureless SHÂRIA MOHAMMED ALI (Pl. C-E, 3–6), 1860 yds. long, leads to the Citadel (tramway No. 6, p. 440). After 8 min. it crosses the former town-conduit _El-Khalîg_ (p. 446). On the left is the PLACE BÂB EL-KHALK, with the _Gouvernorat_ (government-house; Pl. D, 4; containing the _Police Office_, p. 442), and the superb new buildings of the _Arab Museum_ and the _Khedivial Library_ (1902). The *=Arab Museum=, founded by _Franz Pasha_, a learned German architect, on the groundfloor of the building, contains a large and valuable collection of objects of art, mostly from old mosques and houses in Cairo. Adm., see p. 442; entrance on the E. side. Director, M. Herz Bey. In the Vestibule is shown a chronological list of the Mohammedan dynasties of Egypt.—Room I. Tombstones.—Room II. Sculptures in stone.—Room III. Stone sculptures, casts, mosaics. Rooms IV-VIII. Wood-carving, including pulpits (mimbar), reading-desks for the Koran and tables (kursi), movable prayer-niches and Koran-boxes from mosques, mashrebîyehs (p. 445). Rooms IX & X. Metal-work. Fine bronze doors from the mosque of Sâlih Telâyeh (p. 450) and elsewhere; a Koran-case with brass cover and silver enrichment, candlesticks, lustres in metal, bronze candelabra (tannûr).—Rooms XI & XII. Fayence, including tiles of European make, a favourite wall-decoration in Arabian houses of the 18–19th centuries. Room XIII. Wall-incrustations in stucco; Arabian room from Rosetta.—Room XIV. Specimens of textiles; two Koran-cases covered with leather from the Hasan mosque (p. 452).—Rooms XV & XVI. Enamelled *Mosque Lamps, the richest collection of the kind, mostly from the Hasan mosque. The first floor of the building contains the =Khedivial Library= (_Kutubkhâneh_, entered from the Shâria Mohammed Ali), founded in 1870 and arranged by German savants. It consists of 68,000 vols. (about 32,000 being Oriental), including 2700 Korans. The illuminated Persian MSS. are extremely valuable. The Exhibition Room (adm., see p. 442) contains also a fine collection of the coins of the Moslem rulers of Egypt. We now follow, to the S.W., the long SHÂRIA KHALÎG EL-MASRI (Pl. D, C, 4–6; tramways Nos. 2 & 9, p. 440) to a small square with the _Gâmia es-Seiyideh Zeinab_ (Pl. C, 6, 7), and then turn to the S.E. into the SHÂRIA EL-MARÂSÎN (Pl. C, 7), near the end of which the Derb Tanaïfa leads to the right to the— *=Medreseh Kâït Bey= (Pl. C, 7), in the _Kalat el-Kabsh_ quarter of the city. Built in 1475, shortly after the sultan’s burial-mosque (p. 458), and recently restored by Herz Bey, it offers a good example of the architecture of the second Mameluke dynasty (see p. 445). The minaret is one of the most tasteful in Cairo. In the richly decorated interior we specially note the fine ornaments on the arches of the court-façades, the stalactites of the window-niches, the mosaic pavement, and the pulpit. The dome is modern. The Shâria er-Rahaba and the winding Shâria Kalat el-Kabsh lead to the E. in a few minutes to the picturesque Shâria ez-Ziyadeh (Pl. D, 7), on the S.W. side of the— *=Gâmia Ibn Tulûn= (Pl. D, 7), the oldest in Cairo next to the Amru mosque (p. 460). It stands near the N. border of what was once the Katâi quarter, on the rocky _Gebel Yeshkûr_ (33 ft.). It was erected by Ahmed ibn Tulûn (p. 443) on Mesopotamian models in 876–9, immediately after the last extension of the Kairwan mosque (p. 374), and was the largest of that period in all the lands of Islam. The total area of its precincts is 30,720 sq. yds., while the mosque itself, without the courts, forms a huge square of 150 by 132 yds. The external façades, which are almost undecorated, are relieved by pointed windows and niches and with shell-shaped half-domes and are crowned with pinnacles. We first pass through the E. forecourt to the sanctuary. The chief quadrangle, about 99 yds. square, is enclosed by double arcades on three sides, while the sanctuary has four arcades (originally five, the fifth having collapsed in 1875). The façades of the court are relieved by pointed windows and rosettes in the spandrels above the brick pillars; still higher runs a frieze of rosettes, and the whole is crowned with pinnacles. In the interior the ornamentation framing the arcades and the foliage frieze on the wall-spaces are carved in stucco, exhibiting as yet none of the intricate forms of the Byzantine-Arabian style. The old prayer-recess with its fine Byzantine capitals and fragments of Byzantine glass-mosaics is noteworthy. The dikkeh (p. 448) also dates from the earliest period. Above the dikkeh are remains of the original timber ceiling. A prayer-recess in the fourth series of arcades dates from 1094. The pulpit, now bereft of its sumptuous incrustation, the wooden dome in front of the mihrâb, the plaster windows in the mihrâb wall, and also the dome in the court are all additions by the Mameluke sultan Melek el-Mansûr Lagîn (1296–1308). The peculiar minaret in the great quadrangle, of which the square basement only was originally built of stone, offers a splendid *VIEW of the vast city. We look down the Nile, to the N., to the Delta, and to the W. and S.W. we see the Pyramids. The small _Medreseh Serghatmash_ (Pl. D, 7) in Shâria el-Khedeiri, on the N. side of Ibn Tulûn’s mosque, built by a mameluke of sultan Hasan in the style of Hasan’s mosque (see below) in 1357, is interesting on account of its original unaltered dome. We now turn to the E., past the effective marble _Sebîl of the Mother of Abbâs I._ (1849–54), and through the Shâria es-Salîbeh (Pl. D, 6) and the Shâria Shekhûn (Pl. D, E, 6), to the PLACE RUMEILEH (Pl. E, 6; tramway No. 6, p. 440), the starting-place of the Mecca caravans. To the N. of this square, and at the end of the Shâria Mohammed Ali (p. 450), rise the modern _Gâmia Rifaîyeh_ (Pl. E, 6), of the reign of the khedive Ismaîl (p. 444), and the famous— **=Gâmia Sultân Hasan= (Pl. E, 6), the grandest medreseh in Egypt, erected for the Mameluke Hasan en-Nâsir (1347–61) probably by a Syrian architect. It rises on a shelving rock opposite the Citadel (p. 453). The cruciform medreseh has been skilfully adapted to the precincts, an irregular pentagon, about 9470 sq. yds. in area. The chief *Portal, 85 ft. high, whose side-pillars were originally to have borne two minarets, recall the Seljuk buildings of Konia. The façades terminate in a projecting stalactite cornice, crowned with modern pinnacles, and the walls are relieved by blind niches with round-arched windows in pairs. Over the detached mausoleum, which projects from the S.E. façade, rises a dome 181 ft. high, restored in 1616 in the Arabian-Turkish style, but said to have been originally egg-shaped. The minaret of 267 ft., at the S. angle of the medreseh, is the loftiest in Cairo, and after that of the Kutubia at Marakesh the highest in N. Africa. INTERIOR (undergoing restoration). The old court of ablutions on the N.W. side of the building is again in use. The chief portal of the medreseh leads into a vestibule with a stalactite dome. We then pass through a second vestibule and a corridor to the main quadrangle, 38½ by 35 yds., containing the ruinous _meidâ_, or basin for ablutions, and a Turkish fountain (_hanefîyeh_), both disused. The four lîwâns, with their massive barrel-vaulting, are entered from the court by lofty marble portals, and are in this exceptional case all used as halls of prayer. The four small medresehs in the angles of the outer precincts, each with its court and lîwân, served as lecture-rooms and dwellings. The sanctuary, 76 ft. in height, is adorned with a *Frieze bearing an inscription in Cufic (or old Arabic) characters, carved in stucco on a beautiful groundwork of arabesques. The wall of the mihrâb is richly decorated with marble. Of the once sumptuous furnishings the mimbar (pulpit), the dikkeh (reading-stand), and the wire-chains of the countless lamps (see p. 451) and candelabra are now the sole relics. To the right of the pulpit a bronze door, inlaid with gold and silver, leads into the sultan’s *Mausoleum, a domed chamber of 23 yds. square, 92 ft. in height. The only remains of the original dome are the wooden spandrels of the stalactites. The inscriptions on the wooden frieze are in the round characters (naskhi) used since the time of Saladin. The =Citadel= (Pl. E, F, 6; ‘El-Kala’), commanding the city but itself overtopped by the Mokattam hills (p. 454), was built by Saladin after 1166, in connection with the third town-wall (p. 444), on the model of the Crusaders’ castles in Syria. The only remains of that building are the E. outer wall and several towers in the interior. The palaces of the Aiyubides (1171–1250), already half in ruins when Selim I. entered the city (1517), have entirely disappeared. The first restoration of the fortress dates from the reign of El-Ghûri (1501–16). The direct way to the Citadel from the Place Rumeileh is by a street beyond the huge gate-tower _Bâb el-Azab_ (Pl. E, 6), where the Mameluke leaders were shot by order of Mohammed Ali (p. 444) in 1811. The chief approaches, ascending from the broad Shâria el-Maghar (Pl. E, 6), are the Shâria Bâb el-Gedîd and the Shâria ed-Defterkhâneh. The latter, for foot-passengers only, passes the S. side of the _Defterkhâneh_ (Pl. F, 6; state-archives). The _Bâb el-Gedid_ (Pl. F, 6; ‘new gate’) leads into the outer court of the Citadel. We then pass through the _Bâb el-Wastâni_ (‘middle gate’) into the main court, where the ‘alabaster mosque’ faces us and the mosque of Nâsir rises on the left. The =Gâmia en-Nâsir= (Pl. F, 6), built by En-Nâsir (p. 448) in 1317, later used as a military storehouse and a prison, has now been cleared out, but may be seen by leave of the British military authorities. The fortress-like façade, and the portals in particular, show traces of Romanesque influence. The peculiar minarets, with their bulbous domes, are adorned with coloured fayence in the Persian style. The finest columns in the court are Byzantine; others are antique. The sadly disfigured lîwâns still retain their old coloured fretwork ceiling. The dome in front of the prayer-niche, which has collapsed with the exception of its drum, rests on ancient Egyptian granite columns, as in the mosque of Merdani (p. 450). The =Gâmia Mohammed Ali= (Pl. E, F, 6), known as the ‘alabaster mosque’ from the building-material chiefly used, was begun by Mohammed Ali in 1824 but completed only in 1857 by his successor Saîd. The architect was the Greek _Yûsuf Boshna_ of Constantinople, who built it on the model of the Nuri Osmanieh mosque (p. 550) with a staff of Greek workmen. The tall and unduly slender minarets form one of the chief landmarks of Cairo. The forecourt, with its hanefîyeh (fountain with taps), is flanked with arcades. The *Sanctuary, a domed Byzantine hall, borne by four square pillars, is grandly proportioned and beautifully lighted. To the left of the entrance is Mohammed Ali’s tomb (d. 1849). From the S.W. wall of the Citadel, opposite the _Viceregal Palace_, we enjoy, especially towards evening, a magnificent *View of the city with its countless minarets and domes. To the N. and W. are the windmill-hills and the green plains watered by the Nile. To the W. rise the Pyramids of Gîzeh. The view is far grander from the **=Mokattam Hills=, or _Gebel Giyûshi_, a fine standpoint being the conspicuous _Gâmia Giyûshi_, a Fatimite mosque (1085), reached in ½ hr. from the Bâb el-Gebel (Pl. F, 6), the ‘hill-gate’ of the citadel. A side-path to the right leads to the _Convent of the Bektashi_ (Turkish dervishes), picturesquely situated on the bare hill-side. From the _Bâb el-Attaba_ (Bâb el-Atabeg; Pl. F, 5), the N. gate of the Citadel, we proceed past the cemetery _Karâfet Bâb el-Wezîr_ (Pl. F, 5) to the Mameluke tombs (comp. p. 458). c. The New Town. To the W. of the Ezbekîyeh Garden and the Place de l’Opéra (p. 446), to the W. also of the fashionable Shâria Kâmel (Pl B, C, 2, 3) and of the Shâria Abdîn (Pl. C, 3, 4), lie the new =Ismaîlîyeh= and =Tewfîkîyeh= quarters, extending to the Nile and the _Ismaîlîyeh Canal_, the latter quarter, named after Tewfik (p. 444), being the most recent. They contain several of the large hotels, most of the ministerial and consular offices, the chief banks, and many palaces of wealthy European, Levantine, and Egyptian magnates. Ismaîlîyeh and Tewfîkîyeh are separated by the broad and busy SHÂRIA BÛLÂK (Pl. B, A, 3; tramway No. 6, p. 440), which leads from the Ezbekîyeh Garden to the Abu’l-Eileh Bridge (Pl. A, 3) and _Bûlâk_. From October to December the banks of the Nile present a very busy scene, the state of the river being then most favourable for the goods-traffic from Upper Egypt, Nubia, and the fertile Delta.—Steam-ferry to _Gezîreh_ (p. 457; bridge now being built). The direct way to the Nile is by the SHÂRIA KASR EN-NÎL (Pl. C-A, 3, 4), diverging from the Shâria Abdîn to the S. of the Place de l’Opéra. It crosses the round Mîdân Suleimân Bâsha and ends at the Mîdân Mariette Bâsha (Pl. A, 4), near the _Egyptian Museum_. A little to the S. is the MÎDÂN ISMAÎLÎYEH (Pl. A, 4, 5; tramway No. 4, p. 440). On the S. side of it runs the Shâria el-Kubri, to the W., to the Great Nile Bridge (p. 457), while from it to the S. stretches the long Shâria Kasr el-Aïni (Pl. A, 5, 6). In the latter street, immediately to the left, is the free =Egyptian University= (Pl. A, 5), founded in 1908, the purpose of which, in contrast to the old Gâmia el-Azhar (p. 447), is to offer Mohammedans a liberal modern education. Farther on, to the left, opposite the handsome houses built on the site of the palace _Kasr ed-Dubara_, are the _Ministries of Public Works and War_ (Pl. A, B, 5) and the building of the _Sudan Agency_; on the N. side of the grounds is the _Geological Museum_.—Still farther to the S. the street is prolonged by the Shâria Fum el-Khalîg (Pl. A, 7), leading past the native (Government) hospital _Kasr el-Aïni_ (Pl. A, 7) and close to the narrow _E. Arm of the Nile_ (Bahr el-Khalîg), opposite the island of Rôda (p. 461), to _Old Cairo_ (comp. p. 460). * * * * * The **=Egyptian Museum= (Pl. A, 4; _El-Antikkhâneh_) is now housed in a new building (1897–1902) in the Shâria Mariette Bâsha, near the Great Nile Bridge. The collection, the greatest of its kind, founded in 1857 by the French Egyptologist Aug. Mariette (1821–81), consists of Egyptian and Græco-Roman antiquities found in the Nile Valley. Adm., see p. 442. Director, M. G. Maspero. The two long colonnades adjoining the vestibule, are destined for casts. They terminate in two pavilions, containing, on the left, the Library and, on the right, the office for the sale of duplicates, photographs, and scientific publications. The GROUND FLOOR contains the large stone monuments, including the sarcophagi in the Grande Galerie d’Honneur, beyond the vestibule. From the W. (left) wing of the Grande Galerie we first enter, to the right, Rooms A-D, containing memorials of the Old Empire (3rd–6th Dynasties; about B.C. 2900–2350). Noteworthy among the master-works in Room B are: *74. Wooden statue of a man, known as the Sheikh el-Beled (village magistrate); 73. Statue in diorite of king Khephren (p. 463); 78. Figure of an official, writing. Case B: *114. Nofer, the brewer; 115. Wooden figure of a man in a cloak.—Room D: *163. Statues in limestone of prince Ra-hotep and his wife Nofret; 167. Statue of king Phiops I., in embossed copper, with eyes of enamel; 164, 165. Statues in limestone of the priest Ra-nofer. Rooms E-H contain objects dating from the Middle Empire (12–14th Dynasties; about B.C. 2000–1680) and the era of the Hyksos (Syrian conquerors; 15th and 16th Dynasties; about 1680–1580). In Room F: 194 (in the middle). Wooden statue of the tutelary genius (Ka) of king Hor; 199. Limestone statue of king Amenemhêt III.—Room G: 206 (in the middle). Sacrificial chamber of Harhotep, with drawings of the furniture of the deceased; 207. Ten colossal statues of Sesostris I. in limestone.—Room H: 260. Tombstone of Prince Mentuhotep. Rooms I-P and the large Atrium Central, or covered court, are set apart for monuments of the New Empire (17–20th Dynasties; about B.C. 1580–1090). Room I: 300 (on the right). Triumphal monument of Thutmosis III. (1501–1447); 338, 339. The goddess Hathor, as a cow, in the ancient chapel (naos); *291. Head of king Haremheb (?), in black granite; 312. Bust of the goddess Mut (?); 327. Statue of the aged Amenhotep; *334. Statue of Thutmosis II., in slate; 341. Statue of Isis, mother of Thutmosis III.—Room J: 316. Statue of the god Khons.—Room L (beyond the N. gallery): 364. Sacred barge in red granite.—Portique du Nord (beyond the covered court): 398. Memorial stones of kings Amenophis III. (‘Memnon’; 1411–1375) and Merenptab (p. 457).—Room M: 378. The famous tablet of Sakkâra (p. 464), with its list of kings; 390. Statue of the god Ptah.—Rooms N and O: Chiefly objects of the Ramesside period (19–20th Dynasties). Room N: 616. Granite head of Ramses II. (about 1292–1225), best known of all the Egyptian kings for his immense building enterprise. Rooms Q-S: Foreign (B.C. 1090–663) and Late Egyptian (663–332) Dynasties. Room Q: 1016. Statue of the goddess Toëris in the form of a hippopotamus, an admirable work in green stone (26th Dynasty; 663–525); 667. ‘Pithom Stele’ or memorial stone of Ptolemy Philadelphus, from Pithom.—Room S: Ethiopian period (25th Dynasty; 712–663); 685. Alabaster statue of queen Amenertaïs. Rooms T, V, and X: Ptolemaic (B.C. 332–47; comp. p. 433), Roman (B.C. 47–395 A.D.), and Coptic monuments. Room T: 719. Marble bust of a Gaul, a Greek original from Thasos; 728. The famous trilingual Decree of Canopus (B.C. 238), in sacred (hieroglyphic), popular (demotic), and Greek characters.—Room V: Coptic objects.—Room X (Case A): 688. Bust of prince Mentemhēt, and 689. Bust of king Taharka (688–663; the Tirhakah of the Bible), both with negro features. The UPPER FLOOR contains the smaller antiquities, the objects found in the royal tombs of Thebes in Upper Egypt, and the mummies. We begin with the Great Gallery, where the coffins and mummies of priests of Ammon are exhibited. In the Salon Méridional, adjoining the central court, and (to the right) in Rooms A and B, are vessels, implements, toilet requisites, musical instruments, lamps, candlesticks, candelabra etc.; in Case G of the South Hall is the *Wooden war-chariot of Thutmosis IV. (1420–1411), with beautiful reliefs. Also in Room A (later to be reserved solely for Coptic objects), Coptic utensils.—Rooms C-F: Burial equipments, including figures of the dead, amulets, jars for the entrails of the deceased (so-called Canopi). Rooms G-I: MSS. on papyrus or linen; wooden tablets, potsherds (ostraca), and slabs of limestone, used as cheap substitutes for papyrus.—Rooms J-L: Furniture and utensils. Rooms M, N, and Gallery O (to the N.): Chiefly Greek and Roman antiquities and foreign objects. In glass-cases C and D of Room N are (Nos. 433, 434) the famous clay tablets from Tell el-Amarna in Central Egypt, with cuneiform inscriptions, being letters from Babylonian kings and the Hittite kings of Arsapi to Amenophis III. (see above). The Salon Septentrionale, adjoining Gallery O, contains statues of gods and requisites for their cult. Case B: 886. Hair-pin in the form of a papyrus stem (Middle Empire); 888. Small bowl in the form of a dog holding a fish in its mouth; without number, Head of a woman with a wig; *891. Funerary statuette of the vizier Ptahmosē.—We now cross Gallery O to— Room P, with its rich collection of *Trinkets, illustrating the development of the Egyptian goldsmiths’ art from the earliest age down to the Byzantine period (A.D. 395–640). Case IV, B, in a recess on the right, contains jewellery found at Abydos in Upper Egypt (bracelets from the tomb of king Zer, 1st Dyn.), dating from the earliest period, and already showing a high degree of skill. To the Middle Empire belong the *Tomb Treasures of Dahshûr (p. 464; trinkets of princess Khnumet, etc.), in the centre of the room, showing the Egyptian goldsmiths’ art in its highest perfection. Admirably executed are also the *Trinkets of queen Ahhotep, mother of king Amosis, the Hyksos conqueror (1580 B.C.; p. 455), of the New Empire (niche on the right, case IV, G-M.). The 20th and 21st Dynasties also are represented by treasures from Bubastis (p. 439; Case XII). The extensive collection of Græco-Roman and Byzantine jewellery, partly pure Greek in style, partly of ancient Egyptian pattern, also merit notice. To the former class belongs notably, in a niche to the left (stands VII, X), the *Treasure of Tukh el-Karâmûs, of the early Ptolemaic era (about 300 B.C.). Gallery Q (continuation of Gallery O) and Rooms R-U contain *Mummies of the kings of the New Empire, from the ravine Deir el-Bahri near Thebes. In Gallery Q: 1187. Mummy of Merenptah, son and successor of Ramses II.; 1251. Gilded coffin-lid of queen Ahhotep (see above).—Room S: Furnishings from the tombs of Thutmosis III. (p. 456) and Amenophis II, (B.C. 1447–1420); wooden figures, boxes, shrouds, wigs, etc.—Room T: *Coffins and furnishings from the tomb of the parents-in-law of Amenophis III. (p. 456). Rooms V-Z, Gallery A′, and the last Rooms B′–D′ contain requisites for the cult of the dead. Room V: Scarabæi (beetle-stones), used as amulets and as seals.—Room Y: Objects found in tombs of the Middle and New Empires; in cases D and E, 1337, 1338. Forty Egyptian soldiers and forty negro soldiers, carved in wood.—Room C′: 115–117. Coffins and mummy of Oment, priestess of Hathor and lady of the royal harem (11th Dyn.), with tattooed body.—Room D′: Relics of the earliest period, mostly from the royal tombs at Abydos (see p. 456). The =Great Nile Bridge= (Pl. A, 5; Arabic _Kubri Kasr en-Nîl_), 427 yds. long, at the end of Shâria el-Kubri (p. 455), connects the new town with Gezîreh. It is usually opened from about 1.30 to 3 p.m. for the passage of vessels (see notices). The island _Gezîret Bûlâk_, or simply =Gezîreh= (‘island’), is the favourite residence of the fashionable world. The *_Park_ (café near the bridge) at the S. end is much frequented, especially in the afternoon, and is skirted by a pleasant drive shaded by lebbakh-trees. Passing the _Race Course_ and the grounds of the Khedivial Sporting Club, we reach the N. part of the island with its handsome villas, the _Ghezîreh Palace Hotel_ (p. 440; built by Franz Pasha in 1863–4 as a viceregal palace), and the interesting _Aquarium_ (8.30 to 5 o’cl., 2 pias.; Frid. 5 pias.).—Steam-ferry to _Bûlâk_ (p. 454). From Gezîreh a road crosses the sometimes dry W. arm of the Nile, above the so-called English Bridge, and leads to the S. to the village of Gîzeh (tramways Nos. 3 & 5, see p. 440). On the right, beyond the _Gîza Garden_, is the _Polytechnic School_. Farther on, opposite Rôda (p. 461), is the— *=Zoological Garden= (adm. ½ pias.; on Sun. afternoon, when a band plays, 5 pias.), containing many Egyptian and Sudanese animals and an aquarium. The grounds, 50 acres in area, with their superb royal palms (Oreodoxa regia) and pond for aquatic flowers, are in themselves worth seeing. _Gîzeh_ and the _Pyramids_, see pp. 461–463. d. Environs. =1.= The *=Mameluke Tombs=, to the E. of the old town, erroneously called the _Tombs of the Caliphs_ (comp. F, 3, 4), date mostly from the second Mameluke dynasty (pp. 444, 445). They are most easily reached, on donkey-back (p. 441), from the Bâb en-Nasr (Pl. E, 2; p. 449). Passing a large _Moslem Cemetery_ (Pl. E, F, 2) we come first to the N.E. group of the tombs, all much ruined. These are the _Tomb Mosque of Emîr el-Kebîr_, son of Bars Bey (p. 446), the *_Monastery Mosque of Sultan Melek el-Ashraf Inâl_ (1453–68), an irregular quadrangle of 115 by 51 yds., with a fine minaret and dome, and the cubical _Tomb of an Emir of El-Ghûri_ (p. 449). We now turn to the S. to visit the *_Monastery Mosque of Sultan Barkûk_ (p. 448), partly restored of late. It forms a square of 80 yds. each way. The two handsome minarets have been deprived of their bulb-like summits. In front of the mihrâb is a small dome. Of the two mausoleums that on the N. was built in 1400–5 by Barkûk’s sons Farag and Azîz; that on the S., together with the monastery (Khânkâ), was completed by Farag in 1410. The old chief portal, with its stalactite niche, is on the N. side. To the right of it is a sebîl with an elegant kuttâb (p. 445). On the left are the ruins of the three-storied monastery and a dilapidated hall connecting the monastery with the tomb of Barkûk’s father, Sharaf ed-Dîn Anas (d. 1382). From the present entrance in the outbuilding at the S.W. angle we pass through a vestibule and a corridor to the quadrangle (sahn) with its fountain (hanefîyeh). The lîwâns, borne by pillars, are roofed with flat domes, some of which have fallen in. The beautifully proportioned sanctuary, with nave and two aisles, contains three plain prayer-recesses and a stone *Pulpit presented by Kâït Bey (1483; see below). Large double portals lead to the left to the mausoleum of Barkûk and his sons, and to the right to the tombs of the ladies of the family. Within a walled court a little to the W. are the _Tombs of Emirs Suleimân ibn Selîm_ (d. 1526) and _Ahmed_. The dome of the former is richly adorned with trellis-work set in lozenge-shaped meshes, and shows remains of the inscribed frieze of blue fayence. A few minutes’ walk to the S.W., past the large flattened dome of the Turkish _Mabed er-Rifaîyeh_, brings us to the _Hôsh of Kâït Bey_ (1468–96), once 330 yds. long, the largest family burial-place at Cairo, now occupied by a whole village. A dilapidated dwelling-house (rab), 86 yds. long, and trough, and the tomb-mosque still exist. The *_Tomb Mosque of Kâït Bey_, the finest of all the Mameluke tombs, at once strikes the eye with its wall decoration in coloured stripes, the delicate network of the dome of the mausoleum, and the graceful minaret, 131 ft. high. Between the minaret and the railed-in sebîl is the chief portal with its trefoil arch, leading into a vestibule containing the throne of the sultan. The adjoining sanctuary, with its pavement in coloured mosaic, its two inscription-friezes, its kamarîyehs, and stained-glass windows, has been almost entirely renewed. The mimbar or pulpit also is modern. The lîwân opposite still has its fine old timber ceiling. The mausoleum, on the S.W. side of the sanctuary, also shows great wealth of colouring. A colonnade adjacent contains the tombs of the sultan’s four wives. [Illustration: CAIRO] [Illustration: MAP OF THE ENVIRONS OF CAIRO as far as the Barrage on the North & Dahshûr on the South] We now follow the Shâria es-Sultân Ahmed and (to the right) Shâria Karâfet el-Mamalik, cross the so-called _Windmill Hill_ (Pl. F, 3), the central great mound of débris on the E. side of the old town, and thus regain the Fatimite city (Shâria esh-Sharawâni, p. 446). On the way, from the ‘Point de Vue’ marked on the Plan, we have a fine *View of the city of tombs and the Mokattam Hills behind us. The Shâria Karâfet Bâb el-Wezîr, the S. prolongation of Shâria es-Sultân Ahmed, leads to the _Citadel_ (comp. p. 453). =2.= EXCURSION TO THE HELIOPOLIS OASIS AND HELIOPOLIS-ON. The new _Heliopolis Oasis_ is most quickly (10 min.) reached from Cairo by the Metropolitan Railway (p. 441), or by railway and electric tramway viâ _Palais de Koubbeh_ (20–30 min.; comp. below); tramway No. 10 in ca. 50 min., see p. 440; cab, see p. 441. The =Heliopolis Oasis= or _New Heliopolis_ (hotels, see p. 440), called by the Arabs _Masr el-Gedida_, _i. e._ ‘New Cairo’, is a new ‘suburb’, founded in 1906 by a Belgian company, about 5 M. to the N.E. of Cairo. On this healthy site an entirely modern town, consisting of villas and buildings mostly in the Moorish style, is being laid out on an ambitious scale. Broad avenues planted with trees and streets pleasantly interspersed with spacious squares intersect the town, while recreation grounds of every description and a race course provide for the residents’ entertainment.—Heliopolis Oasis is connected with Cairo by a beautiful _Avenue_ (cab, see p. 441), the favourite promenade of the inhabitants and visitors in Cairo, which, close to the Oasis, passes the not yet completed _British Barracks_. The visit to HELIOPOLIS-ON may be combined with the route just described by way of rail. station _Palais de Koubbeh_ (tramway, see below). If, however, we make our visit from Cairo direct we go by railway from the Pont Limûn Station (p. 439; trains every ½ hr., in 21 min.; also several fast trains in ¼ hr.; return-fare 4½ or 3 pias.). The train crosses the _Ismaîlîyeh Canal_ (p. 438). 2 M. _Demîrdash_, or _Demerdache_, station for the villa-suburb of _Abbâsîyeh_. 4¼ M. _Palais de Koubbeh_, with the Khedivial Palace; from the station an electric tramway, in connection with the trains, runs to the S.E. to (1 M.) the _Heliopolis Oasis_ (see above). 5 M. _Ezbet ez-Zeitûn_, a group of villas; 6¼ M. _Matarîyeh_. At the village of _Matarîyeh_ (hotel), in a garden to the right of the road, is the _Virgin’s Tree_, a sycamore marking the spot where the Holy Family is said to have resided during their exile in Egypt. A little to the E. of the station is an _Ostrich Farm_ (adm. 10 pias.), with a belvedere. From the Virgin’s Garden the Shâria el-Misalleh (obelisk street) leads to the N. to the site of =Heliopolis-On=, one of tho most ancient places in Egypt, famous for the cult of the falcon-headed sun-god Rē-Harakhtē. The _Obelisk_ of red granite is the oldest in the land. Scanty fragments of the temple and of the town-wall are the only other ruins. 3. We may next visit =Old Cairo= (tramway No. 4, p. 440). The route is by the SHÂRIA MASR EL-KADÎMEH, the continuation of Shâria Fum el-Khalîg (Pl. A, 7; p. 455). On the left, at its beginning, is a hexagonal _Water Tower_, which once supplied an _Aqueduct_ (El-Kanâtir) built by El-Ghûri (p. 449), extending to Bâb el-Karâfeh (Pl. E, 7), and still traceable in its ruins, 66 ft. high. About ¼ M. beyond the new Abbâs Bridge (p. 461) the Shâria Gâmia Amr, on the left, leads to the picturesque old Coptic convent _Deir Abû Sefein_ and the Amru Mosque (see below). From the tramway-terminus in the poor little town of _Old Cairo_ (Masr el-Kadîmeh, p. 443) we follow the street to the Gîzeh steam-ferry (p. 461), turn to the left past the police-station, and in the Shâria es-Saghîr to the left again. This brings us to _St. Georges_, a station on the Helwân railway (see p. 439). On the E. side of the railway is the site of— =Babylon= (p. 443), a Roman castle, of which the only remains are parts of the outer walls and a _Gateway_, on the S.W. side, with two projecting towers. Within the precincts of the ancient fortress now lies _Kasr esh-Shama_, a village inhabited chiefly by Copts, with a synagogue, five mediæval Coptic churches (_El-Moallaka_, _Abu Sergeh_, etc.), and the Greek _Convent of St. George_ (W. side). One of the entrances is between the convent and an old tower. From the N.E. angle of the fortress, skirting the rubbish-mounds of _Fostât_ (p. 443), we reach (10 min.) the Amru Mosque, surrounded by cemeteries and potteries, where the porous kullehs are made, and conspicuous by its red and white striped façade. The =Gâmia Amr ibn el-Âsî=, commonly called the _Amru Mosque_ by Europeans, is named after the general of caliph Omar (p. 443). It was originally a small edifice built in 642, probably of crude bricks, but it was repeatedly rebuilt or restored, as in 698 and 827, and notably by Saladin in 1172, after the invasion of king Amalarich of Jerusalem and the burning of Fostât in 1168. Other restorations took place in the three following centuries. The two minarets are modern. The INTERIOR, a slightly irregular rectangle, 132 by 108 yds., though sadly ruinous, is of impressive dimensions. The six-aisled sanctuary contains 21 series of arcades (with pointed arches) running towards the kibla (prayer niche facing Mecca). The three outer rows of columns on each side are continued by those of the N.E. and the S.W. lîwâns, of which, however, the bases alone remain. The lîwân on the side of the quadrangle next the entrance has a single arcade only. The Roman and Byzantine columns from Memphis (p. 464), once 366 in number it is said, have been utilized without regard to symmetry or congruity. In the centre of the court, now planted with trees, is a hanefîyeh (18th cent.). In the N. angle of the sanctuary is an uninteresting monument over the supposed tomb of Sheikh Abdallah, son of Amr, erected by Abbâs I. (1849–54). On the almost intact S.W. wall of the sanctuary are curious wood-carvings, still purely Byzantine (9th cent.). =4.= The PYRAMIDS OF GÎZEH should be visited on a calm and clear day, as the sand-drift is most trying in windy weather. (Umbrella or dark-coloured spectacles advisable to protect the eyes from the glare.) The excursion takes at least 4 hrs., or, including Sakkâra, a whole day. Those who are pressed for time visit the Great Pyramid, the Sphinx, and the Granite Temple only. (Tramway No. 1, see p. 440; carr. in 1–1¼ hr., p. 441.) The tramway diverges at Old Cairo (p. 460), about 770 yds. to the S. of the Water Tower, to the right from line No. 4, and crosses a branch of the Nile to the island of =Rôda= (_Gezîret Rôda_), at the S. end of which is the old _Nilometer_ (Arabic Mikyâs), dating from the time of the Omaiyade caliph Suleimân (716), but often restored since. We next cross the main channel of the Nile by the _Pont Abbâs II._ (opened 10–11 a.m. and 3.30 to 4.30 p.m. for the passage of vessels) to the village of =Gîzeh= (Tues. market), at the N. end of which, about 550 yds. below the steam-ferry (p. 460), our tramway joins the branch from Gezîreh (p. 457). Leaving the Nile, and passing a station on the Upper Egyptian railway (p. 463), we still have a run of 5 M., nearly due W., to the Pyramids, the huge angular forms of which gradually become more distinct and soon stand out in clear outlines. The terminus of the tramway is near the large _Mena House Hotel_ (p. 440), on the N.E. border of the _Libyan Desert_. Adjacent is a Greek restaurant. The road then ascends in a curve to the (½ M.) plateau of the Pyramids. Near the tramway-terminus is a station for donkeys and camels (5 pias. per hour; see also pp. 173, 174).—The plateau is open to the public and may be quite well explored without a guide. TICKETS of admittance to the monuments themselves are sold at a stall next to the _Viceregal Kiosque_, at the N.E. corner of the Great Pyramid. Guides (Bedouins) also are obtained here on application to their sheikh (recognizable by the rosette on his breast). Ticket for the ascent of the Great Pyramid 10 pias. (for the interior, also 10 pias.); for the other monuments 5 pias.; for the entire expedition, including the ascent of the Great Pyramid and the visit to its interior, 20 pias.—Bakshîsh optional, but it is usual to give a few piastres. No attention should be paid to beggars or to vendors of ‘antiquities’. Unofficial guides who try to thrust themselves on visitors should be repelled, with the aid of the police if need be. The **=Pyramids of Gîzeh= form the second and most imposing of the six groups of pyramids extending along the border of the Libyan desert, in a line of about 19 M. in length. To the N.W. is the _Abu Roâsh_ group, towards the S.E. are the groups of _Zâwyet el-Aryân_, _Abusîr_ (p. 464), _Sakkâra_ (p. 464), and _Dahshûr_ (p. 464). The Arabs call them _ahrâm_ (sing, _háram_). The Pyramids of Gîzeh, creations of the 4th Dynasty (about B.C. 2850 to 2700), rank among the oldest monuments of human industry, and their colossal proportions extort from us to-day the same astonishment that was felt in antiquity by Greek and Roman travellers. We marvel both at the technical skill shown by the Egyptians in their construction, and at the might of the kings, who must have had the services of many thousands of their subjects at command. The pyramids are believed to have been built in layers. Each king at his accession began to erect his tomb-pyramid on a small scale. If wealthy or long-lived he enlarged the original design, and after his death the outer covering was added. The **=Great Pyramid=, erected by Kheops or Cheops, the Khufu of the Egyptians, was called by them _Yekhwet Khufu_ (the ‘glorious place of Khufu’). Herodotus (II, 125) states that 100,000 men were employed for three months every year in building it. The outer covering, with the exception of a few fragments on the base below the entrance, has disappeared. Each side is now 248 yds. in length (originally 255 yds.). The perpendicular height is 450 ft. (once, to the apex, 480 ft.). The sides rise at an angle of 51°50′. The solid content of the masonry, deducting the nucleus of rock and the chambers in the interior, was formerly about 3,302,500 (and is still about 3,081,100) cubic yards. This stupendous structure is composed of yellowish limestone blocks, quarried in the vicinity and containing numerous fossils, chiefly nummulites (a kind of snail-shell), while the incrustation consisted of blocks of a finer white limestone from the Mokattam quarries. The ASCENT of the Pyramid, though free from danger, is very toilsome. The visitor is helped up the steps, mostly 3 ft. high, by three Bedouins, two holding his hands and the third pushing behind. We may reach the top, a platform of 11 yds. square, in 10–15 min., but a more leisurely ascent is advisable. The *View of the yellow sands and bare rocks of the great desert-plateau, on which rise the Sphinx, the smaller pyramids of Gîzeh, and the more distant tombs stretching as far as Dahshûr, awakens solemn thoughts of death and eternity. At our feet stretches a tract of rich arable land, luxuriantly clothed with blue-green vegetation and entirely inundated in autumn. To the E., beyond the glittering river, rise the citadel of Cairo and the warmly-coloured Mokattam hills. The INTERIOR of the Pyramid will not interest ordinary travellers. The air in the passages, hall, and tomb-chamber is hot and stifling and makes the visit very disagreeable. From the E. side of the Great Pyramid, where a _Temple_ for the cult of the dead once stood, we walk past the _Three Small Pyramids_ of relatives of Kheops to the Sphinx, which rises from the sand of the desert some 350 yds. to the S.E. The **=Sphinx=, the most famous monument in this vast burial-ground, probably once a natural rock, has the form of a recumbent lion with the head of a king (Khephren?), wearing a head-cloth adorned with the royal serpent. In front of the breast is the image of a god, much weather-worn. The head also is sadly mutilated, the nose and beard have broken off, and the reddish tint which once enlivened the face has almost entirely disappeared. But in spite of all injuries the monument preserves a striking expression of strength and majesty. The eyes have a pensive, faraway look, the lips wear a half-smile, and the whole face is of graceful and beautiful type. The height of the monument, from the pavement on which the fore-legs of the lion rest to the crown of the head is about 66 ft.; its length, from the lion’s fore-paws to the root of the tail, is about 186 ft. On the top of the head is a cavity. Some 48 yds. to the S.E. of the Sphinx are the remains of the *=Granite Temple=, or _Sphinx Temple_, a large building of hewn stone. It was once the sacred entrance through which the Pyramid of Khephren (see below) was approached from the valley below. The edifice is a fine example of majestic simplicity, and the very hard stone has been treated with marvellous skill. The exterior of the temple is buried in rubbish. The two main halls are rectangular, and the beams of their ceilings rested on granite pillars. The CIRCUIT OF THE PYRAMID PLATEAU (1½–2 hrs.) is interesting. From the Great Pyramid we walk to the W. to the great =Burial Ground= of the relatives and officials of the royal family, as well as of the priests and officials of the temples of the dead. The square tombs (_mastabas_) are ranged in straight lines like streets, affording a good example of an Egyptian necropolis. On the way we pass the Tomb of _Shepses-kef-onekh_, dating from the 5th Dynasty (about 2700–2550 B.C.). Through a cleft in the rock, near the _Quarry_ which yielded the stone in the reign of Ramses II. for the temple of Heliopolis (p. 459), we descend to the artificially levelled plateau of the— =Second Pyramid=, Egyp. _Wer-Khefrē_ (‘great is Khefrē‘), built by Khephren (Khefrē). Standing on higher ground, it looks larger than the Pyramid of Kheops. Its perpendicular height is 447 (once 454) ft.; each side is 230 (formerly 235) yds. in length; its sides rise at an angle of 52°20′. The masonry has a solid content of 2,173,552 (once 2,445,377) cub. yds. The foundations of the _Temple of the Dead_, on the E. side of the pyramid, were excavated in 1908. On the W. side of the pyramid we observe an _Inscription_ and several _Rock Tombs_. Adjacent is a mummy shaft (caution advisable). The road now leads to the S.W. to the =Third Pyramid=, Egyp. _Neter-Menkewrē_ (‘divine is Menkewrē‘), built by Menkewrē, the Mykerinos of Herodotus. Its perpendicular height is 204 (once 218) ft., while its sides rise at an angle of 51°; each side of the base measures 118 yds. The stones are unusually large. To the S. rise _Three Small Pyramids_. We next walk to the remains of the _Temple of the Dead_ to the E. of the third pyramid and then follow the ancient paved track by which the stones were once brought up from the Nile valley. On the way, among several _Rock Tombs_, are the ruins of an unfinished pyramid. Passing a very ruinous family burial-place of the 26th Dynasty, called _Campbell’s Tomb_ after its discoverer, we now descend to the _Granite Temple_ (see above), and walk to the N.W., past the _Sphinx_ (p. 462), to the _Three Small Pyramids_ (p. 462) near the Pyramid of Kheops. Lastly we may visit the _Rock Tombs_ of the Ancient Empire, near the Arab village _Kafr el-Hâram_. The best-known, the ‘_Tomb of Numbers_‘, contains badly preserved reliefs (counting of cattle). =5.= The EXCURSION TO MEMPHIS AND SAKKÂRA is easily made in one day. Provisions (supplied by the hotels in lieu of déjeuner), candles (obtainable also at Bedrashein), and if possible an acetylene lamp should be taken. We start early from the chief station (first train usually at 7 a.m.) by the Upper Egyptian line for _Bedrashein_ (1 hr.; fare 16½ or 8½ pias.), where donkeys are in waiting (to Sakkâra and back 10 pias.; bargain should be made in presence of the Bedouin sheikh). The ride back takes fully 1½ hr. (train for Cairo at present 4.56 p.m.). Tickets for the monuments (5 pias.) are sold by the custodians or at _Mariette’s House_ (p. 465). Robust travellers may ride from Sakkâra along the margin of the desert, or viâ the pyramids of _Abusîr_, in 2½–3 hrs. to the _Mena House Hotel_ (p. 461). The charge (15–20 pias.) should be agreed upon with the donkey-boy at the Bedrashein station. In the reverse direction we may go by tramway to Gîzeh (comp. p. 461), and ride thence viâ the Pyramids of Gîzeh to Sakkâra (donkey 20, camel 30 pias.; comp. pp. 173, 174). Or we may drive in a desert-car (80 pias.) from Mena House Hotel along the border of the desert to Sakkâra. The RAILWAY, passing _Bûlâk_ (p. 454), runs to the N.W. and crosses the _Nile_. 2 M. _Embâbeh_, noted for the ‘battle of the Pyramids’, in which Bonaparte defeated the Mamelukes in 1798.—Describing a circuit the train next comes to (6¼ M.) _Bûlâk ed-Dakrûr_, on a Nile canal. At (8 M.) _Gîzeh_ (p. 461) we sight the Pyramids (p. 461) on the right, and then, on the left, Old Cairo (p. 460) and the long range of the Mokattam (p. 454), continued to the S.E. by _Gebel Turra_. Next, on the left, is _Gezîret Tirsâ_, an island in the Nile. 14½ M. _Abu Nemrûs._ On the right rise the hills bordering the Libyan desert, with the pyramids of Abusîr. Beyond (17½ M.) _El-Hawamdîyeh_ the step-pyramid (p. 465) is visible for a short time. To the left, at the foot of Gebel Turra, lies _Helwân_ (_Hélouan_), a winter health-resort. 20½ M. =Bedrashein=, on the E. side of the railway. From the railway-crossing we ride to the W., past the village (Wed. market), by a road through green fields, which are entirely flooded in autumn, to the (20 min.) palm-grove of Bedrashein. In the foreground, shaded by palms, lies the site of =Memphis=, now a heap of débris, the oldest capital of Egypt, founded under the name of ‘White Walls’ about 3400 B.C. by Menes, the first historical king. The vast area of the ruins seems to have extended, down to the 12th cent. A.D., as far as Gîzeh. The chief quarters of the city probably lay on the fields of Bedrashein and _Mit-Rahîneh_. The road forks 20 min. beyond Bedrashein. The SUMMER ROUTE, impassable during the inundations, leads to the left in about 8 min. to the two *_Colossal Statues of Ramses II._ (p. 456), both now prostrate, which once stood at the entrance to the famous temple of Ptah. The first is 25 ft., or including the crown 31½ ft., long; the second, protected by a mud-hut (adm. 4 pias.), is 42 ft. in length. We now ride on, leaving the village of Mit Rahîneh at a little distance to the right, towards the palm-grove of _Sakkâra_, at the foot of the desert-plateau. On the yellow sand of the desert rise eleven pyramids. To the extreme left (S.) is the necropolis of _Dahshûr_, where the ‘blunted pyramid’ or ‘pyramid of the two angles’ catches the eye. To the right (to the N.W. of the huts of Sakkâra) rise the Onnos and step-pyramids (see below). Turning to the N. near Sakkâra, ½ hr. beyond the statues of Ramses, and skirting the palm-grove, we ride towards the ruins of some mud-built houses. The WINTER ROUTE from the bifurcation mentioned at p. 464 makes a long bend to the N. and leads through the palm-grove of Bedrashein and past the ruins of the brick houses of ancient Memphis; it then crosses a sluice-bridge, passes on either side several ponds, and rejoins the summer route. We now ascend to the sandy plateau and overlook the *=Necropolis of Sakkâra=. This vast area, about 4½ M. long from N. to S. and from 550 to 1600 yds. in breadth from E. to W., has afforded material for repeated exploration. We ride straight to the *_Step Pyramid_ (Arab. El-Hâram el-Mudarrag), the great landmark of Sakkâra. This was the tomb of king Zoser (3rd Dynasty, about 2900–2850 B.C.), and is still older than the pyramids of Gîzeh. It is 196 ft. high, and each step recedes about 6½ ft. About 330 yds. to the S.W. of the Step Pyramid rises the _Pyramid of King Onnos_ (or Unis; about 2550 B.C.), which is easily scaled. The view embraces all the pyramids from Dahshûr to Gîzeh. The central chamber and burial-vault in the interior (shown by the custodian) are full of hieroglyphic inscriptions, the oldest religious Egyptian text known. Beyond the Step Pyramid, in the direction of Mariette’s House, we suddenly obtain a striking view of the pyramids of Abusîr and Gîzeh to the N.; in the palm-shaded Nile valley, bordered by the yellowish-grey desert, we observe in the distance the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454). When the road forks we ride to the left to the _Mastaba of Ptahhotep_, the tomb of the highest state-official of a king of the 5th Dynasty (about 2700–2550 B.C.). The interesting, delicately executed wall-reliefs, like those of the almost contemporaneous mastaba of Ti (p. 466), are among the finest of the Ancient Empire but are imperfectly lighted. The richest wall-decoration is in the sacrificial chamber (funeral repast, rural scenes, etc.). We now repair to _Mariette’s House_, a little to the N., where the famous Egyptologist lived during the excavations. We rest and take luncheon on the terrace here. (Custodians 2½–5 pias.; Arabian coffee provided if desired.) A few min. to the W. of Mariette’s house is the *_Serapeum_, with the underground rock-tombs of the sacred bulls of the god Ptah. Apis, the sacred bull, had a temple of his own at Memphis, and after death was buried with great pomp. He represented man in a future state as identified with the god Osiris, and his tomb was a favourite goal of pilgrims. Hermits too sometimes lived in the narrow cells of the tomb. After Ptolemy I. had introduced the cult of Serapis (p. 435) into Egypt, this new god was identified with Osiris-Apis (Egyp. Oser-hapē, Gr. Osorapis). The temple over the Apis tombs has disappeared, and so too has a second temple erected here by Nektanebos (358–341 B.C.), to which the great sphinx avenue ascended from the plain below. The main passage to the tombs, which was constructed by Psammetichos I. (663–609), is now alone accessible. In the tomb-chambers are still preserved 24 of the huge sarcophagi in which the mummies of the Apis bulls reposed. The famous *_Mastaba of Ti_, to the N.E. of Mariette’s house, is still deeply imbedded in the sand. This was the tomb of the royal architect of king Nuserrē (5th Dyn.). The most beautiful of the reliefs are in the tomb-chamber, which is entered from the road through two vestibules and two passages. We note particularly, on the E. wall, Harvest and Boat-building; on the S. wall, Sacrifices to the dead; on the N. wall, *Scenes from life in the Delta marshes. Those who do not intend to ride on to Gîzeh may, on their way back, glance at the _Tomb of Merekura_, of the early 6th Dynasty, and at the _Street of Tombs_ near it, of like date (including the _Tomb of Enkhmē-Hor_, also called the ‘Tomb of the Physicians’, etc.) For full details, see _Baedeker’s Egypt_. =72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut= (_Smyrna_, _Constantinople_) =viâ Jaffa=. 464 (or 261) M. STEAMERS (mostly small and old; agents at Alexandria, see p. 432; at Port Said, p. 437; at Jaffa, p. 467; at Beirut, pp. 481, 482). =1.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean line (coming from Marseilles, and touching at Alexandria): from Port Said on Frid. (returning Mon. or Tues.) to Beirut, alternately direct in 1 day and viâ Jaffa in 2 days; fare from Port Said to Jaffa 35 or 25 fr., to Beirut 65 or 55 fr.—=2.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (Trieste and Syria line; comp. R. 68; touching at Alexandria): from Port Said on Mon. aft. viâ Jaffa and Haifa to Beirut in ca. 2½ days (returning Thurs. night); fare from Port Said to Jaffa 33 or 22 K, to Beirut 75 or 52 K.—=3.= _Khedivial Mail Co._ (coming from Alexandria), from Port Said on Sun. aft. viâ Jaffa and Haifa in ca. 1½ days to Beirut (going on, every alternate week, to Alexandretta and Constantinople), returning from Beirut Sun. foren.; fare from Port Said to Jaffa £ 1 E 35 pias. or £ E 1, to Beirut £ 2 E 60 pias. or £ E 2.—=4.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (Syria and Egypt circular line; coming from Alexandria), from Port Said on Mon. or Sat. nights viâ Jaffa and Haifa in ca. 2 days to Beirut (going on to Smyrna and Constantinople), returning from Beirut Tues. or Wed. aft.; fare 60 or 44 fr. (to Jaffa 36 or 26 fr.).—=5.= _German Levant Line_, cargo-steamers from Alexandria twice monthly viâ Jaffa and Haifa to Beirut (comp. R. 65).—=6.= _Società Nazionale_ (Lines VII, VII bis; coming from Alexandria), from Port Said each monthly viâ Jaffa to Beirut in ca. 2 days. As to passports, see p. 491; Turkish money, p. 536. _Alexandria_, see p. 431; _Port Said_, see p. 436. The flat Egyptian coast disappears soon after we leave Port Said. Nearing Jaffa we survey the hill-country of _Judaea_, with the heights around Jerusalem and (to the N.E.) the mountains of _Samaria_, The broad coast-plain, flanked with low dunes, is the ancient _Peleshet_, the ‘plain’, stretching from the Egyptian frontier to Mt. Carmel (p. 468), once inhabited by the _Philistines_ (Pelishtîm). * * * * * =Jaffa.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the open roads. In winter, when a westerly gale is blowing, it is often impossible to land. Passengers must then go on to Haifa (p. 468) or to Beirut (p. 481). The arrangements for landing are unsatisfactory; in rough weather as much as 20 fr. is demanded. It is best to land in one of the boats belonging to the hotels or tourist-agents (see below; 6–7 fr. to station or to hotel, incl. baggage, on which a watchful eye should be kept), and to decline the services of other boatmen or of porters and dragomans (Arabic terjumân). The passport office and custom-house are in the S. angle of the harbour. Customs examination, see p. 537. RAILWAY STATION to the N.E. of the town, 1½ M. from the harbour. HOTELS (charges should be ascertained at once; advisable to order rooms beforehand in the height of the season). _Jerusalem Hotel_ and _Hôt. du Parc_, both in the German colony, pens. 12½, in the quiet season 8 fr.; _Hôt. Kaminitz_, in Rue Boustrous, leading to the German colony; _Frank_, in the German colony, with restaurant. TOURIST AGENTS. _Thos. Cook & Son_, opposite the Jerusalem Hotel; _Clark_, in the Hôt. du Parc; _Dr. Benzinger_, at Frank’s Hotel; _Hamburg-American Line_, _Agence Lubin_, both at the harbour.—STEAMBOAT OFFICES all on the quay, to the N.E. of the custom-house. POST OFFICES. _Turkish_ in Rue Boustrous (also International Telegraph); _German_ and _Austrian-Hungarian_, at the N.E. end of the quay; _French_, farther to the N.E.; _Russian_, on the quay, opposite the Quarantine Station. CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _J. Falanga_.—United States Consular Agent, _J. Hardegg_. PHYSICIANS. _Dr. J. M. Keith_ (medical superintendent of the _English Hospital_); _Dr. Lin_ (French); _Dr. Lorch_, _Dr. Saad_ (both German). BANKS. _Anglo-Palestine Co._, _Banque Ottomane_, both in the Gaza Road; _German Palaestina-Bank_, _Crédit Lyonnais_, both on the quay. ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICES, on Sun. at 9.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. CARRIAGES. Drive 1 beshlik (3½ pias.); ½ day 10, day 20 fr.; to Jerusalem (7–8 hrs.) in the season 50–60 fr. (single seat 10–15 fr.), to Haifa (1½–2 days), 100–140 fr., according to weather. _Jaffa_, Arabic _Yâfâ_, Gr. _Joppa_ (pop. 47,000, viz. about 30,000 Moslems, 10,000 Christians, and 7000 Jews), originally a Phœnician colony in the land of the Philistines, is mentioned as early as the reign of Solomon (p. 472) as the seaport of Jerusalem. The Maccabees (p. 472) brought it under Jewish domination. During the Crusades it was repeatedly wrested from the Christians, and in 1267 it was destroyed by the Mameluke sultan Beybars. In 1799 the town was stormed by the French under Kléber (p. 444). The old town rises on a rock 118 ft. high, behind the _Quay_, built towards the end of the 17th century. Its streets are very dusty and in wet weather muddy. The quay and its prolongation, the main arteries of traffic, lead in a curve towards the E. to the _Market_ (Sûk), where the Semitic type of the inhabitants is very noticeable. Beyond this market is a public garden with a _Clock Tower_ erected by the town of Jaffa to commemorate the 25th year of the reign of the now deposed Sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909), and several Arabian cafés. The Gaza road leads thence to the right through the S. suburb. The Jerusalem road leads straight on through the new town and a number of orange-groves; after 12 min. a road diverges to the left to the Russian settlement, where we are shown the site of the house of _Tabitha_ and her rock-tomb (Acts ix. 35). The Rue Boustrous leads to the left to the railway-station and the pleasant houses of the _German Colony_, founded in 1868 (about 350 inhab., chiefly of the ‘Temple’ sect). A second colony of these Templars is _Sarona_, 1 M. to the N.E., behind the dunes, in the coast-plain of _Sharon_ between Jaffa and Cæsarea, famed ever since ancient times for its fertility. The vine in particular thrives here admirably. * * * * * Beyond Jaffa the STEAMER soon passes the mouth of the _Nahr el-Aujâ_, the largest river in Palestine next to the Jordan, and then, near the N. boundary of Judæa, the site of _Apollonia_ (now _Arsûf_). Farther on we sight the scanty ruins of _Caesarea Palaestina_ (Arabic _El-Kaisarîyeh_), a seaport founded by Herod the Great, which in the Roman period surpassed Jerusalem. Beyond the _Nahr ez-Zerkâ_ (‘blue river’, p. xxxiii), the _Crocodile River_ of Pliny, come the little town of _Tantûra_, the _Dor_ of the Old Testament, which classical authors say was a Phœnician colony, and then _Atlît_, the _Castellum Peregrinorum_ of the Crusaders, the seat of the Knights Templar in 1218–91, with its grand ruins. The beautiful outlines of *_Mt. Carmel_ (1811 ft.; _Jebel Mâr Elyâs_, ‘sacred mount of Elijah’) become more distinct. On the hill-side is the _Carmelite Monastery_ (558 ft.), the original seat of the order, which extended its sphere to Europe in 1238. Below it, on the evergreen N. slope of the range, rises a _Lighthouse_. Most of the steamers call at the open roads of =Haifa= or _Khaifa_ (Hôt. Karmel or Krafft, pens. 8–10 fr.; carr. at the tourist-office of Unger & Hermann, at G. Sus’s, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., P. Abela; U. S. cons. agent, Th. Struve; pop. 16,000), a rapidly rising commercial town, beautifully situated at the N. base of Mt. Carmel and on the S. shore of the _Bay of Acre_, not far from the site of the _Sycaminum_ of antiquity. The trade is chiefly in the hands of the German ‘Temple’ sect, whose settlement presents a striking contrast to the prevailing Oriental squalor. A ROAD leads from Haifa viâ _Atlît_ and _Tantûra_ (see above), and then inland viâ the Jewish agricultural colony of _Zammarín_ (Hôt. Graff) and _Kakûn_ (410 ft.) to =Nàbulus= or _Nâblus_ (1870 ft.; Hôt. Nablus, German,) once _Sichem_, the capital of _Samaria_. After the war of 67 A.D. (p. 472) it was re-founded by Vespasian as _Flavia Neapolis_. It is now a town of 27,000 inhab. (incl. 700 Christians and 170 members of the Samaritan sect). Fine view from _Mt. Gerizim_ (2848 ft.; Arab. _Jebel et-Tôr_), to the S. of the town. A new road leads from Nâbulus, past _Jacob’s Well_ (St. John, iv. 5–30), viâ _El-Lubban_ and _El-Bireh_, to _Jerusalem_ (p. 470). FROM HAIFA VI DERÂT TO DAMASCUS, 177 M., Railway. One train daily in 10 hrs.; fares, 1st cl., 142½, 3rd cl. 65½ pias. (note exchange at rail. stat.: 1 mejidieh = 19 pias.; 20 fr. = 86½ pias.; £ 1 = 109¼ pias.; £ 1 Turkish = 96 pias.). Most travellers, however, prefer the following profoundly interesting route, joining the train at _Samakh_ (p. 469). We drive from Haifa to (24 M.) _Nazareth_ (1145 ft.; Hôt. Germania, pens. 8–12½ fr.), the home of Christ, whence the Christians in the Levant are still called Nazarenes (Nasâra). Then past _Mt. Tabor_ (1844 ft.; _Jebel et-Tor_; fine view), the traditional scene of the Transfiguration, and _Kafr Kennâ_, the _Cana_ of the Bible (St. John, ii), to (4½ hrs.) =Tabarîya= (82 ft. below sea-level; Hôt. Tiberias or Grossmann, pens. 10–12½ fr.; pop. 7500, incl. many Polish Jews), the ancient _Tiberias_, once the capital of _Galilee_, and, after the destruction of Jerusalem (p. 472), the chief seat of the Jewish nation. It lies high up on the W. bank of the _Lake of Gennesaret_, or _of Tiberias_, or _Sea of Galilee_ (682 ft. below sea-level; 13 M. long, 7½ M. broad), through which flows the _Jordan_. During half of the year the climate in this profound Syrian valley is extremely hot. From Tiberias we row down the lake in 2 hrs. to the rail. station of _Samakh_ (610 ft. below sea-level; 54½ M. from Haifa). The train ascends the *_Yarmuk Valley_ to (100 M.) _Derât_ (1735 ft. above sea-level; Buffet), where it joins the main Hejâz line to _Damascus_ (p. 484; Kadem station).—For details, see _Baedeker’s Palestine and Syria_. Beyond Haifa all the steamers skirt the coast of ancient _Phoenicia_ at some distance from land, as the cliffs here endanger navigation, but the numerous small headlands, bays, and islands adapt it admirably for settlement. It once extended, far beyond Beirut, to the river _Eleutheros_, now _Nahr el-Kebîr_. From afar we sight the lighthouse and forts of _Akka_ or _Acre_, the ancient _Akko_ (later _Ptolemais_). In 1104 it became the naval station of the Crusaders. Taken by Saladin in 1187 it was recaptured by Richard Cœur-de-Lion in 1191 and for a century was a great bulwark of Christianity. Under the name of _St. Jean d’Acre_ it was the seat of the knights of St. John (p. 475) after their expulsion from Jerusalem. Far to the N.E. rises _Mt. Hermon_ (p. 489). Beyond the white _Râs el-Nâkûra_, the ancient _Scala Tyriorum_, and _Râs el-Abyad_, the _Promontorium Album_ of Pliny, we sight a low headland on which lies the poor little town of =Sûr=, with a ruined church of the Crusaders, ruins of their fortifications, and a lighthouse. This was the ancient seaport of _Tyre_, once situated on two islands, but connected with the mainland by an embankment built by Alexander during his famous siege (332 B.C.). Farther on we pass the mouth of the _Nahr el-Lîtânî_ (p. 483), here called _Nahr el-Kâsimîyeh_, and obtain a fine view of the coast-region in front of _Lebanon_; to the E. rise _Jebel er-Rihân_ and _Tômât Nîhâ_ (6070 ft.; ‘twins of Nîhâ’), snow-capped in winter, and to the N.E. the distant _Jebel Sannîn_ (p. 483). Beyond _Sarafant_ (ancient _Zarpath_ or _Sarepta_) opens the broad bay of =Saida=, formerly _Sidon_, the oldest and, next to Tyre, greatest port of the Phœnicians, now girdled by rich vegetation. Passing the mouth of the _Nahr el-Auwâlî_ (ancient _Bostrenus_) and the _Râs er-Rumeileh_, the N. limit of the bay of Saida, we come to the far-projecting _Râs ed-Dâmûr_ and the _Nahr ed-Dâmûr_, the ancient _Tamyras_, which in winter is one of the most copious rivers in the Lebanon region. Near Beirut begin the mulberry and olive groves and the vineyards of the fertile coast-plain. We round the reddish hills of _Râs Beirût_ (p. 483), with the pigeons’ grottoes and lighthouse, and enter _Beirut_ harbour (p. 481). 73. From Jaffa to Jerusalem. 54½ M. RAILWAY. Two trains daily in 3 hrs. 40 min. (1st cl. 70½ pias.; 2nd, inferior to good Engl. 3rd, 25 pias.). Railway rates of exchange: 1 mejidieh = 20 pias.; 20 fr. = 94 pias.; £ 1 = 124 pias.; £ 1 Turkish = 108 pias. (comp. p. 536). _Jaffa_, see p. 467. The train skirts the orchards around Jaffa (with Sarona on the left) and turns to the S.E. through the plain of Sharon (p. 468), following the depression of the _Wâdi Miserâra_. On the right is the agricultural colony of the Alliance Israélite. To the E. rise the bluish hills of ancient _Judaea_. 12 M. _Lydda_, Arabic _Ludd_, Old Test. _Lod_, Gr.-Rom. _Diospolis_, was severed from Samaria by the Maccabees (p. 472) in 145 B.C. and annexed to Judæa. 14 M. =Er-Ramleh= (accommodation at the Franciscan convent; pop. exceeding 7000, incl. 2500 Christians), founded by the Omaiyades (p. 485) in 716, was the _Ramula_ of the era of the Crusades, when it was even more important than Jerusalem. The chief sight is the *_Minaret_ of the oldest mosque (_Jâmi el-Abyad_, ‘white mosque’), famed also for its view. It was erected by En-Nâsir (p. 448) in 1318, in a style recalling the Romanesque transition buildings of the Crusaders (p. 474), but has lost its original summit. The train crosses the Jerusalem road and runs to the S. through marshy flats to (18 M.) the village of _Nâaneh_. At some distance from the railway _Akir_, once _Ekron_, one of the five chief cities of the Philistines (p. 466), lies on the right (W.), and on the left (E.) are the famous ruins of _Tell Jezer_, mentioned in the letters found at Tell el-Amarna (p. 456), originally the Canaanitish (Phœnician) city of _Gezer_ (a drive of 1 hr. from Er-Ramleh). 24½ M. _Sejed._ Soon turning to the E., we ascend the _Wâdi es-Sarâr_ (‘valley of Sorek’, Judg. xvi. 4), which beyond (31 M.) _Deir Abân_ narrows to a wild rocky gorge. 47½ M. _Bittir_, the ancient _Baither_ or _Bethar_, was heroically defended against the Romans during the revolt of Bar Cochba (p. 472). The train then ascends in the _Wâdi el-Werd_ (‘valley of roses’) and crosses the plain of _El-Bukeia_ to (54½ M.) _Jerusalem_. * * * * * =Jerusalem.=—The STATION (2451 ft.; see Pl. C, 9) lies ¾ M. to the S. of the Jaffa Gate; carr. into the town 2–5 fr., according to the season. HOTELS. *_Fast’s Hotel_ (Pl. a; C, 4, 5), Jaffa Road; _Grand New Hotel_ (Pl. c; D, 5), New Bazaar; _Hôt. Hughes_ (Pl. d; C, 4), Jaffa Road; _Olivet House_ (Pl. e; C, 2); _Hôt. Kaminitz_ (Pl. b; C, 4), Jaffa Road. Pension at all 12–15 (out of season 8–10) fr. per day. Agreement advisable. Wine of the country 1–2, French wine from 3 fr. a bottle. HOSPICES. _Prussian Johanniter-Hospiz_ (Pl. g; F, 4), pens. 5 fr.; _German Catholic Hospice St. Paulus_ (Pl. h; E, 2), outside the Damascus Gate; _Austrian_ (Pl. i; F, 3), Via Dolorosa; _Casa Nuova_ (Pl. k; D 4, 5), of the Franciscans; all good, pens. 5–8 fr. RESTAURANTS. _Deutsche Bierhalle_, Jaffa Road; _Lendhold_ (brewery), in the German Temple colony. [Illustration: JERUSALEM] POST OFFICES. _Turkish_ (Pl. C, 5: with the International Telegraph), outside the Jaffa Gate; _French_ (Pl. C, 5), adjoining it; _German_ (Pl. D, 5), etc. TOURIST OFFICES. _Thos. Cook & Son_, inside Jaffa Gate; _Clark_, _Hamburg-American Line_, _Dr. Benzinger_ (North German Lloyd), _N. Tadros_, all in Jaffa Road. CARRIAGES at the Jaffa Gate. Drive ¼ hour, ½ mejidieh. Excursions are best arranged for by tourist-agent or landlord of hotel. So also HORSES, half-day 5, whole day 8 fr.; donkey per day 4–5, half-day 2–3 fr. CONSULATES. British (Pl. 5; A, 1), _H. E. Satow_.—United States (Pl. 13; E, 5): consul, _W. Coffin_. BANKS. _Anglo-Palestine Co._ (Pl. 1; E, 6), opposite the citadel; _Crédit Lyonnais_ (Pl. 2; D, 5) and _Banque Ottomane_ (Pl. D, 5), Jaffa Road; _German Palaestina-Bank_ (Pl. 3; D, 5), inside Jaffa Gate. PHOTOGRAPHS. The best are those of the _American Colony_, of _Bonfils_ of Beirut, and (coloured) of the _Photoglob_ of Zürich, to be obtained from _Vester_ (American Colony Store), _Boulus Meo_, _Sfeir_, and _Shammas_, all in the Grand New Hotel; _A. Attallah_, at the Bâb el-Jedîd; _Salman & Co._, Jaffa Road.—Other favourite SOUVENIRS of Jerusalem are carved olive-wood and mother-of-pearl objects, in which there is a brisk trade; the largest choice is to be found in the square in front of St. Sepulchre’s, but half at most of the price asked should be offered; higher class work is best purchased at the shops mentioned above. CHURCHES, convents, missions, schools, etc. abound (see Baedeker’s Palestine & Syria). Among them may be mentioned the _Collegiate Church of St. George_ (with the Bishop’s House; services at 9 a.m. and 4.30 p.m.), to the N. of the town; _Christ Church_ (Pl. E, 6; services at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.); _St. Paul’s_ (Pl. C, 1, 2; Arabic services at 9.30 a.m. and 3 p.m.). TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, _Mt. of Olives_ (p. 479), _Kidron_ and _Hinnom Valleys_ (p. 480); afternoon, _Church of the Holy Sepulchre_ (p. 474), _Mûristân_ (p. 475), and _Zion_ (p. 473).—2nd. Forenoon, _Haram esh-Sherîf_ (p. 476); afternoon, excursion to _Bethlehem_ (p. 480). The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is open before 11.30 and after 3; a forenoon visit may usually be prolonged by giving a fee to the Moslem custodian (1 fr.). Leave to visit the Haram esh-Sherîf must be obtained from the Turkish authorities through the visitor’s consulate (see above). He is then escorted by a Turkish soldier and usually by a cavass of the consulate also. The cavass receives 8–10 fr., or 4–5 fr. from each member of a party, which covers all fees and outlays. On Fridays and during the Moslem festival of Nebi-Mûsâ (Wed. of Holy Week to Easter Mon.) the mosque is closed to strangers. * * * * * KEY TO PLAN OF JERUSALEM. _Banks_, see above.—_Bazaars_, Old (Sûks) and New, F 5; E 5.—_Churches._ Christ Church (English), E 6; Church of the Redeemer (German Prot.), E 5; Holy Sepulchre, E 4; St. Anne’s, H 3; St. George’s (English), with Bishop’s House, a little to the N. of E 1; St. Mary’s, K 3; St. Mary Magdalen’s, K 4; St. Paul’s (Arab.-Prot.), C 1, 2.— _Consulates_, see above.—_Monasteries._ Abraham’s (Greek), Pl. 19, E 4, 5; Abyssinian, Pl. 14, E 4; Armenian Catholic, Pl. 15, F 4; Coptic, Pl. 16, E 4; Gethsemane, Pl. 20, E 5; Greek (Great), D E 4, 5; Panagia (Greek), Pl. 21, E 4; Panagia Melæna (Gr.), Pl. 22, E 5; St. Basil (Gr.), Pl. 23, D 4; St. Caralombos (Gr.), Pl. 24, E 4; St. Catharine (Gr.), Pl. 25, E 4; St. Demetrius (Gr.), Pl. 26, D 5; St. George’s (Coptic), Pl. 17, D 5; St. George’s (Greek), Pl. 27 & 28, D 4 & E 7; St. John the Baptist’s (Gr.), Pl. 29, E 5; St. John Euthymius (Gr.), Pl. 30, E 4; St. Michael’s (Gr.), Pl. 31, D 4; St. Nicholas (Gr.), Pl. 32, D 4; St. Salvator’s (Latin), Pl. 36, D 4; St. Stephen’s (Dominican), E 1; St. Theodore’s (Greek), Pl. 33, D 4.—_Mosques._ El-Aksâ, H 5, 6; Kubbet es-Sakhra (Dome of the Rock), H 4, 5; Sîdni Omar, Pl. 37, E 5.—_Synagogues_ (indicated by the letter ‘S’ on the Plan), many, E, F 5–7. _Jerusalem_ (Hebrew _Yerushalayim_, Gr. and Lat. _Hierosolyma_, Arabic _El-Kuds_) lies in 31°46′ N. lat. and 35°13′ E. long., on an arid limestone plateau (cold in winter) which rises in the form of a peninsula from the _Kidron Valley_ (_Wâdi Sitti Maryam_, ‘Mary’s Valley’), on the E., and from the _Valley of Hinnom_ (_Wâdi er-Rabâbi_), on the S. side. The narrow E. height (2441 ft.), the ancient _Temple Hill_, is separated from the W. hill, that of the old _Upper Town_ (2550 ft.), by a depression, now very slight, called _Tyropoeon_ (‘dung valley’) by Josephus, the Jewish historian. Still higher is the N.W. angle of the present town (2591 ft.). The population is estimated at 70,000, of whom 45,000 are Jews, living mostly on alms bestowed by the charitable institutions of their European co-religionists; of the 15,000 Christians nearly half are Syrians of the Greek orthodox faith; the Moslems number about 10,000. In spring, especially at the time of the Greek Easter, the town is flooded with pilgrims, the majority being Russians. As a centre of the three chief religions of the world, Jerusalem has quite a religious atmosphere and is historically a city of overwhelming interest, but its tranquillity is sadly marred by the dissensions and jealousies of its numerous religious communities. Careful and patient study alone will reveal to the traveller something of the departed glory of the venerable capital of the Jewish empire. HISTORY. From the tablets of Tell el-Amarna (p. 456) it appears that _Urusalim_ was the capital of a small principality dependent on Egypt about 1400 B.C. When the Israelites under David conquered the town in the 11th cent. (2 Sam. v. 6–10) it was the chief stronghold of the Jebusites, a Canaanitish tribe. David made it his residence and built a castle known as the City of David. His son Solomon, with the aid of Phœnician artificers, afterwards built his palace and the Temple of Jehovah on Mt. Zion (the E. hill). On the bi-partition of the kingdom after his death Jerusalem became the capital of Judah. The kingdom of Israel in N. Palestine was subjugated by the Assyrians in 722 B.C., and in 597 Jerusalem, under Jehoiachin, shared a like fate at the hands of Nebuchadnezzar of Babylon. In 586 the revolt under Zedekiah led to the destruction of the city. On the return of the Jews from captivity in 538 the city and Temple were gradually rebuilt, and the new town-wall was completed in 444. On the death of Alexander the Great in 323 Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Ptolemies (p. 433) and often suffered severely from conflicts with the Diadochi of Syria. The last royal dynasty, that of the Maccabees (167–63), was overthrown by the Romans when Pompey conquered the city. As the residence of Herod the Great (37–4 B.C., according to the accepted chronology), in the last year of whose reign Christ was born, Jerusalem prospered anew. A new palace in the Roman style was erected at the N.W. angle of the upper town, and the rebuilding of the Temple was begun. But a revolt of the Zealots, or Jewish national party, led to embittered struggles with the Romans in 67 A.D., with the result that Jerusalem was stormed by Titus in 70, the Temple burned down, and the city was completely destroyed as Carthage had once been. Another rising of the Jews under Trajan (117) extended as far as the Cyrenaica (comp. p. 413) in N. Africa. On the ruins of the city, on a site almost coinciding with that enclosed by the present city-walls, Emp. Hadrian erected the new pagan colony of _Ælia Capitolina_, from which, after the last revolt, that of Bar Cochba (132–5), Jews were excluded. The modern history of Christian Jerusalem begins with the building of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre by Emp. Constantine (about 326–36). Pilgrims soon flocked to the holy places, and in 570 there were already hospices with 3000 beds for their use. In 614 the Persians under Chosroes II. (p. 485) sacked the city, but when it was captured by caliph Omar in 637 it was treated with clemency, being regarded as a sacred place by Moslems as well as by Christians. In 691 began the erection of the famous Dome of the Rock, on the sacred rock (p. 477), the site of the ancient Jewish Temple, the greatest sanctuary of Islam after the Kaaba of Mecca. Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Egyptian Fatimites in 969, but was wrested from them by the Seljuks in 1077. It was chiefly the maltreatment of the Christian pilgrims by the Seljuks that gave rise to the First Crusade. In 1099 the Crusaders conquered Jerusalem, which under Godfrey de Bouillon (d. 1100) became the capital of the Christian kingdom of Jerusalem. The city was retaken by Saladin in 1187, but in 1229 was voluntarily ceded by Melik el-Kâmil to Emp. Frederick II. Lastly, in 1244, it was stormed by the Kharezmians, and has been under Moslem rule ever since. BOOKS. Among the best of the numerous works on Jerusalem are _Barclay’s_ ‘City of the Great King’, _Besant & Palmer’s_ ‘Jerusalem, the City of Herod and Saladin’ (5th ed., London, 1908), _Warren’s_ ‘Underground Jerusalem’ (London, 1876), and _Wilson & Warren’s_ ‘Recovery of Jerusalem’ (London, 1871). _Miss A. Goodrich-Freer’s_ ‘Inner Jerusalem’ (1904), _Laurence Hutton’s_ ‘Literary Landmarks of Jerusalem’, and _C. R. Conder’s_ ‘The City of Jerusalem’ (London, 1909) also may be mentioned. The *OLD TOWN is enclosed by a *_Wall_ of the 13–14th cent., restored by Suleiman the Great (p. 542) in 1537–41; it is 40 ft. high and about 2½ M. long. The two main streets lead to the W. from the _Jaffa Gate_ (Pl. D, 5, 6; Arabic Bâb el-Khalîl), and N. from the handsome _Damascus Gate_ (Pl. D, 5, 6; Bâb el-Amûd) respectively. They divide the town into four quarters, to the N.W. the Greek-Frank, S.W. the Armenian, S.E. the Jewish, and N.E. the Moslem. The streets are crooked, often vaulted over, and, in the Jewish quarter especially, very dirty. All the houses have rain-water cisterns, besides which there are several reservoirs. The JAFFA SUBURB, situated to the N.W., is the most important, in style the most European. It is the chief seat of the European or ‘Frank’ inhabitants and contains the consulates, several churches, and the extensive _Russian Buildings_ (Pl. A-C, 2, 3).—Outside the _Gate of Zion_ (Pl. E, 7, 8; Bâb en-Nebi Dâûd, ‘gate of the prophet David’), but originally within the town-walls, lies the so-called _Zion Suburb_. It contains the Christian cemeteries, the German Benedictine monastery _Dormitio Sanctae Mariae_ (Pl. E, 8; ‘death-sleep of Mary’), with the new _Church of St. Mary_, and the now Mohammedan buildings of _En-Nebi Dâûd_ (Pl. E, 8; with ‘David’s Tomb’ and the ‘Room of the Last Supper’). Near the railway-station (p. 470) is the substantial German _Temple Colony_ (comp. p. 468). We begin our visit to the old town at the Jaffa Gate, a busy centre of traffic, to which the road from the station leads (p. 480). To the S.E. of the gate, and partly on the site of Herod’s palace, rises the citadel _El-Kala_ (Pl. D, 6; 14th and 16th cent.); the N.E. tower probably corresponds to the Phasaël Tower of the time of Herod. DAVID STREET, one of the chief business streets, under different names (Sueikat Allân, Hâret el-Bizâr, and Tarîk Bâb es-Silseleh; Pl. D-G, 5), connects the Jaffa Gate with the Silseleh Gate of the Haram esh-Sherîf (p. 476). On the left, opposite the citadel, is the well-stocked _New Bazaar_ (Pl. D, 5). At _St. John’s Monastery_ (Pl. 29; E, 5), the Greek pilgrims’ hospice at the S.W. angle of the Mûristân (p. 475), we first turn to the left into the HÂRET EN-NÂSARA (Pl. E, 5, 4; Christians’ Street). On the left is the very ancient _Patriarch’s Pool_ (Birket Hammâm el-Batrak; Pl. E, 5), assigned by tradition to king Hezekiah (about 700 B.C.); on the right is the _Patriarch’s Bath_. Opposite the _Great Greek Monastery_ (Deir er-Rûm el-Kebîr; Pl. D, E, 4, 5), is, on the right, the entrance to the— *=Church of the Holy Sepulchre= (Pl. E, 4; adm., see p. 471), whose principal dome, crowned with a gilded cross, is everywhere conspicuous. This, especially at Easter, is the great goal of the pilgrims. The discovery of the Holy Sepulchre, which Eusebius, Bishop of Cæsarea, the father of church history (314–40), tells us was made by Constantine, induced that emperor to build a round church here, the so-called Anastasis (church of the resurrection), and a five-aisled basilica, dedicated to the sign of the Cross (Martyrion). These churches having been burned down by the Persians (p. 473), Abbot Modestus, under Emp. Heraclius, began to build, in 629, a new church of the resurrection, the prototype of the Dome of the Rock (p. 477), a new church of the Cross, and a small Calvary church on the supposed site of the Crucifixion (Golgotha). A fourth church, that of St. Mary, is said to have existed here in 670. Between 1140 and 1149, the period of the Second Crusade, the Crusaders caused a great new church to be built by the architect _Jourdain_, in the Romanesque transition style, under Arabian influence, an edifice intended to embrace almost all the holy places. On the E. side of the new double church a chapel was dedicated to St. Helena (d. about 326), the mother of Constantine, who, according to later historians, once made a pilgrimage to the holy places and discovered the true Cross near the Sepulchre. On the S. side of the double church a Gothic clock-tower, originally detached, was erected in 1160–80. After the destructions of 1187 and 1244 (see p. 473), we hear of a handsome new church existing here in 1310. At length in 1719 a great part of the church was rebuilt, and at the joint cost of the Greeks and the Armenians, again in 1810 by the architect _Komnenos Kalfa_. Since then the Greek cathedral, the dome-roofed ‘Catholicon’, has occupied the nave of what was once the Crusaders’ basilica. Among the many additions the chapel of the Apparition (p. 475) is one of the oldest (14th cent.). In the N.W. corner of the QUADRANGLE, or outer court, over the Chapel of the Forty Martyrs, rises the Bell Tower, the upper part of which has been destroyed. The Façade, dating from the era of the Crusades, has fine reliefs of the French school over the portals. A vestibule, where the custodians (p. 471) sit, leads to the Stone of Unction (John xix. 38–40), last renewed in 1808. The great ROTUNDA of the Sepulchre still has the foundation pillars, the massive outer wall of the W. semicircle, and the three apses of the Crusaders’ church. The round central structure embraces the Chapel of the Sepulchre and the Angels’ Chapel. Adjoining the Sepulchre is the 14th station of the Via Dolorosa (see below). From the N.E. side of the ambulatory an ante-room leads to the CHAPEL OF THE APPARITION, the chief Latin (Rom. Cath.) sanctuary, on the spot where Christ is said to have appeared to his mother. In a niche is shown a fragment of the ‘Column of Scourging’. The NAVE, which we next visit, has suffered greatly from the introduction of the Catholicon. The pointed windows, the clustered pillars, and the groined vaulting still bear traces of their origin in the Crusaders’ era. The southmost of the three chapels in the apse, in the outer wall of the choir ambulatory, contains the ‘Column of the Derision’. To the left of this chapel a flight of 29 steps descends to ST. HELENA’S CHAPEL, belonging to the Armenians, on the site of Constantine’s basilica, with foundations of the period of Modestus; 13 more steps descend thence to the Chapel of the Finding of the Cross. We now return to the ambulatory and ascend from it, to the left (S.), to the higher-lying GOLGOTHA CHAPELS, the 10–13th stations on the Via Dolorosa (see below). On the S. side of the quadrangle, in front of the Holy Sepulchre Church, lies the =Mûristân= (Pl. E, F, 5), an open space of 170 by 150 yds., which contained, from the days of Charlemagne onwards, the hostels and hospitals of the European pilgrims and, from 1140, the grand buildings of the Knights of St. John. Saladin (p. 443) granted it as a charitable endowment (wakf) to the Dome of the Rock (p. 477), but allowed the old hostels to remain. The larger W. half, with modern shops, now belongs to the Greek patriarchate; the E. half was presented by the sultan to Prussia. At the N.E. corner, next to the street called Hâret ed-Dabbârîn, is the German Prot. _Church of the Redeemer_ (Pl. E, 5). The Mûristân is bounded on the E. by the now unimportant _Old Bazaar_, or sûk, the three parallel streets of which form part of the great thoroughfare between the Damascus and Zion gates (p. 473). The middle street, the Sûk el-Attârin (p. 335), is continued to the N. by the Khân ez-Zeit (Pl. F, 4), from which an alley on the left leads to the _Abyssinian_ and _Coptic Monasteries_. At the Coptic Monastery is the 9th station on the =Via Dolorosa=, the ‘route of suffering’, mentioned for the first time in the 16th cent., on which Christ is said to have borne the Cross from Pilate’s house to Golgotha. The last five stations are within the Holy Sepulchre Church (see above). The other stations lie between the Greek _Monastery of St. Caralombos_ (Pl. 24, E F, 4; 8th station) and the _Barracks_ (Pl. G, 3; 1st station) in the Tarîk Bâb Sitti Maryam (street of the Virgin Mary’s gate). This street leads to the E. to _St. Stephen’s Gate_ (Pl. H, I, 3; 2405 ft.), the only E. gate of the city, called by the natives _Bâb Sitti Maryam_, or Lady Mary’s Gate, from its proximity to the Virgin’s Tomb (see p. 480). Within the gate a passage leads to the N. to the fine old =Church of St. Anne= (Pl. H, 3; Arabic _Es-Salâhiyeh_), on the supposed site of the house of Joachim and Anna, the parents of the Virgin. It is mentioned as already existing in the 7th cent., but in its present form dates chiefly from the 12th. The crypt hewn in the rock is the traditional birthplace of the Virgin, and the tombs of Joachim and Anna also are now pointed out. We now retrace our steps towards the W., and halfway along the Via Dolorosa follow the El-Wâd street (Pl. F, G, 4, 5) to the left, through the hollow of the ancient Tyropœon (p. 472), to the Sûk el-Kattânîn (see below), near the entrance to the Haram esh-Sherîf; or starting from the Old Bazaar, we reach the same point by the TARÎK BÂB ES-SILSELEH (Pl. F, G, 5). The *=Haram esh-Sherîf= (Pl. G-I, 4–6; ‘noble sanctuary’), the ancient site of the Temple, is the most interesting place in Jerusalem. Adm., see p. 471. The usual entrance is by the _Bâb el-Kattânîn_ (Pl. G, 4, 5), the central W. gate, built by En-Nâsir (p. 448) in 1318, behind the now deserted Sûk el-Kattânîn (cotton-market). On this site king David erected an altar (2 Sam. xxiv. 25), and Solomon built his palace and Temple. Here stood also the second Temple, erected about 520–516 after the Babylonish captivity, and the third Temple, begun by Herod the Great (p. 472) in 20 B.C. but never completed on the grand scale projected. On the same spot Hadrian erected a temple of Jupiter as the chief sanctuary of Ælia Capitolina (p. 472), and near the S. wall of the great quadrangle Justinian built a basilica in honour of the Virgin, which afterwards became the mosque of El-Aksâ. Beyond these facts little or nothing is known of the history of this memorable site during the early centuries of the Christian era. Mohammed, who claimed to have visited this spot, evinced great reverence for the ancient Temple, and before he had broken off his relations with the Jews he even enjoined believers to turn towards Jerusalem in prayer. About the year 637 caliph Omar converted the church of St. Mary into a mosque, and the Omaiyade Abd el-Melik (685–705) erected the famous Dome of the Rock on a platform in the centre of the sacred precincts, a building which the Crusaders took to be Solomon’s Temple. Adjoining the mosque of El-Aksâ, then called the Porticus or Palatium Salomonis, probably stood the royal palace of the Franks and the castle of the Knights Templar. The huge substructions of the Temple plateau, the surface of which was much altered by Saladin, still date from the reign of Herod. The plateau itself forms an immense quadrangle of irregular shape (W. side 536, E. side 518, N. side 351, S. side 310 yds. long). In the N.W. corner, once perhaps the site of Baris, the castle of the Maccabees, and of the Roman castle of Antonia, rises the highest _Minaret_ of the Haram. The buildings by the W. and N. walls, Koran schools, dwellings, etc., with open arcades on the groundfloor, are unimportant. The great quadrangle, now partly planted with trees, is studded with numerous _mastabas_, raised platforms with prayer-niches (mihrâbs), and _sebîls_, or fountains for the religious ablutions. Especially to the S.W. of the Dome the ground is honeycombed with deep _Cisterns_, some of which are very ancient. Entering the precincts and passing the pretty _Sebîl_ of Kâït Bey (p. 458) we mount one of the flights of steps of the time of Abd el-Melik to the PLATFORM, 10 ft. in height. The so-called **=Dome of the Rock= (_Kubbet es-Sakhra_; Pl. H, 4, 5), usually but erroneously called Omar’s Mosque, was built, according to the Arabian historians, by Abd el-Melik for political reasons, the Omaiyades being at that period denied access to the Kaaba at Mecca. The year 72 of the Hegira (691–2) is mentioned as the date of its erection. The chief restorations in the middle ages were undertaken by the Fatimite Ez-Zâhir (1021–36), who rebuilt the dome in 1022, and by Saladin, to whom is due the superb stucco decoration of the dome. Most of the later additions were made by the Turkish sultan Suleiman the Great (1520–66). The W. porch alone is quite modern. The building, in the late-Roman and Byzantine style (comp. p. 548), is in the form of an octagon, 50 yds. in diameter, with sides 22½ yds. in length, and with two concentric aisles. Above the inner aisle rises the boldly designed *Dome (98 ft. high), consisting of two wooden vaults placed one inside the other and roofed with plates of copper. The external walls are still incrusted below with their old slabs of marble, while above the window-sills the ancient glass mosaics were replaced in the time of Suleiman by superb Persian porcelain-tiles (kishâni). The keel-arches of the windows are of the same period. The two aisles are separated by two series of supports. Between the eight pillars of the outer octagonal aisle, which are incrusted with marble dating from the time of Suleiman, rise sixteen columns with late-Roman or early-Byzantine capitals, and the round-arched arcades are connected, above the Byzantine imposts, by tie-beams overlaid with copper. The inner row of supports, bearing the dome, consists of four large pillars and twelve antique monolith columns. The pointed arches of the vaulting here, dating from Suleiman’s restoration, rest immediately on the capitals. The wrought-iron screen is of French workmanship of the Crusaders’ era. The glass *Mosaics in the spandrels of the outer aisle, executed by Byzantine artificers, all belong to the earliest building; those in the drum of the dome are partly of the time of Ez-Zâhir and of Saladin. The stucco decoration of the dome was restored under Mohammed en-Nâsir (p. 448) in 1318, and again in 1830. The *Windows, dating from Suleiman’s restoration, present a marvellous wealth of colouring. Enclosed by the inner aisle, and best viewed from the high bench beside the N.W. gate of the screen, is the _Sacred Rock_, measuring 18½ by 14½ yds., and rising 4–6½ ft. above the pavement of the church. Under it is a cavity, probably once a cistern. The rock is supposed to have been the site of the great Jewish altar of burnt-offering. The Jews and the Moslems believe it to have been also the scene of Abraham’s sacrifice. From this spot Mohammed is said to have been translated to heaven on his miraculous steed Burâk, while an angel restrained the rock in its attempt to follow him; here too, they believe, will be erected the throne of God on the Day of Judgment. Outside the E. gate of the Dome of the Rock, and probably as old, is the so-called DOME OF THE CHAIN (_Kubbet es-Silseleh_, or _Mehkemet Dâûd_, ‘David’s Place of Judgment’). This structure consists of two concentric rows of columns, the outer forming a hexagon, the inner an endecagon. The large prayer-recess on the S. side, facing Mecca, is of the 13th century. The arcades, connected by tie-beams, and the drum of the dome are richly adorned with fayence tiles of Suleiman’s period. Across the dome, it is said, will be stretched a chain (silseleh) on the Day of Judgment, from which the awful scales will be suspended. We now descend from the platform by the steps near the ‘_Summer Pulpit_’ (15th cent.), at the S.E. angle, and walk past the round basin of _El-Kâs_ to the— *=Mesjid el-Aksâ= (Pl. H, 5, 6), the sanctuary ‘farthest’ from Mecca and one of the holy places of Proto-Islam, to which God is said to have brought Mohammed from Mecca in one night (Sureh xvii. 1). The mosque without its additions is now 88 yds. long and 60 yds. wide. Of the church of Justinian nothing apparently has survived except the columns of the nave and two inner aisles. The capitals perhaps date from caliph Omar’s period (637). The broad transept was probably constructed by the Abbaside El-Mehdi (775–95); the wooden dome is now covered with lead outside. The transept gave the edifice the form of a =⟙=, which was converted later into a rectangle by the two rows of aisles added on the E. and W. These, in their present shape, and the pointed arcades of the nave and inner aisles, connected by tie-beams, belong to a late period of restoration. The so-called White Mosque, now set apart for women, a long double corridor to the W. of the transept, probably once belonged to the castle of the Knights Templar. The latest addition is the porch built by Melik el-Muazzam Isâ (d. 1227) and restored at a later period. Its middle arcades imitate Frank Gothic. The interior was once almost as sumptuously decorated as the Dome of the Rock. The *Pulpit (mimbar), carved in wood and inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl, executed by order of Nûreddîn (p. 485) in 1169 for the great mosque of Aleppo, was presented by Saladin. To him also the mosque owes the prayer-recess, with its graceful little marble columns, the superb mosaics of the mihrâb-wall, and the drum of the dome. The author or at least restorer of the decorations of the dome is said to have been Mohammed en-Nâsir (p. 448). The windows date only from the time of Suleiman. In the S.E. corner of the Haram area a staircase descends to a small _Moslem Oratory_ with the ‘Cradle of Christ’ and to 13 vaulted galleries, part of the old substructure of the Haram, known as _Solomon’s Stables_. In the sixth gallery, counting from the E., there is a small door in the S. wall called the ‘_Single Gate_‘, an old entrance to the Haram. The roof of the ‘_Golden Gate_’ (Pl. H, I, 4; Bâb ed-Dâhirîyeh), the only E. gate of the Haram, dating from the reign of Justinian (?) but now built up, affords a survey of the whole great quadrangle. At our feet lies the Kidron valley (p. 480), with its rock-tombs, and opposite rises the Mt. of Olives (see below). Time permitting, we may now visit the _Wailing Place of the Jews_ (Kautal Maarbei; Pl. G, 5), to the W. of the Haram, reached by descending (to the S.) the eastmost side-street of the Tarîk Bâb es-Silseleh. It is probable that the Jews, who never enter the Haram precincts for fear of desecrating the holy of holies, were in the habit of repairing hither as early as the middle ages to bewail the downfall of Jerusalem. The scene is most touching on Friday afternoons (after 4 p.m.), when crowds of mourners flock to the place and litanies are chanted. The =Mount of Olives= (_Mons Oliveti_, _Jebel et-Tûr_), running parallel to the Temple hill, is closely associated with the last days of Christ on earth. It is visited (best in the forenoon) either by carriage from the Jaffa or the Damascus Gate (10–12 fr.; ascent ½ hr.), or on horseback (p. 471) or on foot from St. Stephen’s Gate (p. 475). Those who return by the valley of the Kidron should order their carriage to meet them at the Garden of Gethsemane. From the Damascus Gate (p. 473) the road leads past the _Dominican Monastery of St. Stephen_ (on the right; Pl. E, 1) and then, beyond the Anglican _Bishop’s House_, past the so-called _Tombs of the Kings_ (on the right). This large subterranean burial-ground, with its tomb-chambers and shaft-tombs, probably belonged to queen Helena of Adiabene and her family (1st cent. A.D.). The road to Nâbulus soon diverges to the left; ours ascends in a wide curve northwards to the top of the _Scopus_ and to the Mt. of Olives. On the N. height of the Mt. of Olives, to the left of the road, is the new German _Augusta Victoria Institute_ (sanatorium and church). On the E. summit (2665 ft.) are the Russian Buildings, a pilgrims’ hospice, the _Russian Church of the Ascension_, and a six-storied _Belvedere Tower_ (214 steps). The *Panorama embraces the city and the hills around Jerusalem and Bethlehem (the latter itself not visible). Towards the E. lie the Dead Sea (1293 ft. below sea-level) and the Jordan valley (Arabic El-Ghôr), and among the bluish Mts. of Moab rises Mt. Nebo (2644 ft.), whence Moses beheld the promised land before his death (Deut. xxxiv. 1–4). A little to the W. of the Russian Buildings lies the poor village =Kafr et-Tûr=. Near it is the _Chapel of the Ascension_, built in 1834–5, to mark the scene of the Ascension (in contradiction to Luke xxiv. 50, ‘He led them out as far as Bethany’). Of the earlier churches here, one a round building of Emp. Constantine, the other built by the Crusaders, few traces are left. To the S. of the village are the LATIN BUILDINGS, including the _Credo_ and _Paternoster Churches_ (1898). A steep path descends hence, to the W., to the GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE (Pl. K, 4), now the property of the Franciscans. Near the entrance (E. side) a rock marks the spot where Peter, James, and John are said to have slept (Mark xiv. 32 _et seq._), and the fragment of a column close by indicates the traditional scene of the Betrayal. (A monk acts as guide; fee 3–6 pias.) A little higher up the Greeks have their own Garden of Gethsemane, containing the many-domed _Church of Mary Magdalen_ (Pl. K, 4). A few paces to the N.W., on the road to the upper bridge over the Kidron (Pl. I, 3) and to St. Stephen’s Gate, rises _St. Mary’s Church_ (Pl. K, 3; Arabic Kenîset Sitti Maryam), built by queen Milicent or Melisendis (d. 1161) on the site of an ancient church mentioned as early as the 5th cent.; it contains the ‘coffin of the Virgin’, in which she lay until her Assumption. The =Valley of the Kidron=, identified from a very early age with the _Valley of Jehoshaphat_, has been supposed, ever since pre-Christian times, owing to a misinterpretation of Joel iii. 2, to be the future scene of the Last Judgment. The Moslems bury their dead on the E. slope of the Haram esh-Sherîf, and the Jews on the W. slope of the Mt. of Olives. From the Jericho road, to the S. of the Garden of Gethsemane, a path diverges to the right to the lower bridge over the Kidron (Pl. I, 5). To the left of the path are the so-called _Tomb of Absalom_, a cube of rock, with a curious conical roof expanding at the top; _St. James’s Cavern_, a rock-tomb; and the _Pyramid of Zacharias_. All these date from the Græco-Roman period. Farther on, to the S.E., passing below the hill-village of _Siloah_ (Pl. H, I, 7–9; Arabic Kafr Silwân), we come to _St. Mary’s Fountain_ (Pl. H, 7; Aïn Sitti Maryam), an intermittent spring, probably the _Gihon_ of the Old Testament. Since the time of Hezekiah (about 700 B.C.) its water has flowed through the underground _Siloah Conduit_ to the _Pool of Siloam_ (Pl. G, H, 9), within the Jewish town-wall. Farther down the valley we reach in a few minutes ‘_Job’s Well_’ (about 2035 ft.; Bîr Eiyûb). We return thence to the town by the =Valley of Hinnom= (p. 472). The ‘_Zion Suburb_’ (p. 473) rises steeply on the N.W.; to the left is the slope of _Jebel Abû Tôr_, covered with rock-tombs. Near (12 min.) the _Sultan’s Pond_ (see below) we join the Bethlehem road. The EXCURSION TO BETHLEHEM, by a good road (half-a-day; carr. about 12 fr.; horse, see p. 471), will even repay walkers. The road descends to the S. from the Jaffa Gate (p. 473) into the _Valley of Hinnom_ (see above). Beyond the _Birket es-Sultân_ (Pl. C, D, 8), an old Jewish reservoir restored by Suleiman the Great (16th cent.), the station-road diverges to the right. Our road leads to the S.W. across the tableland of _El-Bukeia_ (p. 470), past the traditional _Well of the Magi_ (Matth. ii. 9), to the (3 M.) Greek convent of _Mâr Elyâs_ (left). Bethlehem appears in the foreground. Fine view of the Dead Sea (p. 479) to the left. At (4 M.) ‘_Rachel’s Tomb_’ (Kubbet Râhîl), built like the welis or tombs of Moslem saints, the Hebron road diverges to the right. [Illustration: BEYROÛT VIEILLE VILLE ET BAZAR] [Illustration: BEYROÛT] 5 M. =Bethlehem= (2550 ft.; pop. about 11,000, almost all Christians), the home of David and the birthplace of our Saviour, has a situation resembling that of Jerusalem. It consists of eight different quarters, containing many monasteries, hospitals, and schools. Fine view from the German Prot. _Weihnachtskirche_ (‘Christmas Church’, 1893), on the W. outskirts. Over the traditional birthplace of Christ rises *ST. MARY’S CHURCH, now occupied by the Greeks, Latins, and Armenians jointly. The original columnar basilica of the time of Constantine, with its double aisles, is still the nucleus of the present church. It was thoroughly renovated by the Crusaders, and the superb wallmosaics were restored by the Byzantine Emp. Manuel Comnenos (1143–80). The Greeks, who were in sole possession from 1672 to 1852, unfortunately added the transept wall. INTERIOR. The entrance is by the old central portal, approached from an open space once occupied by an atrium. Three passages lead through the transept, with semicircular apses at either end, to the semicircular choir. Among the almost obliterated mosaics is a quaint representation of the Entry into Jerusalem in the S. apse. Adjoining the choir are two flights of steps descending into the Crypt, or Chapel of the Nativity, and to the ‘Chapel of the Manger’, the ‘dwelling of St. Jerome’ (b. about 340 in Dalmatia, d. in 420 at Bethlehem), and his tomb, which also are highly revered. The stairs on the N. side ascend to the Latin Church of St. Catharine, through which we return to the principal church. For full details, see _Baedeker’s Palestine and Syria_. 74. Beirut. Excursion to Damascus. ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the harbour (Pl. F, G, 1). The landing is better managed than at Jaffa. Boat for 1 pers. 2 fr.; less for a party, as may be arranged. The hotels and tourist-agents send their men on board. The _Douane_ (Pl. F, 1; passport and custom-house formalities; comp. p. 537) is close to the landing-place.—To the E. of the Douane lies the RAILWAY STATION (_Gare_; Pl. F, G, 1). HOTELS. *_Hôt. d’Allemagne_ (Pl. a; E, 1), well spoken of, _Hôt. d’Orient_ (Pl. b; E, 1), both near the sea; _Gassmann’s Hotel_ (Pl. c; F, 1), in the Sûk ed-Jemîl; pens. at these 12–15 fr. (less for a prolonged stay); _Hôt. Victoria_ (Pl. d; E, 1), plainer, etc.—RESTAURANTS. _Blaich_, _Jean Schröter_, both near the Hôt. d’Allemagne. ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS. Four different lines traverse the town (comp. Plan); of these the _Blue Line_ runs from the Place des Canons to the Lighthouse (Phare; Pl. A, 2), near the Râs Beirût (p. 483). CARRIAGES. Drive 1 fr.; per hr. in town 2, in country 2–3 fr. (more on Sun.). Longer drives as may be arranged.—HORSES. Half-day 1, whole day 1½ mejidieh. POST OFFICES. Turkish (_Poste Turque_; Pl. F, 1); British, French, German, and others, Khân Antûn Beg (Pl. F, 1).—TELEGRAPH OFFICE (Internat.; Pl. F, 2), Derb el-Kebîreh (p. 483). BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (Pl. F, 1), _Anglo-Palestine Co._, _German Palaestina-Bank_, all at the harbour.—For the Turkish money, see p. 536. CONSULATES. British (Pl. 2; G, 2): consul-general, _H. A. Cumberbatch_; vice-consul, _H. E. W. Young_.—United States (Pl. 6; C, 2): consul-general, _G. B. Ravndal_; vice-consul, _L. Memminger_. STEAMBOAT AGENCIES. _Khedivial Mail_, opposite the custom-house; _Austrian Lloyd_, _Messag. Maritimes_, and _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, all in Khân Antûn Beg (Pl. F, 1); _Società Nazionale_, opposite the German Bank.—TOURIST AGENTS. _Thos. Cook & Son_, in the Hôtel d’Orient; _Agence Lubin_, Khân Antûn Beg (Pl. F, 1). CHURCHES. _American Presbyterian Mission_ (Pl. F, 2); services on Sun. at 11 a.m. in English and at 9 a.m. in Arabic. Among the many other missions and schools are the _British Syrian_, the _Ch. of Scotland Jewish_, the _Syrian Prot._, and a number of German, French, etc. _Beirut_ (Fr. _Beyrout_, Arab. _Beirût_; pop. 190,000), the chief commercial place in Syria (_Esh-Shâm_), and the capital of the Turkish vilayet (province of a _vali_ or governor) of that name, is beautifully situated, in 33° 50′ N. lat. and 35° 30′ E. long., on the S. shore of _St. George’s Bay_, between _Râs Beirût_ (p. 483) and _Mt. St. Dimitri_. To the E. rises _Lebanon_ (p. xxxiv), with _Jebel Keneiseh_ and _Jebel Sannîn_ (p. 483). The climate is mild and pleasant (mean temperature of Jan. 56° Fahr., of Aug. 81°), and the rainfall is considerable (34 in.). The sea-breezes render the summer bearable, but they are apt to fail in August and September. Many of the citizens then seek refuge in the summer quarters of Lebanon, to which Egyptians and Cypriotes also resort. _Berytus_ (‘fountain’) is mentioned in the tablets of Tell el-Amarna (p. 456) as the seat of the Egyptian vassal Ammunira. It lay in the territory of the _Giblites_, a northern branch of the Phœnicians. In 140 B.C., during the wars of the Diadochi, the town was entirely destroyed. The Romans rebuilt it and named it _Colonia Julia Augusta Felix Berytus_, after the daughter of Emp. Augustus. In the 3rd cent. its school of Roman law became renowned. From that time down to the present day it has been noted also for its silk-industry, which was transplanted to Greece and to Sicily. In 529 the prosperity of the town was destroyed by an earthquake. Since its conquest by the Arabs in 635 it has been in the possession of the Moslems, except during the brief Crusaders’ occupation. Like Saida (p. 469) it was a favourite residence of the able Druse prince _Fakhreddîn_ (1595–1634), who in league with the Venetians wrested Central Syria from the Turks. They, however, later recaptured Beirut. During the 19th cent. Beirut gradually attained a new lease of prosperity. Under the Egyptian rule its sea-borne commerce increased, while Saida and Tripoli declined. In 1840 the town was bombarded by the British fleet and recaptured for the Turks. After the massacre of Christians in 1860 (see p. 485) many Christians from central Syria settled at Beirut. The Moslem inhabitants (about 65,000) are in a considerable minority. Among the Christians there are 64,000 Greeks, 40,000 Maronites, and 2100 Protestants. The Jews number about 5500. An unusually large percentage of the natives can read and write. The chief language is Arabic. Beirut offers few sights. The poor and closely built _Old Town_ contains the _Great Mosque_ (Pl. F, 2), once a Crusader’s church, the _Greek Churches_, and the _Maronite Cathedral_ (Pl. F, 2). The _Sûks_ or markets have lost much of their Oriental character. Most of the genuine native products come from Lebanon (keffîyehs or head-cloths, embroidery, woven stuffs, slippers, bridal chests, etc.). The filigree-work has long been noted (sold by weight). The native population may be studied also in the large _Place des Canons_ or _Place de l’Union_ (Pl. F, 2), on the S. side of the _Serâi_ or government-buildings. The numerous Arabian cafés are for men only. The broad streets of the NEW TOWN skirt the picturesque hill-sides. Palm, orange, and lemon trees abound in the beautiful gardens. The _Damascus Road_ (tramway; Pl. G, 4, 5) leads to the S. in ½ hr. to the _Bois de Pins_ (Pl. G, F, 6), a pine-wood planted by Fakhreddîn for protection against the sand of the dunes. The finest point of view is *_Mt. St. Dimitri_ (Pl. H, 3–5; best by evening light), ½ hr. to the S.E. of the old town. From the Place des Canons we follow the Derb en-Nahr (Pl. G, 2) and the Tripoli road, turn to the right beyond the Greek Orthodox Hospital (Pl. H, 2), and then ascend to the left. From the Place des Canons (tramway, see p. 481) the Derb el-Kebîreh (Pl. F, E, 2) and Derb el-Prusiani lead to the W., below the dunes, to the _Râs Beirût_. After ½ hr. we reach the _Lighthouse_ (Phare or Fanâr; Pl. A, 2). Thence the road descends in windings to the sea and farther on to the ‘_Pigeons’ Grottoes_’ (reached by boat from the harbour in ½ hr.; 1½ mej.). The light is best near sunset. * * * * * FROM BEIRUT TO DAMASCUS, 91½ M., narrow-gauge railway (20 M. being on Abt’s rack-and-pinion system). Two trains daily in 9¼–11 hrs. (fare 110 pias. 10 or 75 pias.). The passenger should have the exact fare ready before booking. _Reyâk_ is the diningstation for the day-train. This Railway Company (French) has its own rate of exchange: 1 napoleon = 87 pias.; 1 sovereign = 110 pias.; 1 mejidieh = 18½ pias. The train runs from the harbour to the E., close to the sea, to the (1½ M.) _Chief Station_, and through the valley of the _Nahr Beirût_ at the E. base of _Mt. St. Dimitri_, soon turning to the S. to (4½ M.) _El-Hadet_. It then rapidly ascends the slopes of _Lebanon_. 10½ M. _Areiya_, 13 M. _Aleih_ (2460 ft.), two summer resorts in the Lebanon. The train threads a tunnel to the highest point of the line (4879 ft.). We then descend, enjoying fine views, to the right and left, of _Jebel el-Barûk_ (6749 ft.) and _Jebel Keneiseh_ (6660 ft.), to (35 M.) _El-Muallaka_, a large village, and station for the Christian town of _Zahleh_ (3101 ft.) on the S. spurs of _Jebel Sannîn_ (8556 ft.; snow-capped in early summer). We next traverse the lofty valley of _El-Bikâ_, the ancient _Bucca Vallis_, watered by the _Nahr el-Lîtânî_ (_Leontes_), once the most fertile part of _Coelesyria_ (‘hollow Syria’). 41 M. =Reyâk= or _Rayak_ (Buffet; halt of ½ hr.), junction for Baalbek (Heliopolis) and Aleppo (Haleb). Passing through the narrow _Wâdi Yahfûfeh_ we next ascend the _Anti-Lebanon Mts._; 54½ M. _Sarrâyâ_ or _Zerghaya_ (4610 ft.) lies between their two main ranges, on the watershed between the Bikâ and the plain of Damascus. Beyond (61 M.) _Ez-Zebedâni_ (3888 ft.) the train enters the valley of that name, famed for its fruit and watered by the _Nahr Baradâ_ (Gr. _Chrysorrhoas_, ‘gold stream’). 71½ M. _Sûk Wâdi Baradâ_ (‘market of Baradâ vale’), at the end of a defile. 76½ M. _Aïn Fîjeh_, the chief source of the Baradâ, has remains of a Roman Nymphæum (see p. 241). 85 M. _Dummar_, a villa-suburb of Damascus. The city with its minarets soon comes in sight. The floor of the Baradâ valley, between (left and right) _Jebel Kâsyûn_ (p. 489) and the hills of _Kalabât el-Mezzeh_, is well planted with trees. At the mouth of the valley the river divides into seven branches which water the great plain of Damascus. Skirting large meadows (_merj_), then orchards, and a _Roman Aqueduct_, the train reaches (89½ M.) _Damascus-Beramkeh_ (see below), where it is usual to alight, and lastly runs past the W. side of _El-Meidân_ (p. 487) to (91½ M.) _Damascus-Meidân_. * * * * * =Damascus.=—RAILWAY STATIONS. =1.= _Beramkeh_ or _Baramki_, near the hotels and the Serâi.—=2.= _Meidân_, near the Bauwâbet Allah, chief station of the Beirut line.—=3.= _Kadem_, for the Hejâz line (p. 469; no cabs).—Cabs and tramway, see below. HOTELS. _Hôt. Victoria_, _Hôt. d’Orient_, _Palace Hotel_, all near the Beramkeh Station and the Serâi; _Hôt. d’Angleterre_, to the E. of the Serâi Square; pens. 10–15 fr. (or more when crowded), in the quiet season 6–10 fr.; good wine of the country (from Shtôra) 1½–5 fr. ARABIAN CAFÉS, the largest and most interesting in the East, mostly on an arm of the Baradâ, in the Serâi Square, on the Beirut road, the Aleppo road, etc.—Visitors should beware of the cold night-air from the river after a hot day. CABS in the Serâi Square, 6–7 pias, per drive, or 10–12 pias. per hr. (always to be agreed upon beforehand); but more on holidays and in the height of the season.—ELECTRIC TRAMWAY (3¼ M.) from the El-Meidân quarter viâ the Serâi Square to the suburb of Es-Sâlehîyeh (p. 489). POST OFFICE and INTERNATIONAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Serâi Square. CONSULS. British, _G. P. Devey_, near the Beramkeh Station.—United States Consular Agent, _N. Meshâka_, in the Christian quarter. DRAGOMANS (Arabic _terjumân_), about 10 fr. a day during the season, desirable for new-comers (comp. p. xxvi), and essential in visiting the Omaiyade Mosque. Travellers should beware of trusting them with money or purchases. BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_, _German Palaestina-Bank_, both in the Sûk el-Asrunîyeh (p. 486).—PHOTOGRAPHS sold by _Suleimân Hakîm_, at the E. end of the Straight Street (p. 487).—BATHS. The _Hammâm el-Khaiyâtin_ and the _Hammâm ed-Derwîshîyeh_ or _el-Malikeh_, among others, are worth seeing. CHURCHES. _English Church_ (_St. John’s_), of the London Jews Society, in the Hammâm el-Kari Quarter; _Rev. J. E. Hanauer_; Sun. service at 10.30. Also Edinburgh Medical, British Syrian Mission, Irish Presbyterian, and other missions, with excellent schools, hospitals, etc.—The Latins, the Greeks, and the Jews also have their own schools. SIGHTS (when time is limited). 1st Day, in the forenoon, _Serâi Square_, the _Bazaars_, and _Meidân_ (pp. 486, 487); afternoon, _Es-Sâlehîyeh_ and _Jebel Kâsyûn_ (p. 489).—2nd Day. _Mosque of the Omaiyades_ (p. 488). _Damascus_ (2268 ft.), formerly called _Dimishk_, a name still sometimes used, but commonly called by the natives _Esh-Shâm_ (a term applied also to the whole of Syria; p. 482), lies on the borders of the _Syrian Desert_ (p. xxxiii) in the _Rûta_, a beautiful oasis between Anti-Lebanon and the ‘_Meadow Lakes_‘, into which fall all the branches and canals of the Baradâ. As the Koran pictures paradise as a garden, where luscious fruits drop into the mouth, the Arabs have ever regarded Damascus, with its luxuriant orchards, as the prototype of that blissful abode. The Rûta does not, however, and least of all in winter, impress Europeans quite so favourably. Yet in May, when the walnut-tree is in full leaf and the vine climbs exuberantly from tree to tree, or still later, when the apricot-trees in the midst of their rich carpet of green herbage bear their countless golden fruits and the pomegranates are in the perfection of their blossom, the gardens are truly beautiful. HISTORY. With regard to the foundation of Damascus, which like the whole of Syria belonged from about 1500 B. C. onwards to Egypt and to the Hittite empire (p. 547) alternately, countless traditions are current among the Jews, Christians, and Mohammedans. After David had temporarily extended his sway to Damascus, there arose here, in Solomon’s time, an independent Aramæan kingdom under Rezon (1 Kings, xi. 23–25). In the protracted struggles between the neighbouring kingdoms of Israel and Judah the Syrian kings generally succeeded, by means of judicious alliances, in maintaining their independence. In the annals of the Assyrians, who destroyed Damascus in 732, the town is called _Dimaski_ and the kingdom _Imîrisu_. From that time onwards Damascus lost its political importance; but it continued, especially under the sway of the Seleucides of Antioch during the period of the Diadochi, to prosper as a trading and industrial city and as the starting-point of the caravan traffic with Mesopotamia and Persia. When it became a Roman provincial city it formed a political bulwark against the Arabs (Nabatæans) and Parthians. In 611 A. D., under the Byzantine emperor Heraclius, many of its inhabitants were carried into captivity by the Sassanide _Chosroes II._ With its conquest by the Arabs in 635 begins the most brilliant period in the history of the city. Under _Mûawiya_ (661–79), founder of the dynasty of the _Omaiyades_, the greatest of Arabian princes, it became the seat of the caliphate. But when the _Abbasides_ removed their residence to Mesopotamia in 750 Damascus again sank to the position of a provincial town. It fell successively into the hands of the Egyptian Tulunides and Fatimites (p. 443), and at length in 1075 succumbed to the Seljuks (p. 542). In 1148 it was unsuccessfully besieged by Conrad III. Under _Nûreddîn_ and _Saladin_ (p. 443) Damascus was the chief base of all the wars against the Crusaders. During the conflicts between the Mongols, who under _Hûlagû_ had captured the city in 1260, and the Egyptian Mameluke sultans, Damascus was specially favoured by _Beybars_ (1260–77). During the great predatory expedition of the Mongols under _Timur_ (1399–1400) many scholars and artists, including the city’s famous armourers, were exiled to Samarkand. In 1516 the Turkish sultan _Selim I._ (p. 542) entered the city as its final conqueror. In 1860 there took place a great massacre of Christians in which the Christian quarter was utterly destroyed and about 6000 Christians killed. Damascus consists of several different quarters. The _Jews’ Quarter_, as in the time of the Apostles, adjoins the ‘Straight Street’ (p. 487), on the S.E. side of the city; to the N.E. of it is the poor _Christian Quarter_. The other parts of the town are Moslem. Far towards the S. stretches the suburb of _Meidân_, inhabited by peasants. The Arabian houses in the old town are noted for their splendour. They usually contain a spacious court, adorned with fountains, flower-beds, orange-trees, etc., and flanked on the S. side by a lofty open arcade (_lîwân_) with pointed arches. The population is roughly estimated at 300,000, of whom four-fifths are Moslems, and there is a garrison of 12,000 men. The Damascenes are notorious for their ignorance and fanaticism. The city was once a great centre of learning, but of about a hundred old _medresehs_ or colleges five only now remain. The famous old weaving industry of the place (still employing about 10,000 primitive looms for silk, woollen, and cotton stuffs) is being steadily ousted by European competition. The busy bazaar traffic here is hardly less picturesque than at Cairo. We begin our visit at the SERÂI SQUARE, the centre of business, built over the main branch of the Baradâ (p. 484). A _Monument_ here commemorates the opening of telegraphic communication with Mecca. To the E. of the square are the *=Bazaars=. Through the covered _Sûk Ali Pasha_ (fruit and tobacco) we reach the _Sûk el-Hamîr_ (donkey-market), beyond which is an open street where corn is sold. At a large plane-tree here we turn to the right to visit the interesting _Sûk es-Surûjîyeh_ (saddlers’ market), which ends near the citadel at the _Sûk en-Nahhâsîn_. This is the bazaar of the coppersmiths, who make the handsome _kursi_, or trays placed on wooden stands (p. 487) to serve as tables. The =Citadel= (no admittance), a huge castle in the style introduced by the Crusaders, was built in 1219 and was afterwards restored by Beybars (p. 485). The thick walls stand on ancient substructures of massive blocks. At the corners rise square towers with bartisans. The chief gate is on the W. side. From the W. side of the Citadel the chief thoroughfare of the city (tramway, see p. 484) leads past the _Military Serâi_ and the _Hammâm el-Malikeh_ (or _ed-Derwîshîyeh_) to the Meidân suburb (p. 487). On the left is the _Sûk el-Kharrâtin_, or Turners’ Market. Opposite the Military Serâi is the entrance to the ‘_Greek Bazaar_‘, a covered market restored in 1893, one of the largest in the city. Among the wares, for which buyers can hardly offer too little, are weapons, antiquities, clothing, pipe-stems, and ‘damascened’ daggers (made in Germany). Straight through the Greek Bazaar we come to the _Sûk elHamîdîyeh_, also renovated, with its attractive Arabian sweetmeatshops. A side-street leads thence (l.) to the bazaar for _Water Pipes_ (a kind of hookah smoked by the peasants) and the _Sûk el-Asrunîyeh_, for utensils, glass, henna (p. 108), and attar of roses (p. 335). Beyond the _Sûk Bâb el-Berîd_ (on the left) we pass the almost deserted bazaar-street of the _Booksellers_ (leading to the Omaiyade mosque, p. 488), with an old _Triumphal Arch_; whence a double row of columns once led to the ancient temple (see p. 488). We then turn out of the Hamîdîyeh, to the right, into the _Cloth Bazaar_ (chiefly imported goods). On the right is the _Tomb of Nûreddîn_ (p. 485; unbelievers not admitted). Adjoining the S. side of the mosque are the bazaar of the _Joiners_, where we note the kabkâbs, a kind of patten, the kursistands, and the bridal chests, and that of the _Goldsmiths_. To the S. of the great mosque is the region of the KHÂNS (p. 445). We come first to the _Khân el-Harîr_, or silk-bazaar, now that of the furriers. Near it is the _House of Asad Pasha_, one of the finest in the city (admittance with the aid of a dragoman). The *_Khân Asad Pasha_, with its superb stalactite portal, is the largest of all. Near this point runs the ancient ‘STRAIGHT STREET’ (Acts ix. 11; now Sûk et-Tawîleh, or ‘long market’), connecting the Meidân road with the Bâb esh-Sherki (see below). A few paces to the W., towards the Meidân road, on the left, is the _Khân Suleimân Pasha_, for Persian carpets and silks. On the right, where the cloth-bazaar (see above) diverges, is the _Silk Bazaar_ proper, for the sale of keffîyehs (head-cloths, ‘kerchiefs’), table-covers, embroidery, woollen cloaks (abâyehs) for peasants and Bedouins, etc.—We next come to the _Sûk el-Attârîn_, or spice-market, and to the _Meidân Road_. At the point where we join this road rises the =Jâmi es-Sinânîyeh=, one of the most sumptuous mosques in Damascus. The chief portal (E. side), with its rich stalactites, and the minaret enriched with fayencetiles (kishâni, p. 477) are interesting. The road forks farther on. We follow the Meidân Road (at first called _Sûk es-Sinânîyeh_) to the S. Close to the _Jâmi el-Idein_, where the Meidân Road trends somewhat to the right, we pass, on the left, the Moslem cemetery _Makbaret Bâb es-Sarîr_, where women weep at the tombs on Thursdays. The poor suburb of =Meidân= is modern. Its numerous mosques, including the fine _Kâat el-Ûla_, are in a ruinous state. The sûk is frequented by corn-dealers, whose grain is heaped up in open barns, and by smiths. The arrival of caravans here presents a picturesque scene. The long strings of camels are attended by ragged Bedouins. Among them are seen Haurânians, bringing their corn to market, and here and there a Kurd shepherd with his square felt-mantle driving his sheep to the shambles. The Bedouins, armed with guns or with long lances, sometimes ride beautiful horses. The wealthy Druses from Lebanon have a most imposing appearance. Twice a year almost all these types may be seen together: on the departure, and again, better still, on the return of the Mecca pilgrims. If time permit we may now retrace our steps to the cemetery Makbâret Bâb es-Sarîr (see above) whence we take a short walk along the =City Wall=, on the S.E. side of the old town, beyond the Jewish and Christian quarters (p. 485). Its foundations are Roman, the central part dates from the days of Nûreddîn and the Egyptian sultan El-Ashraf Khalîl (1291), and the upper part from the Turkish period. Passing the camping-ground of the caravans from Bagdad and the _Bâb esh-Sherki_ (E. Gate, originally Roman), we come to the well-preserved _Bâb Tûmâ_ (St. Thomas’s Gate). [About ¾ M. to the S. of the Bâb esh-Sherki are Christian burial-grounds; in one of which _Henry Thomas Buckle_, the eminent English historian (d. 1862), is interred.] Near the Bâb Tûmâ on the Aleppo road, beyond the Baradâ, are public gardens and pleasant cafés patronized by Christians. We return thence to the _Citadel_ (p. 486), passing between the Baradâ and the N. side of the town-wall, here probably Byzantine. The great *=Omaiyade Mosque= (_Jâmi el-Umawî_), the finest monument of that dynasty in Syria next to the Dome of the Rock (p. 477), deserves close inspection. Entrance by the W. gate (_Bâb el-Berîd_), at the end of the booksellers’ sûk (p. 486). Gratuity to the sheikh who acts as guide ca. 1 mejidieh each person; addit. charge for slippers 1–2 pias. each person. On the site of the mosque there once stood a Roman temple within a large quadrangle. This was succeeded by the church of St. John, a three-aisled basilica built by Emp. Theodosius I. (379–95), and so named from the ‘head of John the Baptist’ (Arabic Yahyâ) preserved in the Confessio, by which the Damascenes still swear. After the conquest of the city by the Arabs (p. 485) the E. half of the church was assigned to the Moslems. Caliph Welîd (705–15) deprived the Christians of the W. half also; and in 708, with the help, it is said, of 1200 Byzantine artificers, he transformed the church into the present mosque, which was so magnificent that Arabian authors extolled it as one of the wonders of the world. Adjacent to it the earliest school of learning was built by caliph Omar II. (717–20). The mosque was carefully restored after fires in 1069, 1400, and 1893, but its ancient glory has departed for ever. We enter the great COURT, which with the mosque itself forms an immense rectangle of 143 by 104 yds., and is flanked by two-storied arcades in the Byzantine style. Behind these are the sleeping-apartments and studies of the teachers and students. The old marble pavement of the court, the mosaic incrustation of the walls, and the crown of pinnacles have disappeared. The fountain of ablution (_Kubbet en-Naufara_) and the two smaller domed buildings are modern. Of the three TOWERS the ‘bride’s minaret’ (_Mâdinet el-Arûs_; now being rebuilt) on the N. side of the court is said to date from the time of Welîd. The ‘minaret of Jesus’ (_Mâdinet Isâ_), at the S.E. angle of the mosque, recalls the Crusaders’ edifices. The _Mâdinet el-Rarbîyeh_, at the S.W. angle, in the Egypto-Arabian style and famed for its view, was added by Kâït Bey (p. 458). The INTERIOR (143 by 41 yds.), with its three span-roofs, still has the form of an early-Christian basilica. Above each of the two rows of columns, 23 ft. high, which separate the aisles, rises a row of ‘colonnettes’ with round-arch openings, to which similar round-arched windows in the outer walls correspond. In the centre a threefold transept, with four huge pillars supporting the dome (Kubbet en-Nisr, eagle’s dome), indicates the direction of Mecca. The Byzantine glass-mosaics of the time of Welîd, the superb timber ceiling, and the mihrâb and mimbar (15th cent.) were all sadly damaged by the fire of 1893. In the central aisle on the E., over the ‘head of John the Baptist’, rises a modern dome in wood. On the N. side of the mosque, near the _Bâb el-Amâra_, are the handsome _Tomb of Saladin_ (Kabr Salâheddîn; adm. 6 pias.) and the _Medreseh_ and _Tomb Mosque of Sultan Beybars_ (p. 485), the latter, according to the inscription, built by his son in 1279. The suburb of =Es-Sâlehîyeh= (tramway, see p. 484), l–1/4 M. to the N.W. of the Serâi Square, has about 25,000 inhab., mostly descended from Seljuks, reinforced later by Kurds and by Moslem refugees from Crete. The finest of the ruinous mosques, but not readily shown, is the tomb-mosque of _Muhieddîn ibn el-Arâbi_ (d. 1240), adjoined by the tomb of Abd el-Kâder (p. 221). From the Cretan quarter at the W. end of the suburb we may ascend, past a platform affording a good view, to the (1¼ hr.) top of the _Jebel Kâsyûn_ (3718 ft.). The *View at the small _Kubbet en-Nasr_ (‘dome of victory’) embraces the city, encircled by the broad green belt of the oasis of the Rûta, the barren heights of Anti-Lebanon, with the long chain of _Mt. Hermon_ (9052 ft.; generally snow-capped) to the S.W.; and to the S.E., beyond _Jebel Mâni_, the distant hill-country of the _Haurân_. Fuller details in _Baedeker’s Palestine and Syria_. 75. From Beirut to Smyrna (_and Constantinople_). 713 M. STEAMERS (agents at Beirut, see p. 481; at Smyrna, p. 531; at Constantinople, pp. 538, 539). =1.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (N. Mediterranean Marseilles and Beirut line), from Beirut every alternate Sat. (from Constantinople on Thurs.) viâ Rhodes, Vathy, and Smyrna to Constantinople in 4 days (fare 205 or 140 fr.).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (see also R. 72; Syria-Egypt circular line, coming from Alexandria) from Beirut on Thurs. night (in the reverse direction Thurs. aft.) viâ Tripoli, Alexandretta, Mersina, Chios, and Smyrna to Constantinople in 8½ days (fare 284 or 212 fr.; to Smyrna 198 or 148 fr.).—=3.= _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (comp. also R. 72; from Alexandria and calling at Port Said) leaves Beirut every alternate Wed. foren. (returning Sat. aft.) for Constantinople (in 7 days) viâ Tripoli, Alexandretta, Mersina, Rhodes, Chios, Smyrna, Mytilini, the Dardanelles, and Gallipoli (fare £E 9¼ or £E 6½; see p. 431). _Beirut_, see p. 481. The French steamers make straight out to sea in a W. direction. Astern Lebanon remains long in sight. About half-a-day’s steaming brings us in view of the mountains of =Cyprus= (Turk. _Kibris_; pop. ca. 243,000), culminating in the bare _Troodos_ (6408 ft.). Under the Phœnicians and Greeks _Kypros_, the third-largest island in the Mediterranean (3613 sq. M.), was the seat of the cult of Aphrodite and the scene of a peculiar civilization, the product of Egyptian, Phœnician, and Greek influences in succession. In the middle ages the island was governed by kings of the house of Lusignan and was for a time the seat of the Knights of St. John (1292–1308; see pp. 475, 469, 490). Since 1878 it has been under British protectorate and only nominally Turkish. Far away to the right we see the table-shaped _Capo Greco_ and the bays of _Larnaka_ and _Limassol_. We then pass, on the S. coast of Cyprus, the prominent peninsula of _Akrotiri_, with _Cape Gata_ (lighthouse) and _Cape Zevgari_. Beyond _Port Paphos_ (lighthouse) we skirt the rocky W. coast of the island. On the coast of =Asia Minor= (Anatolia), on a clear day, we sight the beautiful ranges of the _Lycian Taurus_ (10,500 ft.; p. xxxiii); at night the lighthouse on the island of _Kasteloryzo_ (ancient _Megiste_), with the seaport of _Mandraki_, is sometimes visible. To the S.E. of Rhodes we cross one of the deepest parts of the Mediterranean (12,683 ft.). Nearing =Rhodes= (562 sq. M.; ca. 30,000 inhab.), the eastmost island of the _Greek Archipelago_, we sight its S.E. coast as far as _Attáiros_ (4068 ft.; formerly _Atabyrion_) and _Cape Lartos_. The latter rises beyond the small bay of _Lindos_, which together with Ialysos and Kamiros, ancient Greek towns on the N. coast, and with Cnidus, Cos, and Halicarnassus, once formed the league of the Doric Hexapolis. The French steamers call at _Rhodes_ (Hôt. Karayannis, good; Brit. vice-cons.), the capital of the island, picturesquely situated at its N.E. point. Founded in 408 B. C. by the three older towns (see above) it became famous in later Greek times for its navy and for the Colossus of Rhodes, a bronze statue of Helios 112 ft. high, which was accounted one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The ruinous mediæval *Fortifications and the Strada dei Cavalieri, with the old ‘Houses’ (places of assembly) of the different nations, recall the mediæval glory of Rhodes under the sway of the Knights of St. John (1308–1522) after their expulsion from Cyprus (p. 489). We next steer through the _Ægean Sea_, where the scenery and the historic associations are alike most attractive. We pass the _S. Sporades_, Greek islands off the coast of ancient _Caria_ and _Lydia_, once ruled by the Knights of St. John, and now called _Dodekanesos_ (‘twelve islands’), which enjoy autonomy under Turkish suzerainty. Steaming to the W.N.W. we cross the inland sea of the ancient _Doris_, between Rhodes and Cos, noted for its sponge-fishery. On our right lies the Anatolian peninsula of the ancient _Chersonesus Rhodia_, with _Cape Alupo_ (_Cynossema_) and the island of _Symi_ (_Syme_); to the W. rise the precipitous and fissured island of _Telos_ (_Tilos_; 2008 ft.) and the volcanic island of _Nisyros_ (2268 ft.), with its huge, still smoking crater and its hot springs. To the N.W. stretch the long outlines of _Chersonesus Cnidia_, with the ruins of _Cnidos_ and _Cape Krio_ (_Triopium Promontorium_). The steamer rounds the E. coast of Cos (2871 ft.; Turk. _Istankiöi_; not one of the Dodekanesos group), once the seat of the most ancient shrine of Æsculapius and of a famous medical school (Hippocrates), and passes the peninsula of _Budrum_ (_Halicarnassus_). To the W. appear in succession the islands of _Kalymnos_ (2248 ft.), _Leros_ (1086 ft.), _Lipso_ (902 ft.; _Lepsia_), and _Arki_ (_Acrite_). To the E. of the island of _Gaïdaronisi_ (696 ft.; _Tragia_), where Cæsar was captured by pirates in 76 B. C., opens the _Latmian Bay_, belonging to the ancient _Ionia_, now silted up by the deposits of the Mæander. A little inland are the ruins of _Miletus_ and _Priene_. The French steamers now pass through the _Straits of Samos_, between the _Samsun Dagh_ (4150 ft.; _Mykale_) and the island of =Samos=, whose old capital, _Samos_, now _Tigani_, with its walls of the age of Polycrates and its new harbour (1908), is seen in the distance. =Vathy= (Xenodochion Hegemonia tēs Samu, a good inn; pop. 9500), the new capital of Samos, lies in the bay of Scalanova (set below), on the N. coast. Above the narrow bay rises the distant Samsun Dagh. On the shore stands the plain palace of the Samian princes. Since 1832 the island has formed a Christian-Greek state under Turkey. The _Museum_, in the court of the high school, contains antiquities from the famous shrine of Hera and from Tigani. The French vessels, soon after starting, offer a retrospect of _Mt. Kerki_ (4725 ft.; _Cerceteus Mons_), the highest in Samos, and then cross the _Bay of Scalanova_ (_Sinus Caystrius_). In the hill-country on the mainland, to the E. of this bay, near the mouth of the _Cayster_ or _Kaystros_, once lay the rich Ionian towns of _Ephesus_ and _Colophon_ and, to the N. of these, _Lebedus_ and _Teos_. Passing the _Bay of Sighajik_ and _Cape Koraca_ (_Carycium Promontorium_) we soon reach the _Straits of Chios_ (comp. p. 492). _Smyrna_, see p. 530; voyage thence to _Constantinople_, see p. 533. 76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (_and Constantinople_). FROM ALEXANDRIA TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens: 590 M.): =1.= _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (Alexandria and Constantinople line), from Alexandria on Wed. (returning from the Piræus Thurs.) aft., in 42 hrs. (fare £ E 5 or £ 3 E 25 pias.).—=2.= _Rumanian Mail Line_ (Alexandria and Constantza line), from Alexandria on Frid. aft. (returning from the Piræus Sat. aft.), in 2 days.—=3.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (Odessa, Constantinople, and Alexandria line), from Alexandria on Frid. aft. (from the Piræus Tues.), in 2 days (130 or 90 fr.). FROM ALEXANDRIA TO SMYRNA (623 M.), steamers of the Belgian company _La Phocéenne_ (between Alexandria and Constantinople), every Sat. aft. viâ Rhodes, Leros, and Chios. Agents in Alexandria, see p. 432; at the Piræus, p. 494; at Smyrna, p. 531. Passports for Turkey should be _visés_ before starting, or a Turkish passport (_teskeré_) may be obtained at the government buildings (p. 434). _Alexandria_, see p. 431. The ATHENS STEAMERS steer to the N.W. to the _Strait of Kasos_, 28 M. broad, lying between _Kasos_ (1706 ft.; one of the Dodekanesos group, p. 490) and _Crete_ (p. 415). Behind Kasos rises the lofty island of _Kárpathos_ (4003 ft.; Ital. _Scarpanto_, Turk. _Kerpe_), like the former one of the southmost of the Sporades. Fine view of the _Sitía Mts._ (4852 ft.), continued by the _Lasithi Mts._, together called _Dikte_ in ancient times. Off the E. coast of Crete we see the flat islet of _Elasa_. We steer close by _Cape Sídero_ (lighthouse), the N.E. point of Crete, and past the _Gianitsades_ (_Insulae Dionysiades_). As we steam across the _Cretan Sea_ (_Mare Creticum_) the high mountains of Crete long remain visible. We next pass _Askania_ (469 ft.) and _Christiana_ (916 ft.), the southmost islets of the _Cyclades_ (p. xxxii), which belong to Greece, and which, like the S. Sporades (p. 490) in the _Ægean Sea_, rise from a submarine barrier running between the extremities of Attica and Eubœa (p. 529) and the coast of Asia Minor. Beyond Christiana we have a striking view of the immense prehistoric crater-basin formed by the islands of _Therasía_ (952 ft.) and _Santorin_ (p. 417). To the N. appear the wild rocky island of _Síkinos_ (1480 ft.) and the distant _Iós_ or _Niós_ (p. 417), and to the N.W. _Pholégandros_ (1349 ft.) and the large volcanic island of _Melos_ or _Milos_ (2537 ft.). We steer between Pholégandros on the right and _Polinos_ (1171 ft.) on the left, a broad passage marked by lighthouses at night, and then through the strait between _Kímolos_ (1306 ft.) on the left and _Siphnos_ (2280 ft.; lighthouse) on the right, both of which, like _Sériphos_ (1585 ft.; on the right; with iron-mines), have retained their ancient Greek names. Passing at some distance from _Thermiá_ (1148 ft.; the ancient _Kythnos_) and _Kea_ (p. 529) we steer close by the islet of _Hágios Georgios_ and through the _Bay of Ægina_ to the _Piraeus_ (p. 494). * * * * * On the VOYAGE TO SMYRNA we steam to the N.N.W., 370 M. from Alexandria, to _Rhodes_ (p. 490). Beyond Rhodes on the left are the island of _Charki_ (1954 ft.), off its N.W. coast, and then _Telos_ and _Nisyros_ (p. 490). A little farther on we pass through the strait between the _Syrina Group_, on the left, and the islets of _Kandelëusa_ and _Pantelëusa_ (181 ft.; lighthouse), adjoining Nisyros, on the right. To the W. we sight the double-peaked island of _Astropalia_ (1660 ft.; ancient _Astypalaea_) and _Amorgós_ (p. 417), and to the E. _Cos_ and _Kalymnos_ (p. 490). Beyond the lights on the islet of _Lévitha_ (548 ft.) and beyond _Leros_ (p. 490), at which the steamer calls, the rocky isle of _Patmos_ or _Patínos_ (870 ft.), St. John’s place of exile, becomes more conspicuous. We next steer round _Cape Papas_, the W. point of the bold island of _Nikaria_ or _Ikaria_ (3422 ft.), and then to the N.N.E. through the _Straits of Chios_, 4½ M. in breadth, between the island of =Chios= (Turk. _Sakis Adasi_; 318 sq. M. in area) and the mainland of Anatolia or Asia Minor. The S. entrance of the straits, beyond _Capo Bianco_ (right; once _Argennon_), is flanked with the islets of _Páspargon_ (lighthouse) and _Panagia_. On the right lies the harbour of _Cheshmeh_, a little town with a mediæval castle. We now enter the harbour of =Kastro=, or _Chios_ (Xenodochion Nea Chios, a good inn; pop. about 14,000, mostly Greeks), the capital of the island, on the E. coast. Once a most important member of the Ionian league of cities, Chios belonged in the middle ages to the Venetians (1204–1345), and then to the Genoese (1346–1566), and only became Turkish under Suleiman the Great (p. 542). The fruitless Greek struggle for independence ended with the massacre of Chios in 1832. The hill-country of Chios is extremely fertile. A valuable export is the gum of the mastic-shrub. We next pass close to the _Goni Islands_, lying in front of the bay of _Lytri_ (_Erythrae_), and the _Spalmatori Islets_ (_Œnussae Insulae_), at the N. end of the straits of Chios. Sail up the _Gulf of Smyrna_, see p. 530. 77. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Athens (_and Constantinople_). 774 M. FROM NAPLES TO ATHENS (steamboat-agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at the Piræus, pp. 494, 495). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 80) from Marseilles every other Thurs. viâ Genoa (Sat.), Naples (Mon.), and Catania (Tues.) to the Piræus in 6 days (fare from Marseilles 180 or 120 marks, from Genoa 168 or 112 marks, from Naples 120 or 84 marks, from Catania 96 or 64 marks).—=2.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (Marseilles, Constantinople, and Beirut line), from Marseilles every second Thurs. viâ Naples (Sat.) to the Piræus in 4 days (fare 225 or 150 fr.); also (Marseilles, Constantinople, and Black Sea line) every second Sat. viâ Kalamata and Canea (p. 415) to the Piræus in 5 days.—=3.= _Società Nazionale_, lines X and XI (Genoa, Constantinople, and Odessa line), from Genoa, Tues. night, viâ Leghorn (p. 143), Naples (Frid.), Palermo (p. 147), Messina, Catania, and Canea (p. 415) to the Piræus in 11 days (fare from Naples 155 fr. 50 c. or 109 fr.). From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to Naples, see RR. 23, 24. From Naples (see R. 27), after half-a-day’s sail, we reach the superb _Straits of Messina_. On the right, at the foot of the _Monti Peloritani_, lie the ruins of =Messina= (p. 156); to the left is _Reggio_ (p. 159); to the S.W. towers _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159). The German and Italian boats steer to the S.S.W. to =Catania= (p. 160). Sailing to the E.S.E., and gradually leaving Ætna behind, we lose sight of land for a whole day. At length, on the left, we sight the _Messenian Peninsula_ of the Peloponnesus, flanked by the _Œnussae Islands_; beyond it, the _Bay of Koronē_, the ancient _Messenian Bay_, runs far inland. We then steer to the E. towards _Cape Taenaron_ or _Matapán_ (p. xxxii), the S. point of the peninsula of _Mani_. To the N.E. looms the bold rocky crest of _Mt. Taygetos_ (7903 ft.), whose top is free from snow in summer only. Beyond Cape Tænaron the _Bay of Marathonisi_, the ancient _Sinus Laconicus_, opens to the N. We next pass between _Cape Maléa_, notorious for its storms, and the island of _Kythera_ (1660 ft.; Ital. _Cerigo_), and turn towards the N. For a short time we see the mountains of _Crete_ (p. 415) to the S.E. The bleak S.E. coast of the Peloponnesus is now gradually left behind, while to the right a few small rocky islands, belonging to the Cyclades (p. 492), come into sight. Off _Hydra_ (1942 ft.; lighthouse), near the peninsula of _Argolis_, opens the _Bay of Ægina_, the ancient _Saronic Gulf_. To the left is the island of _Poros_; in the background rises Mt. Hágios Elias (1748 ft.), the highest hill in _Ægina_. On the right, beyond the islet of _Hagios Geōrgios_ (1050 ft.; lighthouse), the ancient _Belbina_, appears the hilly S. extremity of Attica with _Cape Colonna_ (p. 529). The barren rounded hill in Attica, much foreshortened at first, is _Mt. Hymettos_; straight in front of us is _Mt. Parnes_, forming the N. boundary of the Attic plain. Before us are the ancient _Mt. Ægaleos_ (now _Skaramangá Mts._) and the indented coast of the island of _Salamis_, which appears at both ends to join the mainland. Above Salamis towers the lofty peak of _Geraneia_ in Megaris. A hill jutting into the sea in front of Mt. Ægaleos now becomes visible. This is the _Piraeus Peninsula_ (comp. Map, p. 528). The hill a short way inland is the _Munychia_ (p. 495), and to the right of it lies the shallow bay of _Phálēron_ (p. 528). Between Hymettus and Parnes the gable-shaped _Pentelikon_ appears. We now have a beautiful view of _Athens_; in the centre rises the Acropolis, on the left the monument of Philopappos. The large white building on the right is the royal palace, beyond which rises _Lykabettos_ (p. 528). As we near the Piræus we observe the rocky islet of _Lipsokutáli_ (_Psyttaleia_; lighthouse), lying off the E. tongue of Salamis, and masking the entrance to the straits of Salamis, the scene of the famous battle of 480 B. C. (p. 506). The steamer rounds the headland of _Aktē_ and slowly enters the harbour of the Piræus. =Piræus.=—The COMMISSIONNAIRES of the chief Athens hotels come on board (those of the smaller, only when written for). Arrangements for landing (boat 1 dr., with baggage 2 dr.) and for a carriage to Athens (p. 495) had better be left to them. Heavier baggage is briefly examined at the _Teloníon_, at the S. E. angle of the harbour. STATION of the electric railway to Athens (comp. p. 503), to the N. of the town (opposite the station of the Peloponnesus line). HOTEL. _Hot. & Restaurant Continental_, Karaïskakis Sq., to the N. of the harbour, R. from 2 dr.; but better quarters are to be had in Athens.—CAFÉS in and near the garden to the S. of the Dēmarchía, 3 min. to the E. of Karaïskakis Sq., on the harbour. ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS from the custom-house to the Athens station; from the station to the Zea harbour; also from the station, from the harbour (Karaïskakis Sq.), or from the Rue de Socrate to New Phálēron (p. 528). STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Messageries Maritimes_, Vamvakaris, Rue de Miaulis 30 b; _North German Lloyd_, Roth & Co., Rue de Tsamadú 21; _German Levant_, Frangopulos; _Austrian Lloyd_, S. Calucci, Quai de Tshelebi, to the W. of Karaïskakis Sq.; _Società Nazionale_, A. Vellas; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Mussuris. BRITISH CONSUL, _C. J. Cooke_; vice-consul, _J. Joannidis_. The _Piraeus_, Gr. _Peiraieus_ (pronounced Piræévs; pop. 71,500), the time-honoured seaport of Athens (comp. p. 506), became a mere village after its destruction by Sulla in 86 B. C., and in the middle ages even lost its name, but within the last few decades has developed into a prosperous town. Its trade now exceeds that of Patras. The harbour, the ancient _Kantharos_, admits the largest vessels. Spacious quays, an exchange, a theatre, wide and regular streets, and over a hundred factories have been constructed. Its antiquities are few compared with those of Athens. The chief are parts of the fortifications, such as a wall defended by towers, ascending the peninsula of _Eétioneia_, to the W. of the harbour. It is reached from the station in 8 min. by walking round the shallow N. arm of the harbour (the ‘blind harbour’ of antiquity). On the hill it is pierced by a gateway between two round towers. A broad and easy path ascends the _Munychia Hill_ (280 ft.), to the E. of the town (20 min.), whence we overlook the various basins of the Great Harbour, the round _Zea Bay_ at the S.W. foot of the hill, the _Munychia Harbour_ at the S.E. base, and to the E. of the latter the broad _Phaleron Bay_, where the Athenian ships lay down to the time of the Persian wars. We may return by the Zea Bay, noticing remains of ancient boat-houses at the beginning of the Rue du Serangeion, and regain the station by tramway. FROM THE PIRÆUS TO ATHENS (5 M.) the electric RAILWAY (p. 503) is the quickest conveyance, but as it lies low and runs through cuttings and tunnels near the city it affords little view. New-comers had better take a CARRIAGE. The new route (1½ hr.; fare, with luggage, 8–10 dr.), though longer, is in better condition, and is therefore preferred by the drivers. At first running alongside the railway it reaches _New Phaleron_ (p. 528); it then skirts the bay of Phaleron at some little distance from the shore. Later proceeding inland it follows the broad new _Boulevard Syngrós_, which commands an excellent view of the Acropolis and leads in a straight line as far as the Olympieion (p. 509).—The old route (1¼ hr.; fare, with luggage, 6–7 dr.) follows the ‘Long Walls’ (p. 506) which once connected the Piræus with Athens. On the left is _Mt. Ægaleos_ (p. 494), while on the right appears the bay of Phaleron. We cross the generally dry bed of the _Kephisos_ (p. 505), and then pass the limits of the ancient olive-grove that occupies the plain of the Kephisos. Leaving behind a hill which conceals the Acropolis we at once come in sight of the Theseion, the Areopagus, and the Acropolis. The houses of the city, which we reach at the Dipylon (p. 522), all too soon exclude this splendid view. _Athens_, see p. 502. 78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (_and Constantinople_) viâ Brindisi and Patras. FROM VENICE TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens), _Società Nazionale_ (Line XII, Venice, Brindisi, Patras, and Constantinople), from Venice on Sat. aft. (returning from Piræus Frid. foren.), to Patras in 4½, to the Piræus in 5 days (fare 195 or 134 fr.). FROM TRIESTE TO THE PIRÆUS. =1.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (fast boats to Constantinople) from Trieste on Tues. aft. (returning from Piræus Sun. even.) to Patras in 2½, to the Piræus in 4 days (fare to Patras 159 or 109, to Piræus 220 or 147 fr.). Also Greek-Oriental Line (every Sun. foren.; returning from Piræus Sun. aft.), in 5 days, and Thessalian Line (Frid. aft.; returning from Piræus Frid. or Sat.) in 6½ days.—=2.= _Greek Steamboat Co. Panhellenios_, from Trieste on Frid. foren. (from Piræus Mon. morn.) to Patras in 3, to the Piræus in 5 days. _From Trieste to Patras_, New York Line of the _Austro-Americana_ (p. 425), from Trieste weekly or fortnightly, in 42–46 hrs. (fare 150 or 110 K). Passengers for the Piræus are conveyed through the Corinth canal by the _Achaia Co._, or they may go on by rail (see below). Agents in Venice, see p. 420; at Trieste, p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Corfu, p. 497; at Patras, p. 501; at the Piræus, pp. 494, 495. FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS, 137½ M., railway in 7½–9½ hrs. (fare 25 or 18 dr.); express on Tues. and Frid. in 6–1 ‘wagon de luxe’ 33 dr. 40 l.). As to Greek money, see p. 502. The Italian steamers (comp. p. 427) from Venice touch at _Ancona_, _Bari_, and _Brindisi_. The Lloyd steamers, except those of the Thessalian line, go direct from Trieste to _Brindisi_ (comp. p. 429). Soon after leaving Brindisi we steer to the S.E. To the left of the _Straits of Otranto_ (p. 430) are seen the outlines of _Albania_ (Turkey), with the great rampart of the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (6644 ft.). Farther on, in the foreground, lies the island of Corfu. On the right are the Othonian Islands, _Othoní_, _Eríkusa_, _Mathraki_, and the islet of _Diaplo_. At the S. end of the Acroceraunian Mts. lies _Santi Quaranta_, where the Italian steamers call, the poor seaport for Yánina, which is two day’s ride (59 M.) distant. The scenery of the wide Strait of Corfu (2–4½ M. broad), separating the island from the mainland, is very imposing. To the right towers _Monte San Salvatore_ (p. 500). The town of Corfu, partly hidden at first by the island of Vido, is now revealed. On casting anchor we have on our left the double hump of the Fortezza Vecchia and on the right the dark ramparts of the Fortezza Nuova. * * * * * Corfu. ARRIVAL. Landing or embarking 1½, with heavy baggage, 2 dr. As the boatmen are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion prevails, the traveller had better allow the hotel-agents who come on board to arrange for boat, baggage, and carriage, for which a charge of 3–4 fr. is made in the bill. Passengers who go ashore for a few hours only may bargain to be landed and rowed back for 1½ fr., payable on their return. [Illustration: ISOLA DI CORFÙ] [Illustration: CORFU] HOTELS (tariffs payable in gold, see p. 502). *_Hôt. d’Angleterre & Belle Venise_ (Pl. a), to the S. of the town, high site, with fine views and garden, R. 3–7, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr.; _St. Georges_ (Pl. b), on the Esplanade, similar charges.—Unpretending houses, with restaurants: _Belvedere_, Strada sulle Mura, pens. 7 dr.; the following are in the Greek style: _Orient_, on the Esplanade; _Patras_, Nikephoros Street; _Hôt. d’Alexandrie_, R. 2 fr., and _Hôt. de Constantinople_, R. 3 dr., both near the harbour. CAFÉS in the Esplanade, at the beginning of the double avenue; cup of Turkish coffee 20 l.—RESTAURANTS. _Abbondanza_ (Greek), Nikephoros Street, moderate; _Patras_, _Belvedere_, see above.—BEER. _Dobay_, on the Esplanade; _Gambrinus_, near the Old Theatre (p. 498). BANKS. _Fels & Co._ (Pl. 1), Strada sulle Mura; _Banque Ionienne_, Nikephoros Street, not far from the Esplanade; _Banque Nationale_.—POST OFFICE, adjoining the Sanità, Nikephoros Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, near the Banque Ionienne. STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, _Ellerman Line_, Fels & Co. (see above); _Società Nazionale_ (Pl. 8), G. Topali.—TOURIST AGENCY. _Hamburg-American Line_, Strada sulle Mura.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Barff & Co._ CONSULATES. British (Pl. 3): consul, _G. Raymond_; vice-consul, _P. Papadachi_.—United States (Pl. 7): consular agent, _Ch. E. Hancock_. CARRIAGES. Drives in town or nearer environs 2–3 dr. per hr., as may be agreed upon; short drive usually 1 fr. Carr. obtained at the hotels are better but dearer.—BOATS for excursions may be ordered at the hotels. MOTOR CARS (belonging to the _Société d’Automobiles_): omnibus daily to the N. and S. parts of the island, each person 10 l. per kilomètre; vehicle seated for live 50 l. per kilomètre. THEATRES. _Teatro Grande_, built in 1895 on the model of San Carlo at Naples, near the Porta Reale; Ital. opera in winter; _Summer Theatre_, to the S. of the Ginnasio. SEA BATHS (80 l. to 1 dr.) and plunge-baths, near Punta San Nicolò. ENGLISH CHURCH (_Holy Trinity_), service in the season. _Corfu_, Ital. _Corfù_, Greek _Kérkyra_, the capital of the island of the same name and the seat of archbishops of the Greek and Roman Catholic churches, is one of the wealthiest towns in the Greek dominions (pop. 28,250, incl. 4000 Rom. Cath. and 2700 Jews). The spacious harbour is enlivened by a brisk trade, the chief export being olive-oil. The fortifications constructed by the Venetians, the _Fortezza Vecchia_, picturesquely situated in the sea, on a double rock to the E. of the town, and the _Fortezza Nuova_, on the N.W., are both now unimportant. The narrow streets present a busy scene. The chief languages are Greek and Italian. _Kérkyra._ Lat. _Corcyra_, the largest (245 sq. M.) and most important of the Ionian Islands, was supposed in ancient times to have been _Scheria_, the home of the Phæaci and their king Alkinoos. Having been colonized by the Corinthians at an early period (734 B. C.), it developed into a dangerous rival of its mother-city, thus partly causing the Peloponnesian war. The mediæval name seems to have been derived from ‘Korphus’, as the old fortress on the two rocks was called. From 1386 to 1797 Corfu belonged to Venice, from 1815 to 1863 it was under British sway, after which it was ceded, along with the other Ionian Islands, to the kingdom of Greece. The island (with 93,860 inhab.) possesses hill and plain, bold rocks and charming bays on the coast, abundant water-supply, rich vegetation, and fine old olive forests, which combine to render its scenery highly attractive. The climate is mild and equable in spring and autumn. The good roads made everywhere by the British government add to the comfort and enjoyment of a short stay in the island. On disembarking we cross the courtyard of the Dogana, turn to the left at the small Hôt. de Constantinople, and follow the _Strada sulle Mura_, which skirts the N. side of the town, affording numerous fine views, and reaches the Esplanade near the royal palace. Or we may ascend direct from the Dogana through the _Strada Nikephoros_, the busy main street, in 5 min. to the Esplanade. Before we reach the Esplanade we pass a side-street on the left with the church of _Santo Spiridione_, and another on the right with the _Teatro Vecchio_, built by the Venetians, now the municipio. The ESPLANADE, or _Spianata_, lies between the town and the old fortress. On the W. side it is bounded by handsome houses with arcades on the groundfloor. At the N. end rises the— =Royal Palace=, built in grey Malta stone, at the beginning of the British period, for the Lord High Commissioner, and containing the throne-room and the hall of the former Ionian senate. The entrance is by the W. side-door (gratuity). A marble staircase ascends to the first floor. At the top is an antique lion couchant.—In front of the palace is a _Statue of Sir Frederick Adam_, a much respected Lord High Commissioner of the islands (1823–32). At the E. end of the double avenue intersecting the Esplanade rises a statue of _Count von der Schulenburg_, who conducted the defence of Corfu against the Turks in 1716, erected by the republic of Venice. Beyond it a bridge crosses a strait to the— *=Fortezza Vecchia= (adm. on application), which rises on the steep twin-rocks in terraces. The dilapidated buildings are now used as barracks and a military hospital. At the foot of the height is the garrison-church built by the British. The passage opposite the chief entrance gives access to the commandant’s house. We ascend hence to the left, pass through a long vaulted passage, leading straight on to the ramparts, which are overgrown with vegetation, and lastly mount a few steps to the platform on the W. rock (230 ft.; with signalling station and lighthouse). The custodian lends a telescope (25 l.). We enjoy here a superb **View of the town and of the island, from Monte San Salvatore and Capo Cassopetto on the N. to Capo Bianco on the S.; to the E. is Epirus in Turkey, with its lofty mountains. A broad street descends from the S. end of the Esplanade to the VIALE DELL’ IMPERATRICE ELISABETTA, formerly _Strada Marina_, skirting the shore below the new quarter of the town and now a favourite promenade in the evening. At the beginning of it, on the right, is the _Casino_, with reading and concert rooms. Turning to the right after 4 min., and then to the left, we come to the _Museum_, containing ancient sculptures and tomb-inscriptions. Near it is the round _Tomb of Menecrates_, resembling a well (7th or 6th cent. B.C.). Above is the ruined _Fort of San Salvatore_ (prison). The boulevard sweeps round the suburb of =Kastrades= or _Garitza_ first to the S. and then to the E. to the Molo protecting the bay. At a bend, short of the molo, we follow the Viale Imperatore Guglielmo Secondo to the right (S.). After 7 min., opposite the apse of the old church of _Santa Corcyra_, we ascend a road to the left. A gate on the left is the entrance to the— *=Royal Villa of Monrepos= (_Villa Reale_; free on Sun. and Thurs. aft.). The park affords fine views of the town and castle. The Viale Imperatore Guglielmo skirts the W. slope of the hilly peninsula which stretches to the S., between _Lake Kalikiópulo_ and the sea. Here probably lay the ancient city, with the bay of Kastrades as its trading harbour, while the Lake of Kalikiopulo, now choked with mud, seems to have been the _Portus Hyllaeicus_, used as a station for vessels of war. The road is bordered with rose and orange gardens, and farther on with beautiful olive-groves. In 25 min. (or from the Esplanade in ¾ hr.) we reach a round open space, called the *=Canone=, or _One-gun Battery_ (carr. 5–6 fr.), which commands a superb view of the E. coast of the island. Opposite, at the entrance to the ancient Hyllæan harbour, lies the _Scoglio di Ulisse_ (‘cliff of Ulysses’), or _Pontikonisi_ (‘mouse island’), a cypress-planted islet with a chapel and parsonage, now owned by an enterprising German. The Greeks took this to be the ship of the Phæacians which had brought Odysseus to Ithaca, and on its way back was turned into stone by the angry Poseidon. The S.W. shore of the Lake of Kalikiopulo, where a brook named _Kressida_ enters the lake, is pointed out as the place where Odysseus was cast ashore and met the princess Nausicaa. The charming drive to _Gasturi_ and _Benizze_ (7½ M.) and back takes 3–4 hrs. (carr. 10–15 dr.; as far as the Achilleion, there and back 2½ hrs., 8–10 dr.). We leave the town by the former W. gate, or _Porta Reale_ and pass through the suburb of _San Rocco_. The road runs a little to the W. of Lake Kalikiopulo and ascends in windings to (5 M.) =Gasturi= (Achilleion, pens. 7 dr.). About ½ M. farther, a little to the left, is the villa *=Achilleion= (adm. to the building and the grounds 11–3, 2 dr.), built in 1890–1 for Empress Elizabeth of Austria (d. 1898), in the Italian Renaissance style, and purchased by the German emperor in 1907. The back of the villa is adjoined by a peristyle and three terraces adorned with statues. On the road, just beyond the villa, is the _Restaurant Bella Vista_. We now descend (short-cuts for walkers) to the (2 M.) fishing-village of _Benizze_, where delicious oranges grow, and where there are remains of a Roman villa (boat to Corfu, 5 dr.) Another delightful excursion is to _Santi Deca_ (carr. 10–15 dr.; there and back 5–6 hrs.). About ¾ M. short of Gasturi the road diverges to the right from the Benizze road. The drive to the village of _Hagi Deka_ or _Santi Deca_ (‘ten saints’; 676 ft.) takes 1¼ hr. (the walk 2 hrs.). Thence we ascend (guide) the (1 hr.) double-peaked =Monte Santi Deca= (1862 ft.), where we have a superb view, notably of the Albanian coast. A narrow path then descends, the last part through olive-groves, to (½ hr.) _Apano-Garuna_, and proceeds thence to the N. to (¼ hr.) the pass of _San Teódoro_ or _Hagios Theódoros_ (788 ft.), where the carriage quitted at Santi Deca may be ordered to meet us. The drive back to Corfu viâ _Kamára_ takes 1½ hr. The monastery of =Palæokastrizza= (‘old castle’), on the W. coast, about 15 M. to the N.W., is a delightful point of view (carr. there and back 20–25 dr., in 6 hrs., excl. stops). A road diverging to the right about halfway, 1½ M. beyond the picturesque bay of _Govino_, crosses the _Pheleka_ and leads over the fine _San Pantaleone Pass_ and through hill scenery to the N. coast. Far to the right, on the E. coast, rises _Monte San Salvatore_ (Greek _Pantokrator_; 2998 ft.; ascended with guide in 3 hrs. from _Spartilla_; carr. from Corfu to Spartilla viâ Giovino, Ipso, and Pyrgi, in 2½ hrs., about 20 dr.). See also _Baedeker’s Greece_. * * * * * As the STEAMER leaves Corfu the picturesque fortress remains long in view. The highest hill on the right is _Monte Santi Deca_ (see p. 499). The strait widens. To the left is the mouth of the _Kalamas_; beyond it tower the Albanian Mts.; on our right is _Cape Lévkimo_. On the left, off _Kavo Aspro_ or _Capo Bianco_, the S. point of Corfu, lie the small _Sybota Islands_, where, in 432 B. C., was fought the great naval battle between the Corinthians and the Corcyræans, supported by the Athenians, which marked the outbreak of the Peloponnesian war. In 2½–3 hrs., after passing the rocky islets of _Paxos_ and _Antipaxos_, we reach the open Ionian Sea. On the mainland is seen the little town of _Parga_. We now leave in the distance the Epirote coast, where, off Actium, at the mouth of the Ambracian bay, Octavian’s naval victory over Antony in 31 B.C. gave him the sole supremacy. On the left the island of _Levkás_ (Ital. _Santa Maura_) remains long in sight; its S.W. headland, _Kavo Dukato_, 5 M. long, ends in the _Leucadian Rock_, which once bore a temple of Apollo. Sappho, who loved the beautiful Phaon, is said to have thrown herself from this rock, a leap which was supposed to cure unrequited love. We round the cape and enter the strait between Levkás and _Kephallēnía_ (Ital. _Cefalonia_). Steering to the S.E., past the E. side of _Ithaca_, we have a good view of its beautiful mountain with a deep depression in the middle. At the entrance to the bay of Patras lie the _Oxia Islands_. Here in 1571 was fought the naval battle of Lépanto, where Don John of Austria annihilated the Turkish fleet. Nearing _Cape Kalógria_, the N.W. point of the Peloponnesus, we observe to the N., beyond a narrow strip of coast and a large lagoon, the little town of _Misolonghi_ or _Mesolóngion_, where Byron died in 1824. Beyond it rises _Mt. Zygós_ (3107 ft.), the last outpost, to the W., of the high Ætolian range. Next, on the N. shore also, we sight the finely-shaped _Varássova_ (3007 ft.) and _Klókova_ (3415 ft.). In the Peloponnesus, to the S., tower the _Olonos Mts._ (7300 ft.) and the _Voïdiá_ (6322 ft.). Patras, completely surrounded with currant-plantations, becomes more and more distinctly visible. =Patras.=—ARRIVAL. The steamer anchors in the harbour near the Molo San Nicolò (examination of luggage at the railway-station, see below). Landing or embarkation 1, with baggage 2 dr.; but the boatmen usually try to extort far more. Hotel-boat 2½ dr.—STATION, to the N.E. of the harbour, 5 min. from the landing-place. HOTELS (charges should be agreed upon beforehand) all near the landing-place. _Hôt. d’Angleterre_, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 5, pens. 8–12½ fr., well spoken of; _Gr.-Hôt. de Patras_, R. 4, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4, pens. 12½ fr.; between these, _New & Tourist Hotel_, St. Andreas Street, R. 2½ fr., B. 70 c., déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 8 fr., well spoken of.—CAFÉS-RESTAURANTS at the first two hotels. POST OFFICE, St. Nicholas Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, in the first cross-street to the right as we come from the harbour. CAB. Drive in town 1 dr.—ELECTRIC TRAMWAY in St. Andreas Street, parallel with the quay, and to the upper town. STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, St. Andreas Street, next the New Hotel; _Austro-Americana_, _Morphy & Son_; _Panhellēnios_, St. Andreas St., a little to the W. of the harbour; _Società Nazionale_, St. Andreas St. CONSULATES. British (next Gr.-Hôt. de Patras): consul, _F. B. Wood_; vice-consul, _G. W. Crowe_.—United States (opposite the Gr.-Hôt. de Patras): consul, _A. B. Cooke_; vice-consul, _H. J. Woodley_. ENGLISH CHURCH (_St. Andrew’s_), near the station (see above); service at 11 a.m. _Patras_, the third town of Greece (pop. 37,700), is surpassed in its trade by the Piræus only. Currants, the staple produce of the Peloponnesus, and wine are the chief exports. The town was destroyed by the Turks in 1821, and after the war of independence was rebuilt with broad and regular streets bordered with arcades. _Patrae_ first rose to importance under Augustus and afterwards gained great wealth by its trade. In 1205 the Franks made it their base for the conquest of the Peloponnesus (Morea). Since the 15th cent. it has belonged successively to the Venetians, the Pope, the Byzantines, and the Turks, and since 1833 to the kingdom of Greece. The main street is that of _Hagios Nikólaos_ (St. Nicholas), leading to the S.E. from the quay. The third cross-street to the right leads to the _Platia Hagios Geórgios_, containing the theatre and law-courts. The second side-street to the left leads to another square with the _High School_, which contains a few ancient sculptures. The first street to the N.E. running parallel with the Hagios Nikólaos Street leads to the _Castle_, once Venetian, then Turkish (now barracks and prison), which affords a fine view of the gulf. Excursion to _Olympia_ by railway (5 hrs.), see _Baedeker’s Greece_. The RAILWAY FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS (137½ M., in 6½–9½ hrs.; see p. 496) is preferable to the steamers, as the traveller thus gains several clear hours for Athens. The Corinth Canal is used by the Società Nazionale and Achaia Co. only. The voyage round the Peloponnesus to the Piræus (360 M.) takes more than a day. The train skirts the narrow S. margin of the *_Gulf of Corinth_, the grand mountains of which recall those of the Norwegian fiords. Between the ruined fortresses of _Rhion_ and _Antirrhion_, a little way from Patras, the gulf narrows to 1¼ M. and soon, near _Naupaktos_, contracts again. 25 M. _Ægion_ (Buffet); 33 M. _Diakophto_, whence a rack-and-pinion line mounts the hills inland. Then, above two deep bays on the N. bank, towers Mt. Parnassus. At the E. end of the gulf lies (81 M.) _Corinth_ (halt of ¼ hr.; Buffet, déj. 4 dr.). In the isthmus of Corinth the train crosses the Corinth Canal (3¾ M. long, 25 yds. wide, 26 ft. deep) by a bridge 170 ft. high, and then skirts the N. bank of the _Saronic Gulf_ (p. 494). On the right the eye ranges as far as the mountains of the Argolis peninsula and Ægina. Beyond (108 M.) _Megara_ we near the N. coast of Salamis. Beyond (120½ M.) _Eleusis_ the train turns inland and passes through the depression between (r.) Mt. Ægaleos (p. 494) and (l.) Mt. Parnes into the Attic plain. Arrival at (137½ M.) _Athens_, Peloponnesian Station, see below (hotel-agents in waiting; carr. 2 dr.). * * * * * Most STEAMERS (see p. 501) set out in a W. direction from the Gulf of Patras, holding straight out to Kephallenia and keeping distant Ithaca to the right. They then steer to the S. between the promontory of _Chelonatas_, the W. point of the Peloponnesus, and the island of _Zante_ or _Zakynthos_. Beyond the cape and the little harbour-town of _Katakolo_, the calling-place for _Pyrgos_ and _Olympia_ (p. 501), the coast recedes and forms the sweeping curve of the _Gulf of Kyparissia_; behind rise the heights of the _Lykaeon_ (4659 ft.). Later on we pass the _Strophades_ on the right. At the extremity of the Gulf of Kyparissia the _Ægaleon_ (4003 ft.) marks the beginning of the Messenian Peninsula. The steamers double the S. point and from here to the Piræus their course is the same as that of the Naples boats (see pp. 493, 494). 79. Athens.[8] STATIONS. _Peloponnesian_ (Pl. B, 1), for Patras, etc., on the N.W. side of the town.—_Piraeus Railway_, see p. 503.—Tickets also at the tourist-agencies, see 504. Footnote 8: MONEY. Greece belongs to the Latin Monetary Convention. The franc is called a _drachmē_ (dr.; pl. drachmǽs), the centime _leptón_ (l.; pl. leptá). The currency is chiefly paper (notes of 1, 2, and 5 dr.), and the chief banks issue also their own notes (for 10, 25, 100, 500 dr., etc.). In nickel there are coins of 5 l. (_pendára_, a sou or soldo), 10 l. (_dekára_), and 20 l.; in copper, 1, 2, 5, and 10 lepta. The only silver coins of full value are the 5 fr. pieces. It is safest to decline all foreign silver. The present exchange (1911) for the English pound is about 25 paper dr., for the gold 20 fr. piece 20 dr. [Illustration: ATHÈNES] =Hotels.= At most of the hotels it is usual to arrange for a fixed charge per day; at the chief English and French are spoken; charges mostly in gold, that is, in francs instead of drachmæ; charges higher during the Olympic games. *HÔT. DE LA GRANDE-BRETAGNE (Pl. b; F, 5), Place de la Constitution, opposite the Palace, R. from 7½, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 6, pens. 17½–30 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE (Pl. a; F, 5), Place de la Constitution, cor. of the Rue d’Hermès, pens. 17½–25 fr.; *PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; E, 4), Rue du Stade 18, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12 fr.; these three are of the first class.—*TOURIST HOTEL (Pl. t; E, 5), cor. of the Rue d’Hermès and Rue de la Boulé, R. 3–8, B. 1, déj. 4½, D. 5, pens. 10–15 fr.; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; F, 5), Place de la Constitution, cor. of Rue du Stade, R. 3–6, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 4½, pens. 8–12 fr.; HÔT. DES ETRANGERS & SPLENDID (Pl. c; F, 6), Place de la Constitution, cor. of Rue des Philhellènes, R. 5–7, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 10–15 fr.; *HÔT. DE LA MINERVE (Pl. g; F, 5), Rue du Stade 5, near Place de la Constitution, pens. from 12 fr., also R. from 4 dr. out of the season; *HÔT. HERMÈS (Pl. s; E, 3), Boulevard de l’Université 46, pens. from 10 fr., also R. without board from 3 fr., B. 1 fr. 20 c., déj. 3½, D. 4½ fr.; *HÔT. D’ATHÈNES (Pl. f; E, 4), cor. of Rue du Stade and Rue de Korais, R. 3–6 dr., B. 1 dr. 20 l., déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 10–14 dr., or less for some stay, R. alone, out of season, from 3 dr.; these three are good second-class inns in the Italian style, with restaurants; HÔT. ROYAL (Pl. r; F, 5), Rue du Stade 9, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 10–12 fr.; HÔT.-PENS. ST. GEORGES (Pl. h; E, F, 5), Rue du Stade, beside the Parliament House, R. 3–5, B. 1, déj. 3½, D. 4, pens. 8–15 fr.; *HÔT. IMPÉRIAL (Pl. i; F, 5), Rue Karageorgevitch, R. 2–10, pens. 8–12 fr.; HÔT. NATIONAL (Pl. q; E, 4), Rue du Stade 30, R. (from 3 dr.) and B. (1½ dr.) only, good.—In the warm season a mosquito-curtain (kunupiera) should be asked for. =Pensions=, recommended for a stay of some time. _Maison Merlin_ (Pl. G, 5), cor. of the Rues de Kanári and de Sekéri; _Pens. MacTaggart_, Rue du Stade 12, opposite the Parliament, pens. from 8 fr.; both English. =Restaurants.= At the _Hôtels de la Minerve_, _Hermès_, and _d’ Athènes_, see above; also good, in the Rue du Stade: No. 6, _Averof_, with garden; No. 24, _Cité_, with garden; at corner of the Rue de Patisia, _Kapsēs_; in Rue de Thémistocle, _Sintrivanēs_. French usually understood. =Cafés.= _Zacharátos_, Place de la Constitution, corner of the Rue du Stade (music on summer evenings); _Zacharátos_, Place Omónia, N. side; at the _Zappion_ (p. 508), where there is always a cool sea-breeze.—TEA ROOMS. _Khrysákis_, Place de la Constitution. =Wine.= _Achaia Wine Co._, Rue de Niké 1 (Pl. E, 5, 6).—BARS. _Papagiannakis_, Rue du Stade 40; _Apotsos_, Rue du Stade 9; _Skekos_, Rue Karageorgevitch (Greek beer 30 l. per glass). The =Water= of the Aqueduct (p. 528) is, especially in the hot months, not above reproach. The hotels and restaurants supply good water from the _Marusi_ spring. The mineral waters of _Sáriza_ and _Lutraki_ cost about 25 l. per half-bottle. =Cabs.= To or from Peloponnesian Station 2 dr.; short drive in town 1 dr., longer 1½ dr.; to the Acropolis 2 dr.; to the Piræus with luggage 6–10 dr.; drives in town and environs 20–30 dr. per day; per hr. 3, afternoon 4 dr. (with one horse cheaper). Agreement advisable. =Tramways= (numbered; fare 10–15, transfer 15 l.; comp. Plan). The chief lines are: =1.= From _Academy_ (Pl. F, 4) viâ Place de la Constitution, Amalia St., Rue de Phalère (Pl. D, 8), Tsitsiphiés (on the coast), and then alternately to the left to _Old Phálēron_ and to the right to _New Phálēron_; fare 25 l.—From PLACE OMÓNIA: =2.= viâ Rue du Stade, Place de la Constitution (Pl. F, 5, 6), and Rue des Philhellènes to the _English Church_ (p. 504); =3.= viâ the National Museum to _Patisia_ (comp. Pl. E, 1); =4.= viâ the Rue du Pirée, Dipylon, Theseion Station (Pl. B, 5), Monasteraki Station, and the Rue d’Athéna to _Place Omónia_; =5.= viâ the Rue Constantin to _Peloponnesian Station_ (Pl. B, 1).—=12.= From _Place de la Constitution_ (Pl. F, 5, 6) viâ the Rue des Philhellènes and Boulevard Olga (Pl. F, G, 7, 8) to the _Stadion_ (Pl. G, H, 8).—=16.= From the _Academy_ (Pl. F, 4) to the _Acropolis_. =Electric Railway= to _New Phálēron_ and the _Piraeus_ every ¼ hr., in 18 min. (fare 65 or 45 l., return 1 dr. 15 or 80 l.; to Phaleron 40 or 30, return 75 or 55 l.). Three stations in Athens: _Omónia_ (Pl. D, 3), _Monastēráki_ (Pl. C, 5), and _Theseion_ (Pl. B, 5); fare between these 5–10 l.; the ticket-clerks speak French. =Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Place de la Constitution, corner of Rue d’Hermès; _Ghiolman Bros._, _T. D. Ralli_, both same Place.—For steamboat-agents at the Piræus, see p. 495. =Banks= (9–12 and 3–5; in summer, forenoon only). _Banque Nationale_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue d’Eole; _Banque d’Orient_ (Pl. D, 3, 4), Rue de Sophocle; _Banque d’Athènes_ (Pl. E, 4), Rue du Stade 32; _Banque Ionienne_ (Pl. E, 4), same street, No. 14. =Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. D, 3), opposite Banque Nationale. Letter under 15 grammes within Postal Union 25 l., in Greece 20, in Athens 10 l.; registration 25 l.; deltarion or post-card, 10 or 5 l. =Theatres= (Nov. to May). _Royal National_ (Pl. C, 2), Rue Constantin; _Théâtre Municipal_ (Pl. D, 3). Several summer-theatres.—=Bands= play every summer evening in the Place de la Constitution, at the Záppion (p. 508), and at New Phaleron (p. 528). Military band, Place de la Constitution, Sun. and Thurs. afternoons. =Photographs.= _Barth & Eleutheroudakis_, booksellers, Place de la Constitution (Alinari’s and Boissonnas’s photographs, etc.); _Rhomaïdēs_ (Pinacothèque Hellénique), same square; _Simiriotēs_, Rue des Philhellènes 2.—REQUISITES: _Tavanakēs & Georgantopulos_, Rue d’Hermès 12; _Pestarini_, Rue du Stade 2; _Ragnio_, Rue du Stade, opposite the Parliament. =Legations and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN: Minister, _Sir Francis E. H. Elliot_, Rue de Dragatsani 8 (Pl. E, 4). Consul, _T. Cornish_.—UNITED STATES: Minister, _G. H. Moses_, Rue Sina 16. Consul-General, _W. H. Gale_, Rue Regilles 6; vice-consul, _B. Melissinos_. =English Church= (_St. Paul’s_; Pl. F, 6, 7), Rue des Philhellènes, corner of Palace Garden; chaplain, _W. A. Gardner_, Rue du Lycée 1. Services at 8 and 10.30 a.m., and 6 p.m. =Scientific Institutions=, all under supervision of the _General Ephoros_ or director _Dr. P. Kavvadias_; office in the Ministère des Cultes, Rue d’Hermès. The _Greek Archaeological Society_, Rue de l’Université 20 (Pl. F, 4), is the central authority for antiquarian research in Greece.—_British School of Athens_ (Pl. I, 4), Rue de Speusippe; _American School of Classical Studies_, same street; also French, German, and Austrian institutes. _National Library_ (Pl. E, 3); open 19–2, 3–5, and 8–11. =Collections.= _Acropolis Museum_ (p. 519) and _National Archaeological Museum_ (p. 526), on week-days from 9 (Dec. and Jan. 10) to 12, and from 3 (Oct.-March from 2, June-Aug. from 4) till sunset. On Sun. and holidays the National Museum is open 10–12, and the Acropolis Museum in the afternoon only. Adm. free (sticks and umbrellas 20 l.).—_Numismatic Museum_ (p. 525), Wed. and Sat. 9 (or 10)–12 and 3–6, free.—_Historical and Ethnographical Museum_ (p. 526), daily except on holidays, 2–5, adm. 50 l. =Plan of Visit.= THREE DAYS: 1st. *_Acropolis_ (p. 512), *_Acropolis Museum_ (p. 519); afternoon, _Lykabettos_ (p. 528).—2nd. *_National Museum_ (p. 526); afternoon, _Stadion_ (p. 509), _Olympieion_ (p. 509), _Monument of Lysikrates_ (p. 510), _Theatre of Dionysos_ (p. 510), *_Odeion_ (p. 511), _Areopagus_ (p. 512), _Acropolis_ by sunset.—3rd. _Boul. de l’Université_ (p. 525), region to the _N. of the Acropolis_ (pp. 520 _et seq._); afternoon, *_Theseion_ (p. 521), *_Dipylon_ (p. 522), _Hill of the Pnyx_, _Tomb of Philopappos_ (p. 524). If 1½ DAY only be available we first drive to the _Acropolis_ (p. 512), to which we devote 2 hrs.; then visit the _Odeion_ (p. 511), the _Theatre of Dionysos_ (p. 510), the _Monument of Lysikrates_ (p. 510), the _Olympieion_ (p. 509) with _Hadrian’s Arch_ (p. 508), and the _Stadion_ (p. 509); we then drive past the _Tower of the Winds_ (p. 520), the _Market Gate_ (p. 521), and _Hadrian’s Stoa_ (p. 520) to the _Theseion_ (p. 521), and if possible also to the ancient _Cemetery outside the Dipylon_ (p. 523). Lastly, in half-a-day, we may drive through the _Boul. de l’Université_ (p. 525), glance at the chief modern buildings, and visit the _National Museum_ (p. 526). _Athens_ (130–492 ft.; pop. 167,500), modern Greek _Athénai_, lies 3¾ M. from the _Saronic Gulf_, in the great Attic plain, which is closed on the W. by _Ægaleos_ and _Parnes_ and on the E. by _Hymettos_ and _Pentelikon_. The city is bounded on the S.E. by the _Ilissos_ and on the W. by the _Kephisos_. The valleys of these streams are separated by the _Turkovuni_ hills, whose S. spur, the _Lykabettos_, rises abruptly above Athens on the E. A broad saddle separates the latter from the rock of the _Acropolis_ and a group of hills farther to the W.; these include the _Philopappos_ or _Museion_, the _Pnyx_, and the _Nymphs’_ hills, and slope gently down to the sea. The Athens of antiquity circled round the Acropolis and included the hills on its S.W. and W. sides (see Plan, where traces of ancient walls and the probable direction of the streets are indicated). The modern city extends to the N. of the Acropolis, far towards the plain of the Kephisos. Down to 1834 Athens was a poor village. Now, as the capital of the kingdom of Hellas, it has developed into one of the finest cities of the E. Mediterranean, and is quite European in character. The main street is the _Rue du Stade_, connecting the _Syntagma Square_ (Place de la Constitution; Pl. F, 5, 6) with the _Omónia Square_ (Place de la Concorde; Pl. D, 2, 3). This street and the broad E. end of the Rue d’Hermès (see below) contain the principal shops. The Syntagma Square forms the centre of traffic. Parallel with the Rue du Stade runs the _Boul. de l’Université_ (_Panepistēmion_), in which the chief public buildings are situated. This new E. quarter, known as _Neapolis_, is adjoined, to the W. of the Rue du Stade, by the older business quarter, the main arteries of which are the _Rue d’Hermès_ (Pl. B-E, 5; p. 520), running to the W. from the Syntagma Square, and the _Rue d’Athéna_ (Pl. D, 3–5), running from the Place de la Concorde to the S. and intersecting the Rue d’Hermès at right angles. Parallel to the latter is the _Rue d’Eole_ (p. 520), which leads to the N., past the National Museum, to Patisia, and is prolonged to the S. to the Tower of the Winds at the foot of the Acropolis. The Piræus is the chief seat of industry and the wholesale trade. HISTORY. The Athenians prided themselves on being the aboriginal inhabitants of the country, whose earliest kings are said to have been Cecrops, builder of the Acropolis, Erechtheus, Pandion, and Ægeus. Research, however, attributes the earliest settlement on the Acropolis to the _Pelasgians_, afterwards expelled by Ionian invaders. _Theseus_, the fifth king, is regarded as the actual founder of Athens. To him Thucydides assigns the Synœkismos (in 1259 B.C., it is said) or subordination of all the Attic communities to Athens as their capital. Originally consisting of the Acropolis only, the city gradually extended in all directions. After the self-sacrifice of Kodros (1068 B.C.) the kings were succeeded by _Archons_, first of the house of Kodros and afterwards elected from the ranks of the Eupatridæ (landed nobles). Internal dissensions and the capricious rule of this aristocratic oligarchy led at the end of the 7th cent. to the codification of the existing law of Athens by _Drakon_, a measure succeeded in 594 B.C. by the democratic reforms of _Solon_. Eligibility for the highest offices was henceforth to depend, not on birth, but on the possession of property and the payment of taxes (‘timocracy’). The judges were to be chosen by lot, and a council (Boulē) of 400 members (Bouleutæ) was placed over the archons as the supreme governing body. In 561 B.C., however, while Solon was still alive, _Peisistratos_, an ambitious but humane man and a patron of art, succeeded in usurping the position of tyrant. He and his sons _Hippias_ and _Hipparchos_ brilliantly developed the city. Roads were made to the various ‘demoi’ or communities of Attica, and a copious supply of water was brought by a subterranean conduit from Hymettos. The Olympieion was begun, the ancient temple of Athena on the Acropolis, the ‘hekatompedon’, was enclosed with a colonnade, and other large buildings were erected. All this splendour, however, did not compensate for the want of a free constitution; in 514 Hipparchos was assassinated by Harmodios and Aristogeiton and in 510 Hippias was banished with the aid of the Spartans. After further democratic reforms, and after various wars with adjoining states, which led to the development of the Athenian fleet, the little Attic state obtained the leadership of the whole nation in the Persian wars. In order to punish Athens for supporting the revolt of the Greek towns in Asia Minor (498), _Darius I._, king of Persia, sent an army of over 200,000 men with a huge fleet, under _Datis_ and _Artaphernes_, across the Ægean Sea in 490. Contrary to all expectation the Athenians under _Miltiades_, assisted by the Platæans only, defeated the immense Persian army on the plains of Marathon. Even more glorious, and still further confirming the hegemony of Athens, was the result of the campaign of _Xerxes_ against Greece in 480. After the heroic resistance of Leonidas and his Spartans at Thermopylæ had been overcome by the slaughter of the devoted band the whole of the huge army and armament of the Great King bore down upon Attica to avenge the defeat of Marathon. The Athenians took to their ships. The city was occupied by the Persians, the Acropolis captured, and the temples burned down. But the decisive naval victory won at Salamis (480), and due to the unflinching courage and pertinacity of _Themistokles_, broke the power of the Persians. The citizens had scarcely re-entered Athens when they were again compelled to retire before the army of _Mardonios_, but their great victory at Platæa in 479 finally relieved them from the menace of a Persian yoke. Having taken the most glorious part in these terrible struggles Athens now became the natural leader of the Greeks in the war of retaliation. In 474 this leadership found expression in the foundation of the Attic and Delian naval league. The zenith of the Athenian power coincided with the rebuilding of the city, which progressed rapidly in spite of the opposition of the Spartans. The fortification both of the city and its harbour, which the genius of Themistokles had removed to the Piræus, was taken in hand with special vigour, and in 460–445 the ‘Long Walls’ were erected, stretching from the Piræus and from Phaleron to Athens itself. Next, under the rule of _Perikles_, arose the magnificent buildings on the Acropolis. A colossal statue of Athena Promachos in gold and ivory, by Phidias, was erected out of the Persian booty in 438, when the cella of the great Parthenon also was probably completed. In 437–432 were erected the stately Propylaea, and lastly the Erechtheion, begun probably soon after the peace of Nikias (421) but not completed till 407. The Athenian democracy had attained its fullest development and its widest sway when the long-standing antagonism of Sparta led to open war between the rival states in 431. In the second year of the war Athens was visited by a terrible plague, which carried off, among many others, Perikles, the only man of genius powerful enough to control the democracy, the deterioration of which may be dated from his death. After many vicissitudes, including the disastrous campaign in Sicily undertaken by the advice of _Alkibiades_ (comp. p. 163), the Peloponnesian war ended in 404 with the utter humiliation of Athens. The fortifications of the city and the Piræus had to be demolished, the fleet to be given up, and an oligarchic government, that of the ‘Thirty Tyrants’, to be endured at the bidding of Sparta. In 403 _Thrasyboulos_ restored the democracy; in 393 _Konon_ won a naval victory over the Spartans at Knidos, and rebuilt the Long Walls; but all this was but a brief and feeble reflex of the ancient glory of the state. In vain _Demosthenes_ exhorted his fellow-citizens to vigorous resistance against _Philip of Macedon_; when they at last roused themselves it was too late. In 338 Greek independence received its death-blow on the battle-field of Chæronea. Although Athens never again recovered her political importance her material prosperity survived almost unimpaired for several centuries more. In the year of the battle of Chæronea began the judicious financial administration of the orator _Lykourgos_, who completed the theatre previously begun on the S.E. slope of the Acropolis, built the Stadion, and filled the arsenals and harbour of the Piræus with military stores and with ships. After a fruitless revolt in 322 (the ‘Lamian War’) Athens was garrisoned with Macedonian troops. Yet Athens continued to live and thrive on the intellectual heritage stored up within her walls ever since the days of the Persian and Peloponnesian wars. As the home of the greatest poets of antiquity, as the seat of the far-famed schools of philosophy and rhetoric founded by Plato, Aristotle, and Zeno, and as a great centre of art and architecture, she still had many visitors and admirers. Foreign patrons lavished gifts upon her or erected sumptuous buildings in the city. To Ptolemy Philadelphos of Egypt (281–246) she owed a gymnasion with a library, to the Pergamenian kings handsome colonnades, and to the Syrian king Antiochos IV. Epiphanes (175–164) the Olympieion. The dominion of Macedonia was followed by that of Rome, in spite of the nominal declaration of the independence of Greece made by the consul Flamininus in 196 B.C. After the overthrow of the Achæan League, of which Athens was a member, and the destruction of Corinth in 146 Greece and Macedonia were formed into a Roman province. Athens had to pay heavily for the ill-considered help it afforded Mithridates, King of Pontus, who chose Greece as the battle-field on which to contest with Rome the sovereignty of Asia. The city was stormed and sacked by _Sulla_ in 86 B.C., and the fortifications of the Piræus were finally demolished. The city was, however, favoured by Cæsar and the Roman emperors. The chief buildings of this period are the Tower of the Winds, the Market Gate owing its origin to donations made by Cæsar and Augustus, the statue of Agrippa, the round temple of Roma and Augustus, the new marble steps of the Propylæa, and the monument of Philopappos. A new period in the history of art was inaugurated by _Hadrian_ (A.D. 117–38), the friend of Greece, to whom countless statues were erected under the titles of the Olympian, the Founder, the Liberator. A whole quarter of the city, to the S.E. of the castle, was called after him, as may still be read on Hadrian’s Arch. In this quarter rose the temple of Zeus completed by him. In the old town he founded a library, a gymnasion, and a pantheon, and Athens is still supplied with water by his aqueduct. At the same period _Herodes Atticus_ (101–77), a rich citizen, built the odeion named after him. Lastly _Marcus Aurelius_ (161–80), from whose time dates the description of the city by Pausanias, summoned new teachers to the Athenian school of philosophy. From that period begins the gradual stagnation and decay of the city. In 267 Athens was captured by the Heruli and Goths. In 395 and 396 _Alaric_ with his Visigoths appeared before its gates, but spared it on payment of tribute. From the 5th cent. onwards numerous works of art were removed from Athens to Constantinople, as had been partly done by Constantine himself, to grace the buildings of New Rome. In 529 _Justinian_ gave the death-blow to the intellectual life of Athens by closing the schools of philosophy. Athens sank to the position of a Byzantine provincial town. In 1019 _Basil II._ held a triumphal festival in the Parthenon, which had long been used as a church. In 1040 the Northmen under Harald Haardraade took the Piræus by storm. After the conquest of Constantinople by the _Latin Crusaders_ in 1204 (p. 542) Athens fell into the hands of Frankish nobles known as dukes after 1258. At length, in 1456, after a vigorous defence, Athens was captured by the _Turks_, and thenceforth belonged to the pashalik of Negroponte (Eubœa). But two events in the next three centuries and a half deserve mention; it was attacked by the Venetians in 1466 and it was captured and occupied for a short time by their general Francesco Morosini in 1687. On the latter occasion the Parthenon, hitherto uninjured, was blown up, while the Propylæa had already been destroyed by an earlier explosion (comp. p. 513). Athens then fell into complete oblivion and had to be rediscovered by the explorers and scholars of the 19th century. The Greeks began their war of independence in 1821, and in 1822 captured the Acropolis of Athens. The Turks, however, stormed the town in 1826, and in 1827 took the Acropolis also after a brave resistance. The whole of Hellas thus fell again under the Turkish yoke. But the Great Powers now intervened. In 1833 the Acropolis was evacuated by the Turks, and entered by the Bavarian troops of the new king, _Otho_. In 1834 Athens was made the capital of the new kingdom, and since 1835 has been the seat of government. This distinction it owes to its historic fame, its site being geographically and economically unfavourable for a great modern city. It has attracted neither wholesale trade nor industry, and Attica itself is by no means productive. BOOKS. Of the extensive literature on Athens the following books may be useful to the traveller: _Stuart’s_ and _Revett’s_ ‘The Antiquities of Athens’ (4 vols.; rev. ed., 1825–30); _Leake’s_ ‘Topography of Athens’ (London, 1821); _Wordsworth’s_ ‘Athens and Attica’ (4th ed., 1869); _Dyer’s_ ‘Ancient Athens’ (London, 1873); _Harrison’s_ and _Verrall’s_ ‘Mythology and Monuments of Ancient Athens’ (London, 1890); _E. A. Gardner’s_ ‘Ancient Athens’ (London, 1902). a. Walk from the Palace round the S. Side of the Acropolis. The PLACE DE LA CONSTITUTION, or _Syntagma Square_ (Pl. F, 5, 6; p. 505), with its hotels and cafés, is bounded by gardens on the E., beyond which rises the =Royal Palace= (Pl. F, G, 5, 6), built of limestone and Pentelic marble (1834–8), with a Doric portico. The trellised walks of the palace-garden (Pl. F, G, 6; entr. to the right, in the Rue de Képhisia; adm. Wed. and Frid., 4–6, in winter 3–5; smoking prohibited) afford shady promenades; from the S. part, with its fine palms, we get picturesque glimpses of the columns of the Olympieion, the Acropolis, and the sea. From Syntagma Square the broad Rue des Philhellènes leads to the S., past the Russian Church and the _English Church_ (Pl. F, 6, 7), a tasteful Gothic edifice, to the beautiful grounds of the =Záppion= (Pl. F, 7), an exhibition-building opened in 1888. The two statues adorning the flight of steps represent the brothers Zappas, who founded the building. At the W. angle of the grounds is a pleasing _Statue of Byron_ (Pl. E, 7). Café on the Terrace (p. 503). To the S. we have a view of the sea; to the E. (left) rises Hymettos. In the foreground, adjoining the Olympieion (p. 509), is *=Hadrian’s Arch= (Pl. E, 7), erected either by himself or his successor. This gateway, 14½ yds. broad and 59 ft. high, marked, as the inscriptions record, the boundary between the older quarters and the new town of Hadrian (p. 507). It was adorned with projecting Corinthian columns, of which fragments of the bases and the entablature alone survive. Above the gateway rises an attica with three window-like apertures and a pediment in the centre. The =Olympieion= (Pl. E, F, 7, 8), or _Temple of the Olympian Zeus_, has been entirely destroyed with the exception of fifteen huge marble columns. The original temple dates from the time of Peisistratos (ca. 530 B.C.; p. 506), but scarcely more than the foundations were then built. The work was resumed, ca. 174 B.C., by Antiochos IV. Epiphanes, to whose edifice the existing ruins belong, but it was completed only by Hadrian. When the temple was consecrated (ca. 129 A.D.) the Athenians showed their gratitude by erecting a statue of the emperor next to the gold and ivory statue of Zeus. The temple rose on a basis (118 by 45 yds.) approached by three steps, and was the largest Greek temple in existence after those of Ephesus and Selinus. The W. and E. ends were flanked with triple rows of eight columns, and the N. and S. sides with double rows of twenty; in all there were 104 Corinthian columns, 56½ ft. high and 56–67 inches in diameter. The precincts of the temple consisted of a large levelled platform, created by Hadrian, 224 by 141 yds., which had to be backed up on the W. side and at the S.E. corner, where it is buttressed with huge substructions. On the N. side, in a line with the E. front of the temple, an entrance with four columns has been unearthed. The view stretches from Hymettos to the sea, with the islands of Ægina and Hydra and the coast of Argolis. The Olga Boulevard (Pl. E-G, 7, 8), on the bank of the _Ilissos_ (generally dry), leads to the E. from the Olympieion to the Stadion bridge. Opposite the bridge is the old _Protestant Cemetery_. The *=Stadion= (Pl. G, H, 8; adm. 20 l.), the scene of the Panathenæan games, situated in a natural basin, was planned by Lykourgos (p. 507) in 330 B.C. The seats and balustrades in Pentelic marble were added, about 140 A.D., by Herodes Atticus (p. 507). The great size of the Stadion and the height of its rows of seats produce a very imposing effect, and this is enhanced by the rich marble decorations, which were renewed in 1896–1906. On its completion the building was inaugurated in 1906 with Olympic games, which are to be held here every four years. The entrance consists of a Corinthian propylæum. The race-course, ascending slightly, is 224 yds. long as far as the semicircular space at the S.E. end (sphendonē), and 36½ yds. in breadth. Exclusive of barriers and corridor, the actual course was 600 Græco-Roman or 584 Engl. ft. (195 yds.) long, and was divided into sections by _metae_ or goals, consisting of double hermæ, two of which have been re-erected at the semicircular space. The course is separated by a marble parapet from a corridor, 3 yds. wide, affording access to the lower tiers of seats. These are 24 in number, and higher up, separated from them by a broad passage, are 20 rows of benches, above which runs another passage overlooking the whole and protected on the outside by a parapet. There is accommodation for 50,000 spectators. From Hadrian’s Arch the short Rue de Lysicrate leads to the N.W. to the beautiful choragic *=Monument of Lysikrates= (Pl. E, 7), resembling a small round temple. This is the oldest well-preserved monument in the Corinthian style, and once served as the library of that French Capuchin Convent where Lord Byron spent a night. According to the inscription above the half-columns on the S.E. side, it was erected in 335–334 by a certain Lysikrates who had won the victory in the Dionysian games. On a cubic basement rises a round building in Pentelic marble, 21½ ft. high, with six Corinthian half-columns which support a tripartite architrave and sculptured frieze. The conical roof, consisting of a single slightly convex block of marble, is crowned with a vigorous acanthus flower, on which once stood the bronze tripod won by Lysikrates. The frieze, which dates from the prime of the school of Praxiteles, represents in very low relief, partly obliterated, the punishment of the Tyrrhenian pirates who had robbed Dionysos; before the god converts them into dolphins, they are being tormented in every possible way by his attendant satyrs. We return by the Rue de Byron (to the S.) to Amalia Street, in line with which the DIONYSIOS AREOPAGITES STREET (Pl. D, C, 7) ascends to the Acropolis. The *=Theatre of Dionysos= (Pl. D, 7), whose entrance we soon reach, was once the centre of the dramatic art of Greece, the spot in which the masterpieces of Æschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes first excited delight and admiration. From the early 5th cent, this site was occupied by a round enclosed orchestra (‘dancing place’), while for each performance a stage had to be specially erected, the audience being seated in a levelled hollow in the Acropolis hill-side. In the 4th cent., mainly in the time of Lykourgos (p. 507), tiers of stone seats and a permanent stage were erected for the first time. The present semicircular orchestra, paved with marble, and the remains of the stage-building belong to Roman restorations. The Roman raised stage rested on a wall adorned with good sculptures of the time of Nero. During the Greek age the actors and the chorus, the former wearing the raised cothurnus, performed on the level space in the orchestra, while the skēnē or stage served them as a kind of booth. The proskēnion, or wooden front of the stage, formed the background of the play, and was only superseded by a stone wall with columns at the close of the late Hellenistic period. Between the rectangular wings of the stage (paraskēnia) and the lowest seats for the spectators opened the entrances for the chorus (párodoi). The auditorium was divided by narrow flights of steps into 13 ‘wedges’ (kerkides) and by two cross passages (diazomata) into three main sections. The seats, originally for 14–17,000 spectators, are only partly preserved. In the front row were marble seats for the priests and state officials; that in the centre, set apart for the priest of Dionysos, is adorned with reliefs. The pedestal to the right, behind it, bore the throne of Hadrian. Adjoining the theatre was the _Sacred Precinct of Dionysos Eleuthereus_, the wine-dispensing god, with whose festivals the dramatic performances were connected. The walls of his temple (5th or early 4th cent.) are still partly preserved between the stage of the theatre and the modern street. Behind the stage ran a colonnade offering shelter in rainy weather; at its S.W. end once stood an older temple, the N.W. corner of which has been discovered. The ancient buildings to the W. of the theatre of Dionysos skirt the hill-side in two terraces. The E. half of the upper terrace, on the steep slope of the castle-hill, above the conspicuous arched wall, is the site of the famous =Asklepieion=, or sacred precinct of Asklepios (Æsculapius), Hygieia, and kindred deities, with which institutions for the treatment of the sick were connected. Of the temple, founded in 420, the foundations only are left. The perpendicular side of the Acropolis is here faced with masonry, in which is the entrance to a round well-house converted into a chapel. In front of it ran a colonnade towards the W., leading to a round pit, once roofed over, which is supposed to have been used for sacrificial purposes or as the abode of the sacred serpents. On the lower terrace, from the theatre to the Odeion, ran the _Stoa of King Eumenes II._ of Pergamon (B.C. 197–159), 180 yds. long, with its back to the masonry supporting the upper terrace. The *=Odeion of Herodes Atticus= (Pl. C, 7; keys kept by a pensioner, in the red hut at the W. entrance; 25–50 l.), founded by a rich citizen (p. 507; about 160 A.D.), dominates all the other ruins at the foot of the castle-hill. Unlike the usual odeon or theatre for musical entertainments, this building was constructed with a view to dramatic performances. The yellowish-brown façade is constructed in the Roman round-arched style and consisted of three stories. The usual entrance is by the westmost of the three doors. A niche here contains the statue of a Roman official. The INTERIOR affords a good example of a Roman theatre (comp. p. 510). The stage (logeion), raised 3½ ft. above the orchestra, is 38½ yds. in breadth, but only 6 yds. deep. At the back of the stage is a massive wall, broken by the usual three stage-doors and relieved by niches and a row of columns. The orchestra, 20 yds. wide, was paved with particoloured squares of marble. The auditorium, 83 yds. in diameter, could hold 5000 spectators. The tiers of seats rise in a semicircle, one above the other, on the rocky slope of the Acropolis. The lower 19 tiers were divided by steps into five, the upper (probably 13), above the transverse passage (see p. 510 and above), into ten sections. The seats, like the whole of the masonry, were coated with Pentelic marble; the lowest tier had backs. The whole edifice was covered with a superb roof of cedar-wood. From the Dionysios Areopagites Street (p. 510), where it passes the Odeion, there diverges to the W. the avenue leading to the Acropolis, immediately to the right of which a steep path ascends on the W. side of the Odeion to the Acropolis gate. Halfway up we diverge to the left to visit the summit of a rocky plateau (377 ft.) separated from the Acropolis by a depression, and descending abruptly to the N.E., still called as in ancient times the =Areopagus= (Pl. B, C, 6). A narrow flight of steps in the rock, partly destroyed, ascends to the site of some ancient altars, for which platforms were hewn in the rock. Here met the time-honoured court of justice, composed of noble and aged citizens who wielded supreme criminal jurisdiction. The cleft in the rock below the N.E. corner was probably connected with the cult of the avenging _Erinyes_ (Furies), or _Eumenides_ (the benevolent), as they were euphemistically called. This was the scene of Æschylus’s famous tragedy of that name. To the S.W. of the Areopagus rock, and below (to the E. of) the modern road from the Theseion (p. 521) to the Acropolis, the OLDEST QUARTER OF THE LOWER TOWN has been partly excavated (comp. Pl. B, 7, and p. 524). Descending at the W. point of the Areopagus rock from the modern to the ancient road, we reach, on the left, the DIONYSION EN LIMNAIS (Pl. B, 7), a triangular space enclosed by an antique polygonal wall of limestone. This was the sacred precinct of Dionysos Lenæos, the inventor of the wine-press, and once contained a temple of the 7th or 6th cent. B.C., a wine-press (in the N.W. angle), and a large hall of the Roman period (in the N.E. half). To the S. of the temple-precinct lay the _City Well of Kallirrhoë_. Peisistratos connected it with his aqueduct from the upper Ilissos valley, and provided it with nine spouts, whence it was called _Enneákrunos_. b. The Acropolis. The abrupt limestone plateau (512 ft.) on which stands the _Acropolis_, or castle of Athens, has formed from hoar antiquity the nucleus of all the settlements in the Attic plain. The legendary Pelasgi are said to have first levelled the top of the hill, enclosed it with a wall, and erected the so-called _Enneápylon_, an outwork with nine gates, to defend the sole approach on the W. side. The Acropolis contained the residence of the kings and the chief sanctuaries of the state. The kings afterwards transferred their seat to the lower city, Peisistratos alone preferring to reside in the Acropolis. The ancient buildings were destroyed by the Persians in 480–479. Themistokles and Kimon rebuilt the walls, and Perikles then became the chief founder of those magnificent buildings which, even in their ruins, still present the finest picture of the unrivalled art of antiquity. Tramway, see p. 503. The avenue mentioned above which ascends to the W. at the Odeion of Herodes Atticus brings us to the so-called Beulé Gate, on the plateau below the last steep W. slope of the **=Acropolis=. Carriages stop here. Visitors admitted till sunset. The BEULÉ GATE, named after the French savant who discovered it, was entirely built over by bastions down to 1852, but since 1889 has formed the chief entrance to the Acropolis (side-entrance under the Nike bastion). The towers flanking the gateway were built about 50 A.D.; the gateway itself dates from 160 A.D. and is embellished with fragments from a choragic monument erected by Nikias in 319. From the Beulé Gate we ascend a flight of marble steps, with many gaps, to the Propylæa. This staircase, which also was made in the first half of the 1st cent. A.D., replaces the steep ancient track. The tower-like pedestal on the left, below the Propylæa, once bore a _Statue of M. Vipsanius Agrippa_, the general and son-in-law of Emp. Augustus, erected between 27 and 12 A.D. To the right of the Propylæa projects a bastion, 26 ft. high, from which a small flight of marble steps descends, stopping short of our staircase. On this bastion rises the *=Temple of Nike= (Athena Nike, erroneously called Nike Apteros), which was reconstructed with the ancient stones in 1835–6. Its date is uncertain (probably between 440 and 410 B.C.). Like the Propylæa this little temple, 27 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, is built entirely of Pentelic marble. It stands on a basement of three steps, and is preceded at the E. and W. ends by a portico of four Ionic columns 13 ft. high. Above the tripartite architrave runs a sculptured frieze 85 ft. long and 18 inches high. At the E. end it represents a council of the gods, among whom are Athena with her shield (in the centre) and Zeus (sitting) next to her. On the sides are battles of the Greeks with the Persians (some of them mounted). At the W. end is a conflict between Greeks and Greeks. Only a few fragments of the roof have been found; it ended on the E. and W. in pediments which were unadorned. The entrance to the cella is formed by two pillars. On the marble cornice of the temple bastion there once rose a _Balustrade_ adorned with reliefs outside, and bearing a bronze railing. These admirable reliefs, remains of which are preserved in the Acropolis Museum (p. 520), represented goddesses of victory erecting trophies and presenting offerings in presence of Athenä. The *VIEW from beside the Temple of Nike is justly celebrated. In the picturesque intermingling of land and sea we descry the bay of Phaleron (p. 528), the peninsula of Munychia, the Piræus (p. 494), Salamis, and its adjoining islet of Psyttaleia (p. 494). A little farther to the right, beyond the bay of Eleusis, appears the dome-like rock of Acro-Corinth, backed by distant mountains. To the right of this, but in the immediate foreground, rises the Pnyx Hill with its rock-steps. The plain is overgrown with fine old olive-groves. Above it rise Mt. Ægaleos and the hills of Megara. To the S.W., to the left of the tower-like monument of Philopappos, stretches the Saronic Gulf, bounded by Ægina, with Mt. St. Elias, and by the Argolic Mts. and the island of Hydra. To the left runs the Attic coast as far as the islet of Gaïdaronisi, off Cape Colonna. The **=Propylæa=, the greatest secular edifice in ancient Athens, composed entirely of Pentelic marble, were erected in 437–432 B.C. by the architect _Mnesikles_. This highly artistic building consists of three parts—a central gateway with wings on the N. and S. The CENTRAL BUILDING, ruined by an explosion in 1645, consists of a wall pierced with five openings and preceded by Doric colonnades on the E. and W. sides. Each colonnade has six columns in front, above which ran a frieze of triglyphs and metopes, crowned by a plain pediment. The _W. Colonnade_, to which three huge steps ascend, is 19 yds. wide and 17 yds. deep. Its front columns belong to the Doric order and consequently rise directly from the ground (stylobate), without bases; they are 29 ft. high, and each is fluted with twenty grooves separated by sharp edges. Behind the two central columns, which are 12½ ft. apart, and flanking the main passage there are on each side three slender Ionic columns, 33 ft. high, resting on their cushion-like bases, and grooved with twenty-four flutes separated by broad fillets. The ceiling was divided into sunk panels adorned with painting. On the N. and S. sides the central building was bounded by massive walls, 17½ yds. long, ending in huge buttresses (antæ). Between these extended the _Gateway_ proper consisting, as above remarked, of a wall with five openings. Five marble steps ascend to the threshold, composed of black Eleusinian stone, on which the side-gates rest. The broad central gateway is without steps. All the gateways were once provided with massive folding doors. The _E. Colonnade_ is as broad as the other, but only 23 ft. deep. Of its six Doric columns five still have their capitals, and two are connected with their architrave. The well-preserved NORTH WING consists of a porch or vestibule, open towards the S., with three Doric columns between antæ, and an inner hall connected with it by a door and two windows. This was called the _Pinakotheka_, from its use as a receptacle for votive pictures (‘pinakes’) on marble or terracotta. The SOUTH WING, of which two columns and the back-wall only have been preserved, was never quite completed. Passing through the E. Colonnade of the Propylæa we enter the INNER WARD of the Acropolis and ascend a gradual slope, now covered with profoundly impressive ruins. When we picture to ourselves the mighty Parthenon, on the right, and the exquisite Erechtheion on the left, in the full glory of their sculptures and colouring, surrounded by smaller sanctuaries and a forest of statues, we may well understand the enthusiastic pride of the Athenians in their unrivalled Acropolis. From the central gateway of the Propylæa a broad pathway ascends along the main axis of the citadel. The rock has evidently been much cut away to facilitate the ascent, as we see from a glance at the rocky terrace on the right, which has a precipitous face 6½ ft. in height. Fragments of pedestals and square hollows in the rock indicate the ancient sites of numerous votive offerings. The terrace of rock just mentioned, to which nine low steps ascend farther on, once bore the temple of _Artemis Braurōnia_, but is now strewn with beams and fragments of ceiling from the Propylæa (panels with traces of blue colouring). The terrace is bounded on the W. by a fragment of a broad wall belonging to the original Pelasgic fortifications (p. 512).—Another rock-terrace, about 2½ ft. higher, and also cut perpendicularly, to the E. of the Brauronion, is supposed to have been the place where, without any actual temple, _Athena_ was worshipped as _Ergánē_, the mistress and inventor of every art. To the S. of this terrace we observe traces of walls which, together with the S. wall itself, seem to have formed a gigantic building. It was perhaps the _Chalkotheka_, an arsenal where not only implements of war but also bronze votive offerings, and other objects were kept. Towards the Parthenon the terrace had nine narrow steps on which votive offerings were deposited. About forty paces from the Propylæa, straight on, we come to a large cutting in the rock, the supposed site of the bronze statue of _Athena Promachos_, about 26 ft. high, by Phidias, erected with the booty of Marathon. The goddess was represented in full armour, with shield and lance. The gilded point of the lance, gleaming in the sun, was a landmark for sailors rounding Cape Colonna. The principal roadway, once used by the festal processions, passes between the Erechtheion and the Parthenon to the E. front of the latter. The **=Parthenon=, the most perfect monument of ancient art, once far surpassing all other Athenian buildings in the brilliancy of its plastic and polychrome decoration, and even in its ruins a marvel of majestic beauty, stands on the highest S. margin of the Acropolis precincts. On this site, as early as the middle of the 6th cent., a large temple was begun, adjoining the ancient Hekatompedon (p. 518), in poros or Piræan stone, and after the battle of Marathon down to the Persian occupation was continued in marble. In the time of Perikles, after 447, the whole edifice as it now stands was rebuilt in Pentelic marble. The architects were _Iktinos_ and _Kallikrates_, but Perikles himself presided over the works and provided the funds. The external sculptures are attributed to _Phidias_ and his pupils. The temple was probably opened for worship in 438, on the occasion of the erection of the statue of Athena at the Panathenæan Festival. This marvellous work must therefore have been completed within ten years. Its decoration alone included 98 columns, 50 life-size statues for the pediments, a frieze 524 ft. long, 92 metopes, and a gold and ivory figure of Athena 43 ft. high. On the massive basement in three steps, whose _Stylobate_, or platform for the colonnade, measures 75½ by 33 yds., rise 46 Doric columns averaging 34 ft. high, eight at each end and seventeen on each side (the corner-columns being counted twice). On the abaci of the columns rests the undivided _Architrave_ or _Epistyle_, above which runs a _Triglyph Frieze_, the most characteristic feature of the Doric order. This consists of _triglyphs_ or triple grooves, alternating with _metopes_ or flat spaces, which in this case are adorned with reliefs. Above the frieze is the _geison_, or lowest flat moulding of the cornice, while below each triglyph hang _regulae_ (_guttae_, or drops), corresponding with drops above it. The triglyphs and drops were painted blue, the ground of the metopes blue or red, and the lower surface of the geison and the continuous moulding above the frieze and architrave red. The smooth spaces in front were left white, as were also the columns, with the exception of the four rings or annuli below the capitals. The gable-roof rose at an angle of 13½°. At each end is a pediment, framing the _tympanum_, or receding space for statuary 91½ ft. long, 3 ft. deep, and in the centre 10½ ft. high. It was painted red at the back, so as to throw the statues into strong relief. The raised edges (_simae_) of the external members of the pediment, 18½ inches high, are intended to prevent the rain-water from escaping over the front; they were adorned with wreaths of foliage. The pediment was crowned with a boldly executed palmette, and at each corner was placed a golden oil-jar.—The roof, resting partly on timber and partly on stone framework, consisted of slabs of Parian marble 1¼ in. thick; it was edged with artistic _antefixae_, or hollowed tiles, between which the rain-water escaped. The lions’ heads at the ends of each side were purely ornamental. The _Cella_, or sanctuary proper, enclosed by the outer colonnades, is raised two steps above the stylobate. At each end a portico is formed by six Doric columns, 33 ft. high, and by the projecting sides. Above the architrave, round the whole building ran a frieze, of which hardly any traces remain except on the W. side (comp. p. 517).—The porticos were closed by high bronze railings between the columns. From the E. portico massive folding doors led into the interior, which was divided by a partition into an eastern and a smaller western section. The former, the inner sanctuary, was known as the _Hekatompedon_, being ‘100 ft. long’ (comp. p. 518). It was divided into three aisles by two rows of Doric columns (9 in each). On a square of darker stone in the pavement stood the famous gold and ivory statue of Athena Parthenos by Phidias. The ceiling was of wood in lacunars, which were doubtless richly coloured. Light was admitted by the door alone. The walls were painted dark-red, but no adequate idea can now be formed of the original wealth of colouring.—Between the partition and the W. portico, which is supposed to have formed a kind of treasury (_opisthodomos_), lay the W. section of the cella, 14 yds. in depth, sometimes called the _Parthenon_ in the narrower sense. The crowning glory of the Parthenon consisted in its plastic decoration, executed under the direction of _Phidias_. Most of the sculptures still preserved were taken to London by Lord Elgin in 1802–3 and are now in the British Museum, but there are several others in the Acropolis Museum (see p. 519). The _E. Tympanum_ was devoted to the nativity of Athena. All that remains of its sculptures in their original position consists of two horses’ heads belonging to the chariot of the rising Helios, on the left, and remains of a horse’s head of the chariot of the setting Selene, on the right. In the _W. Tympanum_, which illustrated the victory of Athena over Poseidon in their contest for the possession of Attica, are still seen, near the left angle, a half-recumbent male figure, round whose neck is the arm of a kneeling woman (Æsculapius and Hygieia?), and in the right angle a female figure supposed to be Kallirrhoë (p. 512). The _Metope Reliefs_ are of inferior artistic value. Of the 92 there still exist the 28 at each end and 12 on the N. side. They represent the conflicts of the gods with the Giants (E.), of the Lapithæ and Athenians with the Centaurs (S.), of the Athenians with the Amazons (W.), and lastly the siege of Troy. The high relief in some cases assumes an almost entirely rounded form. The masterpiece of Attic bas-relief is the *_Frieze_ of the cella wall, 175 yds. long and 39 in. high. On the W. front the greater part of it has been preserved, but on the S. side there are only scanty fragments. Twenty-two slabs are now in the Acropolis Museum (see p. 519). The reliefs represented the festal procession in which every four years, at the close of the Panathenæa, the maidens of Athens presented the goddess with a magnificent woven robe. Over the chief entrance is the presentation of the robe to Athena; to the right and left of it are the assembled gods; on the sides and at the back are Athenians. The figures were executed in low relief of 2–2½ in. only, in order to prevent strong shadows being thrown by the light entering the covered hall from below. The effect was enhanced by painting and mountings in metal. In the hollows on the S. side of the Parthenon, far below, may be traced the line of the _Pelasgic Wall_ (p. 512), which was covered up when the terrace of the temple was formed. Excavations here, and notably also to the N.W. of the Erechtheion, brought to light a number of archaic statues and architectural fragments dating from the Persian destruction. Near the N. margin of the Acropolis precincts, but in a slight depression, rises the **=Eréchtheion=, the temple of the tutelary goddess _Athena Poliás_ and the other deities of the city. The building was probably begun soon after the Peace of Nikias (421), but only completed in 407 or after 400. It contained chambers for the cult of Athena and Poseidon Erechtheus, while the vestibule had an entrance to the salt-spring produced by Poseidon. But the temple is now sadly ruined, having served in the middle ages as a church and afterwards as a Turkish harem. Since 1902, however, the ancient fragments have been pieced together, and they now afford a fairly complete idea of the exterior of the building, which differed from that of the ordinary temples. The nucleus of the edifice (24 by 12 yds.) rises on a threefold basement in steps, and the sanctuary was entered by three porticos (E., S., and N.) of charmingly varied type. The _E. Portico_ was formed by six Ionic columns in front, the northmost of which has been broken down. Their rich capitals bear the tripartite epistyle (p. 515); above it are dark blocks of stone to which the relief figures of the frieze were attached. Between the E. portico and the Acropolis Wall twelve broad steps, partly modern, descend to the terrace of rock, about 10 ft. lower, on which stands the _N. Portico_. Its six columns display a still greater wealth of sculpturing than those of the E. portico. The ceiling is relieved by lacunars. The great main doorway is specially rich and well preserved. The three holes in the rock below the N. side of the N. colonnade were pointed out in ancient times as the indentations made by Poseidon’s trident during his contest with Athena for possession of Athens. Above them the pavement and roof were left open.—The W. façade of the temple, in front of which lay the _Pandroseion_, or shrine of Pandrosos, daughter of Cecrops, was originally articulated by four columns, resting upon a high parapet. The existing arrangement, of pilasters engaged in a wall with windows, dates from the Roman period. The *_Colonnade of the Caryatides_ at the S.W. angle is particularly charming. Instead of columns, six statues of virgins, over life-size (7½ ft.), placed on a parapet, support the roof, the weight of which they bear with ease and grace. The ancient Athenians called them simply the _Korai_ (maidens). The second figure from the W. is a copy in terracotta; the one standing back in the E. row has been restored. To the S. of the Erechtheion are the foundations (37½ by 14½ yds.) of the so-called =Hekatómpedon= (early 6th cent.), on the site of the palace of Erechtheus. The name (‘100 ft. long’) is evidenced by an inscription. Peisistratos and his sons embellished it with a colonnade. After its destruction by the Persians it was probably restored without the colonnade. Opinions differ as to its object and as to its history after the completion of the Erechtheion. It had a front (E.) chamber of three aisles and a narrow chamber at the back (W.), with two small rooms between them. To the _Palace of Erechtheus_, the ancient residence of the Attic kings, belonged the foundations to the E. of the Erechtheion. So also did the poros (Piræan stone) bases of columns, lying opposite the S.E. angle of the colonnade of the Caryatides, 5 ft. lower; their extremely archaic form, with the shaft of the column embedded in the base, points to the Mycenæan period. We now return to the Parthenon. To the E. of it once stood a small round _Temple of the Goddess Roma and the Emp. Augustus_, round the foundations of which lie fragments of its architrave. Opposite the N.E. corner of the Parthenon are the remains of a sacrificial altar of Athena.—At the S.E. angle of the precincts the huge masonry of the _Kimonian Wall_ (p. 512) may be seen. The =Belvedere= at the N.E. angle of the Acropolis affords the best survey of the city. To the S.E. are the columns of the Olympieion, with the distant Hymettos; nearer rises Hadrian’s Arch; in the foreground is the monument of Lysikrates; then the royal Palace and its gardens; beyond them are Lykabettos and the gable-shaped Pentelikon; in the town, a little to the left, shine the dazzling marble buildings of the Academy, the University, and the Library; to the N. of these runs the Patisia road; more to the left rises the lofty Metropolis Church, with the small Metropolis nestling beside it; in the centre of the N. slope of the Acropolis rises the Tower of the Winds; adjacent is the Bazaar with Hadrian’s Stoa; to the W. is the Theseion, and beyond it the Kephisos Valley with its olive-groves, and Mt. Parnes with its S. spur Mt. Ægaleos. The *=Acropolis Museum=, erected in 1878, contains all the sculptures of the Acropolis, except those previously removed, and the yield of later excavations. Besides works of the golden age, it comprises valuable examples of the earlier periods of art. Adm., see p. 504. From the VESTIBULE, containing antiques of various ages, we enter (left) Room I, where the chronological order begins. ROOM I. Archaic sculptures in poros (6th cent.). Straight before us, No. 3. Bull attacked by two lions; above this, and by the right wall: 1, 2. Tympana with statues of Hercules (with traces of painting). By the window-wall: 9, 10. Deities enthroned, from a tympanum of the pre-Peisistrateian Hekatompedon (p. 518). ROOM II. Remains of the tympanum groups in poros from the Hekatompedon just mentioned: 36. Hercules with the Triton; 35. Figure with three bodies (‘Typhon’); 40. Remains of two large serpents in poros stone, showing abundant traces of painting (comp. water-colour on the wall). ROOM III. Figures (idols), tablets, and architectural fragments in terracotta, some with admirably preserved painting. Specially noteworthy, at the entrance, No. 67. A warrior (6–5th cent.). ROOM IV. Fragments of marble sculptures; architectural ornaments in terracotta, poros, and marble, some of them painted. On the right, the tympanum figures from Peisistratos’s colonnade round the old Hekatompedon (p. 518): Athena fighting with the Giants. ROOM V. Archaic marbles (6th cent.), incl. (on the right of the entrance) 624. _Calf-Bearer_ (youth bringing a calf to the altar). ROOM VI. Archaic *_Draped Female Figures_, erected in the Acropolis in the 2nd half of the 6th cent. as votive offerings, but buried in the rubbish after its destruction (480), also with interesting traces of painting. No. 681 is by Antenor, author of the tyrannicide group (comp. p. 506); No. 686 is the most recent. ROOM VII. Later archaic marbles, notably (in the centre, under glass) No. 689. Beautiful head of a youth; also two graceful reliefs, 695. Athena, and 702. Hermes and three women—Above, along the walls, _Metopes from the Parthenon_ (p. 517), few of them original; the finest, a Centaur carrying off one of the Lapithæ. ROOM VIII. _Sculptures from the Parthenon_: Statues from the tympana and reliefs from the frieze, those in the British Museum being represented by casts. In the centre of the room a reconstruction of the tympanum groups, according to Furtwängler. By the wall on the right are remains of the E. tympanum (p. 517), two torsos only being originals. No. 880 (in the centre). Hephæstus; on the right, 881. Selene. Above are remains of the W. tympanum; in the centre, 885. Poseidon. Most interesting of all is the better-preserved **Parthenon Frieze, of which nearly 28 yds. are almost entirely original (partly replaced by casts). To the right of the entrance, 856. Three deities, Aphrodite (?), Apollo, and Poseidon; below these, 857. Three youths with cows for sacrifice. Then, on the right, 877. Four women with silver or gold basins; 875. Three men with musical instruments. We note also several slabs from the procession of horsemen and chariots. To the right of the entrance, 860. Youth with sacrificial sheep. ROOM IX. On the right, beautiful reliefs from the Nike balustrade (p. 513); in the centre of the front row, *973. _Nike loosening her sandal_. On the left, Nos. 1071–78. Fragments of the relief-frieze of the Erechtheion. c. Walk from the Palace to the Theseion. Dipylon. Hill of the Nymphs. Pnyx. Monument of Philopappos. The upper or E. end of the RUE D’HERMÈS (Pl. E-B, 5), which leads to the W. from the Place de la Constitution, is one of the chief business quarters of Athens. Among the wares sold in the shops here are Oriental silks and woollen stuffs and antiquities, the latter dear and sometimes spurious. A few paces to the S. of the Rue d’Hermès rises the =Metropolitan Church= (Pl. E, 5), erected in 1840–55 with the materials of seventy smaller churches and chapels, and sumptuously fitted up in the interior. Adjoining it on the S. is the so-called *=Little Metropolis=, or church of _Panagia Gorgópiko_, of the early 9th cent., the oldest extant Byzantine edifice on Greek soil. The walls, composed of antique blocks of stone, contain many ancient and Byzantine sculptures. Halfway along the Rue d’Hermès is the KAPNIKARÆA CHURCH (Pl. D, 5), a complex Byzantine building (9th cent.?). Just beyond it we cross the busy— RUE D’EOLE (Pl. D, 6–3), the second main street of the old town, where men in Greek costume are often seen. Following it to the S., towards the Acropolis, and passing the Place Panteleēmon, we come to the old _Bazaar_ (Pl. D, 5), where tailors, shoemakers, and smiths ply their crafts in their open workshops. Adjoining the bazaar on the S. is =Hadrian’s Library= (Pl. D, 5), with its back to the Rue d’Eole, a massive edifice of 134 by 90 yds. A gate (keys at the provision-shop opposite) leads from the Rue d’Eole into the quadrangle, once bordered with a colonnade. The columns still standing and the building in the middle are restorations. On the wall of the large hall on the E. side are seen the places where the bookshelves were attached, as in the Pergamon library. On the W. side of the library, reached from the outside, still stands the N. half of the main façade, known as _Hadrian’s Stoa_. The marble wall is embellished with seven monolithic columns, 28 ft. high, with rich Corinthian capitals. An eighth column with the wall of the _anta_ belonged to the colonnade of the chief portal.—Near this is the _Stoa of Attalos_ (p. 521). At the S. end of the Rue d’Eole rises the so-called =Tower of the Winds= (Pl. D, 6; custodian 20–30 l.), a well-preserved octagonal marble edifice of the 1st cent. B.C., more accurately named the _Horológion of Andronikos_ of Kyrrhos. On the upper spaces of the eight walls, which are turned towards the different points of the compass, are reliefs representing the various winds; below are seen the lines of sun-dials. The round channels in the pavement inside, into which water flowed from a semicircular cistern outside, belonged to a water-clock. Lanes and steps ascend here to the S. to a path skirting the N. slope of the Acropolis and leading to the right to its entrance (10 min.; p. 512). A large paved quadrangle to the W. of the Tower of the Winds is supposed to have been a _Roman Macellum_ (Agora or market). It is entered from the W. by the =Market Gate= (_Porte de l’Agora_; Pl. C, 6). Four slender Doric columns, 26 ft. high, support a massive architrave with a frieze of triglyphs and metopes and a fairly well preserved pediment. According to the inscription on the architrave the gateway was erected about the time of the birth of Christ. In line with the N. central column is a tablet of Hadrian’s age, inscribed with regulations about the prices of oil, salt, etc. From the Market Gate we follow the Poikile Street to the W. to the Stoōn Street and descend the latter to the right. The second crooked side-street on the right then leads to the entrance (red door on the right; keeper 20 l.) of the =Stoa of Attalos= (Pl. C, 5, 6). This grand, two-storied market-hall was erected, as the inscription on the architrave, pieced together in front of the colonnade, records, by king Attalos II. of Pergamon (B. C. 159–138). It was 123 yds. long and 22 yds. deep, and formed the E. boundary of the Kerameikos market (p. 522). The groundfloor contained 21 closed chambers 16 ft. deep, in front of which ran a long colonnade. The traders probably had their stalls in the hall, while the closed rooms were used for storage. We now descend to the N., across the railway cutting, to the Rue d’Adrien, follow the latter to the left for a hundred paces, and turn to the left (S.) into Eponymōn Street; here, on the left, sixty paces farther, is the _Stoa of the Giants_ (Pl. G.; C, 5), a ruin so named from its three great Atlantes (beam-bearers). A little farther to the W., on the ancient _Kolonos Agoraeos_ (‘Hill of the Market’; see p. 522), rises the **=Theseion= (Pl. B, 5), the best-preserved of all the ancient Greek buildings. The massive construction, the lifelike sculptures, and the dark golden hue of the Pentelic marble are singularly impressive. The temple, commonly called Theseion, and converted into the church of St. George in the Christian period, is now supposed to have been dedicated to _Hephaestos and Athena_. The style of the building and its sculptures have led different authorities to assign its erection to a date a little before or a little after that of the Parthenon. At all events it was completed by 421 B. C., as an inscription records the setting up in that year of the two sacred images. The temple stands on a marble basement in two steps, 35 by 15 yds., and is enclosed by 34 Doric columns, 18 ft. high, 6 at each end and 13 on each side (the corner-columns being counted twice). They are rather more slender than those of the Parthenon, and like them lean slightly inwards. Above the architrave, which is undivided, runs a Doric frieze of triglyphs and metopes, encircling the whole building. The metopes, however, are adorned with sculpture only on the main (E.) façade and the immediately adjoining spaces on each side. In front are depicted the exploits of Hercules, on the sides those of Theseus. The building is crowned with a cornice and pediments. The statuary of the tympana has disappeared. The nucleus of the temple consists of the cella, 13 yds. long, at each end of which is a vestibule, formed by the antæ and two columns between them, and opening on to the colonnade. The E. vestibule now has a modern wall with a built-up door instead of the columns. The coffered ceiling on this side has been preserved intact. The W. vestibule retains its original aspect, except that a door has been broken through the wall at the back. The upper part of the cella wall is embellished, as in the Parthenon, with a relief-frieze (in Parian marble), which here, however, is limited to the two façades and the eastmost part of the sides. The E. part of the frieze represents a battle (between the Athenians and the Pelasgians?), witnessed by the gods. The W. frieze portrays the struggle of the Lapithæ and Athenians against the Centaurs.—The interior of the temple contains nothing of special interest. Many Englishmen were buried within this temple in the Turkish period. To the E. and N. of the Theseion lay the _Kerameikos_, or potters’ quarter, to which, in the 6th cent., the =Market= was transferred from the S.W. slope of the Acropolis. This, like the Forum at Rome, was the centre of classical Athens. The market was adorned with statues of great poets and orators, such as Pindar and Demosthenes. Around it rose the chief public buildings. Among them were the _Stoa Basileios_ (Pl. B, 5; seat of the Archon Basileus), the foundations of which (6th cent.) are supposed to have been discovered at No. 14 Poseidon Street.; also the Metroon, or temple of the mother of the gods, the Buleuterion, or town-hall, etc. To the N.W. of the Theseion a bridge crosses the Piræus railway (p. 495) to the _Theseion Station_ (Pl. B, 5). To the W. of this we reach the continuation of the Rue du Pirée. Following the latter for 150 paces to the N.E. towards the town, and just before reaching the conspicuous yellow and red chapel of _Hagia Triáda_ or _Trias_ (Pl. A, 4), we come to a gate on the right leading into the ancient cemetery at the Dipylon (small gratuity on leaving). Here we follow an ancient side-street, bordered with tombs, as far as the walls (see Pl. A, 4), which we skirt to the left. At their N.E. end we reach the outer Dipylon. The =Dipylon= (Pl. B, 4), the only ancient ‘double gate’ of Athens (end of 4th cent.), was the chief entrance of the city. Here converged the roads coming from Megara in the Peloponnesus and Eleusis and from Platæa and Thebes in Bœotia; and from this gate ran the _Dromos_, a great colonnaded street, to the S.E., below the Theseion hill, to the Kerameikos market-place (p. 522). The left side of the gateway has wholly disappeared, but a few blocks, attached to their base, of the right (S.) wall are still visible. In front of these rises a considerable part of the S. gateway-tower. In the centre are traces of the pier between the two passages. This outer gateway was connected with an inner gateway, on precisely the same plan, by walls 38 yds. long, thus forming an enclosed court. The S.E. tower was adjoined on the E. by a well-house. To the S.W. of the Dipylon the _City Wall_, here only 6½ ft. thick, has been brought to light. The carefully jointed blocks of blue limestone rest on the hastily built wall of Themistokles (479–478); the upper part was built of sun-dried brick. Outside this wall once rose a rampart, probably coeval with the Dipylon, 14 ft. thick, consisting of two walls with earth between. Beside the city wall, five paces to the S.W. of the Dipylon, is an ancient boundary-stone; seventy paces farther are remains of another gateway, probably the _Funeral Gate_. This, like the Dipylon, consisted of two gate-buildings, enclosing a court, though it had only a single passage. Through it, by the roadside, flowed the little brook _Eridanos_. To the W. of the Dipylon, in the direction of the Hagia Triáda Chapel, we soon reach the *=Burial Ground outside the Dipylon=, the principal cemetery of ancient Athens. As at Rome and Pompeii the tombs bordered the highroads outside the gates. In this case the more durable monuments have been left by the excavators in their original positions. Some of these are artistically executed, others seem to have been merely rectangular walled spaces. In ancient days, as now, the ground was very uneven; some of the tombs close to the road were raised on terraces 5–8 ft. above it. Before reaching the Hagia Triáda Chapel, we observe, on the left side of the road, two stelæ on Doric substructures, the tombs of _Thersandros_ and _Simylos_ (375 B. C.) and of _Pythagoras_ (5th cent.). Ascending to the left beyond a depression in the soil we come to a temple-shaped tomb, with figures of _Demetria_ and _Pamphile_, dating from the middle of the 4th century. Close to the Hagia Triáda Chapel is a large block of marble resembling a sarcophagus, the _Tomb of Hipparete_ (middle of the 4th cent.).—To the left, on and beyond the stone wall of the side-street mentioned at p. 522, are rows of tombs, arranged in order of families and phylæ or tribes and extending down to the Roman period. At the corner is that of the family of _Lysanias_, with a *_Relief of Dexileos on horseback_, who distinguished himself before Corinth in 394–393; the weapons and bridle were added in bronze. Next come the tombs of the family of _Agathon_ (4th cent.); that of his wife _Korallion_ represents a family group; then a temple-shaped tomb, the interior of which was adorned with paintings now almost completely erased. Farther on is a monument crowned with a huge bull. In front of it is another little temple-like monument with traces of painting; then a great Molossian hound. Beyond it, a tomb-relief with a boat.—Opposite the hound is the *_Tomb of Hegeso_, perhaps the finest of all, a lady at her toilet attended by a maid (4th cent.). About twenty paces short of the keeper’s house, and thirty paces to the S. of the path, is a graceful _Hydrophoros_ or female water-carrier (5–4th cent.). * * * * * The range of hills to the W. of the Acropolis and Areopagus, now uninhabited, was a favourite residential quarter of the ancient city, as is evidenced by countless remains of steps, cisterns, conduits, walls, and streets. From the Theseion (223 ft.) we ascend the broad AVENUE OF THE APOSTLE PAUL (Pl. B, 6), where, immediately on the right, rises the _Hagia Marina Hill_, thickly strewn with relics of ancient dwellings. Above it rises the _Hill of the Nymphs_, crowned with the _Observatory_ (Pl. A, 6; 345 ft.). To the S. of the Observatory a road descends into a slight hollow and then ascends the long =Pnyx Hill= (Pl. B, 7; 358 ft.), the structure on the N.E. slope of which is distinctly visible from the Areopagus and Acropolis. This consists of a terrace or platform, 131 yds. long and 71 yds. wide, the upper margin of which is cut out of the rock, while the lower part is buttressed by a massive wall of huge blocks of stone, forming a slightly flattened semicircle. In front of the abrupt back-wall of the terrace, about 13 ft. high, rise three steps bearing a cube of rock. This has been identified with the _Pnyx_, the place where, before the tiers of stone benches were erected in the theatre of Dionysos (p. 510), the Athenians held their political assemblies. The orator’s tribune (bēma) is supposed to have been attached to sockets on the platform in front of the cube of rock. The space occupied by the listening throng of citizens sloped gradually up to the supporting wall, which at that time was much higher. Above the cube once ran an upper terrace, where there rose a similar rock-altar, now much damaged. From this point we obtain a very striking view of the Acropolis. To the S. of the Pnyx Hill, in a depression, is the chapel of _Hagios Demetrios Lumpardiáris_ (Pl. B, 7), to the S. of which we now ascend the Philopappos Hill, the ancient _Museion_. On its crest we recognize many fragments of the ancient city-wall, which was joined by the Long Walls (p. 506) on the heights near the Monument and near the Observatory (see above). The =Monument of Philopappos= (Pl. B, 8) was built in 114–16 A.D. The upper part, in Pentelic marble, two-thirds preserved, had a frieze in high relief, crowned with three niches separated by Corinthian half-columns. The statue seated in the central niche is that of Antiochos Philopappos; to the left is that of his grandfather Antiochos IV. Epiphanes (p. 507). The relief is supposed to represent the ceremonial progress of Philopappos in his consular capacity. The square chamber behind was the burial-place. Very beautiful, especially at sunset, is the *VIEW FROM THE PHILOPAPPOS HILL. The Acropolis is visible in its full extent; at its base are the Odeion and the Theatre of Dionysos; to the right of these rise Hadrian’s Arch and the hills of the Stadion and Hymettos. To the left of the Acropolis are the Theseion and the Hill of the Nymphs, and beyond them the Athenian plain, bounded by Ægaleos, and Parnes. Above the Acropolis rise Mt. Lykabettos and part of Pentelikon. Towards the S. stretches the Saronic Gulf. d. The Modern Quarters. From the Place de la Constitution two broad streets lead to the N.W. to the Place de la Concorde: the RUE DU STADE (Pl. F-D, 5–3) and the Boul. de l’Université. In the former, immediately to the right, are the _Royal Stables_; then on the left, standing a little back, the _Parliament House_ (Pl. E, 5). In the BOULEVARD DE L’UNIVERSITÉ the first house on the right (Pl. S.; F, 5), is that of _Dr. Schliemann_ (1822–90), the famous discoverer of Troy, Mycenæ, and Tiryns. Farther on on the right are also the _Roman Catholic Church_ (Pl. F, 4) and the— *=Academy of Science= (Pl. F, 4), built of Pentelic marble in 1859–84. The style is classic Grecian, with Ionic porticos, tympana embellished with sculptures, and rich colouring, thus resembling a classic edifice in its palmy days. The tympanum group of the main building (birth of Athena) and the statues of Plato (left) and Socrates (right), opposite the entrance, are by Drosos. From the vestibule a passage to the right, descending a few steps, leads to the _Numismatic Museum_ (adm., p. 504), containing a valuable collection of coins, chiefly from countries influenced by Grecian civilization. Adjacent is the =University= (Pl. F, 3, 4), founded in 1837. It also has an Ionic portico and is enriched with colouring. The organization is similar to that of the German universities. There are about a hundred professors and lecturers and 2800 students. The buildings contain also the natural history collections. The adjacent =Library= (Pl. E, 3; _National_ and _University_, united in 1903), a handsome edifice in Pentelic marble, contains 314,000 vols, and 2530 MSS. The Rue du Stade and the Boulevard de l’Université cross the Rue d’Eole (p. 520) and its prolongation the Rue de Patisia (see below) and end at the PLACE DE LA CONCORDE (_Plateia tēs Omoneias_; Pl. D, 2, 3; tramways, p. 503), planted with trees and much frequented in the evening. From its S. side runs the Rue d’Athéna (Pl. D, 3–5) and from its S.W. angle the Rue du Pirée (Pl. D-A, 3, 4; fine view of the sea in the evening). To the W. runs the Rue Constantin, with the handsome new _Constantine Church_ (Pl. C, 2) and the new _National Theatre_ opposite (p. 504). At the end of it the road to the Peloponnesus Station (p. 502) bends round to the right. In the RUE DE PATISIA (Pl. D, E, 2, 1), near the outskirts of the town, on the right, are the Polytechnic and the _National Museum_. The =Polytechnic Institute= (Pl. E, 1), built in 1858 of Pentelic marble, consists of a two-storied central edifice in the Doric and Ionic styles and two Doric wings. The upper floor of the main building contains the _Historical and Ethnological Museum_ (adm., see p. 504), a collection of memorials of the Greek war of independence, costumes, etc.—Beyond the next side-street is the Museum. e. The National Archæological Museum. The **_National Archaeological Museum_ (Pl. E, 1), erected in 1866–89, contains the collections of antiquities belonging to the state (other than those of the Acropolis, Olympia, Delphi, etc.). Adm., see p. 504. In the central rooms are exhibited the Mycenæan and Egyptian antiquities, in the left (N.) wing the marble sculptures, in the E. annex the bronzes, and in the S. wing the vases. From the Vestibule we go straight into the central building. *ROOM OF THE MYCENÆAN ANTIQUITIES (about B.C. 1500–1000; comp. p. 416). The cases Nos. 1–41 in the middle contain the objects found in the richly furnished royal tombs in the citadel of Mycenæ, the traditional burial-place of Agamemnon and his family. They comprise trinkets, bronze weapons, vessels and utensils of gold, silver, and clay, etc.; thus, in stands 20 and 24 are golden masks used to cover the faces of the dead bodies, in stand 27 a double-handled beaker with doves, like that of Nestor described by Homer. The five reliefs on limestone slabs (Nos. 51–55), in the centre of the side-walls, were found above the tombs. No. 50, a case in the centre, shows the 6th tomb exactly as when discovered in 1878. The other cases contain relics of the same period from Mycenæ, and also, of rather later date, from other places in Greece, where the tombs were more plainly fitted up. At the end of the room, on columns: *1758, *1759. Gold goblets from Vaphio (near Sparta), with lifelike embossed scenes of browsing cattle and a bull-hunt. In the centre, in the detached glass-case No. 4, are chased and inlaid *Daggers. Adjacent, straight on, is the EGYPTIAN ROOM. We return to the Vestibule and enter the N. wing, containing the =Marble Sculptures=. ROOM OF ARCHAIC ART (7–6th cent.). To the left in the ante-room, No. 1. _Female Statue_ (votive offering of Nikandre, primitive), and Nos. 6, 57. _Female seated Statues_; in the chief room are the so-called _Apollo Figures_, nude, some of them probably of deceased persons exalted into heroes; of this series No. 10, by the right wall, and Nos. 1904 and 9, by the left, are followed by many others, progressive in style. Also in the chief room, in front of the column on the right, No. 21. _Winged Nike._ By the right wall, 2687, 1959. _Tomb Stelae._ By the left pillar at the entrance, and also to the left farther on, 30, 86. Painted _Stelae_, and 29. _Stela of Aristion_, with the painted relief of a warrior. ROOM OF THE ATHENA (5–4th cent.). In the centre, 129. Varvakion Statuette, a copy in marble, 39 inches high, of the ivory and gold statue of Parthenos by Phidias (p. 516), appearing somewhat heavy in its reduced size, as the original was intended to be viewed from a distance.—To the left of the entrance, *126. The _Eleusinian Relief_, Demeter and Kore presenting the young Triptolemos (father of husbandry) with grains of corn (5th cent.). By the pillar, 177. Female ideal head.—Left wall, 178. _Boar’s Head_, and 179, 180. _Heads of Youths_, probably by Skopas; *181. So-called _Eubuleus_, resembling the Hermes of Praxiteles; 182. _Head of Aphrodite_; 159–161. Three graceful figures of _Nike_.—Wall of exit, 128. So-called Lenormant’s statuette of Athena, another copy of Phidias’s Parthenos, more faithful in detail (base, shield, etc.) than the Varvakion statuette; 1783. _Votive Relief_, two-sided.—By right wall, 136–174. Sculptures and architectural fragments from the temple of Æsculapius at Epidauros (4th cent.). ROOM OF THE HERMES (5–4th cent.). Left wall, 218. So-called _Hermes of Andros_, similar to that of Praxiteles; to the left of it, 221, 222. Frieze from Lamia, a procession of Tritons, Nereids, and Cupids; to the right, *215–217. _Marble Pedestal_ from Mantinea, with the contest between Apollo and Marsyas, of the school of Praxiteles. Then, in front of the pilaster, 1733. Square _Pedestal_, probably by Bryaxis (4th cent.).—In the right half of the room are four works by Damophon (2nd cent. B.C.), from _Lykosura_: to the left of the entrance, 1736. Head in the style of the Zeus of Otricoli in Rome; on the right and left of the exit, two female heads; near the former, 1737. Fragment of drapery, with grotesque ornamentation. Also in front of the window-wall, *1463. Triangular _Tripod Base_, with Dionysos and two female figures, of the school of Praxiteles. By the window-wall, 1561–1583. Sculptures from the Heræon at Argos (about 400 B. C.), incl. No. 1571, a fine female head. Straight on, we pass through the Poseidon Room to the (left)— ROOM OF THEMIS. Right wall, 231. Colossal statue of _Themis_ (about 300 B. C.).—Two marble statues found in 1900–1 among others at the bottom of the sea in the strait of Kythera: one, by the wall of entrance, a wrestler, about to kneel (Hellenistic style); the other, in the right corner, figure of a youth, coated with shells. ROOM OF POSEIDON (Hellenistic and Roman periods). By the entrance, 235. Colossal figure of _Poseidon_.—In the centre, 261. _Maenad_ asleep.—By the left wall, 239. _Satyr_, from Lamia; 240. _Hermes of Atalante_; 244. _Youth_, from Eretria (head recalling the Hermes of Praxiteles); 234. Colossal head of _Athena_; 243. _Hermes with the Ram_; 262. _Aphrodite_, with transparent drapery.—To the right of the exit, *247. _Celtic Warrior_, fallen in battle, recalling the Pergamenian groups.—Right side, 1826. Copy of the _Diadumenos_ of Polykleitos; 252, 251. Statuettes of Pan; 257. Silenos, with the young Dionysos on his left shoulder; 258. Æsculapius. ROOM OF THE KOSMETÆ. To the left of the entrance, 249. Hadrian; right, 420. Head with long hair and Semitic features (recalling heads of Christ).—Near the exit, 417, 418. Antinous.—Near the left wall, 384–416. Hermæ and heads of _Kosmetae_ (officials of the Ephebic gymnasia of Athens), of the early centuries A. D.—_Mosaic_ from the Piræus. THREE ROOMS OF TOMB RELIEFS, chiefly of the golden age of Greek art.—ROOM OF TOMB VASES, massive marble vases of the Greek ages, mostly tall slender lekythi (for perfumes) and amphoræ.—ROOM OF THE SARCOPHAGI and of sepulchral decorations of the Greek and Roman ages. To the left is the annex containing the =Bronzes=. I. BRONZE ROOM. In the centre, 13,396. _Statue of a Youth_, over life-size, stretching out his right hand, a good work of the 4th cent., (reconstructed); this is the finest of the sculptures found in the strait of Kythera.—To the right of the entrance, _Archaic Bronzes from the Acropolis_, votive offerings, implements, and utensils, mostly found in the rubbish left by the Persians (p. 506); the finest are Nos. 6447, 6448. Statuettes of Athena, 6445. Statuette of a youth; 6446. Bearded head, with eyes inserted.—To the left, _Bronzes from Olympia_, primitive and archaic little figures of animals and men, weapons, and implements; on columns, 6439. Realistic head of an athlete (Hellenistic), 7474. Statuette of a youth. II. BRONZE ROOM, containing bronze _Figurines, Statuettes, Implements, and Utensils_ (vases, lamps, mirrors, helmets, strigils, bracelets, rings, brooches, surgical instruments).—To the left of the entrance of the next room, 11,761. _Statue of Poseidon_ (early 5th cent.). III. BRONZE ROOM (rotunda) contains the other bronzes found in the strait of Kythera (comp. R. I). To the right of the entrance, 13,399. Figure of a youth, in the style of the older Argive school, still on its old pedestal; 13,397 and 13,398. Statuettes of youths; 13,400. Hellenistic head. We return to the Sarcophagus Room and pass to the left through the ROOM OF THE ROMAN TOMB RELIEFS to the— ROOM OF THE VOTIVE RELIEFS. By the entrance wall and on the left are votive reliefs from the _Asklepieion_ (p. 511). The most elaborately executed is No. 1377, near the middle of the left wall (4th cent.); adjacent is No. 2565, in the form of a stele.—The KARAPANOS ROOM is chiefly devoted to relics from the Zeus oracle at Dodona. On the S. side of the museum is the =Collection of Vases=. The finest are mostly from Attica, the chief seat of the vase-painting of the 6–4th cent., such as the _Black-figured Vases_, with their silhouette-like figures painted in black (6th cent.; ROOM I, cabinets 13–23); the _Red-figured Vases_, vessels entirely covered with a black glaze, the figures alone, on their original red ground, remaining free (after middle of 6th cent.; ROOM II); and the _Lekythi_, slender vessels for perfumes, with coloured figures on a white ground (after the Persian wars; ROOM III, cabinets 41–50). Adjacent are three front-rooms containing the =Terracottas=, including fine sets of figurines of the best period (5–4th cent.). In the last room are exhibited also antique trinkets and vessels. f. Walks. The ascent of =Lykabettós= (909 ft.), the finely shaped hill to the N.E. of Athens, is specially attractive by early morning or late evening light. We diverge to the N. from the Rue de Képhisia at the end of the palace-garden (Pl. G, 5), cross the Kolonáki Square (Pl. G, H, 5), and in 6 min. reach the reservoir of the _Water Conduit_ of Hadrian, now utilized anew (Pl. H, 4; 445 ft.), where there is a small café commanding a fine view. Hence we proceed to the Lukianos Street, from the N. end of which an easy path ascends through young plantations. After the first zigzags a level path (Pl. H, 3) diverging to the left affords almost finer views than the top of the hill. The path straight on ascends to the _Georgios Chapel_ (Pl. H, 3) on the summit in ½ hr. more. The view embraces the city of Athens, with the Acropolis and the Attic plain, the Piræus, the bay of Phaleron, and the Saronic Gulf, with Ægina and Salamis and the distant mountains of Argolis; to the right of Salamis are the hills of Corinth and Megara; in the foreground, concealing the bay of Eleusis, rises Mt. Ægaleos; farther to the N. is Mt. Parnes. Between the latter and Pentelikon, which rises to the N.E., extends the upper plain of Attica. To the E. is Mt. Hymettos. A fine view of Athens and the Acropolis is obtained also from the =Kolōnós= hill, the legendary home of Sophocles. From the Place de la Concorde (Pl. D, 2, 3) we follow the tramway to _Kolokythu_ (comp. Pl. A, 1) and reach the hill in ½ hr.; it rises to the right of the road and is recognized by the conspicuous monuments of the antiquarians Otfried Müller (d. 1840) and Chas. Lenormant (d. 1859). Adjacent lay the AKADEMEIA, the grove where Plato taught. The most popular resort on fine summer evenings is =New Pháleron= (tramway and Piræus railway, see p. 503), on the bay of Phaleron. A band plays in the evening on the broad coast-terrace, with its cafés and bath-houses (bath 40 l.).—A branch of the tramway runs to the quieter sea-baths of OLD PHALERON (comp. p. 503).—The _Piraeus_, see p. 494. [Illustration: ATHENES] 80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople. 545 M. STEAMERS (agents at the Piræus, see pp. 494, 495; at Smyrna, p. 531; at Constantinople, pp. 538, 539). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (comp. RR. 23, 24, 77), Mediterranean & Levant Service, in either direction every other Thurs.; from the Piræus to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2–2½ days (fare to Smyrna 40 or 28, to Constantinople 72 or 48 marks).—=2.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (comp. RR. 23, 77), N. Mediterranean service, from the Piræus every other Mon. (from Constantinople Thurs.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 90 or 60 fr.); also the Marseilles, Constantinople, and Batum line, from the Piræus Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 3 days (fare 80 or 40 fr.).—=3.= _Khedivial Mail Steamship Co._ (comp. R. 76), from the Piræus Frid. (from Constantinople Tues.) aft., to Smyrna in 18 hrs., to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 52 or 39, and 91 or 61 fr.).—=4.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (comp. R. 78), Greek-Oriental Line, from the Piræus Frid. even, (from Constantinople Mon.), to Smyrna in 2, to Constantinople in 5 days (fares 54 or 38, and 132 or 93 fr.). Line XI of the Società Nazionale (pp. 493, 563) touches at Smyrna on the outward voyage only (Piræus to Constantinople 3½ days). TO CONSTANTINOPLE DIRECT. =1.= _Rumanian Mail Line_, from the Piræus Sun. aft., in 24 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Frid. aft. in 23 hrs.).—=2.= _Società Nazionale_, Line XII, from the Piræus Thurs. night, in 32 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Wed. foren., in 31 hrs.); fares 101 fr. 30, 70 fr. 70 c.—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_, fast steamers between Trieste and Constantinople, from the Piræus Sat. aft., in 35 hrs. (from Constantinople Sat. foren., in 29 hrs.); fare 90 or 60 fr. _Athens_ and the _Piraeus_, see pp. 502, 494. We first steer to the S.E. across the _Bay of Ægina_ (p. 494), past the three pinnacles of _Cape Zostēr_, the southmost spur of Hymettos, and near the islets of _Phleva_ (ancient _Phabra_; lighthouse) and _Gaïdaronisi_. Beyond _Cape Colonna_ or _Kolonnaes_ (ancient _Sunion_), on which the columns of the temple of Poseidon are conspicuous, opens the _Strait of Kea_, between (left and right) the lonely _Makronisi_ (922 ft.; ‘long island’; ancient _Helena_) and the fertile island of _Kea_ (1863 ft.; formerly _Keos_), with its lighthouse on the headland of _Hagios Nikolaos_. On the left are the _Petali Islands_ (_Petaliae Insulae_) in the bay of that name, and _Hagios Elias_ (5264 ft.), the S. point of _Euboea_. We next steer through the _Straits of Doro_ (7½ M. in width; Ital. _Canal d’Oro_), where a strong N.E. current prevails and storms are frequently encountered. They lie between Eubœa and _Andros_ (3199 ft.; 156 sq. M.), the largest of the Cyclades (p. 492), with the lighthouse on _Cape Fassa_. Beyond them we are in the open sea. Halfway between Andros and Chios (p. 492) are the _Kalogeros Cliffs_, belonging to Greece. Most of the vessels leave them to the right and steer to the E.N.E. to the passage between the rocky island of _Psara_ (ancient _Psyra_; notable for the revolt of the modern Greeks against the Turks) and _Chios_, with the bold and conspicuous _Mt. Hagios Elias_ (4134 ft.; _Pelinnaeon_) at its N. end. To the N. appears the S. coast of _Mytilini_ (p. 533). Beyond the N. end of the _Straits of Chios_ (p. 492) the Levant steamers (RR. 75, 76) round the steep limestone rocks of the Anatolian peninsula of _Kara Burun_, with the _Boz Dagh_ (3920 ft.; ancient _Mimas_), and come in sight of the *=Gulf of Smyrna=, the ancient _Sinus Hermaeus_, which runs 34 M. inland. The entrance between (right and left) the headlands _Kinlu Burun_ and _Arslan Burun_ (Greek _Cape Hydra_) is 15 M. broad. On the left, to the S. of Arslan Burun, near the islets of _Drepanon_ and _Oglak_ (lighthouse), lies the little bay of _Phokia_ (Turk. _Foja_). This was the ancient _Phocaea_, the northmost Ionian town, whose bold mariners first opened up the W. Mediterranean to the Greeks (comp. p. 121). Farther to the S., beyond _Cape Myrminghi_ (lighthouse), is the new estuary of the _Gedis Chai_ (_Hermos_), flanked with swampy alluvial soil and salt-works. After rounding the island of _Kiösteni_ (Gr. _Makronisi_), which lies in front of the E. slope of the Boz Dagh (see above) and masks the _Bay of Gülbagcheh_, we sight to the S., beyond the _Marathusa Islands_, the houses of _Hagios Joannes_ (quarantine station), on an islet in the _Bay of Vurlá_. Here once lay the Ionian town of _Klazomenae_. The plain of Vurlá is famed for its wine and ‘Smyrna figs’. Opposite the hills of the ‘_Two Brothers_’ (_Dyo Adelphia_, Turk. _Iki Kardash_; 3252 ft.) we pass the narrow old channel of the Gedis Chai (lighthouse). On a peninsula on the right lies the Turkish _Fort Sanjak Kalesí_; farther on is the suburb of _Göz Tepeh_ (p. 532). To the N.E. the imposing _Yamanlar Dagh_ (p. 533) and the lofty _Manissa Dagh_ (5905 ft.; ancient _Sipylos_) beyond it become more conspicuous. To the S. of the latter is a depression, beyond which rises the _Takhtaly_ or _Nif Dagh_. Beside the sea rises the _Pagos_ (p. 532) with its old walls and many cypresses. On its slopes, far to the S.W. and N.E., extends _Smyrna_. * * * * * =Smyrna.=—ARRIVAL. As soon as permission to land is obtained the hotel-agents, guides, and boatmen come on board. Landing or embarkation, with baggage 1½ fr., but 2–3 fr. when the steamer anchors in the outer roads. As to the examination at the Custom House (Pl. B, 3), comp. p. 537. The porter (hamál) expects a few silver piastres. HOTELS. *_Gr.-Hôt. Kraemer Palace_ (Pl. c; B, 3), Passage Kræmer (p. 532), with American bar, etc., R. 6–20, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–25 fr.; *_Gr.-Hôt. Huck_ (Pl. a; B, 4), on the quay, nearly opposite the Douane, pens. 10–25 fr.; _Hôt. de la Ville_ (Pl. b; B, 3; Ital. host), on the quay, pens. 10–12, D. 3 fr. (in the season, March-May, rather dearer). CAFÉS (all on the quay). _Kraemer_, see above (also restaurant, beer, etc.); _Klonaridis_, in the Hôt. de la Ville; _Café Costi_, _Café High Life_, both Quai Anglais, etc. POST OFFICES. _British_ (Pl. 9; C, 4); _French_ (Pl. 8; B, 4); etc.—TELEGRAPH OFFICES. _Turkish_ and _Eastern Telegraph Co._, on the quay, adjoining the Douane (1st floor). [Illustration: SMYRNE] [Illustration: SMYRNE] CABS at the hotels and railway-stations (bargain necessary). Drivers often ignorant and exorbitant. Drive 1 fr. to ½ mejidieh, hr. 1 mej.; ½ day about 2 mej.—HORSES in the Place Fassulah (Pl. C, 3), about 2 mej. per day. TRAMWAY from _Konak_ (Pl. A, 6) along the quay to _Punta Station_ (_Gare de la Pointe_; Pl. E, 2), 7 metalliks; from Konak to _Göz Tepeh_ (p. 532), 4 metalliks. LOCAL STEAMERS to Kordelio, Göz Tepeh, etc. STEAMBOAT AGENTS (offices all on the quay). _North German Lloyd_, Van der Zee (also for German Levant Line); _Austrian Lloyd_, Pussich; _Khedivial Mail_, Cohen; _Messageries Maritimes_, D. G. Alevra; _Società Nazionale_, Fratelli Missir; _German Levant Line_, Milberg; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Bégléry. BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (Pl. B, 4); _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue Franque (p. 532); _Banque de Salonique_ and _Banque d’Athènes_.—MONEY CHANGERS in front of the Hôt. Huck and the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4); a charge of 2–5 metalliks is made, according to amount. Perforated coins should be rejected. CONSULATES. British: consul-general, _H. D. Barnham_; vice-consul, _C. E. Heathcote Smith_.—United States (Pl. 3; C, 3): consul-general, _E. L. Harris_; vice-consul, _E. A. Magnifico_. ENGLISH CHURCH (Pl. E, 2), near Gare de la Pointe. _Smyrna_, Turk. _Izmir_, the seat of the vali or governor of the Turkish province of _Aidin_, lies in 38° 26′ N. lat. and 27° 9′ E. long., in a bay between Sanjak Kalesí (p. 530) and the _Punta_ (La Pointe; Pl. D, E, 1). As all the older harbours on the W. coast of Asia Minor have been choked by alluvial deposits, Smyrna has developed into the chief seaport of Anatolia and the largest city in Turkish Asia after Damascus. Population, excl. suburbs, about 200,000, incl. over 100,000 Greeks, 60,000 Turks, 20,000 Jews (p. 542), 12,000 Armenians, and 15,000 Europeans and Levantines. The chief languages are Greek, French, and Italian. Smyrna was founded in the 11th cent. B.C. on the N. side of the bay of Burnabad (p. 533), about 2 M. to the N. of the present city. The Ionians of Colophon (p. 491) captured it for the sake of its trade in the 7th cent. and added it to their league of twelve cities. About 575 B.C. it was taken by the Lydian king _Alyattes_, who destroyed it and settled its inhabitants in villages. A new Smyrna, as planned by Alexander the Great, was founded later on the Pagos (p. 532) by the diadochi _Antigonos_ and _Lysimachos_, and soon developed into one of the finest towns in Asia Minor. After the havoc wrought by terrible earthquakes in 178 and 180 A.D. the emperor _Marcus Aurelius_ caused it to be rebuilt. For a time it was wrested from the Byzantine emperors by Turkish pirates (1084) and the Seljuks (p. 542). During the Latin domination in Constantinople (p. 542) Smyrna remained under the sceptre of the Greek emperor at Nikæa. In 1344 the Genoese and the Knights of St. John took the city under their protection, but in 1402 they were unable to save it from the ravages committed by Timur (p. 485), nor could they in 1424 prevent its capture by the Osmans. This ‘eye of Asia Minor’, as the Turks have called Smyrna, has risen to wonderful prosperity of late years. The quays were built in 1868–80 and at the same time the HARBOUR, of 50 acres only, was protected by a breakwater 1400 yds. long and 19 yds. in breadth. The entrance is between the N.E. end of this breakwater and the N. pier (Pl. B, 3, 4) near the passport-office, passengers’ custom-house, and telegraph office. The local steamers (p. 531) are berthed between the N. and the S. mole (Pl. A, 4, 5; chief custom-house). The great business thoroughfare is the QUAY STREET (Greek _Prokymaea_, Ital. _Marina_), over 2 M. long, skirting the Frank quarter (see below). In the S. part of this street, among the motley throng of sailors, dock-labourers, and traders of every nation, are often seen picturesque trains of camels, headed in some cases by a donkey. The N. part of the quay, with its theatres, cafés, and many handsome dwelling-houses, is of an entirely different character. From the quay several alleys, the Kræmer Passage, the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4), and others, and the busy street Galatzo Sokak (Pl. B, C, 3) lead to the _Frank Quarter_. The main streets here, running parallel with the quay, are the so-called Parallel St., the Quai Anglais (Turk. Eski Balik Basar; Pl. B, C, 3, 4), the Maltese quarter, and above all the FRANKS’ STREET, in sections bearing different names (Rue des Verreries, Rue Franque, Rue Trassa, etc.), and lined with many European and other shops. To the E. of Rue Franque, passing the Rom. Cath. cathedral of _St. Jean_ (Pl. C, 4), we come to the _Greek Quarter_, to which the lively streets Bella Vista (Pl. D, 2) and Oroman Sokak (Pl. D, 2, 3) also lead. The Greek Cath. cathedral of _Hagia Photinē_ or _Aï Fotini_ (Pl. B, 4) lies near the S.W. end of the Franks’ Street. A little beyond Aï Fotini the street ends at the *BAZAAR (Pl. B, 5; open till sunset), which vies in its picturesque variety with the Great Bazaar of Constantinople. Smyrna carpets, mostly from the interior, old embroidery, and modern silks may be bought here at reasonable prices. The so-called antiquities, however, are generally spurious. The bazaar is within the _Turkish Quarter_, on the site of ancient Smyrna, with its quiet streets ascending the Pagos (see below), and extending to the S.W. to the _Moslem_ and the old _Jewish Cemeteries_. Near these, but difficult to find, are traces of the temples of _Asklepios_ and _Vesta_ (Pl. A, 7). Within the Turkish quarter lies the very unsavoury _Jewish Quarter_ (Pl. B, C, 5, 6). From the church of Aï Fotini we may walk through the _Armenian Quarter_, past the Armenian cathedral of _St. Etienne_ (Pl. C, 5) and the Basma Khâné Station (Pl. D, 5), to the _Caravan Bridge_ (Pl. E, 5), which the busy traffic with the interior crosses. From the Moslem cemeteries (Pl. A, B, 7) mentioned above, or from the Caravan Bridge, we ascend in ½ hr. to the top of the *PAGOS (525 ft.), which affords a superb view of the city, the bay, and the hills around. The extensive outer wall of the old _Castle_, dating from the Byzantine and Genoese periods, consists partly of the substructures and masonry of the Acropolis of king Lysimachos (p. 531). Of the _Roman Theatre_ (Pl. C, D, 6, 7) and the _Stadion_ (Pl. B, C, 7; p. 509) on the hill-side hardly a trace is left. *EXCURSIONS. To _Göz Tepeh_ (p. 530) by tramway or by local steamer (p. 531).—By local steamer or by railway (from the Basma Khâné Stat., see p. 532) to _Kordelio_ (cafés; sea-baths), a little town prettily situated among gardens on the N. bank of the bay. From the steamer, to the E. of the Punta (p. 531), we see the _Bay of Burnabad_ and the plain of that name, beyond which, on the _Yamanlar Dagh_ (3202 ft.), is the site of _Ancient Smyrna_ (p. 531). * * * * * Leaving Smyrna the STEAMER passes the Kara Burun (p. 530) and usually steers to the W.N.W. out to sea. Astern we obtain a fine view of Chios. We soon skirt the beautiful S. coast of =Mytilini= or _Mitylene_ (3084 ft.; ancient _Lesbos_; 673 sq. M.), the largest island in the Ægean Sea, and pass the narrow entrance of the far-penetrating _Bay of Kalloni_. Beyond _Cape Sigri_ (_Sigrium Promontorium_) and the islet of _Megalonisi_ (lighthouse) we sight the distant coast of Troas (see below). Some of the vessels, beyond Arslan Burun (p. 530), steer to the N., close to the Anatolian coast, and past the finely varied scenery, of the _Bay of Chandarli_, the ancient _Sinus Elaeates_. On the N. bank of that bay, to the W. of the estuary of the _Bakyr Chai_ (once _Kaïkos_), rises the _Kara Dagh_ (2559 ft.; _Cane Mons_). Beyond _Cape Maltepe_, a spur of Kara Dagh, and the _Hagios Georgios Islands_ opens the _Strait of Mytilini_, 9 M. wide, lying between the island and the coast of ancient _Mysia_. On the right, far inland from _Kabakum Bay_, we sight the hills near _Bergama_, the famous _Pergamum_ of the Greeks. On the hill-side to the left, beyond _Cape Malea_, the S.E. point of the island, lies _Mytilini_ or _Kastro_ (Turk. _Midüllü_), its capital, with a Genoese castle. At the N. end of the strait, beyond the entrance to the harbour of _Aivaly_ (Gr. _Kydonia_), and the _Moshonisia Islands_ (_Hekatonesoi_), opens to the N.E. the broad _Bay of Edremid_ (_Adramyti_), on which rises _Kaz Dagh_ (5807 ft.), the ancient _Ida_. We next steer to the W. through the _Muselim Sound_, between the N. coast of Mytilini and the S. coast of _Troas_ or the _Troad_, where once rose the loftily situated stronghold of _Assos_. After passing cape _Baba Burnu_ (_Lectum Promontorium_), the S.W. point of Troas, we follow the course of the direct steamers from Smyrna, past _Cape Eski Stambul_ (‘Old Stambul’), the site of _Alexandreia Troas_, a town of the Diadochi, and through the _Strait of Tenedos_ (3 M. broad). The island of _Tenedos_, famed in the Trojan wars, now abounding in windmills, rises in a trachytic double peak to a height of 627 ft. At the N. end of the strait lies the islet of _Gaïdaronisi_ (lighthouse). Far away to the W., in clear weather, we descry the island of _Limnos_ (ancient _Lemnos_); to the N.W., beyond _Imbros_, towers the mountain-mass of _Samothrake_ (5250 ft.). Beyond _Besika Bay_, in front of which lie the volcanic islands of _Tavshan Adalar_ (‘rabbit-islands’; once _Kalydnae_ or _Lagussae_), we pass the hills bordering the W. side of the plain of _Troy_, the legendary scene of the Homeric battles. Between _Hagios Dimitrios Tepeh_ (hill of St. Demetrius) and the Greek village of _Yenishehr_ is the site of _Sigeum_ or _Sigeion_. Near it the tumuli of ‘Achilles and Patroklos’ were the burial-places of that Athenian colony. We now near the strongly fortified =Dardanelles= (p. xxxiv), the ancient _Hellespont_, now named after the ancient town of Dardanos (see below). The straits connect the Ægean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, a distance of 37½ M., and average ¾–4¾ M. in breadth, and 160–295 ft. in depth. They intersect a tableland, 820–925 ft. in height, of tertiary formation (yellow marl and marl-limestone of the upper miocene). The surface current (p. 557), sometimes setting as in the Bosporus at the rate of 5 M. an hour, causes serious difficulty to sailing-vessels, especially if wind and tide are both against them. At the S.W. entrance to the Dardanelles, scarcely 2½ M. broad, lies a village on the Asiatic side with the ruined fortress of _Kum Kaleh_ (light); opposite, on the _Peninsula of Gallipoli_, the ancient _Thracian Chersonesus_, is the fort of _Sidd el-Bahr Kalesí_. Beyond Kum Kaleh we sight to the S., rising above the marshy plain of the _Mendere Chai_ (_Skamander_), the low hill which was once the site of _Troy_ (near _Hissarlik_), with the débris of the excavations. On the shore, to the W. of the mouth of the stream, lay the landing-place of the Greeks. Passing the site of _Dardanos_ (on the right) we soon reach the narrowest part of the straits (about 1475 yds.), commanded by the _Dardanelles Castles_ built by Mohammed II. in 1470, with their new earthworks. On the European side is the picturesque _Kilid Bahr_ (‘key of the sea’); on the Asiatic side is _Kaleh Sultanieh_ or _Boghaz Hissar_, at the mouth of the _Koja Chai_ (_Rhodios_). Under the protection of the latter lies the town of _Chanak Kalesí_ (‘castle of pots’), usually called =Dardanelles= (pop. 16,700). While the steamer stops for way-leave the potters of the place offer their curiously shaped and painted vases for sale. At the second-narrowest part of the straits (1585 yds.), where they bend to the N.E., once lay the towns of _Sestos_ (left) and _Abydos_ (right), now fort _Nagara Kalesí_ (quarantine station; lighthouse). This was the traditional scene of the romance of Hero and Leander; it was here that Lord Byron swam across in 1810. Xerxes crossed the straits here in 480 B.C., Alexander the Great in 334 B.C., and the Turks in 1357.—On the coast, to the left, is the small plain of _Ægospotamoi_ (now _Karakova Dereh_), off which the Spartans won a decisive victory over the Athenians in 405. Near the N.E. end of the Dardanelles, on the right, lies the village of _Lampsaki_ (_Lampsakos_) amid olive-groves and vineyards. To the left, on the steep projecting coast, is superbly situated the decayed town of _Gallipoli_ (_Kallipolis_, ‘beautiful town’), the first European town captured in 1357 by Suleiman, son of Orkhân (p. 542). The Dardanelles expand into the =Sea of Marmora= (p. xxxiv), the ancient _Propontis_, a basin of comparatively recent origin (extreme depth 4450 ft.), which like the Ægean Sea has been formed by the subsidence of large portions of the earth’s surface. On the Asiatic side, beyond _Kara Burun_ (381 ft.), lies the _Bay of Artaki_, on the N. margin of the ancient Troas. Adjoining the bay is the plain of the _Biga Sher Chai_, the ancient _Granikos_, where in 334 Alexander the Great won his first victory over the Persians. On the coast of ancient _Phrygia_ rises the peninsula of _Kapu Dagh_ (2625 ft.; once _Arktonnesos_ island), flanked by the _Pasha Liman_ islands and _Marmora_ or _Marmara_ (2326 ft.), where white marble for Constantinople has been quarried since ancient times. On the N. coast soon appear the villages of _Sharkiöi_ (once _Peristasis_) and _Hiraklitsa_ (_Heraklea_); then the town of _Rodosto_ (Turk. _Tekirdagh_), and farther on, _Eregli_, the ancient _Perinthos_. To the S. we sight the islet of _Kalolimni_ (689 ft.; _Besbikos_); far beyond it are the _Gulf of Mudania_ (or _Gemlek_) and the town of _Brussa_, at the foot of the Bithynian _Olympos_ (8200 ft.), which is generally capped with snow. Off the beautiful _Gulf of Ismid_ (_Nikomedeia_), to the N.E., lie the =Princes Islands= (_Iles des Princes_; comp. Map, p. 557), the ancient _Demonnesoi_ (Turk. _Kizil Adalar_, ‘red islands’, so called from the colour of their ferruginous rocks). =Prinkipo=, the ancient _Pityusa_ (‘rich in pines’), the largest and most populous of these islands, attracts many excursionists from Constantinople in fine weather (local steamers, see p. 538). On the N. side of the island lies its capital, _Prinkipo_ (Hôt. Giacomo, déj. 5, D. 6 fr.; Hôt. Impérial, and others). Pleasant drive thence (2½ hrs. there and back; 1–2 mejidiehs; or ride, ½–1 mej.) to the highest hill on the S. side of the island, crowned with the old _Monastery of St. George_ (656 ft.; *View). On its way from Constantinople to Prinkipo the steamer first touches at _Proti_ (377 ft.). To the right we see the small island of _Oxia_, the most westerly of the group, to which in 1910 the famous street-dogs of Constantinople were transported, and _Plati_ (‘the flat’), also called ‘Bulwer’s Island’ after an English Ambassador who here built two now ruined castles (19th cent.) in the style of Windsor. The steamer calls also at _Antigoni_ (542 ft.), and _Chalki_ (446 ft.; ‘ore-island’), with a Greek commercial school and a seminary for priests. On the flat European shore, beyond the village of _Küchük Chekmekjeh_ on the lagoon of that name, we sight the Russian war-monument with its gleaming tower, a landmark of Constantinople, rising above the cape of _San Stefano_ (lighthouse). A little later appears _Stambul_. Next, beyond the lighthouse (Phare), is seen the white mosque of Ahmed and the yellow Aya Sophia. On the Asiatic coast, on the promontory which runs out into the beautiful _Bay of Moda_, there is situated, in the ancient _Bithynia_, _Fanar Burnu_ or _Fener Bagcheh_ (lighthouse). Beyond, it is _Kadikiöi_ (Kadi Keuï), a modern suburb of Constantinople, on the site of _Kalchedon_ or _Chalcedon_. Farther on are the little harbour of _Haidar Pasha_ (p. 557), the station of the Anatolian railway, and, at the S. end of _Scutari_ (p. 556), the military school of medicine, the large Selimieh Barracks, and the Selimieh Mosque. The steamer now rounds the Seraglio Point and enters the _Bosporus_ (p. 557); it passes the Golden Horn, the harbour of Constantinople, and the New Bridge, and casts anchor at the Galata Quay below Pera. Landing, see below. The DIRECT STEAMERS from Athens to Constantinople steer from the _Straits of Doro_ (p. 529) to the N.N.E. for Tenedos (p. 533). In clear weather we descry to the right the distant _Chios_ (p. 492) and _Psara_ (p. 529), and to the left _Skyros_ (2608 ft.), the S.E. island of the _N. Sporades_. On the right we next sight _Mytilini_ (p. 533), and on the left _Hagiostrati_ (971 ft.; _Halonnesos_). From _Tenedos_ to _Constantinople_, see p. 533. 81. Constantinople.[9] ARRIVAL BY SEA. The French, German, and Rumanian (RR. 76, 82) steamers are berthed at the Galata Quay (Pl. H, I, 4), near the Dogana or Douane. Passengers of the French and German steamers have to pay pier-dues (1st class 5½, 2nd cl. 3½ s. pias). The Austrian, Italian, and Egyptian steamers also, on their arrival from the Black Sea, are mostly moored at the quay, but when coming from the S. they usually anchor in front of it, at the entrance of the Golden Horn (landing or embarkation, with baggage, 2 fr. or 10 pias.). The porters (hamáls, mostly Kurds) of the Harbour Co. receive 5 pias. and a gratuity of 1 pias. for conveying baggage from the quay to the hotels. All trouble with boatmen and porters is avoided by applying at once to the guides (dragomans) or hotel-agents. [Illustration: CONSTANTINOPLE] Footnote 9: In the following description the transcripts ö and ü have approximately the German value, or the French of eu and u respectively. =Money.= The _Turkish Pound_ (_lira_), worth about 23 fr. or 18_s._ 5_d._, is divided into 100 piastres. There are gold coins of ¼, ½, 1, 2½, and 5 pounds. The commonest coins are _Silver Piastres_ (s. pias.; coins of 5, 10, and 20 s. pias.), but at the government, railway, and steamboat offices, in the tobacco-shops, and on the tramways they suffer a slight loss (5 s. pias. = 4¾, 10 s. pias. = 9½, 20 s. pias. = 19 piastres in gold). The piastre (worth 2⅒_d._) is called _Gurúsh_ in Turkish (_grosi_ in Greek), the five-piastre piece is a _Cheïrek_ (or simply ‘franc’), the twenty-piastre piece (about 3_s._ 6_d._) is a _Mejidieh_. A piastre is divided into 40 parts called _Paras_; the commonest para-coins are the thinly silvered bronze _Metalliks_ of 10 paras (about ½_d._); there are others of 5, 20, 50, and 100 paras. New nickel coins of 1 pias., 20, 10, and 5 paras will in 1912 be brought into circulation. A French or Greek silver franc passes in ordinary traffic for 4½ s. pias., and the Napoleon (the most popular of foreign coins) for 95 s. pias. (but the money-changers usually give 93 s. pias. only). The average exchange for an English sovereign is 120 s. pias.; for bank and circular notes the exchange is rather higher. French banknotes can be exchanged only at the banks. Small change, of which there is always a scarcity, is obtained at the banks (p. 539) or at the money-changers, the current rate of exchange being ascertained beforehand. Worn-out coins may be exchanged at the Banque Ottomane. Accounts are still kept in the provinces in ‘bad (_chürük_) piastres’; of these there are silver coins worth 1¼, 2½, and 5 pias., and copper coins of 1¼ and 2½ pias.—The Turkish pound contains 178 bad piastres, the mejidieh 33, and the silver piastre 1⅔. A pound sterling is therefore worth about 209 bad piastres, a shilling about 10½, and a franc 8⅓. =Turkish Numbers=: 1, bir; 2, ikí; 3, ütsh; 4, dört; 5, besh; 6, altí; 7, yedí; 8, sekíz; 9, dokuz; 10, on; 11, on bir; 20, yirmí; 25, yirmí besh; 30, otuz; 40, kirk; 50, elí; 100, yüz; 1000, bin. ‘Katsh pará’, how many paras? ‘Besh gurúsh’, five piastres. Baggage and passports (p. xvii) are examined in the ‘Salon’ or Bureau des Passeports. The importation of weapons and ammunition and of tobacco and cigarettes is prohibited. Cigars, however, if declared, are admitted at an ad valorem duty of 75 per cent. On showing their passports passengers must state where they intend to reside; the passports are then stamped and returned to them. On leaving the country passports are again examined (_visés_ by consul, p. 539); so also is luggage, to prevent exportation of antiquities. On leaving the Salon each passenger has to pay the Harbour Co. 5 pias. in gold, also 1 pias. for each trunk and ½ pias. for each piece of hand-luggage. The =Station= (Pl. H, 5; Buffet, on the side for departure; Rail. Restaurant opposite) of the Oriental Railway is at Stambul, 7 min. to the S.E. of the New Bridge (p. 545).—The clock, which gives E. European time, is an hour in advance of mid-European time. As the officials understand French, the services of the hotel-agents may be dispensed with.—Small articles of luggage are examined at the frontier-station Mustapha Pasha, registered luggage in the hall of arrival, and passports at the exit.—_Porter_ to hotel 11 pias.—_Cab_ from station to hotel 20–25 pias., incl. bridge-toll of 2½ pias. (from quay to hotel 10 pias.; tariff, see p. 538). =Hotels= (all at Pera; charges should be agreed upon beforehand). PERA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; H, 3), near the public gardens of the Petits Champs (p. 544), R. 10 fr. 10 c.–20 fr., B. 2 fr. 10, déj. 5 fr. 25, D. 6 fr. 30, pens. 20 fr. 60–30 fr. 60 c. (charges 3–4 fr. lower from 15th June to 1st Sept.); HÔT. TOKATLIAN, Grande Rue de Péra 180, recently rebuilt, with restaurant and café (see below), R. from 6½, B, 1½, déj. 4½, D. 5½, pens. from 15 fr., well spoken of.—HÔT. BRISTOL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 14 fr. (with dépendance GR.-HÔT. MISSIRI, Grande Rue de Péra 128, plain); HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. b; H, 2), also opposite Petits Champs, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12½ fr.; HÔT. BERLINER HOF (Royal & d’Angleterre; Pl. c, H, 2), near the garden of the British Embassy, R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 15 (out of season, 12) fr.; HÔT. CONTINENTAL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 3), R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–20 fr.; HÔT. KRŒCKER (Pl. e; H, 3), Rue Kabristan 36–40, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 9–16 fr. _Second Class_: KHEDIVIAL PALACE HOTEL (Pl. f; H, 3), Grande Rue de Péra, R. 4–6, pens. 10–12 fr.; HÔT. GRANDE BRETAGNE, Rue Vénédik, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 6–10 fr.; HÔT. ST. PÉTERSBOURG, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), rooms only (from 2 fr.); CONSTANTINOPLE PALACE HOTEL, Grande Rue de Péra (Pl. H, 2), R. 3–5, B. 1–1½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 7–12 fr.; HÔT. PAULICK, same street, adjoining the Russian Embassy (Pl. H, 3), R. 2¼–6, unpretending; HÔT. RUBIN, R. from 2 fr. =Restaurants= (European cuisine; _à la carte_). AT PERA. *_Tokatlian_, at the hotel of that name (see above); _Janni_ (Brasserie Viennoise), Grande Rue de Péra 396; _Nicoli_ (Brass. Suisse), same street, No. 380; _Restaurant Lebon_, same street, No. 434; _Restaurant Anzière_, near the Baluk Bazaar (p. 545), D. 15 pias., well spoken of; restaurants in summer in the gardens of the _Petits Champs_, in winter in the winter-theatre (concerts).—AT GALATA. _Restaurant ‘D.D.’_, dinner only, well spoken of.—AT STAMBUL. _Railway Restaurant_ (see above), with garden, well spoken of; _Tokatlian_, in the Great Bazaar. =Cafés.= _Tokatlian_ and _Lebon_, see above; also in the _Public Grounds at Pera_, in the _Taxim Park_ (Pl. I, 1), and others in the Grande Rue de Péra.—There are _Turkish Cafés_, well shaded, opposite the Aya Sophia and in the small public garden there (Pl. H, 7); also at the piers of the local steamers, etc.; small cup of coffee 20 paras. Those at Galata should be avoided.—CONFECTIONERS. _Tokatlian_, _Lebon_, see p. 537; _Mulassier_, Grande Rue de Péra, cor. of Rue de Pologne. =Cabs= (_araba_). It is best to fix the fare beforehand according to the tariff. Drive of ¼ hr. 5, of 25 min. 7½, and of 40 min. 10 pias.; 1 hr. 15, each addit. hr. 10 pias.; two hours after sunset charges are raised by one-quarter and from midnight till sunrise by one-third; for the whole day 80 pias.—HORSES (_at_, _begir_) at Top Haneh, near the Yedikuleh station, etc.; 5–10 pias. per hour, according to bargain (and small gratuity to horse-boy). =Tramways= (comp. Plan; electric lines under construction). Most of the cars have two classes and a compartment for Turkish women. Fare 30–60 or 40–80 paras according to class (printed on the tickets in French). The passenger states his destination or names the station nearest to it.—=1.= _Galata_ (at lower end of Yüksek Kaldirim, Pl. H, 4) to Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; 40 or 60 paras), Taxim (Pl. I, 2), and _Shishli_ (to the N. of Pl. I, 1).—=2.= _Asab Kapu_ (Pl. G, 3; at the Old Bridge) to Galata (Pl. H, 4), Top Haneh (Pl. I, 3), Kabatash (Pl. K, 2), Dolma Bagcheh, Beshiktash, and _Ortakiöi_ (p. 558).—=3.= _Emin Önu_ (Pl. H, 5; at S. end of New Bridge) to Sirkeji (rail. stat.), So-uk Cheshmeh, Kapu (Museum), Aya Sophia (Pl. H, 7), Chemberli Tash (Colonne Brûlée; Pl. G, 6), Sultan Bayazid (Pl. G, 6), Ak Seraï (Pl. D, E, 6; change cars), and _Top Kapu_ (Pl. B, 4).—=4.= _Ak Seraï_ (Pl. D, E, 6) to _Yedikuleh_ (Pl. A, 9). =Tunnel Railway=, the chief means of communication between the New Bridge and Pera; lower station (Pl. H, 4) at Galata, Rue Yéni Djami; upper station (Pl. H, 3), in the Place du Tunnel at Pera. Cars every 5 min.; 30 or 20 paras; book of 10 tickets, 2nd cl., 5 pias. =Local Steamers= (comp. inset maps on the Plan; time-tables in the newspapers; ply till sunset). =a.= On the GOLDEN HORN, to _Eyúb_, from the pier (Pl. H, 4) to the W. of the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ¼ hr. till sunset; tickets (to Eyúb 30 paras; 20 paras more for cushioned seat) on the pier. Mid-stations, see p. 555. In spring and summer smaller steamers ply between Eyúb and _Kiathaneh_ (Sweet Waters, p. 556; 40 paras).—=b.= On the BOSPORUS, from the pier (Pl. H, 5) at the S. end of the New Bridge, to the E., where tickets are obtained (to Büyükdereh in 1½ hr.; fare 160 or 100 paras, plus a tax of 10 paras). There are three lines: European coast, Asiatic coast, and Zigzag, recognizable by green, or red, or red and green flags.—=c.= To SCUTARI, from the third pier to the left (E.; Pl. H, 4), coming from the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ½ hr.; fare 50 or 30 paras; to PRINKIPO (p. 535), from the first pier to the left, five or six times daily in summer, in 2 hrs.; fare 160 or 100 paras.—=d.= On the SEA OF MARMORA (no piers), from the Stambul Quay (Pl. H, 5) vià Kum Kapu (Pl. G, 7), Yeni Kapu (Pl. E, 8), and Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) to the suburbs of Makrikiöi and _San Stefano_ (p. 535). =Boats= (no tariff; bargain necessary). To or from steamers, see p. 537; otherwise 10 pias. per hour. Ferry, by one of the long flat-bottomed _Caïques_, with one rower, to Stambul 1–2 pias., to Eyúb or Scutari, about 10 pias., with two rowers 15 pias.; per hour 15 pias. =Post Offices.= _British_ (Pl. H, 4); _Turkish International_, Rue Voïvode in Galata (Pl. H, 4), Grande Rue de Péra, opposite the Galata Seraï, near the Yeni Valideh Jami (Pl. H, 5) in Stambul, and at the railway-station. France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Russia also have their own post-offices. French is generally understood. Postage within Turkey ½–2 pias. for 10 grammes, post-card 20 paras; foreign letters 1 pias. per 20 grammes. =Telegraph Offices.= The _Turkish International Post Offices_ (see above) send telegrams to foreign countries as well as within Turkey. _Eastern Telegraph Co._, at the Turkish post-office, Grande Rue de Péra (see above), for foreign parts (to Great Britain each word 66 c.). =Steamboat Agents= (offices mostly behind the custom-house at Galata; comp. Pl. H, 4). _Messageries Maritimes_, Mumhaneh Street; _N. Paquet & Co._, T. Reboul; _Società Nazionale_, Barboro, Cité Française: _North German Lloyd_, Mewes, Mumhaneh Street, Charab Iskelessi 7–9; _German Levant Line_, Mehemed Ali Pasha-Han; _Austrian Lloyd_, Mumhaneh Street; _Khedivial Mail_, Silley, Galata Quay, Meimanetli Han; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Petcheneff, Kiretsh Kapu; _Rumanian State Maritime Service_, Galata Quay.—=Tourist Agents=, _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue Kabristan 12, opposite Pera Palace Hotel. =Guides.= The _International Courier’s and Guides Office_, near the Pera Palace Hotel (p. 537), provides reliable guides (10 fr. per day for Constantinople and its environs, including the Bosporus). =Embassies and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN: Ambassador, _Right Hon. Sir G. A. Lowther_ (office, Pl. H, 2; in summer at Therapia). Consul-General, _H. Eyres_ (office, Pl. H, 4); consul, _A. T. Waugh_; vice-consul, _W. S. Edmonds_.—UNITED STATES: Ambassador, _O. S. Straus_ (office, Pl. I, 2). Consul-General, vacat; vice-consul, _O. S. Heizer_. =Physicians.= English, German, and others (addresses at the hotels or at the chemists’).—=Chemists.= In the Grande Rue de Péra, _Ehrlich_, No. 579; _Canzuch & Giannetti_, No. 247; _Matkowitsch_, No. 420; _Della Sudda_, No. 298; _Liechtenstein_, Helvaji Street, Galata. =Baths= at the hotels.—Addresses of _Turkish Baths_ may be obtained at the hotels.—SEA BATHS at the European places on the Bosporus. =Banks.= _Banque Ottomane_, Rue Voïvode, Galata, and Grande Rue de Péra 407, with exchange offices; _Crédit Lyonnais_, near the New Bridge, Galata; also _German_, _German Orient_, _Vienna_, and others.—MONEY CHANGERS (_sarráf_) abound in the Rue Karakeuï (Pl. H, 4; p. 543), Grande Rue de Péra, etc. =Booksellers.= _Economic Book Store_, Passage du Tunnel; _O. Keil_, No. 457, and _S. H. Weiss_, No. 481 Grande Rue de Péra.—NEWSPAPERS (¼ pias.). _Levant Herald_, with Engl. and Fr. editions; _Le Stamboul_, _Moniteur Oriental_, French; _Osmanische Lloyd_, German and French. All have steamboat and other time-tables and notices. =Photographs & Picture Post Cards.= All in Grande Rue de Péra, _Fruchtermann_, No. 335; _Keil_, No. 457; _Sébah & Joaillier_, No. 439; _Berggren_, No. 414 (line views of the city and environs). Photographic materials sold by _Caracache Frères_, Nos. 675 and 398, and _Weinberg_, No. 467. =Theatre= in the grounds of the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2).—A BAND plays on summer evenings in the same grounds and in the Taxim Park (Pl. I, 1); adm. 1–2 pias. =Churches.= _Church of England_, at the chapel of the British Embassy (Pl. H, 2), during summer at Therapia (see p. 559); _Christ Church_ (Pl. H, 3), in the Rue Yazidji; _Presbyterian Church_, in the chapel of the Dutch Legation, Rue des Postes, near the Grande Rue (Pl. H, 3). =Sights.= _Antiquities, Collection of_, see New Museum. _Bazaar, Great_ (p. 551), best visited early; closed 1 hr. before sunset; Frid., Sat., and Sun. are respectively Moslem, Jewish, and Christian holidays. Inexperienced travellers may bring a guide or the dragoman of their hotel (but see p. xxvi). Large purchases may be sent home by a goods-agent. _Beylerbey Seraï_ (p. 558), adm. as in the case of the Seraglio. _Chinili Kiosque_ (p. 547), see under New Museum. _Egyptian Bazaar_ (_Missir Charshi_; p. 545), as the Great Bazaar. _Galata Tower_ (p. 543), all day, 5 pias. (custodian with light, 2 pias.). _Mosques_ (Turk. _Jami_; very small, _mesjid_), all open to Christians till sunset; during Ramadan, the Moslem month of fasting, they are gorgeously lighted and then open in the evening also (comp. p. 549). At the inner door the sacristan provides overshoes, or visitors may take off their own. Hats also are removed (comp. p. xxv). There is no charge for admission but it is usual to give the sacristan a fee of 5 pias. per person (less for a party) for the loan of overshoes.—The _Tomb Chapels_ (Turk, _türbeh_) are open on similar conditions; fee 1–5 pias., according to their importance. _Museum, Janissaries’_ (p. 550), all day, 3 pias.—_Military Museum_, in the Church of Irene (p. 548), Sun., Tues., & Thurs. 10–4.—_New Museum_ (p. 546), daily except Frid., 9–5, in winter 10–3, adm. 5 pias.; tickets available for the Chinili Kiosque also. _Seraglio Palace_ (p. 548). The consulates, to which application should be made a few days beforehand, arrange for visits to the _Treasury_ and part of the old Seraglio on Sun & Tues. (small fee). _Türbeh_, see under Mosques. TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, *_Galata Tower_ (p. 543), _Yeni Valideh Jami_ (p. 545), *_New Museum_ (p. 546), _Chinili Kiosque_ (p. 547); afternoon, trip on the *_Bosporus_ (p. 557), or to _Scutari_ (p. 556); summer evening in the _Gardens of the Petits Champs_ (p. 544) or the _Taxim Park_ (p. 544).—2nd. Forenoon, *_Aya Sophia_ (p. 548), _At Meïdán_ (p. 549), *_Great Bazaar_ (p. 551), *_Suleiman Mosque_ (p. 552); afternoon, _Land-Wall_ (p. 553); _Eyúb_ (pp. 555, 556); _Serasker Tower_ (p. 551).—Visitors should be on their guard against pickpockets, especially in Galata and Pera. _Constantinople_, Turk. _Stambul_ or _Stamboul_, Ital. _Costantinopoli_, Slav. _Tsarigrad_ (emperor’s town), capital of the Turkish empire and residence of the Sultan (since 1909 Mohammed V., b. 1844; successor of Abdul Hamid, p. 544), is the seat of the government (the ‘Sublime Porte’), and also of the Sheikh ul-Islam, of the patriarchs of the Greek and Armenian churches, and of a papal legate. It lies on the Sea of Marmora, at the mouth of the Bosporus, in 41° N. lat. and 28° 58′ E. longitude. The CITY consists of several distinct quarters. _Stambul_, in the narrower sense, forms a nearly equilateral triangle between the Golden Horn (p. 555) and the Sea of Marmora; to the N.E., on the slopes of the opposite bank of the Golden Horn and on the adjacent shore of the Bosporus, lie the Frank quarters of _Galata_ and _Pera_ and their suburbs; and to the E., on the gently sloping Asiatic shore of the Bosporus, lies the Turkish town of _Scutari_ with its suburbs. According to recent estimates Constantinople contains 1,125,000 inhab. (or, without the Asiatic quarters, 943,000), incl. about 500,000 Turks, more than 200,000 Greeks, 180,000 Armenians, 65,000 Jews, mostly Spanish (see p. 542), and 70,000 Europeans. The foreign residents are said to number 130,000. The SITUATION of Constantinople has justly won the admiration of all ages. The vast city of Stambul curving over the slopes between the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn, the suburbs on the Bosporus, its green banks studded with villages, palaces, and mosques, the Golden Horn with its busy bridges and its countless vessels, all combine to form a picture of matchless beauty. The CLIMATE of Constantinople, which lies in the same latitude as Naples (p. 137), is unsettled and comparatively cool. During the greater part of the year the city is exposed to N.E. winds from the Siberian steppes, which sweep through the Bosporus and in winter occasionally bring snow. The best season for a visit is autumn (end of Sept. to beginning of Nov.). The summer, however, is usually fine and not unbearably hot, the coolest places being those on the Bosporus, a little to the N., which are sheltered from the due S. winds (as Therapia, Büyükdereh, etc.). The mean temperature of the year is 57½° Fahr., that of the hottest month (Aug.) 74°, and that of the coldest (Feb.) 41°. The rainfall averages 28¾ in. HISTORY. Attracted by the striking advantages of the site, at the junction of two great portions of the globe and on the great water highway between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, the Dorians founded the colony of =Byzantium=, about 660 B.C., on the promontory (Seraglio Point, p. 536) commanding the entrance to the Bosporus. This colony, however, like the towns on the coast of Asia Minor, was unable to withstand the attacks of the Persians; when _Darius I._ crossed the Bosporus in his campaign against the Scythians the Byzantines were compelled to supply him with ships; and their town was afterwards destroyed by the Persians for taking part in the Ionian revolt. The long but somewhat weak alliance of Byzantium with Athens was succeeded by closer bonds when the town was threatened by _Philip of Macedonia_. Being hard pressed by _Phokion_ Philip was compelled to raise the siege of the town (340–339). Under _Alexander the Great_ and his successors Byzantium maintained its autonomy, but in 278 it suffered seriously from an attack by the Gauls (‘Galatians’) settled in Thrace. In the wars against _Philip III. of Macedonia_ Byzantium became the natural ally of Rome, and this alliance continued to subsist under the earlier Roman emperors. In 193–6 _Septimius Severus_ besieged the town to punish it for siding with the rival emperor Pescennius Niger, and deprived it of its liberties and privileges; but he afterwards rebuilt the walls, regarding it as an important bulwark of the empire. In 269 _Emp. Claudius II._ here repelled the attacks of the _Goths_ when they attempted to force their way south from the Danube. Having become master of the whole empire by the capture of Byzantium in 324 _Emp. Constantine_ chose it as his new capital on account of its admirable situation on the threshold of the East. In 330 it was officially styled New Rome, but soon became generally known as =Constantinopolis=. Enclosed by Constantine’s new walls it now extended to the W. to the region of the present Old Bridge (Pl. F, 4) and of Psamatia (Pl. B, C, 8). The Romans retained the old division of the city into fourteen regions, and they even found in it their seven hills again. The environs as far as the 7th milestone (hebdomon), called the exokionion, were assigned to the seven milliarii of the Gothic body-guard. Under _Arcadius_, in 395, Constantinople became the capital of the new E. Roman empire. The rapid increase of the population and the necessity of defending it against the attacks of the _Huns_ and _Goths_ induced _Anthemius_, regent during the minority of _Theodosius II._ (408–50), to build the new Theodosian town-walls, ½–1¼ M. to the W. of those of Constantine. In 439 sea-walls along the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn were added, and after 447, in consequence of an attack by Attila and to repair the damage done by an earthquake, the land-walls were restored and strengthened. Byzantium attained the zenith of its prosperity under _Justinian_ (527–65). He rebuilt the city, after its almost entire destruction in 532 during the rebellion of the circus parties (Nika revolt), in a far grander style, and on the site of Constantine’s basilica founded the famous church of St. Sophia. In the form of Byzantine civilization antique culture survived until the middle ages, although finally in a merely torpid state. This Byzantine development, with its Greek language and independent Oriental church under the patriarchal government at Constantinople, was an outcome of the late Greek (‘Hellenistic’) and Roman culture. After the time of Justinian the empire was shaken to its foundations by intestine disorders and foreign wars. The attacks of the _Avars_ and _Persians_ (627) were succeeded by the irruption of the _Arabs_ under the Omaiyades (p. 485), who in 673–8 and 717–8 besieged Constantinople by sea and by land. About the same time the _Bulgarians_ founded an independent kingdom in the Balkan peninsula, and they too (in 813 and 924) attacked the city. Russian fleets forced their way into the Sea of Marmora in 860 and 1048. Economically, too, Constantinople was on the wane; from the 11th cent. onwards the _Seljuks_ were gaining ground in Asia Minor, and the Italian maritime cities were rapidly acquiring wealth and power. The quarrels of aspirants to the throne during the Angelos dynasty led in 1204 to the capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders and to the foundation of a new western or ‘Latin’ empire. In 1261 the Greek emperor _Michael Palaeologos_, who resided at Nikæa, succeeded in driving the Franks out of Constantinople with the aid of the Genoese, to whom he presented Galata (see below) as a reward. But the Turkish peril came ever nearer. The _Osmans_, having conquered Asia Minor in the 13th cent., crossed the Dardanelles (comp. p. 534) under _Orkhân_ in 1357, and under _Murad I._, in 1361, made Adrianople the residence of the sultans instead of Brussa. They were weakened for a time by the attacks of Timur (p. 485), but in 1411 and 1422 they proceeded to besiege Constantinople. After a heroic defence by _Constantine XI. Palaeologos_, the last Greek emperor, the city was at length captured in 1453 by _Mohammed II._ (Mehemed el-Fatih, ‘the conqueror’), and under the name of =Stambul= became the capital of the Osmans. Its fortunes were now at their lowest ebb; it was almost entirely depopulated and reduced to ruins, as had been its fate when captured by the Crusaders in 1204. But soon Turkish settlers from all quarters thronged to the new capital, and many Christians also, their lives and religion being safeguarded, while numerous Jews banished from Spain in 1492 found a new home here and have retained their old language and characteristics ever since. The building enterprise of the Turkish sultans, especially of _Selim I._ (1512–20), the conqueror of Syria, Mesopotamia, and Egypt, and of _Suleiman the Great_ (1520–66), as well as of the Turkish magnates, was directed exclusively to public edifices. They erected mosques (p. 539) on the model of the earlier church of the Apostles and of the Aya Sophia (or church of St. Sophia), tomb-chapels (p. 539), bazaars and warehouses (_han_), and baths and fountains (_sebil_, with running water; _cheshmeh_, draw-well). In the midst of these sumptuous buildings lay a labyrinth of crooked streets and lanes, the brightly painted timber houses with their grated balconies (kafehs) being often of one story only, while here and there this strange sea of houses was relieved by gardens and burial-grounds. To some extent, notwithstanding destructive fires (as in 1865 and 1908) and earthquakes (the last in 1894), the old Oriental characteristics of the city still survive in the old town of _Stambul_, the chief seat of the Oriental merchants and the petty traders, and also at Scutari (p. 556). _Galata_, on the other hand, the centre of the European trade, is much like an Italian seaport-town. Above it, to the N., lies _Pera_, a suburb which sprang up in the 19th cent., and which, since a great fire in 1870, has been almost entirely rebuilt in quite European fashion. Of BOOKS on Constantinople may be mentioned: _Grosvenor_, Constantinople (2 vols., London, 1895); _W. H. Hutton_, Constantinople in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1900); and _Van Millingen_, Byzantine Constantinople, The Walls, etc. (London, 1899). a. Galata and Pera. =Galata=, the oldest suburb of Constantinople, rises on the slope of a plateau on the N. side of the entrance to the Golden Horn (p. 555), corresponding with the 13th region of the city of Constantine (p. 541). In the middle ages it was usually called _Peira_. Its inhabitants are chiefly Greeks and Armenians. In 1304 the Genoese (see above) enclosed it with a wall, and down to 1453 held an almost independent position under their own rulers (podestà). The wall was often rebuilt and was at last removed (1864). Behind the GALATA QUAY (Pl. H, I, 4), constructed in 1879–95, lies a labyrinth of narrow and dirty streets, extending to the other side of the GRAND RUE DE GALATA (p. 545), the chief thoroughfare to the N.E. suburbs. At the S.W. end of the latter are the still busier RUE DE KARAKEUÏ (Pl. H, 4), beside the New Bridge (p. 545), and the Place Karakeuï. where the _Exchange_ rises on the left. In the old-fashioned W. quarter of Galata are the ruinous _Palace of the Podestà_ (in the Pershembeh Bazaar, Pl. H, 4) and the _Arab Jami_ (Pl. G, 4), the oldest mosque in the city, which was founded at the time of the Arab attacks (717). Near it is the _Yanik Kapu_, an old Genoese gateway. A little farther on, near the Old Bridge (p. 552), is the _Asab Kapu Jami_ (Pl. G, 3, 4), erected by Sinán (p. 552), adjoining which is a beautiful *_Sebíl_ (p. 542), with gilded railings and far projecting timber roof (18th cent.). From the Old Bridge Pera is reached by the broad Rue Iskander (Pl. G, 3), and from the New Bridge by the steep and dirty YÜKSEK KALDIRIM (Pl. H, 3, 4), partly in steps (and also by the tunnel or by tramway No. 1; p. 538). On the boundary between Galata and Pera, a little to the W. of the N. end of the Yüksek Kaldirim, rises the =Galata Tower= (Pl. H, 3; 148 ft. high), now entirely modernized, the ascent of which (p. 539) forms the best introduction to a walk through the city. It marks the spot where the new land-walls on the E. and W. sides of Galata met in 1348. We mount 143 steps to the room of the fire-watchmen, and 72 more to the three upper stories. The *PANORAMA from the fourteen windows of the watchmen’s room embraces Galata with the buildings on the quay; to the N.E. is the Jihangir Mosque (p. 544); opposite, on the Asiatic coast, to the extreme left is the palace of Beylerbey (p. 558); farther to the S. is Scutari, dominated by the Great and Little Bulgurlu (p. 557). To the S.E. lie the Princes Islands (p. 535); to the S., above the S. coast of the Sea of Marmora, rises the Bithynian Olympos (p. 535). With the aid of the Plan of the city we may easily locate the chief buildings of Stambul, from the Aya Sophia and the Ahmed Mosque with its six minarets, to the S., round to the Great Bazaar with its numerous little domes, to the Place d’Armes (Séraskier-Kapou), with the great tower, the barracks, and the Suleiman Mosque, to the Mihrimah Mosque, and to the Byzantine city-wall at the extreme N. end of Stambul. At our feet lies the Golden Horn, with the two bridges and the naval harbour. In the distance, to the N.W., peeps the mosque of Eyúb (see inset map in Plan of city). The modern streets of =Pera=, the European quarter, run to the N.W. from the Galata Tower, between old Turkish cemeteries and large gardens, across the whole hill. The embassies to the Sublime Porte, the European churches, schools, hospitals, and shops also are situated here. The GRANDE RUE DE PÉRA (Pl. H, I, 3, 2), the continuation of Yüksek Kaldirim, passes the _Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes_ (Tekkeh; Pl. H, 3), whose strange performances may be witnessed on Fridays (except during Ramadan), usually from 7.30 to 8.30 Turkish time (4½–3½ hrs. before sunset; adm. 5 pias.). We may now cross the Place du Tunnel, past the upper station of the tunnel railway (Pl. H, 3; p. 538), and follow Rue Kabristan (or one of the narrow streets to the left, farther to the N., such as the Rue Vénédik) to the— =Public Grounds of tho Petits Champs= (Pl. H, 3, 2), near the _British Embassy_ (Pl. H, 2) and the chief hotels (p. 537). They afford a beautiful view of Stambul and the Golden Horn, and are a favourite resort in the afternoon and evening (concerts, see p. 539). We return, to the N.E., by Rue Tepé Bachi to the Grande Rue de Péra, whence the Rue Yéni Teharchi leads to the S.E., past the _Galata Seraï_ (Pl. H, 2; Imper. Lyceum), to Top Haneh. Our street ends, at the N.W. end of Pera, at the PLACE DU TAXIM (Pl. 1, 2). Here on the right, adjoining the Kishla Jaddesí, are the _Artillery Barracks_, one of the chief scenes of conflict on 25th April 1909 when the Young Turks fought their way into the city, and the *=Taxim Park= (Pl. I, 1; band, see p. 539), and on the left a large esplanade. From the Place du Taxim we may ascend the Ayas Pasha Boulevard, past the _German Embassy_, or from the Taxim Park the Dolma Bagtché Déré (Pl. K, 1; Dolma-garden valley), past the _Ecuries Impériales_, to PLACE DOLMA BAGTCHÉ DÉRÉ. On the E. side of this square, below the suburb of that name, rises the =Dolma Bagcheh Palace= (pp. 558, 546), of which only the high walls with their superb gateways are seen on the inland side. The sultan repairs hither weekly in solemn procession (‘selamlik’) to Friday prayer (at noon), usually offered in the neighbouring _Valideh Jami_ (mosque of the sultan’s mother; Pl. K, 1, 2). We may now follow the road to the N.E. through the adjacent suburb of _Beshiktash_, where, opposite the steamboat pier, rises the _Türbeh Kheireddin Barbarossa_ (p. 221), which is best viewed from the Bosporus. Farther on are the ruins of the Chiragan Seraï (p. 558). From the pier of Beshiktash a road leads to the N.E. to the =Yildiz Kiosque=, surrounded with barracks and high walls, formerly the residence of the now deposed sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909). The _Palace_ and its _Park_, and the private _Hamidieh Mosque_, built of white marble, are inaccessible. It is now best to return by tramway (No. 2; p. 538) to the large suburb of =Top Haneh= (Pl. I, 3), inhabited chiefly by Turks, with the loftily situated _Jihangir Mosque_ (1553). Here, in the esplanade of the Artillery Arsenal on the Bosporus, are situated the _Mosque of Mahmud II._ (1830) and a fine but now roofless _Well House_ of the time of Ahmed II. (1703–30), resembling the sebíl at the Asab Kapu (p. 543). The _Mosque of Kilij Ali Pasha_ (Pl. I, 3) was built by Sinán (p. 552). We now return to Pera by the Rues Tchoukour Bostan and Yéni Tcharchi (p. 544), or by the GRANDE RUE DE GALATA (Pl. I, H, 3, 4), the busiest international thoroughfare, to Place Karakeuï (p. 543). b. Stambul. From the Rue Karakeuï, in Galata, the =New Bridge= (Pl. H, 4, 5) crosses the Golden Horn (p. 555) to Stambul (toll 10 paras; carr. 2½ pias.). It was originally built of timber in 1845, and called _Sultan Valideh Bridge_ after its founder (the ‘sultan’s mother’), and was rebuilt in 1877. The new iron bridge was begun in 1909. It affords beautiful *Views of Galata and Stambul, of the Bosporus and the Asiatic coast, while its busy and picturesque traffic presents scenes of endless variety. At the S. end of the bridge lies the PLACE EMIN EUNOU (Pl. H, 5), called also _Baluk Bazar_ or fish-market, beyond which rise the fine outlines of the— *=Yeni Valideh Jami= (Pl. H, 5), or ‘new mosque of the sultan’s mother’. Begun in 1615 by _Khoja Kassim_ for the mother of Ahmed I., after the model of Ahmed’s Mosque, and damaged by the great fire of 1660, it was not completed till 1663. In the middle of the outer court are ranged, as in all the larger Turkish mosques, the forecourt (harám) with its three portals, the mosque itself, and the türbeh (p. 539), all turned towards Mecca (to the S.E.). The forecourt, with its two elegant minarets and large wooden roofs above the side-portals, has a remarkably fine octagonal fountain of ablution (shudrivàn) in the centre. Like the Suleïmanieh (p. 552) the mosque is preceded by two colonnades. In the interior the lower wall surfaces and the four massive pillars of the dome are incrusted with bluish-green tiles. The mihrâb wall is connected with the pillars by a gallery; adjoining it, near the mihrâb or prayer-niche itself, are the superb pulpit and the railed-in gallery of the sultan. The adjacent *Private Rooms of the sultan still have their original decoration of fayence tiles and stained glass. The Türbeh contains the sarcophagus of the sultan’s mother and the tombs of five sultans, recognizable by the turban and double heron’s plume. On the W. side of the outer court is the =Missir Charshi= (Pl. G, 5; ‘Egyptian Bazaar’), originally for goods from Egypt, but now a general market, next in importance to the Great Bazaar (p. 551). Among the wares in the open shops of the vaulted street the chief commodities are spices, drugs, and pigments. To the W. of the Egyptian Bazaar, at the foot of Rue Ousoun Tcharchi (p. 551), rises the _Mosque of Rustem Pasha_ (Pl. G, 5), vizier of Suleiman the Great (p. 542) and husband of his daughter Mihrimah (p. 553). It was built by Sinán (p. 552). The interior is noteworthy chiefly for the superb effect produced by its fayence tiles. We follow the tramway (No. 3; p. 538), to the S.E., through the Rue Bagtché Kapou, so named after the old ‘garden-gate’ of Stambul, and the Hamidieh Jaddesi, crossing the broad Bab Ali Jaddesi which leads to the left to the _Railway Station_ (p. 537). Farther on we come to the wall of the Seraglio on the left, and to (10 min.) the _Sublime Porte_ (Pl. H, 6; vizierate and ministry of foreign affairs) on the right. Its central part, which contained the ministry of home affairs and the cabinet was burnt down in Feb. 1911. The =Seraglio= or _Seraï_ (Pl. H-I, 5, 7; now officially called _Top Kapu Seraï_, ‘seraglio of the cannon-gate’), with its neglected garden-terraces and miscellaneous buildings, occupies the site of the Acropolis and oldest streets of Byzantium (p. 541) and the first of the seven hills of New Rome. Within the extensive precincts, enclosed by a pinnacled wall and defended by towers, Mohammed II. in 1468 erected a summer palace, which Suleiman the Great (p. 542) enlarged and made his residence. All the sultans resided here until Abdul Mejíd built the Dolma Bagcheh Palace (1850–5; p. 558). In 1873 the railway was carried through the gardens, past the _Granite Column of Emp. Claudius II._ (268–70 A. D.). Around the palace are grouped the old church of Irene (p. 548), several military and other new buildings, the imperial _Mint_, and the _School of Art_ founded in 1889. From the chief entrance, the _So-uk Cheshmeh Gate_ (Pl. H, 6), we ascend to the right, past the Mint, to the first terrace. A road to the left leads thence, behind the School of Art, to the New Museum, on the right, and the Chinili Kiosque, on the left. The =New Museum= (Pl. I, 6), opened in 1891, contains the imperial **_Collection of Antiquities_, the arrangement of which is still incomplete. Adm., see p. 539. Director, Halil Bey. GROUND FLOOR. The first rooms, on the right and left of the entrance, contain the sarcophagi, including the famous coffins discovered in 1887 in the so-called royal tombs of Sidon (p. 470). The two vaults, in which the rulers of Sidon of the 6–4th cent. B. C. are supposed to have been buried, contained 26 stone coffins, some in the Egyptian form of a mummy, with sculptured heads, others shaped like Greek temples. In several cases their execution is highly artistic. The finest are in (right) Room I: *No. 48. So-called Satrap’s Coffin, of Ionian workmanship (first half of 5th cent.); *49. Sarcophagus of the mourning women, in marble, in the form of a temple, influenced in style by the works of Praxiteles (4th cent.). In (left) Room II: *No. 75. Lycian sarcophagus, with lid in the form of a pointed arch, executed under the fresh influence of the Parthenon reliefs (p. 517); **76. Alexander sarcophagus, an Attic original (about 300 B. C.), with traces of rich colouring; 90. Sarcophagus of Tabnit, king of Sidon, originally that of an Egyptian general (6th cent.). Again, in Room I: No. 1142. Tomb-stele from Nisyros (p. 490; about 500 B.C.); 45. Tomb-stele from Pella, a fine early Greek work like the last; 31–33. Fragments of Roman sarcophagi (Ulysses fighting against the wooers, etc.); also leaden coffins from Beirut, Khoms (p. 412), etc. (Room II contains also six terracotta coffins from Klazomenæ, 6th cent. B. C.). Among the objects in the other rooms we note a large Lycian sarcophagus from Trysa (2nd cent. B. C.); *1179. Late Roman sarcophagus from the region of Konia, with the recumbent figures of man and wife. A large room is devoted solely to the art and inscriptions of the Hittites, the dominating race on the Upper Euphrates, in Syria, and in Asia Minor from about 1500 to 1000 B.C., who were afterwards split up into small principalities and lost their national characteristics. From this later period (about 9–8th cent.) date the numerous objects from Senjerli in N. Syria (among others No. 873. Two sphinxes as a base of a column). Other relics are from Marrash in N. Syria (840. Lion with inscription) and from Albistan (835. Limestone pillar). Two rooms are set apart for the Greek-Roman sculptures. Among the chief early Greek works (6th cent. B.C.) are: No. 5bis. Reliefs from a tombstone in the form of a pillar, with scenes of peace and war; 8, 133. Torso of Apollo and Relief of Hercules drawing his bow, both from Thasos; 680. Tomb-stele from Dorylæum in Phrygia; *78. Head of a man, early Ionian, from Rhodes; 32, 33. Kybele, from Kyme; 1136. Relief, Birth of Athena, from Chalcedon.—Of the 5th cent.: No. 1189. Caryatid; 1433. Hermes Propylæos, after the famous work of Alkamenes (Roman copy); *148. Snake’s head from the tripod in the At Meïdán (p. 549). Among other creations of the Greek golden age (4th cent.) are: No. 1121. Statue of a youth; 114. Upper half of a stele, from Kyzikos; 1242. Relief with a portrait of Euripides; 1028. Relief of a woman playing on the lyre, from Mysia.—Hellenistic sculptures from Pergamum (p. 533): *764. Dancer, from a large circular monument; *1138. Marble head (Alexander the Great?); 72. Marsyas hanging (a good copy); also important: *709. Alexander the Great, from Magnesia on the Sipylos; 685. Colossal head of Zeus, from Troy; 9. Colossal statue of Apollo, from Tralleis; *1423. Relief of a boatman (?), from Tralleis, in the style of the ‘Alexandrine’ reliefs.—Of Roman origin: 31. Largest representation of the so-called Thracian horseman, from a triumphal arch at Saloniki. In the room of the Byzantine antiquities we note No. 164. Statue of the Good Shepherd (3rd cent.?); *1090. Early-Christian pulpit from Saloniki, with the Adoration of the Magi in detached figures; 189, 190. Fragments of a column with scenes with figures (Baptism of Christ, etc.; about 500); also interesting capitals with figures and foliage ornamentation. Two rooms form an Architectural Museum (Asia Minor relics). The FIRST FLOOR is occupied by the Babylonian-Assyrian antiquities (incl. the glazed terracotta sarcophagi from Nippur, and No. 1027. Votive relief of king Narâm-Sin, about 3750 B.C.), the unimportant Egyptian relics, and curiosities from Cyprus (p. 489), Himyar (region of Yemen in S. Arabia), and Palmyra. Then collections of bronzes and trinkets from Schliemann’s excavations at Hissarlik (p. 534), from the Sidonian sarcophagi (p. 546), etc.; vases and terracottas from Asia Minor (Hissarlik, Myrina, Priene), Cos (p. 490), and Rhodes; glass vessels from Asia Minor, Cyprus, Syria, and Tripolitania; also a collection of coins.—The N. wing contains the _Museum Library_. The elegant =Chinili Kiosque= (Pl. I, 6; ‘fayence palace’), one of the oldest Turkish buildings in the city, was erected in 1470 by _Kemal ed-Din_ under Mohammed II., in the Persian style, and was restored in 1590. In 1908 it was converted into an *_Oriental Art Museum_. Adm., see p. 539. The two-storied portico (ticket-office on the left) contains tombstones, etc.—The vestibule, with its original inscribed frieze, is adorned with well-preserved green *Fayence Tiles. The domed hall and five side-rooms contain Arabian, Persian, and Turkish fayence, Turkish pottery, seals (tugres), firmans, and irades of Turkish sultans, woodwork (koran-desks, cabinets, etc.), leather (beautiful book-bindings), and metal work; also cut gems, Arabian and Venetian glass, mosque-lamps, embroidery, and *Persian Carpets. The chief treasures of the collection are the *Prayer Niche from the palace of the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin at Konia (13th cent.) and a throne of Selim I. (p. 512). Passing the Mint (p. 546) we next enter the outer court of the Seraglio. In the centre rises the huge _Janissaries’ Plane Tree_ (Pl. I, 6), where the janissaries (p. 550) used to meet.—To the left the _Orta Kapu_ leads to the _Seraglio Palace_ (adm., see p. 540). It contains the throne-room (Arsh Odasi) of the time of Suleiman the Great, the Library, the Imperial Treasury (hazneh han), and the superb Bagdad Kiosque (1639), etc. Above the outer court rises, on the right, the =Church of Irene= (Pl. I, 6; dedicated to ‘divine peace’), a domed basilica built by Constantine, and restored first by Justinian after the Nika revolt (p. 541), and again in 740. After the Turkish conquest it was used as an arsenal, but is now a _Military Museum_ (adm., see p. 539). We leave the Seraglio by the _Bab i Humayún_ (Pl. I, 6), the superb modern gate of the sultan, replacing that of Mohammed II. In the SERAÏ MEÏDÁN (Pl. I, 6, 7; ‘Seraglio Square’), on the S.W. side of the palace-walls, rises the *_Fountain of Ahmed III._, erected in 1728, the finest sebíl in the city, with a well-preserved timber roof. Nearly opposite are the Aya Sophia and the _Ministry of Justice_ (Pl. H, 1, 7), which was the meeting-place of the new Turkish parliament in 1908–9. The **=Aya Sóphia Mosque= (Pl. H, 7; adm., see p. 539), formerly the church of St. Sophia, 4 min. to the S. of the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (p. 546), is the most famous edifice in the whole city. Here in 326, opposite to his palace, Constantine erected a basilica, which he dedicated to Divine Wisdom (Sophía), and which after a fire in 415 was rebuilt by Theodosius II. The church having again been destroyed during the Nika rebellion, Justinian caused the present sumptuous edifice, which was to eclipse all others in the empire, to be erected in 532–7 by _Anthemios_ of Tralleis and _Isidoros_ of Miletos. The plan of the building is nearly square. Its axis, contrary to custom, runs to the E.S.E., in line with that of the palace. It measures 82½ by 77 yds., but if the atrium or forecourt had still existed the length would have been no less than 184 yds. The edifice with its nave and aisles presents a curious combination of an ancient Christian basilica with a dome-covered mosque. Above the nave, which is 36 yds. in breadth, the great dome, 105 ft. in diameter and 184 ft. in height, but externally inconspicuous, rises on four massive pillars. It is continued lengthwise by two half-domes, relieved by niches, the large E. central niche forming the apse. The upper story of the aisles, borne by antique columns with capitals resembling imposts, and the galleries above the inner vestibule contained the gynæceum, or women’s seats. The Crusaders pillaged the church in 1204 (p. 542), and many of its treasures were carried off also at the Turkish conquest. The mosaics were whitewashed, the minaret at the S.E. angle was erected, and the unsightly flying buttresses were added on the E. side. To the further detriment of the general effect the successors of the conqueror built the other three minarets, the mausoleums, schools, and outbuildings. A thorough restoration was undertaken by _Fossati_, an Italian architect, in 1847, when the outside was painted yellow with red stripes. The entrance for visitors is in the N. side-street, by a door to the left of the N.W. minaret. A few steps descend to the INNER VESTIBULE (eso-narthex), from which five doors open on the outer vestibule (exo-narthex) and nine portals lead into the interior. At the S. end of the inner vestibule, opposite the N. entrance, is a Byzantine *Bronze Door (9th cent.), with part of the original panels. The northmost portal admits us to the *INTERIOR, in which the immense central dome, in contrast to St. Peter’s at Rome, dominates the entire nave. The marble pavement is partly destroyed and partly covered with carpets and mats spread obliquely in the direction of Mecca (S.E.). The mihrâb or prayer-recess has been placed, for the same reason, a little to the S. of the axis of the apse. Beside the pillars of the apse are, on the right, the mimbar, or Friday pulpit, and on the left the octagonal grated gallery of the sultan, resting on eight antique columns. The nave contains several open galleries or tribunes for prayer-recitals. The Koran niche in the S. aisle also is worth seeing. (Visitors should be careful not to touch anything.) During the nights of Ramadan (p. 539) visitors are admitted only to the galleries, which the sacristan will show at other times. On the S. side of the mosque, adjoining the Aya Sophia Meïdán, rise five TÜRBEHS, or burial-chapels of sultans. The southmost, once the baptistery of the church, dates perhaps from Justinian’s reign. The AYA SÓPHIA MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7), a busy square planted with trees, on the S. side of the mosque, was the ancient _Augusteion_ (or Agorá), the greatest centre of traffic in New Rome, whence the triumphal road led to the Golden Gate (p. 554). Down to the Turkish conquest it was adorned with a mounted statue of Justinian. Adjoining it on the S.W. lies the AT MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7; ‘horse square’), 330 yds. long, partly occupying the site of a _Hippodrome_ begun by Sept. Severus (p. 541) and completed by Constantine. From these two squares, and from the Seraï Meïdán (p. 548), the Roman and Byzantine imperial palaces, with their dependencies and several churches, extended to the S.E. to the town-wall on the Sea of Marmora. At the N. angle of At Meïdán, where Rue Divan Yolou (p. 550) diverges, lies a small _Public Garden_. Farther on, to the S.W., passing a _Street Fountain_ presented by Emp. William II. in 1898, we come to three ancient monuments which still occupy their old places on the spina of the Hippodrome (comp. p. 348). One is the _Obelisk of Theodosius I._, dating from the time of Thutmosis III. (p. 456; brought from Heliopolis), with Roman reliefs, on the pedestal, of the imperial family viewing the races from the court-stand of the Hippodrome. The second is the bronze *_Snake Column_, once the central support of a huge tripod which the Greeks erected as a votive offering at Delphi after the victory of Platæa (p. 506). The third is the so-called _Colossus_, an obelisk of unknown origin. No less conspicuous than the Aya Sophia is the *=Mosque of Ahmed I.= (Pl. H, 7), on the S.E. side of At Meïdán. It was built by the young sultan of that name in 1608–14 as the second-largest mosque in the city, and is the only one besides the Kaaba at Mecca that has six minarets. The large outer court, planted with trees and often used as a market-place, is separated from At Meïdán by a broken-down wall. The lofty chief portal, with its stalactite niche and its fine bronze gate, leads into a forecourt flanked with domed colonnades where we notice the pretty stalactite capitals. In the centre rises a superb hexagonal marble fountain with a railing. The interior of the mosque (79 by 70 yds.), in the style of the Mehmedieh (p. 553), resembles the Shahzadeh mosque (p. 552) in the disposition of its four half-domes. The great central dome, 73 ft. in diameter, rests on four clumsy round pillars, and around it runs a low gallery with depressed keel-arches. The walls are lined with white marble below and with beautiful fayence tiles from Nikæa above. To the S.W. of At Meïdán is the _Janissaries’ Museum_ (Pl. G, H, 7; adm., see p. 539), in which are exhibited wax-figures wearing the ancient costumes of Turkish dignitaries and the uniforms of the Janissaries, or old body-guard (1328–1826). To the S. of the Museum, close to the railway, rises the *=Küchük Aya Sóphia= (Pl. H, 7, 8), or ‘little’ mosque of Aya Sophia, a kind of prelude to the ‘great’, now containing a military museum. It was built under Justinian in 528, at the same time as San Vitale at Ravenna, as a church of _SS. Sergius and Bacchus_. The building is nearly square, with semicircular niches at the angles, and encloses an octagonal interior, between the eight corner-columns of which are four semicircular niches and four straight rows of columns. The junction of the walls with the dome was masked, as later in the Sophia Church, by curved triangular spandrels or pendentives. Beyond the public garden (p. 549) we enter the RUE DIVAN YOLOU (tramway No. 3, p. 538). At the end of it, on the right, is a railed-in burial-ground containing the handsome _Türbeh of Mahmud II._ (d. 1839) and his son Abdul Aziz (sultan in 1861–76). Entrance to the right, in Rue Mahmoudié. In the main street, now called Sedefdjilar Yolou, we next come to the second hill of New Rome (p. 541), crowned with the so-called =Burnt Column= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. _Chemberli Tash_, ‘stone with the hoop’). This great column of porphyry was erected by Constantine on the ancient ‘triumphal way’, to mark the centre of his forum, and bore his statue in bronze down to 1105. It was restored in 1909. The street then leads past the Kalpakjilar Kapu (on the right), the S. gate of the Great Bazaar (p. 551), to the Bayazid Mosque (p. 551). From the Burnt Column the Rue Nouri Osmanié leads to the N. to the white marble _Mosque of Nuri Osmanieh_ (Pl. G, 6), a bold dome-roofed edifice copied from the Selim Mosque (p. 553), but with a semicircular forecourt. Adjacent on the W. is the *=Great Bazaar= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. _Büyük Charshi_, ‘great market’), one of the sights of Constantinople. It lies in a depression between the Nuri Osmanieh Mosque and the Serasker Square (see below) and forms a distinct quarter of the city, enclosed by gates. As in the sûks (p. 335) the crafts mostly have their own streets or districts. Most of the buildings have been re-erected since the earthquake of 1894. To the early 17th cent. belongs the still extant castellated _Valideh Han_ (see below); of the early 18th cent. are the _Bezestán_ (the main central building, founded in the 10th cent.) and the _Sandal Bezestán_. Besides genuine Oriental wares many European goods also are sold here. The _Nuri Osmanieh Kapu_, on the W. side of the outer court of the mosque, opens on to the KALPAKJILAR BASHI JADDESÍ, the main thoroughfare on the S. side of the Bazaar. Immediately on the right is the _Sandal Bezestán_, once the silk-bazaar, now a warehouse (usually closed). The street on the N. side (Restaurant Tokatlian, see p. 537) leads to the W. after a few paces to the =Bezestán= (Pl. Bez.; G, 6), where artistic old weapons, gold and silver wares, inlaid furniture, etc. are displayed. In the street on the E. side are sold jewels and trinkets; on the N. side cloth, Oriental antiquities, and books; on the W. side Turkish women’s apparel and embroidery; on the S. side leather-work, etc. From the W. gate of the Bezestán we pass through the Bezestán Jaddesí, with its clothes-shops, to the OUSOUN TCHARCHI, the main street ascending from the Rustem Pasha Mosque (p. 545) to the S. gate (Kalpakjilar Kapu, p. 550). Going straight on we may ascend through the curved Fesjiler Jaddesi, the fez-market, to the BIT BAZAR JADDESI, a street running to the N. and S., the entrance to the (left) _Second-hand Market_ (Bat Bazar, jestingly called ‘bit bazar’ or louse-market). In the other direction, a few paces to the N., is the Hakkaklar Sokak, with the stalls of the seal-engravers, booksellers, etc., leading to the Bayazid Mosque. Those who intend to return from the Great Bazaar direct to the New Bridge (p. 545) may visit also the _Valideh Han_ (Pl. G, 5, 6; see above), the seat of the Persian traders, situated in the Chakmakjilar Yokussu, diverging to the E. from the Ousoun Tcharchi. On the third hill of the city, the site of the forum of Theodosius I., rise the Bayazid Mosque and the Seraskerat in its large court. The *=Mosque of Bayazid= (Pl. G, 6) was erected in 1489–97 by the Albanian _Kheireddin_, under sultan Bayazid, son of Mohammed II., the conqueror. The handsome portals of the forecourt recall Seljuk prototypes. The beautiful forecourt, enlivened ever since the time of the founder by countless pigeons, has pointed arcades with elegant domes. In the centre is an octagonal fountain. The interior, tastelessly painted in the Turkish rococo style in the 18th cent., is a simplified imitation of the Aya Sophia. To the N. of the mosque the _Serasker Kapu_, the modern S. gateway, leads into the court, now a drilling-ground, of the _Seraskerat_ (Pl. F, G, 5; or ministry of war). Here once stood the _Eski-Seraï_, the oldest palace of the sultans (comp. p. 546). The *=Serasker Tower= (closed on Frid.; fee 3–5 pias.), about 200 ft. high, built by Mahmud II. (d. 1839) of white marble from the island of Marmara (p. 535), affords a magnificent view of the city. Behind the barracks on the N. side of the Seraskerat, or by the Serasker Jaddesi to the right, we descend to the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, which is surrounded by schools, baths, and the _Residence of the Sheikh ul-Islam_. The **=Mosque of Suleiman the Great= (Turk. _Suleïmanieh_; Pl. F, G, 5), erected in 1550–66 by the Albanian _Sinán_ (Mimar Sinán Agha), on the model of the Aya Sophia and the Bayazid Mosque, is one of the two master-works of this most famous of Turkish architects (the other being the Selim mosque at Adrianople). The superb chief portal on the N.W. side is three stories in height. At the angles of the forecourt (63 by 49½ yds.) rise four minarets of unequal height. The exterior of the mosque is embellished with two arcades; the smaller domes are charmingly grouped round the great dome; the latter, only 85 ft. in diameter, is loftier than that of Aya Sophia. Notwithstanding the striped decoration with which it was marred at the time of the restoration under Abdul Aziz (p. 550), the interior surpasses all the other mosques of Constantinople in harmony of structure, in picturesqueness of perspective, and in magnificence of ornamentation, but is unfortunately badly lighted. Between the four pillars of the dome, on each side, are two monolith columns, 29 ft. high, with stalactite capitals, supporting the upper stories of the aisles. The *Mihrâb Wall is enriched with beautiful fayence tiles and with stained glass by _Serkosh Ibrahim_. In the burial-ground behind the mosque rise the handsome _Türbehs of Suleiman_ (fee 5 pias.) and his favourite wife _Roxolana_. From the outer court of the mosque, with its fine old cypresses and plane-trees, we may descend to the E. to Rustem Pasha’s Mosque (p. 545) and the New Bridge (p. 545); or we may go to the N.W. to the _Old Bridge_ (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 555; toll 10 paras) and the Rue Iskander (p. 543). From the W. gate of the Seraskerat, or from the W. angle of the outer court of the Suleiman mosque, we may soon reach the two-storied =Aqueduct of Valens= (Pl. F, E, 6, 5), dating from the reign of that emperor (368 A. D.) but much restored. It bridges the space between the fourth and third hills of the city. On the S. side of the aqueduct, near the scene of the great fire of 1908, rises the _Shahzadeh Mosque_ (Pl. E, F, 5; ‘prince’s mosque’), an early work of Sinán (see above), erected by Suleiman in 1543–7 in memory of his son Mohammed. The plan is similar to that of the Mehmedieh (see below). It is charmingly fitted up in the interior. In the two türbehs repose the princes Mohammed and Jíhangir and the princess Mihrimah. As a rule the muezzin permits visitors to ascend one of the minarets for a small gratuity. From this mosque the Rue Chahsadé Bachi ascends to the N.W. to the =Mosque of Mohammed II.= (Pl. D, E, 4; _Mehmedieh_ or _Fatih Jami_; comp. p. 542), the holiest in Constantinople after that of Eyúb (p. 555). It was built by the Greek _Christodulos_ in 1463–9 on the fourth hill of the city, on the site and with the materials of the _Apostles’ Church_. This church, founded by Constantine, had been restored by Justinian and was famous as the burial-place of the emperors. The outer court, planted with cypresses, on the N.W. side of which a busy market is held, is surrounded, as in the Byzantine age, by a great many miscellaneous buildings. The plan of the mosque is probably the same as that of the Apostles’ Church. The forecourt is commanded by two minarets. The interior, in the form of a Greek cross, has four half-domes in the two axes adjoining the central dome, four smaller corner-domes, and three galleries. The whole building was modernized after the earthquake of 1767. The first _Türbeh_ behind the mosque is that of ‘the Conqueror’. From the N.W. corner of the outer court the Sultan Mehmed and Sultan Selim streets lead to the N. to the _Mosque of Selim I._ (Pl. E, 3; Turk. _Selimieh_) on the fifth city-hill, erected by Suleiman the Great in 1520–6 in memory of his warlike father Selim I. (p. 542). This is the simplest of all the sultans’ mosques. The outer walls are roofed with a single semicircular dome. To the S. of Mehmedieh, between the fourth city-hill and the _Lykos Valley_, among the ruins caused by a fire, rises _Marcian’s Column_ (Pl. D, E, 5; Turk. Kiz Tash, maiden’s stone), erected in honour of that emperor (450–7). In the Lykos Valley, to the S.W. of Marcian’s Column, once lay the _Barracks of the Janissaries_ (p. 550), who were massacred in the Et Meïdán here (Pl. D, 5; ‘place of flesh’) after a revolt in 1826.—In the _Ak Seraï_ quarter (Pl. D, E, 6), on the ancient triumphal way (p. 550), lay the Roman _Forum Boarium_ (cattle-market). The road ascended thence to the seventh city-hill. Here, in the quarter now called _Avret Bazar_, is still seen the pedestal of the marble _Column of Arcadius_ (Pl. D, 7; Turk. Avret Tash, women’s stone), the sole surviving relic of the forum of Arcadius. From the Mehmedieh a main street (carr. 5 pias.) leads direct in ¼ hr., to the N.W., to the Edirneh Kapu (see below). Beside the city-wall, near Rue Edirné Kapou, is the sixth and highest city-hill, on which rises the _Mihrimah Mosque_ (Pl. C, 3), built in 1556 by Sinán (p. 552) for the princess Mihrimah (p. 545), on the site of the Byzantine monastery of St. George, and restored in 1910.—From the Greek _Church of St. George_ we walk about 250 paces to the N.E., and then descend to the right, near the city-wall, to visit the— =Kahrieh Mosque= (Pl. C, 2), once the church of the monastery of _Chora_ (‘in the country’), which probably existed before the time of Theodosius II. It was restored in the 11th cent. and enlarged in the 14th, and contains famous Byzantine *Mosaics (sacristan lives near). We now turn our steps to the ruinous _Edirneh Kapu_ (Pl. C, 2; Adrianople Gate), the gate of Charisius or cemetery-gate (Porta Polyandriu) of the Byzantines. Outside the gate, where stretches the largest _Moslem Cemetery_ of Stambul, we obtain an excellent view of the old *=Land-Wall= of the city, over 4 M. in length. The chief part of it is the _Theodosian Wall_ (p. 541), extending from the Sea of Marmora to the Tekfur Seraï (see below). This was originally a single wall, defended by towers, but after an earthquake in 447 it was doubled, the two walls being 66 yds. apart and, from the bottom of the moat, 100 ft. high. The S. part of the land-wall may be visited by carriage (one-horse 10, two-horse 10 or 15 pias.; bargaining necessary) from the Edirneh Kapu. We drive past _Top Kapu_ (Pl. A, 4; ‘cannon-gate’), once the gate of St. Romanos, famed in the siege of 1453, to Yedi Kuleh railway-station (Pl. A, B, 9). We may return thence to the town by local train (about every ½ hr.), or from the Yedi Kuleh Gate by tramway (No. 4; change at Ak Seraï, p. 553), or from Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) by local steamer (p. 538). Near the S. end of the wall rises the castle of =Yedi Kuleh= (Pl. A, 9; ‘seven towers’; adm. except Sun. 2½ pias.; small fee to lantern-bearer), rebuilt by Mohammed II., within which is the dilapidated _Porta Aurea_ (‘golden gate’), once the triumphal gate of the Byzantine emperors.—On the Sea of Marmora, at the point where the land-wall joined the _Marmora Sea Wall_, rises the octagonal _Mermer Kuleh_ (Pl. A, 9; ‘marble tower’), the sole relic of a castle of the time of Emp. Basil II. (976–1025). To the N.E. of the Edirneh Kapu, beyond the _Greek Cemetery_ (Pl. C, 2), the Theodosian city-wall is joined by the single but stronger _Wall of the Blachernae Quarter_ (‘marsh-land quarter’). This wall served for the defence of the famous St. Mary’s Church of the empress Pulcheria (ca. 450), and for that of the Blachernæ Palace, founded at the end of the 5th cent., which in the 12th cent. became the imperial residence instead of the older palaces in the Augusteion (p. 549). The wall dates partly from the reigns of Emp. Heraklios (610–41), Leo V. (813–20), and Manuel Comnenus (1143–80), but was largely rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries. The ruined Byzantine palace rising above the town-wall near the small _Kerkoporta_ (Pl. C, 2), the so-called _Tekfur Seraï_ (‘emperor’s palace’), was probably founded by Constantine VII. Porphyrogenetos (912–59). Of the _Blachernae Palace_ itself the foundations are still traceable between the _Egri Kapu_ (Pl. C, 1; once Porta Kaligaria) and the Aivas Effendi Mosque. To the old terrace of the palace belonged the massive _Towers of Isaak Angelos_ and _Anemas_ (Pl. C, 1). On the N. side the land-walls end with the picturesque castle of _Brachionon_ or _Pentapyrgion_, answering to the Yedi Kuleh on the S. side. It lies between the inner and the site of the outer Blachernæ gate. Near it are buried the Arabs who fell in 678 (p. 541). From the _Aivan Seraï Kapu_ (Pl. D, 1), which belongs to the old _Sea Wall on the Golden Horn_ (p. 541), a broad road to the left (N.W.) leads through the suburb of _Ortakjilar_ (Pl. B, C, 1) to (¾ M.) Eyúb (p. 555). Straight on, we soon reach the Aivan Seraï pier (p. 555). c. The Golden Horn. By CAÏQUE (p. 538) from the New Bridge to Eyúb about 1 hr., to the Sweet Waters 1½–2 hrs. (there and back 20–25 pias.). The row back is particularly fine towards sunset.—STEAMBOAT (p. 538) to Eyúb in ¾ hr., thence to the Sweet Waters 20 min. The =Golden Horn=, already named _Chrysokeras_ by the Greeks, an arm of the sea 4½ M. long and at the widest point ½ M. across, probably a submerged side-valley of the Bosporus, is one of the finest natural harbours in the world. In the Byzantine period it was closed for defensive purposes by a chain. It consists of the _Outer Commercial Harbour_ (Pl. H, I, 4, 5), with the Galata Quay (p. 543) and the new quays on the Stambul side, the _Inner Commercial Harbour_ (Pl. G, H, 4), between the two bridges, and the _Naval Harbour_ (Pl. E-G, 2, 3). The voyager on the Golden Horn is chiefly struck with the busy harbour scenes and the picturesque appearance of the crowded Oriental quarters rising from the banks. Starting from the New Bridge (Pl. H, 4) the steamer crosses the inner commercial harbour to the pier of _Yemish Iskelesí_ (Pl. G, 4) at Stambul, at the foot of the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, and then passes under the Old Bridge (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 552) into the naval harbour. On the Stambul side it first calls at the piers of _Jubali Kapu_ and _Aya Kapu_ (Pl. F, 3), the latter lying below Selim’s Mosque (p. 553). Next, on the same side, are the piers of _Phanar_ (Pl. E, 2), the Greek quarter, where a terrible massacre took place in 1821, and _Balat_ (Pl. D, 2), the largest Jewish quarter. On the opposite bank, from the Old Bridge onwards, lie the dockyard buildings. On the bay of _Kasím Pasha_ (calling-place of some of the steamboats) is the _Ministry of Marine_ (Divan Haneh; Pl. G, 2, 3), with its surrounding barracks, workshops, and docks. In front of it are anchored men-of-war and guard-ships. The steamer next touches at _Ters Haneh_ (Pl. E, 2), on the E. bank, at the end of the dockyard, and at the Jewish quarter of _Haskiöi_ (Has Keuï; Pl. E, 1); then, on the W. bank, at _Aivan Seraï_ (Pl. D, 1; p. 554), where we have a fine view of the N.E. end of the land-walls and the beginning of the sea-wall on the Golden Horn; then, on the E. bank, at _Kalijeh Oglu_, and on the W. bank at _Defterdar Iskelesí_ (Pl. C, 1) and _Eyúb_ (see inset plans in Plan of City). In the suburb of *=Eyúb=, a few minutes’ walk from the pier, is the famous _Mosque of Eyúb_, where the ceremony of girding each new sultan with the sword takes place. It was built of white marble by Mohammed II., the Conqueror, in 1459, adjacent to the türbeh of Abu Eyúb Ensari, the legendary standard-bearer of the prophet, whose tomb here was revealed in a vision a few days after the conquest. The spot is so revered by the Moslems that until now no Christian dared set foot even in the outer court. Since the establishment of the new Turkish government, however, visitors may enter the deeply impressive court and even the mosque itself, but they should be careful not to remain standing between the railings in the centre of the court and the gilded windows on the wall-side. From the mosque, up the hill-side to the N.E., extends the picturesque _Cemetery_, with its venerable cypresses. A path ascends from the mosque, past a monastery (_Tekkeh_) of the dancing dervishes (p. 543), to the top, where we have a splendid *View of both banks of the Golden Horn. From Eyúb a smaller local steamer plies through the _Stambul Liman_, the shallow N.W. arm of the Golden Horn, 1¼ M. long, to _Kiathaneh_, or _Kiahat Haneh_; this trip, on Fridays or Sundays in spring, affords an interesting picture of Turkish life. At Kiathaneh two streams fall into the Golden Horn, the so-called =Sweet Waters of Europe= (the Asiatic waters, see p. 558), or _Eaux Douces_. The eastmost is the _Kiathaneh Suyu_, in the valley of which, about 1¼ M. up, is a château of the sultan, the most popular holiday resort of the citizens of Constantinople. In the meadows, under shady trees, are erected huts and arbours, where music and amusements of all kinds are provided. The Moslems enjoy themselves sedately here on Fridays; the Christians come on Sundays; hither too the people of fashion ride or drive. Shortly before sunset a whole flotilla of boats on the Golden Horn returns home to the city. d. Scutari. STEAM FERRY BOATS from the _New Bridge_ (see p. 538) and _Beshiktash_ to Scutari. Those from the New Bridge to the minor stations _Salajak_, near the Leander tower, and _Harem-Iskelesí_, below the Selimieh Barracks (p. 536), are less frequent and are seldom used by strangers.—CARRIAGES have the same tariff as in the city (p. 538). Drive from the pier to the Chamlija Spring and back viâ the Great Cemetery (about 2½ hrs.) 1½ mejidiehs (30 pias.).—HORSE to the Bulgurlu about 1 mej. The steamer leaves the Seraglio Point on the right and steers to the E. to (¼ hr.) the chief landing-place at Scutari, which lies on the Asiatic shore, in a bay to the N. of the promontory. To the right, off the end of the promontory, is a flat islet on which rises the so-called _Leander’s Tower_ (by the Turks named _Kiz Kulesí_, _i.e._ maiden’s tower, from the legend that a sultan’s daughter was once kept here), with a signalling station and lights. =Scutari= (no European inns), Turk. _Üsküdar_, the ancient _Chrysopolis_, the harbour of Chalcedon (p. 536), now a large suburb of Constantinople, contains 90,000 inhab., comparatively few of whom are Armenians and Greeks. Its fine old mosques, its crooked streets, and its small timber houses give it a more Oriental character than Stambul. Until a century ago Scutari was the terminus of the caravan-routes from Asia Minor, by which the treasures of the East were brought to Constantinople. It is still the starting-point of the sacred annual Mecca caravan. From the pier we follow the broad main street past the _Büyük Jami_ (‘Great Mosque’; 1547), on the left, and the _Yeni Valideh Jami_ (1707–10), on the right, beyond which a road to the right diverges to the Dervishes’ Monastery and the Great Cemetery. [Illustration: CONSTANTINOPLE] The street, inclining to the left, next leads to the quarters of =Yeni Mahalleh=, with an Armenian cemetery, and =Baglar Bashi=; then, past villas, to the village of =Bulgurlukiöi=. Before the village is reached a road to the left leads to (2 M. from the pier) the =Chamlija Spring=, shaded by great plane-trees, a favourite Friday and Sunday resort like the Sweet Waters (p. 556). We may thence ascend (to the N., ¼ hr.) the =Great Bulgurlu= or _Büyük Chamlija_ (879 ft.; small café, bargaining necessary), which, in the forenoon especially, affords a superb *View of Constantinople, the Bosporus, and the Sea of Marmora. On the way back we turn to the left, skirting the Armenian cemetery, to visit the *_Great Cemetery_ (Büyük Mezaristán), the largest Moslem burial-ground in the East. The lower road through it leads to the N. to the _Monastery of the Howling Dervishes_ (Rufaï Tekkeh; no admittance). To the S. of the Great Cemetery lies _Haidar Pasha_ (p. 536), with a large _Military Hospital_, where Florence Nightingale (1820–1910) first devoted herself to her philanthropic work. Adjoining the Hospital is the _British Cemetery_, containing a tall granite Obelisk in memory of the British who fell in the Crimean war. e. The Bosporus. LOCAL STEAMERS (p. 538), with 17 stations on the European side and 12 on the Asiatic, never all touched at on the same voyage. To _Rumeli Kavak_, the northmost station on the W. shore, in 2 hrs., 5 (in summer 6) steamers only. From any station it is easy to ferry to the opposite shore (5–10 pias.). The Thracian *=Bosporus= (‘ox-ford’, from the Greek myth that Io swam in the shape of a cow from Asia to Europe), Turk. Kara _Denis Boghaz_ or _Stambul Boghaz_ (Black Sea or Stambul Straits), which, like the Dardanelles (p. 534), was formed by the subsidence of a river-valley in the tertiary period (comp. p. xxxiv), connects the Sea of Marmora with the Black Sea. Length 20 M., breadth about 2 M., average depth 89 ft. (greatest about 395 ft.). A surface-stream, quickened by the prevailing N.E. winds, and consisting of the fresher water of the Black Sea, fed by its copious rivers, constantly pours through the straits towards the Mediterranean, while the saltier and heavier water of the latter flows in the opposite direction in a strong under-current into the Black Sea. The steep coast-hills of the N. part, as far as Rumeli Kavak, consist of eruptive rock, basalt, dolerite, and trachyte; in the S. part the prevailing formations are Devonian, clay-slate, greywacke, quarzite, and limestone. The peninsula of Stambul is of the miocene formation. A trip on the Bosporus affords a highly picturesque and varied panorama of the scenery on its banks, and on the way back we suddenly obtain a striking view of the great city and its suburbs. The more important places only are named below. (L. signifies landing-place or pier.) WEST BANK. │ EAST BANK. │ _Galata Quay_ and _Top Haneh_, see │_Leander’s Tower_ and _Scutari_, pp. 543, 544. │see p. 556. │ _Dolma Bagcheh_ (p. 544), with the │ _Seraï_ of that name, built by │ Abdul Mejid in 1850–5 in the │ overladen ‘Turkish Renaissance’ │ style, now the residence of │ Mohammed V.; the façade on the │ Bosporus is over 700 yds. long; in │ the lofty central building is the │ huge throne-room. │ │ Beyond _Beshiktash_ (p. 544; L.) │_Kuskunjuk_ (L.), a Jewish village, are the ruins of the _Chiragan │separated from Scutari by a low Seraï_, a similar palace, which was│hill, was almost entirely destroyed burnt down in 1910. │by a disastrous fire in Feb. 1911. │ At _Ortakiöi_ (L.), a suburb with │_Beylerbey_ (L.). The _Beylerbey beautiful gardens and a pretty │Seraï_, built by Abdul Aziz in mosque (1870), the city is seen │1865, is the most tasteful sultan’s astern for the last time. │palace on the Bosporus. │ We round a headland and next come │_Chengelkiöi_ (L.) and _Vanikiöi_ to the villages of _Kuru Cheshmeh_ │(L.), where we lose sight of (L.) and _Arnautkiöi_ (L.).The │Stambul. We next pass _Top Dagh_ latter lies on the _Akinti Burnu_, │(427 ft.; ‘cannon-hill’), famed for a headland swept by a strong │its view of the whole of the current. │Bosporus. _Kandili_ (L.) lies on a │headland opposite the bay of Bebek. │ _Bebek_ (L.), on a beautiful bay, │ with villas (yali) of wealthy │ Turks, an English and American │ summer resort. On the hill to the │ N. is the _Robert College_, an │ American institution founded in │ 1863. │ │ │Between Kandili and Anatoli Hissar │(see below) opens the _Valley of │the Sweet Waters of Asia_, at the │mouth of the Büyük (great) and │Küchük (little) Gök Su, a favourite │Friday resort of │Moslem-excursionists in summer. │ Above the cypresses of an old │_Anatoli Hissar_ (L.; ‘Asiatic cemetery rise the picturesque │Castle’), or _Güzel Hissar_ towers and walls of _Rumelí Hissar_│(‘beautiful castle’), the (L.; ‘European castle’), built by │picturesque castle by the sea, Mohammed II. in 1452, shortly │which gives its name to the before the siege of Constantinople │village, was erected by Bayazid I. (p. 542), to command the narrowest │in 1393 as an outwork against part of the Bosporus (722 yds. │Byzantium. only). Here, too, the current │ (_sheïtan akintisi_, ‘Satan’s │ stream’) is at its strongest. │ │ Beyond _Emirgian_ (L.) come the │_Kanlija_ (L.), on a small headland palaces built by Ismaîl, khedive of│(beacon). Egypt (d. 1895; p. 444). │ │ _Stenia_ (L.), in a deep and │_Chibukli_, on the _Bay of Beïkos_, sheltered bay, and _Yenikiöi_ (L.; │where the British and French fleets Greek _Neochori_), both inhabited │met for the Crimean war. At the chiefly by Greeks and Armenians. At│head of the bay, beyond _Pasha the N. end of the headland are the │Bagcheh_ (L.) lies =Beïkos=, summer seats of the American and │usually the northmost steamboat Austrian ambassadors. │station. │ │From Beïkos we may ascend the │=Giant’s Mt.= or =Yusha Dagh= (640 │ft.; ‘Mt. Joshua’), an important │landmark for ships coming from the │Black Sea. The road to it (1 hr.; │carr. ½ mej.) ascends past the │palace of Mohammed Ali Pasha and │through the grassy, well-wooded, │and well-watered valley of _Hunkiar │Iskelesí_, once a favourite country │seat of the Byzantine emperors and │the sultans. On the top are a │mosque, the ‘tomb of the giant │Joshua’, and a small café. *View │over the whole Bosporus, but │Constantinople is hidden. │ =Therapia= (L.; Summer Palace Hot.;│ Hôt. Tokatlian, etc.; pop. 5000), a│ large and handsome village, on a │ small bay, with cafés by the sea │ and terraced gardens. On the quay, │ to the N. of the bay, are the │ summer residences of the British │ (lofty white building), French, and│ Italian ambassadors; on the N. side│ of the bay is that of the German │ ambassador. │ │ │The steamers plying beyond Beïkos │proceed thence straight across the │Bosporus to _Yenikiöi_ (see above) │on the European shore, where │corresponding with them there are │generally steamboats plying viâ │Therapia (see above) to _Mezar │Burnu_ (see below) and to _Rumelí │Kavak_ (p. 560). Thence they go on │to the last station on the Asiatic │shore— │ Near the small cape _Kiretsh │ Burnu_, with its battery and │ beacon, the Black Sea becomes │ visible in the distance. │ │ =Büyükdereh= (L.; Hôt. Bellevue; │ Hôt. d’Europe; Hôt. Platane, etc.; │ pop. 6000) is one of the most │ frequented summer resorts of the │ wealthy Europeans of │ Constantinople, with handsome │ houses in the N. part. The _Bay of │ Büyükdereh_ (‘great valley’) forms │ the broadest part of the Bosporus │ (2 M.). │ │ At the N. end of the bay are _Mezar│ Burnu_ (L.), a small village, and │ _Yeni Mahalleh_, at the mouth of │ the ‘rose valley’, the terminus of │ most of the steamers. │ │ Five or six boats only go on, │=Anatoli Kavak=, a genuine Turkish passing the ruinous fort _Telli │village, lying on the _Majar Bay_ Tabia_ and the _Dikili Cliffs_, to │between two strongly fortified =Rumelí Kavak=, a village near a │headlands. On the N. headland rises fortress built by Murad IV. in 1628│also the picturesque ruin of the and restored in 1890. The walls of │Byzantine castle of _Yoros Kalesí_, the ruined Byzantine castle of │called the _Genoese Castle_ since _Imros Kalesí_, on a hill to the │the 14th century. In ancient times N., once extending down to the sea,│the headland and the strait, one of were prolonged by moles, like those│the narrowest parts of the of Yoros Kalesí opposite, so that a│Bosporus, were named _Hieron_ chain could be carried across. │(sanctuary) after the altar of the │twelve gods, where Jason is said │once to have sacrificed, and after │a temple of Zeus Urios, the │dispenser of favourable winds. │ At the N. end of the Bosporus the │ banks, which bristle with forts and│ batteries, consist of almost │ perpendicular basaltic rock, above │ which runs a hill-path. Between │ Rumelí Kavak and the headland │ _Karibjeh Kalesí_ the little bay of│ _Büyük Liman_ offers the first │ refuge to vessels of slight draught│ coming from the N. │ │ │In the Majar Bay vessels coming │from the Black Sea have to show │their papers before entering the │Bosporus. Then comes _Kechili Bay_, │bounded on the N. by the cape _Fil │Burnu_, and defended by a fort, as │is also the _Poiras Burnu_, a │little farther to the N.E. │ The Bosporus now expands at its N. │Next, on the rocky coast, are the entrance to 2¾ M., near =Rumelí │village and beyond it the low cape Fanar=, a Greek village │of =Anatoli Fanar=, with the (_Fenerkiöi_ or _Fanaraki_), with a│Anatolian lighthouse and a fort lighthouse and a strong fortress on│rising above it. the rock to the N. of the bay. To │ the E. rise a number of dark │ basaltic cliffs, the _Cyanean │ Islands_ or _Symplegades_ (_i.e._ │ the rocks which, according to the │ ancient tradition, ‘clash │ together’), between which Jason had│ to pass on the Argonautic │ expedition. │ │ │Farther on are _Kabakos Bay_, in │the basaltic rocks of which nestle │countless sea-fowl, and, at the N. │mouth of the Bosporus, the abrupt │_Yum Burnu_, with a battery and │rescue-station for the shipwrecked. IX. THE BLACK SEA. Route Page 82. From Constantinople to Constantza 561 83. From Constantinople to Odessa 563 84. From Odessa to Batum 568 Yalta, 569. 85. From Batum to Constantinople 571 The =Black Sea= (Turk. _Kara Denis_; Russ. _Chornoye More_; p. xxxiv), the _Pontus Euxinus_ of the ancients, sometimes deserves its name for the dark-blue hue of its waters, which is markedly different from the blue of the Mediterranean. Its area, nearly equal to that of the Baltic, amounts to 163,689 sq. M., without including the 14,519 sq. M. of the _Sea of Azov_ (p. xxxiv) which is united with the Black Sea by the narrow Straits of Kertch (p. 570) and separated from the shallow Gulf of Odessa (p. 564) by the Crimean Peninsula. The basin proper of the Black Sea is a huge depression, falling away rapidly from its margin to its centre, where it reaches a depth of ca. 7365 ft. Its flow and ebb are not perceptible. Owing to the great rivers it receives its surface-water is but slightly salt (1.8 per cent), but the deep water is more saline (2.2 to 2.3 per cent). The bottom is coated with black mud impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen and is therefore entirely destitute of animal life. On warm summer nights the phosphorescence of the water is very observable. As in the Mediterranean, the vessels are often followed by dolphins. During almost the whole of summer gentle N. and N.E. winds, with a clear sky, prevail in the S.W. part of the Black Sea. At other seasons the wind is very variable. The N.W. and W. winds often bring fog, which makes the entrance of the Bosporus difficult. In winter and about the time of the equinox dangerous storms from the S. and S.E. are by no means rare. 82. From Constantinople to Constantza. 224 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Constantza, see p. 563). =1.= _Royal Rumanian State Maritime Service_ (Serviciul Maritim Român; in correspondence with the North German Lloyd; comp. R. 76), from Constantinople on Tues. and Sat. aft. in 14 hrs. (from Constantza on Sun. and Thurs. night in 12 hrs.; comp. p. 563); fare 55 or 35 fr.—=2.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (for Odessa and Nikolayev) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (from Constantza on Thurs. night viâ Varna), in about 1½ days (fare 51 fr., 20 fr.; in the reverse direction 44 fr., 20 fr.); also by Line Braila B, from Constantinople every other Frid. aft. viâ Varna, in 2 days (from Constantza direct to Constantinople Wed. aft., in 19 hrs.); fare 58 (back, 46) or 25 fr. (without food in 2nd cabin).—=3.= _Società Nazionale_, Line XIII (for Braila), from Constantinople Sun. aft. (from Constantza Mon. aft.), in 17 hrs. (fare 40 or 28 fr.). For _Constantinople_ and the voyage through the _Bosporus_, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560. The Rumanian and Italian vessels pursue a N. course through the _Black Sea_, long affording fine retrospects of the precipitous shores of Anatolia and the fissured promontories of the Rumelian coast. Steering to the N.W. the Odessa steamer of the Austrian Lloyd reaches the open sea off _Rumelí Fanar_ (p. 560). It again, however, approaches the Rumelian coast abreast of _Cape Iniada_ (Turk. _Kuru Burnu_), the _Thynias Promontorium_ of the ancients. Beyond the far-projecting _Cape Kuratan_ or _Zeitün Burnu_ (lights), belonging to _S. Bulgaria_ (formerly _E. Rumelia_), opens the wide _Gulf of Burgas_. We pass the peninsula of _Sozopolis_ and the lighthouses of the islands of _Megalo Nisi_ and _Anastasia_, and enter the _Bay of Burgas_, which runs deeply into the land from the middle of the gulf. =Burgas= (Hôt. Commercial, etc.), the modern Greek _Pyrgos_, is the chief harbour of S. Bulgaria (11,700 inhab.) and lies at the head of the bay between large lagoons. The harbour is tolerably sheltered from the E. wind by two moles. The chief exports are grain and attar of roses. In continuing our voyage we pass the peninsula of _Mesembriya_ (the ancient _Mesembria_) and _Cape Emine_ (lighthouse), the N. horn of the Bay of Burgas, forming a spur of the well-wooded _Little Balkan Range_, the old frontier between E. Rumelia and Bulgaria. On the N. margin of the Balkan Mts. lies =Varna=, the ancient _Odessos_, now the chief seaport of Bulgaria (pop. 35,000), where some of the Austrian Lloyd steamers call. The entrance to the bay of Varna, open towards the E., is bounded on the S. by _Cape Galata_ (_Galata Burnu_; lighthouse) and on the N. by _Cape St. George_. The anchorage, between two long moles, is similar to that of Burgas. The _Devna Canal_ connects the bay with _Lake Devna_. Farther on the steamer rounds _Cape Kaliakra_ (Turk. _Chiliga Burnu_; lighthouse), jutting far to the S., and rejoins the course of the direct steamer from the Bosporus to Constantza. Next comes _Cape Shabla_ (lights), 10–12 M. to the N. of which lies the village of _Ilanjik_, on the border between Bulgaria and the Rumanian _Dobruja_. At night the position of the flat coast is revealed by the lights of the small port of _Mangalia_ and of _Cape Tusla_, stretching in front of the lagoon of Mangalia. After a short halt in the open roads all the steamers pass through the entrance to the harbour of _Constantza_ and moor alongside the quays of the E. mole. The landing-place of the Rumanian mail-steamers (see below) is close to the harbour-station. =Constantza.=—HOTELS (crowded in the latter half of Aug. and in Sept.). _Hôt. Carol I._, at the E. end of the headland, of the first class, with garden, R. 6–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. (_lei_); _Regina_, _Raynier_, etc. POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, to the E. of the chief railway-station; branch-office at the harbour.—CAB 2 lei. STEAMBOAT AGENCIES. _Rumanian State Maritime Service_ (see below), at the landing-stage; _Austrian Lloyd_, H. Rappaport; _Società Nazionale_, E. Tozzi. BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, _Lionel E. Keyser_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Watson & Youell_. _Constantza_ (Ruman. _Constanţa_, Turk. _Küstenjeh_), a seaport with 17,000 inhab. and in summer a popular Rumanian seaside-resort (see below), lies on a small tongue of land rising boldly from the sea and enclosing with the E. mole (1500 yds.) a sickle-shaped harbour. The latter, which is always free from ice, is not yet quite complete. Beside the S. mole is the so-called petroleum-harbour. Petroleum, agricultural produce, and timber are the chief exports. From the harbour-station the chief promenade of the town leads past the _Cathedral_ (left) and the new _Municipal Casino_ (right) to the _Lighthouse_ at the E. end of the promontory. In the Piaţa Independenţei (Independence Square), at the narrowest part of the peninsula, rises a monument to _Ovid_, who died in exile at the neighbouring _Tomi_ (afterwards _Constantiana_) in 17 A.D. In summer there is a train-service to (½ hr.) _Mamaia_, with a large bathing-establishment. The sailings (Sun. & Thurs.) and arrivals (Sun. & Wed.) of the Rumanian mail-boats are in connection with the arrivals and departures (at and from the harbour-station) of the Ostende-Vienna Express, the Berlin Rapide, and the Bukarest Express. 83. From Constantinople to Odessa. 397 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Odessa, p. 565). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 77, 80), to Odessa (and Batum) every other Sun. evening in 1½ days (48 or 32 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._: (a) by the direct Alexandria line (p. 491) from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Thurs.) foren., in 29 hrs. (80 or 50 fr.); (b) Two circular lines to Syria and Egypt (p. 466), each every other Thurs. or Frid. aft. (from Odessa Sat.), in ca. 1½ days (same fares); (c) Anatolian Line (p. 571) from Constantinople every other Sat. (from Odessa Mon.) aft., in ca. 1½ days (68 or 42 fr., without food).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (Odessa and Nikolayev Line) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (p. 562) and Constantza (see above), in 2½ days (fares, 1st class 78 fr., 2nd class, without meals, 30 fr.). On the return trips (3¼ days) the boats leave Odessa on Wed. aft. and call at Constantza and Varna (p. 562).—=4.= _Società Nazionale_, Lines X & XI (Genoa to Odessa), from Constantinople Thurs. aft. (from Odessa Frid. even.), sometimes calling at Burgas or Constantza, in ca. 1½ days (fare 60 or 47 fr.).—=5.= _Messageries Maritimes_ (Marseilles to Odessa), from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Wed.) in 3 days (60 or 40 fr.). For Russian money, see p. 565.—Russian time is that of E. Europe (p. 537). For _Constantinople_ and the voyage through the _Bosporus_, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560. The direct boats steer to the N.N.E. across the Black Sea (p. 561) all the way to the _Gulf of Odessa_ (p. xxxiv). Opposite the mouths of the Danube and about 26 M. from the coast-town of _Kilia_ we sight, on the left, the _Isle of Serpents_ (Ruman. _Ins. Serpilor_, Greek _Fidonisi_), a bare islet of limestone rock, with a lighthouse, belonging to Rumania. The flat coast of Bessarabia, with its numerous lagoons (Russ. _Liman_); is visible only in clear weather. On the _Dniester Liman_, or great lagoon of the _Dniester_, lie the towns of _Akkerman_ (the ancient _Tyras_) and _Ovidiopol_ and the lighthouse at the mouth of the _Zaregrad_, beyond which we approach the abrupt edge of the great steppe of S. Russia, which is intersected by deep defiles known as Ovrági or Bálki. Important landmarks are the _Kovalevski Tower_, once the water-tower at Lustdorf (p. 568), and the lighthouses on the promontory of _Bolshoi Fontan_, at the Great Fountain (p. 568). Nearing the _Harbour of Odessa_ we have a good view of the whole sea-front of the city and of the series of villas (datshas) between the Great Fountain and Cape Lansheron. The steamer passes the _Vorontsóv Lighthouse_ on the outer mole (p. 566) and then anchors in the ‘quarantine harbour’. =Odessa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The examination of passports and luggage, which not even the passenger bound for more distant places escapes, occupies a considerable time. If the steamer is not berthed at the quay passengers are landed by small boat (40 copecks, with baggage 50 cop.; in stormy weather 60–75 cop.) at the Platonovsky Mole (Pl. E, 4, 5). Passengers going straight on by railway should take a cab direct to the main railway-station (70 cop., with pair 1 roub. 40 cop., incl. luggage; see p. 565). The =Main Railway Station= (Grande Gare; Pl. D, 7, 8) is the terminus of through EXPRESS TRAINS from Berlin viâ Oderberg, Cracow, Lemberg, Podvoloczyska, and Shmerinka (41 hrs.; fare 130 or 82 marks) and viâ Alexandrovo, Warsaw, Brest, Rovno, Kasatin, and Shmerinka (42 hrs.; fare 122 marks 95 or 75 marks 90 pfennige), and from Vienna viâ Oderberg and Podvoloczyska (35½ hrs.). =Hotels.= *LONDON (Pl. b; D, 5), Nikoláyevsky Boul. 11, with sea-view, R. from 2½ roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–3) 1, D. (3–8) 2 roub.; *ST. PETERSBURG (Pl. c; D, 4), corner of Yekateríninskaya and Nikoláyevsky Boul., also with sea-view, R. from 2½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.; *BRISTOL (Pl. i; D, 5), corner of Púshkinskaya and Kondratenko Sts., R. 1½–15 roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–2) ¾, D. (1–8) 1–2 roub.; *YEVROPÉISKAYA (Pl. d; D, 5), Púshkinskaya 4, commercial, R. from 1½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.—HÔT. DE PARIS (Paríshskaya; Pl. f, D 5), Púshkinskaya 8; HÔT. PASSAGE, cor. of Deribássovskaya and Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, 5), etc. [Illustration: ODESSA] [Illustration: ODESSA] =Restaurants= at the *_London_, *_Yevropéiskaya_, *_Bristol_, and _St. Petersburg_ hotels; also _Alexander Park_ (p. 568), in summer only, with beautiful view; _Nikoláyevsky Boulevard_ (p. 566; in summer), déj. 60 cop., D. ¾–1 roub.; _Exchange_ (p. 568), D. 60 cop.; _Bruhns_ (luncheon rooms), Deribássovskaya 16 (in the court). =Cafés.= _Fanconi_, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5; newspapers); _Robinat_, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky Boul. (Pl. D, 5); _Liebmann_, corner of Preobrashénskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5); _Palais Royal_, Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5), café-restaurant, D. 50 cop. =Cabs= (Isvóshtshik). To the Main Railway Station, with luggage, 35 cop.; to or from the Quarantine Harbour, with luggage, 70 cop.; drive in the town 20, per hour 50, each addit. ½ hr. 25 cop.; to Lansherón 30 cop.; to the Small, to the Middle, and to the Great Fountains 75 cop., 1 roub. 10, 1 roub. 50 cop.—_Carriage and Pair_ (‘phaeton’) cost double the above mentioned fares. =Tramways= (horse) from the _Main Railway Station_ (Pl. D, 7) through Rishelyévskaya, Lansherónovskaya, and Khersónskaya to the _Hospital_ (Pl. B, C, 3); from the _Old Churchyard_ (Pl. C, 8) to a point below the _Voyénny-Spusk_ (Pl. D, 4), every 5 min.; from corner of _Preobrashénskaya_ and _Malaya Arnaútskaya_ (Pl. C, 7) to the _Little Fountain_ (p. 568), every 10 min. in ¾ hr. (with branch to _Arkadia_); from corner of _Kanátnaya_ and _Skóbelevskaya_ (Pl. E, 6) to _Lansherón_ (p. 568), every 10 minutes.—=Electric Tramway= from the _Greek Bazaar_ (Pl. 2; D, 5) to _Lansherón_ (p. 568), every 3 minutes.—=Steam Tramway= from _Kulikóvo Póle_ (Pl. D, 8) to the _Great Fountain_ (p. 568), every 25 min., in ¾ hr. (15 cop. to the Middle Fountain, 20 cop. to the Great). =General Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 24; C, 4, 5), Sadóvaya 8 (poste restante upstairs, to the left). Foreign letters 10, post-cards 4 cop. =Banks.= _Imperial_ (Pl. 1; D, 6), Shúkovskaya 9 (open 9.30–3); _Chayés_, Rishelyévskaya; _Crédit Lyonnais_, corner of Rishelyévskaya and Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5; 10–4).—=Money.= The Russian roubel, divided into 100 copecks, is worth about 2_s._ 2_d._—MONEY CHANGER. _Gruber_, Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5).—=Booksellers.= _Becker & Wedde_, _Berndt_, both in Deribássovskaya. =Sea Baths= at Lansherón (stony), the Fountains, Arkadia, Lustdorf (more open sea), and other places. =Consuls.= British Consul-General, _Ch. S. Smith_, Kanatnaya 31.—U. S. Consul, _J. H. Grout_, same street, No. 33; vice-consul, _A. W. Smith_. =Police Headquarters=, Preobrashénskaya 38 (Pl. 23; C, 5). =Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_ and _German Levant Line_, McNabb, Rougier, & Co.; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Lansherónowskaya 5; _Austrian Lloyd_, Regir; _Società Nazionale_, Vitale & Gallian; _Messageries Maritimes_, C. Muntz. =Theatres.= _Town Theatre_ (Pl. 29; D, 5), Theatre Square, operas and dramas; _Sibiryakóv Theatre_ (‘Theatre’; Pl. C, 4), corner of Khersónskaya and Kónnaya, for operas and plays.—PLEASURE RESORTS. _Hôt. du Nord_; _Alexander Park_ (p. 568); _Arkadia_ (p. 568); _Little Fountain_ (p. 568).—_Circus Truzzi_ (Pl. 4; C, 4), also a theatre of varieties.—_English Club_ (Pl. 6; D, 5). =English Church=, Remeslennaya 15 (Pl. D, 6, 7). SIGHTS (one day or less). Nikoláyevsky Boulevard and Monument of Catharine (p. 567); drive through Yekateríninskaya, Preobrashénskaya, Deribássovskaya. and Púshkinskaya (as far as the Exchange); Alexander Park (p. 568) and Lansherón (p. 568). _Odessa_ (154 ft.), in the province of Khersón, is the chief commercial and industrial place on the Black Sea and the fourth-largest town of the Russian Empire (pop. 500,000, including at least 175,000 Jews). It is the seat of an archbishop of the Greek church and of a modern Russian University, and it is the headquarters of the 8th army-corps. It lies in 46°28′ N. lat. and 30°45′ E. long, and extends for a distance of about 4 M. over the elevated and treeless steppe. The winter climate is consequently very severe (mean temperature in Jan. 25° Fahr., July 73°, annual mean 49°). Its wide and well-paved streets, crossing each other at right angles and generally planted with trees, make it one of the most regularly laid out and most handsome cities in Russia. Attractive parks have been as it were wrested from the barren soil by dint of untiring perseverance and unstinted care. The rescript in which Catharine II. ordered the foundation of the town was dated May, 1794, and its foundation-stone was laid by Admiral J. de Ribas in August of the same year. The new city, which sprang up on the site of the small Tartar and Turkish village of _Chadshibéy_, was probably named after the Sarmatian harbour of _Odessos_ which is said to have lain in this neighbourhood. From 1817 to 1859 Odessa was a free harbour. It was greatly improved by the efforts of two of its governors, the Duc de Richelieu (1803–14) and Prince Vorontsóv (1823–54). During the Crimean war the town was attacked unsuccessfully by the British and French fleets in 1854, and the blockade by Turkish war-ships in 1876–7 was equally fruitless. The excesses of the revolution of 1905 were nowhere more ghastly than at Odessa. The =Harbour= (347 acres in area), which in winter has sometimes to be kept open by ice-breakers, consists of an outer harbour (154 acres) and five inner basins. Effective protection against all sea-winds is afforded by a breakwater (1334 yds. long), the quarantine mole (1120 yds. long), and the so-called roadstead mole (710 yds. long), forming a continuation of the last. The so-called _Quarantine Harbour_ (Pl. E, F, 5) is for foreign vessels; the _New Harbour_ (Pl. E, 4), between the Platonovsky and New moles, and the _Coal Harbour_ (Pl. D, E, 4) are for Russian traders; the _Practical Harbour_ (Pl. D, 3, 4) is for coasting vessels. To the N. of the town, opposite the suburb of _Peressyp_, where a second breakwater and new docks are projected, lies the _Petroleum Harbour_. Opposite the New Mole (Pl. E, 4) is a massive _Flight of Granite Steps_ (193 in number) ascending to the level of the town. It is adjoined by a wire-rope elevator (3 or 2 cop.). The finest feature of this part of the town is the *=Nikoláyevsky Boulevard= (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), a broad street ¼ M. in length, which stretches along the margin of the plateau above the harbour, commanding an unimpeded view of the sea. It is bounded on one side by a series of handsome buildings, on the other by four rows of trees and pleasant grounds. In spring this is the rendezvous of the fashionable world, just as the Deribássovskaya (p. 567) is in winter. Towards the N. the houses end with the _Vorontsóv Palace_. The _Imperial Palace_ (Pl. D, 5) is also the residence of the general in command of the Odessa Military District. At the entrance to the Yekateríninskaya a bronze statue of the _Duc de Richelieu_ (Pl. 32; see above) was erected in 1826. A little to the S.W., in Catharine Square, rises the _Monument of Empress Catharine II._ (Pl. 31; D, 4), by Dmítrenko and Popóv (1900). Round the pedestal bearing the bronze statue of the empress are figures of Prince Potémkin (in front), Count Súbov (on the right), Col. de Volant (left), and Admiral J. de Ribas (at the back). The monument is 35 ft. high. From this point the Yekateríninskaya, one of the main streets of the city, leads towards the S. Just beyond the Theatre Square (see below) we turn to the right and follow the DERIBÁSSOVSKAYA (Pl. C, D, 5), a short street with the finest shops in Odessa, skirting the _Deribássov Garden_, to the— SOBÓRNAYA SQUARE (Pl. C, 5), with its pleasure-grounds and fountain. On the W. side of the square rises the _Cathedral of the Transfiguration_ (Pl. 13), founded in 1794, in length 114, in breadth 46 yds., and 164 ft. high. It has a dome, rising over the centre, and a tower 266 ft. high. In the interior, to the right of the main entrance, is the tomb of Prince Vorontsóv (d. 1856; see below).—In the grounds to the N. of the church is a bronze statue of _Prince Vorontsóv_ (Pl. 22; p. 566), by Brugger (1863).—On its E. side the square is skirted by the _Preobrashénskaya_ (Pl. C, D, 7–4), the longest street in the town. To the N. of the Sobórnaya Square diverges from the last-named street to the N.W. the Khersónskaya, with the building of the _New Russian University_ (Pl. 30; C, 4), which was opened in 1865 and contains archæological, natural history, and other collections (open on Sun. 12–2).—At the N. end of the Torgóvaya (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) is the _Rússov Picture Gallery_, with modern Russian paintings (shown on application). At the end of the Sadóvaya is the NEW BAZAAR SQUARE (Pl. C, 4), where a market is held daily. The _Market Hall_ is overshadowed by a massive building of 1847, the large _Sryétenskaya_ or _Novobasárnaya Church_ (Pl. 18), with five domes. We return by Deribássovskaya to the THEATRE SQUARE. The handsome =Town Theatre= (Pl. 29; D, 5) was erected by the Viennese architects _Fellner_ and _Hellmer_ (1887). A few paces to the W. of Theatre Square, at the S. end of the Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566), rises the TOWN HALL (_Dúma_; Pl. 7, D, E, 5), an edifice in the Greek style, with a portico of twelve columns. Adjacent are a fountain with a bronze bust of the poet _Alexander Púshkin_ (1799–1837; p. 570) and a cannon from the British man-of-war ‘Tiger’, sunk in 1854. In the square in front of the Dúma is the _Museum of Antiquities_ (Pl. 3; D, 5), with objects found at the Greek colonies on the Black Sea. From the Dúma the PÚSHKINSKAYA leads to the _Main Railway Station_ (p. 564). To the left, at the corner of the Kondratenko Street, is the _Exchange_ (Pl. 5; D, 6), a tasteful erection by Bernadazzi (1899). To the E. of the E. end of the Kondratenko Street, above the Quarantine Harbour (p. 566), lies the =Alexander Park= (Pl. E, 5, 6; restaurant, see p. 565), a popular resort where open-air concerts take place in summer in favourable weather. The _Monument of Alexander II._, a tall column of labradorite, commemorates a visit of that monarch in 1875. About ½ M. farther out is _Lansherón_, a sea-bathing place (tramway, see p. 565). From Lansherón a series of villas (datshas) and private gardens extends along the sea to the _Little Fountain_ (tramway), with a garden-restaurant (band) and good sea-bathing, _Arkadia_ (tramway; band), the _Middle Fountain_ (steam-tramway, see p. 565; excellent beach), and the _Great Fountain_ (reached from the terminus of the steam-tramway by cab, 20–30 cop.), a village with the extensive _Uspénskiy Monastery_, the goal of an annual pilgrimage. These three villages take their name from a spring which once supplied Odessa with water. Still farther to the S. is the German colony of _Lustdorf_ or _Olgino_, with vineyards and frequented sea-baths (tramway from the Great Fountain in 20 min., fare 20 cop.; cab 1½–2 roub.). See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Baedeker’s Russie_ (not yet published in English). 84. From Odessa to Batum. 723 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Odessa, see p. 565; at Batum, see p. 570). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Odessa to Batum (and Constantinople) every fourth Monday. Passengers between the two Russian ports are not carried. Fares from Constantinople as at p. 571.—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (direct Crimea and Caucasus Line) from Odessa to Batum every Mon. aft. or even. (from Batum every Sun. night), viâ Sebastopol, Yalta, Feodóssiya, and Novorossysk, in 4 days (1st cl. 41¾ roub.). _Odessa_, see p. 564. The LLOYD STEAMERS pursue a S.E. course, straight towards _Cape Chersonese_ (see p. 569). The flat _Cape Tarkhankut_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the =Crimea= (p. xxxiv) or _Tauric Peninsula_ (the ancient _Chersonesus Taurica_), remains out of sight. On the S.E. the _Yaila Mts._, extending to the _Chatyr-Dagh_ (4990 ft.), gradually come into view, along with the hilly district in front of them sloping thence to the rolling steppes in the N. part of the Crimea. In clear weather we may descry to the E. _Cape Constantine_, the N. horn of the _Bay of Sebastopol_ (Russ. _Sevastópol_), the best natural harbour of the Black Sea, measuring about 4½ M. from side to side. The higher parts of the town of _Sebastopol_, the chief naval harbour of S. Russia, famous for its siege (1854–5) during the Crimean War, also are visible. [Illustration: IALTA] As soon as we have rounded the flat _Cape Chersonese_ (lighthouse), the S.W. extremity of the Crimea, we see before us the S. coast of the peninsula, rising gradually to the precipices of Cape Aiya. To the left rises _Cape Fiolente_, the _Parthenium_ of the ancients, the supposed site of the sanctuary of Artemis in which Iphigenia served as priestess. Beyond it, above the steep and wooded shore, is _St. George’s Monastery_, founded in 988. In the distance, between bare rocks on either hand, is the narrow entrance to the _Bay of Balaclava_, supposed to correspond with Homer’s description of the Læstrygonian Bay (Odyss. X, 86–94). The picturesque little town of _Balaclava_, the ancient _Symbolon Portus_ and the seat in the middle ages of the Genoese colony of _Cémbalo_, was the chief base of the British army in the Crimean war, famed for the gallant charge of the Light Brigade (25th Oct., 1854), commemorated by Tennyson. Beyond _Cape Aiya_ (1919 ft.), which in clear weather is visible for some 68 M., opens the _Bay of Laspi_, enclosed by the W. spurs of the Yaila Mts. When abreast of _Cape Sarýtsh_ (lighthouse), the S. point of the Crimea, below the _Church of Foros_ and the _Baidar Gate_ (1634 ft.; celebrated for its view), the Lloyd vessels pursue an E.S.E. course direct for Batum. The picturesque and exuberantly fertile coast of the so-called _Russian Riviera_ lies to our left, but all that we can descry are the precipitous _Cape Kikeneïs_, the range of the _Ai-Petri_ (4046 ft.), and the distant Cape Ai-Todór (see below). The RUSSIAN STEAMER calls first at _Sebastopol_ (p. 568) and beyond Cape Sarýtsh steers near the coast. The chief points visible are _Mshátka_, _Miláss_ (recognizable by its four towers), Cape Kikeneïs (see above), and the lofty and abrupt cliff of _Divo_, below _Lemény_. We soon sight the superb château of Alúpka (p. 570), with Mt. Ai-Petri, the white Moorish château of _Julber_, and _Cape Ai-Todór_, with the villa of Schwalbennest. Beyond the headland Yálta is disclosed to view. In the distance to the N.E. rises _Ayu-Dagh_ (‘bear hill’; 1854 ft.). We pass Oreánda and Livadia (p. 570) and land at the mole of— =Yálta.=—HOTELS. *_Rossíya_ (Pl. a), R. from 2–3, B. ¾, D. 1¼ roub.; _Fránziya_ (Pl. c). rather cheaper; _Hôt. de Yalta_ (Pl. d), in a high site, good, R. from 1½ roub., D. from 80 cop. to 1 roub.; _Márino_ (Pl. i); _Oreánda_; _Métropole_; _Grand-Hôtel_ (Pl. f), etc.—RESTAURANT in the public gardens D. ½–1 roub. CABS (good ‘phaetons’ and pair). Drive in the town (also to or from harbour) 20–50 cop. (luggage 10 cop.); hour 70, each addit. ½ hr. 30 cop.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, at the Oreánda Hotel (see above).—SEA BATHS (10–15 cop.), on the Nábereshnaya (stony beach).—The Yalta section of the _Club Alpin de Crimée_ arranges, from April to Oct., drives (fare 1½ roub.) and walks in the environs. In the club-house (Pl. 3; with museum and meteorological station), beside the police-bridge, the programme for the week may be consulted. _Yálta_ or _Jálta_, the capital of a district, with 20,000 inhab., most picturesquely situated in a bay formed by the spurs of the abrupt Yaila Mts. (p. 568), is the most fashionable watering-place in the Crimea (mean annual temperature 57° Fahr.). The Nábereshnaya or Marine Esplanade and the adjacent shady town-garden (20 cop.) are the chief promenades. To the E. of Yalta, and reached in 1 hr. by the upper road to Gursuff (see below), is the (3 M.) beautiful park of *_Lower Massándra_ (carr. there and back 1 roub. 60 cop.; adm. by season-tickets which are issued free of charge at the director’s office on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5). Adjacent, on the N.E., is _Upper Massándra_, with a small imperial château.—To the E. of Lower Massándra are the vineyards of _Maharátsh_ and (4½ M. from Yalta) _Nikíta_, with an interesting acclimatization-garden, founded in 1812. In beautiful grounds about 2 M. to the S.W. of Yalta are the two imperial palaces of _Livádia_. Adm. on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5, on showing one’s passport at the director’s office. From the park of Livadia we may next go by the ‘Lower Road’ to the adjoining park of _Oreánda_ (carr. from Yalta 3 roub. 20 cop.), which likewise is imperial property. Since it was burned in 1882 the castle has remained a ruin. A good view is obtained from the _Krestóvaya Gorá_ (614 ft.) or ‘Hill of the Holy Cross’. About 11 M. to the S.W. of Yalta (carr. 3 roub. 20 cop.; also local steamers), on the coast, lies _Alúpka_, with a beautiful park and a château in the Gothic-Moorish style, built by Blore in 1837 for Prince Vorontsóv (p. 566).—About 9 M. to the N.E. of Yalta is _Gursuff_ (carr. 5 roub. 60 cop.; also local steamers), in a charming situation, with good sea-baths. In the former château of the Duc de Richelieu Púshkin (p. 567) lived in 1820. Beyond Yalta the direct Russian steamers continue their voyage along the coast, which farther on becomes increasingly level, to _Feodossiya_ or _Theodosia_ (p. xxxiv), the chief commercial port of the Crimea. Hence they steer to the S.E., leaving the _Straits of Kertch_ (see below) to the left, to the beautifully situated seaport of _Novorossysk_. From the last port to _Batum_ the steamers follow a similar course to that of the Lloyd Steamers described below. See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Russie_ (no English edition). The LLOYD STEAMER now makes for the open sea, leaving the _Straits of Kertch_ or _Yeníkale_ (the ancient _Cimmerian Bosporus_), the entrance to the Sea of Azov (p. 561), far to port (left). The S.W. slope of the _Great Caucasus_, the mighty frontier-wall between Europe and Asia, which has been almost uninhabited since the emigration of the Circassians in 1865, does not become visible until we are abreast of _Gagry_. When we are nearly opposite the mouth of the Ingúr we may descry in clear weather the two snowy domes of the volcanic _Elbruz_, or, as it is sometimes called, _Elburz_ (18,468 ft.), the chief height of the _Central Caucasus_. As the boat holds its course in the direction of _Batum_ the _Ajara Mts._ (_Lazistan_, p. 571), belonging to the _Little Caucasus_ (‘Armenian Highlands’) rise to the E., separated from the Great Caucasus by the ancient land of _Colchis_, the marshy plain of the _Rion_ (the ancient _Phasis_). The _Harbour of Batum_, opening to the N., is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. storms of winter by _Cape Batum_ (lighthouse). =Batum.=—ARRIVAL. All the steamers are moored alongside the quay; hand baggage 5 cop., heavy luggage 10 cop. each package. HOTELS. _Fránziya_, Micháilovskaya; _Impérial_, Kutaïskaya, R. 1½–10, B. ½ roub.; _Oriental_, Nábereshnaya.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Maríinsky Prospekt.—CAB from harbour or station to town 40, drive 25, hour 60 cop. CONSULS. British, _P. W. J. Stevens_.—United States, _A. Heingartner_; vice-consul, _E. Mattievich_. STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _North German Lloyd_, Schutz & Zimmermann; _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Arkadaksky; _Austrian Lloyd_, Marcetich; _Messageries Maritimes_, De Cortenze; _Società Nazionale_, Valazzi; _N. Paquet & Co._, Victor d’Arnaud. _Batum_, a town of ca. 30,000 inhab., was the ancient _Bathys_, a place of little importance. In modern times, under the name of _Bathumi_, it was a Turkish frontier-fortress down to 1878. By the terms of the Berlin Congress of that year it passed to Russia (along with Kars), and it is now the strongly-fortified capital of the Russian province of its own name. The town, which has the most important harbour on the E. coast of the Black Sea, owes its present prosperity to the construction of the railway to Bakú, on the Caspian Sea. The staples of its trade are petroleum products (annual exports 1¼ million tons), manganese ore, liquorice, silk-cocoons, and wool. Along the beach runs the _Boulevard_, above which to the S. rises the _Alexander Névsky Cathedral_, built in 1903. About ¾ M. to the S. lies the _Railway Station_, and near by is a _Roman Catholic Church_. In the W. part of the town, on _Lake Nurie_, is the _Alexander Park_, with subtropical vegetation. To the S.W. of the town, beyond Cape Batum, is the marshy and fever-stricken _Delta of the Chorokh_. See also _Baedeker’s Russland_ or _Russie_ (no English edition). 85. From Batum to Constantinople. 726 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Batum, see p. 570; at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Batum every alternate Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli (fare 80 or 56 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._ (Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu, Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food extra).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_, from Batum Frid. midnight (from Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—=4.= _Messageries Maritimes_, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—=5.= _N. Paquet & Co._, from Batum every second Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—=6.= _Società Nazionale_ (Line IX), from Batum every other Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.). Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p. 536. _Batum_, see p. 570. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the _Great Caucasus_ (p. 570). The rugged mountains of the _Lazistan_, covered with snow in winter, become visible as far as the _Kolat Dagh_ (about 7540 ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is _Rizeh_ (the ancient _Rhizūs_), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees. We next pass the headland _Erekli Burnu_. As we near Trebizond we see the delta of the brook _Piksit Su_ or _Matshka_ (the ancient _Pyxites_), where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp. 574, 576). * * * * * =Trebizond.=—ARRIVAL. The landing, which takes place at the pier adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by considerable difficulty. HOTELS. _Pens. Marengo_ (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine views, well spoken of; _Hôt. Suisse_ (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr. AUSTRIAN POST OFFICE (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—STEAMBOAT AGENTS, at the harbour.—BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (p. 539); _Banque d’Athènes_. CONSULATES. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, _H. Z. Longworth_.—United States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, _M. A. Jewett_; vice-consul, _I. Montesanto_. _Trebizond_, the Turkish _Tirabson_ or _Tarábosan_, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling the languages of the S. Caucasus. _Trapezūs_, founded by Milesians from Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’) castle-hill (p. 573). Next to the mother-city it was the most important Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. 575), and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. 542) it became the capital of the small Greek empire of the _Comneni_, the last of whom, _David Comnenus_, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. 542) in 1461. Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base of _Boz Tepeh_ (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. 571). The small harbour facilitates trade with the towns of the hinterland (_e. g._ Gümüshkhaneh), but it is only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at _Kalmek Point_ and a new breakwater at the headland of _Eleusa_. Notwithstanding the competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz). The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on the EAST HILL, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a battery, a lighthouse, and the _Güzel Seraï_ (Pl. B, C, 1; now artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the _Greek Cathedral_ (Pl. 6; B, 1). A little to the N. of the _Hurriyet Meïdan_, with its pleasure-grounds (Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the BAZAARS (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene, especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold and silver filigree are sold by weight. [Illustration: TREBIZOND] KEY TO NUMBERS. _Cemeteries_ (all C, 2): 1. Armenian-Catholic; 2. Greek; 3. Latin (see p. 475); 4. Protestant.—_Mosques_ and _Churches_: 5. Aï Yaneh, B 1; 6. Greek Cathedral, B 1; 7. Great Mosque, A, B 1; 8. Kathunieh Mosque, A 1; 9. Orta Hissar Jamissi, A 1; 10. St. Basilius, B 1.—11. Yeni Juma Jamissi (St. Eugenius), A 2; 12. Grounds in the Hurriyet Meïdan, B 1.—13. Seraï, A 1.—14. Zendan Kapusí, A 1.—15. British Consulate, B 2.—16. United States Consulate, B 2. Near the _Aï Yaneh Church_ (Pl. 5; B, 1), to the S. of the Bazaars, we leave behind us the Usun Sokak and pass over a _Viaduct_ (fine view) leading to the old CASTLE HILL, rising between the two ravines of the _Kuzgun Deresí_ and the _Iskeleboz Deresí_. This is now occupied by the Turkish town proper and contains the ruins of the _Byzantine Town Walls_. The chief artery of traffic leads through the _Orta Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1, 2) or older and central part of the castle. It passes (left) the SERAÏ (Pl. 13; A, 1), the seat of the governor-general, and (right) the mosque of _Orta Hissar Jamissi_ (Pl. 9; A, 1), once the church of _Panagia Chrysokephalos_, said to have been founded by Justinian. At the Seraï a street diverging to the left leads to the _Yokari Hissar_ (Pl. A, 2), or old upper castle, with the ruins of the imperial palace of the Comneni.—On the N. side of the Seraï various crooked lanes descend through the _Ashagi Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1), or lower castle, the wall of which projects over the W. ravine, to the _Fishing Harbour_, the ancient harbour of Trapezūs, where remains of an almost semicircular quay are still visible under water The appearance of the fishing-boats is very quaint. Through the _Zendan Kapusí_ (Pl. 14; A, 1), or W. gate, we pass from the Seraï over a second viaduct to the WEST HILL. Here lie (on the left) the picturesque _Turkish Cemetery_ and a suburb occupied by Turks and Greeks. Beyond the infantry-barracks, at the W. end of this suburb, rises the old _Aya Sóphia Church_, now a mosque. Beautiful *VIEWS are obtained from the caves of _Kirk Batal_ (Pl. B, C, 2), on the slope of Boz Tepeh (p. 572), above the Greek cemetery, and from the high-lying Greek nunnery of _Panaya Theoskepastos_ (Turk. _Kizlar Monastir_; Pl. B, 2). A pleasant DRIVE (or walk or ride) may be taken to the hill of _Suk-Su_ in the S.W. with the summer-residences of the wealthier Greeks; or to the W. along the coast to (1 hr.) _Platana_ (see below; motor-omn. 15 pias.; carr. there and back 40–50 pias.); or to the S., through the _Pyxites Valley_ (p. 572), following a road traversed by many camel-caravans, and ascending steeply to (4 hrs.) _Jevislik_ (carr. there and back 80 pias.; provisions should be taken). * * * * * Beyond Trebizond the STEAMER passes the little port of _Platana_, the ancient _Hermonassa_, with a good roadstead, protected against the W. and N.W. winds. The lofty _Cape Yoros_ or _Ieros_ (ancient _Hieron_; lighthouse), is visible for some 65 M. and is locally regarded as an infallible barometer. =Tireboli=, the _Tripolis_ of the Greeks, the next seaport, now a quiet little town with 5000 inhab., lies, like Kerasun, amid the magnificent rocky scenery of the spurs of the _Sis Dagh_ (9220 ft.) and the _Chal Dagh_ (6450 ft.), the summits of which are often covered with snow. Roads lead thence inland to the towns of _Gümüshkhaneh_ and _Karahissar_. Farther on, beyond _Cape Zephyros_ (Turk. _Zefireh Burnu_) we reach the seaport of =Kerasun= or _Kerasund_ (Turk. _Kiresün_, Greek _Kireson_), founded under the name of _Kerasūs_ by the Milesians of Sinope and now a town of about 18,000 inhabitants. Like Trebizond it was one of the resting-places of the Ten Thousand under Xenophon (p. 572). Its situation on and behind a small peninsula (about 425 ft.; lighthouse), which used to be fortified, and backed by superb mountains is very picturesque. The poor anchorage of the steamers is on the W. side of the peninsula, near the pier and the custom-house. Owing to the want of good communication with the hinterland its maritime commerce is insignificant. The steamers seldom call at _Ordu_, the ancient _Kotyora_, but steer across the _Bay of Vona_, the winter quarters of most of the sailing-vessels on this coast, which is admirably sheltered by _Cape Vona_ (_Boōna Promontorium_; lighthouse). Beyond _Yasun Burnu_ (_Jasonium Promontorium_), the name of which commemorates the legendary voyage of Jason and the Argonauts (see p. 560), the coast recedes far to the S. Without touching at the little seaport of _Üniyeh_ or _Unia_ (once _Œnoē_), the steamer passes the _Chiva_ or _Chalti Burnu_ (_Heracleum Promontorium_) and the large delta of the _Yeshil Irmak_ (formerly _Iris_; beacon), which is navigable for small vessels in winter only, and steers direct towards the broad _Bay of Samsun_ (landing or embarkation 7½ pias.), which is enclosed by low hills clad with plantations of tobacco and maize. =Samsun.=—HOTEL. _Mantika_, near the Banque Ottomane, R. 2–5, pens. 15 fr. (bargain advisable).— _Restaurant Yanni_, near the tobacco-factory. BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_, _Banque d’Athènes_, _Banque de Salonique_.—POST OFFICES. _Turkish_, _French_, and others, near the custom-house. CONSULS. British, _B. Ch. Papadopulos_.—United States Consular Agent, _William Peter_. _Samsun_, a town with about 30,000 inhab., was in antiquity an important Greek colony under the name of _Amisus_ and is now the chief trading-place on the N. coast of Asia Minor. The chief exports are tobacco, flour, grain, and linseed. The manufactured goods it imports are forwarded mainly by trains of wagons or camels to such inland places as Mersifun, Amasia (once Amasea, the home of Strabo), Tokat (Comana), Sivas (Sebastia), and Kaisarieh (Cæsarea). From the custom-house we turn to the left to the _Market Place_ with its clock-tower. A well-paved street leads thence to the _Banque Ottomane_. Farther to the E., on the shore, are the _Seraï_ (see p. 483) and several _Consulates_. The attractive _Villa Quarter_, occupied by Armenian and Greek merchants, conveys an impression of great prosperity. Beyond Samsun the sandy coast juts out far towards the N.W. We pass the strip of land separating the sea from the large lagoon _Ak Göl_, the vicinity of which is infested by fever. _Cape Bafra_ (beacon), a little farther on, is near the delta of the _Kizil Irmak_ (_Halys_), which in B.C. 301–183 formed the boundary between the kingdom of _Pontus_ and _Paphlagonia_. Though the largest river in Asia Minor the Kizil Irmak is not navigable. Beyond the month of the Halys we come to a broad semicircular bay. On its N. shore, beyond the peninsula of _Boz Tepeh Burnu_ (about 650 ft.; beacon), is a tongue of land on which stands =Sinōpe= (Turk. _Sinob_), the oldest of the colonies established on the coast of the Black Sea by the Greeks of Miletus (p. 491) and long the most powerful. Sinope was the home of Diogenes the Cynic (about B. C. 412–323). Here Xenophon’s Ten Thousand (p. 574) took ship on their way back to Byzantium (p. 541) at the conclusion of the toilsome Anabasis. It was also the residence of Mithridates VI. (B. C. 120–63; comp. p. 507), the last king of Pontus, who was famous both for his linguistic accomplishments and his military powers. He extended his sway over the whole of Asia Minor and the Crimea (p. 568), but was finally subdued by the Romans in three hardfought campaigns. Sinope, formerly the starting-point of an important caravan-route to Cappadocia and the lands of the Euphrates, now possesses, notwithstanding its excellent harbour, little more than the shadow of its former greatness. The poor little town, inhabited by about 8000 Greeks and Turks, entirely lacks roads to the interior. The barracks at the W. end of the headland serve as a quarantine lazaretto. We next steam past _Injeh Burun_ (_Syrias Promontorium_; beacon), the northmost point of Asia Minor, and skirt a hilly, well-wooded, but thinly peopled stretch of the shore. =Ineboli= (_Ionopolis_), the chief seaport of this part of the coast, situated on the little river of that same name, is a poor little town with Turkish timber-built houses (p. 542) and a ruined castle. The roads, with their breakwater in ruins, are exposed to every wind and are often inaccessible in winter for days together. A road leads hence to (ca. 50 M.) _Kastamuni_, the present capital of the ancient Paphlagonia. The small ports beyond _Cape Kerembe_ (_Carambis Promontorium_; lights), where the coast again turns to the S.W., are not touched at by the large steamers. Farther on, in the ancient _Bithynia_, appear the prominent _Cape Baba_ (_Acherusia Promontorium_; beacon) and _Cape Kirpe_ or _Kerpe_, with the small island of _Kirpe_ (_Thynias_; beacon). Near Cape Baba lay the important Greek colony of _Heraclea Pontica_, now called _Erekli_ or _Bender Eregli_. Farther on is the _Yum Burnu_ (p. 560), which is visible at a distance of 17 M. and marks the N. entrance to the Bosporus. For the passage of the _Bosporus_ and the arrival in _Constantinople_, see pp. 560–558 and p. 536. INDEX Abbas (Abbès), 387. Abbâsîyeh, 459. Abda, 109. Abdalajis, Sierra de, 72. Abd el-Kader, Anse d’, 262. El-Abîd, 206. Abruzzi, 428. Abu Hammâd, 438. Abukîr, Fort, 418. Abu Nemrûs, 464. Abusîr (near Alexandria), 418. — (near Cairo), 464. Abydos, 534. Abyla, 54. Acherit, Forêt d’, 266. Acherusia Promontorium, 576. Acho, Monte del, 103. Acholla, 370. Aci Castello, 159. Acif Djerra, 258. — el-Hammam, 261. — Tléta, 254. Acireale, 158. Acre, 469. —, Bay of, 468. Acrite, 490. Acroceraunian Mts., 496. Adeje, 42. Adélia, 211. Adeni, 257. Ad Fratres, 198. Adjeroud, 125. El-Adjiba, 251. Adjim, 394. Ad Piscinam, 283. Adramyti, 533. Adrianopolis, 413. Ad Septem Fratres, 103. Aduares, Barranco, 48. Ægadean Islands, 153. Ægaleon, Mt., 502. Ægaleos, Mt., 494. Ægean Sea, 490. Ægimurus, 153. Ægina, Bay of, 494. Ægion, 501. Ægospotamoi, 534. Ægusa, 153. Ælia Aurelia Augusta Mactaris, 360. — Capitolina, 472. Æolian Islands, 155. Æthalia, 143. Æthusa, 396. Ætna, Mt., 159. Afdalah, 107. Affreville, 210. El-Affroun, 213. Agadie, 267. Agâdir (Morocco), 110. — (near Tlemcen), 196. Agbia, 357. Aggarsel Nepte, 387. Aggersel, 365. Agha, 217. Aghir, 394. Agua, Cabo del, 124. — García, Forest of, 38. — Mansa, 40. Aguia, Penha d’, 27. Ahaggar, Highlands of, 169. Aidour, Pic d’, 182. Aiguades, Anse des, 265. Aiguille, Pointe de l’, 125, 126. Aïn-Abessa, 269. — -Abid, 306. — -Affra, 312. — -Amara, 306. — el-Arba, 184. — -Beïda, 273. — -Bessem, 250. — Bou-Ras, 354. — -Dalia (Morocco), 102. — -Daliah (near Bona), 303. — -Douz, 197. — -Draham, 327. — -Fakroun, 272. — -Fezza, 186. — Fîjeh, 484. — -Garci, 365. — -Ghrasesia, 370. — -el-Hadjadj, 203. — -el-Hadjar (Algeria), 201. — el-Hajar (Morocco), 110. — -Hallouf, 365. — el-Hamda, 269. — el-Hammam, 273. — -Hedja, 357. — el-Ibel, 215. — el-Jedida, 102. — -Khamouda, 371. — -Kial, 185. — -Kissa, 315. — -Mader, 392. — -Meslout, 206. — -Mesria, 362. — -Mimoun, 273. — -M’Lila, 274. — -Mokra, 303. — -Moularès, 372. — -Naga, 284. — -Oussara, 215. — -Regada, 306. — -Rharsalla, 357. — -Rhelal, 351. — -Roua, 269. — -Roumi, 328. — -St. Charles, 307. — -Sefra, 202. — -Sennour, 312. — -Sfissifa, 203. — -Smara, 272. — -Sultan, 258. — -Tahamimine, 312. — -Talaouart, 269. — -Talazit, 215. — -Tassera, 271. — -Taya, 248. — -Tédelès, 207. — -Tellout, 186. — -Temouchent, 185. — -Tounga, 354. — -et-Turk, 184. — -Tzadert, 206. — -Yagout, 274. — -Zannouch, 383. — -Zatout, 278. — -Zeft, 208. Ai-Petri, 569. Aït Akerma Mts., 260. — -Atelli, 258. — -Frah, 258. — -Krelifa, 258. — -Lahssen, 258. — -Larbâa, 257. — -Mellal, 259. Ai-Todór, Cape, 569. Aït-Ouabane, 259. — -Saada, 259. — -Touddeurt, 258. — Yahia, 258. Aivaly, 533. Aiya, Cape, 569. Ajaccio, Bay of, 133. Ajara Mts., 570. Akbou, 251. Akfadou, Forêt d’, 261. Ak Göl, 575. El-Akhouat, 360. Akinti Burnu, 558. Akir, 470. Akka (Akko), 469. Akkerman, 564. Akmês, Pointe, 131. Akouda, 366. Akrotiri, 489. Aktē (headland), 494. Alassio, 113. Alban Mts., 135. Albania, 496. Albâtre, Montagne d’, 278. Albenga, 113. Alboasa, Cape, 123. Alborán, 117. Albufeira, 5. Albulae, 185. Alcántara, the, 158. Alcázar, Punta, 123. Aleih, 483. Alexandreia Troas, 533. Alexandria, 431, xxxiii. Algarve, 5. Algeciras, 56. —, Bay of, 6. Algeria, 168. =Algiers=, 217. Académie, 228. Agha-Inférieur, 232. — -Supérieur, 228. Archevêché, 224. Arrière-Port, 223. Avenue Bab el-Oued, 224. — Malakoff, 236. Belcourt, 232. El-Biar, 234. Birmandreis, 231. Birtraria, 234. Bois de Boulogne, 230. Boulevard Bru, 231. — Carnot, 222. — de France, 222. — de la République, 222. — de la Victoire, 227. — Laferrière, 226. — Valée, 228. Bouzaréah, 235. —, Mont, 235. Cabs, 218. Campagne Bellevue, 231. Cemeteries, 227, 231, 232, 236. Champ de Manœuvres, 232. Château d’Hydra, 231. — -Neuf, 234. Chemin de Maclay, 231. — du Télemly, 230. Chéraga, 234. Churches: Cathedral, 225. English, 230, 220. Notre-Dame d’Afrique, 236. — des Victoires, 224. St. Augustin, 226. Scottish, 228, 220. Cimetière d’el-Kettar, 227. — de Mustapha, 231. — Musulman de Belcourt, 232. Cité Bugeaud, 234. Colonne Voirol, 230. Conseil Général, 224. Consuls, 219. Dâr Soof, 225. Dépêche Algérienne, 226. Deux-Moulins, 236. English Cemetery, 231. — Church, 230, 220. Escaliers de la Pêcherie, 223. — du Bastion Central, 223. Fish Market, 223. Fontaine du Hamma, 232. Forêt de Baïnem, 235. Fort de la Bouzaréah, 235. — des Anglais, 236. — des Arcades, 231. — Duperré, 236. — l’Empereur, 234. Frais-Vallon, 234. Gouvernement, Bureaux du, 225. Grotte de Cervantes, 232. Hamma, Le, 232. Harbour, 222. Hôpital Militaire du Dey, 235. Hotels, 217. Hussein-Dey, 233. Jardin d’Essai, 232. — du Hamma, 232. — Marengo, 224. Jenina, 224. Jetée du Nord, 222. Jewish Cemetery, 236. Kasba, 227. Kouba, 233. Kursaal Theatre, 224. Lycée National, 224. Marché de Chartres, 226. — de la Lyre, 226. Medersa, 228. Monuments: Duke of Orleans, 223. Mac Mahon, 230. Marshal Bugeaud, 226. Mosques: Great, 224. Ketshâwa, 225. Mozabites, 226. de la Pêcherie, 223. Sidi Abderrahmân, 228. — Mohammed ech-Chériff, 227. Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts, 226. Museum, 229. Mustapha-Inférieur, 232. — -Supérieur, 228. National Library, 225. Observatoire, 235. Orphelinat St. Vincent-de-Paul, 230. Oued bel-Elzar, 234. — Knis, 231. — M’Kacel, 234. Palais Consulaire, 223. — de Justice, 226. — de l’Amirauté, 223. — d’Eté du Gouverneur, 230. — d’Hiver du Gouverneur, 225. Phare, 223. Place de la République, 222. — du Gouvernement, 223. — Malakoff, 224. Plaine de Mustapha, 228. Plateau Saulière, 228. Porte du Sahel, 233. Post Office, 219, 226. Préfecture, 222. Presqu’île de l’Amirauté, 223. Quai de la Marine, 222. Quartier Bab el-Oued, 234. — de l’Esplanade, 236. — des Tagarins, 228. — d’Isly, 230. Railway Stations, 217. Rampe de l’Amirauté, 223. Rampes Chasseloup-Laubat, 223. — Magenta, 223. Ratto, Dwelling House of M., 225. Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, 231. — des Sept-Sources, 230. Rue Bab el-Oued, 224. — de Constantine, 226. — de la Kasba, 227. — de la Porte-Neuve, 227. — de Lyon, 232. — d’Isly, 226. — Kléber, 227. — Marengo, 228. — Michelet, 228. — Randon, 227. — Sadi-Carnot, 232. Ruisseau, Le, 231. St. Eugène, 236. — Raphaël, 234. Scottish Church, 228, 220. Square Bresson, 222. Staouéli-Trappe, 234. Station Zoologique, 223. Steamboat Agents, 219. Synagogue, 227. Théâtre Municipal, 222. Tramways, 218. Turkish Fountain, 223. University, 228. Vallée des Consuls, 236. Vieux-Kouba, 231. Villa des Grottes, 231. — Sesini, 231. Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah, 235. Algiers, Bay of, 118. —, Sahel of, 221, 169. Alhama, 72. —, Sierra de, 89. Alhucemas, Islas de, 123. Ali, 158. El-Alia, 370. Alicante, 112. Alicuri, 146. Allaghan, 251. Allélik, 309. Alma, 249. Almeida, Barranco de, 36. Almería, 112. Almijara, Sierra de, 112. Almina, 103. —, Punta de la, 123. Almodóvar, 68. Alora, 88. Altava, 186. Alta Vista, 41. Althiburus, 362. Alúpka, 570. Alupo, Cape, 490. Alvo, Monte, 144. Amalfi, 155. Amaro, Monte, 428. Ameradsa, 278. Ameur-el-Aïn, 243. Amisus, 575. Ammaedara, 362. Amorgós, 417. Amoucha, 269. Amrûs, 411. Anafe, 107. Anaga Mts., 33. —, Punta de, 33. Anaphe, 417. Anăpo, 162. Anastasia Islands, 562. Anatolia, 490. Anatoli Fanar, 560. — Hissar, 558. — Kavak, 560. Ancona, 427. Andalouses, Plaine des, 184. Andalusia, 49. Andros, 529. Anfa, 107. Angad, Plaine des, 197. Angustias, Barranco de las, 48. Anjera Mts., 103. Announa, 307. Antequera, 72. —, Punta, 33. Anti-Atlas, 93. Antibes, Cap d’, 112. Anticaria, 72. Antigoni, 535. Anti-Lebanon, 483, xxxiv. Antipaxos, 500. Antipyrgos, 415. Aokas, Cape, 266. Aomar, 250. El-Aouaria, 153. Apano-Garuna, 499. Apennines, 113, 427. Apes’ Hill, 103. Aphrodisium, 365. Apisa Majus, 359. Apollonia (Palestine), 468. — (Tripolitania), 414. Apsorus Insula, 429. Apuan Alps, 134. Aquæ Calidæ, 212. — Carpitanae, 364. — Flavianae, 273. — Herculis, 278. — Sirenses, 200. — Tacapitanae, 388. — Thibilitanae, 307. Aquila, Cape, 133. Aquilaria, 153. Arabian Desert, 438. — Gulf, 415. Arafo, 40. —, the, 36. El-Araïsh, 104. Aram, 391. Arba, L’, 247. Arbal, 184. Arbatax, 144. Archi, 159. Archichina, 389. Archidona, 72. Areeiro, Pico, 27. Areiya, 483. Arena, Barranco de la, 40. Argennon, 492. Argentario, Monte, 135. Argolis, 494. El-Ariana, 338. Arib, Les, 210. Aribs, Plaine des, 250. Aris, 278. Arkadia, 568. Arki, 490. Arktonnesos, 535. Armascla, the, 327. Armi, Capo dell’, 159. Arnautkiöi, 558. Arona, 42. El-Aroussa, 360. Arrebentão, Pico do, 27. El-Arrouch, 303. Arsachena, Bay of, 133. Arsinoë, 413. Arslan Burun, 530. Arsûf, 468. Artaki, Bay of, 535. Artenara, 46. Arucas, 47. Arzew, 199. Arzila, 104. Asfi, 109. Asia Minor, 490. Askania, 492. Aspis, 405. Aspra Vuná, 415. Aspro, Kavo, 500. Aspromonte, 155. Assos, 533. Asthoret, 304. Astropalia or Astypalaea, 492. Atabyrion, 490. Atalaya, 46. Atalayasa, 112. Atarfe, 73. El-Ateuf, 216. =Athens=, 502. Academy of Science, 525. Acropolis, 512. — Museum, 518. Akademeia, 528. Areopagus, 512. Asklepieion, 511. Ave. of the Apostle Paul, 524. Belvedere, 518. Boulevard de l’Université, 525. — Syngrós, 495. Burial Ground outside the Dipylon, 523. Byron, Statue of, 508. Cafés, 503. Churches: Constantine, 525. English, 504, 508. Kapnikaræa, 520. Little Metropolis, 520. Metropolitan, 520. Panagia Gorgópiko, 520. Roman Catholic, 525. City Wall, 523. Consulates, 504. Dionysion en Limnais, 512. Dionysios Areopagites Street, 510. Dionysos, Theatre of, 510. Dipylon, 522. Electric Railway, 503. Erechtheion, 517. Erechtheus, Palace of, 518. Georgios Chapel, 528. Hadrian’s Arch, 508. — Library, 520. Hagia Marina Hill, 524. — Triáda or Trias, 522. Hagios Demetrios Lumpardiaris, 524. Hekatompedon, 518. History, 505. Horológion of Andronikos, 520. Hotels, 502. Ilissos, the, 509. Kerameikos, 522. Kimonian Wall, 518. Kolokythu, 528. Kolonos Agoraeos, 521. — Hill, 528. Library, 525. Lykabettos, 528. Lysikrates, Monument of, 510. Market, 522. — Gate, 521. Museion, 524. Museum, Historical and Ethnological, 526. —, National Archæological, 526. —, Numismatic, 525. Mycenæan Antiquities, 526. National Theatre, 525. Nike, Temple of, 513. Nymphs, Hill of the, 524. Observatory, 524. Odeion of Herodes Atticus, 511. Olympieion, 509. Palace, Royal, 508. Parliament House, 525. Parthenon, 515. Pelasgic Wall, 517. Phaleron, New, 528. —, Old, 528. Philopappos, Monument of, 524. Place de la Concorde, 525. — de la Constitution, 508. Pnyx Hill, 524. Polytechnic Institute, 526. Post Office, 504. Propylæa, 513. Restaurants, 503. Rue d’Eole, 520. — de Patisia, 525. — d’Hermès, 520. — du Stade, 525. Schliemann’s House, 525. Stables, Royal, 525. Stadion, 509. Stoa of Attalos, 521. — Basileios, 522. — of Eumenes II., 511. — of Giants, 521. — of Hadrian, 520. Syntagma Square, 508. Telegraph Office, 504. Temple of Roma and of Augustus, 518. Theatres, 504. Theseion, 521. Tower of the Winds, 520. Tramways, 503. University, 525. Water Conduit, 528. Zappion, 508. Atlas, 93. — of Blida, 169. Atlît, 468. Attafs, Plaine des, 209. Attáiros, Mt., 490. Attard, 403. Augusta, 159. Aumale, 250. Aunobaris, 357. Aurès Mts., 278. Aux Deux-Fontaines, 268. Auzia, 250. Axarquía, 88. Axin, Cape, 131. Ayu Dagh, 569. Azazga, 261. Azeffoun, 130. Azerou ou Gougane, 258. — es-Guessig, 258. — -Kellat, 258. — Madène, 259. — -Ncennad, 258. — Thaltatt, 258. — Tidjer, 259. — n-Tirourda, 259, 260. — n-Tohor, 260. Azib-ben-Ali-Chérif, 251. Azimmûr, 108. Azov, Sea of, 561, xxxiv. Azulejos, Los (Peak of Teneriffe), 42. Baba, Cape, 576. — Burnu, 533. Bâb el-Kebîr, 270. — es-Serîr, 270. Babors, Chaîne des, 268. Babouch, 327. Bab-Taza, Col de, 198. Babylon (Cairo), 460, 443. Badajoz, Barranco de, 36. Bafra, Cape, 575. Bagai, 273. Bagdbâd, Plaine de, 205. Baghaï, 273. Bagnara, 155. Bahira, Lake, 153. Baidar Gate, 569. Baïnem, Forêt de, 235. Bains de la Reine, 183. — Romains, 237. Baither, 470. Bajamar, 37. Balaclava, 569. Balah, Lake, 438. Balearic Islands, 112. — Sea, 126. Balerm, 148. Balkans, Little, 562. Bandas del Sur, 42. Barbate, Bay of, 57. Barca, 414, xxxiii. Barcola, 427. Bari, 428. Barrage, 200. —, Le, 209. Barral, 308. El-Bathan, Bridge of, 329. Bathys, 571. Batna, 275. Batum (Bathumi), 570. —, Cape, 570. Beaulieu, 112. Bebek, 558. Bec de l’Aigle, 133. Bedrashein, 464. El-Beïda, 201. Beïkos, 559. Beirut, 481. Béja, 328. Bekalta, 369. Belad el-Jerid, 386. Belbina, 494. Belcourt, 127. Beleliéta, Massif du, 308. Bel-Hacel, 207. Bellavista, Capo di, 144. Belle-Fontaine, 250. Bellezma Mts., 275. Belvedere, 166. Ben-Bachir, 327. — -Chicao, 215. Bender Eregli, 576. Benghazi, 412. Bengut, Cape, 254. Benha, 438. Benhisa Point, 411. Beni Abbès Mts., 251. — Addi, Hills of the, 308. — Aïcha, Col des, 250. — -Amran, 250. — Amrous Hills, 266. — -Barca, 392. — Bou Aïssi Mts., 266. — Chougrane Mts., 200. — -Ferah, 278. — Hassain Mts., 266. — -Hindel, 209. — -Isguen, 216. — -Ismaïl, 268. — -Kalfoun, Massif des, 250. — -Mansour, 251. — — Hills, 269. — Mekla Hills, 253. — -Mered, 216. — Mimoun Djoua Mts., 266. — -Mora, 283. — -Ounif de Figuig, 203. — -Saf, 185. — -Salah Hills, 308. — —, Pic des, 214. — Slimane Mts., 266. — Smaïl Mts., 254. Benizze, 499. Bent-Zert, 353. Benzus, Bay of, 123. Bérard, 238. El-Berd, 285. Berenice, 413. Bergama, 533. Berlengas Islands, 4. Bermeja, Sierra, 111. Berrian, 216. Berrouagbia, 215. Berta, Cape, 113. Berytus, 482. Besbikos, 535. Bescĕra, 280. Beshiktash, 558. Besika Bay, 533. Bethar, 470. Bethlehem, 480. Betoya, 123. Bettioua, 199. Beylerbey, 558. Beyrout, 482. Bianco, Capo, 492. El-Biar, 234. Biar el-Alia, 370. Biban, Chaîne des, 270. Biga Sher Chai, 535. Bijouville, 352. El-Bikâ, 483. Bir el-Asli, 286. — Bou-Rekba, 364. Birchircara, 403. El-Bireh, 468. Bir-Kassa, 358. Birmandreis, 231. Bir-Rabalou, 248. — Saâd, 385. — Saâdou, 392. — Sethil, 284. Birtouta-Chebli, 216. Birtraria, 234. Biscay, Bay of, 2. Biskra, 279. Bithynia, 535, 576. Bittir, 470. Bizerta, 352. — Hills, 132. Bizerte, Cap de, 129. —, Lac de, 352. Bizot, 303. Black Sea, 561, xxxiv. Blad-Guitoun, 253. — el-Hawa, 297. Blanc, Cap (Algeria), 243. —, — (Tunisia), 129. Blanco, Cabo, 108. Blanquilla, Torre, 101. Bled el-Adhar, 387. Bleda Islets, 112. Bled Bakora, 244. — el-Hamra, 383. — Maknassi, 383. — Zouarine, 361. Blida, 213. Bobadilla, 57. Bocca Grande, the (Corsica), 133. — —, the (near Naples), 118. — Piccola, 154. Bodes, Pico dos, 26. Boeo, Capo, 153. Boghari, 215. Boghaz, Straits of, 418. — Hissar, 534. Boghni, 254. Bolshoi Fontan, 564. Bomba, Gulf of, 415. Bon, Cape, 153. Bona (Bône), 309, 131. —, Gulf of, 128. Bône, Plaine de, 308. Bonifacio, 133. Boōna Promontorium, 575. Bordighera, 113. Bordj el-Amri, 354. — -Bou-Arréridj, 270. — Cédria, 364. — Chegga, 284. — Djedid, 327. — Gouïfla, 386. — -Gourbel, 358. — -Ménaïel, 253. — Messaoudi, 357. — Mguitla, 285. — Mouiat Ferdjana, 285. — — el-Kaïd, 285. — -R’dir, 270. — Saâda, 284. — Sabath, 307. — Tamalous, 303. — Toum, 329. Borgo, 400. Bosporus, 557, xxxiv. Bostrenus, the, 469. Botte, La, 133. Bouak, Cape, 264. Bou-Arada, 360. — -Arkoub, 364. Boucaïd, 209. Bou-Chebka, 318. — -Chemma, 389. Boudaroua, 308. Boufarik, 216. Bou-Ficha, 365. Bougaroun (or Bougaroni), Cape, 131. Bougdoura, the, 253. Boughzoul, 215. Bougie, 262. —, Anse de, 262. —, Gulf of, 130, 252. Bou-Grara, Mer de, 392. Bougrina, 303. Bou-Guetoub, 201. — -Guezoul, 215. — Hamdan, 307. — —, the, 328. — -Hamoud, 244. — Hamra, Massif du, 309. — -Hanifia, 200. — -Haroun, 238. — -Henni, 206. Bouïra, 250. Bou-Kader, 208. — -Khalfa, 254. — -Ktoub, 201. Boulima, Cape, 130. Boulogne, 2. Bou-Medfa, 212. — -Nouara, 306. Bourdjine, 379. Bou er-Rébia, 358. Bourkika, 243. Bou-Saâda, 270. — -Sfer, 184. — -Tlélis, 185. Bouzaréah, 235. —, Mont, 235. Bove, Valle del, 159. Boz Dagh, 530. — Tepeh, 572. — — Burnu, 576. Branis, 278. Breña Baja, 48. Brenes, 68. Brindisi, 429. Brioni, Isole, 429. Brussa, 535. Bubana Valley, the, 101. Bubastis, 439. Bucca Vallis, 483. Bucina, 144. Budelli, Isola dei, 133. Budrum, 490. Buena Vista, 48. Bufadero, Valle del, 36. Bugeaud, 311. Bugio, 17. El-Bukeia, 470. Bûlâk ed-Dakrûr, 464. Bulgheria, Monte, 155. Bulgurlu, Great, 557. Bulgurlukiöi, 557. Bulla Regia, 326. Bullones, Sierra, 103. Bumeliâna, 411. Bu Regreg, 105. Burgas, 562. Búrmola, 400. Burnabad, Bay of, 533. Busa, Cape, 415. Busi, 429. Büyük Chamlija, 557. Büyükdereh, 559. Büyük Liman, 560. Byzantium, 541. Cacem, 15. Cadiz, 58. Cæsarea, 244. — Palaestina, 468. Cagliari, 144. Cagna, Montagne de, 133. =Cairo=, 439. Amru Mosque, 460. Aquarium, 457. Atabet el-Khadra, 446. Bâb el-Attaba, 454. — el-Azab, 453. — el-Futûh, 449. — el-Gedîd, 453. — el-Mitwelli, 450. — en-Nasr, 449. — el-Wastâni, 453. Babylon, 460. Bâb Zuweileh, 450. Barkûkîyeh, 448. Beit Gamâl ed-Dîn, 449. Bektashi, Convent of the, 454. Bookbinder’s House, 449. Bûlâk, 454. Cabs, 441. Cafés, 440. Caliphs, Tombs of the, 458. Citadel, 453. Consulates, 441. Dâr Beshtâk Palace, 448. Defterkhaneh, 453. Electric Railway, 441. Ezbekîyeh Garden, 445. Fatimite City, 446. Gâmia el-Ahmar, 448. — Amr ibn el-Âsî, 460. — el-Ashraf, 446. — el-Azhar, 447. — el-Hâkim, 449. — Sultân Hasan, 452. — Ibn Tulûn, 451. — Emir Kijmâs, 450. — el-Merdani, 450. — Mohammed Ali, 454. — — Bey Abû Dahab, 447. — el-Muaiyad, 450. — en-Nâsir, 453. — Rifaîyeh, 452. — Sâlih Telâyeh, 450. — es-Seiyideh Zeinab, 451. Gebel Giyûshi, 454. Gezîreh or Gezîret Bûlâk, 457. Gîza Garden, 457. Gîzeh, 461. Gouvernorat, 450. Heliopolis Oasis, 459. — -On, 459. History, 443. — of Art, 444. Hotels, 439. Ibrâhîm Pasha, Statue of, 446. Ismaîlîyeh, 454. Kalat el-Kabsh, 451. Karâfet Bâb el-Wezîr, 454. Kasr el-Aïni, 455. — ed-Dubara, 455. Khân el-Khalîli, 446. Koubbeh, Palais de, 459. Library, Khedivial, 451. Limûn Bridge, 445. Mameluke Tombs, 458. Market Quarter, 146. Mausoleum of El-Ghûri, 449. Medreseh el-Ghûri, 449. — Kâït Bey, 451. — Mohammed en-Nâsir, 448. — Serghatmash, 452. Memphis, 464. Metropolitan Railway, 441. Mîdân Abdîn, 446. — Ismaîlîyeh, 455. Ministries, 455. Mokattam Hills, 454. Mosques, see Gâmia. Muristân Kalâûn, 448. Museum, Arab, 450. —, Egyptian, 455. —, Geological, 455. Muski or Mouski, 446. New Heliopolis, 459. Nile Bridge, the Great, 457. Okella of El-Ghûri, 449. — of Kâït Bey, 448. Old Cairo, 460. Palace, Khedivial, 446. Place Bâb el-Khalk, 450. — de l’Opéra, 446. — Rumeileh, 452. Polytechnic School, 457. Post Office, 441. Railway Stations, 439. Restaurants, 440. Rôda, 461. Sakkâra, 465. Sebîl Abd er-Rahmân, 448. — of the Mother of Abbâs I., 452. Shâria el-Akkâdîn, 449. — Bûlâk, 454. — Clot Bey, 445. — el-Ghûrîyeh, 449. — el-Gohergîyeh, 448. — Kasr en-Nîl, 454. — Khalîg el-Masri, 451. — el-Marâsîn, 451. — el-Margush el-Barrâni, 448. — Mohammed Ali, 450. — en-Nahhâsîn, 448. Shoemakers’ Market, 450. Sudan Agency, 455. Sukkarîyeh, 449. Sûks, 446. 447. Telegraph Office, 441. Tewfîkîyeh, 454. Theatres, 442. Tramways, 440. Tribunaux Mixtes, 446. University, 455. Zoological Garden, 457. Cala, La, 147. Calabria, 155, xxxi. Calaburras, Punta de, 111. Cala Grande, 123. Calama, 308. Calatha, 132. Calceus Herculis, 276. Caldera, the, 48. — de Bandama, 46. Caleta, 56. Calheta, 26. Calle, La, 131. Camacha, 27. Camara de Lobos, 25. Camarat, Cape, 112. Campagna, Roman, 135. Campagne Bellevue (near Algiers), 231. Campanella, Punta di, 154. Campanillas, 88. Camp-des-Chênes, 215. — -du-Maréchal, 253. Campidano, 146. Campo (fort), 203. Campolato, Capo, 162. Campolide, 15. Cana, 469. Cañadas, the, 41. Canal d’Oro, 529. Canales, Punta, 5. Canario, Pico, 25. Canary Islands, 28. Canastel, Pointe, 184. Candelaria, 36. Candia, 415. — (town), 416. Canea, 415. Cane Mons, 533. Cani, I, 129. Caniçal, 21. Cannes, 112. Canrobert, 273. Cántales, Punta de los, 89. Cantin, Cape, 108. Capanne, Monte, 143. Capo, Lo (Capri), 154. Cappuccini, Monte dei, 428. Capraia (Capraria), 143. Caprera, 133. Capri, 146, 154. Capsa, 384. Caput Vada, 370. Carales, 144. Carambis Promontorium, 576. Caramu, 124. Caramuja, Serra de, 27. Caravansérail de l’Oued-Massin, 210. Carbon, Cape, 264. Carbonara, Capo, 144. Caria, 490. Carlentini, Pantano di, 159. Carmel, Mt., 468. Carnero, Punta, 6. Carpis, 364. Cartagena, 125. —, Cape, 351. Cártama, 88. Carteia, 54. Cartenna, 209. Carthage, 343. —, Cape, 351. Cartima, 88. Cartina, Monti, 159. Carvoeiro, Cabo, 4. Carycium Promontorium, 491. Casablanca, 107. Casae, 275. Casal Krendi, 403. — Paula, 402. Cascaes, Bay of, 4. Cassarin, Anse du, 309. Cassis, 132. Casteddu, 144. Castellammare, Fort (Palermo), 147. —, Gulf of, 152. — del Golfo, 153. Castellum du Nador, 242. — Peregrinorum, 468. — Tingitanum, 209. Castiglione, 238. —, Bay of, 237. —, Promontory of, 135. Catalfano, Monte, 147. Catalonia, 119. Catania, 160. —, Piana di, 159. Catona, 159. Caucasus Mts., 570. Cavallo, 267. —, Cape, 130. 267. —, Salto del, 183. Cavoli, Isola dei, 118. Caxine, Cape, 237. Cayster, the, 491. Cazza, 429. Cedadda, 388. Cedouikeche, 394. Cèdres, Pie des, 275. Cedro, Pico del, 48. Cefalonia, 500. Celadussae Insulæ, 429. Cembalo, 569. Cephalus (headland), 412. Cerceteus Mons, 491. Cercina, 405. Cercinitis, 405. Cerigo, 494. Cerro del Sol, 74. Ceuta, 103. Cevada, Cova da, 26. Chabet el-Akra, 268. — es-Sétif, 270. Chabia, 387. Chacals, Col des, 311. Chafarinas Islands, 124. Chahorra, 42. Chaïba, Forêt de, 213. Chalcedon, 536. Chal Dagh, 574. Chalet de Taourirt-Ighil, 261. Chalki, 535. Chalti Burnu, 575. Chambœuf, Col, 306. Chambré, Fort, 404. Chanak Kalesi, 534. Chandarli, Bay of, 533. Chanía, 415. Channel Islands, 2. Chão, 17. Chaouach, 328. Chaouat, 351. Chapeau de Gendarme, 315. Charki, 492. Charon, 208. Charrier, 201. Chasseloup-Laubat, 271. Châteaudun-du-Rhumel, 272. Château-Neuf (near Algiers), 234. Chatyr Dagh, 568. Chaves, Montaña de, 38. Chebba, 370. Chebka, 216. Chélif, the, 208. Chellata, Col de, 260. Chelonatas (headland), 502. Chemtou, 326. Chenacha Mts., 258. Chênes, Les, 327. Chengelkiöi, 558. Chenini (near Douirat), 392. — (near Gabes), 390. Chenoua, Baie du, 242. —, Cape, 242. —, Plage, 242. Chéraga, 234. Cherchell, 244. — Aqueduct, 243. Chersonese, Cape, 569. Chersonesos, 415. Chersonesus, Thracian, 534. — Cnidia, 490. — Promontorium, 118. — Rhodia, 490. — Taurica, 568. Cheshmeh, 493. Chetma, 284. Chiavari, 134. Chibukli, 559. Chidibbia, 354. Chiens, Col des, 279. Chiffa, 213. —, Gorges de la, 215. Chiffalo, 238. Chikly, Island of, 129. Chiliga Burnu, 562. Chioggia, 427. Chios, 492. Chiva, 575. Choba, 267. Chornoye More, 561. Chorro, 88. Chott ech-Chergui, 169. — Djerid, 387. — el-Fedjedj, 389. — Gharbi, 169. — el-Hodna, 270, 169. — Melrir, 284. — Merouan, 284. — Mzouri, 274. — Rharsa, 386. Choucht el-Ihoudi, 286. Christiana, 492. Chrysokeras, 555. Chrysorrhoas, the, 484. Chullu, 131. Chylimath, the, 208. Ciani, 162. Ciclopi, Scogli de’, 159. Cidrão, Pico, 25. Cillium, 371. Cilma, 371. Cimmerian Bosporus, 570. Cinque Terre, 134. Cinto, Monte, 143. Cintra, 15. Ciotat, La, 132. Circeo, Monte, 135. Ciris, Cape, 5. Cirta, 298. Cissi, 255. Cittanuova, 429. Città Vecchia, 403. Ciudadela, 127. Civitavecchia, 135. Clairefontaine, 314. Clupea, 405. Cnidos, 490. Cochinos, Los, 58. Coelesyria, 483. Colchis, 570. Col-des-Oliviers, 303. Coldirodi, 113. Collares, Caminho de, 16. Collo, 131. —, Sahel of, 169. Colonia Cillitana, 371. — Claudia Cæsarea, 244. Coloniæ Cirtenses, 298. Colonia Julia Augusta Felix Berytus, 482. — Julia Carthago, 345. — Marciana Trajana Thamugadi, 289. — Minervia Chullu, 131. — Veneria Rusicade, 304. — Zilis Constantia, 104. Colonna, Cape, 529. Colophon, 491. Columbretes Islands, 119. Comino, 397. —, Capo, 144. Conca d’Oro, 148. Concepción, La, 92. Condé-Smendou, 303. Conejera, 112. Conero, Monte, 428. Confital Bay, 43. Conil, 58. Constantiana, 563. Constantine, 297. —, Cape, 568. =Constantinople= 536. Aivan Seraï, 555. — — Kapu, 554. Ak Seraï, 553. Antiquities, Collection of, 546. Aqueduct of Valens, 552. Arcadius, Column of, 553. Artillery Barracks, 544. At Meïdan, 549. Augusteion, 549. Avret Bazar, 553. Aya Sophia Meïdan, 549. Bab i Humayún, 548. Baglar Bashi, 557. Balat, 555. Bazaar, Great, 551. Beshiktash, 544. Bezestán, 551. Bit Bazar Jaddesi, 551. Blachernæ Quarter, Wall of the, 554. Brachionon, 554. Bridges, 545, 552. British Embassy, 544. Bulgurlu, Great, 557. Bulgurlukiöi, 557. Burnt Column, 550. Büyük Chamlija, 557. Cabs, 538. Cafés, 537. Cemeteries: British, 557. Greek, 554. Moslem, 553, 557. Chamlija Spring, 557. Chemberli Tash, 550. Chinili Kiosque, 547. Colossus, 550. Consulates, 539. Defterdar Iskelesi, 555. Ecuries Impériales, 544. Edirneh Kapu, 553. Egri Kapu, 554. Emperor Claudius II., Column of, 546. English Churches, 539. Exchange, 543. Eyub, 555. Fountains, 543, 544, 548, 549. Galata, 542. — Quay, 543. — Seraï, 544. — Tower, 543. Golden Horn, 555. Grande Rue de Galata, 545. — — de Péra, 543. Harbours, 555. Harem-Iskelesi, 556. Haskiöi, 555. History, 541. Hotels, 537. Irene, Church of, 548. Janissaries, Barracks of the, 553. Janissaries’ Museum, 550. — Plane Tree, 548. Jubali Kapu, 555. Kalijeh Oglu, 555. Kalpakjilar Bashi Jaddesi, 551. Kasím Pasha, Bay of, 555. Kerkoporta, 554. Kiathaneh, 556. Land-Wall, 553. Leander’s Tower, 556. Local Steamers, 538. Lykos Valley, 553. Marcian’s Column, 553. Mermer Kuleh, 554. Military Hospital (Haidar Pasha), 557. — Museum, 548. Ministry of Justice, 548. — of Marine, 555. Mint, 546. Missir Charshi, 545. Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes, 543. — of the Howling-Dervishes, 557. Mosques: Ahmed I., 550. Arab, 543. Asab Kapu, 543. Aya Sophia, 548. Bayazid, 551. Büyük, 556. Eyub, 555. Fatih, 552. Hamidieh, 544. Jihangir, 544. Kahrieh, 553. Kilij Ali Pasha, 545. Küchük Aya Sophia, 550. Mahmud II., 544. Mehmedieh, 552. Mihrimah, 553. Mohammed II., 552. Nuri Osmanieh, 550. Rustem Pasha, 545. Selim I., 553. Shahzadeh, 552. Suleiman the Great, 552. Valideh, 544. Yeni Valideh, 545. — — (Scutari), 556. Museum, New, 546. Nuri Osmanieh Kapu, 551. Obelisk of Theodosius I., 549. Oriental Art Museum, 517. Orta Kapu, 548. Ortakjilar, 554. Ousoun Tcharchi, 551. Palaces: Blachernæ, 554. Chiragan Seraï, 558. Dolma Bagcheh, 544, 558. Podestà, 543. Seraglio, 548. Pentapyrgion, 554. Pera, 543. Petits Champs, 544. Phanar, 555. Place Dolma Bagtché Déré, 544. — du Taxim, 545. — Emin Eunou, 545. Porta Aurea, 554. Post Offices, 538. Public Grounds, 544, 549. Restaurants, 537. Robert College, 558. Rue de Karakeuï, 543. — Divan Yolou, 550. St. George, Church of, 553. Salajak, 556. School of Art, 546. Scutari, 556. Sea Walls, 541, 554. Second-Hand Market, 551. Seraglio or Seraï, 546. Seraï Meïdán, 548. Seraskerat, 551. Serasker Kapu, 551. — Tower, 551. Sheikh ul-Islam, Residence of the, 552. Snake Column, 549. So-uk Cheshmeh Gate, 546. Stambul, 545. — Liman, 556. Sublime Porte, 546. Sweet Waters of Europe, 556. Taxim Park, 544. Tekfur Seraï, 554. Telegraph Offices, 538. Ters Haneh, 555. Theatre, 539. Top Haneh, 544. — Kapu, 554. — — Seraï, 546. Towers of Isaak Angelos and Anemas, 554. Tramways, 538. Tunnel Line, 538. Türbeh Kheireddin Barbarossa, 544. — of Mahmud II., 550. — of Roxolana, 552. — of Suleiman, 552. Üsküdar, 556. Valideh Han, 551. Yanik Kapu, 543. Yedi Kuleh, 554. Yemish Iskelesí, 555. Yeni Mahallah, 557. Yildiz Kiosque, 544. Yüksek Kaldirim, 543. Constantza, 563. Contraviesa, Sierra, 112. Cora, 282. Corbelin, Cape, 130. Corcyra, 497. Cordova, 68. Corfu, 496. Corinth, 502. —, Gulf of, 501. Corregos, Bocca dos, 26. Corse, Cape, 143. Corsica, 133. Corso-Tahtâni, 249. Cortadas Pass or Cortado, Bocca do, 27. Corunna, 3. Cos, 490. Cospicua, 400. Courbet, 253. Couronne, Cap, 119. Crampel, 186. Cretan Sea, 492, 416. Crete, 415. Crimea, 568, xxxiv. Croisette, Cap, 119. Cruz, Pico da, 26. —, Pico da Ponta da, 25. —, Ponta da, 21. — Alta, 16. — de Afur, 37. — el Carmen, 37. — de Taganana, 37. Cruzinhas Ridge, the, 27. Cuccio, Monte, 147. Cuesta, 36. Cueva de Menga, 72. Cuicul, 272. Cumæ, 137. Cumbre, the, 37. Cumbrecita, 48. Cumbre Nueva, 48. — Vieja, 48. Curra, Dique de la, 125. Curral, Gran or — das Freiras, 25. — dos Romeiros or Curralinho, 24. Cyanean Islands, 560. Cyclades, 492, xxxii. Cynossema, Cape, 490. Cyprus, 489. Cyrenaica, 413. Cyrene, 414. Dahar Cliffs, 405. Dahra, the, 208, 169. Dahshûr, 464. Dakla, the, 326. Damanhûr, 437. Damascus, 484. Damesme, 199. Damietta, 418 Damous el-Karita, 349. Damrémont, 303. Dar el-Aroussa, 279. Dar el-Beida, 107. Dar-Chabane, 365. Dardanelles (strait), 534, xxxiv. — (town), 534. Dardanos, 534. Darna, 259. Darnis (Darnae), 414. Dar el-Oued, 267. — -Raous, Plaine de, 279. Darro, the, 74. Daya Morselli, 185. Debabcha, 388. Debila, 285. Debrousseville, 200. Deggach, 388. Deir Abân, 470. Delimara Point, 411. Dellys, 254. —, Cape, 254. Delos, 417. Demîrdâsh, 459. Demonnesoi, the, 535. Depienne, 358. Derât, 469. Dermèche, 344. Derna, 414. Desaix, 242. Desertas, 17, 20. Devna Canal, 562. Dia, 416. Diakophto, 501. Diana Veteranorum, 275. Diaplo, 496. Dikili Cliffs, 560. Dikte, 492. Dimaski, 485. Dimishk, 484. Diospolis, 470. Divača, 427. Divo Cliff, 569. Djara, 390. Djebel-Abiod, 328. — -Djelloud, 358. — -Ouat, 358. Djedeïda, 329. Djehim, 387. Djelfa, 215. El-Djem, 379. Djemaâ, 285. Djemâa Ford, the, 257. — el-Ghazaouât, 198. Djemila, 272. Djemmal, 369. Djemmorah, 278. Djenien-bou-Resg, 203. Djerba, 393. Djerda, 131. Djeribia, 130. Djerid, the, 386. Djermân-Tahtàni, 203. Djezira el-Kebira, 352. Djidiouïa, 208. Djidjelli, 267. Djilma, 371. Djinet, Cape, 253. Djorf Bou-Grara, 392. Djurdjura, Canton du, 258. — Mts., 258, 169. Dniester Liman, 564. Dobruja, 562. Dodekanesos, 490. Dolma Bagcheh, 558. Domaine de l’Habra et de la Macta, 200. — de Oued-Melah, 389. Donusa, 417. Dor, 468. Doris, 490. Doro, Straits of, 529. Douaouda-les-Bains, 238. Douar ech-Chott, 344. Dougga, 355. Douirat, 392. Douro, the, 3. Draa, the, 93. Drago, Punta del, 33. Dragonera, 112. Drâht en-Nadour, 387. Drah Tozeur, 387. Drâ-Kalawi, 268. Dra el-Khemis, Col de, 250. — el-Mizan, 254. Drea, 314. Drepana, 153. Drépano, Cape, 416. Drepanon, 530. Drinaupa, 117. Droh, 284. Dukato, Kavo, 500. Dummar, 484. Dunes, Les, 237. Duperré, 210. Dutertre, 210. Duveyrier, 203. Duvivier, 308. Duzerville, 309. Dyo Adelphia, 530. Dyr el-Kef, 357. Eaux-Chaudes, Les, 201. Ebba-Ksour, 361. Edough, Mount, 128. 131. Eétioneia (peninsula), 495. Eghris, Plaine d’, 200. Ekron, 470. Elasa, 492. Elba, 143. Elbruz or Elburz, 570. Eleusis, 502. Eleutheros, the, 469. Elia, Monte, 155. Elvira, Sierra, 73. Embâbeh, 464. Emine, Cape, 562. Emirgian, 559. Empalme de Morón, 57. Emporia, the, 389. Encumeada Alta, 27. Enfida, the, 365. Enfidaville, 365. Ephesus, 491. Epipolæ, 165. Epomeo, Monte, 135. Equizetum, 270. Eregli, 535. Erekli, 576. — Burnu, 572. Eremonisia, 417. Erg Oriental, 285. Ericusa (Lipari Is.), 146. Erikusa (Othonian Is.), 496. Erythrae, 493. Erythrum, 414. Eryx, 153. Escalona, 42. Escombrera, 125. Eski Stambul, Cape, 533. El-Esnam, 251. Espichel, Cabo de, 5. Espigón Hill, the, 42. Esrah, Pointe, 131. Estreito, 26. Eubœa, 529. Euhesperidæ, 413. Eulmas, Plaine des, 272. Europa Pass, 55. — Point, 55. Euryelus, 166. Eyub, 555. Ezbet ez-Zeitûn, 459. Eze, 112. Fahass or El-Fahs, 99. El-Faïdja, 203. Faïdjet el-Betoum, 202. Fajãa dos Padres, 26. Falaises, Grandes, 267. —, Promenade des, 184. Falcon, Cape, 125. Falcone, Monte, 153. —, Punta del, 133. Fanaraki, 560. Fanar Burnu, 535. Faraglioni, the, 155. Farina, Cape, 129. Faro, 158. —, Capo del, 117. Fassa, Cape, 529. Favignana, 153. Fayal, 27. Fedalah, 107. Fedja Grandpré, 320. Fedj el-Makta, Col de, 312. — el-Tameur, 362. Feghiha castra tria, 204. Félix-Faure, 253. Fenaïa, Valley of the, 261. Fener Bagcheh, 535. Fenerkiöi, 560. Feno, Capo di, 133. Feodossiya, 570. Fer, Cap de, 131. — à Cheval, 184. Feriana, 371. Fermatou, 269. Ferme, La (near Orléansville), 209. — Demonchy, 239. — Dufourg, 279. — du Rocher-Plat, 239. — Seuillet, 238. — Tazout, 184. — Trémaux, 243. Fernana, 327. Fernandea, Isola, 154. Fernán Núñez, 72. Ferrat, Cape, 112. Ferrato, Capo, 144. Ferrau, Monte, 144. Ferro, Capo di, 133. Ferryville, 352. Fesdis, 275. Fetatcha, 278. Fetzara, Lac, 303. Ficheur, Pic, 254. Fidonisi, 564. Figalo, Cape, 125. Figuier, Plaine du, 185. Figuig, 204. Fil Burnu, 560. Filfola, 411. Filicuri, 146. Filliache, 283. Finale Marina, 113. Finisterre, Cape, 3. Fiolente, Cape, 569. Flavia Neapolis, 468. Fleurus, 199. Foja, 530. Follónica, 134. Fondouk Djedid, 364. — el-Kantara, 353. Fontaine-Chaude (near Batna), 274. — — (near Biskra), 283. — des Gazelles, 278. — -Fraîche, 260. Fora, Ilheo de, 20. Forja (island), 25. Formentera, 126. Formentor, Cape, 112. Formíche di Grosseto, 135. Foros, Church of, 569. Fortaleza, the, 42. Fortassa, 208. Fort-de-l’Eau, 248, 127. Forte Ihleo, 24. Fort Jemil, 418. — l’Empereur, 127. — -National, 257. — Sanjak Kalesi, 530. Fostât, 443. Fouka-Marine, 238. Foum Ksantina, 296. — Tizourit, 273. Fountains, Great and Little, 568. Fraile, Punta del, 6. Frailes, the, 112. Fratelli, the, 132. Frenda, 208. Fretum Gaditanum or Herculeum, 5. — Siculum, 155. Fuencaliente, 48. Fuente de Santa Catalina, 43. — Piedra, 72. Fumm es-Sahara, 276. Funchal, 21. Furado, Levada do, 27. —, Ponta do, 20. Gabes, 389. —, Gulf of, 381. Gabès-Port, 390. Gades, 58. Gádor, Sierra de, 112. Gaëta, Gulf of, 135. Gaffour, 360. Gafsa, 383. Gagry, 570. Gaïdaronisi (island in Gulf of Ægina), 529. — (island near Samos), 490. — (island near Tenedos), 533. Galata, Cape, 562. Galati, 158. Galera, La 162. Galeras, Castillo de las, 125. Galeres, the, 101. Galilee, 469. Galite, Ile de la, 132. Galland, Pic de, 258. Gallico, 159. Gallinaria, 113. Gallipoli, 535. Gallo, Cape (near Palermo), 152. —, Capo (near Brindisi), 429. Gambetta, 184. Gañanias, Montaña de las, 38. Ganzirri, Lago di, 158. Garaa Mabtouha, 351. Garaet Ichkeul or Achkel, 352. — el-Oglal, 385. — et-Tarf, 273. Garajão, Cabo do, 21. Garde, Cap de, 311. 128. Gardes, Ravin des, 275. Gargano, Monte, 428. Garitza, 498. Gasturi, 499. Gata, Cabo de, 112. —, Cape, 489. Gaucin, 56. Gaulos, 404. Gavdos, 418. Gazules, Sierra de los, 6. Gebel Turra, 464. Gedis Chai, the, 530. Gemlek, Gulf of, 535. Genil, 72, 74. Gennesaret, Lake of, 469. Genoa, 113. —, Gulf of, 113, 134. Genoese Castle (Bosporus), 560. Genovés, Puerto, 112. Geraneia, 494. Gergârish, 411. Gergis, 392. Gerizim, Mt., 468. Géryville, 201. Gezer, 470. Gezîreh or Gezîret Bûlâk, 457. — Tirsâ, 464. El-Gharbia, 104. Ghardaïa, 216. Ghardimaou, 325. Ghaudex, 404. Ghennouch, 389. Ghermes, 414. Gianitsades, 492. Giannutri, 135. Giant’s Mt., 559. Giardini-Taormina, 158. Giarre, 158. Gibralfaro, 89. Gibraltar, 52. —, Bay of, 6. —, Straits of, 5, xxix. Gightis, 392. Giglio, 135. Gihon, 480. Gioia, Bay of, 155. Gîr, Cape, 110. Girão, Cabo, 25. El-Gisr, 438. Giurdan Hill, 396. Gîzeh, 461. Glacières, Les, 215. Gobantes, 88. El-Goléa, 216. Goletta, 343. 129. Gomera, 28. 30. Goni Islands, 493. Gorgolho, 25. Gorgona, 143. Gornalunga, 159. Goshen, 438. Goulette, La, 343. — Neuve, La, 344. Gourara, Bassin du, 170. Govino, Bay of, 500. Gozo (Gavdos), 418. — (Malta), 403. 397. Göz Tepeh, 532. Grabusa, 415. Graïba, 383. =Granada=, 73. Alameda, 77. — del Darro, 78. Albaicín, the, 74, 79. Albaida, 78. Alcaicería, 76. ALHAMBRA, 79. Abencerrages, Hall of the, 84. Adarves, Jardin de los, 82. Alcazaba, 81. Alhambra Palace, 82. — Vase, 85. Alta Alhambra, 86. Ambassadors, Hall of the, 83. Aposentos de Carlos Quinto, 86. Baths, 85. Capilla, 85. Carmen de Arratía, 86. Casa Real, 82. Comares, Torre de, 83. Cuarto Dorado, 85. Ghafar, 82. Lions, Court of the, 84. Mexuar, 85. Mezquita Real, 86. Mirador de Daraxa, 85. Moorish Chapel, 86. Mosala, 85. Myrtle Court, 83. Palace of Charles V., 86. Park, 80. Patio de Daraxa, 86. — de la Alberca, 83. — de la Reja, 86. — del Mexuar, 85. — de los Arrayanes, 83. — de los Leones, 84. Peinador de la Reina, 86. Puerta de Hierro, 87. — de la Alcazaba, 81. — de las Granadas, 80. — del Carril, 81. — de los Siete Suelos, 87. — del Vino, 81. — Judiciaria, 81. Rauda, 85. Sala de la Barca, 83. — de la Justicia, 84. — de las Camas, 86. — de las Dos Hermanas, 85. — de los Ajimeces, 85. — de los Embajadores, 83. — de los Mocárabes, 84. — de los Reyes, 84. — del Tribunal, 84. Santa Maria, Church of, 86. Torre de la Cautiva, 87. — del Agua, 87. — de las Damas, 86. — de las Infantas, 87. — de la Vela, 82. — del Homenaje, 81. — de los Picos, 87. — del Peinador, 86. — Quebrada, 81. Torres Bermejas, 80. Tortosa, House of, 81. Two Sisters, Hall of the, 85. Viaduct, 85. Zaguán, 85. Assabica, Monte de la, 79. Audiencia, 78. Ayuntamiento, 76. Bañuelo, 78. Cabs, 73. Cafés, 73. Calle de los Reyes Católicos, 75. Camino del Sacro Monte, 78. Capilla Real, 76. Carrera del Darro, 78. — del Genil, 77. Casa de Castril, 78. — del Cabildo Antigua, 77. — del Carbón, 76. — del Chapiz, 78. — de los Tiros, 77. Castle Wall, 79. Cerro del Sol, 74. Churches: Cathedral, 76. Sagrario, 77. San Juan de los Reyes, 79. — Nicolás, 79. — Pedro y San Pablo, 78. Santa Ana, 78. Santo Domingo, 77. Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, 77. Cuesta del Chapiz, 78. — del Rey Chico, 78. Cuevas, 78. Generalife, 87. Gran Via de Colon, 75. Hotels, 73. Isabella the Catholic, Statue of, 77. Lonja, 77. Mauror, Monte, 80. Miradores, 87. Paseo del Salón, 77. — del Triunfo, 75. Patio de los Cipreses, 87. Placeta de la Lonja, 77. — de las Pasiegas, 76. Plaza de Bibarrambla, 76. — Nueva, 78. Post Office, 73. Puerta de Elvira, 75. — de los Estandartes, 79. — Monáita, 79. Sacro Monte, 78. Sagrario, 77. San Miguel el Alto, 79. Santa Isabel la Real, Nunnery of, 79. Silla del Moro, 88. Tramways, 73. Gran Canaria or Grand Canary, 43. Grand-Cavallo, Ile du, 131. Grande-Porte, 270. Grandes Falaises, 267. Grand Rocher, 237. Granikos, the, 535. Granítola, Punta di, 154. Gran Sasso d’Italia, 428. Greco, Capo, 489. Grieta, Roques de la, 42. Grifone, Monte, 147. Grignano, 427. Grombalia, 364. Grosa, Punta, 112. Grossa Island, 429. Guadaira, 57. Guadajoz, 68. —, the, 72. Guadalete, 59. Guadalevin, 56. Guadalhorce, 72, 88. Guadalmedina, 89. Guadalquivir, 50, 61, xxx. Guadarranque, 56. Guadiana Menor, 50. Guadiaro, the, 56. Guajara Hill, the, 42. — Pass, 42. Guallala, 394. Guamaza, 47. Guanarteme, Istmo de, 43. Guancha, 43. —, Pinal de la, 42. Guardia, Cap, 129. —, Punta della, 133. — Vecchia, 133. Guebba, 388. Gué-de-Constantine, 217. — du Nador, 243. Guelma, 308. Guelt es-Stel, 215. Guerdjoum, 200. Guergour, Massif de, 269. Guerra, Valle de, 38. El-Guerrah, 272. Guerrara, 216. El-Guettar, 385. Güimar, 36. —, Garganta de, 40. Guiniguada, Barranco de, 44. Gümüshkhaneh, 574. Gurena, 414. Gursuff, 570. Guyotville, 237. Güzel Hissar, 558. Habel, El-, 284. Habibas, Isles, 125. Habra, the, 200. Hacho, Sierra del, 88. Hadege, 391. El-Hadet, 483. Hadid, Cape, 109. Hadjar-Roum, 186. Hadjeb el-Aïoun, 371. Hadrumetum, 367. Haffet el-Beida, 104. El-Haffey, 385. Hagiar Kim, 403. Hagi Deka, 499. Hagios Dimitrios Tepeh, 534. — Elias (Chios), 529. — — (Eubœa), 529. — Georgios, 494. — — Islands, 533. — Joannes, 530. — Theódoros, 499. Hagiostrati, 536. Haha, 110. Haidar Pasha, 536. Haidra, 362. Haifa, 468. Halikarnassus, 490. Halonnesos, 536. Hal Saflieni, 402. Halys, the, 575. El-Hamel, 271. El-Hamma (near Gabes), 388. Hamma, Le, 303. Hammada Kessera, 360. El-Hamma du Djérid (near Tozeur), 387. Hammam, 271. — Bou-Hadjar, 184. — Bou-Hanifia, 200. — -Darradji, 326. Hammamet, 364. Hammam-Foukâni, 205. — -Guergour, 269. El-Hammâmin, 205. Hammam-Lif, 363. — -Melouan, 248. — -Meskoutine, 307. — Ouled-Khaled, 201. — Rhira, 212. — es-Salahin, 283. — Sidi-Cheikh, 198. — — el-Hadj, 278. — — M’Cid, 302. — — Slîmân, 212. — Sousse, 366. — -Tahtâni, 205. Hamrun, 403. Hamza, Plaine du, 250. El-Hanaïat, Col d’, 262. Hara-Kebîra, 394. — -Serîra, 394. Harmyro Bay, 416. Hasi-ben-Hedjir, 203. Hassasna, the, 201. Haurân, 489. Haussonvillers, 253. Haut-Mornag-Crétéville, 358. El-Hawamdîyeh, 464. Hekatonesoi, 533. Helena, 529. Heliopolis Oasis, 459. — -On, 459. Hellespont, 534. Henchir Bou-Chateur, 353. — Bou-Garfa, 388. — Fradiz, 365. — -Kasbat, 359. — Maâtria, 355. — Mest, 357. — Sbia, 370. — Sidi Ali Bel-Kassem, 325. — Souatir, 372. Hennaya, 185. Heraclea Pontica, 576. Heracleum Promontorium, 575. Heraklea, 535. Herákleion, 416. Herbillon, 131. Hercules Grotto, 102. Hergla, 365. El-Heri, 329. Hermon, Mt., 489. Hermonassa, 574. Hermopolis Parva, 437. Hermos, the, 530. Hidalgo, Punta del, 37. Hielo, Cueva del, 42. Hiera, 153. Hieron (Bosporus), 560 —, Cape, 574. Hierosolyma, 472. Hillil, L’, 207. Hippo Diarrhytus, 353. Hippodrome, 273. Hippo Regius, 311, 309. Hiraklitsa, 535. Hodna, Monts du, 270. Homem em Pé, 27. Hondo, Barranco, 38. Honeïn, 125. Horca, Montaña de la, 38. Hormiga Grande, 112. Horrea Caelia, 365. Houmt-Souk, 393. Hoyo de Chorro, 88. H’sen, the, 205. Huelva, 5. Humboldt Corner, 38. Hunkiar Iskelesi, 559. Hussein-Dey, 233. Hydra, Cape, 530. — (island), 494. Hyères, Iles d’, 133, 112. Hymettos, Mt., 494. Iaci 158. Ich (oasis), 203. Icherridène, 258. Ichoukkân, 296. Icod, Corona de, 42. — Alto, 42. — de los Vinos, 43. Icosium 221. Ida Range (Crete), 416. — — (now Kas Dagh), 533. Idafe, the, 48. Ieros, Cape, 574. If, 119. Ighzer-Amokran, 251. Igilgili, 267. Iglesiente, 129. Igueste, 36. Ikaria, 492. Iki Kardash, 530. Ilanjik, 562. Iluro, 88. Imbros, 533. Imperatore, Punta, 118. Imros Kalesi, 560. Incoronata Island, 429. Ineboli, 576. Iniada, Cape, 562. Injeh Burun, 576. Inkermann, 208. Innaûen, 94. In Salah, 216. Insulæ Cuniculariae, 133. — Diomedeae, 428. — Dionysiades, 492. — Fortunatae, 28. Iol, 244. Iomnium, 256. Ionia, 491. Ionian Sea, 418, xxxi. Ionopolis, 576. Iós, 417. Iris, the, 575. Iroses, Pico dos, 21. Isabel Segunda, Isla, 124. Ischia, 118, 135. Iskanderîeh, 432. Isleta, the, 43. Ismaîlîya, 438. Ismid, Gulf of, 535. Isola Grande, 153. — Rossa Bay, 118. Isser, Ravine of the, 250. —, the (near Algiers), 253. —, the (near Oran), 185. Issers, Les, 253. Isserville, 253. Istankiöi, 490. Istria, 429. Ithaca, 500. Ivi, Cape, 118. Iviza, 112. 126. Izaña, Monte de, 36. Izmir, 531. Jaffa, 467. Jalta, 569. Jamur, 153. Jardim da Serra, 26. Jardins, Vallée des, 198. Jarros, Ile, 132. Jasonium Promontorium, 575. Jebel Abiod, 153. — Adrar Amellah, 268. — Afoerer, 267. — Ahmar, 353. — — Khaddou, 284. — Aïssa, 202. — Akhdar, 93. — el-Akhouat, 360. — Akouker, 258. — Alima, 386. — Amour, 170. — Anini, 269. — Antar, 202. — Arbalou, 262. — Assalah, 384. — Ayata, 362. — Azeb, 275. — Babor, 269. — Bani, 93. — el-Barûk, 483. — bel-Khifeh, 315. — Belloua, 254. — Beni Bou Youssef, 68. — — Felkaï, 268. — — Hassan, 111. — — Smir, 204. — — Snassen, 197. 125. — Ben-Younès, 384. — Biadha, 383. — Bir, 327. — Bireno, 320. — Borosse, 184. — Bou Arif, 275. — — el-Hanèche, 362. — — Hedma, 383. — — -Hellal, 388. — — Hini, 261. — — Kadra, 314. — — Kornin, 363. — — Leghfad, 203. — — Maad, 210. — — Merzoug, 275. — — -Ramli, 384. — — -Rebbah, 326. — — Rezel, 282. — — Roumane, 320. — — Sessou, 314. — — Yala, 304. — — -Zegza, 249. — Chambi, 371. 320. — Chaouach, 328. — Char, 362. — Charra, 328. — Chelia, 278. — Chenoua, 242. — Chettaba, 297. — ou Chiouen, 262. — Chouka, 186. — Debar, 307. — Demmer, 390. — Dersa, 103. — Dira, 250. 169. — Dissa, 388. — Djaffar, 359. — Djara, 203. — Djinet, 253. 130. — Djira, 206. — Doui, 209. — Doukkan, 315. — Dyr, 315. — el-Dzeroua, 314. — Edough, 309. — Essor, 276. — Fadloun, 405. — Faroua, 320. — Fedj el-Adoum, 357. — Filfila, 131. — Fillaoussen, 198. — Gaous, 276. — Garci, 365. — Gharribou, 278. — Gontas, 211. — Gorra, 355. — Gouari, 131. — Gouraya, 265. — Gourin, 270. — Groun, 278. — Grouz, 204. — Gueldaman, 251. — Hadid, 131. — el-Hadid, 109. — Hadjar, 208. — Hadjra Touïla, 210. — el-Haïmer, 203. — Haïzer (Haïzeur), 254. — Haouidja, 278. — el-Herrech, 326. — Hout es-Srir, 314. — Ichkeul, 352. — Imoulentaour, 266. — Iril ou Moula, 258. — Jellabia, 385. — Kahar, 184. — Kalaât es-Senam, 362. — Kâsyûn, 489. — Kebdana, 124. — Kebouch, 357. — Kechbata, 354. — Keneiseh, 483. — Kerkour, 198. — Khaoui, 351. — Kherouf, 328. — Klab, 359. — Korbous, 364. — Kouif, 318. — Kouriet, 258. — Kraoui, 351. — Kréréga, 314. — Kristel, 184. — Kroubset, 278. — Kteuf (Constantine), 270. — — (near El-Kantara), 278. — Lakhdar, 93. — Lorbeus, 360. — Mâadid, 270. — Maaziz, 198. — Mahabouba, 312. — Mahouna, 308. — el-Maïz, 204. — Maïza, 360. — Majora, 383. — Maknassi, 383. — el-Malha, 202. — Mâni, 489. — Maouya, Gorah, 283. — Mâr Elyâs, 468. — Masser, 198. — Massouge, 360. — Matrona, 269. — Mazella, 306. — el-Meddad, 210. — Mefroûch, 194. — Megriss, 269. — Mekter, 202. — el-Melah, 278. — Melias, 204. — Menzel Roul, 353. — Mes Ritan, 267. — Mestoula, 314. — Metlaoui, 386. — Metlili, 277. — Metloug, 314. — Mezi, 203. — Mezritan, 267. — Mezzouna, 383. — el-Mlaga, 282. — Morghad, 202. — Mouzaïa, 213. — Mrilah, 371. — Mulaï Abd es-Slam, 102. — Murjajo, 182. — Mûsa, 103. — Mzita, 270. — Mzouzia, 314. — Nador, 308. — Nadour (Djerid), 388. — — (near Porto-Farina), 35. — Nif-Ensser, 274. — Orbata, 385. — Orouze, 199. — Osmor, 318. — Ouamri, 254. — Ouenza, 314. — Oum el-Alleg, 383. — Oust, 358. — Rebia, 326. — Rekaba, 320. — Ressas, 358. — er-Rihân, 469. — Rosfa, 385. — Roumana, 389. — Saghro, 93. — Sannîn, 483. — Santon, 183. — Sarro, 93. — Sarsar, 105. — Sbeïtla, 371. — Sebaa-Chioukh, 185. — Sedderts, 267. — Seldja, 386. — Selloum, 278. — Semmama, 371. — Serd, 320. — Sicioun, 199. — Sidi Abdalla, Ben-Cheid, 60. — — Abd el-Kâder, 214. — — R’gheïss, 273. — — Youssef, 204. — Smerten, 390. — Soubouyou, 306. — Souinia, 391. — Stah, 386. — Tababor, 128. — Tadjera, 391. — Tafrent, 273. — Taguertine, 289. — Takoucht, 268. — Takroun, 365. — Tamednaïa, 203. — Taounnart, 267. — Tarfai, 386. — Tarfaoui, 388. — Taya, 307. — Tebaga, 388. 320. — Tegrimont or Tegrimoun, 250. — Temoulga, 209. — Tenoukla, 318. — Terni, 187. — Tessala, 186. — Tifech, 313. — Tizibert, 259. — Tiziren, 94. — et-Tôr (Mt. Gerizim), 468. — — (Mt. Tabor), 469. — Touati, 391. — Toudja, 262. — Touggour, 275. — Touila, 371. — Toukra, 261. — Tounga, 354. — Tshemmish, 105. — et-Tûr, 479. — Zaccar Chergui, 212. — — Gharbi, 212. — Zafran, 360. — Zaghouan, 359. 320. — Zaïana, 364. — Zebissa, 320. — Zenâga, 205. — Zeriba, 405. — Zinat, 102. — Zraïb, 261. — Zrissa, 362. Jebilet, 93. El-Jedida, 108. Jefâra, Steppe, 410. Jefna, 352. Jemmapes, 303. Jerez de la, Frontera, 59. Jerf el-Asfâr, 108. =Jerusalem=, 470. Absalom, Tomb of, 480. Ascension, Chapel of the, 479. Augusta, Victoria, Institute, 479. Bâb el-Kattânîn, 476. Barracks, 475. Bazaar, New, 474. —, Old, 475. Bethlehem, 480. Birket es-Sultân, 480. Churches: Ascension (Russian), 479. Credo, 479. Holy Sepulchre, 474. Mary Magdalen, 480. Paternoster, 479. Redeemer, 475. St. Anne, 476. — Mary, 480. — — (Bethlehem), 481. Weihnachtskirche, 481. Consulates, 471. David Street, 473. Dome of the Chain, 478. — of the Rock, 477. Gates, 473. 475. Gethsemane, Garden of, 480. Golden Gate, 478. Haram esh-Sherîf, 476. Hâret en-Nâsara, 474. Hinnom, Valley of, 480. History, 472. Hospices, 470. Hotels, 470. Jaffa Suburb, 473. Jebel Abû Tôr, 480. — et-Tûr, 479. Job’s Well, 480. Kafr et-Tûr, 479. El-Kala, 473. El-Kâs, 478. Kidron, Valley of the, 480. Kings, Tombs of the, 479. Kubbet es-Sakhra, 477. — es-Silseleh, 478. Magi, Well of the, 480. Mesjid el-Aksâ, 478. Monasteries: Abyssinian, 475. Coptic, 475. Dormitio Sanctae Mariae, 473. Great Greek, 474. Mâr Elyâs, 480. St. Caralombos, 475. — John, 474. — Stephen, 479. Mûristân, 475. En-Nebi Dâûd, 473. Olives, Mount of, 479. Patriarch’s Bath, 474. — Pool, 474. Post Offices, 471. Rachel’s Tomb, 480. Russian Buildings, 473. St. James’s Cavern, 480. — Mary’s Fountain, 480. — Stephen’s Gate, 475. Es-Salâhîyeh, 476. Sebîl of Kâït Bey, 477. Siloah, 480. Siloam, Pool of, 480. Solomon’s Stables, 478. Tarîk Bâb es-Silseleh, 476. Temple Colony, German, 473. Town Wall, 473. Via Dolorosa, 475. Wailing Place of the Jews, 479. Zacharias, Pyramid of, 480. Zion Suburb, 473. Jevislik, 574. Jews’ River, 100. Jimena, 56. Joppa, 467. Juby, Cape, 104. Judæa, 466. Juif, Col du, 197. Juive, Col de la, 204. Julber (château), 569. Jurjura Mts., 258. 169. Kabakos Bay (Bosporus), 560. Kabakum Bay (Strait of Mytilini), 533. Kabylia, Great, 252. —, Little, 266. Kadikiöi, 536. Kafr ed-Dâwâr, 437. — et-Tûr, 479. — ez Zaiyât, 438. Kaïkos, 533. Kairwan, 372. El-Kaisarîyeh, 468. Kakûn, 468. Kalâa, 207. El-Kalaa, Anse,, 267. El-Kalâa, Cape, 131. Kalâa des Beni-Hammad, 270. Kalaâ-Djerda, 362. — -Kebira, 366. — -Matmata, 391. — -Srira, 366. Kalaât es-Senam, 362. Kalabât el-Mezzeh, 484. Kalamas, the, 500. Kalchedon, 536. Kaleh Sultanieh, 534. Kaliakra, Cape, 562. Kallipolis, 535. Kalmek Point, 572. Kalogeros Cliffs, 529. Kalógria, Cape, 500. Kalolimni, 535. Kalpe, 54. Kalydnae, 533. Kalymnos, 490. Kalyûb, 438. Kamára, 500. Kamart, 351. — Cape, 351. Kandelëusa, 492. Kandili, 558. Kanlija, 559. El-Kantara (Algeria), 276. — (Djerba), 394. — (Egypt), 438. —, Gorge of, 278. El-Kantour, Hills of, 303. Kapu Dagh, 535. Kara Burun (hill), 535. — — (peninsula), 530. — Dagh, 533. — Denis, 561. — — Boghaz, 557. Karahissar, 574. Karakova Dereh, 534. Karibjeh Kalesí, 560. Karouba, 207. Karpathos, 491. Kartha, 298. Kasos, 491. —, Strait of, 491. Kasr Menara, the, 365. — esh-Shama, 460. — ez-Zit, 364. Kassar-Saïd, 342. Kasserine, 371. Kastamuni, 576. Kasteloryzo, 490. Kastrades, 498. Kastro, 493. Katakolo, 502. Katana, 160. Kaystros, the, 491. Kaz Dagh, 533. K’Bouch, 261. Kea (Keos), 529. Kebilli, 388. Kechili Bay, 560. Kef, Le, 360. — Bou Djabeur, 314. — Chrea, 215. — ed-Darsa, 278. — Demeur, 390. — ed-Door, 284. — Mahmel, 278. — Mechtob, 131. — Raghma, 314. — Randek, 268. — Sachi, 211. — Seba, 311. — Sidi Abdallah, 327. — Siga, 211. — Toudjane, 391. Kelibia, 405. Kelmitou, the, 208. Kephallēnia, 500. Kerasun or Kerasund (Kerasūs), 574. Kerembe, Cape, 576. Kerkenna Islands, 405. Kerki, Mt., 491. Kérkyra, 497. Kerpe, Cape, 576. —, Island of, 491. Kerrata, 268. Kertch, Straits of, 570. Ketena, 391. Khamissa or Khemissa, 313. Khanguet, 364. — Fras, 361. — el-Hadjadj, 358. — Kef Tout, 328. Khenchela, 273. El-Kheraïb, 344. Kherba, 209. Khéreddine, 344. Kherē-ohē, 443. Khledia, 358. Khoms, 412. Khremensa, 362. Khroub, Le, 273. Kibris, 489. Kikeneïs, Cape, 569. Kilallin, 103. Kilid Bahr, 534. Kimolos, 492. Kinlu Burun, 530. Kinyps, the, 412. Kiösteni, 530. Kirba, Col de, 209. Kiresün, 574. Kiretsh Burnu, 559. Kirid, 415. Kirpe, Cape, 576. — Island, 576. Kisamo Bay, 415. Kizil Adalar, 535. — Irmak, 575. Klazomenæ, 530. Kléber, 199. Klókova, 500. Knossos, 416. Koja Chai, 534. Kolat Dagh, 571. Koléa, 238. Koraca, Cape, 491. Korbous, 364. Kordelio, 533. Koronē, Bay of, 493. Kouba, 233. Koubbeh, Palais de, 459. Koudiat el-Goulal, Col de, 379. — Oum el-Arouah, 387. Kralfallah, 201. Kram, Le, 344. Kreider, Le, 201. Krennah, 414. Kressida, the, 499. Krib, Le, 360. Krio, Cape, 415, 490. Kristel, 184. Kriz, 388. Kroumirie, the, 326. Kroussiah-Sahali, 370. Ksantina, 297. El-Ksar, 385. Ksar Hellal, 360. — Métameur, 391. — es-Serîr, 123. — Tifech, 313. El-Kseur, 261. — -Amizour, 252. Ksiba, 378. Ksour, 361. —, Montagnes des (Algeria), 202. 170. —, Monts des (Tunisia), 390. 320. — -Essaf, 370. Kubba Lalla-Setti, 187. — Sidi-Abdallah, 198. — — -Abd er-Rehou, 357. — — -Brahim, 198. — — -Salah, 380. — — -Tahar, 198. Küchük Chekmekjeh, 535. Kum Kaleh, 534. Kuratan, Cape, 562. Kuriat Islands, 405. Kuru Burnu, 562. — Cheshmeh, 558. El-Kus, 104. Kuskunjuk, 558. Küstenjeh, 563. Kyamon, 416. Kyane, the, 162. Kydonia (Aivaly), 533. — (Canea), 415. Kyme, 137. Kyparissia, Gulf of, 502. Kypros, 489. Kythera, 494. Kythnos, 492. Lacs, Les, 274. Lac Souterrain (near Hammam Meskoutine), 307. Lacus Hipponensis, 352. — Regius, 274. Ladesta, 429. Læstrygonian Fields, 159. Laghouat, 215. Lagos, 5. Lagosta, 429. Laguna, 36. — Salada, 72. Lagussae, 533. Laigueglia, 113. Laktoube, Forêt de, 207. Lalia, 283. Lalla Khedidja, 259. — -Marnia, 197. Lambdia, 215. Lambèse (Lambessa), 286. Lambiridi, 276. Lamiggiga, 275. Lamoricière, 186. Lamoune, Fort, 183. Lampsaki (Lampsakos), 534. Lamta, 369. Lamur, 181. Lansheron, 568. Larash, 104. Lares, 360. Larnaka, 489. Lartos, Cape, 490. Lasithi Mts., 492. Laspi, Bay of, 569. Laturus Sinus, 199. Lauriers-Roses, Les, 186. Lavarande, 210. Laverdure, 312. Laverie, La, 358. Lavezzi, 133. Lazistan Mts., 571. Lebanon, 483, xxxiv. Lebedus, 491. Lebida (Lebda), 412. Leça da Palmeira, 3. Lecourbe, 270. Lectum Promontorium, 533. Leghorn, 143. Leïla, 385. Leixões, 3. Lemeny, 569. Lemnos, 533. Lempta, 369. Lentini, 159. Leona, Cape, 123. Leontinoi, 159. Lepsia, 490. Leptis Magna, 412. — Minor, 369. Lérins, Iles de, 112. Leros, 490. Lesbos, 533. Leucadian Rock, 500. Leuka Orē, 415. Levada Velha (Madeira), 26. Levant, Ile du, 112. Levante, Riviera di, 134. Lévanzo, 153. Lévitha, 492. Levkás, 500. Lévkimo, Cape, 500. Libar, Sierra de, 56. Libyan Desert, 461. Licosa, Punta, 155. Lido, 424. Ligata, 412. Ligula, the, 344. Ligurian Alps, 112. — Sea, 112. Likumpt, 93. Lilibeo, Capo, 153. Lilybaeum, 153. Limagues, 388. Limassol, 489. Limbara, Monti di, 133. Limnos, 533. Linaro, Cape, 135. Lindless, Cape, 125. Lindos, 490. Linea de la Concepción, 56. Linosa, 396. Lions, Gulf of, 119. —, Montagne des, 184. Lipari, 155. Lipari Islands, 155, 146. Lipso, 490. Lipsokutáli, 494. Lisbóa, 9. =Lisbon=, 6. Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara, 11. Aqueducto das Aguas Livres, 12. Arsenal do Exército, 14. Artillery Museum, 14. Avenida da Liberdade, 11. Banks, 8. Belem, 14. —, Tower of, 14. Botanic Garden, 11. Buenos Ayres, 12. Bull Ring, 8. Cable Tramways, 7. Cabs, 7. Caes das Columnas, 10. Cafés-Restaurants, 7. Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 12. Casa dos Bicos, 13. — Pia, 14. Castello de São Jorge, 13. Central Railway Station, 6, 11. Churches: Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús, 12. Carmo, Igreja do, 11. Estrella, 12. N.S. da Conceição Velha, 13. — da Graça, 13. — da Misericordia, 13. — do Monte, 13. Santa Maria, 14. São Roque, 11. — Vicente de Fóra, 13. Sé Patriarchal, 13. Cidade Baixa, 10. Collina do Castello, 9. Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem, 14. English Cemetery, 12. Estrada da Circumvallação, 9. Hotels, 6. Jardim da Estrella, 12. Junqueira, 14. Largo do Rato, 12. Lifts, 7. Lisboa Occidental, 11. — Oriental, 12. Market, 11. Mercado, 14. Meteorological Station, 11. Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal, 11. Museum, Natural History, 11. Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes, 14. — — dos Coches, 14. Observatory, 11. Paço de Belem, 14. Palacio das Côrtes, 12. Pantheon Real, 13. Pelourinho, 14. Polytechnic School, 11. Post Office, 7. Praça de Dom Pedro IV., 10. — de Luis de Camões, 12. — de Vasco da Gama, 14. — do Commercio, 10. — do Rio de Janeiro, 11. Rocío, 11. Rua da Escola Polytechnica, 11. — Garrett, 12. São Vicente de Fóra, Monastery of, 13. Statues: Joseph, I. 10. Pedro IV., 11. Steamers, 8. Tagus, Bay of the, 9. Theatres, 8. Tramways, 7. Lissa, 429. Littré, 210. Livádia, 570. Livorno, 142. Livramento, 25. Lix, the, 104. Lixus, 105. Llanos, Los, 48. Loano, 113. Lod, 470. Loja, 72. Loma Pelada, Punta de, 112. Lomo de Vega, 42. — Tiezo, 41. Longo Sardo, Bay of, 133. Lorbeus, 360. Lotophagi, Island of the, 393. Lourmel, 185. El-Lubban, 468. Ludd, 470. Lugar de Baixo, 26. Lukkus, the, 104. Lunga Island, 429. Lussin, 429. Lustdorf, 568. Lydda, 470. Lydia, 490. Lykaeon, the, 502. Lytri, 493. Maâfa, 276. — Valley, 277. Maâjen Bel-Abbès, 372. Maalif Plain, the, 201. Maatkas, 254. Machico, 21. Mac-Mahon, 276. Macta, La, 200. Madaraes Mts., 415. Madaura (Madauros), 314. Maddalena, 133. —, Penisola della, 162. Madeira, 17. Madera, Barranco de la, 47. El-Mader-Pasteur, 275. Madoníe Mts., 146. Magdalena (Madeira), 26. Maggiore, Monte, 429. Magnisi, Penisola, 159. Maharátsh, 570. Maharès, 383. Mahboubine, 394. Mahdia, 369. Mahmûdîyeh Canal, 433. 437. Mahon, 127. Maiella, 428. Maillot, 251. Maire, Ile, 132. Maison-Blanche, 249. — Cantonnière, 259. — -Carrée, 247. El-Maïz, 205. Majar Bay, 560. Majorca, 112. Majouba, 362. Makáron Nésoi, 28. Maknassi, 383. Makronisi (Gulf of Smyrna), 530. — (Straits of Kea), 529. Maktar, 360. Maktarium, 360. Malabata, Cape, 57. Málaga, 88. —, Bahia de, 89. —, Vega or Hoya de, 89. Malakoff, 208. Mal di Ventre, Isola di, 129. Maléa, Cape (Greece), 494. —, Cape (Mytilini), 533. Malga, La, 348. Mallorca, 112. Malta, 397. xxx. Maltepe, Cape, 533. Malucha, the, 124. Mamaia, 563. Mamora Forest, 105. El-Mamoura, 365. Manchas, Las, 48. Mandraki, 490. Manfredonia, Bay of, 428. Mangalia, 563. Mani (peninsula), 493. Manissa Dagh, 530. Manouba, La, 342. Manoubia Hill, 339. Mansoura, 270. —, Plateau de, 274. Mansouria, Pointe, 267. Mansura, Ruins of, 193. Marabout Island, 418. —, Plateau du, 183. — Sidi-Ameur, 243. Marathonisi, Bay of, 494. Marathusa Islands, 530. Marbot, 210. Marchena, 57. Mare Creticum, 492. Maremma di Roma, 135. — Toscana, 135. Marengo, 243. Mareotis, Lake, 432. Mareth, 391. Margueritte, 212. Marhoum, 201. Maritime Alps, 112. Marittimo, 153. Markouna, 289. Marmara, 535. Marmarica, the, 415. Marmora (island), 535. —, Sea of, 535. xxxiv. Marouania, 303. Marroquí, Punta, 6. Marsa, La, 351. — el-Adjim, 393. — el-Hilil, 414. — el-Kantara, 392. Marsála, 153. Marsa Scala, 411. — Scirocco, 411. — Susa, 414. — Ugra, 412. Marseilles, 119. Martianez, Barranco de, 39. Martin, Cape, 113. Martin, River, 102. Mascara, 200. Masclianae, 371. Mascula, 273. Másri, 411. Massandra, 570. Massif Kabyle, 257. Matanza, 38. Matapán, Cape, 493. Matarîyeh, 459. Matavun, 427. Il-Maten, 252. Mateur, 351. Mathraki, 496. Matifou, 248. —, Cape, 248. 127. Matmata-Kebira, 391. Matshka, the, 572. Mattosinhos, 3. Mauretania Sitifensis, 271. Maxula-Rades, 363. Mazafran, 238. Mazagan, 108. Mazagran, 207. Mazalquivir, 183. Mazara, 153. Mazari, Cabo, 123. Mazo, 48. Mazouna, 208. Mazzara del Vallo, 153. M’chounech, 284. Mdaourouch, 314. Méchéra-Sfa-Prévost-Paradol, 208. Méchéria, 202. Mechta-Châteaudun, 272. Médéa, 215. Medeïna, 362. Médenine, 391. Medina, 278. Medinet el-Khedima, 371. — el-Merj, 414. Medjana, 270. Medjerda, the, 320, 129, 313. Medjez-Amar, 308. — el-Bab, 328. — -Sfa, 312. Medracen, 274. Megalókastron, 416. Megalonisi (Ægean Sea), 533. Megalo Nisi (Black Sea), 562. Megara, 502. —, Bay of, 159. Mégara Iblea, 159. Megiste, 490. Mégrine, 363. Mehdia, 369. Mehdiya or Mehedia, 105. Mekalia, 207. Mékalis, 202. Mékla, 261. El-Meks, 418. Mélaha, 411. Mélassine, 339. Mele, Cape, 113. Mélika, 216. Melila, Monte, 124. Melilla, 124. Melita, 398. El-Mellaha, 199. Mellieha Bay, 397. Melôria, 142. Melos, 492. Melrir, Bassin du, 170. Membressa, 328. Memphis, 464. Menara, 391. Mendere Chai, 534. Menelaus Island, 415. Ménerville, 250. Menguellet, 257. Meninx, 393. — (ruins), 394. Menshia, Oasis of, 410. Mentone, 113. Menzaleh, Lake, 418. Menzel, 390. — Bou-Zelfa, 364. — Dar el-Bouar, 366. — Djemil, 354. Mercedes, Las, 37. Merdja, Le, 208. Merj, 414. Merja Râs ed-Dôra, 105. — ez-Zerga, 105. Mers el-Kébir, 183. Mesco, Punta del, 134. Mesembriya, 562. Meskiana, 273. Mesloug, 271. Mesolóngion, 500. Messadine, 378. Messina, 156. —, Straits of, 155. Mesurata, 412. Metade, Ribeiro da, 27. Métameur, 391. El-Methouia, 389. Metlaoui, 386. Metlineh, 132. Mezar Burnu, 559. Mezzouna, 383. Mhiula, 108. Michelet, 258. Midoune, 394. Midüllü, 533. Mijas, Sierra de, 88. Mila, 267. Miláss, 569. Miletus, 491. Mileum, 268. El-Milia, 267. Miliana, 211. — -Margueritte, 211. Millésimo, 308. Milonia, Cape, 125. Milos, 492. Mimas, 530. Mina, the, 207. —, La, 37. —, Plaine do la, 207. Minho, the, 3. Minorca, 127. Mirabeau, 253. Miramar, 427. Mir el-Jebel, 203. Miseno, Cape, 135. Misida, 403. Misolonghi, 500. Misrâta, 412. Misserghin, 185. Mitidja, the, 169, 213, 243, etc. Mit-Rahîneh, 464. Mitylene, 533. Mizrana, Forêt de, 255. Mnaidra, 403. Mnshîa, the, 410. Moda, Bay of, 535. Modzbah, 201. Mogador (Mogator), 109. Moghrane, 359. Moghrar, Gorges de, 203. — -Foukâni, 203. — -Tahtâni, 203. Mogod Mts., 132. Mohamédia, La, 359. Moines, Les (Monaci), 133. Mokattam Hills, 454. Moknine, 369. Mola, 158. — di Bari, 428. Molentargius, Stagno di, 144. Molini, Capo, 160. Monaco, 112. Monastère St. Joseph, 247. Monastir, 405. Monchique, Serra de, 5. Mondello, Bay of, 152. Mondovi, 308. Mongó, 112. Monopoli, 428. Monreale (Palermo), 152. Mons Aurasius, 278. Monserrate, Quinta de, 16. Mons Ferratus, 258. — Neptuni, 155. — Ziquensis, 359. Montagnac, 185. Montaigne, 267. Montalto, 155. Montaña Bianca, 41. Monte (Gran Canaria), 46. — (Madeira), 24. — Carlo, 113. Montecristo, 144. Montenotte, 209. Montesquieu, 314. Montilla, 72. Morbêya, 108. Mornag, Plaine du, 358. Morocco, 93. Morro de la Vieja, Punta, 43. Morsott, 314. Mórtola, Cape, 118. Moshonisia Islands, 533. Mostaganem, 207. Moudjàhdine, Col des, 204. Mouley-Ismael, Forêt de, 206. Moulinville, 380. Mouzaïa-les-Mines, 215. Mouzaïaville, 213. M’raïer, 284. Mraïssa, 364. M’saken, 378. Mshátka, 569. Msid Echta, 131. M’Sila, 270. —, Forêt, 185. Msila, Plateau de, 372. Msûn, 94. Mtûga, 110. El-Muallaka, 483. Muchachos, Roque de los, 48. Mudania, Gulf of, 535. Muizz Canal, 439. Muluth, the, 327. Mulûya, 93. Murcia, Coast of, 112. Murro di Porco, Capo, 411. Murustuga, 207. Musta, 403. Mustapha-Supérieur, 127. Mustis, 357. Myconius Mons, 155. Mykale, 491. Mykonos, 417. Myrminghi, Cape, 530. Mysia, 533. Mytilini, 533. Mzab, the, 216, 170. Mzita, 270. Naâma, 202. Nâaneh, 470. Nabeul, 365. Nâblus or Nâbulus, 468. Nador, 308. — des Soumata, 213. Nagara Kalesí (fort), 534. Namorados, Bocca dos, 26. Nao, Cabo de la, 112. =Naples=, 135. Antignano, 12. Aquarium, 141. Archetiello, 1, 142. Bella Vista, 142. Cabs, 136. Cafés, 136. Camaldoli, 141. Castel Capuano, 140. Castello dell’Ovo, 138. Castel Nuovo, 138. — Sant’Elmo, 141. Churches: Cathedral, 140. San Gennaro, 140. — Giovanni a Carbonara, 140. Santa Chiara, 139. — Restituta, 140. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 141. Funiculars, 137. Galleria Umberto Primo, 138. Harbour Quarter, 138. Hotels, 135. Immacolatella Vecchia, 138. Largo della Vittoria, 141. Molo Angioino, 138. Municipio, 138. Museo Nazionale, 139. Omnibuses, 137. Palazzo Reale, 138. Piazza del Municipio, 138. — San Ferdinando, 138. Pizzofalcone, 138. Porta Capuana, 140. — San Martino, 141. Porto Mercantile, 138. — Militare, 138. Posilipo, 142. Post Office, 137. Railway Station, 135. Restaurants, 136. Rione Vómero, 141. San Martino, 141. Steamboat Agents, 137. Strada di Chiaia, 141. Teatro San Carlo, 138. Toledo, 139. Tramways, 137. Triumphal Arch, 138. Veduta Pagliana, 142. Via Roma, 139. — Tasso, 142. Villa Nazionale, 141. Zoological Station, 141. Naples, Bay of, 135. Naro, 363. Nassen, 358. Naupaktos, 501. Naustathmus, 414. Navarin, 272. Naxos (island), 417. — (Sicily), 158. Nazareth, 468. Nazereg, 201. Neapolis, 365. Nebeur, 326. Nédroma, 198. Neferis, 358. Nefta, 387. Nefza Mts., 328. Négrine, 284. Negro, Cape, 132. Negron, Cape (Cabo Negro), 103. Nemours, 198. Neochori, 559. Nero, Capo, 113. Nervi, 117. Nevada, Sierra, 49. New Heliopolis, 459. Nice, 112. Nicopolis, 433. Nieves, Pico de las, 46. Nif Dagh, 530. Níffe, 107. Nikaria, 492. Nikíta, 570. Nikomedeia, 535. Nile, the, 418. Niós, 417. Nisyros, 490. Noé, Cape, 125. Noir, Cape, 128. Noli, Capo di, 113. Notábile, 403. Notre-Dame d’Afrique, 236. Nouvion-Oued-Malah, 207. Novorossysk, 570. Numerus Syrorum, 197. Numiulis or Numluli, 355. Obba, 361. Obelisco, 427. Odessa, 564. —, Gulf of, 564, xxxiv. Odessos, 562. Oëa, 407. Œnoē, 575. Œnussæ Insulæ (Spalmatori Islets), 493. — Islands (off the Messenian peninsula), 493. Oglak, 530. Oglasa, 144. Oglet Nakhla, 388. Ogygia, 398. Oia, Cape, 417. Olgino, 568. Olisipo, 19. Oliviers, Col des, 212. Olonos Mts., 500. Olympia, 501. Olympos, the, 535. Oneglia, 113. Onellana, 359. Opčina, 427. Oporto, 3. Oppidum Matarense, 352. — Novum, 210. Oran, 175. —, Gulf of, 126. Ordu, 575. Oreánda, 570. Organos, the, 40. Oristano, Gulf of, 129. Orléansville, 208. Oro, Rio del, 124. Orotava, Puerto, 39. —, Villa, 40. — Valley, the, 38. Orso, Monte, 152. Ortakiöi, 558. Ortygia, 163. Ossero, Monte, 429. Osuna, 57. Othoní, 496. Otranto, Straits of, 430. Ouadhia, 258. Ouardenine, 369. Ouarsenis, the, 209, 169. Ouartane, 361. El-Oûdâghîr, 205. El-Oudiane, 388. Oudjda, 197. Oudna, 358. Oudref, 389. El-Oued, 285. Oued-Amizour, 252. — -Athménia, 272. — -Bellah, 244. — Bou Heurtma, 327. — -Chaffar, 383. — -Chouk, 314. — -Chouly, 186. — -Damous, 314. — -Djer, 213. — Fergoug, Barrage de l’, 200. — -Fodda, 209. — -Frarah, 308. — -Hamimin, 273. — -Hammimine, 303. — Hathob, 320. — el-Kébir, the, 131. — -el-Kheir, 207. — -Khelloug, 207. — -Kiss, 169. — -Laya, 370. — -Marsa, 266. — -Meliz, 326. — Mellègue, 314. — Miliane, 320. — -Mougras, 325. — Rhir, the, 285. — -Riou, 208. — -Rouïna, 209. — Saoura, Bassin de l’, 170. — -Sarrath, 362. — -Séguin, 272. — -Sly, 208. — -Taria, 200. — -Tindja, 352. — Zaïane, 251. — -Zarga, 328. — -Zenati, 306. Ouled-Agla, 270. — -Ali, Col des, 186. — -Naïl, Monts des, 170. — -Rahmoun, 272. - -Slîmân, 205. Oumache, Oase, 282. Ounga, 383. El-Ouricia, 269. Ourir, 284. El-Ourit, 196. Ourkis, Col d’, 272. Ourlana, 285. Ourmes, 285. El-Outaya, 278. Ovidiopol, 564. Oxia Island (Prinkipo Islands), 535. — Islands (near Patras), 500. Pace, 158. Pagos, the, 532. Pain de Sucre, 268. Palæokastrizza, 500. Palaeopolis, 138. =Palermo=, 147. Argos-Eden, 152. Botanic Garden, 151. Cala, La, 147. Cappella Palatina, 149. Cássaro, 149. Castellammare, Fort, 147. Churches: Cathedral, 149. — of Monreale, 152. Martorana, La, 150. San Cataldo, 150. — Domenico, 150. Santa Maria del l’Ammiraglio, 150. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 149. Falde, 151. Flora, 151. Foro Umberto Primo, 151. Giardino Garibaldi, 149. — Inglese, 151. Grotto of St. Rosalia, 152. Marina, 151. Monreale, 152. Municipio, 150. Museo Nazionale, 150. Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario, 150. Palazzo di Città, 150. — Reale, 149. Pellegrino, Monte, 151. Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, 151. — Marina, 149. Porta Felice, 151. — Nuova, 150. Quattro Canti, 149. Rocca, La, 152. San Giovanni degli Eremiti, 150. Santa Ninfa (observatory), 150. Teatro Massimo (Vittorio Emanuele), 151. Telégrafo, 152. University, 150. Via della Libertà, 151. Via Maqueda, 149. Villa Giulia, 151. Palermo, Bay of, 147. Palestro, 250. Palheiro do Ferreiro, 27. Palinuro, Cape, 155. Pallice, La, 2. Palma, 47. — del Rio, 68. Palmaiola, 134. Palmária, 134. Palmarola, 133. Palmas, Golfo di, 118. —, Las, 44. Palmi, 155. Palmones, 56. Palo, 92. Palomas, Grotta de las, 123. Palos, Cape, 112. Panaghia, Cape, 416. Panagia, 493. Panária, 155. Pandateria, 134. Pan de Azúcar, 41. Panormus, 148. Pantano Grande, 158. — Piccolo, 158. Pantelëusa, 492. Pantelleria, 154, xxx. —, Straits of, 153, xxx. Pantokrator, 500. Papas, Cape, 492. Paphlagonia, 575. Paradiso, 158. Parapanda, Sierra de, 73. Parenzo (Parentium), 429. Parga, 500. Parnes, Mt., 494. Parthenium (headland), 569. Parthenope, 138. Pasha Bagcheh, 559. — Liman Islands, 535. Paso, El, 48. Páspargon, 493. Passero, Cape, 411. Pasteur, 275. Patínos or Patmos, 492. Patras, 501. Paula, 402. Paul da Serra, 18. Paxos, 500. Pêcherie, La, 352. Pedro Gil Pass, 40. Pegli, 117. Pelagosa, 429. Peleshet, 466. Pelinnaeon, Mt., 529. Pélissier, 207. Péllaro, Punta di, 159. Pellegrino, Monte, 151. Peloritani, Monti, 155. Pena, Castello, da, 16. Peñaflor, 68. Penha Verde, 16. Pentapolis, 413. Pentelikon, Mt., 494. Pera, Cabo de, 127. Per-Bastē, 439. Perdoma, 40. Peregil, Isla del, 123. Pergamum, 533. Perhapi-n-On, 443. Périgotville, 269. Perinthos, 535. Peristasis, 535. Perrégaux, 206. —, Barrage, de, 200. Pertusato, Cape, 133. Pescade, Pointe, 237. Pescaria, the, 27. Petagne, Le, 429. Petali, Islands, 529. Petit, 308. —, -Cavallo, 131. Petite-Porte, 270. Pezzo, Punta, 155. Phabra, 529. Phaleron, New, 528. —, Old, 528. Phasis, the, 570. Philippeville, 304. Phleva, 529. Phoenicia, 469. Phoinikusa, 146. Phokia, (Phocæa), 530. Pholégandros, 492. Phorbantia, 153. Phrygia, 535. Phycus, 414. Pianosa, Island (Adriatic Sea), 428. — —, (near Elba), 143. Pi-beseth, 439. Picacho, de la Veleta, 77. Pico, Fort, 23. — Grande, the, 26. Picón, Montaña del, 38. Pico, Viejo, 42. Picville, 382. Piksit, Su, the, 572. Pilas, Las, 42. Pilau, 132. Pimentel, Torre de, 89. Pinito, Barranco del, 39. Pinos, Puente, 73. Piombino, 134. Piræus, 494. Pisan, Ile, 130. Pitón, the, 41. Piton, d’Akbou, 251. Pityusa, 535. Pizarra, 88. Plaia, the, 144. Planasia (Adriatic Sea), 428. — (near Elba), 143. Plane, Ile, 125. Planier, 119. Platana, 574. Plati, 535. Plemmyrion, 162. Po, Delta of the, 427. Poiras, Burnu, 560. Pola, Bay of, 429. Polaticum, Promontorium, 429. Polignano a Mare, 428. Polinos, 492. Pomaria, 187. Pomègue, 119. Pomo Island, 429. Ponente, Riviera di, 118. Ponta tal Zonkor, 411. Pont-de-l’Isser, 185. — de l’Oued el-Hammam, 212. — -de-Trajan, 327. — -du-Caïd, 210. — -du-Chélif, 207. — -du-Fahs, 359. Pontéba, 209. Pontiae, 133. Pontikonisi, 499. Pontine Marshes, 135. Pontus, 575. — Euxinus, 561. Ponty, Baie, 352. Ponza, 133. — Islands, 133. Poros, 494. Porquerolles, 133. Port-aux-Poules (Great Kabylia), 253. — — — (near Perrégaux), 199. Porte Civili, 260. Portella Pass, 27. Portes-de-Fer, Les, 270. Port Gueydon, 130. Portillo, the, 41. Porto, 4. — da, Cruz, 27. — -Farina, 354. Portoferraio, Bay of, 134. Portofino, Monte di, 34. Porto Longone, 185. — Maurizio, 113. — Novo, 21. — Santo, 17. 20. Port Paphos, 490. — Said, 436. — -Say, 125. Portus Divinus, 178. — Magnus, 199. — Menelai, 415. Posilipo, 135. Positano, 155. Potinville, 364. Pouso Saddle, 27. Pozzuoli, Bay of, 135. Praia Formosa, 25. Priene, 491. Princes Islands, 535. Prinkipo, 535. Prócida, 118. Promontore, Cape, 429. Promontorium Album, 469. — Ampelusia, 102. — Apollinis, 129. — Candidum, 129. — Cunerum, 428. — Junonis, 58. — Mercurii, 153. — Pachynum, 411. — Pelorum, 158. — Sacrum, 5. — Trikeron, 412. Propontis, the, 535. Proti, 535. Provence, 128. Prudon, 186. Prugo, Sierra de, 73. Psakon, Cape, 415. Psara, 529. Psiloriti, Mts., 416. Psyra, 529. Psyttaleia, 494. Ptolemais (Acre), 469. — (Barca), 414. Puente Genil, 72. Puercas, Las, 58. Puerto de la Cruz, 39. — de la Luz, 43. — de Santa Maria, 59. — Nuevo, Lago de, 124. — Orotava, 39. — Real, 59. Puig Mayor, 112. Puits, Le, 210. Pupput, 365. Pyramids of Gîzeh, 461. — of Sakkâra, 465. Pyrgos, 502. Pyxites, the, 572. Quarto, Golfo di, 144. Quilates, Cape, 123. Quiza, 207. Rabaçal, 26. Rabât, 105. Rábato, 403. Rachgoun, 185. — (island), 125. Rades, 363. Er-Rahel, 185. Raisi, Punta di, 152. Rambla de Castro, 42. Rambleta, the, 41. Ramleh, 436. Er-Ramleh, 470. Ramula, 470. Randon, 308. Rapallo, Bay of, 134. Râs el-Abyad, 469. — Acrata, 237. — Addar, 153. — Adjir, 406. — Adrian, 413. — Afia, 314. — el-Ahmar, 153. — el-Aioun, 387. — el-Alia, 313. — el-Amouch, 242. — Atia, 131. — Bibi, 131. — Boasa, 414. — ed-Dabba, 415. — ed-Dâmûr, 469. — Dimas, 405. — el-Djorf, 393. — al-Dukara, 132. — Engelah, 129. — al-Fortas, 153. — Frao, 131. — el-Hamâma, 414. — el-Hamra, 412. — el-Hilil, 414. — el-Hûdik, 108. — el-Ihûdi, 412. — Ishberdil, 102. — el-Kala, 396. — Kapoudia, 370. — Khadidja, 370. — el-Kôran, 129. — Marmor, 392. — Mehdia, 369. — el-Mirh, 405. — el-Mustapha, 405. — en-Nâkûra, 469. Raso, Cabo, 4. Râs el-Oued (near Gabes), 390. — — (Tocqueville), 271. — el-Radjel, 328. — er-Rumeileh, 469. — es-Sahal, 412. — Sem, 414. — Sluguia, 351. — Sotara, 412. — et-Tabia, 412. — Tachgagalt, 254. — Taguermess, 406. — Tarf, 129. — et-Tarf, 103. — Timedouine, 258. — et-Tîn, 415. Rastrojos, Los, 41. Râs Turgoeness, 406. — Wark, 124. Ratonneau, 119. Rayak, 483. Razzoli, Isola dei, 133. Realejo Alto, 42. — Bajo, 42. Redeyef, 372. Regba, the, 325. Reggio, 159. Réghaïa, 249. Relizane, 207. Renan-Kléber, 199. Rethymno, 416. Retour-de-la-Chasse, 248. Réunion, La, 252. Reyâk, 483. Rhar el-Maden, 125. Rhegium, 159. Rhithymna, 416. Rhizūs, 571. Rhodes, 490. Rhodios, the, 534. Rhone Delta, the, 119. Rhumel, Gorges du, 301. Ribeira Brava, 26. — da Lapa, 25. — dos Soccorridos, 25. Rîf Coast, 123. — Mts., 104. xxx. Rimini, 427. Rio, Ile, 132. — Marina, 135. Rion, the, 570. Rio Salado, 185. Riposto, 158. Risco, Waterfall of the, 26. — Verde, the, 42. Riviera, Russian, 569. Rivière Blanche, 278. Rivoalto, 420. Rizeh, 571. Robertville, 303. Roca, Cabo da, 4. Rocha Alta, the, 26. Roche, Cape, 58. Rochelle, La, 2. Rocher Blanc, 215. Rockgun, Mt., 53. Rôda (island), 461. Roda, Cova da, 27. —, La, 72. Rodosto, 535. Roja, Ravine, 113. Roknia, Necropolis of, 307. Roldán, Mesa de, 112. Ronda, 56. Rond-Point des Cèdres, 211. Rosa, Cape, 131. 128. Rosario, Fort, 124. Roseville, 183. Rouïba (near Aïn-Sefra), 203. — (near Algiers), 249. Roux, Cape, 131. Rovigno, 429. Rovigo, 248. Ruines, Col des, 327. — Romaines, 244. Ruisseau, Le, 231. Ruivo, Pico, 27. — do Paul, Pico, 26. Rumeli Fanar, 560. — Hissar, 558. — Kavak, 560. Rusaddir, 124. Ruscinona, 354. Rusguniæ, 248. Rusicade, 304. Ruspae, 370. Ruspina, 405. Rusubricari, 253. Rusuccuru, 255. Rûta, the, 485. Sabinal, Punta del, 112. Sabine Mts., 135. Sabratha, 407. Sacratif, Cape, 112. Saffi (or Safi), 109. Safsaf (near Philippeville), 303. — (near Tlemcen), 185. — Valley, the, 186. Sagres, 5. Sahara, the, 410. — Atlas, 170. Sahel de Collo, 131. — of Algiers, 221. — of Susa, 366. Saïda (Oran), 201. Saida (Palestine), 469. St. Aimé, 208. — André de Mers el-Kébir, 183. — Antoine, 306. — Arnaud, 271. — Canzian, 427. — Charles, 303. — Cloud, 199. — — -sur-Mer, 237. — Denis-du-Sig, 206. — Donat, 272. Sainte-Barbe du Tlélat, 186. — Baume, Chaîne de la, 133. — Clotilde, 183. — Juliette, 380. — Marie-du-Corso, 249. — Monique, 344. St. Eugène, 236. — George, Cape, 562. — Georges, 460. — George’s Bay, 482. — Jean d’Acre, 469. — Joseph, 308. — Julian, 397. — Leu, 199. — Lucien, 186. — Maur, 184. — Paul, 308. — Paul’s Bay, 403. — Raphaël, 234. — Thomas’s Bay, 411. — Vincent, Cape, 5. Sakamody, 248. Sakis Adasi, 492. Sakkâra, 464. Sala, 106. Salakta, 370. Salamandre, La, 207. Salambo, 344. Salamis, 494. Salão, 26. Saldæ, 263. Salee or Saleh, 106. Es-Sâlehîyeh, 489. Salerno, Gulf of, 155. Salina Bay, 397. Salines, Les, 360. Salvatore dei Greci, 158. Salvore, 429. Samakh, 469. Samaria, 468. Samos, 491. Samothrake, 533. Samsam, the, 213. Samsun, 575. — Dagh, 491. San Andrés, 36. — Antioco, 118. — Calógero, Monte, 154. — Cataldo, 430. — Fernando, 59. — Giorgio Maggiore, 424. — Giovanni in Pélago, 429. — Giuliano, Monte, 153. Sanguinaires, Iles, 133. San Isidro, 36. — José, Hacienda de, 92. — Juan de la Rambla, 42. — Julián, Castillo de, 125. — Lorenzo, Barranco de, 47. — Marco, Cape, 154. — Mateo, 46. — Michele, Ruins of, 145. — Pancrazio, Punta, 118. — Pietro, 129. — Remo, 113. — Roque, 56. — Salvatore, Monte, 500. — Sebastián (fort), 58. Sansego, 429. San Simonito, Sierra, 123. — Stefano (near Alexandria), 436. — —, Cape (near Constantinople), 535. Sansur, 406. Santa Anna, 27. — Brigida, 46. — Catalina, Punta, 5. — Croce, Capo, 159. — Cruz (Madeira), 21. — — (Oran), 126. — —, Fort, 182. — —, Montagne de, 177. — — de la Palma, 47. — — de Tenerife, 33. — Fe, 73. Sant’Alessio, 158. Santa Luzia, Levada de, 24. — Maria, Cabo de, 5. — — Islands, 133. — Maura, 500. Sant’ Andrea, 429. — Angelo, Monte, 155. — —, Punta, 118. Santa Panagia, Capo, 159. — Teresa di Gallura, 133. — Ursula, 38. Sant’ Elia, Cape, 144. San Teódoro, 499. Sant’ Eufemia, 155. Santi Deca, 499. — —, Monti, 499. — Quaranta, 496. Santo Antonio, 25. — — da Serra, 27. Santorin, 417. Santos, Barranco de, 35. Santo Stefano (Ponza Islands), 134. — — (near Sardinia), 133. San Vito, Cape, 153. Sâo Joâo da Foz, 3. — Lourenço, Ponta de, 20. — Martinho, 26. Sarafant, 469. Sarat, 414. Sardinia, 133. 144. Sarepta, 469. Sarona, 468. Saronic Gulf, 494. Sarrâyâ, 483. Sarýtsh, Cape, 569. Satafis, 269. Savona, 113. Sbakh, Plateau des, 274. Sbeïtla, 371. Sbiba, 371. Scalanova, Bay of, 491. Scala Tyriorum, 469. Scaletta, Capo di, 158. — Zanclea, 158. Scarpanto, 491. Scheria, 497. Schisò, 158. Sciacca, 154. Sciarra, 404. Scilla, 155. Scombraria, 125. Scutari, 556. Sebala, La, 353. Sebaou, Valley, 253. 254. Sebastopol, 568. Sebkha Bu-Erg, 124. — de Relizane, 208. — de Sahline, 405. — de Sidi Bou Chiane, 208. — Djendeli, 274. — d’Oran, 185. — Halk el-Menzel, 366. — el-Melah, 392. — en-Nouaïl, 383. — er-Riana, 345. — Sidi el-Hani, 370. Sebra, Baie de, 352. Sebta, 103. Sebu, the, 105. Seddouk, 251. Sejed, 470. Seldja, Gorges du, 386. Selinunte (Selinus), 154. Selloum, 260. Selmun, 403. Sened, 383. Senetosa, Cape, 133. Sénglea, 400. Sénia, La, 185. Septa Emporia, 103. Sériphos, 492. Serpentara, 144. Serpents, Isle of, 564. Serra d’Agua, 26. Serrado, Pico, 25. Serrat, Cape, 132. Sers, Le, 360. Sersou, Plateaux de, 208. Servola, 427. Sestiaria Promontorium, 124. Sestos, 534. Sétif, 271. =Seville=, 59. Alcázar, 61. Artillery Arsenal, 67. Audiencia, 65. Banks, 60. Biblioteca Colombina, 63. Bull, Ring, 60. Cabs, 60. Cafés, 59. Calle de las Sierpes, 65. Casa del Ayuntamiento, 65. — del Duque de Alba, 66. — de Pilatos, 65. — Lonja, 61. Churches: Cathedral, 63. Omnium, Sanctorum, 66. San Isidoro, 65. — Marcos, 66. — Pedro, 66. — Salvador, 65. Santa Magdalena, 66. — Marina, 66. University Church, 66. Church Festivals, 60. Consuls, 60. Convento de la Merced, 66. — de Santa Paula, 66. Custom House, 67. Feria, 60. Giralda, 62. Hospital de la Caridad, 67. Hotels, 59. Mercado, 66. Murillo, Bronze Statue of, 66. Museo, Arqueológico, 66. — de Pinturas, 66. — Provincial, 66. Palacio de Santelmo, 67. Parque María Luisa, 68. Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, 67. — de las Delicias, 67. Patio de los Naranjos, 62. Plaza de Atarazanas, 67. — de la Constitución, 65. — del Museo, 66. — del Pacífico, 66. — del Triunfo, 61. Post Office, 60. Public Gardens, 67. Railway Stations, 59. Sagrario, 65. Theatres, 60. Tobacco Factory, 68. Torre del Oro, 67. Tramways, 60. Triana, 67. University, 66. Seybouse, the, 308. 311. Sfa, Col de, 282. Sfax, 380. Sferra Cavallo, Capo, 144. Sgrigina, 131. Shabla, Cape, 562. Esh-Shâm, 482. Sharkiöi, 535. Sharon, 468. Shellah, 106. Shiâdma (Shedma), 110. Siagu, 364. Sibillini, Monti, 428. Sicca, Veneria, 360. Sichem, 468. Sicié, Cape, 132. Sicilian Straits, 396. Sicily, 146. Sidd el-Bahr Kalesi, 534. Sid-el-Kébir, 214. Sidero, Cape, 492. Sidi-Abdallah, Bay of, 352. — -Ahmed, 352. — -Aïch, 251. — -Aïssa, 251. — -Athman, 351. — -Ayed, 360. — -Bader, 325. — Bel-Abbès, 186. — -Bel-Hassen, Fort, 339. — -Bou-Ali, 366. — Bou-Médine, 194. — Bou-Rouis, 360. — Bou-Saïd, 351. — el-Djoudi, 269. — Ferruch, 237. — Hamza, 186. — el-Hani, 370. — el-Hemessi, 325. — Khalifa, 365. — -Khelil, 285. — -Mabrouk, 274. — -Madani, 215. — -Maklouf, 215. — M’Cid, Rocher, 302. — -Medjahed, 197. — -Meskine, 326. — -Mohammed-Benaouda, 208. — -Okba, 283. — -Rached, 285. — -Slîmân, Forêt de, 243. — -Yahia, Anse de, 264. — -Zehili, 327. Sidon, 469. Sidra, Gulf of, 412. Siga, Ruins of, 185. —, the, 185. Sigeion or Sigeum, 534. Sighajik, Bay of, 491. Sigli, Capo, 127. Sigri, Cape (Sigrium Promontorium), 533. Sigus, 272. Sikh ou Meddour, 256. Síkinos, 492. Sila, 155. Sillègue, 272. Siloah, 480. Silvium Promontorium, 429. Simeto, the, 159. Simitthu, 326. Singes, Pic des, 264. Sinis, 129. Sinob, 576. Sinonia, 133. Sinope, 576. Sinus Caystrius, 491. — Elaeates, 533. — Hermaeus, 530. — Laconicus, 494. Siphnos, 492. Sipylos, Mt., 530. Sisara Lacus, 352. Sisargas Islands, 3. Sis Dagh, 574. Sitía Mts., 491. Sitifis, 271. Skamander, the, 534. Skaramangá Mts., 494. Skikda, 304. Skira, 389. Skyros, 536. Slâ, 106. Slata, 362. Sliema, 400. Slîten, 412. Slouguia, 354. Smindja, 358. Smyrna, 530. Sol, Ponta do, 26. Soláro, Monte, 155. Soliman, 364. Soller, 112. Solum, Gulf of, 415. Sorrento, Peninsula of, 135. Souf, 285. Souk el-Abiod, 365. — -Ahras, 313. — el-Arba (Algeria), 258. — — (Tunisia), 326. — el-Djemâa, 257. — el-Haad (near Fort National), 258. — — (near Ménerville), 250. — el-Khemis, 327. — et-Tenine, 266. Soumane Valley, the, 128. Soummam, La, 252. Sour Kenis Bay, 389. Sousse, 366. Sozopolis (near Cyrene), 414. — (peninsula), 562. Spada, Cape, 415. Spadillo, 396. Spalmatori Islets, 493. Sparagio, Monte, 152. Spartel, Cape, 102. Spartivento, Cape, 118. Spelonca di Ballon, 429. Spezia, Gulf of, 134. Sphinx, the, 462. Sporades, Northern, 536. —, Southern, 490. Stagnone, Lo, 153. Stambul, 540, 542. — Boghaz, 557. Standia, 416. Staouéli, 237. — -Trappe, 234. Stavros, Cape, 416. Stella, Monte, 155. Stenia, 559. Step Pyramid (Sakkâra), 465. Stidia, La, 200. Stoechades Insulæ, 133. Stora, 306. —, Gulf of, 131. Strómboli, 155. Strongyle, 155. Strophades, 502. Sua, 328. Es-Suani, 101. Suda Bay, 416. Es-Sueïra, 109. Suez Canal, 437. Sufes, 371. Sufetula, 371. Sugar Loaf Hill, 53. Suk-Su Hill, 574. Sûk Wâdi Baradâ, 484. Sulci, 129. Sullectum, 370. Sunion, Cape, 529. Sûr, 469. Sûs, 94. Susa, 366. Susra Mesrâta, 415. Sweet Waters of Asia, 558. — — of Europe, 556. Sybota Islands, 500. Sycaminum, 468. Symbolon Portus, 569. Symi (Syme), 490. Symplegades, 560. Syracuse, 162. Syrian Desert, 485, xxxiii. Syrias Promontorium, 576. Syrina Group, 492. Syrtis Major, 412. — Minor, 405. Tabarca, 327. Tabarîya, 469. Tabeditt, 372. Tabia, 186. Tabor, Mt., 469. Tacape, 389. Tacoronte, 37. Tadergount, 268. Tadjera, Mont, 125. Tænaron, Cape, 493. Taenia, the, 344. Tafetneh, Cape, 110. Tafira, 46. Tafna, the, 185. Taghia, 208. Taghla, Col de, 204. Tagma, Col de, 261. Tagoje, Montaña de, 48. Taguemoun, 258. Tagus, the, 5. Tajûra, 411. Takdempt, 208. Takembrit, 185. Takhtaly, 530. Takitount, 269. Takorrabt Bou Achbatzene, 261. Takriets or Takritz, 251. Takrouna, 365. Taksept, 256. Talalati, 392. Tala Rana, 259. Talmetz, Col de, 261. Tamaraceite, 47. Tamarins, Les, 276. Tamazaran, 207. Tamâzirt, 257. Tamelhat, Zaouïa of, 285. Tamerna, 285. Tamezred, 388. Tamgout Haïzer, 254. Tamyras, the, 469. Tangier, 98. Tanja, 99. Tanquinhos, Pico dos, 26. Tanta, 438. Tantûra, 468. Taormina, 158. Taount, Plateau de, 198. Taourirt-Amokran, 257. — el-Hadjadj, 257. — -Ighil, Chalet de, 261. — -Mimoun, 257. Taparura, 381. Tarábosan, 572. Tarf, 273. — ech-Chena, 359. Tarifa, 6. Tarja, 325. Tarkhankut, Cape, 568. Tarla, Col de, 204. Tarshish, 50. Taskenfout, 258. Tassaft ou Guemoun, 257. Tatahouine, 391. Tauchira, 413. Tauric Peninsula, 568. Tauromenium, 158. Taurus, Lycian, 490. Tauze, Boca de, 42. Tavolara, 144. Tavshan Adalar, 533. Taya, 307. Taygetos, Mt., 493. Tazagraret, 125. Tazerout, 259. Tazmalt, 251. Tebessa, 315. — Khalia, 318. Teboulba, 369. Teboulbou, 391. Tebourba, 329. Teboursouk, 355. Tedlès, Cape, 256. Tegueste, 37. Teide, Pico de, 41. Tejea, Sierra, 89. Tejeda, 46. Tejina, 37. Tekbalet, 185. Tekirdagh, 535. Telde, 47. Télergma, Plaine de, 272. Tell Atlas, 169, xxx. — Basta, 439. Telli Tabia, 560. Tell Jezer, 470. Telmine, 388. Telos, 490. Temacin, 285. Temoulga-Vauban, 209. Tenedos, 533. Tenera, 48. Teneriffe, 32. —, Peak of, 41. Ténès, 209. —, Cape, 209. Teniet el-Haâd, 210. — et-Tine, 269. Teno, Punta de, 47. — Mts., 32. Tenoya, Barranco de, 47. Tensift, 109. Tenzirt, 242. Teos, 491. Tergeste, 426. Teror, 47. Terracina, 135. Terranova, Bay of, 144. Terres Sialines, 380. Tessan, Monte de, 124. Testa, Capo, 133. Testour, 354. Tetuan, 103. Teuchira, 413. Teulada, Cape, 118. Thabraca, 327. Thacia, 357. Thænæ, 383. Thagaste, 313. Thala, 362. Thamalla, 271. Thamuda, 103. Thamugadi, 289. Thapsos, 159. Thapsus, 369. Tharros, 129. Tharsis, 50. Thelepte, 371. Theodosia, 570. Thera, 417. Therapia, 559. Therasia, 492. Thermæ Selinuntiae, 154. Thermiá, 492. Theveste, 315. Thibilis, 307. Thiers, 250. Thiersville, 200. Thira, 417. Thonaire, Anse de, 153. Thuburbo Majus, 359. — Minus, 329. Thuburnica, 325. Thubursicum Bure, 355. — Numidarum, 313. Thubusuctu, 252. Thuccabor, 328. Thugga, 355. Thunes, 332. Thynias (island), 576. — Promontorium, 562. Thysdrus, 379. Tiaret, 208. Tiberias, 469. Tichi, Pointe, 266. Tichilla, 354. Tifferdout, 259. Tigaiga, Ladera de, 38. Tigani, 491. Tighanimine, Ravine of, 278. Tiguedidin, 285. Tigzirt, 255. Tiklat, 252. Tilatou, 277. —, Gorges de, 277. Tilghemt, 216. Tilos, 490. Tilrempt, 216. Timē-en-Hor, 437. Timgad, 289. Timri n’Tguerfa, Pointe, 130. Timsâh, Lake, 438. Tingartia, 208. Tingis, Ruins of, 101. Tino, 134. Tiñoso, Cabo, 112. Tinsilt, 274. Tiout (oasis), 202. Tipasa (Mauretania), 239. — (Numidia), 313. Tipaza, 239. Tirabson, 572. Tireboli, 574. Tirinadis, 215. Tirkount, 202. Tiroual, 258. Tirourda, 259. —, Col de, 260. — Valley, 259. Tit, 108. Titan, Ile du, 112. Titawân, 103. Titteri, 215. Tixiriden, 260. Tixter-Tocqueville, 271. Tizi (or Thizi), 200. — el-Arba, 254. — n-Assoual, 258. — Boulma, 258. — Guessig, 258. — n-Kouïlal, 259. — Koulmin, Lac de, 258. — N’Béchar, 269. — Oufellah, Forêt de, 261. — -Ouzou, 254. — Tirkabin, 259. Tlalet, 392. Tlemcen, 187. —, Massif de, 187, 169. Tléta, 253. Tobruk, 415. Tocina, 68. Tocón, 72. Tocqueville, 271. Tokra, 413. Tolfa Mts., 135. Tolmeita, 413. Tolometta, 414. Tômât Nîhâ, 469. Tombeau de la Chrétienne, 238. — de la Neige, 252. Tomi, 563. Top Dagh, 558. Toriñana, Cabo, 3. Toro, Il, 118. Torre del Faro, 158. Torsa, Cape, 125. Tortolì Marina, 144. Toual el-Chridi, 382. Touchaïd, 208. Toudja, 262. Toudjane, 391. Touggourt, 285. Toukabeur, 328. Toukouch, Cape, 131. Toulon, Bay of, 133. Tozeur, 387. Trafalgar, Cape, 58. Tragara, Punta, 155. Tragia, 490. Tralimet, 197. Trápani, 153. Trapezus, 572. Trappe, La, 237. Traras Mts., 169, 198. Trebizond, 572. Trembles, Les (near Algiers), 248. —, Les (near Oran), 186. Trémiti Islands, 428. Tres Forcas, Cape, 124. Trieste, 425. Triopium Promontorium, 490. Tripoli in Barbary, 406. Tripolis (Tireboli), 574. Tripolitania, 407. Troas (Troad), 533. Trogilos, 159. Trois-Palmiers, Les, 209. Troodos, the, 489. Trou du Diable, 208. Troy, 534. Tsarigrad, 540. Tsor Kersa Islands, 414. Tuat Oases, 216. Tuileries, Les, 313. =Tunis=, 329. Administration des Habous, 334. El-Ariana, 338. Avenue de France, 333. — de la Marine, 333. — Jules-Ferry, 333. Bab Alleoua, 339. — Djedid, 337. — el-Khadra, 339. — Sidi Abdallah, 339. — — Kassem, 339. Banks, 331. Bardo, 339. Baths, 331. Bibliothèque Française, 333. Bordj Flifel, 338. — Rabta, 338. Boulevard Bab-Benat, 337. Cafés, 330. Carriages, 330. Casino Municipal, 333. Cemeteries, 337, 338, 339. Château d’Eau, 339. Churches: Cathedral, 333. Ste. Croix, 334. Collège Alaoui, 339. — Sadiki, 337. Consulates, 331, 334. Dâr el-Bey, 336. — -Hussein, 336. Direction des Antiquités, 334. Division d’Occupation, 336. Djamâa, see Mosques. Ecole Coloniale d’Agriculture, 338. — Professionnelle Loubet, 338. Feskia, 339. Fort Sidi Bel-Hassen, 339. Hara, 337. Harbour, 333. Hospitals, 335, 338. Hotels, 329. Institut Pasteur, 338. Jardin d’Essais, 338. — du Belvédère, 338. Jewish Quarter, 337. Jules Ferry, Statue of, 333. Kasba, 336. Kassar-Saïd, 342. Manouba, La, 342. Manoubia Hill, 339. Marché, 333. Market Quarter, 337. Mélassine, 339. Mida, the, 338. Mosques: Djamâa Djedid, 336. — Sahab et-Taba, 337. — ez-Zitouna, 334. Kasba, 336. el-Ksar, 336. Sidi Ben-Arous, 336. — Mahrez, 337. — Mohammed-Bey, 337. — Youssef, 335. des Teinturiers, 336. Motor Cars, 330. Murad Bey’s Burial Chapel, 335. Musée Alaoui, 340. — Arabe, 342. — du Bardo, 340. Palace of the Beys, 340. — of the Harem (Bardo), 340. Palais de Justice, 337. — de la Résidence, 333. Pavillon de la Manouba, 338. Physicians, 331. Piccola Sicilia, 333. Place Bab-Souika, 337 — de la Bourse, 344. — de la Kasba, 336. — de la Résidence, 333. — el-Halfaouine, 337. Post Office, 330. Railway Station, 329, 333. Rebat Bab-Djazira, 337. — — -Souika, 337. Restaurants, 330. Rue de la Kasba, 334. — de l’Eglise, 334. — des Andalous, 336. — — Potiers, 337. — du Riche, 336. Souks, 335, 334, 337. Steamboat Agents, 331. Synagogues, 337. Tekia, 337. Telegraph Office, 330. Theatres, 331. Tourbet el-Bey, 336. Tramways, 330. University, 334. Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen, 339. — — Mahrez, 337. Tunis, Gulf of, 129, xxx. —, Lac de, 129. Tunisia, 319. Turbie, La, 112. Turenne, 197. Tunis Tamaleni, 388. Tuscan Archipelago, 143. Tusla, Cape, 563. Tusuros, 387. Tûzer, 387. Tyras, 564. Tyre, 469. Tyropœon, 472. Tyrrhenian Sea, 134, xxxi. Ucubis, 357. Ujda, 197. Ulisipo, 9. Ulisse, Scoglio di, 499. Umago, 429. Um er-Rebîa, 108. Unia, 575. Unie, 429. Üniyeh, 575. Ushant, 2. Ustica, 146. Uthina, 358. Utica, 353. —, Bay of, 129. Utrera, 57. Uzalis, 370. Uzès-le-Duc, 208. Vacca, La, 129. Vado, Cape, 113. Vaga, 328. Valée, 303. Valencia, Bay of, 112. Valinco, Gulf of, 133. Valletta, 399. Valmy, 185. Vandama, Pico de, 46. Vanikiöi, 558. Varássova, 500. Varna, 562. Vasampus, 314. Vathy, 491. Vaticano, Cape, 155. Vedrá, 112. Vega, the, 73. Vélez de la Gomera, Peñón de, 123. Venere, Monte, 158. Venice, 419. Ventimiglia, 113. Ventotene, 134. Vepillium, 388. Verde, Capo, 113. Verecunda, 289. Vesoul-Benian, 212. Vesuvius, Mt., 135. Vettore, Monte, 428. Victor-Hugo, 185. Victoria (Malta), 404. Victoria (Teneriffe), 38. Vicus Augusti, 370. Viento, Pico del, 46. Vierge, Ravin de la, 185. Vieste, 428. Vieux-Kouba, 231. — -Ténès, 209. Vigo, 3. Vilaflor, 42. Villa Baleira, 20. Villafranca, 112. Villano, Cabo, 3. Villa Orotava, 40. Villas, 237. Villa San Giovanni, 159. Villefranche, 112. Vinte e Cinco Fontes, 26. Vita, Capo della, 135. Vitello, Il, 129. Vittoriosa, 400. Voïdiá, 500. Voile Noire, 131. Volscian Mts., 135. Vona, Cape, 575. Vulcano, 155. Vurlá, Bay of, 530. Wâd el-Ihûd, 101. Wâdi Miserâra, 470. — es-Sarâr, 470. — el-Werd, 470. — Yahfûfeh, 483. Walediya Lake, 108. Warân, 177. Warnier, 209. Washington, Monte, 102. Xeres, 59. Xiphonia, 159. Yaila Mts., 568. Yakouren, 261. Yalta, 569. Yamanlar Dagh, 533. Yarmuk Valley, 469. Yasun Burnu, 575. Yeguas, Sierra de, 72. Yenikale, Straits of, 570. Yenikiöi, 559. Yeni Mahalleh, 559. Yenishehr, 534. Yeshil Irmak, 575. Yoros, Cape, 574. — Kalesi, 560. Youks-les-Bains, 318, 314. Yum Burnu, 560. Yusha Dagh, 559. Zaatra, 253. Zab, Monts du, 280, 170. Zafarines, Iles, 124. Zafran, 360. Zaghouan, 359. Zahleh, 483. Zahrès Chergui, 169. — Gharbi, 169. Zakâzîk, 439. Zakynthos, 502. Zammarín, 468. Zana, 275. Zancle, 157. Zannone, 133. Zante, 502. Zaouïet el-Arab, 388. — Sahraoui, 387. — Sousse, 378. Zaregrad, Mouth of the, 564. Zarpath, 469. Zarytus, 353. Zarzis, 392. Zarzouna, 353. Ez-Zebedâni, 484. Zefireh Burnu, 574. Zeitün Burnu, 562. Zelboun, 197. Zella (Africa), 369. Zelythen, 412. Zembra, 153. Zembretta, 153. Zenâga, 206. —, Col de, 204. Zephyros, Cape, 574. Zéralda, 238. Zerghaya, 483. Zevgari, Cape, 490. Ziama, 267. Zian, 392. Zibans, Route des, 283. Zilis, 104. Zita, 392. Zizerin, Cape, 243. Zostēr, Cape, 529. Zouarines, Les, 361. Zoudj-el-Beghal, 198. Zousfana, the, 203. Zucchabar, 211. Zurich, 244. Zygós, Mt., 500. PRINTED IN GERMANY BY GRIMME & TRÖMEL, LEIPZIG. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Used numbers for footnotes. ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. ● Enclosed bold font in =equals=. *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 73849 ***